I would like to know if you have any tips on how to make my printer a bit more accourate
Screws tightened
PID tuning
E steps calibrated
Linear advancing
Set jerk from 10 to 7
Tried playing with extrusion rate
XYZ steps calibrated
Result is what you see on the photo, although it is indeed upgrade from what it used to be, i would like to know how to get rid of the round edges and those "artifacts" next to the letters on the cube
#How to get rid of these artifacts and have more accourate prints
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AI Help
Based on the information you provided, it sounds like you have already taken a lot of the necessary steps to improve the accuracy of your 3D printer. However, there are a few additional things you can try to get rid of the round edges and artifacts next to the letters on the cube:
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Check your nozzle and extruder: If your nozzle or extruder is worn out or dirty, it could affect the accuracy of your printer. Try cleaning your nozzle and extruder or replacing them if necessary.
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Use thinner layers: Printing with thinner layers can help improve the accuracy of your printer, especially when printing small details. Try reducing your layer height to see if that makes a difference.
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Adjust your print speed: Printing too fast can also affect the accuracy of your printer. Try slowing down your print speed to see if that helps eliminate the artifacts.
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Calibrate your bed: A level and well-calibrated bed is essential for good adhesion and accurate printing. Make sure your bed is lev...
WARNING: This response is AI generated and may contain errors.
Did you calibrate your flow?
I also wouldnt adjust your xyz steps most people are just doing it comepletley wrong
yes i meant flow by extrusion rate
i mean it is dimensionaly accourate
E-Steps is not flow
it’s flowing differently at slower speed than at higher
And you should adjust your e-steps first andan do flow
Had this issue before
Just used klipper for the pressure advance but if ur marlinated rn it’s called linear advance
i did both, e steps first
then i tried to play with this and didnt help much
yes i did the linear advance too
maybe u did it weird
wait
ur filament is being too fluid
play with flow in the slicer
wait no now I’m confused
it looks fine looking at it again
i think it just has cleaner corners when it wasn’t already turning
check for wobble tbh
aight i may have an idea
just have to wait until the cube prints again
i think i made M900 command wrong
if so the linear advancing didnt work
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Did you do your Linear Advance test with the same speeds you used to print this? also did you tune acceleration? maybe you should also look into input shaping for marlin
With Acceleration, Linear Advance and Input Shaping, be sure to do the tests at your normal print speed
i didnt try input shaping and acceleration tbh
More often than not Acceleration is best at stock values, input shaping though can remove little artifacts you have
when it comes to the rounded corners though, you gotta tune Linear Advance right, be sure to use your normal speed and printing temperature
are these values acceptable ?
acceleration is turned of if i understand correctly
I can't read that 😅 and I don't use Prusa Slicer to know what it is by it's position
Your speeds are good, they are actually on the slower side so you can go faster and expect relatively same quality, only thing I'd comment on is support speed, I tend to print that slow (Less or equal to 30) so it doesn't fall apart
i have pretty strong supports.... way too strong for my liking sometimes 😅
tried to set jerk down to 5 and result is not very different
I don't have much experience with Jerk settings, I've mostly used Junction Deviation instead
also this should be correct syntax yes ?
some1 told me its better to have separate K value for every filament since it may vary
i mean i just ran g code for determining K value, decided that straightest line is the one with 0.6 value and that was it
how often do you change belts on your machine ?
Depends on the quality of it I guess? I haven't had to change the belts on my printers yet other than 1 that snapped on me
I have ordered some Gates belts that should be arriving in a week though and I will replace the belts on all my printers, but till this point, I haven't had to replace to do them being worn out or something
How long have you had your printer?
over a year now i guess
wasnt printing for a while though
didnt find anything wobbling thoug
Do you have belt tensioners?
Maybe someone with more experience with belts can comment on that, mine are usually tighter than that and I personally feel as if its not possible to tighten it enough before assembling, as it won't be possible to assemble it if its too tight (because of the way idlers and pulleys are designed with a lip), but I don't really have "proof" for that other than it makes sense to me
Also, since you are using Linear Advance, I assume you are using a TMC driver?
stock ones
not sure what those are
but i wanted to buy TMC2208 iirc
though i heard that they dont like linear advancing so im not sure ill buy these
Stock board? I'm not 100% sure but isn't that A4988?
Go with TMC2209 then
no idea honestly
will do ^^
Is it custom firmware that you have running on it?
ill check
Anycubic i3 Mega / Mega-S Marlin 1.1.9 by davidramiro
This is a custom version of the Marlin Firmware for the i3 Mega/Mega-S, gratefully based on derhopp's repo with his remarkable efforts to get the Anycubic TFT screen to work with the latest versions of Marlin.
Since Thingiverse is currently undergoing some design changes, the full instr...
form here
Marlin-Ai3M-v1.4.6-stock one....got me rid of that annoying beeping noises😅
You'd have to ask in #hardware to be 100% sure but IIRC TMC2208 used to not work with Linear Advance (when Stealthchop is Enabled?) in older versions of Marlin, but that has been solved, and it is best to use Spreadcycle on extruder rather than Stealthchop with TMC2208
i heard something like that too but im not going to risk it if there is another safer option
I currently am running Linear Advance on TMC2208 (in standalone mode) with linear advance
but I do recommend just going with the TMC2209
yeah once i decide i have money for upgrades&stuff i will swap those
But if your board doesn't have "plug in" steppers than you'd have to get a whole near board alltogether
I always hated the beeping sounds on printers 
MORE PRINT LESS BEEP 
I'm honestly not sure if yours is TMC2208 or A4988, seems theres versions for both but idk which is in your printer
idk how well Linear Advanced works on A4988
I personally prefer Linear Advance towers since you can see how it looks on an actual print
Yea, I prefer them over the ones from marlin cause its hard to see and sometimes I had issues with weird bulges that wouldn't go away no matter what value I used
You have to do the test multiple times
Watch this (you can skip to 7:30)
Linear advance is a firmware feature that controls the timing of the extruder separate to the other axes, with a focus on managing pressure inside the nozzle. The result should be more consistent extrusion, especially around corners and other changes of direction. You should also be able to print faster without the quality dropping off so much.
...
@unkempt hearth that should completely solve your problem, assuming Linear Advance is supported by your steppers