#Top layer of PETG lifting up and just looking 'ugly'

1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

loud mason
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So for some reason my PETG is printing badly. Very weak that if you bend it al all it snaps. You can see in the picture that the top is lifting as well as unusually opaque (when compared to printing similar petg on a 0.6mm nozzle different printer).
Ender 3
Klipper
Orcaslicer
Polymaker Clear PETG (respooled from a 3kg spool)
Please help

ivory lilyBOT
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AI Help

Based on the information provided, there could be a few reasons for the weak and brittle prints with your PETG filament. Here are some troubleshooting steps you can try:

  1. Check your print settings: Ensure that you are using the correct temperature for your PETG filament as recommended by the manufacturer. PETG typically requires higher temperatures compared to PLA. Also, check that your print bed is properly leveled and the first layer is adhering well.

  2. Improve bed adhesion: PETG adheres better to a heated print bed. Make sure your bed is heated to the recommended temperature (usually between 70-80°C) and consider using a layer of adhesive like hairspray, glue stick, or PETG-specific adhesives.

  3. Adjust nozzle height: If the top layer is lifting, it might indicate improper nozzle height. Try adjusting the nozzle closer to the bed by small increments until you get better adhesion between layers.

  4. Slow down print speed: Print speed can affect the quality of the print. Slow...

cursive lichen
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I think bot basically pointed stuff out pretty good but.
how does the bottom layer look like.

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also. print speed/temperature setting for filament? i see recommended print temp is 230-240

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what happens if you try printing another petg. have you reduced the problem down already? any previous troubleshooting?

loud mason
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Bottom looks decent.

cursive lichen
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I think i see some signs of either underextrusion or bed distance to nozzle.

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use another filament on its ideal settings and i'd do comparison before blaming on configuration of printer or the filament itself

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(or printer hardware, if you get better result with higher temp sounds like that could be related)

loud mason
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I can try it though

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ill check flow first with the orcaslicer flow calibration and then once i think its good will do a z offset check