#🔧│keyboard_modding
1 messages · Page 792 of 1
Well that answers my question then lol
Man fiberglass has SO many applications outside of what I know/used it for
G10 is not flame resistant
FR4 is materially as strong and dense as G10, shares same mechanical properties, but has a resin that is flame resistant
hence it's ok to use in NEMA applications
Ive only worked with fiberglass in industrial chemical tanks, then the obvious automotive/boat/small planes
Canvas Micarta, Paper Micarta, and Linen Micarta are ALSO phenolic resin laminates just like G10 and FR4.
Wasn't aware pcbs were also made from it
and your carbon fiber is also going to be a laminate with a phenolic resin
the difference is that your CF stuff is (usually) going to be a weave, rather than an aligned fiber.
which is why FR4 sounds deeper and thockier than CF
Wonder how easy it would be to make a mold for mice using a 3d printed
Then make my own cf mouse
👀 👀 👀
Not hard, if you do layups for fiberglass already.
nah, the substrate has a big impact in density
FR4 is way more dense than CF
because of how it's made
Yeah we have literally everything to do it, + have experience working with cf already (entirely different application though)
(Unless you're doing aligned strand CF and not woven)
then for you, with your tooling and experience, it's a relatively trivial task, assuming you have the ability to scale down to that small of a dimension
Perhaps I make a cf mouse and say to hell with 3d printed mice
you could also potentially turn this into an entrepreneurial endeavor.
For cf would a styrene based resin still work?
nah you want phenolic
The cf we used in the chem tanks is a bit different than what's used traditionally for car parts and atuff
Can probably just grab some off amazon id imagine
I think the hardest part would be making the left and right click
But I can probably just make the shell as 1 and cut them out
And attach them
phenolic are a thermoset resin, and really good for 3 dimensional stability, but you don't need the thermo or electrical properties for it.
so I guess you could do an epoxy resin for a mouse
it's just not the standard for PCBs because of the electrical / heat issues
I'm a bit more ignorant of polystyrene resins or this application
The one we use in the tanks is thermo set
Yeah polystyrene is all I know
Its all ive ever used
I think polystyrene is technically a thermoplastic and not a resin regardless
not sure if it would impregnate into the fibers in the same way.
You might be doing some sort of laminated wafer layer setup?
Yeah dont know how itd do for this specific application
yeah I think you might have issues for something this small.
Yeah we're doing like 8 layer 8x4ft sheets
Epoxy resin or Phenolic resin would be way easier to manage in the vacuum mold than your....
Each layer getting its own spray of resin
yeah you're doing a more laminate... yupo
yeah your process wouldn't be ideal for this
You'd want to talk to the auto body folks or the kit airplane folks about how they do it.
Or the bicycle part folks.
My step dad has experience doing it both with resin impregnation and laminate
So id get him to help me fs
I mean, you know more than most about it, and there's going to be a lot of crossover with what you do.
Yeah some intricacies between the 2 for sure though
the issue is how small and thin this stuff is
Could be a fun project, while also resulting in my dream mouse
Just need to somehow make a mold of my mouse that has holes all over it 
you can get away with a lot more slop on a CF spoiler for a car than you can with a 0.80 - 0.85 mm shell for a mouse.
Yeah
No.
You mold it as a solid and then mill out the holes my man.
at least for your one-off
Ig I could probably find 3d files for the shell itself somewhere online
Or ask wlmouse if they could give me some
If you wanted to produce this at scale, then you'd make a die cut template and an injection mold.
And then 3d print the mold from this
but as a oneoff, you make it solid and cut it
I dont want holes on the one I make, but the shape I want to copy is from a beastx max
Idk how id make a physical mold without ruining the mouse itself
that's simple enough, you just use an ultra thin tape
3d printing based off 3d files would be a lot better
Yeah thats true
or prototype an inverse from a 3d file
and then mold over the inverse (inside dimensional tolerance)
Ill have to do some searching and see if there are 3d files available/if wlmouse has some available
there's also mold release agent for resin
Im sure they'd be supportive of the project they seem like a good company
so you could use the REAL item covered in the release agent
and literally lay up over it to make an exoskeletal mold
and then you run your NEXT layup inside of that exo
and you can re-use the exo
Im gonna add you, seems like having you on my friends list may be helpful on this project lol
You seem to know your shit
like, there's a lot of ways to do this at the small level
I'm an engineer. 😄
Figured as much lol
@tropic urchin
Cf beastx max soon(tm)
👀
I'm more of the concrete, steel, asphalt, earthwork, civil and structural type.
But I've got a background in materials, electronics, power production, and have also done a lot of work with composites for hobby stuff (serious hobby stuff).
you gotta sneak into WLmouse HQ and get some of their opticals ong
so I'm kinda all over the place
If i do end up making the shell properly ill just scavenge my beastx max internals
oh and some machining experience heh
i would trade in my entire mouse collection for a 35g viper v3 shape with Ulx speed and WLMouse optical implementation
yeah you'd need to scavenge internals for sure
Idk whether id want to reuse the base plate or try to make one out of cf tho
mouse modding is kinda scary tho
Or just 3d print a new base plate
Im excited to get into it
NGL, I am super curious to see how the Pro X2 Superstrike comes out.
