#60he community modding
1 messages · Page 7 of 1
The Lekker switches use magnets to detect switch position. Strong magnets that levitate the PCB would effect them if the mounting isn't far enough away. Are you after feel or just the coolness?
how do i find a low profile 60he compatible case
PE foam mod, what do you think? I don't think i can hear any difference, no pop sound 😦
Not sure how/if that interferes with the magnet sensors, but it will definitely make the LEDs look different.
don't care about leds, the foam is about 1mm maybe 0.5mm when screwed
This looks like a fairly low density
Pe is made in open and closed cell variants
Owlabs for example ships fairly dense closed cell pe in a low thickness (I think 0.5mm) with their boards.
Still need to lube the switches, and I might change the springs aswell. Thinking of making my own custom cable for it too, now that my coiled cable doesn't work. Bummer
Tofu60 btw, and the $30 keycap set is from AliExpress, LMAO. Not bad at all
sik
what case is that?
Same as always … tofu60 this time time in acrylic
99% are tofu or blade
Maze64
Alu plate worked great
Zeal stabs
GMK Shoko
Aftermarket foam
Oring mount
Pe foam tape mod. No issues so far with 0.1mm
are switch films compatible with the lekker switches?
tried it and nope the lekker switches are too wide for traditional film
alrighty
i asked this before but didnt get an answer:
when looking at foam dampening, I should be looking at sounds tests based on the case, not the PCB/keyboard itself, right?
I think I‘m done for now 🙌
the cable is over 3m long for the height adjustable desk. Works with 100% rgb and tachyon without any problems. So I don't think coils are a problem either if the conductors are large enough.
yes alu plate rocks, I'm glad I went for that ... so much better than the wooting steel one.
I just calculated it ... I spent 991€ building this Wooting 60HE (not including, lube and tools).
time to add that 9€ worth of foam xD
Which keycaps are those? Looks clean!
pbtfans wob
(white on black)
There is no real benefit. Usually films help with top housing wobble but the lekker switches have little clamps that make contact with the plate and tighten everything up.
pe foam under the switches doesn't work for lekker as the switch is open on the bottom and I realized the center pole touches the foam when you fully bottom out
I ordered some leather punches
To make holes in the center of the foam
Like this
what about pe stickers? I have those already cut. But I saw a sound comparison video and they seem to give less pop sound. Do you think it's worth cutting all the holes by hand with a razer or should I just use the stickers?
it has to do with the cable thickness too according to keebstuff
works fine for me
Conductors are the wires inside the cable 😂 it’s about resistance / voltage drop off. But yes the one from keebstuff has thicker conductors and will work.
yeah i get that
The stickers are only right under the switches and have fairly thick backing layer. I bought PE foam from Korea … I will try it out when the cutting tools are here.
Then I can tell you
I have two foams. Maybe I will try one in the bottom of the case as well
I will switch the pcb foam to the kbd fans
The material is much better
But I need to make holes inside that as well
I will report back
The board sounds much better with the alu plate / without tray mount already
I am essentially using the same foam stack as the owlabs mr suit / jelly epoch at that point
That should be the best way to get a marbely / deeper sound
Awesome build! Where did you get the plate?
i had to drill into a normal one to add standoffs
I had to design my own plate for the gasket mount
I ordered from laserboost. Local places were way to busy
will this work? https://www.maxgaming.dk/dk/cases/aluminium-case-60-lilla
No idea - Supposedly it's from KBDfans, but I can't find the SKU on their site or by googling. It LOOKS compatible at a glance though
I don’t know. The picture looks like a 60% version of the Tada68. Which is a 65% case. The standoffs match the wooting / 60%.
I can’t find any info on this. The Tada has been discontinued for a long time.
Found this old page
I think this is from back when kbdfans used to be only a maker not a vendor themselves.
It should fit
Worst case you can order it when you have the 60HE, then make use of the 14 day return window if it doesn't.
If you have any issues it’s with the usb port clearance
Because the wooting 60he pcb is thicker
Than the references gh60/dz60
But you should be able to file it bigger
can we get a sound test of this beauty?🧐
So interesting that the alphas sound so thocky and the mods so hallow
I really like the alphas
Maybe I will tape mod
But first the foam xD
I did one layer of tape but thinking about adding 1 or 2 more
I will record mine in different states, when I have time
My mods sound much deeper than my alphas
Did you use a pe tape for the tape mod?
Or a layer of pe under the switches? Pe switch pads?
And what kind of case foam did you use?
deadfish foam, tempest tape mod and pe under switches. have been testing it all day at 0.1 and no issues so far gaming.
I had no issues with anything either
Everybody said you can’t plate swap it
You can’t use a long / coiled custom cable
xD
You can’t use alu
What if the gasket mount affects the switches
yeah mines stiff ASF bc of the tape mod and the stiffer foam both in-between the plate and under the pcb so alu is no issue
yeah idk where those rumors started
Wooting had a thinner pcb that flexed and created issues
But the plate / case has no real big impact on that
ooo the flex prob works in ur favor since all the flex cuts are by the gaskets. so the actual plate that covers the pcb wont flex as much
instead ur gonna feel that bounce thanks to the gaskets
Yeah that was the plan
The plate flex is all close to the gaskets
thats super nice, might have to do that n throw it into my qk60 or something
Maybe you have to straighten / de-burr the plate yourself
I had to do that
Because of different thermal expansion when lasercutting the fine features
And because laserboost sucks at surface finishing
You can even see the burrs xD
After sandblasting
I‘m just glad I could make it work
Maybe I will order a v2 of the plate at some point
Do some minor tuning
Doesn’t the qk60 come with a daughterboard?
I think you will have to take the usb port off the wooting and solder on some cables
But go for it
Tray mount sucks
The gasket mount is a huge improvement
If <@&375234916776017933> really want to help out modding the best thing they could do is add a jst connector to the back of the pcb and design the pcb to usw screw in stabs. At that point you can easily case swap into any 60%
Please don't tag staff at random.
Yes. Yes it is 
You can post feedback in the aptly named #archived_feed_us_back channel. Without tagging anyone.
here's someone's build with the same case in a different colour.
https://imgur.com/a/yAk1evP
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/wh7hfn/custom_wooting_60he/
I'm getting my 60HE soon and planning to put mine in the same case, but white. It fits a DH60 fine so I don't see why it wouldn't work with the 60HE.
this looks so ugly imo
it has a floating key cap design
Some people like that look. It is all preference after all
can you send a pic from the side? thanks :)
also now im just reconsidering which case to use really
should i go with aluminium or acrylic?
Would love to mod a alu case. But no idea where to begin 🤣
Wow, cool shit. I need this for my Fjell.
It's comfortable to type on which is the big benefit. I comfortably type 150WPM but I can't ever do that on a tofu because it's not comfortable. With a case like that you don't need a wrist rest to go with it
for people that aren't particularly fast typers and more interested in things like sound/aesthetic a case like that naturally wouldn't be appealing
it's just functional ¯_(ツ)_/¯
60HE finally here, got a whole day of modding ahead of me : )
Good luck my boyo may your build be solid and may your build be thocky
Never done any lubing ever and did it for the 60he earlier today
Totally underestimated how long it would take, ended up spending 4-5 hours on it
But the feel of it afterwards made it absolutely worth it
The long term difference is huge when you lube switches!
