Hmmm thats a tough one yeah. I do feel like all the modding stuff could be consolidated a bit to save repeating and pinning info in other channels daily. As an example you could group up rocket-league, osu_ and game_talk into a new Games group with each as a sub channel, and tech_talk, lekker_switch, modding, under a single group. I dunno just spouting off
#60he community modding
1 messages · Page 13 of 1
So maybe not less channels but less groups thats are more defined and consolidated. Ill see a user post in wooting_60he and I_have_my_wooting_keyboard with the same question
is it even necessary to have separate channels for the 60he modding and the two he modding?
Probably not and maybe not even for the osu pad, so in theory you could combine them if channel qty is a concern, or yeah you could just make a Wooting_Moddding single channel
But you also dont want to exclude anyone (including those pesky two he users)
Taking all feedback. Good and bad 😄
I want this now.. I support HIBI
i just got my wooting60... its definitely fast, but from a mech keyboard background, it definitely needs some work for a better typing experience, haven't done any gaming yet
stabs surprisingly feel really good though
the keys have a bit too much wobble, and plasticky sound to them
Sounds like its time for a lube job, case swap and keycap upgrade!
Tirade making a business out here lmao
Would buy if it had more color options
Seems like a really good case. Are there any sound tests that have been uploaded or just imgs?
✨
Lmao
matching colour scheme is really cool, black contrasts well with the white case too
Yea and it makes the leds appear more vibrant
really impressed with the software
yeah there's really no comparison with other companies
wootility 10/10, I do wish wootomation was built-in though
is there a easy mod for the backplate?
I think some ppl have gotten custom plates made
yea it'll be easier if i can just order it one somewhere, not sure of any cheap CNC sites
i think most of what i dislike about the sound is the backplate ping
@simple panther nah, Im tapped out, barely have anything left. Just here to help like always.
I was looking at those keycaps myself, they look pretty clean!
Yup ^^ If you don't look too much at the sides of the keycaps where the print streches out, its pretty nice
Does it sound good?
Finally got around to testing the silicone mod on a single switch. G is default, H is modded
Going to try and put a tiny layer on the bottom of the stem as well to see if I can dampen the bottom out as well
Less wobble sound when the switch comes back up
What latex did you get? https://scarff.id.au/blog/2020/silenced-kailh-speed-copper-switches/ this guy recommends Permatex Ultra Blue silicone gasket maker instead of latex (apparently latex can interact with the oil in lube). It made a decent dent in sound of you watch my video above
I really like Kaihua's Kailh Speed Copper mechanical keyboard switches because of their shallow, tactile and light activation feel. However, I don't like their noisy upstroke. Here's how I modded my switches to make them quiet. First I added silicone O-rings to the keycaps to silence the bottom-out. Although the squishy feel isn't great, I … Con...
SMIFFYS ACCESSOIRES - Egal ob eine Perücke die Ihr Kostüm perfekt macht, Dekorationen zu den verschiedensten Anlässen, Masken - von elegant bis gruselig, Schminke um Sie in jemand anderen zu verwandeln, Strumpfhosen und halterlose Strümpfe in den verschiedensten Designs, Handschuhe, Requisiten un...
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Permatex-230-81160-Silicone-Gasket-Maker/dp/B0002UEN1A found this instead but idk if i wanna try more with the latex stuff
Or I guess maybe it’s less important which one and more important how you applied it
made sure to do it like it was shown in one of those albums, enough for it to have surface tension show properly
The gasket maker is pretty thick which makes it easier to work with
should i try this stuff instead?
Like it’s spreadable lol. The link I sent show a tiny bead of it on the head of a screwdriver
Try and find the “ultra blue” stuff
I think they have different rigidities
german amazon only has ultra grey/ultra black
and the ultra black one is 60 fucking EUR lmfao
ultra grey is a bit cheaper
9 EUR
"Permatex Ultra Black retains high flexibility and oil resistant properties through use of a patented adhesion system"
Yeah I’m not sure what the differences are between the colors
Oh apparently blue is 30A of hardness vs >45A for gray. Idk about black haha
ah, i see
yeah probably want to try to go for blue then
i'd guess that if the material is harder, the clack will still be loud
Yeah he originally tried some other silicone but it didn’t sue anything cuz it was too thin and hard
Also if you don’t have one, get a super small flathead (2.5mm width). Tiny bead on that allows you to apply it pretty evenly and also shape it a bit
tried something else
wanted to see if the lekker switches fit into the bakeneko's fr4 plate
...they do.
so out of sheer interest, i lubed a switch somewhat liberally (not to the point of sluggishness, but more than i'd normally use and i put special care to the top housing)
...bad upstroke noise is gone. GONE.
as such: i now require an fr4 plate for the wooting

