#Stringing no matter what retraction settings?

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left stream
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Hello, I've used http://retractioncalibration.com/ on it's default settings and I'm getting stringing on all of them. I'm running a Anycubic Vyper and using Flashforge Burnt Titanium filament in a dryer kept at 45C for humidity management. I've calibrated my e steps, K value, the bed is level, and I'm printing at 190 which was determined by using a temp tower. From my experience, adding z-hop only makes it worse. Any advice on how I can get rid of this stringing? I'm using Zombie Vyper 2.8 firmware for linear acceleration.

ebon hullBOT
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AI Help

It sounds like you have already taken many steps to troubleshoot your stringing issue. Here are a few additional suggestions you can try:

  1. Check retraction distance and speed: Make sure that your retraction settings are appropriate for your printer and filament combination. Experiment with different retraction distances and speeds to find the optimal values that minimize stringing.

  2. Adjust printing temperature: While you mentioned that you determined 190°C as the best temperature using a temperature tower, it's worth experimenting with slightly higher or lower temperatures to see if it helps reduce stringing. Some filaments may require a higher or lower temperature than the suggested range.

  3. Filament drying: Although you mentioned that you are storing your filament in a dryer at 45°C for humidity management, it's worth confirming that the filament itself is not absorbing any moisture. Try drying the filament in an oven or using a dedicated filament dryer to eliminate any mo...

ebon hullBOT
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left stream
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Reopening as I haven't gotten a reply

sage wyvern
left stream
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This video explains it, you can see how to read it at 5:35 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mZnkIsibog

It goes from 0.5mm up to 8mm, and each notch on the side indicates speed increases

Thanks to Carl Johnson for this cool retraction calibration tool.
link:
http://retractioncalibration.com/
Teaching Tech Github:
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

The Slicer I use:
Prusa Slicer
My Printers:
Elegoo Mars
Prusa Mk3S MMU2s
AnyCubic Chiron
Tronxy XY2 Pro
Kingroon KP3S
Voxelab Aquila
Royalty free music by:
https://www...

▶ Play video
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I've calculated my flow rate as well, and while this doesn't account for that, my stringing tests in Cura still have the same issue even though flow rate is correct

sage wyvern
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How old is your nozzle

left stream
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A week or so, I just replaced the hotend

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Inc. nozzle

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Of course that doesn't mean it's in perfect shape, I was struggling with leveling before I realized that it wasn't using the stored mesh, it's possible it touched down at some point when I was working on that

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I have checked for clogs and all by doing a cold pull and using the 0.4mm needle

sage wyvern
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From the looks of this it just seems like you need to crank your retraction speed and length way up. The vyper has bowden right?

left stream
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I can do that, though whenever I do, it tends to look alright, it's only with thin tips like say spikes or small bits where the issues come up. Let me finish this print and I can try a normal retraction tower

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Yeah it's bowden

sage wyvern
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What are your retraction settings

left stream
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Currently it's 6.5mm at 70mm/s, the high speed was just due to testing

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I've tried multiple speeds to no avail, not really sure what the cap on it should be to not cause issues with the extruder/clogging

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No Z-hop, no extra prime amount

sage wyvern
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Is your bowden tube sitting in the hottend correctly

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Not cut off at an angle whatsoever

left stream
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Nope, it's connected via capricorn tubing to it's mount

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Oh I misread, no, no angle

sage wyvern
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Try this? Specific solutions for your printer

left stream
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I can try it, lemme swap out this filament and get one going

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Starting a retract tower at 6mm with speeds from 20 to 100mm/s, I'll post a pic once it's done

left stream
ebon hullBOT
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spiral pasture
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leonilian have you figured it out?

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i have the same problem

spiral pasture
# left stream This video explains it, you can see how to read it at 5:35 https://www.youtube.c...

In this video, we'll walk you through all the settings you need to know when it comes to the travel settings panel in Ultimaker Cura. Whether you're new to 3D printing or a seasoned pro, understanding these settings can help you achieve better print quality, reduce print time, and avoid common issues like stringing and oozing.

We'll cover every...

▶ Play video
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this guy explains alot how you could fix it but man nothing works for me at this point

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@left stream if you have found any slution to this could you tell me please i have the same problem.

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i too have the Anycubic vypery.

left stream
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Temp tower comparison between old and new

ebon hullBOT
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spiral pasture
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and what temps are you working with?