HE mouse.
Usually if it's plastic and it's a platinum based silicon you don't need a mold release
putting alu tape on my Ulx clickers to eliminate the click travel was enough to scare me away xD
shit is so delicate
Well yeah its a ulx
Id be scared to blow on it the wrong way

you can blow on it plenty 
OK. I'm a little out of my lane on the plastics. Most of what I've done with extremely tight tolerance epoxy work has been with aluminum, carbon steel, stainless steel, micarta, carbon fiber (exposed from milling), and fiberglass (exposed from milling)
I have no clue what this chat is about also lmao, I just saw that one message
We're talking about using an existing mouse body to create a mold for the creation of a CF layup laminate replacement mouse body.
Ohhh
He's trying to shave 0.1 grams 😂
Use dragon skin 20 silicone, stuff is absolutely amazing, also invest in a pressure pot, it removes all the bubbles from silicone and resin casts
And since he didn't want to destroy the OG mouse body, I suggested mold release as one option of many.
He has access to industrial vacuum stuff
Oh yeah, honestly use Legos and dragon skin, absolutely amazing mold base and silicone
And he has experience with fiberglass and thermoset plastic laminate layup.
Hey now
That's a really good home solution.
That migjt be true but itd be bad ass
instead of finding a new mouse I think the play is to mod the VV3 pro with the PMM kit
Manage your expectations with this. I'm being serious, you might not save any weight at all on your first 3-4 tries. It might even be heavier.
I think if I end up putting holes in it, I could at least make it sub 40g, maybe mid to low 30g
I dont even wanna have a woven cf for weight tbh
It all comes down to minimizing your resin use to the absolute bare minimum to maintain structural integrity and assembly.
It'd just look badass, and ill have made it myself
Ah this is only looks?
Thats a flex
Ok
Oh yeah, that's what I used when I was custom making dice, debating on trying that with keycaps next
Mostly looks, any weight savings would just be a cherry on top
Then yeah, you can go ham on the rein and save yourself a lot of headaches
Once I get a working prototype, then ill chase weight
Getting weight savings is achievable here but it would be a significant challenge requiring iterative prototyping.
Yeah, id want to get a solid base mold that i can adjust resin ratio from first
Balance weight to strength as good as I can
Because the overwhelming majority of your weight is going to come from the resin, not the CF, and most of that weight will be at whatever clips/snaps/fastener solutions you have to engineer into this.
Make a mouse out of aerogel
You're NOT going to be able to use the stock clip arrangement most likely.
Only mouse weaker than a ulx😭
Clip arrangement?
you know how most mice only have 1 or 2 screws and they rely on all of the clips/snaps at the frame sides to click in and fit?
that's where you save weight
Ah yeah
and that's REALLY hard to engineer on a prototype
like... you're gonna be using little fasteners all over
It's shockingly hard to engineer that stuff for optimizing weight/cost/ease of assembly. They spend a lot of engineering time up front to do that, which saves them pennies on every mouse pumped out of the mold later.
If someone designs it I could resin print prototypes haha
yours is gonna be fasteners everyhwere (which makes it repairable)
yeah he was talking abotu 3d printed stuff
and there IS now CF filament stuff, it's just not "woven" look
It'd be lighter with resin, but my only concern with the resin would be how brittle resin tends to be if cured improperly
well he's got thermoset experience
I could use some form of epoxy or even hot glue(this would probably be very weak) to do it
so I'm assuming he knows how to troubleshoot h is process
nah hot glue would suck and so would bonding it permanently. You'd want to build up a couple areas to thread into with screws or brass female threaded inserts, and some countersunk screws for your mouse.
Think like ultra tiny ridge wallet screw sizes here.
Yeah
Once I get an absolute final product, epoxy could work but who's to say ill never want to take it apart again 🤷
If I had a g502, I'd try this haha
I think they're like T5 torx lol
Ive got experience with thermoset, + my step dad's been working with it for the last 20 or so years. Shouldn't really be an issue
you need to plan to have dissassembly as an option up-front
https://torontokeyboardman.ca/products/wooting-80he-modding-kit
if i buy this does it come with everything that i see people use in videos minus the plate?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwRoMJAX874
The most powerful modding kit for Wooting 80 HE Click here for a build guide Exclusively designed for the Wooting. Now revamped for the 80% layout. Modding Kit only, Keyboard not included. Not compatible with other keyboards. Why mod your Wooting? Sound profile: fine tune your auditory experience; whether you like clac
BUY THE MOD KIT HERE: https://torontokeyboardman.ca/
BUY THE KEYCAPS HERE: https://www.cerakey.com/
BEFORE: Switches used are the TTC Magneto
AFTER: Switches used are the Lekkers V2
Intro 0:00
Build 0:19
AND WE'RE BACK 2:30
Finished Looks 2:50
Before Sound Test 3:07
After Sound Test 3:20
trust me on that
Yeah just thought about that part
you don't want to prototype it and then have it be a CF resin cage you have to dremel open
so you're going to want to th ink ahead of time about what the PCB size is
Definitely small screws is the move
Where to put them would be the most difficult part
I think
Simply because the beastx doesn't have any screws up front
Its just clipped into the front of the base
Oh yeah youd be fine, ever tried the resin printing?
