#🔧│keyboard_modding
1 messages · Page 694 of 1
sard
idk how far u are in nine sols
but theres this one sect that would make me bust if i had oled
I wasnt sure where to go so I looked to see where the start was and found my way
got to the bell room with the weird solarian lookin mfer
so prob not close to it
yeah ur not there yet
but once u do
be prepared with a new pair of pants
Jagged Peaks in ER DLC has spoiled me for OLED environment supremacy so will be waiting
and also this same sect also has someone with massive jiggle physics
speaking of massive jiggle physics i need to play stellar blade
just searched the game up and i understand
just came out on PC 1-2 days ago to overwhelmingly positive so good denuvo port which is rare
lore accurate Sno glass pad
im on my 2nd nine sols playthrough rn
when she giggles once it jiggles 2x more
Gotta have the perfect giggle to jiggle ratio 
Good news silksong is never releasing
gives me time to play the other ones
oh and my gmk blacksnails and hmx 1989 are safe and sound @thorn zealot
nope i have them

grrrrrrrrrrrrrr
typing on them as we speak
hopefully better than my wooting
the benom is being taking well cared of
idk mane
my wooting is in the midst of being touched by a oily gaymer as well phish
i wonder how my gmk 80082 is doing
probably shining brighter than the stars

my cream set turned into gmk boneyard by my friend🥀
no he turned beige/cream color keycaps to gray from his grime
shrink tube mod on stabs so nice
get a cipulot pcb and sell those 2
yo guys, im looking for a cheap case to build my wooting60he in, any recommendations? Im from europe
Man TTC POM on Aluminum is a pleasure to type on.
I wish Wooting sold the stock plastic case separate, NGL
Totally different switches. Long pole vs full travel, closed bottom vs open bottom.
If gaming is your priority the Lekker v2's are great. Ultimately personal preference but I'd you're used to the travel of the v1's the v2's will feel similar
Not that they are better or worse but if you're already using full travel switches and all you care about is gaming, then smthe v2's will feel the same
Fatigue would typically be from spring weight and not travel diatance. Although sometimes shorter travel can be worse as you're bottoming out much more quickly.
Its better but still way worse than other options
Have you checked TTC KOM RGB?
They are very tight
and have great RGB
Wooting sells them
KOMs arent the best sounding tho, but if you hand lube them, they are ok
No, they have completely different sound profile. Loud and clacky.
They will sound cleaner than Lekker v1s. Lekkers are chattery mess due to huge amount of stem wobble.
did someone get banned
No
all messages gone
are there any new switches in development
Gateron is releasing a switch with new molds, so it wont be another recolored jade pro
thought this was a wooting for a sec i was like what witchcraft did u use
please have other materials than POM stem, PC top, Nylon bottom 🙏
It will have POM stem and bottom, PC top
are u deadass
Yes
i mean u can almost do this in a wooting too
what’s it called
tbf we already had an all POM switch
Buddys gf looking to get pink he switches, which would be the ‘better’ one of these 2
And they gotta be pink lol
Paired with og wooting 60he
throw in the sakura poms too
Ill have to see if those are locally available
Who makes them
the herz are same as ti he iirc
if so those are very good
both have different sound profile imo
herz is a mid pitched clack
while ur studio is deep
Forgetting sound, what would be the most stable?
the same
u won't notice any difference in terms of stability
Which would you get
ngl
i like mid pitch clack bcs of HE
but if i was transitioning from deep mech switches, then i would get the urstud
How come
because ur stud switches have a deeper sound profile
i suggest to buy a tester first tho
herz if they were using raws before
Okay ty
gateron moonlight HE?
No
Because its just jade pro recolor, boring
cant get any cheaper
gateron
There’s new phylina thunderflash pro too that’s pink
They’re box stems too if you care about that
Also ttc magneto love which is their pink version of magneto rgb
buying switches based on color seems silly
never argue against a significant other who wants a specific color
this is a life lesson
the phylina "flashning powder"
@glacial wind saeroyi has maximum aura and he is still farming wtf
the entire drama is him never stopping farming

Thanks but none available and needed at short notice
Got the Herz, factory lubed they said for wooting get the 900g instead of 700 for some reason
Both work fine on wooting
I got the 900 as per instruction
guys what should i buy OWLab Ti or Duhuk Herz?