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atm i am trying to see if i can do a good print with 185

left stream
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I'm using the one that came with the hotend, but I also ordered a pack of 20 off of Amazon for the future. Temp depends on filament. I do a temp tower, retract distance tower, and retract speed tower with each filiament and use that to determine settings

spiral pasture
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i see

left stream
spiral pasture
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i mean i know that it comes with auto leveling should i look in to that at all? or just do the auto?

left stream
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Ok so that's actually a thing I found out after a LOOOONG time troubleshooting. I'm using Octoprint for printing and cura for slicing. I found out that if you level your bed and save it with M500, that doesn't mean it'll use it. I had to add M420 S1 to my cura settings before every print for it actually use the bed level mesh, that fixed any first layer issues I was having

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M420 S1 selects the first bed level mesh for use in the print, without it, it was ignoring the auto level settings

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That's actually how I damaged my nozzle, by it running into the bed because I was fighting with Z-offset when I didn't need to

spiral pasture
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is it a plugin?

left stream
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Nope, if you're using Cura, you go into your printer profile, and in the bottom left you'll see the commands that are sent before a print begins, I just added it there

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Preferences > Printers > Machine settings

spiral pasture
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i dont have 420

left stream
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Yeah, I just added mine in before it starts moving

spiral pasture
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this is wired

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how did you add your M420 i dont see it in start G-code

left stream
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I typed it in

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You can just click it and add code

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If you want, you can add M355 S1 to the start and M355 S0 to the end and it'll turn the light on when it starts and off when it's done

spiral pasture
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it does that auto for me

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like this?

left stream
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That'll do it, yep

spiral pasture
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should i ctrl s or no?

left stream
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Na, when you exit that window it saves it

spiral pasture
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ah good good

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wait holy shit

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it looks like it was my filament was bad

left stream
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Ahh, that could cause it. I got a filament dryer to keep mine good since I live in a humid environment

spiral pasture
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i just changed

left stream
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I do see you have Z-hop on, that can cause stringing as well, so maybe experiment with it off as well

spiral pasture
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and it looks like PLA works between 180-215

spiral pasture
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the video i send explains it really will

left stream
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Oh, one thing, becuase I don't really know how the vyper handles it normally

spiral pasture
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dam nvm

left stream
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I don't think it saves the bed mesh to the EEProm normally, at least from what I've seen from watching the console

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So techincally it kinda expects you to level every time it's booted up

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But you can save it

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One sec lemme make sure I get the right codes for you

spiral pasture
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do you think the nozzel is broken here as will?

left stream
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Not sure, Z-hop on can cause that from what I've seen

spiral pasture
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less turn it off and see i mean it is way cleaner the before.

left stream
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Ok so, to save the bed mesh, you can insert G29 to run an auto-level, then under that line you can run M500 to save it

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If you're about to start a new print, you might wanna do that now, so it's saved for the future

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Just this once add this to the start Gcode:

G29
M500

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Then after this print you can remove it

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Add it before the M420 line

spiral pasture
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so something like this?

left stream
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Move them up before M420

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So it gets the new bed mesh

spiral pasture
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i see

left stream
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I'd move them to the top for now, I think you also want M420 before a couple of those. I'm not sure but better to be safe I suppose

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I don't know the exact point it needs to load the mesh by

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So I do it earlier

spiral pasture
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so like this

left stream
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There's also a plug-in called AutoTowers Generator. That has a long list of calibration towers that will automatically handle things like different retraction distances/speeds and temps and all

left stream
spiral pasture
left stream
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With AutoTower Generator it will use your normal print settings except the one it's testing. So if you're testing retraction distance, it'll keep your configured retraction speed, printing temp, printing speed, etc. Only the retraction distance will change during the print

spiral pasture
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ah i see

left stream
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I normally do temp first, set that in the material profile and print profile, then retraction distance and set that, then retraction speed

spiral pasture
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should i change any of this before printing?

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do you have a sweet spot you found?

left stream
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Which if you weren't aware of, material profiles are really nice if you don't use the same filament all the time

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It all really depends on the filament, you should calibrate each filament you get and save the settings in cura

spiral pasture
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i am only planing to use PLA for now

left stream
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If you press crtl+K, you'll open up the materials profiles, you can create custom ones there with the info you've found during calibration

spiral pasture
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wtf is this

left stream
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Yeah, but different brands, colors, and styles such as silk/matte/ etc will need different settings

spiral pasture
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ye

left stream
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I normally go to generic PLA and slick the hamburger menu in the top right and duplicate, then edit that

spiral pasture
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what should i put this at?

left stream
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You've got to calibrate it first to find out

spiral pasture
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when i am doing the temp tower what am i trying to figur out?

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also does it do it auto or should i change the temp each time?

left stream
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When you select the filament in the Prepare tab, it'll automatically change the settings to match it's settings. It'll prompt you to keep or discard changes when you switch

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As for the temp tower and calibration, I actually have a good site for this, one sec

spiral pasture
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i see

left stream
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For the temp tower, I look for a smooth print, where there isn't any loose strings on the bridge or anything that looks wrong (like stringing, melting, etc). Usually you'll see a range that looks alright, at that point you just pick the one that looks the best for you

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For retraction, I look for the lowest amount that doesn't string. I've found that the Vyper doesn't usually need the 6-8mm retraction that other bowden extruders do, I'm usually closer to 3-5mm

