#Coconut’s Cocobustor
1 messages · Page 3 of 1
alright
no
im just saying watterotts are mediocre
You are
Because you are not using the proper things in your config
in my head nothing is adding up
.110 is generally used on 2209s cuz it maxes the run current at 1.78 which is within spec for 2209
.075 is generally used on 5160 stepsticks cuz it limits to round 3.2A
.033 is on externals usually because it limits to higher like afaik 6A
stepsticks handle 3A max, my board is rated for 2A, how can i be drawing 4A?
youre probably not
driver is likely limiting it to the driver max but klipper is just confused af
thats what im trying to say
board is porbably just not ideal past 2A
what rsense are you running on what drivers lmfao
0.35, thats what came stock in tycho config
watterott 5160s
higher the sense resistor, higher the max allowable current but lower the precision at low currents
my guy ur running ur motors on 3.2ish amps
klipper is just confused cuz you have wildly wrong sense resistro
not even like
cloise to correct
for the help 
ill change it
oh fuck it is at 0.075
i just remembered wrong
i think 0.035 is for externals?
.033
close enough 
.033 yeah usually
sense resistor effectively just regulates current and makes sure klipper and the stepstick are in agreement
well in that case, they are overheating for a seperate reason
how many amps you running
mine didnt overheat on 2.5A without heatsinks or cooling
Prolly because of the speed of mosfet switching
tmc ovetemp
But, I mean there is nothing in my wiring that can be wrong it is the connector that can only go in the proper way, the + (red) the - (blue) and the 4 stepper wires, even if those are fucked it will not burn the drivers
was it tmc overtemp or was it a load of nonsense and then tmc overtemp
dis what i mean by a load of garbage + overtemp
do they overheat running lower speeds at same or higher current?
didnt test
i think ive only gone to 1.6m/s on watterotts
they seem fine at 600mm/s
ive tried 2.5m/s lol
i didnt do that for long when i was testing 2.6
the 2004s have so much inertia to torque ratio
The mellow 5160's are waaay worse in terms of temperature, they absolutely NEED active cooling or they go overtemp
its crazy
yea is kinda unfortunate
It's very expected tho
could just be like you said with the switching rate
mmhm
Also properly specced and qyality ones
mhm
im running 128ms and too
mellow is properly specced and “quality”
Lol no
they are just different efficiencies
yeah i changed that bit 😅
Mellow electronics are the furthest thing from quality
better than btt
Eh
depends
Debatable
the btt 5160s are shit
Which ones?
do you want a board that catches fire during firmware flashing or catches fire randomly
too many people compare $10 btts to $25 watterotts
you get what you pay for tbh
my 5160s are semi actively cooled
with a bit of airflow they can stay under 50c
without it it goes to hell
im gonna measure pulses with an oscilloscope soon though, i have a sneaking suspicion that somethings wrong
ill eventually swap some of my watterotts back into my trident and see if i can managed 2m/s w out problems
failure mode is odd
yeah 2m/s is pretty easy on bigger printers
i just dont think that watterott is day/night
theyre mainly reliably not crap
yeah
btt were reliably meh
my big5160s are just random lil mfs that have given me about 12 different errors
I've done 2m/s on my vz with my cursed setup, I don't see why you couldn't
i can also do 200k but 205k and it shats its pants
oh i can
although tbf my trident is heavy af
my entire moved mass is under 180 grams lol
but 2004s suck for this
my moving mass is around 1kg
yeah but speedies
youre not just running out of mcu and its dying weird?
no
2k 128ms on 4 motors is tight
i have a blackpill
yea thats tight
I might be popping the mcu off the mellow board and onto the corevus once alpha testing is finished
this failure mode is rotor lagging behind
mcu would throw a klipper error
you can see it sometimes catches up but gets worse
curious to see is results though
Get some hollow 8mm shaft steppers to replace them
Sir that’s just skipping steps
Yeah
yeah, but its skipping because of the rotor
you can hear it
It’s skipping because it’s out of torque
That’s what skips sound like at stupid speeds
It's I think 3A or 3.1
Yeah 3.1 seems resonable
new updates pushed

So it doesn't melt?
wdym
Curious why u added a couple for m4
no
Did u break a motor with it....
thicc
new stuff
hiwin xy, cnc rail
and cpap finally
currently revising all my parts
That extruder still looks ridiculous to me
so large on such a tiny printer lol
Haha yeah
Whered you find this?
I was gonna work with siboor initially but i asked formbot
ask ldo 
jokes aside
full kit?
yep
oooh nice
Commetss
wiggly
What the heck u doing to this pour creature now
please don't bend your bowden tube that sharply 😔
looks nice but defo needs a new revision
Don't burn down ur house just yet
Who said I won't come to ur house and remove it

