#BASF ultrafuse filament help

1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

cedar trench
#

I'm having weird layer separations from prints and im not sure exactly what the issue is. im guessing because its being printed on a crappy ender not in an enclosed box at all, but the specs say that it should be able to print like this. Any tips/tricks/suggestions?

20230518_162019.jpg
hearty craterBOT
#
AI Help

Weird layer separations can be caused by various factors such as incorrect slicing settings, incorrect bed leveling, inadequate cooling, or overheating of the printer. Here are some tips and suggestions you can try to resolve your issue:

  1. Check and adjust the bed level. The first layer is very important in ensuring that the print adheres to the bed and that the subsequent layers will be uniform.

  2. Check and adjust the slicer settings. The slicer settings determine the quality of the print. Ensure that the flow rate, print speed, and layer height are adequately set.

  3. Ensure that the filament is of good quality and is properly loaded.

  4. Check the cooling system. If the cooling system is inadequate, the filament may not cool properly, leading to layer separations. Ensure that the cooling fan is properly positioned and working.

  5. Consider installing an enclosure around your printer. Enclosures help to maintain an optimal temperature and prevent drafts that can cause temperat...

WARNING: This response is AI generated and may contain errors.
cedar trench
#

ender 3 v2 with cura, no mods rn just a simple print

slim whale
#

what ultrafuse are you printing, there is quite a heavy selection

#

also do you have an all metal hotend

#

temperatures and other parameters would also help

cedar trench
#

17-4

#

yes hardened steel hot end

slim whale
#

thats just the nozzle

#

not the entire hotend

cedar trench
#

for last print in picture bed is 100C, nozzle 250C, speed was 30mm/s

slim whale
#

250 is way to hot for a PTFE lined hotend to start with

cedar trench
hearty craterBOT
#

PTFE Temperatures
TL;DR: Do not heat PTFE above 230C for long periods of time, and never above 260C.

Polytetrafluoroethylene, a.k.a. PTFE, a.k.a. Teflon, is a polymer renowned for its extremely low coefficient of friction. It is used in many industrial and domestic applications, most famously in non-stick pans. Relevant to us, PTFE is used as Bowden tubing and heatbreak liners in 3D printers for ease of filament transport. This places the polymer in close contact with areas where high temperatures are routinely encountered.

PTFE will begin to pyrolyze at 220 degrees centigrade. It will begin off-gassing at significant amounts at 240. At 260, this process will have accelerated to the point where the structural integrity of your tubing will have been compromised. Most contemporary citations focus not on the physical decomposition of PTFE but on the health effects of byproducts used in its manufacture. However one major health risk is directly attributable to PTFE pyrolysis: Polymer fume fever.

Polymer fume fever, or colloquially "Teflon flu", is a condition caused by overexposure to fumes (over the course of 4-8 hours) caused by the decomposition of PTFE. The advanced respiratory metabolism of birds make them particularly sensitive to polymer fumes, which leaves them at high risk of death in environments where such fumes are prevalent. Further reading is linked below.

Further reading

?ptfetemps requested by: Superbrain8#4020
slim whale
#

see above

#

at 250 the PTFE tube will degrade, release harmful fumes and shrink in diameter, causing issues

cedar trench
#

thats just the bowden tube you mean correct? what type should I replace it with?

slim whale
#

you replace the heatbreak to be all metal

#

?hotend

hearty craterBOT
cedar trench
#

is it not all metal currently

slim whale
#

yea that could be part of your issue

#

would fix this before keeping printing at unsafe temperatures

#

also possible that you have to replace the thermistor too, they are commonly also PTFE insulated, having the same flaw

#

also with your Ultrafuse print.
is the filament dry?
did you tuned esteps and flow?
are you aware of what ultrafuse is?

cedar trench
slim whale
#

a new all metal heatbreak should be around 7$

#

just make sure to get the correct type

#

there are seller with really weird names and descriptions

cedar trench
slim whale
#

e steps means extruder steps

#

this is a value that determines how many steps the extruder stepper has to do to extrude x amount of filament

#

its a common value that has to be calibrated on new printer or when changing the extruder

#

also filament can arrive wet from factory, yours might be still dry, since a common sign for wet filament is excessive stringing

cedar trench
#

ohh I haven't checked that but I can once I replace the heat break to see if its extruding the proper amount though it doesn't seem thats the issue from the quality of the part produced

cedar trench
slim whale
#

you have there some underextrusion in your top layer, can be caused by this

#

could be also not enough top / bottom layers

cedar trench
#

yeah I think I only had 3 top layers wasn't enough

slim whale
#

tuning esteps wont hurt tho

cedar trench
#

will do