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And for speed it's the same thing, I set it to whatever I found looked good in the distance test, then look for the highest speed that still looks good on the speed test

spiral pasture
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this what i got today

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from 220 to 190

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this was before changing filament but it is from the same brand.

left stream
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The bottom on the right picture looks like it's too high, it's all melty and that's why it's stringing like crazy. I'd turn off Z-hop and try again. I'd also recommend going though the calibration steps on that site. Once I went though everything I could, I have much better prints. I'd wager with that result, once you get stringing under control is probably going to print somewhere around 190-200, but stringing is making it hard to read

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Have your filaments been left out for a good while? They can absorb moisture and that can cause a lot of printing problems because it makes it brittle

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I personally bought a filament dryer for live use, but you can also use a few other things like a dehydrator or an oven (if it can go low enough, mine can't) to dry them out

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I can't say that's whats causing the issues or anything, but dry filament is happy filament

spiral pasture
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ye and i just got black one out of the bag like one week a go

left stream
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Ok cool

spiral pasture
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i am really new to 3D printing

left stream
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I am too, hasn't even been a month, but I just fell down the rabbit hole like crazy lol

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It absorbed all my free time and my non-free time and now I know a good bit lol

spiral pasture
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i learned a lot about supports and how dot make a good one if your trying to print minis

left stream
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I also flashed my vyper with custom firmware to enable linear accelleration

spiral pasture
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but strining i have no idea i tryed everything i can think off

left stream
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It might be the nozzle/hotend. They are the most important part of the printer, luckily they're pretty cheap but I didn't have great luck with an Amazon hotend

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When I replaced mine, I did calibrations and it just... worked

spiral pasture
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hmmm

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i did get one free when i got my printer

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i mean i had one in it and one on the side

left stream
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An extra nozzle you mean?

spiral pasture
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yeah

left stream
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It might be worth switching out then

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Just to see if it's the problem

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One sec lemme get you a video, I actually broke my first hotend because I didn't know what I was doing when I tried to remove the nozzle

spiral pasture
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yeah i need to figure out how to remove it then

left stream
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Don't be like me and not hold the hotend with a pair of plyers and just start turning

spiral pasture
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well i think it is the hot end

left stream
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It says to use a socket wrench, but you can use the tiny wrench it came with

spiral pasture
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i am getting the strining after the G code and stuff

left stream
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I'd replace the nozzle first to see if that helps

spiral pasture
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yeah i will do that now

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i should remove the filmint first right

left stream
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Yeah, I remove it and heat it up to 230 so that if there's any stuck, it's melted and I can still unscrew it

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Just be careful because if you're using that tiny wrench, it can get hot after a bit of being in contact with the nozzle

spiral pasture
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i see

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i got flat plier to use

left stream
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I kinda assumed lol, they were cheap

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When my current one wears down, I might try some and if they suck, I might get a ruby/diamond tipped one, depending on price

sage wyvern
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It'll only result in a marginal difference but once you start seeing any stringing replace the nozzle

sage wyvern
left stream
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No?

sage wyvern
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Longevity maybe but not worth it in my opinion

left stream
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Any suggestions for replacements once this one's worn down?

sage wyvern
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This demonstrates what nozzle wear does to your print, while also showing how bad cheap nozzles are

spiral pasture
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why is it so hard to pull it off

sage wyvern
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??

spiral pasture
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it is hafe way

left stream
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Is it at an angle?

spiral pasture
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yeah it looks like

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i had to take beark and water down my tools

left stream
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If it's at an angle, you'll have to try to correct that, it should come out smoothly straight down

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Only real resistance should be in the beginning

spiral pasture
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well dam

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i am stuck like that

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it is shread off

left stream
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I wouldn't assume that, I would just think it's stuck at a slight angle

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I haven't encountered that

spiral pasture
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shouldi turn it off?

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and try removing it then?

left stream
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Uhhh, honestly I'm not sure

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At this point you probably don't need the heat

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So for safety and all yeah. it might just need to be jostled back into the thread

spiral pasture
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It is time to do it the hard way

spiral pasture
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well i need new hotend it can not be removed

left stream
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Oh dang, that sucks. I do recommend ordering directly from Anycubic for that after my experience with an Amazon one. Shipping takes longer but you get a working piece

north drift
left stream
spiral pasture
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if i keep going it will get recked no matter what

north drift
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Damn, sorry to hear that. 😔

spiral pasture
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so i removed it

north drift
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You could, potentially, run a thread chaser through

spiral pasture
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well it is fine tomorrow the new one should come to me

north drift
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But at that point yeah just replace

spiral pasture
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It is probably stills works but

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I don’t trust it at this point

ebon hullBOT
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This post has been inactive for over 1 hour and so has been closed. To reopen this post simply send another message.

ebon hullBOT
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sage wyvern
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These posts are intended for when you need help not documenting progress

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Im no mod but this clutters the channel and means people in need of help might be looked over

spiral pasture
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i see