i put the same lubed switch into the stock assembly and the upstroke noise returned
so yeah. safe to say it's the plate
i wonder if fr4 is magnetic tho and could mess with the sensors
It's too flexible
ah, so it'd cause inaccurate inputs?
Mhmm. That's why we use steel.
i see
that is a price i am willing to pay. 
understandable though
though i wonder, by how much does it make it inaccurate?
Unsuable potentially.
oh, huh. interesting...
If it can't get accurate reads, you could have ghost inputs.
i see, thanks for the info
i might still experiment with it a bunch on my own accord and see if i can get an usable combination tho
I could make a steel gasket mount plate
i wonder how much that ends up helping in total
but it also begs the question, which case would hold a 60% gasket mount case?
like i don't know if a bakeneko-like assembly will work, i think i've read something along the lines of "the plate will just pop out" at one point
tofu60 2.0
oh shit, right
though i also partially wonder, what if there was a 60% case that lets you gasket mount any pcb
i wonder if that'd help it or not
dunno if that exists
was curious a bit more. i removed the plate foam between the pcb and plate on the wooting and decided to see if the wooting pcb can gasket mount into the original case
...it fucking can. rofl
not even the usb port is in the way, really
it still fits
though i don't know if i can make out a discernable change in acoustics or not
Traditional thock is hard, because of the lack of a pole on the lower casing (there’s a hole instead) best you can do is stuff with dampening and lube.
Or for a loudest pop possible skip all foams, maybe just the pe sheet on the pcb
@oak ginkgo The Tofu2.0 wouldnt hold a 60HE in gasket mount form. It has a center USB
There are quite a few gasket or top mount cases/boards that do work with the 60HE if you have a plate made. If someone is really interested let me know and Ill give you a list. I do know that plates have already been created for the Frog Mini and Raindrop 60. I'm currently working on plates for a Hive60 so hopefully that will be done soon.
nothing that my CNC mill cant fix!
lol
you could just peck through the case for another hole
oh yeah, a bit of a thought for non-steel plates, why not use more standoffs so there's more stability in the plate? i think the main drawback of the steel plate is how pingy it is
and that could also contribute to the increased upstroke noise, i think
now i genuinely wonder how a very rigid plastic plate would sound like
which has a bunch of extra rubberized standoffs to make sure the plate can't bounce
You'd need to make sure you can still screw the pcb into the play if you go custom
since the PCB isn't really attached to the switches
Time to mod some switches 😰
https://amzn.eu/d/77S8ok5
would the small o rings from this work to burger mount?
Features: - These tap washers for mixer taps are made of high-quality material, which is safe, sturdy, and durable for long time use. - Soft and flexible o ring, simply snap on, easy to install. Stable performance, not easy to swell. - The rubber washers for plumbing come in a plastic storage box...
Yes
Does the lube affect the magnet censor or nah
avoid lubing the bottom of the stem and you should be good
femto is bad character >:Y
This shit is so finicky. Going to end up being almost 8 hours for the whole keeb 💀
Is that mod for silent?
Yeah it makes them similar to silent reds
Sound test between stock and modded
The 60he fits well with the Klippe T but it’s a little high for it
Do I have to remove the top part
I try to fit but the port doesn’t fit
You need new foam.
Can I use the stock foam for the klippe T?
Does anyone here happen to have a photo or two of the Ducky Mecha Mini case without PCB or anything inside? It is supposedly compatible, but before I put it on the official list, I'd like to double check there aren't any risks 🙂
Feel free to ping/pm me.
I had it but sold it literally last sunday lol
Heres one from google
Its the same thing as one two mini
Another one from google
Oofda. Noticeably different cases.
The top one is one two mini, bottom is mecha sorry
But they should both work
Standard tray mount points
exactly. the idea is still have the screw posts but also add extra rubber posts to give the plate more stability
i wonder if that way, fr4/pom could work
because that steel plate do be pingy doe
It's not the mount points that worry me. It's everything else poking up. 
Since the 60HE components are bottom side mounted
I was able to fit it in with case foam
So i dont think thats an issue
Standoffs are tall enough
The standoffs are still not the issue.
It's the other things poking up, potentially killing the PCB (Speaking from experience)
hey guys, can anyone recommend a aluminum case for the wooting 60he that is actually available right now? I missed my chance on getting a tofu 60% v1 😦 been looking everywhere for one but it seems no one has them in stock anymore.
ideally cnc silver or grey aluminum case, any help appreciated!
A place to start.
Wooting's Notion on Notion
Submit or request a review of a case by adding a comment or posting on discord
thanks mate! the mekanisk klippe t is exactly what I was looking for!
can anyone recommend keycaps?
There are less clouds in the sky than keycap options, you’ll probably want to give people budget, color, material preferred if you want recommendations
There's also profiles to consider lol
It’s so cool the stems are magnetics 🤣
60HE in a Tric60 case with GMK Calm depths and the Wooting silicone wrist rest.
Wooting is done
Mods done:
Case swap with a wood case
Burger mount
Lubed switches and springs, switched springs for 50g ones
Keycap swap for KAT BoW
Was really happy with the stock stabs, I could see the lube coming of them

What case?
Case I got off etsy
I can link
Lohacustom was the brand iirc
I might remove stock foams, I'm not too sure
Sounds kinda muted
Thoughts?
Have always loved the Ducky keycap designs, but after briefly checking etsy and google I haven’t found anything similar (lots of artwork but never the shinethrough silhouettes). Felt like this channel might have some suggestions? Thanks for any help 🙂
(specifically the spacebar in this pic)
Someone did the holee mod on the original stabs ??
I was happy with the stock stabs so I didn't mess with them
Nothing is poking up tho, prop up mechanism is at same level as the rest of the case
I can't tell that from those photos. So... yeah
how many layers of tape should i add when tape modding?
The short answer is as many as sounds best to you. The long answer is that most people dont believe there is a measurable difference in tape modding this board (myself included)
so u wouldnt say its worth taping it?
I do not think its worth it and I know Wooting tried it as well on their official youtube and also found it did not make a difference. If you want to mod for modding sake then go for it and try it out but it didnt make a difference for me and Ive even read of a few users believing that it contributed to some ghost input issues when they tape modded
Maybe don't pe mod the 60he..
I don't know what exactly caused this, maybe heat from the LEDs or smth, but the pe foam is glued to the PCB after having it installed a couple of months
Almost guaranteed to be due to heat
I thought pe foam was a little better at that honestly
Any thoughts on if this sounds muted or not?
Some of the boards get hot. This isnt a 60HE but you can see what the LED's did on the bottom of this Tofu after a year

