Fully printable frame

[dusky badge]

I would like to show you my 100% printable frame.
I have invested a lot of time and testing and am looking forward to putting it online soon🤩
I still have a few ideas and upgrades that I plan for the future

[brisk surge]

this looks really good

[dusky badge]

thank you!

One of 2 locking mechanisms so far

[stray silo]

i like this concept for making tiny custom dryboxes/ how much filament does that drybox of yours take? and how much was panel cost?

also would like to know how modular this is, you could probably make the bottom part printable for dryboxes and integrated silica holders and a sensor

really cool project anyways!

[dusky badge]

Thanks.
I haven't weighed it now, but the box should have about 600-700g. But you can certainly use fewer walls and infill with such small boxes. (my box are only remnants of my test prints 😛 )
I'm still working on an Excel list that calculates the required parts including weight on the desired lengths entered

The panel didn't cost me anything because it's the pane of a broken Ikea picture frame 😄
I have a 4mm plexiglas for the main frame. I think it cost about €35 per square meter

the corners of the frame are 5cm and the struts are available in 5/10/15/20cm versions. So the smallest cube would be 10x10x10

drying boxes are definitely a good idea! I'll think about it when I'm done with the basic structure 🙂

[stray silo]

yeah this is awesome

what are you printing this out of, i can imagine you want abs because youre making an enclosure

[dusky badge]

at the moment it is a mixture of PLA and PETG.
The funny thing is, I just wanted to quickly build a cardboard enclosure to be able to print something out of ABS/ASA...then I designed this frame here. It's a real rabbit hole.
So this is a chicken or egg situation.

I'm curious about the tolerances on parts printed from ABS - because of the shrinkage

but I think ABS/ASA is not absolutely necessary. PETG should be fine

[stray silo]

if youre getting higher chamber temps you for sure want abs

[charred trellis]

that looks really nice!

[dusky badge]

for everything over 70° or 80° of course

[brisk surge]

what is the max chamber temp you got with this? also how sturdy is the top if you placed multiple dryboxes will it hold?

[dusky badge]

I haven't measured before.
but now as a test, only with the print bed heating switched on at 100° I reached +10° ambient temperature after ~20-25 minutes

I would like to print ASA soon, so I have to see how I will heat the chamber

the stability also depends heavily on the panels used.
I have a wooden panel at the top with almost 8mm. This way the load is evenly distributed.
2x cardboard and 2x 4mm plexi on the side. That's extremely stable
You can easily load it with 40-50kg for a short time

I think in the long run 10 kg shouldn't be a problem?

[brisk surge]

that's reasonable for 3 or 4 dryboxes

since you have e3 s1 how big is the enclosure? i have s1 pro and i want to check the length and depth if it will fit on the table

[dusky badge]

I made it 60x60. So the bed and cables have enough space.
Maybe 50x50 would work too.

I made 50 at the height

[dusky badge]

That should be no problem

[brisk surge]

nice 👌

i will be waiting for the release 👍

[dusky badge]

https://tenor.com/view/coming-soon-gif-8921141

[wet shadow]

looks absolutely brilliant. wish my ender 3 max fit in it lol

love the joint design thats some wonderful woodworking inspiration

[dusky badge]

TheFrame is now online 🙈
https://cults3d.com/de/modell-3d/werkzeuge/theframe-100-printable-frame-for-enclosures-etc

[dusky badge]

You can build TheFrame as big, as you want 🤓

[dusky badge]

funnily enough, i was inspired by the woodworking to the joint design😅

[wet shadow]

yeah thats what i meant lol

[wet shadow]

oooooh

i might just do that then

[dusky badge]

❤️

[dusky badge]

I think that should answer your question about stability 🙂 @brisk surge

[wet shadow]

Impressive on the first two pics. I'd center them for the last test tho cus spread out like that it's not that heavy

[kind condor]

Could you post it on myminifactory? :) As cults steals money from designers

[brisk surge]

oh shit 😂 that's more than a couple of dryboxes

[dusky badge]

I didn't know the site until now...as far as I can see, I have to pay €25 a month here to be able to put paid models online. And then an additional 8% will still be deducted from the sale 😵 💸

[dusky badge]

😅

[dusky badge]

I don't think that changes the loading on the frame itself. Rather, the wooden board is even more stressed

[kind condor]

hot damn

[wet shadow]

The bending force of the wood pushes to the side more than down in the original. Looking strong as fuck tho nice work

[dusky badge]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujtu037F6Cg

[stray silo]

that door locking mechanism is clever

is this printable on 235x235 btw?