Both good, I’d just buy whatever is cheaper personally
If I change my current 60 he switches to gateron jades or geon raws will it be on par with the new v2 on base build ?
using the stock lekker v1.5 rn
you have pre-built 60HE or got the module and build it yourself ?
it will not be even close. You have clip-in stabs, no PET film on the PCB and the switches do not have full 4 mm travel
wait for the v2 and then sell your OG
aight, thanks!
don't waste money on sub-par switches. you will not get the full experience
I was planning to sell my og for a holy 60 case 😆
imo,
now wooting has 2 type of product
lots of oem holy 60 but i still prefer to get the genuine one
does ur pcb have holes for screw in stabs?
I 'personally' do not like the Holy, beause the sound profile is too hollow
the OG doesn't
you will ruin the PCB if you try to drill holes
will you recommend the tofu 60 instead?
that's why there is a 60HE+
It's a matter of preference, but I would prefer the Redux over the Holy yes (with the weight)
so lekker v2 >>>> sub par switches?
yes, because v2 will ship with tikkers. But you had originally mentioned jades or raw (which do not have full travel)
save more money and buy the gt60 case from kbdfans
multi mount capability
well if you’re going to get switches then we’d normally suggest a more newer gen switch like owlab ti, but either way switches alone won’t turn a v1 into a v2
aight, thanks!
the biggest selling point for the v2 for me is the film and the switches
the correct question should be "do you need the new things on the 60he v2?"
heard of owlabs but very difficult to purchase unless I travel to china
do you need 8Khz?
do you need the stock alu case?
do you need anything else?
Where are you based?
sg
Huh? You can buy owlab ti switches locally for sure
u can buy locally
i forgot the store name
but my friends in sg bought them locally
IS IT PRONOUNCED AS OWL LAB OR OW LAB Specifications:Switch Type: Magnetic LinearPre Travel: 0.1 - 3.3mmOperating Force: 40g / 50gInitial Magnetic Flux: 120GsBottom Magnetic Flux: 750GsTotal Travel: 3.4mmTop Housing: PCBottom Housing: Nylon (Closed-Bottom)Stem Material: POMLifetime: 100 Million KeystrokesFactory Lubric
Ktechs has them too iirc
@high nymph a hater for sure
yes knowing that 60he og is only 1khz

because i told my friend that has the OG 60he (ARM but not yet the screw in stabs support)
that is mostly placebo.. you can't actually tell if a key is on 1khz or 8khz , I promise you that
will check this site, thanks!
i asked him if he needs all the new things or features on v2?
he said not really only the screw in stabs
and i told him one plate mount stab which is good already
and stable imo
that does make some difference. thats why I advise to purchase the module always
the plate mount are not bad, but not stellar either
nah, u should try the ds focus plate mount...
it's not like it's a good option for stabs mounting
well, asus still sells keyboards with costars so .....
but i can say it's almost on par with some screw in stabs brand
will just wait for the v2 instead
good for you if u can decide already
so geon raws, raptors and lucifers are still considered slower ?
outdated for now
owlab ti is a better version which is similar to geon raw sound profile
how about aeboard raeds
if u want a deeper sound profile u can get urstudio ice ultra
those are different switches 😭
Not really slower just less tight mostly
raeds are similar to dome switches
i see
Lucifer were also never meant to be a top tier feeling/performing switch either. They’re just a cheapie box stem for people who want something really cheap to throw into geon builds
the annoying keycap wobble during clutch situations
Raeds are their own thing where if you buy raeds you buy it for feel and sound alone and you don’t care about performance
if u want a tight switch, then purchase ttc kom rgb / ttc kom pom
They’re less accurate than typical switches so generally don’t buy raeds for gaming unless you don’t mind that
aight
I run jades and OWL TI Switches b4 theyre also nice
💪
special foam to dampen all of the sounds except for crunch
Exactly
Check prices on Amazon below
Monsgeek FUN60 TMR: https://geni.us/5QfD
Ducky One X Mini: https://geni.us/rfBnbX
Wooting 60HE: https://wooting.io/wooting-60he
Wooting 80HE: https://wooting.io/wooting-80he
Optimum x Wooting collab: https://wooting.io/project-optimum
Where did all the mechanical keyboards go?
Need a new wallpaper? https://optim...
minimalist papa makes a new keyboard video

80HE
IS THEREEE
Don’t tell @calm pulsar @thorn zealot
yo is that finally a good HE switch???
or is it just clickbait and the vid is about wooting collab?