Damn kinda sucks
Though you could call it battle scarred
haha for sure
Any idea how I get that pe goo off?
I've done similar things to similar products before with success, but I would be devastated to destroy my 60he
90% alcohol and sufficient dry time is usually safe for electronics
Ask Wooting tech support first though!
Ight I have some disinfectant spray that's like 95% ethanol
I dont know about that spray, I use these in a pinch and even at 70% they work ok for cleaning stuff up - https://www.amazon.com/Medical-Grade-Individually-Wrapped-Isopropyl-Disposable-Antiseptic/dp/B07F2N14FV/ref=sxts_rp_s_a_1_0?content-id=amzn1.sym.eff26b9b-e255-411b-a40d-eccb21f93fe4%3Aamzn1.sym.eff26b9b-e255-411b-a40d-eccb21f93fe4&cv_ct_cx=alcohol+pads&keywords=alcohol+pads&pd_rd_i=B07F2N14FV&pd_rd_r=8763c206-1743-469d-992c-6da121bc86df&pd_rd_w=Md1Be&pd_rd_wg=Bug4Z&pf_rd_p=eff26b9b-e255-411b-a40d-eccb21f93fe4&pf_rd_r=1ZNS5T9MGV1QEQMZSNB9&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sr=1-1-5985efba-8948-4f09-9122-d605505c9d1e
I don't have nearly enough of those laying around
You gotta dig through your first aid kit 🙂
It almost feels illegal to say this, I dont have one 😅
I think I might chance it with the spray and some cloth
Paper towel vs micro fiber 🤔
Update: paper towel rubbed itself away and microfiber only smeared the stuff across the board, but didn't remove it. I have no idea how to get it off at this point, might just have to live with it 😅
I absolutely do not recommend pe foam when using backlight. The residue is extremely annoying
Silicone sheet mod instead!
I also just removed the top part
sleek
is there a sound difference between the klippe t and the fjell?
i’m sure, the weight is very different
Well yeah but I want to know how it sounds in words if u know what I mean
Like deeper, clackier, louder
@regal hound
They are both aluminum cases and sound very similar. The Fjell is more expensive because it's twice the weight of Klippe, has the copper accents/weight and the beveled edges.
Thank you
No worries! Don't spend money if you don't need to. The Fjell is heavier and thicker so has a little less resonance and does sound a bit less hollow, but unless you want the best of the best, it's not worth the additional $150-$200 if you already own the Klippe
you mean the fjell with the first one
Yeah fixed!
🤓 so are you fjellin it up?
my nuphy ghostbar came in, I can confirm it definitely makes my spacebar around 30-50% quieter
did not experience any mushy feeling that you would get if you used a silent switch
note, 1 of the spacebars came perfectly balanced, but 1 of the spacebars had the typical warp that nearly all keycap sets have
from their website sound tests, it seems that it reduces the sound of spacebar rattle, but my spacebar wasn't rattley to begin with so I can't confirm or deny this claim
Has anyone changed the stabilizers in the wooting or are the factory ones good enough?
Most people here say the original stabs are good, no need to change. Just lube them
I finally finished modding mine
I went for a japenese vibe with a bamboo case and i love it
lubed southfacing switches
keycaps: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BB4WF9H?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Just an FYI for anyone wondering. It's only a case and keycap swap. The case is the GH60 Walnut (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYMCJBR). I kept the original foam but it took some heavy persuading to install and line up the USB port. (the port is way off center, but it plugs in just fine)
Purple Fjell, GMK Dots, and a couple hours of lube
and a phone that can't detect vertical or horizontal pictures, apparently
Keycaps?
Alright thanks
yo
am i suppose to screw the screw all the way in when im using a seperate board
case
also i lubed the switches and have the switches south facing for the cherry profile keycaps
pretty sure youre supposed to screw them in softly like until there is force
unless the type c connector isnt lined up with the case
I applied force until it was allgined
and thats pretyt much it
but it felt a little tight
i think that should be good
so im just worried
oh
Just hand tighten lightly. As long as the screw isnt wobbling or the PCB moving around you're good. I usually never tighten mine all the way down as I like to isolate the PCB as much possible from the case
This case is awesome! Where can I get one
What did your heavy persuading involve? I’m looking to get a wooden case at some point so trying to find options that don’t cause issues haha
Only possibility would be r/mechmarket . It was only a one-time group buy back in 2016
[GB] TriC 60% case/kit (waiting on replacement acrylic, otherwise complete)
Just pressing down hard with one arm to squish the foam while screwing in the board.
a low profile case like this might work
not 100% sure though
Yeah that looks compatible at a glance. Claims to be GH60 compatible and doesn't have any superfluous standoffs anywhere that could cause issues
It's MODDING time.
The final steps to true ascendant
You're forgetting the $2500 keycult case
Or the $6000 gold coated tungsten tray mount
Need a shungite case to keep the 5g away
A fresh replacement board compared to my original board… I just had to share how shockingly raw the un modded board is like…
Even with the crunchy phone mic the difference is jarring
One of my orings popped away. 20$ to the first who finds it
wait, is there a tray mount 60% keycult?
that's a huge difference lmao
Its nice to have those comparison videos as people tend to not notice the small changes when you do them incrementally
Guys.. it has been a journey 
Ain’t nobody believed in me, but god did. 
I have now done everything in my power to get out of bronze in VALORANT.
It all started off by buying the 60HE with PBT keycaps.
Almost 2 months later, there I was in my couch, fighting through sweat and almost tears (almost) spending a whole day 14-21 to lube all switches and switch to the lighter springs.
Then I put it in a black Tofu60 case.
Now as the finals steps I have tape modded it (which is the weirdest shit I’ve ever done) and put the tiny o-rings on the screws for a burger mount.
If I can with zero experience so can you! (Hopefully it’s not gonna explode on me in the near future)
Thank you for not just blessing me with this expensive ass keyboard
but also the best of the best on the market 
Thats guaranteed to move you up at least 3 ranks
I don't think so, mostly joking
ngl, would be hilarious if kc still did comms and someone went "hey gamers can you guys make a tray mount thing for my wooting 60he assembly"
Funny but also still $700 minimum
Tried it out with the kbdfans tape mod thing and with a wood case it makes a slight difference, took off the very top end of the sound but if you didn't ab I'd doubt you'd notice
I apologize if this has been asked recently, but does anyone know of films that work well with the lekkar switches/how is the process? I’ve heard it’s harder than with typical switches
I remember of people complaining of problems with films due to the lekker switches being wider than normal mx switches iirc
I think if you get a more flexible film or just get a wider film to begin with you should be fine
Would a more flexible film be made of a specific material (polycarbonate?) or is it a matter of thickness?
Anyone use mt3 profile keycaps? If so, how do you like them?
I think its a mix of both
Finally found a set that matches my case perfectly. Though I gotta say - I actually prefer it with the LEDs off for that 2000s Gameboy transparent look.
Sick
Those would probably be nice on that GBA keyboard too
Mm, guess it would be a bit off
@fresh jackal love it! Love you're not going the traditional route either. So many options out there that can look and sound good.
I mean to be fair I have two 60HE cases. One in 80s IBM style with matching keycaps and this neon monstrosity to match my PC 😄
Get you one for work and one for gaming 😄
https://imgur.com/a/QVTYZp7
(old corsair keycaps, same purple edition of the B Box case)
Ooh, I like the retro one
Dude your set up is GOAT
the Mac .. I need that
I just love that you built both with BBOX cases lol
I bought the purple one because I couldn't find the grey one.
Then of course a week after the first one arrives, someone pokes me about a 2nd hand seller who is selling it with PCB. Managed to get a deal on just the case. With stickers and everything.
So basically two, new cases.
Do you like purple?
Mansen, are 60HEs compatible with aluminium keycaps? Such as Artisan ones from Salvun? asking for @summer root
In Theory? Yes. Weight wise? No idea.
Those springs are going to feel very soft and light when pushed down by heavy keycaps
That's what I thought...
I just want to add a Artisan from salvun thats all
The rest of the caps are normal PBT caps
Yes but you gotta take their weight into account for the springs
That's why gamers usually don't change anything from the 60HE, it's perfect as is from a performance standpoint
What case is this? It looks so good
BOX60 Keyboard Case and Stand
7 degree typing angle
Compatible with GH60, GK61 and GK64 PCBs
Wireless battery compartment for Bluetooth compatibility
Includes Keyboard Case, and Stand.
Plate, PCB, Switches and Keycaps have to be bought separately
injection molded translucent atomic-purple ABS
Free Sticker sheet with every order
Designed by ...
Supported by the 60HE... if you're willing to hurt it
permanently
what are things I’d have to do
Wooting's Notion on Notion
Needs some amount of permanent modification to extra standoffs with pliers and cutters to fit a 60HE without damaging the PCB components (leading to a dead board)
This example uses the Cyberspace, neon purple case as an example, but this should be identical on all colorways of the case.
I'M GLAD YOU ASKED
What did you use to cut the standoffs like an xacto knife or something more powerful?
Visible on the first photo. I use a cutter on either side of each standoff, then I use the pliers* to wiggle them back and forth till the plastic gave.
That's the exact case I already have! I love low profile cases, I'm actually looking for one even more low profile than that one. I haven't found one yet but if anyone ever does I'd be happy to be a guinea pig and drop $ for it
I see the pliers is it the black pen looking thing?
And then I used a ton of pillow stuffing to fill out the case. Gives it kind of a cloud look inside.
I don't think I've seen anything lower than this
Yeah I saw it looks great. Do you mind sending a sound clip it can be here or through dm but I’d like to hear the sound
Don't have a stock 60HE...or a 60HE that's unlubed 😄
I did a sound comparison way, way up in the channel somewhere.
Like months ago.
I’ll try and search for it
Me neither, but I'm hopeful
the case definitely has room to be made even more minimal while still being sturdy
the aluminium is amazing though, my only gripe is I definitely prefer boxed off corners compared to the rounded ones
aliexpress.com
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
There's this one but it needs a custom plate
yeah but that wont work for us unfortunately
so we'll have to wait until someone figures out how to make plates that are compatible/wont cause issues
Holy tracking metadata, batman. Here let me fix that for you
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002995976407.html
I found it and it sounds great 
I did have a chance to compare a stock 60HE to my lubed PCB. And it is a wild difference. Definitely recommend it for the sound and smooth feeling - if you can stand spending ... 4-5 hours 😄
Oh that’s the first thing I was put on a show and get to work on the advanced lubing
It was my first time doing any lubing ever so took like 8 hours but go it done
Final result, added tape mod and fixed some overlubed switches
Lubed PCB?
Ah
Is that the GH60, Anne, or GK61-1 version of the case from here? https://www.etsy.com/listing/1185916625/gh60annegk61-1-walnut-woodkeyboard-case
Yes
And what’s even the difference between the 3?
Ah okay. Did you have to do any work to get it to fit? Or first try worked?
beige, very based
Why not sound dampening foam used for audio?
better to sleep on
oof - you can probably email wooting to buy a replacement. If they allow it it's a special order so there's no link.
i highly doubt they would do that unless its under warranty
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005344620473.html?channel=twinner
Is this case compatible? I think its new on aliexpress havnt seen it before. Just want to check the screw points because it seems like some are missing
@bleak cosmos Ive used this before and it would likely work with the wooting as well (not a promise, just a guess) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09W8RR8L7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Anyone use polyfill in their custom 60he instead of foam?
pretty sure @fresh jackal did
A few of us have used polyfill (I actually prefer it in aluminum cases)
Has anyone made a concrete case before? Maybe I’m just weird but I’m very curious what it would sound like
That sounds like an absolute pain to make
Also would probably damage your table