Apparently people tub lube stems as well as bag lubing springs for efficiency which imma try when I get my KB
Not sure if it'll be more/less uneven tho
If you bag lube stems you still wanna go over them with a brush so lube is more consistent across all stems
I wouldn't bag lube the stems of lekker switch stems tbh...
it would get on the magnet and might make a mess on the pcb - or worse maybe issues (I am not sure though)
Nothing like.a napkin with isopropyl alcohol won't solve
You'd uh... kind of melt the switch
Really? With just isopropyl?
no
it wont
isopropyl alochol is negatively charged
think about it
carbon is a negative ion
or well
its covalent
but its not going to want protons from the isopropyl alcohol
Isopropyl will literally weaken and breakdown plastics. Ask anyone who has ever tried applying it to plexiglass.
what platic are lekker switches made of
The isopropyl alcohol comes in a plastic container.
Yes - Obviously you can mix materials to avoid it. 😄
Hi! Just got my 60HE today, was wondering if its really necessary to remove the plate from the pcb to remove the switches or if its more like a pro tip
You'll hate yourself for not spending the minute or so it takes to screw the PCBA apart if you pulling more than a handful of switches. It is SO much easier.
This is my first custom experience so was thinking of tryna lube it all, so remove the plate then?
Only thing keeping me back is thinking its scary
Oh heck to the yes. Follow Calder's instructions in the video we have on YT 😄
It's easy - Just takes time.
Will do, thanks! 🙂
Most switches uses Polycarbonate for the stems - Which is on the "severe reaction" side of things when it comes to Isopropyl.
oh
Any reason why if they aren't clear?
Maybe for the surface finish (smooth).
I don't make the laws of physics. 
its colored lol
But Wooting did spec out a custom switch and used polycarbonate.
I used Plexi as a visual example. 🙂
pure polycarb should be a clear thermoplastic
oh
Sorry, I meant why do most switches use polycarb for stems that aren't clear anyways?
At any rate why would you use/need isopropyl to clean anything involved in a keyboard? Just use a bit of soapy water.
if anything seperate the plate from the switches and clean them seperately for little risk 
Heatkiller has some fancy borosilicate glass reservoirs u know... just in case u wanna rub your tube with isopropyl again 
... heresy...
The Cyberduck was expensive and time consuming to build. And I do not have any plans for upgrades anytime soon xD
It's actually just purple clear. The reservoir just makes it look opaque (used to have EK's RGB Fog, but it literally broke apart and killed the loop)
No wonder, thats more of a show coolant not long use
It was marketed as fulltime use.
Well IS - I just got a bad batch. But EK were nice enough to replace both the CPU and GPU blocks.
What in tarnation is that double looped cable on the PSU shroud? 😄
That has been cable managed, was running the usb connection for the pump
ahh yea, that's what I figured...shame because these hall effect switches have ruined me for every other cherry stem switch lol
Related to tub lubing the stems of switches then using isopropyl alcohol to clean off the area where the magnets would be (so as to not interfere with the sensors) and the + stem
Though since the sensors are related to the magnets on the switches having lube on the stems wouldn't affect anything though, no?
quick question guys, what are the biggest differences between the freebird60 and tofu60?
Removing the switches is extremely difficult on some switches
Bending the top housing on 6-7 switches out of the whole board
Tofu 60 case swapped, lubed, foam, and tape mod 1 layer.
Did you screw the top plate off of the PCBA?
isn't there a video about that? like "How to lube switches" from wooting where they explain that?
Sure is.
Yep, the switches were just so tight in the aluminum plate that I had to pry several out from both sides
Im having issues with the spacebar being too heavy for the lekker switches. I saw hipyo tech had a similar issue. What springs did you use?
They shipped with 70g switches for the spacebar. Does the 5g really make the difference?
If so, that sucks :(
for those that have swapped to aluminum plate, is it worth?
I’m using the lekker switching and having no problems , thankfully it seems I got a good batch
With the cerakey keycaps?
Yeah
What color did you get? I got white. I wonder if different colors have different weights.
I found a really good solution for anyone else that might run into this issue. The 'realforce topre spacebar spring' is a short, fat, spring that's only 20g and fits perfectly over the spacebar stabilizers, and 2 of them combined is effectively adding the force of 1 extra switch.
I happened to have a couple of them around but you can find them online for around $5.
guys, is the wooting poron plate foam open-cell or closed-cell?
what about EVA foam, is there an open cell variant of it and where can i get it?
What mods u do? Sounds nice
Not much, gummy mount, standard foam, krytox lube stabs and switches
extra spring weight on larger keys
extra spring weight? how did you do it
hey i have a question. so say i am going to put a 60he on a third party case with incompatible standoff locations. assuming everything else is compatible (60%, same usb hole location), i could just gummy mount it and it would pretty much fit in, right?
The PCB has all components on the bottom. Do not try and mount it with anything touching it anywhere but the standoffs in correct positions unless you want s dead board
but a gummy mount will place the pcb well above the standoffs and have them untouched right? since the entire assembly would be pretty much floating
can you tell me how was it for you?
Typing on it will press it against the standoffs
Just think of it this way, yes it can float but gummy o ring mounts still press down completely
found this cheap ass 25$ cnc aluminium case
what a shame
idk how i would cut the standoffs
Could use a dremel to cut the stand offs
Has anyone tried to paint the strap?
Which half?
You'd probably be better off dyeing it. It's not really a paintable material.
Unless we're talking watercolours I suppose, though those will struggle with saturation
what caps are those?
I purchased non-magnetic springs that used thicker wire
Two different lengths. 15mm and 20mm
I used 20mm for the 17g 6.25u spacebar and 15mm for the 2.25u, 2u, and 1.75 u mods
sounds awesome, I like the contrasting case/keys :)
The shift keys are loose 🙂 but the rest is nice and tight and feels amazing to type on
I need to use tape to make the stabilizers fit better on the shift keys
I’ll experiment another day though
why heavier springs though
wouldn't it make more sense to use lighter springs so the larger keys' actuation force would be more uniform with the 1u keys?
No
What mods did u do the the keyboard to make it sound that good with a aluminum case and ceramic keycaps
No mods, just lubed stabs and switches and a few gummy o-rings on the standoffs
I kept the original foam from the wooting
pbtfans neon
not bad
Where u get the o ring. I’m tryna find some
I got an O-ring kit on amazon but keybored shared his link on his Tofu65 video
Since I have shared the TOFU65 Typing test video, I have received a quite a few requests to make a tutorial on how I O-Ring mounted my TOFU65, and made it sound the way it does. So here it is! The tutorial video on how to achieve the best sounding TOFU!
Link to the Typing Test Video!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsttSeoBGl8
Not only does ...
It is a massive pain in the ass to do, fair warning
O rings are linked in the description. $5.49 US
Any tips for a beginner and pulling switches for the ones that don’t want to come out easy? Lol
remove the plate from the pcb so you can push them out the back
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WN_-GYLTfpY
Calder explains it here - As Teo points out, screwing the PCBA makes it a lot easier to pop off switches when it's just the plate.
Always wondered how you can lubricate your lekker switches or grease your stabilizer wire. In this video, we will deep dive on different methods of lubing and some general tips and tricks. Using the Wooting 60HE.
Krytox GPL 205G0 and Molykote EM-50L lubricant:
https://region.wooting.store/products/lubrication-set-krytox-205g0-molykote-em-50l
:...
i need these keycaps. stop making me jealous!
Did u burger mount it or just balance the orings on the standoffs?
Burger mount!
