#Quality/Speed/Time Expectations

1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

rugged berry
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Hello, so I’m new in this 3d printing world and reading among the various boards, discords and YouTube videos I see a lot of super fast printing, I see also a lot of quality prints.

I’m modding my used little printer to achieve more speed than it has and try to maintain quality, it’s a slippery slope I know, what I’m wondering is that however I try to tweak the settings of the slicer to get a medium sized 200x200x200 tops decorated object, think a geometric vase, or a complex engineering part, the ball park I get the prints in the time of 1,5/3 hours.

I’m not sure what realistic times for normal users are in this ballpark or if I’m actually looking at a “mirage”.

also as a side question, in process thanks to this place I learned a lot, tough the road still is long, when do you decide that upgrading has to stop ? I could change a piece here and a pice there but will I be getting effectively a better printer ?

Thank you all 🙂

shadow stoneBOT
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Ai Help

The printing speed depends on several factors, including the size of the object, the design complexity, the chosen layer height, and the printing technology. It is possible to get faster prints with good quality, but usually, it requires a balance between the speed and quality. It is best to experiment with different settings and see what works best for your printer.

Regarding upgrading your printer, it ultimately depends on your goals and needs for your prints. Upgrading your printer can improve your overall printing experience and capabilities, but it can also be expensive and time-consuming. A good rule of thumb is to upgrade when you have a specific need or goal in mind for your prints, rather than constantly upgrading without a clear purpose.

hoary igloo
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Yoo wtf that ai is sick

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And correct

rugged berry
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In fact it is

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But what I’m missing is … a .. I don’t know .. reference scale ?

toxic hearth
rugged berry
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I’m not a native English speaker .. so it might have been gobbled up

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Realistically, how long does it take YOU guys to print a 0.2 layer benchie per say

toxic hearth
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A vzbot is a high speed printer

hoary igloo
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40-50 minutes on my sv06 with speedboat rules

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Can probably go a tint bit faster

toxic hearth
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But I have a fast printer

hoary igloo
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But slow thing

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Yeah vzbot go brrrttt

toxic hearth
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Most printers it's more like 40-60 minutes for quality

rugged berry
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Ok me it’s 1 hour

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And it comes out not good

toxic hearth
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Photo?

rugged berry
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I’m in the ballpark of like 2 hours

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I didn’t print the quality one but

toxic hearth
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If you have a problem then just slowing down won't help with quality

rugged berry
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This was before I fixed some stuff

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But it doesn’t get that much better

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But it’s not about the print it self

toxic hearth
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Why didn't it complete

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The benchy

rugged berry
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Layer shift I stopped it

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It’s late now

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I can print a couple tomorrow

toxic hearth
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What are your slicer settings like

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Speeds and fan speeds

rugged berry
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O don’t recall these

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But

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Gimme a sec

toxic hearth
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You can just screenshot

rugged berry
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This is a specific problem tough

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This is the fastest I had the courage to push this printer

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I’m not sure how I can share my settings

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If you use cura I guess there’s a file for the profiles ?

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This setting does walls and most stuff at 200, travel is 300

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This printer originally does 50

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I can get a clean result at 150 more or less

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Should I call it a day and move to a new printer as I am of now ?

toxic hearth
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I thought this was 1 hour?

rugged berry
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No this was 10 minutes

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2 hours

toxic hearth
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Then you have nothing to complain about

rugged berry
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Not sure but I think 1 and a half

rugged berry
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Would this be correct ?

toxic hearth
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Yes

rugged berry
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Oh THANK YOU 🙂

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This is what I was looking for, i ordered an upgraded carriage, and that’s gonna be it for this. I’ll finish the tuning , lower the speed and look for a new printer 🙂

violet obsidian
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if you want something printed the size of your fist...that's about 3-4 hours

broken zinc
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@rugged berry for reference, this is a 28min benchy according to benchy rules on a bed slinger sitting on a wobbly table.

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the main ways to increase speed are

  • squareness of the build
  • rigidity of the build
  • lightness of the moving parts
  • acceleration of the print head
    -ability of the extrusion system (filament feeder, hotend) to push plastic
  • thermal control (heating/cooling)
  • pressure control on the filament (retraction, pressure advance)
  • ringing compensation (i.e., Input shaping)
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this is a non inclusive list, but roughly in the order required to make for a stable and fast printer.

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and yes, some of these things require compromise.

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direct extrusion gives better retract, but increases print head weight. Lighter often means less rigidity,

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and so on

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also, dont be fooled by "100mm^3/s flow" claims by high powered hotends. You will likely need to use large orifice nozzles (1mm) to achieve these flow rates. On a typical 0.4/0.5 nozzle you will top out at 50-65 depending on material

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And InputShaping as the current EABA to increase top acceleration will cause rounded corners

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also

shadow stoneBOT
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Upgrades
As with many other hobbies, with 3D printing it may often feel tempting to upgrade your equipment. Many people do so simply because they have heard of nicer components and wish to upgrade for the sake of upgrading.

With 3D printing more than most, it’s especially important to carefully consider the purpose of an upgrade and its potential consequences. Many of the common upgrades that owners perform have extremely limited benefits for the specific user or use case, and some can even be downright detrimental. An example of this would be a user upgrading to an all-metal hotend if they only print PLA and only intend to ever print PLA: PTFE-lined hotends tend to be more reliable for PLA printing than their all-metal counterparts. Many other situations exist where even if an upgrade has no detrimental effects, it also has negligible, if any, benefits – for example, upgrading to linear rails on a Prusa i3 MK3.

Furthermore, without sufficient knowledge or experience, any change a user makes to a printer can negatively affect its ease of use or its reliability. An upgrade to a 32-bit board may force the user to reconfigure and recompile a firmware from scratch, rather than use one of the existing configurations created by more experienced users. A change to the hotend and extruder configuration may call upon the user to design a new extruder carriage from scratch. None of these are insurmountable challenges given enough experience and knowledge, but new printer owners likely will not be at that level. Forcing them to perform these in-depth, technical procedures before they’re ready and with limited guidance could prove detrimental to the printer’s reliability and ease of use.

For these reasons it is strongly recommended that users do not upgrade their printers simply for the sake of upgrading their printers. Instead, upgrades should have a clear and definite purpose.

broken zinc
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i.e., sure you can be like me and spend hundreds of hours and a higher amount of money on mods making a printer better. Thats fun if you are into it.

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but it may be simpler to save up for a better printer (-:

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For an Anet A8 for example, no amount of modding will increase the printers ability to print as long as you stick with the acrylics frame.

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and rebuilding it onto another frame is quite the effort.

rugged berry
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@broken zinc oh thank you so much about that wonderful Post !, that will give me a lot of stuff to look into, thank you very much !

broken zinc
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thanks, I obviously forgot to mention stable platform to put the machine on.

rugged berry
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These two parts took Left one 30 mins, right one 20, the top is a bit overextruded, but I’m adjusting, this totally acceptable right ? I’m trying to understand if I got the “time metering” right 🙂

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@broken zinc about the base I added some padding and that seemed to help quite a lot

broken zinc
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its a bit out of focus, so hard to say. Top should be smoother though, but that's not necessarily a speed issue.

rugged berry
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I think that once I’ve cleaned the flow up this is totally ok for a functional part

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Tomorrow I’m gonna try a benchie

broken zinc
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Oh, I would likely use it like it is.

rugged berry
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Oh yes i will 🙂

shadow stoneBOT
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