Hello, I've used http://retractioncalibration.com/ on it's default settings and I'm getting stringing on all of them. I'm running a Anycubic Vyper and using Flashforge Burnt Titanium filament in a dryer kept at 45C for humidity management. I've calibrated my e steps, K value, the bed is level, and I'm printing at 190 which was determined by using a temp tower. From my experience, adding z-hop only makes it worse. Any advice on how I can get rid of this stringing? I'm using Zombie Vyper 2.8 firmware for linear acceleration.
#Stringing no matter what retraction settings?
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It sounds like you have already taken many steps to troubleshoot your stringing issue. Here are a few additional suggestions you can try:
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Check retraction distance and speed: Make sure that your retraction settings are appropriate for your printer and filament combination. Experiment with different retraction distances and speeds to find the optimal values that minimize stringing.
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Adjust printing temperature: While you mentioned that you determined 190°C as the best temperature using a temperature tower, it's worth experimenting with slightly higher or lower temperatures to see if it helps reduce stringing. Some filaments may require a higher or lower temperature than the suggested range.
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Filament drying: Although you mentioned that you are storing your filament in a dryer at 45°C for humidity management, it's worth confirming that the filament itself is not absorbing any moisture. Try drying the filament in an oven or using a dedicated filament dryer to eliminate any mo...
WARNING: This response is AI generated and may contain errors.
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Reopening as I haven't gotten a reply
I dont know what this model is supposed to look like but that just looks like severe under extrusion to me
This video explains it, you can see how to read it at 5:35 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mZnkIsibog
It goes from 0.5mm up to 8mm, and each notch on the side indicates speed increases
Thanks to Carl Johnson for this cool retraction calibration tool.
link:
http://retractioncalibration.com/
Teaching Tech Github:
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
The Slicer I use:
Prusa Slicer
My Printers:
Elegoo Mars
Prusa Mk3S MMU2s
AnyCubic Chiron
Tronxy XY2 Pro
Kingroon KP3S
Voxelab Aquila
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I've calculated my flow rate as well, and while this doesn't account for that, my stringing tests in Cura still have the same issue even though flow rate is correct
How old is your nozzle
A week or so, I just replaced the hotend
Inc. nozzle
Of course that doesn't mean it's in perfect shape, I was struggling with leveling before I realized that it wasn't using the stored mesh, it's possible it touched down at some point when I was working on that
I have checked for clogs and all by doing a cold pull and using the 0.4mm needle
This model just doesn't tell me much, looks like there more going on then stringing, id suggest printing a normal retraction tower. Those are alot more readable imo
From the looks of this it just seems like you need to crank your retraction speed and length way up. The vyper has bowden right?
I can do that, though whenever I do, it tends to look alright, it's only with thin tips like say spikes or small bits where the issues come up. Let me finish this print and I can try a normal retraction tower
Yeah it's bowden
What are your retraction settings
Currently it's 6.5mm at 70mm/s, the high speed was just due to testing
I've tried multiple speeds to no avail, not really sure what the cap on it should be to not cause issues with the extruder/clogging
No Z-hop, no extra prime amount
Is your bowden tube sitting in the hottend correctly
Not cut off at an angle whatsoever
Nope, it's connected via capricorn tubing to it's mount
Oh I misread, no, no angle
Try this? Specific solutions for your printer
I can try it, lemme swap out this filament and get one going
Starting a retract tower at 6mm with speeds from 20 to 100mm/s, I'll post a pic once it's done
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In this video, we'll walk you through all the settings you need to know when it comes to the travel settings panel in Ultimaker Cura. Whether you're new to 3D printing or a seasoned pro, understanding these settings can help you achieve better print quality, reduce print time, and avoid common issues like stringing and oozing.
We'll cover every...
this guy explains alot how you could fix it but man nothing works for me at this point
@left stream if you have found any slution to this could you tell me please i have the same problem.
i too have the Anycubic vypery.