??? THATS WHAT A BURGER MOUNT IS FOR
Watch this, best burger mount video out there
As long as you dampen the metallic hollow sound of a alu case (whatever other metal) even without a burger mount you can still get away with no metallic sounds
Thank u thank h
(thats also the video savage mentioned)
I need to stop looking at keycaps or I'm just going to keep buying them
Wooting 60HE in a Tofu 60 cnc'd case, Lubed with Krytox 305 g0, swapped to 40g springs, Durock stabilizers lubed, tape mod, Sound dampened, and blank cerakey ceramic keycaps. Still waiting on wrist rest, custom cable, and artisan accent keycaps 🙂
need a sound test, awesome setup!!
anyone else find the switches to have a weird like sort of tinny noise
Any good mod more sound that are super easy other than lubing and tape mod ( and obviously case foam(
Has anyone done mod to make it as silent as possible? Or what would be recommendations to do so - which case, dampers, etc…
you went for lighter springs? Even with the 50 cN springs I can feel the slower return of the cerakeys compared to the stock OEM keycaps that came with the board
Do you like the feel of it? How does it sound?
You can try to silicone mod your case
Hey, guys! I decided to show you DIY-ers how to make your own silicone dampener to get rid of that pesky keyboard reverb. This is a very simple process and doesn't take long at all, and the result is very clean and professional-looking.
Let me know what you think in the comments!
--
Silicone Mold Kit: https://amzn.to/38H3qSP
--
Video Equip...
Wooting60HE PCB w/ GMK Dualshots R1 on KBDFans Tofu60 - XHT BDZ on Stabilizers with Carbon GS2 on Lekker switches - just need to silicone mod the case - Ohh and RAMA Works X GMK Deku Keycap
when a single keycap cost as much as the board itself rip
About Fjell is known in the community for its sound properties, design language, and compatibility. In addition, with more color and kit options available than ever before, you get the complete package from Mekanisk.com. At almost 2000g, this keyboard offers a heavy, great-feeling 60% keyboard experience to place on yo
Hoping to put these two together soon. Wish me luck lol
car sound deadener in case
just cut to size
Personally for me the 40g springs gave it the feeling I wanted. The only issue at all that I ran into using 40 & 50g springs is that the spacebar was too heavy and required 2 springs to work.
Super interesting, how did you manage two springs? Stacked on one another?
Overall tho it feels amazing and the sound is nice. VERY thoccy to say the least. If I could use the O rings on them it would be even more thoccy
And yeah I took two springs and basically just pushed them inside one another
No issues for performance for any of the mods I’ve had to do for this to work
The Cerakeys were loose for me and the tape mod to tighten them didn’t work for me (they would stick when you bottomed out) but I found that using a hot glue gun and putting a dab on the tip of the stem works perfectly. It’ll fill in the gaps but it’s adhesive sucks enough to where it drys fast and you can still remove the keycaps. Not every Wooting & Cerakey owner I’ve talked to got loose Keycaps tho
Interesting, I should get some hot glue
my A key is loose, although it sticks pretty well with a sticky label that came with the novelkeys switch container
Sounds like a lube job and some switch pads are in my future from the sounds of this
If you do make sure that the glue does get inside the housing 🙂
i did lube
Inside and springs too?
sorry if this has been asked before but has anyone had experience desoldering the usbc port on the pcb and turning it into a jst connector?
wanted to put the wooting60 pcb into something like a unikorn, brutal v2 60 when it comes out, etc
got my 60he today, feels like butter, but after going a few yrs with white shinethrough on my corsair k65, I find it so hard to see the black keys at night. Any recommendations for clean white shine-through caps? Currently considering the akko pbt set for 30usd
Oh yeah, lube and band-aid those stabs
I did lube🤦🏾
Shit.... Well short of band-aid mod I'm not sure what else you can do
yo is the wooting plate foam open cell or close cell
Can some1 give recomendations what would be the most impactufull things to do to to make the 60he more silent? Please and thank you ofcourse.
Try the ones from Ducky. The font is very clean and crisp and the quality is top notch.
use top or bottom lights for monitor - it works really nice
I'm probs gunna go with white caps, I like gaming in the dark at night, but for now I adjusted the default static rainbow effect to be all lighter blue in the main gaming keys, makes it much easier to see
I bought this set of keycaps for my wooting
cus i like blank keycaps
but
they're really lose on the stems
ive 9 blank keycaps
for how much u bought this
32€
how thick are those keycapsd
not super thick
expensive. i can get this for much cheaper
but decently thick
mine are all 1,5mm
well, I couldn't find a better alternative, didn't really know where to look though in the first place
uve a link?
I'll do a pic tomorrow if I don't forget it of my keycaps (blank) and maybe u like em
these are so loose on the stems that they actually feel bad
lemme dm u a . and I'll link u up if u like em
40g springs? where did you get it from?
Has anyone tried using switch pads with the wooting? Will it be an issue or mess with the actuation points
Glarxes done it said no problem at all
ordered heisenberg keycaps and a black tofu60 for mine
The thing that annoys me the most is the sound when they switch get back to unpressed state
When it like hit the top
was it just the spacebar that you had to double spring? thinking of hopping on the cerakey gang
Where did you get the plate for this?
Finally got my board, the RGB is pretty insane with cerakeys 
I only put the spacebar + esc on to see how it is since I won't have time to mod the whole board until hopefully this weekend or next, but the dual colours on the spacebar looks awesome IMO
oh and the switches are pretty insane
really awesome to type on
i forget
looks really cool
is it highly recommended to grease the stabs w the molykote em-50L that wooting sells or have people found success using other stuff like just 205g0
ahhh i see, thanks for the quick response!
Waiting on a new white back-lit key set with standard bottom row, using my old corsair pbt set in meantime where I can
Wootings own set is available
tbh while they sound and feel nice, I found the legends small/thin
on the wooting caps
Makes sense
shinethrough keycaps are usually like that
I'm not even going to use backlit caps, I think I just liked the idea of them
I have a set that'll match my snackbags
unless you have these geriatric corsair keys lol, which I no shame realize I love how easy they are to read
its like large font mode for old people and im here for it
Can't argue with that lol
plus after over 3 months of waiting for the board, import fees to canada etc, I just wanna go to a local store 😅
Just a shame the Corsair PBT keycaps have slight fit issues .. or tolerances too wide.
I had to shave the front edge of my Spacebar today, because it was scratching against one of my keyboards.
(and the wooting keycaps don't feel nice or sound nice at ll 😅 )
correction ://blank keycaps - don't know the ansi ones
Literally took a sharp scissor and shaved it down 😄
I'm just happy I ordered mine at a time where I'm getting mine in less than 2 months
I think they sound really good. Their angle threw me off tho I found it really hard to type
But also it should be arriving in the US today via air freight, I'm really hoping they're out by the 20th so I can have a 4 day weekend customizing it and playing around lol
https://vortexgear.store/products/vtk-9009-keys?variant=42621347233955
I would recommend those
for people who like retro keycaps
※Only Keycaps Are Included (Keycap puller is not included) Specifications: Total Keys: 87 keys Material: PBT material Profile: OEM Profile Production Method: Dye-Sub Weight: 500 (g) ± 10 Thickness: 1.5 mm Compatibility Cherry MX switches and MX-style clones The Kit includes - Space bar ( 6.25u / 7u ) , Shift ( 1u /2u /
if you like oem though
they are cheap but nice
another cheap but nice one is kbfans cement grey - eloquentclicks have it too
I prefer XMI's retro set. But that's an opinion, not fact 😄
the price difference is big though
and they have nordeuk too
plus 1.5mm thick is really good for the price
What's a good keycap set to accent the snackbag you think?
still retro - you can go like 9009 style
or dolch maybe
the green of snackbag is not pastel though - I don't know
I had this dark 9009 and used orange accents instead of the pink it has
I thought you can use the greens
but like I said - it might be too in your face in a retro theme
Where did you buy your commodore themed BBox60?
It was not easy. You can get it on Ali but at a markup. I found one pre-owned on a keyboard enthusiast discord.