that's amateur... I've been here since the beginning, I'm in your walls
its pretty hot here
mind turning on the ac
thanks coco
ok uh
im now in ur closet
bro you have no variaty
whys there damn spools of filament in here
and like random stuff
paint the motor red
to make it faster
Yes
Put "NASCAR" in letters for extra turbo boost
mm ac mains
🔥🔥🔥
fire
@knotty estuary what is your max accel you've done at 2m/s?
40k
what steppers? 2001s?
theres 2001s?
2004s
cool
idk if 2804's or 2504's would be better for you
just run 32ms with interpolation lol
do you run interpolation?
I think I am running 256 ms rn
or it might still be at 16 idk
128 interpolated
does it even increase performance or is it just for accuracy?
It does
Well fuck lol
I mean if you built it to break records sure 3k is fine
Its not sane imho but I can see why one would full send the budget
term of build volume its a teacup as my other reference to that
I could not print hardly anything on that except brackets and minatures most likely
The stuff I build requires full volume
I don't like gluing parts togethere if I can help it
and I got a 3D printer mostly for making usable parts and also making cases and possibly assist with drone parts + gliders other RC things
I see
Parts for building Vorons lol
thats its use case haha
half the frame built in like 2hres
I still want to see it actually print that fast
a lot of core xys can move fast
but can it print faster than 300mms
yeah ok
that thing isnt fucking around lol
Its a fun exprimental v0 that is for sure
I can't justify it in my mind but I mean it exists
so congragts job well done
haha
I am fairly content with average speeds
more conered on quality of parts
and volume
You break a record with that v0?>
I would expect thats why it exists
well i have a 1/10th of my fans on and its open air abs
i trigger trp if i enable more fan
its undergoing upgrades now
its faster than the100?
Means nothing to me
see that is why I said I not equipped to go full send on DIY
from something totally unique
with no buyable part list
lol
packed for me
start with a "normal" voron kit
I could but I have this 50ft wing span glider project im working on
with lidar
and solar
Coz I am tired of using a controller lol
I want to use the PC and throw this fucker off a roof
and let it go across two cities
180+km apart
LOL
if i started with a kit i would legit be left with frame and screws lol
because you are an odd one 
maybe not even frame
coz it would fall apart
or you would take all shit out of it
I mean tbh just give me th9e frame too
I really could probably do my own build
with a frame
and PSU and board
Its not that much mroe cplicate
only rail speed holes
i did that
if u give me the the belts frame and all that shit
to make it move
I can figure out the hotend and drivers and toher shit
myself
and motors
thats the hard bit imo
I just cant be arsed with the moving part
I want the frame there and me just source the actual head
and guts
that run it
If I can have that I can build a core XY
I just do't know really know much about the movement train of them yet
to really build it scratch
and figure out the frame and rails and belts
and the whole motion of frame carriage
build a trident
ez way to learn imo
many docs on that
worth the $
I am open to it as I do want a CoreXY that cartesian I have now is leaving me with a lot to be desired
I just cant justify more $ into a 2019 cartisian printer
that we shall say retrofitted
with klipper and modern parts
and a few nice to haves of modern frames
That was my first printer its been a fun project I still re design it from time to time
But sinking money outside of stuff I can 3d print and and build off from is not really in the cards for that printer
Perhaps a better enclosure the guts moved outside is about as best it will get
CoreXY are more valuable to actually spend $ on making incrasingly better
is the gist of what I see over the internet and here
is that what u actually did
oh while im in here..
Is it worth putting fans on back of my motors ?
Or does it do fuck all
no haha
i just heatsink my motors because i run them hard
That is what I am asking since I need to put my board into an enclosure with a 120mm fan anyway
I was thinking how muych harder would it be to use some of the 12 fucking fan ports
to add fans to the motors
wagos
is it even worth putting a fan
on the tool board and the X motor
and maybe the Y motor
its cartesian
its not going too hard
depends
but would it actively do anything worth it coz I have HEAPS of normal sized fans
enough to actually do it
i run my components at their max rating so thats why they are there
I am using .900 on the X
and .500 on the Z
well under max ratings
extruder is 1.0 I tink
let me check
yeah
I am not really asking a lot from them
Also not sure if these values are sane
I think they are OK but not sure if could be improved or how so
Toolboards driver has a little heatsink
all of them have heatsinks
inc the CB1 computer has a heatsink
wait OMG
I am in a project channel
so sorry bro thought I was in the regular spam channel
wait thats all u need from uart?
damn
im stupid
Yeap
Unless you want to use diag pin for sensorless homing
stealthchop ###### you can search from a browser and get info even on Klipper has info on this different numbers for the stealthchop mode the most common is the one I use
@tacit oyster Setting "spreadCycle" vs "stealthChop" Mode¶
By default, Klipper places the TMC drivers in "spreadCycle" mode. If the driver supports "stealthChop" then it can be enabled by adding stealthchop_threshold: 999999 to the TMC config section.In general, spreadCycle mode provides greater torque and greater positional accuracy than stealthChop mode. However, stealthChop mode may produce significantly lower audible noise on some printers.
Tests comparing modes have shown an increased "positional lag" of around 75% of a full-step during constant velocity moves when using stealthChop mode (for example, on a printer with 40mm rotation_distance and 200 steps_per_rotation, position deviation of constant speed moves increased by ~0.150mm). However, this "delay in obtaining the requested position" may not manifest as a significant print defect and one may prefer the quieter behavior of stealthChop mode.
It is recommended to always use "spreadCycle" mode (by not specifying stealthchop_threshold) or to always use "stealthChop" mode (by setting stealthchop_threshold to 999999). Unfortunately, the drivers often produce poor and confusing results if the mode changes while the motor is at a non-zero velocity.
kk
I have yet to try using without quiet motors, I suspect non stealthchop is needed for faster tight tolerences
emf
I think dirt build up would be a worse issue
probably not good either
i know it was a joke 
What happened to the tridex
we dont ask about the tridex
what is this?
cpap blower but ultra strong
turbofan?