Binally
Baw
fuck I started to have hope but the switch from the thumbnail is not even in the video💀
My keyboard just came, what mods do you think I should get?
l45 right?
he used it on typing test
for 80he
it is not a lekker
oh the mech keyboard space is going to go off on optimum for that video lol
it's meant to be an mx is dead in gaming video, but there's definitely going to be some folks who take it to mean he's saying all custom keyboards are dead vs he
Does anybody have any tips on how to improve the "quality" of a cable such that it does have a stroke when enabling RGB? My coiled cable starts pressing like every single key all at once when I enable RGB 😦
3rd party coiled cable?
they're usually too long/poorly made wiring and won't work at high rgb + tachyon mode
those coils add a ton of length which makes it have power issues when you combine those factors
I don't even have tachyon mode enabled so I guess my cable is just terrible 😦
most coiled cables have issues even if they're well built if they're long
So it's generally just the length that causes issues?
So if I shorten the length of the cable it's possible it might improve the situation? I made my cable with an absurd length which was fine on all my previous custom boards but the wooting seems to have issues. (It's like 5m-6m excluding the coil lol)
yeah if it's a short cable then it doesn't have as many power issues, it's why wooting normally recommends cable same or less long vs. their stock cable
but you have to remember to measure the coiled unrolled though. so 20cm of coils can be waaaay more in length
Is there any other way to force a higher voltage for longer lengths? Like I can I run it in USB 3.0 for higher voltage or something?
not without physically having better cable
what defines a "better" cable? The guage of the wire?
you can technically have a long length coiled cable but it'd be a giant thick boy that might cost you $500 in some absurd high end wire
i'm not even sure where you'd get one made since no one really does that
the simple answer is more of a 'no you can't' unless you're willing to spend absurd money
Do you know what exactly defines the "quality/better" cables? Would love to just improve mine and still maintain ~3m ish length
power delivery of the wire basically
the realistic answer is you're probably not going to find one with coils
PD delivery USB cables do not have coils or any type on whine prevention
also, PD cables are not suitable for data transfer, so .....
basically you'd have to lose your coils and just go for a straight cable
i'm not talking about PD specifically
not the standard, i mean the literal power
So I'm guessing it's not as simple as just increasing the guage of the wire? I would need some sort of power delivery over the CC line?
no increasing the guage would actually probably work, but what I'm saying is i don't even know who or where you could get that made
i don't know a single custom cable maker that does that for example
It's a DIY cable that I made myself, so if it really is as easy as just increasing the guage of the wire, that wouldn't be too unreasonable to remake it (although getting a nice coil is a pain in the ass)
any USB 2.0 is (in theory) is capable of supplying the necessary power to a Wooting keyboard: 500 mA
He said his 80he is not modded but I can literally see and hear the foam
yeah we're not talking about the usb stuff
just raw power sent via the cable
Now ik he rly likes the foamy sound and that’s why the 80he is his best sounding kb
you could try, i'm not sure what the formula you'd need is to know exactly what guage you'd need for 3m and coils though, which would be like a 4m cable
Does Tachyon mode increase power draw? Is there any information on what/how it actually works?
Yes, but its actually the RGB that drains the most current
iirc there's a very rough measurement thing one of the staff made somewhere, but i don't know how accurate that was
Yeah RGB power draw makes total sense, I'm just confused what Tachyon mode even does. Been using the board for a little while and it's been totally fine but decided to setup multiple profiles today and enabled RGB on the second profile only to have the board start pressing every single key all at once until I switched to a ~0.5m straight cable
because Tachyon mode increases processing power on the MCU
oh here, i found untameds chart
keep note that this is just a rough thing he did and may not be accurate
that power jump from nontachyon to tachyon all white though
seems about right with my evidence testing as well (I was actually desigining a Power Training Sprint for my work)
Ah looks like I went worst case secnario then lol, from Tachyon Off RGB Off straight to Tach ON, White 100%
the real question would be just how fancy you'd have to go on wire guage for it to work
Thanks for all the info, I think I'll just trim a few metres of the cable length and reduce RGB brightness, I really only wanted it to quickly tell what profile I had enabled
yeah just reducing rgb percentage by a bit is an easy way to make longer cables work easier
especially since it's already plenty bright without going all the way to 100%
me using fully opaque keycaps
Put glitter on your keycaps
this will work 😄
Any idea if the little breakout board on the USB-C end has any effect on the power delivery capabilities? Just trying to find the right one was already confusing enough for me lol
Shouldn't. The JST connection was designed for the workload of the keyboard so ...
I'm on a 60HE so no JST daughter board 😦
Already happening 💀
then no worries 🙂
So I should be good to just pick up either a high power charging cable and steal the wires from it or just buy some wires that match the guage used for those?
i'm not surprised at all
they have a habit of missing the point and thinking every topic is directed at their customer base
What is your main goal? How long do you need the USB cable ?
