#ender 3 problems
1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
I'm sorry, but I need more information to be able to help you. Can you please specify what "this" is referring to? Also, can you provide a picture of the issue, if possible?
Stock ender 3 with 3d printed x and y tensioners, trying to print pla at 200 degrees nozzle and 60 degrees bed, I did fix this issue for a little bit by increasing my retraction distance from 5 to 6 and decreasing the retraction speed to 25-35mm/s, printing at 60mm/s, I also have ultimaker cura 5.3.2 (if that's the latest version)
wich pla brand?
creality PLA?
Yes
?coldpull
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how does your extruder look when this is happening?
Where
@grim monolith I cant seem to push this up
And I'm quite low on length of tube
@twilit comet
you're pushing down on the little white part that inserts into the metal right?
might be easier to get out with it screwed in
the tube isn't moving or the tab isn't moving
I dont get why you asked this?
The tube
could be under-extruding
what does your filament look like after it's been fed through the gears
screw the fitting back into the hotend, push down that tab, and give a really solid pull on the tube
brace the top of the gantry with your hand if you need to
Better, hot or cold?
you could try hot but that's not really part of the hotend that retains heat
it's above the heatbreak
for your original question, this looks like underextrusion to me which is why i'm asking about the extruder motor
also maybe layer shift? is that image of a dimensionally accurate piece?
how tight are your belts?
Got it in
?hotend
Bouncy
My 3 cold pulls (im missing the third one)
that doesn't really give me any insight so i'll just say that wobble like this is usually belt tension
What should the ideal bed tension be
reference this photo, the hotend on the right, it looks like you might not be getting your PTFE to your nozzle fully
to my understanding you should be able to pinch it between two fingers with some resistance
tight enough so that your bed doesn't move when the stepper is locked
you want to eliminate any wobbling or vibration in any of the axes
I dont understand
This prob doesn't help
your fingers are the arrows
honestly i'm not a physicist or an engineer so i'm not sure
The only problem is that I am a engineer
if the vibration is being transfered into either your x, y, or z axes, it will affect the print
it's that simple
bed shouldn't move with stepper locked, hotend same, z same
I have my belts so that it feels bouncy/springy near the tensioners
i don't really have a guide for you past x/y only move when belt moves
tighter generally is better
that being said i think you can just slap some home depot foam and concrete under the printer to really isolate it
yeah that's standard, it holding home position
you have to hit disable steppers in the menu
to move them by hand
I print a lot and this also means that many of my prints run overnight. Unfortunately, our bedroom is right next to my office in which my main printers usually are. When I got into 3D printing it was a real pain because the printing noises just kept me from some good night sleep so I usually only ra
i feel like we're going down the rabbit hole here though
is your ptfe tube out?
How much resistance should I get when leveling my 4 corners
No its in
getting it so you can pull it out/put it back in is probably your first priority here
Fair
because if your ptfe isn't setup properly it can look like other issues
I can now pull my tube in/out easily now
if you did your cold pull with the nozzle in, to me it looks like it could be seeping a bit
okay perfect
just took some force right?
Yes
okay so now you want to eliminate any possible gap between the PTFE tubing and the nozzle itself
I took the tube out and stuck some pla in it by hand so it just heated it up faster it could push it out the nozzle
next priority should be to install PTFE properly
I have
did you heat the end, loosen the coupling, feed the PTFE, lock coupling, and then tigthen coupling?
Yes
okay perfect
for leveling, i have a feeler gauge i use but it's really a thing you dial in
if it's a piece of paper and you picture the nozzel is a pencil, you want to be able to make a thin line
for the ender i recommend tightening your screws all the way and then loosening for your leveling
I also noticed is it normal for my infill to look like the layers are not even sticking to each other
there's several variables that can affect that
but generally layers should adhere regardless of what function they serve in the print
No I mean my infill layers most of them aren't touching eachother apart from the cross sections ( I'm using zig zag)
vertically or horizontally
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find something here that works for you and adjust your z axis offset as the layer goes down
Height
Is that the knobs
This is what I mean
this looks like an extrusion issue
no, it's the setting in the menu called z axis offset
I can never find it cause I never know it existed
how long have you had this machine
have you been using the manual leveling nobs to set your offset this whole time?