@zinc ice
Nice
There is a site where you can print keycaps
But the shipping would be pricey for non us people
I would use one though - for like esc key or delete key
that's how it's rn
The artisan keycap suits the others pretty well
There are no azerty of those, that i could find
Gg
I use Turkish Q - there is literally none 🙂
so touchtyping is your friend 🙂
You never struggle to find them?
For french accents and ponctuations, i sometime need to look at the keyboard
it might motivate you to memorize maybe if it was not written on the keyboard
is wooting your main keyboard?
you could at least use wooting with keycaps you like if not
Yrp
But i can type fast without looking at it
But just sometimes, it happens and i get lost
🙂 you gotta challenge yourself to pass that barrier 😄
I will play one round of valorant now
I am playing for three days now - and it's kinda growing on me
just takes too much time for a single match
Does anyone know if there is any company that makes switch films for the lekker switches yet?
They are a bit wobbly and regular switch films dont fit as theyre too small..
Any thick bezel 60s? I'm talking like Grid 600 but accessible...
Best mod I’ve done so far is add New stabilizers - everglide panda v3’s with holee mod
Sound is off my phone and is a lot higher pitched than in person. In person sound is much squishy with 0 rattle noises
Forgot to film a before 👎
what profile does the 60he use for the keycaps?
I'm interested in this too, but it'd take a specific film made for the switch or one that's too large for other switches, no?
there could also be issues with actuation distance etc. but it shouldn't be major if we do end up finding films
OEM
lubed keyboard today first time, it took me like 4 hours from start to finish and now my thumbs hurt 😂
sounds and feels amazing now tho, deffo worth it!
heya do you by any chance know who that person was
Scroll up in the chat, he should be there somewhere
Yeah I tried with durock switch films and they are too small, would require a slightly larger film size.
I don’t think there will be any actuation issues because the film is usually very slim and if you take a switch now and wiggle it there is a very very tiny- almost hairlike gap between the bottom and top housing. But each switch may vary I assume

speed demon here
give us that machinegun soundtest
gonna mod the kb over the weekend, I'll make sure to get a soundtest then :')
Any reason not to spray paint the plate? Interested in painting it silver
found em
it already has really tight fit with the switches
and paint would add mm to the plate - might get impossible to put the switches or take them out
you might wanna put tape on the places where the switches are gonna sit
Wooting and hardware store
The spacebar and backspace 🙂
But now that everything is working, it’s flawless
wooting sells 40g now??
No.
I used a combination of the stock wooting springs and some springs from a hardware store
I love the little pochita keycaps!!!

Just got mine yesterday… crazy this is a gaming board…
Welp… i hate it
Has anyone filmed their switches or does it mess with the leckers tolerance?
I'm pretty sure the switch rails don't give films enough horizontal clearance to be used in general, let alone mess the vertical tolerance of the hall effect mechanism
Thanks!
would it be possible to use heavy keycaps such as the cerakey ceramic keycaps?
I had a bit of a QC issue with my cerakeys
but I'm glad to have finally gotten my keyboard!
I also broke my all-time record from 167 to 179 with cerakeys and a case swap...
keyboard definitely meets the hype! 
I was too lazy to switch the stabs/mod the switches so no modded sound test just yet, soon^TM
my left ear is satisfied
LOL I JUST REALISED THE CHANNELS WERE MESSED UP
my apologies, next one will be properly balanced :')
you can have this :')
Switched out of the Tofu60 and into this:
Oh god. Please tell me you cut the superfluous standoffs
Or used the brass extenders at least.
Lol no i didnt it works though
I just taped the bottom and have o rings
So it doesn’t touch the othera
S
It's not about touching. It's about pressure and breaking components
Orings? No no no
The standoff sockets that the board doesn't screw into HAVE to be completely gone, unless you use the included brass extenders from the case.
Use these to be safe, but be unable to use the USB plug on the back.
Or take tools and cut/snap the other standoffs off. Not doing this is how you killed your board.
Did yours break when you screwed it in?
Mine worked but i rescrewed it in to fix something, hopefully it still works, I havent retested 😳
Trust me - Not worth waiting weeks of RMA and having to pay for a new PCBA to risk it.
Snap them off, or use the brass extenders and ignore the round USB plug.
I used the brass at first but i wanted to use the usb plug
I have to but dremel cutters im too weak
Buy*
You will - literally puncture components and most likely instantly kill the PCB, if you install it without the brass extenders or without removing the standoffs the PCB doesn't use. Several of the superfluous ones jam right into essential chips.
Okay I will do it after testing if it still works
Still works luckily
I was trying to use the KPRepublic PSD60 Gasket case for my 60HE build but it ended up having problems with the plate. They said it was not meant for plate stabs even though it has cutouts for it... So, I went with a Fjell Ultrahot instead with GMK Laser R1. Replaced the stabs with NK plate stabs and lubed everything with 205g0.
On top of O-rings, are there any fool-proof methods for sound dampening? No soldering or anything crazy, literally fool proof.
In the stock case? Not really sure - Not room for more foam there. But most 3rd party cases will be kind of hollow and could do with padding.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igy_n3f7VeI
This video covers a lot of modding.
Check out the Fractal Design Meshify Lite case here! - https://bit.ly/meshifylite
👇 PULL IT DOWN FOR THE GOOD STUFF 👇
Finally getting under the hood of the Wooting 60HE. We're gonna talk best practices for the Lekker switch, swap it into a Tofu 60 case, we'll talk stabilizers, case dampening, and how to get the best sound out of your keycaps.
✅...
Cheers
2.5
30A
hows the space bar with stock spring?
It does feel sliiiiiiiiightly like it's too heavy but stock springs and stabs I haven't had any issues. I'm going to install Asceny stabs at the same time as when I lube my switches so I hope those are just as good.
People have been having a lot of QC issues with Cerakey like keys loose, popping off etc but their support team said they'd ship out keys for me so I'm not complaining. I think that QC issues might be why people are having spacebar troubles
Easy mod besides O-Rings is the tape modding the back of your PCB. Just get some painters/masking tape and cover the back of it.
i just know its heavy and was wondering how the spring took it
that kinda sucks that they have fitting issues too
for those that used a FB60, how did you guys screw the PCB down into the case? holes align but not very well
Interesting, thanks!
anyone know a case that has like a 5* angle?
dont....dont do it 
So glad it's finally here! Put it into a blade60 and used akko wave keycaps for an <almost> EVA-01 colourscheme
You cray. I think Wooting’s default caps are the best PBT backlit keys I’ve used IMO.
I don't like backlit keycaps at all
maybe that's why
and compared the other aspects of keycaps like feel and sound (if you disregard the fact that they are backlit)
you can't compare it to even any normal budget keycap
but if you must have backlit - maybe then they are a good choice - I don't know about that
I think for backlit
They're probably the best I've seen
Granted, I m using GMK Belafonte
but yeah
yeah, I am using pbtfans neon - the difference is day and night
True! A couple of us found other solutions but I don’t recommend Cerakey for beginners. If you have experience and money then it’s a combo like no other 🙂
yeah my spacebar has started popping off of the stabs after about 2 days of use... 
shame about the QC because they're insane caps
Hot glue ftw
This is cursed.
Is there any way to dampen the sound of a key going back up? That's been by far the loudest part of my cherry mx red keyboard that I've used over the course of the last year
(I would of course apply the sound dampening to my wooting 60he)
heavier keycaps perhaps?
/ thicker i mean
if you are ok with changing the switches - there are semi silent switches just for that purpose
I'm getting the a wooting specifically for the analogue switches, so no.