~3m ish cable with ~15cm ~1cm wide coil
(also using an aviator connector if that makes any difference)
You don't need coils. I use a cable like this successfully: https://www.banggood.com/Baseus-Tungsten-Gold-240W-Type-C-to-Type-C-Cable-PD3_1-Power-Delivery-Fast-Charging-Data-Transmission-Tinned-Copper-Core-Line-1M-or-2M-or-3M-Long-for-Huawei-Mate50-for-Samsung-Galaxy-S23-for-Oppo-Reno9-for-Redmi-K60-p-1984930.html?cur_warehouse=CN&ID=44705
i think he wants the coils specifically though
Well the thing is optimum said he is better for gaming and it is on par with sound
Yeah it's not that I need coils, more that I just like the look of a fancy cable
but why? May be worthwhile to investigate the power filtering instead
he definitely is better for gaming, the problem is the sound part but honestly the top tier he is close enough that for everyone except that specific custom keyboard crowd the sound gap is very small now
With all that said anyway, just dropping my brightness to 75% and it seems to working perfectly fine with full white + tachyon
Yeah that’s my thoughts too
But I think optimum is going off of mx ideas from like 2020, which is what other ppl in the comments said as well
Then there’s the occasional “ur coping if u think mx sounds better”
But ight
yeah but they're kind of missing the forest for the trees
As someone who's built $500 customs before, the sound of the HE is pretty much onpar.
The real issue is the fact that it requires such a solid plate which leaves a lot to be desired in terms of feel
that's kind of always been the problem with talking to niche hobby crowds is they get so engrained into the importance of smaller details that are super important to them that they miss the larger point
you just shouldn't really use POM plates. you can pretty much get away with almost anything else, if well designed
optimum wasn't fully right in all his points, including him not really elaborating on tmr vs he sensor pros/cons but his general point was correct even with the mistakes
Yeah agree with the point of what he is saying, just the way he did it was a lil off
From what I read, the whole magnetic switch doesn't really work with a lot of flex in the plate and has to be quite rigid
the flex part is an interesting part too of the discussion with the different crowds
because custom keyboard crowd likes some flex usually, but if you poll a lot of more competitive gamer types you'll find a lean towards stiffer less bounce for some games
when you're playing with such sensitive settings sometimes the last thing i want is my strafe input to have bounce
Yeah makes sense, I've mostly used custom boards with a lot of flex, but after picking up the wooting I didn't realise how much better the "stiff" plate feels for gaming (aside from the whole anologue/rapid trigger benefit)
how is bros fun60 tmr in a holy60, i thought they're not gh60
there's a way
since holy60 has holes on the port walls
i saw someone made the tutorial on akko / monsgeek discord server
ill look it up
why i can't see any daughter board
he's selling the tmr so i'm guessing that
nah man
that's the normal ver.
there is no hotswap socket
no wonder
wait
@sweet oak I saw this in my yt rec and I need to hear ur thoughts https://youtu.be/8PNbX5iwlVA?si=Bp1DdfA25Cb43oRL
my brain is disconnected rn
that is woot 60he pcb
bro is trying to sabotage me
😭
ah that's should be it
but someone uses the holy 60 for their fun60 tho
dunno if this came true or not
The best part of this video is the 26th second
Its getting there, but that is not the true crunch method
Yeah imo 4/10 on the crunch scale
A reasonable rating
What do yall think of the sound of the phylina lightning (switch only, recorded on samsung s22)
phylinas just sound like a differently pitched owlab ti to me
HE does not even sound close to as good as MX 💀
Smthing abt optimum’s latest video makes it feel more like a paid ad for HE switches
Performance > sound for gaming, all it is
Blud just discovered America omg
We havent hear lekker tikkens tho
Or are you yet another Estonian intelligence spy?
I mean he did collab with wooting
There is some bias there
Dollars to donuts, I could put 5 of my HE boards with 5 MX boards and in a blind test you couldn't identify them all correctly.
If only that was a FUN60..
A good mx board sounds better almost all the time
HE is really only good for playing competitive games ig
hence why i only built one and would never build more than one
Totally get not needing more than one HE board in your case, just saying that HE has matured so quickly that a well built one is almost indistinguishable from a similar MX build. For example the, since you're in the JJW discord, I converted my Derivative into a HE version and it sounds as good as it did when I built it as MX.
i find that he switches tend to sound a bit muddier (yes even geon raws) almost as if someone stuffed the case with some sort of foam.
it doesnt quite get close to as good as cherry switches in high end builds imo
I also own the derivative and my favourite config by far would be nixies on PP plate top mounted
If you're comparing MX to Geon Raws then I agree. However the switches out in the last year and coming in the next few months are night and day better
its bikken time
I'm running Owlab TI HE's on PP plate, top mounted
I might try the owlab TI HE’s in the future
Id argue within a year the line between HE and MX will be almost non-existent
I believe that there is a reason why most keyboard enthusiast still prefer MX switches though despite it having objectively worse performance. The sound makes up for the performance easily.
