#B̶u̶d̶g̶e̶t̶ Vz330 build
1 messages · Page 13 of 1
there has to be a better way to mount this, for some reason my brain is just not working
I felt that
the X bar is in the way

Speedholes
maybe, if I can make it serve a purpose and won't affect COM much
oh the duct mounting was so obvious from the start
just needed to actually rub the braincells together
giant ass screw to the rescue
I have m3x50, wtf is that length
regular yes, mine is not
yeah yours looks better
the new vcore one looks alright as well
are you running the Goliath air as conduction?
I won't
just strap a 2510 on
I have to slm my extruder to run conduction
and that makes the setup short so I'd have to slm the ufonator
to act as a bottom plate
would be pretty funny tho
I mean, I could just print the ufo and use as a bottom plate but not sure if that's rigid enough
annealed pps maybe
lmao
at that point I'll just slm it
fair
not sure how thin jlc manages to print walls. but we had quite some success printing 1mm and thinner walls out of AlSi10Mg
might be intresting for the duct
so it wont weight a ton
whats the wallthickness on it?
1.2 at lowest
should be fine if they have it figured out
yea thats the hard part with thin walls
kinda don't want to iterate it until it works
dont think they predeform parts with these batch printing services
rui got 4 heater blocks from them and none are usable
You don't know if they print it the same way every time either 😂
yeah
the heatsink is a odd one but other than that, nice
ye no clue why it's there
with a bit of airflow it stays cool
it has a sticker under it
i see 35°C with the cooling fans running
and its nothing crazy, just 3000rpm 80mm fans
yea...

you probably saved that one from a weird place
vz devs
would try to boot it with a 5V supply added and check if its working
will give you network too
"goliath"
wont show a bad mosfet, but will show if it works at all
Exactly
hmm, do I actually keep the superscuffcano
oh
bruh
a singular bruh is not enough
bruh
didnt expect a Kraken style heatbreak?
the paste is on the hot side and the cold side is bare
if its BN paste i guess they are fine with that
its kinda used as a sealer for leaky threads too
tastes like cpu paste
scrape some off and heat it
BN paste gets hard and powdery
CPU paste probably too but at lower temps i guess
yea thats a odd color for BN paste
ah shit the 6hc CAN connector is not ethernet
RJ11 nor RJ45
I have to find an old cable to strip
would I be committing heresy by soldering
yea its RJ11 because it only needs 4 pins the 8 from RJ45 would be overkill
its also mentioned all over the docs
never enough crimpers I guess
i have one capable of RJ11 and RJ45
just get decent housings, crappy ones suck really badly to crimp
got a telephone cable I can butcher
from 52 to 46 mm meltzone

half the mass tho
I bet that'll help my IS a ton and reduce dampening
I might get up to like 80-90 hz in X

It’s okay it happens to lots of guys
now I can finally design properly
COM is now super high up