I can imagine a few places where it would work, just need to design around it
Im getting a resin printer in a few months
Which is what sparked the initial idea of making my own mice
Should work
engineering the clips is a pain.
Probably easiest for prototyping to have 4 screws, one at each "corner"
And then whatever is needed to mount the PCB internally (usually 1-2 more screws)
Get an elegoo saturn, easiest thing in the world to use
I could try implementing something to secure the pcb with the same screws that attach the base and top shell
Autolevels and heated tank
Thats the exact one I was looking at 🔥
That, or the mars
you definitely could re-use their fasteners and their inserts if you wanted to
Form the case around the pcb so it needs no screws lmao
I used the older mars and wasn't a fan, using the Saturn rn and it's amazing. No clue about the newer mars
I would need to make something for the front to attach via screws, but that shouldn't be too difficult once I get the 3d files figured out
you could also go with some form of pan head or countersunk fastener, probably a fine metric thread.
These are MUCH smaller than they look here.
For scale, that's a credit card size.
so those fasteners are TINY
Yeah those would be perfect
not saying to buy their stuff, just using an example that shows you scale
I'd source different fasteners.
Those use T5 torx
which will be MUCH easier to assemble/disassemble multiple times than stupid PH0 will be
Id need to make sure we even have torx bits to screw em in 
you can buy the tool
I think i do somewhere around here
I love stripped screws
Yippie
Wiha stuff out of germany is usually quality and price focused.
some of it's from poland, but it's still good
Magnesium screws lol
Yeah id need to figure out lengths and stuff but that won't really be much of a hassle
lol, gotta save those micrograms!
This is gonna be a fun project
Especially when I get the final product
My god itll be glorious
Lol, usually they're used for surgeries too
Time to go message wlmouse cord and ask about 3d files 👀
so ... I'm seriously considering melting down some of my junk silver coins and casting (and then finish machining and polishing) a solid silver (well 90% silver anyhow) HE80 case...
and then maybe talking my buddy's father into engraving it for me
We were taking about this before😭
I figure I might have it done in a year.
yeah
was just telling night what my project might be
How much would that even weigh
I ran the math. It's about $3500 US worth of silver right now. LOL
Lmao, according to some real rough calculations, that'd be like a 35 pound case😭😭😭
Silver is roughly 10 times the density of zinc alloy
Oop
Show the difference in cad
Its rough out here 😭
Then you have aussies which have it even worse than us
LOL at USD - CAD exchange rate
Yeah its brutal
God damn
yeah, I won't go too much farther with this conversation, since it's easy to get political and this is keyboard mods
The point is, a silver case would be fun.
and a woven CF mouse would look sick
Only one I know of is the m2k/m3k
From however tf you spell that company
Having a home made woven cf mouse is giga flex
and you're going to finish your flex project faster than I will finish mine
Theoretically you could cast a he switch with solid silver
More than a silver 80he?? Maybe not
But both are badass
The casing at least
That would be a nightmare. I do NOT have that kind of jewelers experience to do.
Id hope to have a good prototype by next summer
Fully silver 80he
Not sure if thats ambitious or not
also casting 90 of those?
ooof
the variance
I couldn't do lost-wax
I'd have to do somethign FAR more repeatable
You'd be better off milling it
and that's big money
I feel like after the first 10 you'd have the process down pretty well
yeah and I don't want to have to collect all of the mill scraps from milling billet silver into switch bodies
also the RING would be horrific
Mill x amount, remelt and cast the scrap back into a chunk then mill some moren
Definitely time consuming 
I think that a silver plate and a silver case will be great
silver plate will probably sound bad though
ring ring ring
Silver plate + silver case with a nice keycap set to compliment it would be soooooo nice
Easily the most baller 80he out there
90% coin silver is rigid enough that a 1.5mm plate wouldn't bend much.
I'd have to reclaim the swarf though.
A silver plate would be cool af
I think with the right supporting mods and switches it could sound nice, but itd definitely be a very high pitched sound profile
can't leave that much silver on the machinist's table
it really would
silver case, engraved, and antiqued, and silver plate, mirror polished.... ffs that'd be sick
Silver plate + ti he could work i think
The ti he is a nice high pitch as is
Might need some (a lot) of foam to try and help it out though...
I really want to buy a snap maker (cnc, 3d printer, and laser cutter) feel like I could make a lot with that
I would love a cnc mill but my god the price
If i dont get in to deep with cars I might be able to afford one eventually
But a cnc would also pair really well with modifying cars 
Oh yeah amazing
Hopefully gonna be driving a 240sx next summer 👀
Damnn
I'd love to get a gr86 but I'm only hesitant because of the Subaru engine. Yeah it's totally be refined the past 10 years, but I'd be more open to it if it was a Toyota engine.