My hotend was faulty (temps were way too high) and the nozzle was damaged. I got a hotend directly from Anycubic and now I don't have issues like I used to. I believe it was a combo of printing too hot and the nozzle damage that caused constant stringing
Temp tower comparison between old and new
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i see what kind of nozzle did you get?
and what temps are you working with?
atm i am trying to see if i can do a good print with 185
I'm using the one that came with the hotend, but I also ordered a pack of 20 off of Amazon for the future. Temp depends on filament. I do a temp tower, retract distance tower, and retract speed tower with each filiament and use that to determine settings
i see
I bought these, but I can't vouch for quality because I haven't used them yet https://www.amazon.com/Volcano-Printed-Filament-Printer-Extrude/dp/B08B5Y3RNN/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
i mean i know that it comes with auto leveling should i look in to that at all? or just do the auto?
Ok so that's actually a thing I found out after a LOOOONG time troubleshooting. I'm using Octoprint for printing and cura for slicing. I found out that if you level your bed and save it with M500, that doesn't mean it'll use it. I had to add M420 S1 to my cura settings before every print for it actually use the bed level mesh, that fixed any first layer issues I was having
M420 S1 selects the first bed level mesh for use in the print, without it, it was ignoring the auto level settings
That's actually how I damaged my nozzle, by it running into the bed because I was fighting with Z-offset when I didn't need to
is it a plugin?
Nope, if you're using Cura, you go into your printer profile, and in the bottom left you'll see the commands that are sent before a print begins, I just added it there
Preferences > Printers > Machine settings
Yeah, I just added mine in before it starts moving
I typed it in
You can just click it and add code
If you want, you can add M355 S1 to the start and M355 S0 to the end and it'll turn the light on when it starts and off when it's done
That'll do it, yep
should i ctrl s or no?
Na, when you exit that window it saves it
Ahh, that could cause it. I got a filament dryer to keep mine good since I live in a humid environment
I do see you have Z-hop on, that can cause stringing as well, so maybe experiment with it off as well
and it looks like PLA works between 180-215
ye
the video i send explains it really will
Oh, one thing, becuase I don't really know how the vyper handles it normally
dam nvm
I don't think it saves the bed mesh to the EEProm normally, at least from what I've seen from watching the console
So techincally it kinda expects you to level every time it's booted up
But you can save it
One sec lemme make sure I get the right codes for you
Not sure, Z-hop on can cause that from what I've seen
less turn it off and see i mean it is way cleaner the before.
Ok so, to save the bed mesh, you can insert G29 to run an auto-level, then under that line you can run M500 to save it
If you're about to start a new print, you might wanna do that now, so it's saved for the future
Just this once add this to the start Gcode:
G29
M500
Then after this print you can remove it
Add it before the M420 line
so something like this?
i see
I'd move them to the top for now, I think you also want M420 before a couple of those. I'm not sure but better to be safe I suppose
I don't know the exact point it needs to load the mesh by
So I do it earlier
so like this
There's also a plug-in called AutoTowers Generator. That has a long list of calibration towers that will automatically handle things like different retraction distances/speeds and temps and all
i have tryed thos but what i dont understand does it use my print settings to do it?
With AutoTower Generator it will use your normal print settings except the one it's testing. So if you're testing retraction distance, it'll keep your configured retraction speed, printing temp, printing speed, etc. Only the retraction distance will change during the print
ah i see
I normally do temp first, set that in the material profile and print profile, then retraction distance and set that, then retraction speed
Which if you weren't aware of, material profiles are really nice if you don't use the same filament all the time
It all really depends on the filament, you should calibrate each filament you get and save the settings in cura
i am only planing to use PLA for now
If you press crtl+K, you'll open up the materials profiles, you can create custom ones there with the info you've found during calibration
wtf is this
Yeah, but different brands, colors, and styles such as silk/matte/ etc will need different settings
ye
I normally go to generic PLA and slick the hamburger menu in the top right and duplicate, then edit that
what should i put this at?
You've got to calibrate it first to find out
when i am doing the temp tower what am i trying to figur out?
also does it do it auto or should i change the temp each time?
When you select the filament in the Prepare tab, it'll automatically change the settings to match it's settings. It'll prompt you to keep or discard changes when you switch
As for the temp tower and calibration, I actually have a good site for this, one sec
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#intro
This page goes through all the ways to calibrate your printer and all. With videos and everything to guide you. You don't have to do everything, but it's a really good resource if you need to troubleshoot something
i see
For the temp tower, I look for a smooth print, where there isn't any loose strings on the bridge or anything that looks wrong (like stringing, melting, etc). Usually you'll see a range that looks alright, at that point you just pick the one that looks the best for you
For retraction, I look for the lowest amount that doesn't string. I've found that the Vyper doesn't usually need the 6-8mm retraction that other bowden extruders do, I'm usually closer to 3-5mm
And for speed it's the same thing, I set it to whatever I found looked good in the distance test, then look for the highest speed that still looks good on the speed test
this what i got today
from 220 to 190
this was before changing filament but it is from the same brand.