Well MX has had quite a bit of a head start. I've only been using HE for the last 4yrs but MX more than twice that
either way optimum’s video seem poorly researched at first glance. I mean why is he even using ChatGPT 💀
also correlating cherry’s declining stock price to that of HE switches to “prove” his point is just…
FR4 + TI HE sounds heavenly
Which Optimum video are we referring to btw? I have t checked his channel out recently
This one prop
It is tho
Yeah just watched the video. MX isnt dead and never will be but I've been telling people that MX is slowly becoming more like vinyl albums and analog/manual watches (of which I own a ton of both). There will always be an appreciation for the classics and collectors/purists to buy them.
i'd wager the reason is mostly that a lot of enthusiasts don't have that big overlap with competitive gamers
it took a very long time for a lot of enthusiast to stop saying "HE does nothing, rt just saves a few ms that you can't notice" because they just never really even understood the dynamics behind it
I'm trying to change that one enthusiast at a time!
somewhere out there in australia right now is yifang as former val/ow pro and he's still using his unlubed lekker v1
the complete opposite scenario where he doesn't care at all about the keyboard beyond basic performance lol
I feel like the watches reference is a perfect example. My brother is a diver and always wears his digital watch that tracks depth, pressure, oxygen, etc etc and his diving partner will only wear his old school analog diving watch that he has had for 20yrs, because he cares more about the looks and the sentiment behind it than the advanced features of my brother's watch.
btw i kinda disagree on the part where the sound can be replicated. People have been trying to replicate the classic cherry switch sound for the longest time yet none have been able to do so.
If even MX switches can't replicate it i highly doubt HE switches would be able to do so
Maybe, but some people can't stand the cherry scratch or sound. So preference is key here. The gap between HE and MX is rapidly closing though, that's not really up for debate.
there's degrees to all of this really. Like to the average person they don't even notice say 10% difference between he and mx sound even now, but someone heavy into the scene sees that 10% as life or death differences as big as the grand canyon
Perhaps that might be the case but I highly doubt it will ever be identical as they are mechanically different.
ive been wondering for a loong fucking time; is your pfp Kaguya?
good
it's been like that since... 5-7 years already
i think the big thing is realizing that different groups of people have very different weights on things and not everyone is as particular about 100% 1:1 replication down to the exact decimal and tone that someone hyper into the scene might be
ye i wouldve lost my mind if it wasnt
Exactly like vinyl albums and CD's. There is just something about that analog sound that some people will always look for (and as Sno said, only some people can even detect, much less appreciate) and I think it's the exact same in the keyboard example.
@stray tiger I put owlabs on benom alu plate and it almost feels like old fluxies on booting🔥
Idk why but on fr4 they sound muddy but on alu they’re supercharged and better sound
me dislike fr4 plates
I can't believe I see the days where MX is becoming like vinyl and headphones
if i order an 80he module with the geon raw HE switches, will they come with different stabilizers compared to if i ordered it with the lekker switches?
No
Yet it's true
Cuz alu is better than fr4 and if u don’t agree with me ur wrong and I’m supreme truth
I’d try to get owlab ti hes if you can since they’re priced similarly but are improved version of RAWs
I think they have their place. Depends on the board, the switch, etc. Hell the main reason I even have some many boards is that the sound I'm craving changes daily.
Switch dependent, but benom sound is a whiplash since it’s very naked without most other foams etc
It makes 42.5g spring owlabs sound like 60g it’s wild
Btw for anyone in the US, Keebhut is going out of business and has some cheap stuff in sale.
How does the diff weight change sound
I will say that one advantage of getting to be as old as I am is that eventually your hearing starts to go to shit and everything sounds great
in which ways are they better?
Owlabs are better in every aspect except the RGB
ah why is that.. aren't the stock stabs meant for regular switches and not long pole?
Idk the technical term, but when I played with different weights, the heavier the spring it made the sound louder and changed how it sounded when I was using 60-80g springs for my artisan before I just kept springs stock
Maybe the heavier spring rebounds faster for a louder top out
on my 60HE with stock stabs the keys that have stabilizers are not sitting level on both sides
And when I used geon pingless on my Jade pros it made it super quiet
seems nice, i do like my rgb tho hahah
the volume of the top out sound is affected by the weight of the spring and the length.