:S
I thought you are talking about cherry mx red switches?
you can't change lekker switches anyways
I've used cherry mx reds since I was tired of trolling with browns, same story now, wooting is objectively better so I'm switching to that, but I'm still looking to minimize noise
you can't put a traditional mx switch on to the wooting pcb
it doesn't have the slots for the pins
Without the cost of performance
you would scratch the pcb and bent the switches
wdym it can be can be changed to Mx profile?
please never ever do that
it can't be - ignore
I was hella confused lmao
I thought there was a secret underground Lekker mod I didn't know about 
for the lekkers there is no possible way to dampen upstroke without effecting the performance
for already existing mx style switches: there is a way which would take so many hours that you would probably prefer buying semi silent switches instead
But the switches aren't causing the noise
upstroke noise is caused by the switch amplified by the rest
in fact 99% percent of the sound is switch sound carried out the keyboard
Really? Doesn't seem like it by ear, but okay
the blue thing is soft dampener to minimize the sound
when you have that it makes so less sound it's not even noticeable
Pressing a key basically generates no noise, so I guess there was some weird logic in my head that made me think the switch would also be silent when going up
And there's no way to have that on Lekker switches?
you could - it would be very delicate and long work
but the switch would think it's pressed when it's not
you should do it so precise 0.1mm thin dampener
so that it could calibrate - but still then it wouldn't work as much
you would use it with headsets probably 😄 so wouldn't be such a problem
I care about my housemates too
my problem with it is the stem wobble which sounds like the keys are shaking
I guess if they make a v2 of lekker switches with that issue fixed - I would definetely buy it
At least I'll allready be significantly less annoying by putting on 2.5
30a o-rings
Just prevents bottoming out noise
Sure, can feel mushy if you push you key down that much, but I don't
Pretty good typing experience with mx reds
would you be able to go 4mm with it?
Maybe, but that does slightly limit the analogue range
Probably possible, though
Also maybe I can silence the switch noise ringing through the keycaps by filling the keycaps with cotton or something
Absolute violation
(Cardboard could be better because of the triangular shape)
finally case swapped mine. did tape mod and burger mount, i'm not sure burger is worth the trouble but it's done
Yeah seems tape, foam and lube are the biggest game changers
yeah, the sound isn't quite where i'd like - if i pull the pcb again i''m pretty certain i won't bother with the silicone washers again
I'm debating even swapping cases on mine and just going for tape and maybe some more foam
i found the stock case would slowly slide away from me on my desk, the heavier aluminum case with rubber feet stays put
Well, that seals it lol
burger mount shouldnt be any trouble
Hello, I just got my Wooting 60HE keyboard and changed the keycaps to a red color theme along with the RGB lighting and now the cable is yellow so I want to change it. My question is, what cables work because I heard I shouldn't use the coiled ones since the keyboard needs a lot of power delivery when using 100% RBG lighting with Tachyon mode which I am using. I was thinking of getting a cable from Mechcables, one without coils or detachable connectors. Please advise me if this is a good option. Thank you
https://mechcables.com/products/mechcables-custom-cable
do you have any pictures of the keyboard above the 60he?
Of you run a cable that is to long it may not work I think
Tofu65. Banana splits. Very poppy. Quite nice.
Changed out the spacebar from my nautilus set. Eventually, I’ll switch the case out for my Fjell
Brazen60 case fits if you want to add it to list
thanks
Google doesn't recognise the name "Brazen60" at all.
Ooh it's mason60 by brazen
Ah that makes sense. Thanks for clarifying. 😄
Yo guys, do you think that stabilizer switch films will make any difference sound signature wise ?
It could be help, to get them more thocky right ?
A deeper sound
does anyone have the tai-hao exotic pbt keycaps on the 60he that I can see? I'm thinking about getting them for my keeb
whattup gamers, I purchased a 60he and I want to move it to an aluminum cases. Any suggestions? I don't really want to mess with anything else. Ty love you all happy holidays
Tofu is a popular and not super expensive choice. Here's a list of cases we know have been tested. 🙂
Submit or request a review of a case by adding a comment or posting on discord
thank you Mansen, I appreciate it. Joy and merriment to you and your loved ones.

can i just plug and play wit the tofu? should i do anything else for the QoL for the keyboard?
i have unlimited disposable income so whatever is fine
The Blade case is more expensive but also a potential choice. I think there are some youtube videos of the 60HE in it?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igy_n3f7VeI
(Can't remember if this one has that specific case, but he does show two cases I think)
Check out the Fractal Design Meshify Lite case here! - https://bit.ly/meshifylite
👇 PULL IT DOWN FOR THE GOOD STUFF 👇
Finally getting under the hood of the Wooting 60HE. We're gonna talk best practices for the Lekker switch, swap it into a Tofu 60 case, we'll talk stabilizers, case dampening, and how to get the best sound out of your keycaps.
✅...
Dumb question, will I be able to swap out the plate for a brass one?
Yes, if it happens to match up. I know at least one member here who made one.
Ty! Specifically this one; https://kbdfans.com/products/dz60-cnc-brass-60-plate
Plate-A(left shift is 2U)It's not compatible with DZ60RGB v2/ DZ60RGB-ANSI PCB TRANSLATE with x English Arabic Hebrew Polish Bulgarian Hindi Portuguese Catalan Hmong Daw Romanian Chinese Simplified Hungarian Russian Chinese Traditional Indonesian Slovak Czech Italian Slovenian Danish Japanese Spanish Dutch Klingon Swe
Hello! Bought myself a wooting 60he for xmas and was keen on the tofu walnut o-ring case, but looks like it has now been discontinued 😭 with no plans to restock.
Any recommendations for other wood cases? I've got my eye on this but not sure if the wooting will fit.
https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/1185916625/gh60annegk61-1-walnut-woodkeyboard-case?ref=share_v4_lx&fbclid=IwAR1DWXGZngJEydHbF7TsxcN3kxnRE6GmIZu-Rrq0d39dlh6uiDLRgmMil3M&variation0=2528040155
I see the case compatibility link, but does anyone have the PCB dimensions?
Thanks. Will try there as well!
Regarding the etsy keyboard above: Is there a way to find out if the the wooting 60he will fit in that case? (It looks pretty nice). Also I'm unfamiliar with o-ring mounting. **Can I add o-rings to the above esty keyboard **or does that only on specific cases?
Hey guys. I don't think this case is on the list. At least it wasn't when I ordered my keyboard. It's the Melgeek Mojo 60 and it fit without issue. I am also using a Cablemod coiled cable until my custom comes in and it seems to not have any problems with tachyon mode with 100% RGB or any other settings. Edit- I just realized that my ? key was somehow sideways in the pic lol
The PCB is a standard layout so there shouldn't be much trouble in most cases as long as they're 60%. Regular o ring mount is just putting an Oring anywhere where the screw that attaches the keyboard to the case. You put one under the screw head on top of the PCB and one on the other side of the PCB. It's like an o ring sandwich with the PCB in the middle It's meant to give a more gasket like typing feeling
Absolutely amazing build, could you please let me know what you did to make this mod?
do cherry caps have a better typing experience than XDA's, because of the slant, or is it 100% preference?
Are there any wood cases in stock anywhere? The tofu 60 wood seemingly doesn't exist lol
Fjell
Yes
But also no
Get you some good cherry stabs and lube them appropriately and you'll be just fine
I got a wood tofu-style case a while back but it got warped in transit or something so I'm working with this (swapped into a fjell) until i get around to straightening that out somehow (heat + a vice I guess..?)
I'll note the feeling of the 8 degree typing angle, it is mmm... A preference
Toughts ?
Hi guys, can anyone tell me about the strap size / parameters? I love the idea , but don't like the color. Planing to buy something similar in green, but I'd like to know and order it before my keyboard arrives.
OMG can I ask where you got those keycaps?