I'd prefer it close to middle of X bar
wait
I could mze the goliath to be lazy
no way, it's perfect
I really hate to do it but I'm also really lazy
please like. put a thermistor on the nozzle somehow, the goliaths nozzle temp is gunna be so wonk compared to what the therm says lol
not an issue, I just compensate with RRFs heatforward
o cool
I did the same on my crappy therm 160W hotend
I don't need to know the nozzle temp but I know how big the difference can be, that's why I really don't wanna use an MZE
they could've done something like this but idk how much difference it makes
the bottom 10 mm lacks active heating so that's the issue
like this would've been perfect
but anyway that's only an issue at really high flows in really big nozzles
got the wifi card installed on the board?
there's no wifi card
have this connected to it via ethernet cable
never had that working reliable, went with powerline instead
crap
I have its IP on the router but can't seem to get to dwc
it works if I go router->duet
yea as mentioned never had using the ethernet over wifi stuff working reliable
I really don't wanna buy another switch
yeah this crappy ap is kinda useless
is that the best way to get wifi?
1.02 rev has a wifi module
it's not built in but addon
I only have 1 eth going into the printer room and kinda don't wanna deal with a switch
so I have to get wifi somehow but they don't make it easy pre 1.02
I wanna use this cheapo wifi repeater with lan but it's running some crappy os so I have to get openwrt up on it
windows ofc shit the bed with wsl so I have to set up dual boot again because my other stuff is decommissioned
god I hate dealing with os stuff
Ethernet or rpi is the only options ain’t it
or powerline or if I manage to run this openwrt ap
I could even power it from the duet itself
powerline?
ye
yeah
well alright got uart to the board, now I have to flash it somehow
Wifi repeaters are getting very cheap nowadays, about 5 euro/dollar, and are quite easy to modify. And of course have built-in power supply! I want to test if these can be used as general purpose SBCs. They used to come with a RTL8196E which has good open source support, but lately they seem to have the QCA9533 which has great support in OpenWrt...
Any reason you aren’t doing sbc
apparently it's crappy
and the rpi zero 2 I have is not really capable of fun stuff
ahh
I have a pi 4 I can use but I wanted to try Ethernet first
wait
the fysetc board might have onboard wifi
I’ve heard the same from chase
"you can cancel the bootloader and drop in an u-boot shell"
now how does one do that
I think it's not booting properly when I have uart hooked up
ah shit the uart is 2.6V
nvm I am dumb
running the mainboard in SBC mode or the Wifi module as mentioned
SBC mode means you wire up a RPI to the mainboard and run the webserver and some stuff on the RPI instead the Secondary MCU on the board
is sbc worse
it offers a few neat things like more involved plugins
downside is you have a slow ass Computer that takes ages to boot
Is that lancer
goliath
interesting, old part got lighter in color
never get tired of the looks of this
oh yeah
now that's a solid overhang
wish we had geometry aware wipe
Is this with the Goliath or still running the lancer?
that's gonna be the first thing I check
Might as well save the weight and parts if you can
it's thermal pasted to the top plate, hoping it can do ABS without a fan
More parts and more fans just means more weight and more things to rattle
The scope creep never ends
it keeps pulling me back in when I think I'm finished
I might have to bottom rail
Scope creep a toolchanger
Hell no
funky
lower COM
I mean I guess if your toolhead is rigid it shouldn’t cause any issues
and your toolhead is rigid
the toolhead is not the only thing on the Y axis
look how much closer the moving Y gantry COM is to the middle with bottom rail
I can convert by drilling 4 holes

I think I'll do it
tonight on bottom gear rail
bottom rail vz is not real it can't hurt you
except this one
this one hurts
?ytho
good COM
Makes sense
using conduction wont work?
yep, the heatsink is too hot for ABS
thats just a sign that you dont have enough metal there to conduct the heat
no it just not efficient enough
the heatsink fan died and I got the worst clog ever

this thing is full of hate for no reason
alright so as any sane person I tried to use violence and it worked
I basically hammered toothpicks through the hotend until it got clean
gotta say watching the tootpicks ignite in the hotend and making smokebombs was pretty epic
having an extruder with insane grip and push is nice until a clog happens and then it's just compacting cf into pet while annealing
it came out like a piece of industrial diamond
it's been working fantastic apart from the plasticy bits cooking and breaking
it craves the strength and certainty of steel
ah it clogged not because the heatcreep
it was simply at 450C instead 300
well that explains why the pc was squirting out
i can understand why they dont use the common thermocouples used on Hotrunners because they would require a amp board to work
but they also work with that kind of heater
this is a 104nt
the pt1000 was shit
but looks like the rrf 104nt example is not working as expected
not sure what exact thermocouple they run in hotrunners, all i know they have a polarity (wired up one backwards once and it caused some issue that got found luckly quite fast)
they also run rather stable without going way over target
I fucking hate having 3 sensors say 3 different things
K type thermocouples are popular because they're cheap and universal, which makes them even cheaper
this took 3 electronic stores to find
with new boards they include them
got this one for like 2 euros so whatever, at least I got like 5 meters of cable to use
would be not suprised if duet sells a wiring kit for the boards
dold has one for like 10
would ask first if they still stock it.
wanted to order one for a toolheadboard but they no longer stock that revision
ah alright, well I got like 3 duet 2 packs so that should be fine for now
yeah they do, they also sell the cables
I'm once again out of space in my electronics case
and the 6hc doesn't have separate 24V for the brain