Nothing crazy fast, little sr20 build
Probably make a little under/rigjt around 300hp
One of the fun toys
Fun back roads rig
Hell yeah
335i?
M3
I suck at BMW models from that gen

Clean
Na or have you dove into the turbo realm
and a lot more track time, so.... more rock chips on the splitters
Thats what we like to hear
it's 4.0L V8 NA, not at all a good platform for boost
Actually sriving your projects 🔥
Oh those didnt have the b58?
Was that on later gens?
The other fun toy
S65
Also God damn those 4L v8s sound glorious
redlines at 7825 RPM yeah, they sound awesome
Such a clean sounding engine
I cant wait to be hearing sr20 noises 24/7
I somewhat regret having both rock crawler and M3 and not just having only 911.
Ive got such a soft spot for sr's
ok i bought this foam kit, im hoping it comes with everything ill need minus a plate since ill use the wooting plat.
Its nice having a fun ride for multiple types of driving though
but building my own cage and bumper and building up that jeep myself was so rewarding, and it's so much fun offroad.
Lots of trills idling in 1st gear of 4-low. LOL
I get in a lot less trouble wheeling than hooning.
anyone like and or dislike the tape on the back of wooting pcb
Im planning on picking up a 97 4runner for a overland/bush rig
And or a 90s Toyota pickup
I think it looks super classy, and I like that it's factory applied. Unsure of the sound profile differences.
i really wanna find a 94-97 ford ranger regular cab short splash bed
Is the splash bed the step sides?
yesss
This is my end goal with a 4runner
Nothing overly lifted, but a nice reliable bush rig
ahh im more of a lower/smaller car person, i own a miata
I drive an 06 corolla xrs rn lol
Winter tires on the planet saver:
so if i get a ranger ill prolly keep it stock height mabye lower by a tad
I'd like to point out that that is 46.8 mpg over the lifetime of 5800+ miles.
so that's not some "best case" but that's like... lifetime of the car
I love my little corolla, 175hp, 6 speed manual, 8600rpm red line, 2400 lbs
Such a fun daily
W
The 2zz is such a wonderful engine
My Honda civic is on 140000 and still 32mpg haha
Yamaha tuned 4 banger goes hard
2012, before they did that weird transmission
this is the new civic hybrid hatch. I get like 62 mpg in town lol
but at 70mph it sucks a bit more fuel
I would love to go itbs at some point on my 2zz
This is a really solid platform for overlanding.
Itb setups are surprisingly expensive, especially with such a niche engine
Damnn, I love the new hybrids, but half the lane assist crap messes with me. Ik you can turn it off, but there's too much
Yeah thats exactly why I want one, + theres tons in manual
have you looked at the Ford Maverick?
It's getting absolutely rave reviews.
miata so simple yet elegant
My grandfather owned a soft top
Used to love riding in that tging as a little kid
Such cute little cars
lucky enough to have myself a hard top
since its my daily a soft top would suckk
when people are like, "Why would you spend hundreds of dollars on a keyboard?"
I'm like, "Bro, compared to cars, it's cheap pleasure."
i mean where the hell u live
Thats my hometown, Alberta Canada
I live out west now it only gets like -20 at worst
-20 still insane
We regularly see -50 with the windchill there
i live in maryland, us
Coldest I've been outside in was -56c
nice, I've been outside at -40
my state is reliquishing historic plates, meaning ill have to get my car to pass emissions and inspections...
It all fucking sucks tbh
How bro felt after posting that @calm pulsar
if there's no wind it almost doesn't matter
When its windy, it just cuts straight through any amount of clothes you have
You aren't warm no matter how many heated jackets, boots, or hats you have on 😭
how expensive are old cars in your countries?
yeah that's why I felt colder in Saint-Petersburg more than in my city😭
Depends on their condition/how sought after they are
The problem witj my hometown is, its always windy
If it runs, 8500 is pretty good
And isnt rusted to shit
The 123456 was prob just for visibility because itll put it higher on the list
it runs but "doesnt drive"
Depending on what's causing that, still not the worst
If the tranny is gone, okay thats kinda bad
needs slave cylinder, like bro do that shit before u sell it if thats actually all it is
The s chassis market is insane now
ive replaced my slave cylinder it took like an hour
Slave cylinder isnt that bad
Id try to haggle a bit, but id still buy it if thats it
Well he very well could
A lot ofnpeople sell projects due to circumstance/lost interest
I rarely go outside to experience harsh winter but lets not mention that
i guess thats fair, but just insane to me
i dont go outside cause grass is scary
NEEERD
damn i cant imagine working on a car in that kinda weather.
I’m taking your ushanka
It sucks
A lot
Especially because you cant wear gloves half the time you tryna do anything
how will I do Setup now😭
@marsh saffron second jdm spotted
saw an old nsx 
Oh wait your in Russia arent you?
no photos tho i was driving
yeah
Makes sense you've experienced real cold before
🤝
W I seen one for sale a couple weeks ago
Bone stock, 156k miles, 80k cad💀
Interior was in rough shape, but exterior was really good
Over my dead BODY!