The strap is just over 1" wide and it's about 10.5" long when it's straight or 5.3" folded once (like when attached). It's about 0.078" thick.
nice caps, what are they called 
gmk dots r2 💸
Love these caps
Thank you! 🥰
i see some peoples post with wooting 60he that they have a coiled cable, are they Glorious coiled? I thought coiled in general did not have enough throughput to power the board?
Probably they don't use it with 100% RGB on.
I use the glorious coiled cable and it seems to be working fine, i heard someone say anything under 2m cable lenght should be fine.
It depends if the cable can provide enough power to the keyboard
Keep in mind that a coil is often near a full meter of cable length by itself.
Yeah i checked the specs for glorious.
Total Cable Length (including coils): 4.5 ft
== 1.37m
What's your guys opinions on 8 degree typing angle? Thinking of grabbing a Klippe T but not sure if it'll be uncomfortable coming from a gmmk pro which is only 6 degree
This guy's selling a bunch of nice 60 percent cases for anyone interested. Pretty cheap prices too
@lunar timber remember u were interested in the walnut case
Too bad buying from reddit is shady
The same can be said for buying anything second hand anywhere
I much prefer buying on Reddit compared to anywhere else
Prices are always cheaper because don't have to deal with fees besides shipping and PayPal
I have both a Glorious and Cablemod coiled cable with aviator connector and both seem to work fine with tachyon mode and 100% RGB. Both are very available on Amazon too but, I'm still waiting on my custom straight cable to come in. I would say also, that these boards are super bright. Maybe the brightest keyboard that I've had. So I run it lower anyways even with GMK keycaps.
@pure rootDid you turn your switches south facing for gmk keycaps?
yes I did but, in truth I didn't try them north facing so I don't know if there's any difference
Is the "Take Control" keycap set still in the works? @hybrid rapids @fresh jackal
Yes, we're working on final packaging.
anyone from south east asia have experience ordering in stock keycaps from drop?
Singaporean here, drop uses economy shipping which is crazily sluggish, but you'll get your items 1 month later
Thanks for the reply man, I ordered the gmk red samurai 2 weeks ago and have no updates on my shipping
Can't believe shipping costs 20usd for that
It's crazy how they do not offer more than just 1 shipping options
any compatibility issues with SA keycaps?
I'm about to order a klippe t but I've been using 6 degree until now. How bad is it really?
I think it'll just need a little time to get used to, like slightly changing where I normally position my (left) hand above the keyboard
- Also worth noting that I'm coming from a tented split keyboard, so maybe assume I'm being much more annoying about these kind of thing 🙃
Oh, but do you have any issues with strains or discomfort in wrists from the higher angle?
If I'm on WASD there's not much of an issue with wrist strain for me, but the biggest thing is when hitting the top/number row - since they're higher, my finger will catch on the bottom lip of the keycap if they're not arched as high as they should be
But that won't be as bad if you're already using cherry profile, I guess
At the end of the day 8deg isn't a dealbreaker imo but more noticeable than I thought
(but would I get another 8 degree keyboard? personally nah lol)
Honestly i think it would be cool if wooting made a custom tsangan/wkl pcb for lekker switches for us to buy
Like am I the only one who doesn't like a standard bottom row?
Can anyone confirm if switch pads are a good call for sound dampening and doesn't affect the hall effect?
Anyone know of a compatible case that has a stepped design like this in silver? Closest so far is Maze64 but they're only black or white
100x THIS
I would kill to have a 60he that could fit in a brutal60
Give me a lekker compatible wkl pcb with flex cuts and I would never buy another keyboard again
So sexy
I want it to fit in my kei
Does anyone have suggestions for a white case that isn't the Tofu e-white 60%? I can't find another one that has good quality.
Maze64
I asked in another channel a few hours ago with no response so maybe I need to try here:
Im looking to match the HE60 sound closer to some of my custom boards. Two quick questions. 1. Is there room in the stock case for burger mod? 2. Since the black Tofo60 cases seem to be sold out will this work? https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801297436744.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.8af96fb4xEXFP2&algo_pvid=32611231-5505-459a-bac7-7409be8807cc&algo_exp_id=32611231-5505-459a-bac7-7409be8807cc-5&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000016293856923"}&pdp_npi=2%40dis!USD!59.8!59.8!!!!!%402101e9ce16722589495437999e6f4e!12000016293856923!sea&curPageLogUid=veIasVYf7smq
Klippe T
What custom cables have people in here used, that works with Taychon mode on and RGB?
Just the standard wooting one
Switched to a Tofu 60, Tape modded and used Silicon O Rings to mount the pcb and got new Keycaps
W modded keyboard
Has anyone managed to find a way to film the lekker switches
Depends on what you're trying to do I suppose.
willing to pay premium for burgundy tofu case....cant find them anywhere
E-hot klippe T is in stock for similar case
Definitely paying a premium though with 40$ shipping
you seling the burgundy one?
Not mine, just one of good red builds I've seen
https://mekanisk.com/products/klippe-t-keyboard-case-only they have all colors in stock
Specifications Size 60% keyboard Compatibility 60% poker / tray mount Weight Approx. 1 kg Screw size M2x5mm Material Aircraft-grade aluminium In the box Klippe T Keyboard Chassis with all mounting hardware and pre-installed viewfinder bumpons High-quality packaging Finish The keyboard can have anodizing hook marks on t
Oh but the red is marked last stock
Sorry 😅
I'm kinda new to modding but would this be where i ask if there's any special specs on wooting 60he for if i wanted to get custom keycaps?
Did you guys hear more pingy sounds when you spring swapped the lekker switches?
I feel like mine is noticeably louder
Did you relube?
Yeah I bag lubed them with gpl105
Bag...lubed... them. Well that's a new one. Sounds very wasteful 😄
Lol, not wasteful just cuts down on the time it takes to individually lube each one
I did also try that with 205g0 and the gpl105 but the sound profile was still very much different
Your dime I guess.
Any ideas on how to get them to sound less pingy?
got my fr4 plate made for the wooting but now realizing that I can't screw the plate together with the pcb. Anything I can do here?
What's preventing you?
it looks like the original plate has integrated screw points
bad picture, but these look to be holding the pcb and plate in place
My plate doesn't have these but do have the holes for them
are there any third party "screw holes" I can use to accept them into the new plate? Sorry if wrong terminology
This sounds like it would solve my issue entirely. Did you have any issues since then with rapid trigger/any wooting related features?
And it's all done
Admittedly, I kinda hate that I modded it lol
I'll probably end up lubing the 60s and putting the snackbag switches onto the stock ones.
definitely should have lubed
Lol I ended up doing it tonight but yes, lubed 60's >>>> lubed 50s, the resistance goes away pretty quickly and makes for a better typing experience from the jump
No problems with brass, let me know how fr4 goes
Done for now. Lubed the switches and instead of o ring mount in the tofu I cut poron gaskets to fit both sides of some longer m2 screws.
Sound test? 👀
Was experimenting with my two kbdfans cases
Their bamboo one works like a swell, requiring no modifications and is a drop in replacement. Only downside is now I can't fit the keyboard in the carrying case!
The frosted resin one looks cool, but I'm not comfortable with the build tolerance:
- The Wooting OEM screws are too short for that case and you'll have to use their screws, which have smaller screw heads
- You'll have to apply some force when screwing in the center and spacebar screws, and it turned out to cause the keyboard module to bend a bit
- When I took the module off fearing permanent damange, I found that their screws made some marks on the PCB that I'm not comfortable with, luckily no traces were damanged and looks like nothing got shorted
P.S. does the damange in the last three photos look like a hazard or I'm still fine? This is my first time playing around with such moddings.
Anyone use a Blade60? Did it work well with these switches?
Is tape modding this better? Also has anyone tried the honey milk caps?