you use 5V for it instead of 24V
that's why I got a combo PSU 
Combo PSU is not that great if you plan to add safety relays
I have a relay on the AC line it cuts everything
oh wait
yeah then it'd kill the psu that kills the board
nvm you're right
yea thats why i have a small seperate 5V PSU
a phone charger probably works just fine for that
I have a combo PSU that is always on, it powers the watercooling pump, electronics enclosure fans, pi and the 6hc on 5V and I have the main PSU that powers the rest
like it doesnt need a lot to run the 5V rail, unless you power RGB strips
if you switch the DC side you have to consider protections for inrush current and stuff
I could repurpose the 24v small psu to run some emergency red leds
i just kill the AC side including the AC heaters
imagine
no, I switch AC but after the 1st PSU
new box
#notdeadyet 
I’ve been thinking about this approach a lot
Just an off the shelf junction box or whatever it’s called
I have that approach lying around half finished
Love it though, the din rails are nice
it's been working too well to touch to be honest
Thats great🙏
yeah I think it should work just fine
just have to solve the air vents basically
some server fans
Need some extra scopecreepium?
after all this time I still haven't learned what catch-22 is
I need to print custom parts for the box, I need the box for the printer to print

on an unrelated note ASA parts finally started melting in the chamber
yea i wait for that on my K3
turns out the chamber temp sensor is not overly precise or badly placed, the hotend reports 10°C hotter when it gets just passively heated by the chamber.
first issue to show up is the stupid magnet falling out the toolhead for holding the probe
get some of these
wish I could get smco
I'm planning on going valvenator + klicky00 for final printer iteration
yea thats my plan already. i have to check if i have the opposing polarity ones for the one on the quickdraw already here
if you wanna get real fancy make a taper connection
no magnets just mechanical, have an ejector on the dock
sounds like a rabbit hole of overly complex mechanisms
So you mean its perfect?
im waiting for the recommendation to add a servo to actuate the ejector
how is that complex? just a regular taper lock
the ejector is the complex part
how will it then not cause issues when loading the probe?
sliding dock 
and there comes the complexity
thats the evolution of it down the line
we'll scopecreep as we go
i mean yea, we could add a PLC to control some actuators to load and unload the dock like the new bambu printer does with toolheads
the new bambu system is so stupid as well
yea im not sold on it working reliable after like 1k hours
they clearly just threw it out there seeing the indx hype
feels like that scene with the predator holding the spine and skull
I did a great job mimicking human nervous system with the wire management
tophat deleted as well, now I gotta figure out if I keep the panels as is or weld them somehow
Couldn’t find a good one with the predator so this has to suffice
i ove you have planned to run a fan that blows air over the 6HC, preverably in a way where it goes over the backside
plan was to have some fans on the left side blowing across and then drill vent holes in the right
ye plenty
To convert from Ethernet to USB? Smart
the usb is just power
it connects to my router via wifi and then I can access the duet
so I don't have to run the ethernet where the printer is
Oh, I see
Might have to do this for my Duet Maestros
I tried like 5 of these repeaters but most had burned in fw that I wasn't able to overwrite
this one just has a DHCP switch so I don't have to deal with dual nat
switch dhcp off, set static printer ip, connect to the wifi then I have wireless access
obligatory pcb nudes
so happy this one actually works
def looks more professional
I could've cut the hole for the SSRs a bit less crooked but it's fine
I might just entirely cut the middle section
worst case you can print a new cover
my contactor is 24v so I have to use a 5v psu to power the board and a 24v psu to power the contactor so I can switch on the main AC line and main 24v psu
I'm kinda stupid
thats annoying
gave me a funny idea to use some red emergency lights
main power goes off then the red light comes on
Get a whats-it-called tricolor light on top of the machine? A beacon?
I don't think tricolor, just plain red since that psu is pretty low power
I have some red leds to use up anyway
ah no, that'd be sweet but too complicated
Since when is that a concern?
you can make one with like a RGB Strip on the inside
since I have to put it back together and then get rid of it after printing some parts
🥲
This looks great
Sometimes “it didn’t explode” really is the best you can ask for
thanks 
recrimping everything to be molex sure is annoying