[dusky badge]

Thanks! it's the small details like this locking mechanism or the hinge that took a lot of time because i wanted a simple and good solution
there are models of the struts from 5-20cm in 5cm increments.
so the frame should be printable with pretty much any printer.
if someone has a larger print area, i can create even longer struts 😄

[stray silo]

damn

i wanna buy the files just to support you

i feel like this project is really clever and a good idea

[spring wind]

What material are the walls?

[dusky badge]

Thanks! ❤️
I see so many stopgap solutions for a chamber, i honestly thought there would be more demand.
but it doesn't matter, i learned a lot and had a lot of fun doing it

[dusky badge]

wood, cardboard and plexiglass

[charred trellis]

I think I will buy it when my new PETG arrives

[dusky badge]

Glad to hear that!
consider that such a frame weighs between 1 and 2kg!

[small crest]

whoah. that design is a steal for $5.46 USD

approximately how myny rolls/kg of filament would this take for a 300x300 SV06+ ? 2-3 rolls? looks like maybe 1 or 2

[dusky badge]

Please determine the required dimensions yourself. note that the print bed must be able to move completely back and forth. the cables also need some space.
You can use the Excel file to make a rough calculation with the dimensions you want. The best possible combination of parts is calculated here and you are also shown which parts you need.
But I'm pretty sure you'll need about 2kg of filament

Since you have a 300mm print bed, I could also create 25cm struts for you (I guess 300mm wouldn't make sense?)

macros must be activated for the calculation to work

[scenic kelp]

Looks great, love the LED lights.

[static basin]

I'll probably get this and find some way to attach it to the frame of my bed slingers to save space - basically make the frame part of the printer

There's some adapters to attach the Mobius 4 to the anycubic mega - I can probs mod them to be anchor points for the frame

Along with some Z bracing 🤔

[dusky badge]

sounds interesting. if you know exactly what you want/need let me know and give me the dimensions, then I can see if we can find a solution 🙂

[static basin]

@dusky badge is there a version of the frame that can take acoustic foam instead of a sheet of whatever (glass, metal, etc) 🤔

Maybe with inbuilt or attachable living spring clips

[dusky badge]

hmm, do you mean something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/-/de/dp/B08R1JFZCF/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=acoustic%2Bfoam&qid=1688323303&sr=8-5&th=1

[dusky badge]

something like that?

I'm only concerned about the stability if no side walls are installed at all

[brisk surge]

that's actually a good idea, smaller space = faster to heat up and less material to use

[static basin]

Yep!

[brisk surge]

like a tent type dimensions

[static basin]

Good point , they would add a lot of necessary rigidity

May be best to simply.glue the foam to the panels

[static basin]

And no worries of overhearing PSU and main board since you're not enclosing the entire printer

Just the print area

[dusky badge]

That's what I was about to say 🙂 just use cardboard etc

[brisk surge]

ohh i get what you mean now the bottom frame of the printer would be open and up will be enclosed

[static basin]

Well cardboard may not be rigid enough. Probs best to use some standard sheet there for the structure

[static basin]

Yep basically the bottom of the frame is the top of the printer chassis

[brisk surge]

i can see a possibility on the e3 s1, there is screws on the corners and the vertical z extrusions to bolt the part on them

[static basin]

Highly precise engineering mockup do not steal

[brisk surge]

you don't need that much structure for small enclosure i think it will hold fine

[static basin]

For the mega sure - since will use the Z structure and Z braces for rigidity anyway

But trust me induced vibrations can be a pain

[brisk surge]

yeah this would be ideal

[static basin]

So.youd still want something to stabilize it

Maybe like this

With adjustable feet being able to hold the frame.in place too

To the ground

[brisk surge]

add more vertical parts or X shape parts to hold each corners

[static basin]