Gang is knight v4 stabs worth it compared to the stock wooting module ones?
im still looking for potential cars 👀
though im not buying soon but i wanna get a list
can't wait to drive my first car
i really wanna get one
first it was the kkb sojus
now this
which is 5-10x more expensive
get 4 more keycap sets
my lil corolla xrs couldnt be a better first car for me
6 speed manual my beloved
im going all in on my first
got a decent chunk saved up
chadular
I got a H shifter for my wheel to hopefully build some muscle memory before going to a driving school lol
ive been driving stick since i was like 9 lol
learned how in my dads 240sx on a snow covered gravel road
good times
me getting (head, ears)ed by killa when I was wearing a visor and was looking directly at him😭
I only read the first 3 words and I made the drew eyebrow raise irl 🤣
Hate this chat I swear
Your eyebrows got raised?
lord have mercy
I'd flex with well loved carbines in subarctic temperature snow pictures, but I'm not sure what Wooting would have to say about that.
In response to this parking lot ninja
The knight stab collection grows 
Parking lot ninja, that’s a Bear PMC 
Nah I mean for upcoming photo
Is it considerably noticeable compared to the stock module stabs?
They are easier to lube, takes less to make them perfect
😂 I skip photo. Moment has passed and 80HE build has begun
Would not say they are needed, these are actually for a MX keyboard I have coming soon
What lube you use for the stabs?
Just normal dielectric?
for the good stabs like yikb and knight stabs, imo 205g0 is plenty good
never needed dielectric
What board? I'm still keeping my eyes peeled for an MX that speaks to me.
I like getting my wires greasy
who doesnt
Alr, just ordered knight stabs. Canceled my wooting module also so I can just order the v2
yeah as phish said for knights I just use 205g0 for the stock wooting stabs i'd use 205g2 or xht-bdz
i would cut holes in my current cf plate but carbon fiber dust is horrible 💀
Do it
Why you tryna become extra crusty
You already live in NYC
Paw I got the black lung modding my keeb
Sounds like the CF is stronger than your epidermis
i wonder if its possible to make holes for stabs for a 6.25u spacebar on a plate that also works with 60he v2 split
i dont see why it wouldnt

Don’t be using those big words around here pardnah
On the simple squamous epithelium
its just 4 extra cutouts, 2 for the swtiches and 2 for the other side of the stabs
Do it
based off my very (un)scientific observations these line up with the 6.25u stab placement 
Nice lekkers
This should be arriving 
https://www.instagram.com/p/DOjFF2lEiD3/?img_index=2&igsh=MWpqbGwwdHd2YzAxdg==of
Today I finally got my hands on the TGR Jane V3 Rubrehose Edition - the first version of Jane V3, born from the legendary collab🔥 between @thegreatrectangle and @rubrehose
Special thanks to @klc_playground_official
The anodizing quality is on another level, and the polished finish on the toblerone and weight is just flawless - it honestly ...
463
Pretty 👀
Someone played cuphead 
good game
Yo that’s epic
Enjoy
the game was so good at maintainin my anger
from blowin a hole through my monitor
Then bollow knight unleashed the gates
You don’t got that Bacardi rizz unc simmer down
duude some of the characters in hk are so bad
it unleashed the beast from the gates
Sounds like the perfect November game
serves as a good challenge
I hated the mantis's
Okay thats fucking sweet
How much does it cost though gotta be absurd
Just got my Wooting 2 HE, came from a Epomaker HE75 Mag.
Feels and sounds better, may tape mod, anyone know how to dissasemble the 2 HE?
Or got a video

😭
its okay show the class
we enjoy bad financial decisions 
Pushing close to $900 with some extra plates and PCBs
Hooooly
goddamn
Bros putting my build to shame
worth
Bloody Christ
jesus
its real pretty tho
Gotta pay TGR tax 
I have 1500hours on this games best game from rockstar for me
Real
Guys do you think is possible to find the klippe t case ?
Now that I’ve ordered the gt80 case as well as new stabs and switches I feel I may as well order a plate also. The only videos I’ve found so far have been of the Toronto keyboard man plates.
Are there any other plate options for the 80HE?
From what I’ve seen so far I’m thinking of going with the fr4 plate but just seeing if there are any other options aside from Toronto keyboard man.
That's the only other place I know of that has 80 plates
second hand yeah
check like mechmarket or some shit
anyone know which would be better for speed/performance? i was thinking of upgrading to l45v2 or the lekker tikken
yo guys im boutta get the wooting 60he and instead of the basic lekker switches what would you guys reccomend for a good sound and where to buy them
im just lf any switch recomendations tbh
@tropic urchin do u have the pic of the stabs with the bands on it
Ok thank you. I will check them out. Have you had any experience with these plates?