Lol. I think you could do it with a mold as it’s pourable. Im also very curious about a ceramic case but that gets even harder considering ceramic shrinks by like 10% when it’s fired
@hearty dew thanks. I'm going to try it now lol
@regal hound Is there a drastic change to the sound profile? What do you like about it?
@still laurel there are already concrete cases and people have tried them
Oh woah lol
Did you preorder one?
No, I have enough cases
I suggested it because they allowed me to buy replacement out of warranty. Doesn't hurt to try
Because it's s lot easier to stuff with stuffing than try and get foam pieces everywhere
hei i got my wooting and i want to move the body to a tofu case, but i m not sure about this screw holes in the tofu, do i take out those yellow bits?
Can someone give me like 20 o rings? I don't need 200
they look like plugs to prevent the treads from getting clogged when coating, you can remove them
Got a super minimal aluminium case I really like. But the white backplate is bugging me a little. How hard is the switch out, and any recommendations?
Switch out? Not very. Custom work.
Sand down and paint black? Much easier - But you would lose some LED
It's white specifically to help the LEDs shine brighter overall.
Yeah was considering the paint black option. But would like a spare if it looks terrible.
Don't mind having less RGB, I have them super low brightness right now anyways.
Also anyone have any good recommendations for blank black keycaps?
Dang putting a tape mod on you can really hear that stab rattle
We do sell spare parts as needed. Though shipping can take a while if you're far from Europe.
Ooh useful info. Where would I find these? I'm UK based.
You'd have to do the oldschool thing and send us an email asking about this 😄
We don't have a website or anything for it - And we hand pack everything at the main office as well.
Ahh that's cool though, will send an email through!
It sounds much better now though 👍
Later on once I get new keycaps and modding supplies going to sit down and lube switches and holee mod stabs
For some reason my space bar sounds a little hollow?
What if I overlay a custom silkscreen on the pcb. 
I have a hot air rework station, soldering is nothing new to me. 
Also I reverse engineered pcbs. Maybe I can make a custom pcb that can take custom plates.
Ooh, maybe even a gasket mounted plate

Not going to lie it would be interesting to see someone make a gasket plate that used screw stabs.
Only thing I risk doing is wrecking some hall sensors and LEDs
Although I’m pretty sure I can get them from digikey if I look hard enough.

4 layer pcb? No problem.
Did you know why Wooting made plate over screw in stabs in the first place? it's like going backwards for stabs
Timing?
The 60HE design is over two years old by now.
We could make a redesign, but that would complicate warranty.
That's way above my paygrade. #archived_feed_us_back
Fair fair, but I know I had screw in stabs like 4 years ago on keyboards. Just curious. Wooting is so far ahead on most things except the stabs, I'll def rebuy when they have screw in stabs. Also a Nice alu stock case (so we don't have to buy 3rd party) would be nice.
@nocturne bluff are the plate mounted stabs causing you an issue?
I actually prefer them on the wooting because it allows for gummy o-ring mounted that wouldnt be possible with screw-in stabs
How does screw in stabs matter with any mounting? The difference is the plate is cut more and the stabs are screwed to the pcb. Should have no factor into any mounting. I say like 99% percent of any premium keyboard that you see "Gummy o-ring mount" or gastket/insert mounting ... use screw in stabs
gummy o-ring mounting is not the same as burger mounting using tiny o-rings (fairly common misunderstanding). Its also called friction fit mounting. Its a large o-ring going around the entire PCB
Yes. But how does screw in stabs affect the plate. It doesn't change it other than the cut outs inside. Do you know what screw in stabs are?
Screw in stabs on a 60% board are directly on the edge for the spacebar and the backspace key and do not allow the o-ring to fit evenly around it. I can show you a visual example if that helps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uohbf2UH6FY This is gummy oring with a tofu60... screw in stabs
The Tofu, the mechanical keyboard that everyone has heard of. Love it or hate it, the tofu has cemented itself as one of THE beginner boards within the hobby. With more and more options for beginners popping up, can it still be relevant? With this mod utilizing a Gummy O Ring and a special PCB, I genuinely think it still holds its place as a gre...
Yes grasshopper it is, but its using a special PCB designed to allow this
Its the only PCB that works with screw-ins for this mounting method
I mean to each their own
and I do own 3 of them
I was only asking if you were having issues with your stabs. the only advantage to screw-ins is less wobble, but my wooting ones have zero wobble
The last keyboard I bought that had plate mount was like a NK65 like 3/4 years ago
Why does that look like he's about to spank that keyboard with the string?