Still saves space

When I have more time I'll download the model and try to CAD something up

[static basin]

Yep and add a sick flame decal to the side

[dusky badge]

I thought about that too at first. but don't forget, the print bed needs a lot of space to move! the cable also has to go in there somehow 🙂

[static basin]

Yep yep I've come up with an approx size and set up in my head. Having the Mobius makes.it easier since the extruder mounts to the top of the Z structure there

So I just need the tube running in

The mega uses those Z braces to channel the other cable loom in

Since heat rises, even having small openings near the bottom should cause too many issues

If I'm not mistaken the mega is designed so the front of the hull is approx as long as the bed sticks.out.

It sticks out more towards the rear so I'd need to account for that and it's cabling

[brisk surge]

do you have the cad file posted on cults?

[static basin]

The kp3s is a diff story. Very small hull, lots of bed stick-out

But I'd be mainly focused on turning my mega into an ABS machine anyway

[dusky badge]

only the stl files

[dusky badge]

ah ok that sounds good!
the ender 3 s1 also needs a lot of space for the cable

[brisk surge]

Hello, have you done any testing on chamber temperature?

[lavish lance]

prob doing one of these to print some abs, does it fit in a lack table?

[unique sun]

What kind of print time are we looking at here roughly, I can't tell (because I'm new to 3DP and want an enclosure for my SV06+)

[stray silo]

That'll depend on your configured print settings and acceleration and how big your frame will be, doubt the OP can give a good estimate

[unique sun]

What filament type (that doesn't already essentially require an enclosure to print) can be up to the task for this project

[dusky badge]

I haven't tested it yet, but I'll probably print ASA in the next few days. Then I will measure the temperatures.
But I think without heating you will not reach more than 40°. it also depends on which walls you use

[dusky badge]

If you use the lack table, the frame isn't necessary, is it? Or do you need something so that you can attach the side walls well to the table? But there are already a lot of models for that?

[dusky badge]

That depends on how fast your printer can 😅
but be prepared for a long long print time. Calculate with 1-2kg filament. I recommend PETG (or ASA if you want high temps in the chamber. But as a beginner, Asa printing without a chamber will be difficult 🙈 )
I printed from PETG and PLA (because I tried a lot). In the future I will reprint everything from PETG or ASA - I don't know exactly what yet.

I'll slice a few parts to give you an idea of how long it takes to print

For example the corners. You need 8 of them in total

these are the struts, depending on the size of the frame you will probably need between 16 and 20 of them

a few of the keepers

And there are other parts that I don't want to look for all of them now 🙈

printed with an ender 3 S1 and klipper.
I have optimized the settings for fast printing. For nicer results I would (for my printer) print about 20-30% slower

[unique sun]

yeah that last part of what you said makes sense. There's no point in all this effort and time for it to only turn out decent/usable rather than actually-nice results

[stray silo]

wait 130grams takes u 8h?

or is your filament not configured properly

[dusky badge]

yes i had to print quickly as i printed a lot of prototypes which i ended up using anyway

[dusky badge]

👀 uff, something in the slicer doesn't seem to fit...according to my list, one corner weighs about 140g 😵

[stray silo]

i do not speak german ;_;

oh

[dusky badge]

😂 sorry

[stray silo]

all good

[dusky badge]

i forgot 😛

[stray silo]

im dutch and have been taught some german, that wasnt easy to decipher in 1 second though befor eyou changed haha

makes sense then anyways

[dusky badge]

😅 haha

close to the limit of my ender 3 S1 i would say

the cht nozzle does its job well

hm, the information about the required filament really doesn't fit at all... no idea what's going on with the PrusaSlicer

[lavish lance]

my printer doesnt fit in a lack table, due to height, thats why im looking into other enclosure options

[dusky badge]

ah ok, i see. Yes, you can adjust my frame freely as you need it.
here is the excel file to calculate the parts. above you can enter your desired size

[lavish lance]

great, thanks

[spring wind]

https://www.printables.com/model/547349-3d-printer-encloser

Is this a good idea

[lavish lance]

i meant to use the printable frame lol

it seeme better than that one

[spring wind]

What

[lavish lance]

#1119010153006645258 message

[spring wind]

Ah

Well no i am asking if its a good idea

Not what to use

[lavish lance]

you want an enclosure?