I havent had any experience with the 80 nor the plates for it. I mainly mess with the 60
heres a list with sound test
Looking for switch recommendations and soundtests? Here are popular recommendations in our modding community (updated: Oct 10 - recommended switches now have soundtests added at link below):
** * https://link.wooting.io/soundtests**
As to where to buy depends where you live
Yeah fair. Will do some more research on them anyway and see if there’s any reviews on them. For the price though suppose it can’t hurt to try them.
oh yeah of course
which ones u think sound best
btw depending on where u live is there a diff selection of switches or r they all the same
its entirely personal preference, everyone will tell you a different answer
yh true
your best off going to the sound test and giving is a listen yourself
cuz on my wooting website most of these switches arent their
r these all switches in general?
yep, wooting only sells a few they produce and a few other brands
hall effect switches are made for multiple keyboards outside of wooting, yet are compatible with wooting. Most of the time you'll find them on websites like aliexpress or other keyboard website offering hall effect switches
which are some of the best keybaord/ switch websites?
pick your switch first then worry about websites
where you buy will highly depend on what you decide on for your switch
check here and figure out which one you like the most
kk, tysm guys y'all are really helpful!
So, i realy like the flux (deep clack), owlab ti he & the duhuk herz
everyone likes the deepclack haha
Wuque Studio WS Flux (Deep Clacky)
thats where all the deep clacks can be found, all aliexpress, depends on your location for price
yerp
i made that list
yerp
yerp
i bought from GGBOY since it was the cheapest at the time for US
just had to order krytoc 205 because everything i use besides stabs is prelubed😭
i got some cheap 205g0 off amazon and called it a day
yeah it was like 11 dollars something little
So far, I really like the Wooting x TTC KOM POM on the PC plate in the Zn 80HE.
That said, I'm painstakingly lubricating every single one because they came totally dry.
I do have FR4 plate coming.
you poor soul
So I'll compare
i know someone else had an issue with plate standoffs on the aftermarket plates, does the fr4 plate for the 80 have that same issue?
It's a plus though, because I'm learning how to do it and what sounds and feels good to me.
Unsure. Using Wooting's plate right now, so obviously no issues there
Debating if I want to do black alphabet keys.
yeah, i know if you ordered through kbdfans, you also had to order their 2 dollar standoff kit that they just don't mention anywhere

rip mikdad
does anyone have the knight v4’s installed
Didn't they just release?
i just ordered mine lol
i found a random chinese video about them if you want it lol
i think it showed installation
order them while you can, theres like 2 left
i saw it but idt they used the rings
rip
its been out for a minute
yes on the top
ok tyty
yes ig has to be for the spacebar
the rest have the bar on the bottom
iirc
yea
you dont need to use the black shims thst came with it
those are only if the pcb is too thin
yes
they're the washers for the screw in stabs
you dont need the shims like takmon said
hi thockson
tak i forgot earlier, was it mentioned if v1 module plates would work on the v2?
if youre not getting split then yeah it should
nothing is changing other than it going fron 1-8k polling pcb wise
i really need to stop asking questions and just get the preorder in😭
buy now worry later
haii
im getting split v2 
sold my module
I just canceled my module order lol
i mean itd be a neat thing to try out
true
and gives me a reason to upgrade or swap to a v2 pcb
i need to wait for plate files so i can order a cf plate
take everything out
hopefully nipple case with the gasket tab mount will work well with fr4 and titons
issue with the gt60 is that the whole keyboard will fall out if i flip it upside down 💀
Minor detail
i already tested friction fit, its <1mm too wide and lengthy
Rip
tbh i dont mind as i dont transport my 60he anyways
well other than to a friends house but i got a carrying case with straps that came with the gt60
so theoretically it shouldnt fall out
Oh yeah should still be fine
Honestly that's what messes with me and friction fit, like I know it won't do anything, but I like it secure😭
oh friction mouting in the tofu
there was a zero precent chance of it falling out
i needed to take out switches and pry it out using the holes in the plate meant for switches
im thinking of getting the 60hev2 module
cf plate
tx ap stabs rev 4
still thinking between l45 v2 or lekker tikken (i like faster lighter siwtches)
anyone have any recs or anything i should change?
reusing optimum case + keycaps
if you want the lightest without having to change the springs yourself, the mmd c1s are the lightest afaik
tikkens are a pretty decent step up from lekkers
what about the ttc kom poms?
Raptor HE V2's are bangers too
how do i get the tofu and the pcb to line up at the usb c
its kinda low rn
can someone help im tryna go to sleep😭
also it came with tape idk whats thats for
Module comes with preinstalled tape mod
Actual tape, not a PET film
yeah idk
https://link.wooting.io/soundtests
Everything's here mate, including sound tests, wobble ratings, spring weights, materials
Oh damn nice, and here I had tape ready for a mod haha
Oh sweet, do you know if we'll be able to buy the pet film as well as an addon to the module?
I have no clue where you'd even get pet film
No, because there's no point. Tape mod is there already. Unless you mean this PET film that goes on top of the PCBA. If so that's already there.
Aha okay, I was wondering about the PET film. Didn't know if that was included in the module or just in the full keyboard
Is this also included in module or nah
Yes
Starting fights with people that say silver gt60 doesnt look great
youre not
the module is the same as if youd disassemble a preassembled board and leave away the case, case filler, switches and caps
youre not ready
for how good it is

hello, im very noob at lubing, do you guys think raptor v2 factory lube is good enough?