Its part of the process. Just go with it
@regal hound can I gummy my woot with tofu? Do you know what ring to get? Worth it?
GraveShift
M for medium! These are standard sized to fit most 65% keyboards as well as some 60%. PLEASE READ THE CHART BELOW FIRST! There is also a chart for you to see if your board is on our checked list. If it is not on our chart, we do not recommend buying it, and you are buying at your own risk. If you are located in Canada,
what case is that, looks perfect for me.
i used to use a g915 tkl and like a slim design.
Wtf happened with your plug
Dude did he chew it??
haha this is funny but if I were a betting man Id say his cable end was too large to fit into the previous case opening so he grinded it off a bit
For example on my Baldr60 case the blue cable end is too wide but the gray fits
naughty keyboard
Brutal60 on sale at cannonkeys! Should work with the plate i made if anyone wants to give it a go :p
@fresh jackal when you get a chance and if you remember what kind of fluff did you use I’m kind of confused on what I’m looking for
Polyfill like for a pillow.
i literally just ripped open a pillow i dont use and put that in 
so what does the "Tape Mod" do? Its Taping the backside of the PCB, right?
Mansen used only the finest duckling down, plucked straight from the source
I wholeass went down to the local hobby and craft store and grabbed a couch pillow with some polyester fluff (They even had samples you could touch and compare with, and the ones I grabbed were supposedly ESD safe)
Though just in case I did apply electrical tape on the PCB all around the USB connector where the PCB isn't coated to protect against spills and light ESD. (static discharge)
oh god was hoping no one would notice this. Was an amazon basic black cable I had lying around. As someone suspected had to cut it down to fit.
Have sanded down a bunch now so it looks a lot less horrible + I really don't see it from any angle.
I'm coming round to the idea of just risking ruining everything with the paint back-plate. Any spray paint recommendations (or types to avoid)?
No clue. I don't spray paint things in general 😄
I figure a bit of sandpaper and black primer should do the trick? Just regular rattle can automotive paint?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XNPN32R?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details This is the case. It does have a hole on the bottom for wireless keyboards + you'll need a thin usb-c cable to make it fit (or cut down your cable as you can see mine above). It did have some scratches on the inside but fits almost perfectly otherwise. It also arrived for me much faster than suggested.
Ok thats what I thought. I was also thinking I could 3D print a backplate in black (I have printer and black filament) gonna be annoying to 3D model perfectly.
Might ruin sound though.
Mabye just painting this area (or using vinyll (just to the width of where spacebar LED gap is would stop the white outer spill but keep nice glow from behind keys.
What lighter switches for possibly lighter switches and lubing is good for wooting60. This my first time going through this process so I’m just trying to figure out to not assume. A lot of mods I want to do as well like the burger mount but do I need to buy the seperate piece for that as well
There are no lighter switches. Actually, there are no other compatible switches. If you want lighter, you need the lighter springs Wooting sells.
You wouldn't happen to know what the backplate is made of metal or plastic?
Backplate?
The case itself is ABS? plastic. The PCB is silicon, the foam layer is some kind of foam, and the switch plate that the switches sit in is steel.
Ok thanks, yeah I was referring to the white part of the backplate which I would take apart and spraypaint.
Switchplate 😄
Appreciated did not know what to call it 😄 but its precoated in some way?
I am actually not sure what exactly they do with the plate. If it's sanded and painted, or if it's some kind of chemical application.
But you should be able to grab some rough and fine sandpaper to get it down to the metal, wash and dry it and then re-primer it.
I would recommend using a meathook or something holding it suspended, so you can paint the whole board without touching or holding it.

And alright thank 
so what does the "Tape Mod" do? Its Taping the backside of the PCB, right?
Tape modding is in our opinion is the easiest and most rewarding mod you can do. Overall the tape mod makes your keyboard more poppy, but sometimes the results are neglectable. That's why we will be testing the masking tape mod in this video.
➤ Follow our socials!
🧑🤝🧑 Discord https://wooting.io/discord
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how do i fit the foam that comes with the wooting 60 into tofu?
Can I use the dampening foam that wooting already has incase on a Klippe T case. Or should I get another foam to put in the Klippe T case? Any recommendations on lube outside of wooting or just buy the springs and the lube from wooting?
Also are key caps pretty universal for 60wooting keyboard or any idea of specifics for key caps
@fresh jackal this one is listed as compatible by a comment of yours that points to:
However, @regal plank said he had to buy a different usb-c cable or cut the original one to make it fit to that case ?
I don't follow.
What i mean is, that it is not a compatible case without modifications (such as buying another thin usb-c or cutting down the original one)
Oog is more than welcome to provide feedback and photos.
I suspect they may have screwed in the PCB a bit too far to a side.
By "they" you mean Oog?
Well... yes?
allright
because i recently bought it
It will arrive soon i guess in the next 2 weeks
Gonna test it and give my feedback about it
According to the photos Amazon has, the USB opening looks large enough and identical to any other case.
So... hard to say without more practical comparisons.
There is even a review of someone who used it and fit perfectly
The only downside were the feets
I know I've had to plug the USB cable in while screwing in my B BOX case to make sure it all lines up. Because there is a bit of play with the standoff/PCB screw-in process.
How would I replace those with the ones the original case have? Or some others that looks similar.
Is there anyone using Fjell case? I want to buy a metal case for my wooting and I found this 300USD case..
Yeah original cable should fit fine. I had a amazon basic black cable I'm using for now. Wanted a plain cable.
The cable i was using was super bulky is why sorry for being unclear

In process of spraying switchplate 😄
It does work perfect. You could use it without the wooting padding (I found it a little louder without). I pealed apart the top layer so just had the larger bottom layer of foam because it wouldn't fit both layers in nicely. I also had to make a hole in the padding because the case has an extra screw mounting hole in the middle but thats easy peesy. Otherwise its absolutely perfect.
Blacked out switchplate

did u paint it yourself?
Whats the case?
I think its improved the sound quite a bit actually. Because the switches are very tight. Could be rough getting them out.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNPN32R?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 this is US link but i linked UK somewhere above
Clean case
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tutoy-Black-Keycaps-Mechanical-Keyboad/dp/B07C263NP5 getting these keycaps soon to go with it
But yeah I think its really clean. Coming from an absolutely massive 100% Razer Blackwidow I had from years back the keyboard creates so much space on my desk.
any coil cables recommendation that looks clean and doesnt affect the transfer speed?
Transfer speed?
idk wouldnt cable have some affects on input lag or something.,.?
It's a voltage issue. If it becomes unstable you get random inputs, missed inputs. That sort of thing.
It isn't going to inherently make the board "slower", just ... problematic.
This isn't something you can truly avoid - unless you reduce the LED brightness in Wootility. Down to around 70% usually solves it.
then I can safely purchase my first coil cable on cablemod I guess..
I have a 150cm (coiled part uncoiled not counted) from Cablemod, no aviator in the middle. It starts typing by itself at around 75% LED or above.
IF tachyon is enabled.
Tachyon off? Can run at 100%
ahhhh IDK maybe I should just use the stock one to avoid problems XD
I'll just buy a coil cable for my work keyboard
cant wait for my wooting but I need to wait until mid May ;;
Quite a few of us
Worth the money with the wooting mod?
Check your DM
It's probably the best case you can get for it but only you can answer if it's worth the money
We are all semi-crazy Keeb Enthusiasts!
@bleak tiger if you're planning to order one and want to save a few bucks and time, shoot me a DM
that would be great but i live in Japan tho, is it okay?
Make a shipping trade 😂 Artisan Mousepads for Keyboard Case
Default cable no good?
No good for what?
Just wondering why they are using a different cable if not for aesthetics
Makes sense
Yellow and black worked out with the wood and the cable was high quality so I just stuck with it
There are
that's white or black
A lot
Coiled or standard?
Of places
coiled have problem withj takyon mode right?
Sometimes
i would rather chjose a standard short cable jkust to be sure
If the cable is high quality think you can avoid that
Sometimes but you can turn down RGB and fix it usually
the price dont matter
More specifically keeping both tachyon and LEDs on bright. Might need to reduce the LED to around 70% or so.
My man said price don't matter!
Ideal range?
idk tbh not into this stuff
i guess like
1.8m
is standard
I mean price range