[spring wind]

No

[lavish lance]

then why would you do that?

[spring wind]

Because it looks like a unique idea

[lavish lance]

for an enclosure

[spring wind]

Yes

[lavish lance]

and you dont want an enclosure

[spring wind]

No

[lavish lance]

so why do it?

[spring wind]

Because it looks like a cool idea

[lavish lance]

oh god

[spring wind]

Im not even wanting to do it as i said

I was just asking what could be the problems with it

[rocky coral]

Hey, sorry to necropost, but I've been trying to decipher this calculator for like... 30 minutes lol.
I'm trying to print a 70cmx70cmx70cm enclosure, and I'm not sure what that is relative to the inserts? Unless I'm missing a field here

[dusky badge]

hey,

no problem! If you have any questions, bring them on 😁
For "Desired length X/Y/Z" you have to enter 70 each.

here you will be suggested 3x20cm per edge length (do not forget, the corner parts each have an additional 5cm -> (2x5cm)+(3x20cm) =70cm)

but please check everything again to see whether the calculations with the remaining parts can fit so far. The Excel spreadsheet is very complex and got on my nerves...🙈 😅 I can't guarantee 100% that there wasn't an error somewhere.

[real viper]

Awesome work

[dusky badge]

The idea is good. However, I can imagine that the parts are very difficult to print. And you need the pipes. 🙂

I like the idea of the door. But I can imagine that it's not all that stable.

I've seen a few models of DIY "printable frames". But I'm always skeptical when even the designer doesn't have any photos of the printed parts 😛

[rocky coral]

Ahhh, okay, gotcha. I was under the impression the green highlights were the measurements for the acrylic/cardboard or something lol

Thank you very much!!

[spring wind]

the designer doesn't own a 3d printer himself, but I just thought the idea is pretty cool and unique

[dusky badge]

no problem I like to help. Unfortunately, I forgot to delete the entered values from the uploaded Excel sheet. I'll do the upload again soon to avoid confusion 🙂

[dusky badge]

ah OK🙈

[dusky badge]

yes the idea is not bad! When I get a chance I'll try to print out a part. but as I said, it looks very difficult to print to me.

i thought long and hard about how to design the parts so that they would be easy to print

[spring wind]

I can give you the makers discord tag

he will gladly accept help for improving it

[dusky badge]

Yes please. it's always interesting to see other ideas

[spring wind]

he left the server i found him in, not sure why

anyway i will dm it to you

[dusky badge]

oh OK. thank you 🙂

[rocky coral]

My only issue with fulfilling this project is the sheer amount of print time

p much talking 5+ days of just back to back printing

[dusky badge]

uh, 5 days is really tough! 😵
what speeds and infill do you work with?
try to print as many of the small parts as possible at the same time. then you have fewer problems with the minimal layer times.(make sure you don't have any stringing)
and with the struts you can also use quite high speeds for the inner walls
but yeah, it's a big project 🙈

i also mixed the infill on the struts so that there is only a lot of infill in the heavily used areas.

I saved on the top layers...so you can see the infill on my struts🙈 😅

[rocky coral]

1% infill, 100mm/s print speeds (roughly)

I use Cura, so I don't think I can do custom infill unfortunately

[dusky badge]

😵

~1.5kg is a lot to print 🙈

[rocky coral]

Do you have any advice on mounting one of your frames to a Lack table?

Just like, a one inch overhang

[dusky badge]

not until now. 😅
Just to get it right... do you want to screw the frame to the top of the table? or between the legs with an overhang so that the frame/Lack table becomes wider?

[rocky coral]

Good question

Basically, I ordered two Lacks, and they were just barely too small to fit my Anycubic Mega X, only in terms of height and width (bed extends past clearance when fully extended)

I only need about 1-3 extra inches around the table

I have 0 experience with CAD, but I have experience modeling functional prints in blender

[dusky badge]

OK I think I understand what you need. how much are you missing in height?
give me some time, after 1 or 2 beers i might have an idea 😅

[rocky coral]

Pshhh, liiike...