Yes, it's good
@gaunt plume https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=990354349133 xvx silent switch: snow step switch
Hrm same design as the tecsee and raeds I see
Ttc ice god soon
I hope there’s something new with ice god
It’s been awhile since they actually did something interesting to flagship besides change the magnet
patiently waiting on new UFO listings (perhaps the transparent version too)
$1.7 a switch
Custom Molds, materials
people keep eating them
"Exclusivity"
Anyone here rocking the Aliexpress fr4 plate on the 80HE?
Yes, me
How do you find the quality of it?
Yeah that was the one i was linked earlier today
No issues with stabs? as in no modifications needed or anything
Nope
Ok i might just order it then. Cheap enough to just give it a go.
you rocking it in the gt80 or zinc?
is this one listing/link? can you share?
None, plastic. Getting v2 instead
or just share the item id, thats probably best
yeah fair call. I currently have the plastic aswell.
Just ordered a gt80 thouygh
so will give it a go with the fr4
yeah seems like its super easy to mod forsure.
By the way, you can order 80HE compatible FR4 plate from KBDfans too
Keyboard funstore plates are usually perfect
Great vendor
oh damn. didnt realise. I already ordered the case. Will have to pay shipping again. so might have to just go with funstore instead
perfect. about to order right now. Might just go with the white fr4 and give it a go
Yeah, then get from Ali. Fun store plate is better, because it's compatible with Wooting cases too, KBDfans plate is only compatible with the GT80.
Ive never swapped plates before so is it as simple as replacing the stock pc one? thats it?
Ive seen the toronto man one comes with a bunch of foams etc.
Yea, it's easy. You just have to install the standoffs
Ok and i assume the funstore one comes with the stand offs?
They were included in my package
and for my next noob question. Is this so that you can ensure a tight fit with the fr4 plate yeah? as stock one obviously has no stand offs
So essentially replace stock one with fr4 with stand offs so that it can be tightened down
Stock plate also has standoffs, they're built into the plate.
On aftermarket plates you have to install them yourself
Ok yeah makes sense. just not inbuilt with the fr4. easy then.
Just ordered the plate from funstore. Thanks for your help.
Yeah. Just have to install 15 standoffs, then swap the stock plate with it and screw everything together
Fingers crossed this one comes with the standoffs haha
It does. Otherwise, there would be an option to purchase them separately. I used their screws and standoffs for the plate, and then the stock 80HE screws to secure everything together.
nevermind its literally in the description that it comes with standoffs lol
Picked up 4 switches and they gave me a 2 in 1 puller worth 19 yuan lol
Jabber you seem to be registered on alot of these sites, do you happen to have a JD account too?
@tropic urchin 
ig i gotta go with hypekeyboards and request for them to put tabs on the plate
Pretty much
i do but i rarely use it, the launch promos are botted to hell
ty thats how i ended up doin mine, i just dont know how to line it up now with the usb c
@robust siren howd u line up the usb in the tofu cuz its too low rn
wdym its too low
if youre using friction fit just push the top half of the pcb lower
or pull it up slightly
would it not fall when u type if u type hard?
did u screw anything directly or nah
do you have the tofu60 or the tofu60 redux
redux
rn i have the brass plate, and the foam it came with inside, but when i place it usually its lower than the usb
yeah the redux allows for left and right movement in the case
is the hole in the case lower or is the usb-c too low inside the case?
the usb c on the pcb is too low
huh thats weird
i can have it hover and line up but
i also dont have anything to screw it in rn
huh
yea
do i just have to buy the rubbers to ground it
cuz idt mine have any
you use screws
or a singular screw
Guys which website other than Ali express can u get the flux (deep clack) switches?
in the top right standoff
aliexpress is the cheapest
so just put a screw in here and rest it?
I can’t buy from Ali express idrm the expense I just wanna know if there are any other places?
yes
wuque studios has their own website but its double the price @$2/switch
Oh dam.
shii tyty, works now
wss building after my shift at like 3am so i didnt even think of it
yea
the tofu came with a thing of tape but idk what thats for
This it correct?
yep
it did?
mine didnt
i ended up chipping the side of the tofu last night somehow😭😭idk if ima cover it up lol
i didnt know what came with my GT-60 before i ordered it
mine is still in prestine condition after a year
yeah idk how
cuz it wss just on the table
nothing near it
when i was lubing the stabs
average 3am activity memory
fr
Any chance you could fetch me the link for the ATK F1 V2 mouse? (extreme blue variant).
It would be awesome if you could Sir!
Btw if I was buying the switches on aliexpress is aliexpress safe or similar to temu?
Same rules apply, but AliE was a thing for many years, not sure when Temu came, but when it comes to popularity Temu only replaced it in recent years.
The tape is cut into semi circles, they sit on the little steps your PCB sits on, around the inside edge of the case.