RGB is still decent
Wouldnt buy raws only for RGB
It's more likely a different spring changes the sound more so than it being the weight. If both springs were identical other than weight, there shouldn't be a noticeable sound difference
Yeah that’s what I thought
long springs are nice
Your 42.5g springs are pingless, thats why they sound different
Stock stabs stay the same no matter what from prebuilt or module. The only stab that might not play nicely is space bar, but you can either 1). Have no issues (50/50 if you do), 2). Use geon stem spacers and 3). Use 3rd party long pole stabs
fair, i'm currently using jades and the wobble is fine but i'm worried if the tolerances are tighter that the switch will feel more sticky
No, it wont
when i press my keys at a slight angle they feel like there is resistance
it rarely ever goes to that point unless the switches are defective like my batch of gateron summertime v1s
already
In fact raws will feel sticky at the top, because of the design flaw.
Owlab doesnt have this
interesting
i haven't heard of this
i guess i haven't been in active in the comm for a bit lol
i'm building an 80he soon so this is useful info i appreciate it
Its common issue with Raws, they feel sticky at the top
hmm alright
Also, unless you just need/want new switches today, the Lekker Tikken's should be available in the near future.
yeah i'm avoiding that then
yep i'm interested in those
there is no information on those though
since they were just announced
Its only noticeable when you press them slightly, I noticed it instantly and couldnt use it anymore 😆
100% rec owlabs for now, RGB is barely impacted by owlabs from my experience
I've had them for a while now and they are an improvement in every way
i would probably notice it too, things like those can annoy me lol. best if i just get the switch that doesn't have the flaw
Yeah
will keep in mind
Owlabs are raws without flaws
OH you have them already? hmmm
"raws without flaws" 😄
are you allowed to send a sound test here
Yes and no.
crazy line
fair.
Go raw without flaws, or go home
how do you compare those to the competitors then
like the owlabs ti
the actuation is 4.0mm is one
An improved version of the Owlab TI's that's slightly deeper and full travel. That's exactly how I would describe them
that sounds very nice.. i might go for tikkens then
Need them right now!

Ill be giving it my crunch verdict day 1
i've been using 3.5mm switches for about 5 years though, i don't remember how 4mm travel feels
do you prefer them
Crunch ❌
Crunch 🌹
shf hating 🥀
I never do that
you're right, you're a new man
Yes.
peace, love and positivity
Spread love
Spread crunch
yeah Alu plate is 100% staying on benom with owlabs, zis is nice
what is a benom
what are your thoughts on 3.4mm vs 4.0mm switches
i dislike long pole switches
I like 3.4mm right now, only because Lekkers are dogwater. Tikkens might change this
perma-ed
I feel like its basically impossible to 100% sit your spacebar perfectly straight leading to eventual ticking. Also not a fan of the reduced travel
lets say the owlabs were 4.0mm would you take those?
over the 3.4
Probably, with 4mm I feel like I have more control, for example in OSU
yep, my spacebar ticking side to side is kind of severe in my case
oh okay
i play fps games mainly
i hope it doesn’t feel worse, its subjective though so idk lets see lol
when should i expect tikkens to be available for purchase
You can get owlabs now and then order 12pc tikkens to try them out and see if you like 4mm travel
seems like a good idea
the keycaps don’t sit at different heights on long pole vs normal correct?
all the tikken talk makes me wanna grab it for my woot
Q4 so end of the year
guys what should i buy OWLab Ti or Duhuk Herz?
Same thing
i’ll get the owlabs for now then
anyone have an answer to this?
most stabs are ment for full travel switches. If you're using a long pole switch with a stabaliser ment for 4mm switches u have a bit of empty space at the bottom of the stabaliser stem.
oh i don’t mean the stabs
there is also a high chance where ur spacebar (assuming fully straight) sits at an angle causing eventual ticking
i mean the top of the stem would be lower than on a 4mm switch yes?