Does tape mod heat up the pcb
Depends on the case, but for aluminium it definitely reduces some sharp pinging .
Would gummy o ring mod or traditional gasket mount feel better for this board
has anyone successfully swapped the plate without calibration issues? i wanna put this PCB in a Brutal60 
There's been some in here you'd have to do a search though
right on, i'll have a closer look around. appreciate it
i keep case swapping and all things considered the default case tape modded and lubbed makes me happy, I can't even keep the snackbag keycaps on there without just wanting to change them out as a whole
Did you buy it? It sounds like you have to purchase it with as PCB? How about the case itself?
Are you around? I can swap into it for you if you want
The case itself is GREAT
Not much room for much more than tape modding, no foam
Hey! What do you mean? I am trying to find myself a white case for the wooting
I can tell you about the case, I have it sitting right next to me and a tofu60
it seems like i have to buy tthe whole Kit... how weird
whats the difference between the 2 and now that you have both... what is your final answer?
I'll say this much.
64 - thicker case, less moddable, similar angle to the wooting
tofu60 - well built but the maze64 has it beat, much more moddable in terms of foam, tape, etc, not as available as the maze64 because that's an "entry" level kit even though it definitely doesn't feel like it.
personally, I ended up just going with the stock tape modded, I like the character of the product but I can'
$130 vs $80 is what im seeing it as
when you say stock, what do you mean?
the plastic case the wooting comes in
just preference I guess, I already have the maze here might as well use it. but I'm going to end up selling one of the other two.
so for you, Wooting> maze>tofu ?
depends on what you're looking for i guess
the maze is definitely a higher quality case, but it's less moddable unless you just want to do tape
what mods can be done?
Do you have any other recommendations for white cases?
What color did you get the maze 64 in?
White
And no other recommendations there's nothing wrong with the tofu, infact id recommend it
It's just preference
you pretty much used the foam from the wooting and put it into the Maze?
You won't have enough room
oh what the heck?! so you transplant the wooting into the Maze64, and its missing foam and thats it?
It has a layer of it already but the extra one that seperates from the case would damage the PCB trying to screw onto it
ok got it!'
Could you please share photos of yours in the maze64 and what the inside of yours looks like?
So right now I don't have it, it's in a tofu. But honestly the only room you have is for tape mods in the maze
What sort of lube should I use for these springs? They're different from most normal springs right.
Gpl 105
Bag lube them
Aight, thanks.
Or better yet. Just use a brush - save some lube.
is it possible to use the hmkb60 with the wooting 60he?
Design Full steel, custom mechanical keyboard enclosure made from bent sheet metal. Combining steel and the manufacturing method of bending results in a heavy, rigid and durable construction. The bolts piercing through the frame reveal the top mount design. The overlapping and open flanges are a deliberate choice to re
Sure doesn't look like it.
will the maze 64 case work?
I believe @tough nova has it? 🙂
Submit or request a review of a case by adding a comment or posting on discord
It's on the list
Thank you!
Ok, tell you what I'll do one last transfer for you guys to see it in the maze and I'll tell you what it's like using it
It'll be the default "make64 case" answer when people ask about it lol
Make64
Make64 typing test, lubed switches, taped PCB and body. There's NO ROOM for foam. But oddly enough, taped and lubed this sounds quieter than the others.
@bleak pulsar I did a case swap for you
Crazy to think it has no room for foam! What is in the “place” for foam? Thicker case? Doesn’t sound hollow…
It does sound similar to the plastic wooting case
I did 2 layers of tape on the bottom of the case and one layer on the PCB itself. It crazy enough provides just enough cushioning and contact that it doesn't sound fully hollow
But overall you will stick with the wooting
Because the maze is a lower profile case than tofu?
Correct, something about a tape layered case sounds and feels great, in addition I just really like the character of the case
Now you just gotta paint the wooting white…
lol or get the white keycaps
I think I like the idea of a black tofu 60 right now honestly
Anywho, I think the tofu is going to end up on ebay.
so you keeping maze + wooting case?
which one you getting?>
cant even find any!
Yeah, they've been hard to find since black friday
60he, tofu60 arcylic case, pbt sa keycaps, 3d printed strap mount ❤️❤️❤️
any inputs what tape to use?
have the maze, but waiting for some free time to jump in to it
Masking tape, painters tape
if you want it louder - you can use electrical tape too
the more silent, the better
then no tape at all
guessing, something that's not conductive on backside of pcb and whatever kind on the bottom case?
oh really? then foam, or nothing at all?
foam yes - it makes it quitter
but tape changes the sound character and feels a bit louder
This implied tape would make it more quiet (and that foam is not even an option, just not sure by it self or if already taped)
I never tried to tape the case itself but I believe it would still not make it quieter but poppier - not as much as if applied to PCB itself though probably
ty
There's very little clearance for anything but tape
Got mine, pressing buttons feels and sounds fine after adding o rings. Terrible key rattle though. Would a thicker keycap help? Lubing switch stems? Something else?
Can anyone confirm if wooting 60 fits freebird 60 case?
Submit or request a review of a case by adding a comment or posting on discord
Recased my 60HE the other day.
❤️
Anybody here used polyfill. Can i request a sound check
loving the 60he with a kbdfans resin case and xda keycaps
looks neat
rt
Works well with FR4 as well, had to use the screws included with the wooting though and not the ones that came with the kbdfans kit
Anyone has any recommendations for case besides the tofu 60 (out of stock) ?
Submit or request a review of a case by adding a comment or posting on discord
im new to the modding scene, does the case actually make a difference or its just visual improvements?
Klippe T
Arguably better than tofu
What about Fjell vs Klippe T? Which one would you say is better
They are pretty different
Fjell is thicker and heavier
Personally not a fan of the larger bezels
They have the same exact color options
And of course the fjell costs almost 3 times as much as the klippe
In my opinion the fjell would be a waste to use with a 60he assembly, there are some cool gummy o ring mods you can do with it
Ok thanks for your help
Always wondered how you can lubricate your lekker switches or grease your stabilizer wire. In this video, we will deep dive on different methods of lubing and some general tips and tricks. Using the Wooting 60HE.
Krytox GPL 205G0 and Molykote EM-50L lubricant:
https://region.wooting.store/products/lubrication-set-krytox-205g0-molykote-em-50l
:...
Looking for some clarification from anyone that knows whether or not we can lube the bottom of the stems as well? In the video it does say to do so, but the reason I'm asking is I want to tub lube the stems to save time and I don't want to end up destroying the HE switches because there's lube
I mentioned doing so earlier but there was some uncertainty as to whether or not we can actually lube the bottom of the stems.
I just received everything to mod the wooting 60he now I only have to wait for the keyboard itself 😅 \
that's the essence of this hobby
Stole some painting tape of my dad, for the mode
Dont feel any différences after 3 layers
Tho, ive noticed an other tool he has
Who wants to try to put expansive foam in their case

true, but I cant wait to start
interesting detail:
I got a Y&R6095 60% pcb - which is GH60 design
but it doesn't fit into the wooting 60he case...
Tape mod is largely for the sound difference, but lubing I think has made the biggest difference for me
yeah
one thing to add
if you want a lower pitch on the keys
just stick some tape on the insides of the keycap
for me it reduced the high pitched click noise on my space bar
you mean loud or you don't like the sound ?
key release sound is extremely loud
compared to mx reds
Would rubber keycaps/really thick ones resonate less of the switch's release sound than the default wooting keycaps?
literally putting rubber foam in the caps doesnt even help much
I guess I could technically put an extremely thin bit of foam on the inside of the housing, where the stem and housing meet, but that's probably impossible
Add mass. An increase in mass requires more energy to vibrate. Inversely, more mass vibrates less with the same amount of energy. If how you add mass also increases rigidity, then you make the object further inert. Not exactly sure what people have done with keyboards; I'm applying knowledge from speaker design. But maybe you could mix some iron or lead powder into an epoxy and fill the caps a bit. That would add mass and increase rigidity.