It's like a little dampener thing
I had to figure that out when I first got my tofu

Nice keyboard
tyty
silver case?
the yakult board gg
right next to the smietana
everyone knows the feeling of downing these like shots
try toronto keyboard man they have pink flux listed for decent price
KKB Sojus (ABS) -> first vid
PBTFans Crosshair (PBT) -> second vid
Time to lube worlds most expensive frankenswitches
Guys HMX Hyacinth V2U Linear Switches or WS Flux Switch (Deep Clacky)?
wdym Flux is cheap AF, UFO is the new champion of coin 
I said frankens
that refers to what exactly?
Mix of 2 switches
Fuu
so there are cheaper frankenswitches then, got it
I need those switches
Guys HMX Hyacinth V2U Linear Switches or WS Flux Switch (Deep Clacky)?
the HMX switches won't work in a HE board
so ws
Ohh thx I didn’t realize the difference thanks!
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009888870031.html here they should go down to 67,5 EUR starting on the 1st of November
at 90 pieces that is
they are tikken switches just recolored for a one off production btw
We don’t care, I don’t care 
just to set realistic expectations.
Anyone know how much the V2 will cost in CAD?
new collector 
Does the aluminum case cost $239.99 and the module costs 139.99???
Thats expensive af
Wdym always has been the price hasnt been revealed yet?
v2 module is same price as v1
I think they meant that Wooting has always had premium pricing.
and $240 isn't even bad for a prebuilt alu case
I guess im just saying the aluminum case is ssuper expensive holy shit
its 240 for the aluminum
perhaps not the module then
240 must be for the prebuilt, not just the case...
Yeah lol
no but thats not what it implies ill show you
$240 is prebuilt
🤷 idk what to tell ya
yeah that's prebuild
yes
Yes
I was like holy fuck tahts expensive af just for the aluminum case
So much can we expect the aluminum case to cost
So that's case, module, stabs, caps
I think you could extrapolate that it's gonna be in the $100 range
dunno if it's been announced
I suppose
Wait a second though isnt the prebuilt supposed to be more expensive then buying the case and module seperately
IIRC the prebuilt and self assembly routes were almost exactly the same price for the 80HE
If you are assembling it yourself it should be cheaper
So it was more a question of whether you want to use your own parts, or customize, and if so maybe a prebuilt was not helpful for you.
There's a 10 dollar or euro premium for the module because of the added logistics, packaging, and pick/pack costs
If you already have just one component you'd prefer to use, keycaps or switches for example, then it's cheaper to get the module
Re: it should be more expensive to buy the pre-built
Is there anything special about the switchy heist tikken switches or are they just a different colour?
||they are just recolored tikkens||
Ah I see
...with a twist?!
the twist is you can only get them during the campaign
I like the pricing
Yo one other question dudes technically cant you just use 60HE+ friction fit into the V2 aluminum case and be done
Yes, mostly
And you dont need the 60HE V2 module
i mean if all you want is the new case i guess?
Also does the aluminum case come with the silicone block?
That would be a bizarro move to buy a v2 just for the case though…
Why lol
Why wouldn’t you use the v2 module?
We don’t sell the case by itself though
At that point you can buy one of many cases if all you want is a new case, unless for some reason you’re really attached to the v2 metal case
Doesnt the V2 aluminum case come with either silicone block or EPDM foam?
yeah but we provide those options in the past as well with v1 stuff
are you meaning all the sound upgrades we did to the v2?
Those come as part of the v2 module sandwich, not the case
No im talking about the bottom case dampener the silicone block
Not in the module sandwich
Yeah those things have been available in various forms in v1 kits with various setups already
That’s not super new to v2 case or anything
Yeah okay but im asking if you buy the module kit does that silicone block come with the case?
Like when I go to pre-order the module + case does that silicone block come with the case
Yes, those are part of the case
Dont you get the option to choose either EPDM or Silicone block ?
No both come with the case
Ohhhhh ok gotcha
Then you use whatever you want
Wait does a silicone block come with the V1 HE+ also???
And I didnt notice that
The prebuilt 60 HE +
Can’t remember if it came with v1 but we included all sorts of random bits like that with optimum and friction fit setups in past
no
it was just foam
Thanks
Cause I prefer the silicone block sounds so much better to me
But getting the option to use both is nice
Some 3rd party cases come with it too, like I think I have silicone block sitting around from the old 60% freebird case
Ah I see
@glacial wind Can I ask you about a wooting video sound test I saw I will link it and then ask my question if you dont mind
sure
Many requested a sound test with all the new switches in the Wooting 60HE. Now I can please all of you with a proper friction fit sound test! Switches tested in the video are the: Lekker V2, Genty Silent, regular Jade, Jade Pro, Jade Max, Magneto RGB, Magneto POM and the RAW HE.
🛒 Get the Friction fit pad https://wooting.io/product/friction-...
So the mods in this video are:
oh man that's an old one
- Friction fit, -pc plate, -silicone sandwich pad, -EPDM bottom case foam ?
And that is the optimum case correct?
yes
And also does the optimum case come with the friction fit pad for the module?
i think so
yes
yes