9290?
I got a better one for you: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32978463998.html
well fuck
wish i knew about this
lmao
Cpap driver
What actually happened with tridex
we dont talk about it
I want to though
we dont talk about tridex
seriously though, its on hold
its waiting for v0's old motors which are currently in the machine
Its sls time boys
Yoooo
ICS motor mounts when?
Oh you can't get laser cut parts, forgot about that
why no laser cut?
sourcing makes it hard?
oh
fan duct
oh lol
mm new toolhead
nice
you know youre pushing for speed when you put holes in your linear rails and blocks
That's way too restrictive fyi
Probably won't even get half of what you could
But it does look great
Please don't give him the idea of putting holes in the blocks, he might actually do it
No plz
I think hollowing rails would too
Speed holes often are actually anti-rigidity holes
By not removing material where the balls slide it is mostly fine
Ig
Also, it is a speed benchy machine, he doesn't care that much about quality
His speed benchys will still look like shit
I don't get it either but it is still impressive
yooo
nah i care
its good for is
better
it doesnt
and it aint even hollow where the raceways are
for all intensive purposes its non structual parts
What orientation lol

it can print unsupported it just has low build area contact
so why not
¯_(ツ)_/¯

Epyc
ha
wet
lol
Fastest benchy ?
iirc hes aiming for sub 2 benchy
@knotty estuary
sub 2 minute time!!??
the side fins help actually
That's bigger than ur bed lmao
I am asking how fast does it print one now
i need this part cooling for my printer
idk a 5015 is just not enough
i was thinking liquid nitrogen, but this seems more doable
im 99% sure it is lol
and ln2 is not feasible in the slightest
like even at 200mm/s i can see some cooling issues
i tried a dual 5015 duct but not sure why the fans spin slower than just a single one
and thus worse cooling
idk is it the mosfet thats limiting the current?
was it just toasting under the cover?
@knotty estuary yk if siboor will ever release their v0.2 thing?
Ask them tomorrow
ye
ln2 but its the boiled cloud not the liquid
or maybe a fine mist
carburetor
@knotty estuary
oh dame
at that point just let the toolhead float
lol no, the tension GT2 belts are on traditional 3D printers is so low it will probably just sag lmao.
double shear it and tension to gates spec
doenst prevent the fact that belts are inherintelly elastic.
magnets!
no actually, input shaper might just be able to compensate.
@knotty estuary ideaaaa timeeeee!
gates spec for precision movements to be specific!

"So today I felt like wasting money..."
and rails

nice
ill be swapping on 2504s on the 8th
🔫 do it fast
@knotty estuary what material do you normally print these parts out for the printer frame and hotend etc
Asa
I just thinking is ASA good enough or should I switch to something better
ah
thanks
Dope
but I printed it sub par heating wise
I imagine strength is not peak
due my chamber temp does not really exceed 50c
I can't anyway or the toolboard will explode
I am planning on perhaps rectifying this situation
as I printed an ABS control box
and I have slowely in my mind been planning out some way to go to local hardware and pick up steel faraming for making box frames
and grab some high accrylic
Getting rid of can?
and just begin marking a custom box with proper cut outs for fume mitigation and and under tray
If I want to print ABS at proper strenght I have n choice
not unless I can actively cool the CAN board
in a way it stays out of the pure hot air
60c can kill it
ambiant heat
Some people said it was useless when I chmaber but I disafree
see I can have the control box
and the EBB
the EBB is just an extentsion of the contorl board
making cabling less of a hassle
Should Iw ant to say mount the EBB to outside of chamber up on the wall of it or something
That way I only I can wire wire a loom from closer to the printer
Honestly I am not sure
I might just ditch it
yeah I need something that will do a similar job as CAN
but just not have a MCU lol
that does nto care about heat
pretty sure I can get thsoe and thy just plug into a ribbon
then I can just map GPIO pins on my manta M8P
and send thru a ribbon connector or something
I dunno I have just been thinking about making a better chamber
so I have one as thenI have choices
I can move the electornics out of printer air
I can put in proper controlled heating and ducting
and filter
and if I ever wanted to re use it I can
on say a voron
etc
It wont be super expensive either
about cost of a beginner printer to prob put together
Yeah pcb harness
Like stealthburner pcb