tbh just good quality nothjing overr 50$
These guys make great stuff. I own 2 of their cables - https://wiredinstore.com/
Wired In
We are a family owned and operated company that specializes in custom mechanical keyboard cables. We offer every option imaginable. Wired In is an authorized retailer for MDPC™ | The Original from Germany and one of the few artisans using MDPC-X XTC; the tightest PET weave available, without compromise, on the market.
Ohhh under $50? Nevermind
GAWD DAYUM
Probably going to head out for a bit battery getting low
i said
price dont matter
but
i didnt know
there even are
cables
that cost
100$
0_0
That's not even expensive for custom cables
Mass produced ones start at about half.
I think the one I got from Cablemod retails for 60?
well im not tryna buy a cable for the half of my keyboard hahah
I think your enter key is broken. Its clipping off all your sentences into 2-3 words at a time.
If you don't care about turning down the LED a bit, and your budget is under $50 check KBDfans
oh
ty
are keycaps from here good too ?
im not really looking for any cuz im fine with the standard ones but maybe if i would find some good lookin ones
Sure KBDfans is a solid vendor for keyboard accessories
As MK enthusiasts who are obsessed with building keyboards, we understood the needs of the mechanical keyboards community. This cable is our latest take on designed mechanical keyboard cables. Our goal was to create a mass production product that will allow more people to get into the hobby witho...
could u check this one?
or this one
also found this one
with cables like that i would have to turn led to like 70%?
btw what makes these cables different from the original one
im gonna go to sleep
They're longer.
Unwind that coil and you've got a long ass cable.
so if i find the same size cable that isnt 5$ it would work the same
basicaly any not coiled cable?
cuz i dont reallyy care abt the coiled cables
the only difference is that they look a little bit better imo, functionality is the same
cuz how often do u move ur keyboard more than 5 cm
or maybe i just dont know smth about coiled cables
@regal hound @fresh jackal i admire you guys trying
I can’t believe you had to write that out. Lol it’s common sense
Wished the included cable was all black. The yellow accents on the cable isn’t my thing
Can you test if the wooting wrist rest fit that case ?
And what about the feets of the case are those bad ? Since i read a review that was talking bad about them
@regal plank
does anyone know of a nice blank set of thick yet slim profile pbt titanium colored keycaps? I tried looking but couldnt find any that tickled my fancy.
Oof, that's an expensive cable
I've spent enough on keyboards in the past couple months, maybe sometime in the future
Don't look at these guys then (I know them and their stuff is amazing) - https://www.voxelmods.com/
Would kinda want to buy this but don't need another case laying around 😅
cables around 90USD should not be using heat shrink imo...
What alternative do you propose?
I'm planning on buying a coil cable soon but I assume heat shrink is a cheaper way to make cables instead of normal injection molded/ CNC machined ones?
Yeah the original cable is way higher quality tbh. I need to get a similar one just all black, or might just ink it up and see what it looks like.
You kind of self explained why that isn't happening. If you're ordering a custom cable, it's going to be hand made, unless you're ordering from a massive, mass fabricated company 😄
I don't have a wrist rest sorry. I have a very weird keyboard posture that just doesn't need one (right hand on keyboard etc.) The feet looked kinda gross to me when assembling, but now they're on really not noticed. I was going for semi budget so does the job for now.
I thought those are like keycaps where they just make it all in a single factory but brand them in different names, my bad
I guess cablemod and WIRED IN are the only options for me
Attempting a black out of my wooting cable since I really like the original and it fits keyboard perfectly. Was thinking people could pretty easily custom colour their cable if they have specific custom colours, would be even nicer if the cable were black and white instead of black and yellow
What power delivery requirement does the Wooting have for tachyon mode?
for the cable *
It's a USB cable. That's about it
Length and quality of the cable in terms of manufacturing matters.
6ft, no coils should work just fine with no? need to reduce LED Brightness
Is it worth upgrading from tofu60 to klippe t?
I mean that depends, what is your goal and how much do you want to pay
Is there any major difference between the two?
thank you
I'll give it some positive consideration.
Do you know if mekanisk foam is better than wooting stock foam?
thank you. I wouldn't buy it.
Is there a better case than klippe? Regardless of price.
Finish, sound, etc.
Fjell is endgame ish for overall case in that category
But it’s also way more expensive
@tawdry ivy
I like the term endgame
I will buy fjell when I save up the money
Thank you for your help and advice
Yoo how did u do that
Probably a sharpie lmao
is it possible to remove the stabilizers without taking the pcb of the plate?
Yes.
Coooorrection. You can remove spacebar*
The smaller ones does require disassembly
thats the only one that really has enough rattle to annoy me so that works out
Do I recall hearing or reading that Durock stabilizers v2 screw in can be used as replacements?
Wooting uses plate mount stabs
so no
Could I use the stock 60he case for a different keyboard build?
It would be a build for my brother, which wants a specific switch.
ridiculous
Why does it say for wooting 60he lol
rather habe the klippe t
might as well buy the klippe t at that point yeah
if i had to guess maybe a good sounding switch like holy pandas or boba u4ts
Tactiles
Ok edit I can confirm tape mod causes ghosting
how
Idk but uhhhh
Kbdfans tape mod
strange
Painters tape worked.out for me with no trouble
Ok really bad news
Its still persisting after I removed the tape
@fresh jackal Any ideas?
try reconnecting your cable
and let it sit there for a moment
Ye I was gonna say that
That was something
Keyboard calibrates every time it's turned on afaik
That seems to have fixeed it?
Nvm
Its seems to be fine now?
I'm not 100%
And it having a seizure again
I have no idea what's up
Opening wootlity seems to have fixed somehow?
Ok its tachyon mode
I don't know why but tachyon mode having a seizure
Not the tape\
I'll test again with the tape and no tach
Or not
Wait is this a discord problem
I reloaded discord and its fine