thats how my K3 started, until ive bumped the heaters and suddenly the board shutdown and kept bootlooping
crimping is as relaxing as spare terminals you have
we are so back
two out9 pins?
just noticed when trying to get the cpap up and running
need a 5v pwm pin
possible they are shared
just be aware that its still limited by the onboard 5V Regulator if its used
they do plan to reduce it to 1A in future revisions
probably also Probes, Paneldue and stuff
oh right, new paneldue so won't be needed
idk if I want a screen on this or no
probably nah
its nice as a backup for debugging
added a Paneldue on my Idex for that
then figured out i cant input the wifi credentials if needed
name is to long
so ive made another backup plan by making the SD Card reader on the paneldue useable
also yea on the 6HC V1.02 the 5V limit is 800mA
wait that might be risky
ish
I might have to power the ethernet adapter from the psu then
wait I have 1.01a
nvm that's fine
am I stupid or is there no 5v for the cpap pwm
Do you need a 5 V source or can low switched 5 V work?
5v source, the neopixel/bltouch port previously worked on the fly boards
but now I have it just 5v non pwm and the cpap still won't turn on
I have the fan connected to dotstar 5v (cpap pwm pin) and out 1 (cpap vin and gnd)
somethings fishy
bruh
I'm just stupid
of course it has no power if I don't plug it in
now it works and the servo port has 5v pwm
back double pwm for that sweet 0 to 100 range
pretty? no. works? barely. good enough? good enough.
Should have painted it
How? Again mechanically?
I don't think that's supposed to happen
I think you are right
I have a spare
but only one
do I dare run it on the 5v line and have the duet flyback take care of the VIN?
oh right... truck relays...
eh I trust the flyback on the duet
wait that's not gonna work is it
Which relays you have?
I meant the the flyback on the duet outputs is not gonna be enough
I still have the old truck relays
You can calculate 
don't trust it enough, better just wire up the old setup
I prefer the meatier CLANK anyway
Deadlock solved the mystery, the relays are 5v they just survived on 24v this long
You have external 5 V for the Duet, right?
yes
external 5v psu for the duet, a small 24v psu to activate the contactor, and the lrs 24v for the rest
all grounds connected
Just use the 5 V PSU for relays as well, saves you a PSU
atleast they failed open
it's magnetic so once the coil fused it went back to neutral position ye
celebrating the 4th dead sht36 as well, this time the thermistors read wack no matter what
who cursed me
the 6hc doesn't even need active cooling huh
yeah I have killed like 5 by now, I have a 9290 for my vz now
roborock going on the china printer
yeah even at like 4A it was running the drivers cool
was it the temps?
probably
Will need it if you tell it to fry your nema 17 with 4A of rms current

I keep it 2A for now
want to do some vfa comparisons and the 2209s were at 2A as well
I love the sound of 2160
Yeah
Are the motors dying?
they're slow cooking
Oh no not at all I have enough airflow on them so that even with air at 100C they don't cook, using sunon 40101vx that have 13 cfm and it keeps them cool, it is the impeller that starts to contact the housing and at one point when the chamber cools down it stays in contact with the housing and won't start spinning any more after that
The 9290 has a metal impeller and the bearings are all in metal not in any plastics so it won't have that issue, I might make a watercooling plate at the back which is in contact with the motor to be slm printed
@radiant kiln you have a thingiverse that you posted the clips to?
you mean the belt clips? no just here
ok
the VFA tower not looking promising so far