3 inches maybe?

I can give you an exact number once I'm home

[dusky badge]

ok that's enough for me as a clue. the exact heights are then adjusted quickly 🙂

[rocky coral]

Thank you!!!!

[dusky badge]

does that make any sense to you?
I couldn't think of anything simpler. Unfortunately, this is again quite complex and you need some additional parts🙈 😵

@rocky coral

[rocky coral]

Holy shit

This is great, thank you!

[spring wind]

@dusky badge did my friend reply

the pipe enclosure

[dusky badge]

I didn't write to him.
I would have been interested in the discord. But I don't know what the point of communicating directly with him is. Since I'm not going to build a complete frame, I can't contribute very much 🙂

he should just set up a frame himself and then he can see where the weak points are.
I printed one of his corner pieces.. that seems pretty stable.

and i think the frame needs a kind of seal so that the warm air between the tube and the plexiglass cannot escape

[spring wind]

Ah OK i understand

Yeah theres totally room for improvement

I like the doors too pretty creative

[dusky badge]

i just think that there is a lot of stress on the middle part of the frame. And since there are no screw connections in the Plexigas (or whatever walls are used), the frame will become unstable here. It would make more sense to move the hinge to the left and right edges
In addition, this door needs a lot of space to open.

I see he's just starting to print the parts in small. When you then hold the parts in your hand, you really notice where there are problems.

[junior edge]

this is awesome i would print this

[bronze siren]

Interested in this. Are you planning on releasing longer struts? I personally would love to see 25-30-35cm as well.

[dusky badge]

Thanks! I've already made some. I just haven't uploaded it yet because then I would have to update the scripts in the Excel file... and I really don't have the nerve for that at the moment! 😛 but I can then send them via PM. I can also make other lengths upon request, it's done really quickly 🙂

[bronze siren]

Good to know, Cults3d still the best place to buy it?

Another thing, I see that you are able to use a thickness up to 7mm. Do you think it would be possible to use 2mm acrylic, 2mm spacer and 2 mm acrylic again?

Like this basically, will improve the heat retention by a good amount

[dusky badge]

Cults3d is the only place to buy 😅 🙈
I see no problem with 6mm panels. But i think, you would have to use "spacer" in the middle of the panels.

you could also try something like that?

If you want, I can send you the file for a strut and a holder, then you can test whether that would work for you with 6mm?

[dusky badge]

6mm is definitely possible. But I would say that the sweet spot is 4-5mm

[bronze siren]

Haha, sweet. Thanks for checking that out, I'll just buy it off Cults right now

[dusky badge]

❤️

Just let me know if you need help anywhere 🤓

[bronze siren]

Just bought, I love to have those longer struts 😉

[dusky badge]

up to 35cm?

[bronze siren]

Yeah, but if you have only 25-30cm made that's fine as well

[dusky badge]

no problem, it's done in 2 minutes 🙂

[dusky badge]

I've been printing a lot of ASA parts for my Voron lately and can give a few updates on the temperatures.
I didn't get the chamber temperature above 45 - 50 degrees C°, no matter what I tried (even with an additional blanket over the enclosure). Even after 15-20 hours of printing, the temperature wasn't any higher.
I haven't installed any extra heating. The print bed alone heats (110 C°)
Room temperature approx. 22 C°

The question is whether a standard printer can even tolerate higher temperatures. My Ender 3 S1 prints surprisingly reliably at these temperatures, even if I sometimes feel sorry for it 🙈

And I have also noticed that the tolerances on the PLA parts become slightly larger over time. The connecting pieces are now coming loose on their own.

So I recommend at least using PETG or gluing the parts together

[rocky coral]

Scary thought

Your enclosure just falls apart mid-print

Letting out a plume of 110C air

Full of ASA and ABS fumes

Nightmare

[summer ingot]

Looks great

[lavish lance]

you will have another problems at 110 chamber

[dusky badge]

don't worry, the frame won't fall apart. But I notice that the small connecting pieces are no longer as tight as they were at the beginning.
It's very interesting to observe how PLA reacts even to such low temperatures