WTF
I'm very confused but its working
So I'll just stop messing with it
I got to ask but what wires are people using cause I might want to try a usb c to ps/2 cable but I’m not sure if they exist or I’m just stupid
I don't think they exist because there's not really a point.
You'd probably need a USB-C to USB-A cable with a USB-A to PS/2 adapter.
Considering that silicon spray lube worked well as a quick an easy method, however could block the connection on regular switches, do you think it would be decent for Lekkers?
any idea for improvements?
if somebody knows where to find iso german white pbt pudding keycaps, write something
What mods did you do?
lubed all switches, changed keycapse, case, added some foam thats it
I mean that's basically everything I would do
Maybe burger mount and take the bottom middle screw
Hi, I've reduced the up and down stroke noise of the lekker switch with cloth tape (I believed it called Gaffer Tape?)
here's the sound comparison
this can also occur from unstable voltage (using a usb hub//coiled cable//front-usb port of pc//monitor usb port//etc..)
reducing brightness or turning off tachyon mode is the easiest fix
I was using the default cable directly into my pc so I see no reason why that would be the case
Tape mod removable fixed it so I'm just not mess with it

any mod that messes with the full-range of the switch can also cause calibration issues
will keep note of this, since calibration should compensate for that (it does it properly for o-rings/similar)
Goooooooooooood morning modders. What have I missed the last 24 hours?
Looks like not a lot. I should take days off more often!
what is the noticeable symptom that might cause from the calibration issues?
from what I testing so far is pretty normal except when fully bottoms out the analog value will not exactly go to 100% unless I squeezed the key (understandable since I put the tape at the bottom housing)
are trhere supposed to be 2 of those little white things missing on a couple of the tags (D34), theres a hole there in place of them im just wondering if i broke something, anyone have a picture of their pcb handy?
Take a photo
i already screwed it and my phone was dead. n thats why i asked someone if they had a photo,
or if its in the design files, i would look but i dont have cad software
No idea what you mean by missing.
use touch RGB fx and see if the 1 // f1 key is lighting up without touching the keyboard
if that happens, recalibrate the keyboard by reconnecting it while not touching the keys until RGB turns on
do you have a picture of the whole pcb
it mightve not been d34 i was just giving a random example
i know it was one on the farther left and onhe on the farther right
and what i mean by missing is that instead of a white thing being there, there is just a hole straight through the pcb.
i found a video of someone doing a teardown and it appearss there are 3 missing aswell
ISO / ANSI differences.
If there's a hole, that's usually because of this.
Otherwise you would notice the complete lack of functionality on a button or LED
I've officially spent more on keycaps than I did for my Wooting and I'm not sure how I feel about that
To be fair I bought keycaps for both my incoming Wooting and my second keyboard
question
has someone tried this case for their board
just swapped keycaps to a different one
quite like it but not so sure about the sound 
I have a wood case that similar if you want sound impressions
Gaffer tape is a type of cloth tape, but it’s mixed in with some plastics found in duct tape
There’s another one you can try where you put silicone/gasket maker onto those landing areas on the housings and dampen the bottom out and return sounds. Albeit the bottom housing one is a bit unconventional and not ideal, at least to me.
Anybody have issues with gmk keycaps on the wooting?
What kind of issues?
gmk has north facing issues
idk what north facing means in terms of the hump
but wooter has the hump on the bottom
regardless, there are hella builds with gmk around, so im guessing its not an issue
Okay this is really weird I think this is mostly a discord problem?
I realized I was only having problems on discord for some reason
I refreshed my discord and the keyboard is fine now
I do. Plz share
Its a much deeper and full sound compared to the stock plastic case
Depending the thickness of your wood case it'll change how full/dense your keyboard sounds from experience
would you prefer it over trhe plastic?
Wife made an pikachu artisan key cap for my custom wooting ❤️
100%
it sticks out in a good way with the rest of the setup
Though I'd take anything over the plastic, no offense
oh no. I agree. I like the design of it, but prefer something other than plastic
imma buy that case and update you with the progress
Oh you might have to apply a varnish or stain on it then @hazy sentinel
I forgot about that
Its about 10 dollas more
i see
thank you for the help
do you have pictures of your board?
i just got my wooting but my plate is warped/bent. has anyone else had this issue? i dont think it will be a problem seeing itll bend back flat when you screw it down anyway
Your...plate? You mean the switch plate?
Is this a 60HE or a 2HE?
Could you take some photos of this bend?
trying to find soluitions for wobbly switches (most noticible on space bar)
since the issue comes from the stem i doubt filming does much
(issue stems from the stem (lol))
best solution would probably be wait for lekker v2 with tightger tolerances ...
maybe i can try finding the most unwobbly switch on my board and replacing the space bar switch with it....
wait
can it be fixed with different stabs?
since its the space bar
Different stabs won't help there - But you can put some material on the "south" side of the stabilizers to make them shift less.
I took a small piece of folded paper and stuck it on with a bit of electrical tape.
It should be the house wobbling, not the stem itself on the stabilizer.