Try some of the foam that rips into tiny squares
I could put some into my base keyboard and sound test for you, I'm happy with tape and wooting foam but it'll take all of ten minutes for a quick sound test
that would be very interesting. could compare the sound level in db too
replied to wrong message because im pepega but yeah
If there is some 0.5mm-1mm thick foam that I can get in polygons that'd be good
any updates?
Just got home
nice
too bad it compromises some of the switch's range
It shouldn't?
If the foam is between the switch housing and the switch, shouldn't it also keep the switch always pressed down a little?
Unless the foam compresses like 100%
Or I'm out of my mind
I think I'm making assumptions because I'm so excited to discuss the subject that I just feel the need to say... something? My bad
I think it's mostly wanting to come to the correct conclusion asap
he didn't cover it in his modding video though
unless the inner height of the switch housing is >4.0mm
Hey everyone,
I would love to update the case list. So tag me and let me know if you have a case you used and it isn't listed yet.
https://wooting-technologies.notion.site/de7a52e2b5a941258a17e448b0c9d9b0
Submit or request a review of a case by adding a comment or posting on discord
Putting me to shame. I've been meaning to do this for ages. 
So unfortunately I think my husband threw away the liner
Or I did and can't remember because it's not in my house anywhere
fair enough
interesting
This it doesn't do much, taped body 3 layers, 1 layer PCB, zipfit, wooting foam. Little deeper but this is REALLY maxing out the case I'm not doing anything else because the PCB has been through a lot
Well I guess I'll just have to experiment on my own
I managed to pull it off on my PSD60
Had to do some fiddling to get the stabs to fit properly though
the biggest challenge with this case was keeping the pcb secure with the switches
works pretty well for now, but i'm trying to figure out a more secure way to keep the pcb and plate together
edit: Nvm, it fits secure without the plate foam
hey guys, I had a list which cases fit the 60 HE, but I can't find it anymore. Can someone repost it please?
Submit or request a review of a case by adding a comment or posting on discord
thank you very much!
@scenic needle I can confirm that this case works, no modifications necessary. I split the two layers of the stock case foam and used the bottom layer for this case.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XKRRX3L?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
I don't think it looks the best. But I wanted to try a flat case out.
Anyone got recommendations for keycaps w/ Tofu60 Black?
and is the cherry profile the only one I can use?
or i can use others as well
We use OEM by default for the 60HE, Cherry works too.
Other profiles might as well, but I have a lot less experience with those. Different heights and tolerances.
Ok ty, so basically cherry and oem for best experience right?
Its preference.
psd60 ISO plate is not compatible - ansi seems to work but probably must fill the case with foam for it to hold
The PCB damage around screw area is not an issue, there's enough empty space around it from the next trace. Of course though, wouldn't recommend to completely ruin it.
Additionally you might be able to use really small spacer rings to get the heads larger. Or just look for better screws.
yeah I sprayed a POM plate in another custom build before, might as well do it on the 60HE plate if I ever find the motivation to unbuild it again
very classy
Thanks! Will add it 😁
With cat hairs
I am so freaking happy
(the mic wasnt in front of the keyboard. it was on the right side)
i did too many mods with this idek where to start lol
(without the light on my desk. only monitor light)
KBDfans acrylic case came in today and I've got a KBD fans alumninum case and a Mekanisk Klippel T alumninum case both coming Monday. I'll do a straight swap between all 3 cases and upload a sound test next week.
Also, since no one ever answered my questions from 2 weeks ago, burger mod on the stock case did make a slight difference, but you'll need M2x5 screws as the default M2x4 were too short for comfort. The only mods I've done for the acrylic case so far is tape mod, a sheet of PE foam at the bottom of the case. I didn't like the burger mount sound with the acrylic case.
Oh and switches have been lubed with 205g0
the case works with the original case foam without any modifications made fyi
I have the same one
so comfy to type on ^_^
I do actually kind of dig it. What profile caps do you have on yours?
Yes they are oem
I'm actually on the search for an even lower profile GH60 case, if anyone's got any recommendations LMK, I'll be your product review guinea pig :^)
@wary mango I think the lowest you will find is this one - https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=5357
Im 95% sure that case works
if it works with pok3r pcb it should work with 60he
afaik it could be the same case I'm using, it doesn't look toooo different
Vortex Pok3r V2 Review! Redesigned From The Ground UP BUT IS IT GOOD!?!?!
BUY HERE: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=5357
#vortexpok3rv2 #vortex #vortexpok3r
!!!!!FOLLOW ME ON MY SOCIALS!!!!
Twitch: https://www.twitch.tv/btaesthetics
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I'd have to buy the whole ass keyboard to find out
That video shows the angles better
You might be able to find just the case
Yup
Thats about the thickness of the pcb and plate so you wont find much lower. You could also buy the whole keyboard and swap the guts into your current case and then flip it
I've actually recently messed up the keyboard I use for working so I can totally put the internals of the pok3r into there
now I just have to find a white one 
Sounds like you have your next mission!
thanks for saucing me that, before this I was considering contacting a CNC machinist to do one for me, you just saved me big $$!
Im not a fan of white myself just from a dirt perspective but I have this one coming Monday so maybe itll change my mind - https://mekanisk.com/products/klippe-t-keyboard-case-only?variant=39479936614574
Specifications Size 60% keyboard Compatibility 60% poker / tray mount Weight Approx. 1 kg Screw size M2x5mm Material Aircraft-grade aluminium In the box Klippe T Keyboard Chassis with all mounting hardware and pre-installed viewfinder bumpons High-quality packaging Finish The keyboard can have anodizing hook marks on t
yes
let us know how you like it !
I bought a Tofu 60 aluminum but could only find it in purple and then score the klippe from a buddy so I'll get to keep the one I like best and sell the other I guess. Might end up selling both if the acrylic ends up being my fav
In my experience metal cases feel a hell of a lot nicer than acrylic, the only exception would be if the acrylic was translucent and you like RGB shine-through-ness
ahh, it looks like pok3r v2 uses low profile switches, so the 60he likely won't work with it
I'm take it or leave it with RGB, just looking for a particular sound. For all of the amazing stuff the wooting does, it lacks that amazing clacky or thocky sound you get from high end custom mech boards. I'm going through different things to see if I can get close though because I hate swapping my keyboard out when I switch from gaming to work lol
I really like the sound of the 60HE to be honest, but it's definitely a very different sound from other switches. I think that in terms of finding a thocky type sound a heavier case would likely be best, but I'm not too experienced with it all. Let us know your findings and your thoughts on everything, it's always nice to hear from other enthusiasts :^)
@wary mango looks like that case only comes in black, silver and grey but you can buy the case only from kprepublic - https://kprepublic.com/products/anodized-aluminium-flat-case-with-metal-feet-for-custom-mechanical-keyboard-black-siver-grey-colorway-for-gh60-xd60-xd64-satan?_pos=2&_sid=cb090b149&_ss=r
GH60 Aluminium Case & CNC Aluminum Cone Feet Pls pay attention:Only Including flat case/CNC Aluminum Cone Feet/Rubber feet/Screws, not including other things,especially not including keycaps or PCB. This flat case can support most GH60 PCB such as Satan60\XD60.... Dimension: 29.5 x 10.4 x 2.3 (with feet) cm
This is the same spec as the one I'm using :D
The POK3R V2 case is significantly thinner but it's a low profile board