i'm just confused because in most instructional videos and manuals i've seen, this functionality is made pretty explicit
level your bed, calibrate your extruder, print a test cube
?extrusionissues
?esteps
?belt-tension
I've done that
Only using knobs
yeah don't use the nobs for offset, you just want to use those to make sure the bed is the same height in all four corners
so then your extrusion issues are most likely mechanical which i why i asked about your extruder in the first place
My extruder seems completely fine it skips once in a while but that's it
okay that's not fine
It's not cracked
What can cause it to skip
Tomorrow can you help me sort out my settings and stuff since for me its 1 am
mechanical issues. screw not tight enough, teeth worn down, etc
idk if i can personally but someone else on here will for sure
i will say i never solved my e3v2 neo's extrusion issues, i just got an sv06 and never looked back
i ran into problems literally a month after owning
I had this same problem like a week or 2 ago and people just said to get new hot ends and extruders
yeah i decided to just get a whole new machine 
new extruder will fix the issue for sure
the stock creality extruders are bad
welp if you wanna learn how 3d printers work keep the ender around because it's sure to fail again
I know
glad i know what i know though!
Would loosening the bolt on the extruder make it tighter?
oh god
i think so????
you can pull the PTFE out of the extruder side and check how deep the tooth marks are on the filament
that screw controls the tension
To?
That's not what it looks like
which holds the spinning wheel that presses the filament into the toothed gear
The bolt screws into the thread that keeps the spring in place
the piece that is holding the screw is also holding the spinning bearing
this piece, the arm, is tensioned by the spring
This
Nope all I see is the bolt screws into the thread and the thread is only there, free floating because of the spring
And the thread keeps the bold there
it's a screw
there's a metric head slot for it
it screws either clockwise or counterclockwise
that is not a thread lmao
it's just to keep the spring around the screw
look at the head of the screw, determine the size of driver/bit needed to turn it, and rotate it it in a direction
squeeze the arm and notice the increase or decrease in force needed
So it's either I put it back together wrong or mine don't work
make a video
Taking it apart and putting it back together
you might not need to
Why
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Virtually all 3D printers have adjustment screws, knobs, or levers to change the pretension on the filament in the extruder. Though how do you properly set it for your application, how can you get the ...
click that
it's your extruder
yup
that adjusts the tension on your filament
that is the screw i was referencing
and that audible creaking was the tension changing
That's the spring trying to kill itself
because of tension
it is
too
taught
compressed
whatever you wanna call it
it is adjusting the spring
which controls the tension
this is the function of the spring
It moves the spring like 3 millimetres when it's fully tightened
So I'm sure it's not doing it properly
okay that is entirely different than telling me that it's not what the function is
i have had experience with this piece of equipment and am explaining to you that the issue is your extruder skipping, which is most likely because of the tension
Yes
I know that
U said already
But I don't think my tensioner is working properly
print spacers
That's the god awful clicking u heard
for reference btw
Screw vs Bolt - Difference Between Bolt and Screw - Bolt and Screw#Screw#bolt#Learning_Engineering#konok_kamruzzamanFollow me on Facebook: https://www.facebo...
No way
when you interchange terminology things get really confusing
No I was saying the bolt "screws" into the thread
.
there isn't a bolt in the extruder
engineers lmao
Where does the long bolt go then I cant just bend 90 degrees
damn didn't know the e3 extruder had bolts
is that a knockoff or something
i know there's a screw that adjusts tension
since screws go into threaded parts, like the arm
and bolts affix non threaded parts with a nut
but y'know i'm not an engineer just some dummy who had this exact problem
Cool
duhhh can you hear my knuckles dragging on the keyboard as i type this
my brain is having a hard time comprehending your issue oh nooo
what is a screw and what is a bolt i just don't get it
Well I'm sorry that my tensioner isn't working like everyone elses
:/
i've spent over two hours on your problem when i had it figured out from the jump dude
i'm not your 3d printing sherpa
watch some youtube videos and learn how your thing works ffs
ignorance is one thing but please don't try to educate me on something you're not understanding yourself
A nut has threads...
👍
get a refund from whatever school you paid too much for bud https://monroeengineering.com/blog/bolts-vs-screws-whats-the-difference/
Paid into non thanks very much
And u could of just sent that the first time?
@twilit comet if you can't be civil, then don't engage here.