this might be harder to tune than expected
i do have somewhere a script for generating random movements with increasing accel
might be intresting since it covers diagonals too
yeah I have one with diags as well
needs a plugin for adxl tuning, hand might be too complicated
yea its a bit of a odd one. its doable but not easy
but the results are intresting anyways
gonna try the usb debugging method like Andy described on the forums
I like the sounds of it tho
where considering it but then again i would need to figure out a USB connection
started badly rippling now
hmm
no idea what that means in the context of phase stepping
could be to high scaling of accleration
top is phase stepping
yeah turns out you can't just turn it on and expect great results without tuning
@radiant kiln how did you setup the roborock on RRF?
mine doesn't seem to be working
same as usual
VIN and GND to heater port (high current out on 6hc), 5V to servo
I have relays I activate with a fan output to close the circuit and then PWM the VIN and Servo
I have the relay fan set to mimimum power 1
then just mapped all 3 to the same tool
I can send the actual config tomorrow
ah yeah right it is 5v...
that's why

M106 P3 C"Part fan enable" S0 H-1 L1 ; set fan 3 name and value. Thermostatic control is turned off
M950 F4 C"out2" Q50000 ; create fan 4 and set its frequency
M106 P4 C"Part fan VIN" S0 H-1 L0.18 B0.25 ; set fan 4 name and value. Thermostatic control is turned off
M950 F5 C"vfd" Q50000 ; create fan 5 and set its frequency
M106 P5 C"Part fan PWM" S0 H-1 L0.18 B0.25 ; set fan 5 name and value. Thermostatic control is turned off```
M563 P0 S"Extruder" D0 H1 F3:4:5 ; define tool 0
@pearl karma
Oh ok perfect, thank you!
this is so stupid
I mean it's not too bad conceptually, easily swappable wings so straightforward 6->9 mm belt conversion and simple live shaft in the future
as expected that little tab is useless
but I really wonder if I even need more than 2 points per side on the joints
could copy the archetype rigid mount washer
pain
Needs gas struts in over the center configuration
It's just 2 quick brackets and a gas strut from your friend's car
That's not over the center
it works
But over the center is cool
And having to home your tophat or having it crash down on power off?
it's not crashing down, it's controlled failing
look it took me like 1.5 years to add 2 hinges, I don't want to have plans a decade ahead for this printer
I was supposed to sell it already
but then printjobs kept showing up
No comment, mine is absolutely rebuilt and printing rn 

a printing vzbot
unicorns
Tbf I have ordered the parts but they are taking like 3 months to get here
I could technically rebuild parts of it enough to print but the electronics bay would be sketchy
I actually want to do some work on it today
spent 2 hour redoing the roborock integration CAD because this mount didn't fit
new CAD
yup that explains it
ngl sometimes its easy to just do a subtraction using the part you want to fit as a tool for that.
once you know what interfers just give the surfaces a little nudge and it should fit
yep, but I have to fit this inside a muffler housing so it's not a huge loss
like this would've been pretty tragic
cf is cheating
Cheating Fiber 
miscalculation
Use hammer
thanks, all credits to https://www.printables.com/model/1542275-wonsmart-ws7040-cpap-muffler-wip tho
I'll upload the remix after I tested it
post office holds some parts still
Nice
I haven’t opened this chat in a year and you’re still working on the printer, that’s awesome
thanks, yeah it's a neverending nightmare
just snapped the belt as well
thankfully I can just reduce the Y build volume to use a shorter section
about to print in 330x150
what kind of flow reduction does that cause
not enough for me to really care, still don't use it above 80% at max
I can test it with the bag and scale
but it's more than worth the noise offset
I think the scope is about to creep again
christmas got 9 mm belts and Jay cooked up a plugin for AWD sync

is it mono time?
love how this all started off with
I'll try to build it with the best price/performance in mind without going for the absolute cheapest parts


