#My wooting dont work
1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
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To start, it's best to determine and check the state of the keyboard, as it may be in Restore mode or driver related.
To find out in Windows you can check Device manager.
How to open Device Manager
- Right click on the Start button in the taskbar
- Select "Device Manager"
- Select "View"
- Select "View by container"
- Look for the device
Can you check how your device is listed? It may have one of the following names:
- Wooting (Two He / 60HE / UwU)
- Wooting Restore
- Not listed
Also, just to check, is your keyboard stock or has it been modified in any way (case swap, tape mod, etc)?
So it is no longer displayed to me.
LEDs don't work anymore.
The keyboard is no longer working
And it doesn't connect with Wootlity.
I unplugged and i plugged in
And then she went on and off on and off and after that didn't go on anymore.
If you move the USB-C cable naer the port gently do you notice it flash on/off
might be a loose connection to the port/cable ?
I really didn't tip any water on it or hit it. that's really random happened 5 minutes before it happened. the keyboard spun.
Nothing
I connected the keyboard to 2 PC.
And that didn't help.
I also changed the cable.
Hmm, this could be due to a few things.
The best approach is to remove the module from the case and take some pictures of the entire PCB, including close-ups of the USB-C port area. Inspect the component for any visible issues. You might also apply a small amount of pressure to the USB-C port to check for a loose fit.
- Note best to take these with as much light as possible and take a few pictures from different angles
- ill include an example image below of the USB-C area
- Video guide on how to remove the Module https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRVnK958Tdk
Following along in this tutorial to see how you can easily replace your Wooting 60HE PCB.
Did you break your 60HE PCB? Contact us over at social@wooting.io
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I had a problem before that I ripped out the USB port from the pcb. But then I soldered that and it worked again.
It may be it has something to do with it.
I send you tommorow
The 60HE ? or a differnt device ?
60HE
Yes, that might be a significant data point.
If you have soldering tools, do you have a multimeter?
as you can perform a continuity test on the test pads
V, G, D+, D-
to the USB points
I can do it tommorow
I go now sleep
Thank you for the help
😁
Same mate Good luck 🙂
Thank you very much
ok i think i spotted the issue
The traces look pretty torn, so it doesn't seem like an easy fix.
Might be better off using a USB-C daughterboard and connecting to the test pads I am not sure about the clearance needed, but you might be able to get away with something like the image. Securing it so it doesn't move might be a challenge.
Link
in the worst case we can offer replacement PCB pretty sure this would be full price around 80Eur
Ohh there dose look like one Big point i overlooked
The FB1 Looks cracked if this is broken no power will be received by the keybaord
as its role is to filter unstable power
If you have a mutimeter best to check both ends if there is a connection but with the crack doesn't look good
And a New pcb would Cost 80 euro
Rough number (not including Shipping) and not sure regarding discount if this applys but if interested i can ask as i am not sure when it is heavily modded this way
sorry to say we can't provide discounted PCB + Shipping
ill provide you the part for the FB1 just incase this is required if you go down the route of repair
So I should check if there is electricity going through.
What would be a good sign? so that it works again or there is a possibility that the keyboard still works
If you have a multimeter, you can do a conductivity test on both ends, but that looks like a pretty bad crack. Either that or the coating is scratched, making it look like it is cracked.
It is pretty hard to say, the PCB looks pretty rough.
-
USB-C port pads look completely torn.
- A repair on the USB-C would require a very advanced repair or the use of a daughter board like I showed, connecting the test pads instead as a makeshift solution.
-
Possible cracked FB1.
- Would require resoldering a replacement, which is not too expensive as these cost a few cents.
Ultimately, it is up to you. It could be a fun project, but third-party repairs can be pretty pricey and might cost more than a replacement.
Out of curiosity, what happened to the port in the first place that warranted resoldering?
My brother wanted to open the PCB but tore out the USBC.
ahh.. yea that would do it
those pads are pretty much gone so soldering on a new Port would require connecting it to the Test pads instead all 4
But it is possible to repair it.