so the keycaps would be lower
no when not actuated the switch height remains the same
yeah i guess u could put it that way
how do the tikkens achieve that with a closed bottom
Shorter stem
Im such a joke, I ordered two 10packs of owlab ti he (40g and 50g) and I still CAN'T decide which I use (to order the remaining 80)the lighter ones feel more familiar(Apex Pro has around 40g bottom out too I think)but missinputs could be a thing and the heavier ones are not bad too but Im scared I will experience fatique or that im not used to it. I dont want to mix them though
does anyone know how to replace the stabilizer when it doesnt have the screw in thing to the pcb
50g is fine as a balanced option. You can counter 40g misinputs by making actuation higher if you want. Personal preference really, but if the decision is giving you pause get 50g and order 42.5g geon pingless springs and try both out and see which you like more
I personally like how the lighter is, but everyone is different on their feels
Makes sense, I just want to really choose one, because open up all switches would be alot of effort which I prefer not to make. I also like the feeling of light switches (even on my wobbly gen 1 omipoints) but I never had different ones for the last 5 years so I can only make a comparison now. I mostly use my kb for gaming and most have lighter switches. Is there another downside to very light/lighter switches (rebound or something else)
you use 40g owlab ti he ? or generally lighter ones
I bought 50g and had 42.5g springs available so I tried both and swapped them
400g
Just buy 50s and see how you like them. Your worst case scenario is you hate them and you buy lighter springs which don’t take long to swap
you think so ? Its probably the safest pick
It’s safer yeah
One isn’t inherently better than the other
Just preference
I have 50g and 40gs here I even build a contraption, Its really embarassing😭
If you stay around here long enough, there’s a lot of placebo maxing so you’re in good hands 
yeah Im just a really really really bad decision maker
especially if its fatal and forces me to pay more, wait longer or put more effort in something
50g is really light
Nah just get 50s and don’t overcomplicate it
Spring swapping is the easy and only takes 20-30 mins
what stabilisers are those?
Which is your worst case
I assume they are pcb clip ins?
you think so, what switches yo use ?
u hook it to the larger holes then use smthing like the back of a pair of tweezers to push the other end into the smaller holes
i like using 60g 22mm springs for most of my switches
67g 16mm for some
I will decide by tomorrow evening, thank you, the bottom half can be in the module so I dont need to pull out every switch completely and put it in again
you play alot of games ?
i guess?
or play alot
I mean there are people that play games that dont require alot of kb pressinf and some dont play games and only type
i play some shooters
for me personally I didnt like the stock 60s lekkers
whats the exact name of the springs ?
just get geon or tx springs if you want to swap them out
they will be more consistent than your stock springs with less variance between each spring
Geon HE Compatible Springs are pingless springs that are made of a non-magnetic material in order to not conflict with the Hall sensor. Geon HE Compatible Springs Feature: 110(+5) springs included in each pack Made of non-magnetic material that does not conflict with the Hall sensor Characterized by zero ping even with
there are so many options wtf
Or if you can’t get these get the 45g lekker pack
Springs should be same length as stock owlab
might be better to get the HE compatible geon ones if you’re using HE switches
yeah
Crunchy springs when
they in stock I think I will go for them
You might even like them more imo
They’re an in between 40 and 50g ones
I’d get the 50s and pick up a 45g pack as backup
yeah makes sense, the only thing which I dont understand why there isnt a full spec sheet of the owlab ti he ?
thats the one I current use (omnipoint gen 1)
like initial force, I assume initial is the same like actuation
Quick question: Wich one of these are closest to ‘thocky’ sound profile? Gonna build the Wooting Optimum keyboard soon
None
/shrug, I guess it depends on which vendors you get em from
what do u think of my 1st ever kb
I mean the bottom out force is always there, but for people who use 0.1 and 0.2mm or around that the initial force should be more important no ?
Check this out
4/10 no crunch and i heard both dishes and a low smoke detector sound
wait hold on i have one switch in here with a twisted spring
Thanks a lot for replying, but is that… thocky at all? I find them quite ‘crispy’
Replace yo smoke detector battery
if this is not atleast a 6/10 ima have to pour some chips in here or some
Pretty much all HE switches are clacky
I can hear spring sounds
Oh, I did not know that. Thanks!
Hmmmmm, 5
teach me how to be better
Gotta put crumbs in the switches
bet ima need to find that kid that had doritos and shit in his wooting
and inv him over to my house with a side of lays
Side quest unlocked
yes it is to kidnap a random kid to my house to use my kb while eating chips for an hr
You bought PCB mounted stabs for your 60HE (non +, which doesn’t support PCB mounted stabs)? 🥀
Oh nah, you have the 60HE+
Oh you got plate mounted stabs
You install those in the plate, not on the PCB
What do yall think abt my first HE keeb? The spacebar feels kinda harsh
also forgot to ask arent lighter switches louder because you always bottom them out (especially 3,4mm ones) I mean I like the sound tho
Heavier springs will be louder
No generally the spring weight doesn't rly affect whether you bottom out or not. It's more of the way you type, your habits. A heavier spring isnt going to prevent you from bottoming out
You're just going to spend more effort bottoming out if you are the kind of person to bottom out on every keystroke
yeah makes sense, put in theory if I apply similar force to a light and heavy switch, I "slam" the stem to the bottom easier on the lighter one because there is less resistance or am I special ?