since they are tilted in opposite directions
theres less room for play
they push against each other
I meant putting a bit of paper and tape here and then pushing the housing back in.,
i think im going to try this
one on each side
so that they push against each other, in opposite directions
Can't put anything there on the left one. There's a wire sticking out 😄
what if i put tape here
opposite of each other
now the tilt against each other
you know what i mean right
pretty sure im onto something/ its going to work
Switches need tighter tolerance for sure
Stem wobble is bad on mine too
Not just space bar, other keys as well
agreed
though when I'm not typing and just watching something or sitting in a meeting like right now, I tend to just wobble the keys
kinda like having a fidget spinner or whatever gadget available at all times
deciding between gummy or burger
could just try *either its not that expensive
is gummy/friction significantly more consistent than burger?
these are the ones im going to get
guys be VERY careful when removing lekker switchse
this part of the switch breaks very easily
it almost turns the switch into a perishable good
where every time you remove one theres a risk it breaks
laughs in having removed every single switch without an issue on a 60HE
It helps a ton to disassemble the board and only pull switches using our puller with the switch plate in hand.
yeah you have to actively avoid it
because your switch puller goes right above it
definitely to it with plate in hand
what switch puller do you use
is it very thin?
I use ours.
The ends are 90" angled instead of... 45" or so from what I see on generic cherry ones?
maybe mine are too thick
nvm its just a design flaw
Theres not any gap
So you are basically always going to hit it
Well yeah - it holds the switch in place
Very well, Blade of the Darkmoon. Please remove the switches with extreme care
Other switches avoid this issue
See where im grabbing the other switch vs lekker?
imagine if you had switches in place of your teeth
You'd have to ask Gateron or @hybrid rapids about the switch design. 😄
I just work here.
yeah
i thought it was an issue with my switch puller
or my method
i should probably get a better switch puller but
idk what technique you are using to avoid this problem
you could bend and level the prongs if the angle is the issue like Mansen suggested
Step one, only have switch plate in hand, no PCBA package. Lessens tension.
Step two, grap each switch on north/south and wiggle/pull
https://youtu.be/WN_-GYLTfpY?t=114
As calder shows here.
(Except I don't pull them out of the case)
Always wondered how you can lubricate your lekker switches or grease your stabilizer wire. In this video, we will deep dive on different methods of lubing and some general tips and tricks. Using the Wooting 60HE.
Krytox GPL 205G0 and Molykote EM-50L lubricant:
https://region.wooting.store/products/lubrication-set-krytox-205g0-molykote-em-50l
:...
those defniitely help aleviate the issue
yeah he dose it vertiaclly
in the video
you cant avoid the design by doing that
@hybrid rapids
Cherry style usually have this slot
Kailh style (rightmost switch) does not
The issue with lekker
im doing it in the same way as the video
just a second further in the vid he says "though I do not recommend to do it this way, just put it on the table and remove the switches as you'd usually do"
in hand or on the table
im doing it vertically
when i say "same way" i mean vertically
switch pullers go horizontal on cherry style switches
Hopefully im not making this too confusing
Tbh I did my whole keyboard this weekend, and legit used 2 screwdrivers one in each hand to take each switch off. ALMOST broke 1, but I wasn't nearly careful enough and was not using the right tools. With some amount of care and correct tools seems unbreakable.
And i've put pcs together before, but never touched a keyboard internally. From just watching that video someone linked above managed it perfectly. seem super use freindly even without correct tools.
you guys have stable hands damn
anyways regardless of if you can prevent it with technique
the design can be improved to extend the lifetime of the switch
hey, has anybody tried these qmx clips yet? https://uniqey.net/zubehoer/18/qmx-clips-plate-mount-110-st.
i'm kinda inclined to try these
i'll order these either way simply because i'm curious about it
The Ultimate 60HE Dust and Re-Lube Makeover… (breaking it and ordering a new one xD)
Has there ever been any discussion on if there will ever be heavier springs for the Lekker switches? I know wooting sells lighter springs but I've always preferred heavier than 60g. And I usually like my space bar heavier then my other switches. But all compatible springs I've found are magnetic and don't work well lol
any guide to buying aftermarket cables that will be compatible with tachyon mode?
im assuming any usb c to c cable will work,
and is usb c to usb 3 (blue) guaranteed to work?
usb c to usb 2 cables that support 1k hz should be hard to find right
You misunderstand the problem slightly - Tachyon works with any cable (provided it isn't downright shoddily made), it's the issue with having it on AND retaining full LED brightness that's the issue. Especially with cables longer than 6ft (coiled cables easily adding over 3 ft by themselves)
Do you know what the power requirement is in amps? It seems like it'd be easy to calculate and verify if a cable would work based on that.
Any cable.
It's ultimately more a question of voltage drop over length and gauge of wire if we're getting really technical. Amps will be identical across all cables, because of how USB handshakes.
About a million different websites.
It's a bit like asking where you can buy a car 😄
It has nothing to do with how USB hand shakes. The voltage drop is a result of how much current is being passed over the resistance of the cable. So if we know how much current a 60HE draws, we can calculate the required maximum cable resistance to hit a target voltage drop.
Yes - That is exactly how it works 😄
That's not a USB hand shake thing. That's an every wire thing.
USB adjusts the electrical current based on the handshake.
That's only for certain port types, though, right? So if you're plugging into a USB 2.0 port for example, that's not a thing right?
Yes it is. Always has been.
But to answer your question directly. USB 2.0 which is what we use for backwards compatibility, 5v 50mA.
No matter what cable you plug in, that's what the USB handshake will agree to send.
So then do we know what voltage is required at the keyboard to support tachyon + full brightness?
So to return to the original question - Having a cable that uses thicker gauge wires can help extend the sweet spot between fully working and "you're going to have to reduce the LED a bit"
But if you go longer than 6ft or so, expect problems.
I have a 1.6 Meter Straight-way cable with a quick release attachment from Cable Mod, they seem to have upgraded the quality of their wires. I had mine RMA'd and they replaced it with their current model of wires which seems to work perfectly fine.
I give the length because it is unusually short (it was how I ordered it even before I received my first Wooting 60HE), and something to take note of, you could go longer maybe? I couldn't say for sure.
Speaking of Cablemod. I have a 1.5m (they don't count the coiled part in uncoiled length) with no aviator, and it needs me to reduce brightness below 70% with Tachyon on. Otherwise it starts typing on its own.
When did you buy it?
My RMA was this year, they DEFINITELY changed the thickness of their custom cables since I ordered it last year.
Like... within the past month or so 😄
Try RMA'ing it.
But again - This could be a "worse" cable from a product that on paper is fine.
Maybe they're using thicker cables for RMA *?
I figured CableMod cables weren't specced high enough, but thought might as well, especially when the cable started having issues with my GMMK PRO as well. They sent somet thiccbois over
shrug
I only use the cable for testing. Also my LEDs are at like 20% normally anyway.
Hmmm
Yeah my LEDs are even completely off for my FPS/Tachyon mode. LEDs full brightness aren't all that important imo unless you're using backlit keycaps or an acrylic case. I wonder if there's a cable vendor that has consistently done well with Wooting though.
I just put my 60he into a monsgeek case. looks really pretty but the included foam doesnt and it frankly sounds dreadful. Pingy, clacky, clicky
DO I just find some thinner foam and hope?
Just had a very productive conversation with the included case foam and we came to an agreement that it does in fact fit.
Far better sound

Hey guys, longshot but does anybody have a set of the Wooting white PBT caps for UK ISO that they would like to sell or trade for a black set (mine are still sealed).
I didn't realise they did White until it was too late to change my order, and now they are backordered till May 🫤
I don‘t have any experience with that. There was a site saying that the keycaps only fit a certain switch now I’m confused 😵💫
Making dinner right now, so I can't give you a long explanation. But I'll swing by later if no one else have given you a quick intro,
That's a weird one, if I can get them quick I'll just put an order in now, but website making me believe late May 🤔
@fringe horizon Pretty much any keycap will work. There used to be an issue with some cherry profile keycaps that would occasionally have an issue with switches with north facing LED's, but seems to have been resolved by almost every keycap manufacturer and is relatively a non-issue. If you get extremely unlucky and have a clearance issue with your keycaps, you can simpley pull the switch out and turn it around so that the LED faces south. Stick to Cherry, OEM, SA or almost anything except low-profile and you'll most likely be just fine
Thanks G
Looking forward to buy blank pudding keycaps and a klippe T
Mark I see you typing! I'm starting to think you are holding on to my switch order until I fly to the Netherlands and pick them up
This is mine with puddings on John. The Wootings RGB brightness is next level too. 😁
Indeed they are out of stock. Not sure why the product status page doesn't reflect that. The ready date for the next batch at the manufacturer is on the 14th of this month, with the delivery date to our warehouse 6 weeks after that, via sea freight. Might be an opportunity to send a master carton or two via airfreight to get them a few weeks earlier but will need to take a look
Sheeesh
What's your order number?
Just sent you a DM
If you have any pure cotton shirts, you could try slipping one in there.
As long as you're careful about static (100% pure cotton usually won't have static electricity issues), they add a fairly tasteful layer of sound.