The bottom on the right picture looks like it's too high, it's all melty and that's why it's stringing like crazy. I'd turn off Z-hop and try again. I'd also recommend going though the calibration steps on that site. Once I went though everything I could, I have much better prints. I'd wager with that result, once you get stringing under control is probably going to print somewhere around 190-200, but stringing is making it hard to read
Have your filaments been left out for a good while? They can absorb moisture and that can cause a lot of printing problems because it makes it brittle
I personally bought a filament dryer for live use, but you can also use a few other things like a dehydrator or an oven (if it can go low enough, mine can't) to dry them out
I can't say that's whats causing the issues or anything, but dry filament is happy filament
ye and i just got black one out of the bag like one week a go
Ok cool
i am really new to 3D printing
I am too, hasn't even been a month, but I just fell down the rabbit hole like crazy lol
It absorbed all my free time and my non-free time and now I know a good bit lol
i learned a lot about supports and how dot make a good one if your trying to print minis
I also flashed my vyper with custom firmware to enable linear accelleration
but strining i have no idea i tryed everything i can think off
It might be the nozzle/hotend. They are the most important part of the printer, luckily they're pretty cheap but I didn't have great luck with an Amazon hotend
When I replaced mine, I did calibrations and it just... worked
hmmm
i did get one free when i got my printer
i mean i had one in it and one on the side
An extra nozzle you mean?
yeah
It might be worth switching out then
Just to see if it's the problem
One sec lemme get you a video, I actually broke my first hotend because I didn't know what I was doing when I tried to remove the nozzle
yeah i need to figure out how to remove it then
This video shows you how to change nozzles for Vyper. If you have any questions, please click on this link to get the after-sales service. 😎
https://support.anycubic.com/
#vyper #anycubic #3dprinter #3dprinting
Don't be like me and not hold the hotend with a pair of plyers and just start turning
well i think it is the hot end
It says to use a socket wrench, but you can use the tiny wrench it came with
i am getting the strining after the G code and stuff
I'd replace the nozzle first to see if that helps
Yeah, I remove it and heat it up to 230 so that if there's any stuck, it's melted and I can still unscrew it
Just be careful because if you're using that tiny wrench, it can get hot after a bit of being in contact with the nozzle
These aren't good btw
I kinda assumed lol, they were cheap
When my current one wears down, I might try some and if they suck, I might get a ruby/diamond tipped one, depending on price
It'll only result in a marginal difference but once you start seeing any stringing replace the nozzle
This won't benefit you if you're printing pla
No?
Longevity maybe but not worth it in my opinion
Any suggestions for replacements once this one's worn down?
In this video we'll investigate how 3D printers nozzles wear and how print-quality is affected by that.
I've used brass nozzles with Glow in the Dark and Carbon Fiber filament to find out how and where they wear and what effect that has on print quality. I've also milled open a couple of nozzles to see how they look from the inside.
Reddit thr...
This demonstrates what nozzle wear does to your print, while also showing how bad cheap nozzles are
why is it so hard to pull it off
??
it is hafe way
Is it at an angle?
If it's at an angle, you'll have to try to correct that, it should come out smoothly straight down
Only real resistance should be in the beginning
I wouldn't assume that, I would just think it's stuck at a slight angle
I haven't encountered that
Uhhh, honestly I'm not sure
At this point you probably don't need the heat
So for safety and all yeah. it might just need to be jostled back into the thread
It is time to do it the hard way
well i need new hotend it can not be removed
Oh dang, that sucks. I do recommend ordering directly from Anycubic for that after my experience with an Amazon one. Shipping takes longer but you get a working piece
Oof, cross threaded?
yep
if i keep going it will get recked no matter what
Damn, sorry to hear that. 😔
so i removed it
You could, potentially, run a thread chaser through
well it is fine tomorrow the new one should come to me
But at that point yeah just replace
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These posts are intended for when you need help not documenting progress
Im no mod but this clutters the channel and means people in need of help might be looked over
i see