Unless the springs are diabolically heavy i dont think the difference would be too huge
yeah thats just theory I obv dont care if one is like 3db louder or not
Prob softer bottom out sound and louder top out with heavier springs ig
If it's just in theory
I dont think I bottom out both of them actually, my behaviour is ajusted to like 0.1-3mm without fully pressing the key
yeah makes sense
nice with alot of resonance, which is expected since its leggera
thanks for help guys, I will order them tomorrow. Also I did my research, almost every big brand HE Board uses lighter switches, right? Look at the Endgame Gear KB65HE 8K, tought big brands go for a safer pick and use more balanced ones.
well most ppl would think lighter=faster
i think thats why they do it
oh yeah this could be a valid reason, I think every big brand he board is under 50g bottom out force
No, most big brands use 50g switches
that why I tought going for the lighest possible was a no brainer for me then I decided to buy switches but seems like people here prefer 50g much more
I think apex pro, g pro rapid and huntsman all use around 40-45g
yeah when i got my 50g owlab ti he i couldnt type for the 1st day
i swapped then to 62.5g ones rn
there too light for you ?
yeah i prefer like 60-70g
problem is I cant find the actuation force of the owlabs (only bottom out force 40,50) and not the bottom out force of omnipoint switch, only the actuation force so I can compare them with a datasheet
28 and 35 most likely
so both are lighter then this ?
You are overthinking it imo, just get 50g owlabs and if they are too heavy for some reason, order 42.5g geon pingless springs and swap
gf is the same like g right
Yes
yeah just get 50g, u shouldnt have any issues unless ur like frail and thin
apex pro switches are like default lekkers
40 initial, 60 bottom out
most keyboard brands use 50g switches like jade pros, EGG uses 28g initial switches for some reason
their kb isnt that good anyway
there 10 springs in one pack ?
No, I think 100 or something
Definitely not 10
its like 110 with variance
Like 5 ppl told me to get 50 so I get 50, ty alot ,I just really dont want to open up switches and stuff I more like a plug and play type of guy
kinda ironic because I type in this channel
50g is perfect imo, I dont like 40g springs
rebound is so slow
also it sucks for typing
the more you get into modding, the more your mindset will change. You should be fine with 50g plug and play
lighter = faster 🤓 ☝️ is irrelevant with HE
okay I think im set on 50g, I also found the springs for like 15 dollars (tax and shipping included) so its okay if I dont like 50g for whatever reason in the long run, last question would be I can open them while the bottom housing is in the 80he module right?
^
your 80He will come with a puller, but its pretty ass
if your only frame of reference is 50g springs, i think you should be all set
that way you dont need to get a puller or opener unless you really want to
You can order 10pc 40g and 80pc 50g
yeah I would prefer not to do that
you know what to do 
#team40g
thats what I tought too but I think I want a universal feeling board also some games have more keys to bind and some less
I heard 40gs and 0.1mm is the play but I settle for 50g I think
Well not sure for playing, I don’t play fps that take the most advantage from that. I just type and play some rts/moba
When in doubt with lighter spring, can always try heavier one with heavier keycaps /j
I just like 40g because I type quite fast and just lightly touch the keys most of the time.
I actually have .3mm for gaming cuz otherwise I press it while resting my hand xD
Not always but sometimes and that was enough to cast the wrong thing
I did this for a certain time too
100g springs with metal keycaps would be fire ngl
I like cuz I don’t get tired even if I type a lot, I used to have 60g before and it was super tiring.
And a lot of times I just mistype cuz key was not registered
yeah thats why I was so uncertain about which switches to get because I play alot and it would be really unfortunate if my fingers would start hurting or get tired fast
Oh I honestly never had my fingers get tired from playing, the hand is way more static
Usually my mouse hand gets tired first 🤣 I tend to put all actions on the keyboard and leave just movement/aim on the mouse
hmm makes sense I just like to spam inspect or some shit like that
I mean you could buy both, try them and then return the ones you don’t like (?) not sure how returns work where you live
dont think so they are like 50 euro and straight from china, so I guess this would be alteast 30 to retunr
but Im set on 50 I think I just adapt
You’re in the EU? I think deltakeyco accepts returns, I paid like 50 eur with delivery there
For 90
yeah EU but arent there addional costs for returns ?
or u pay me $12321313 and il swap springs for u
The shipping, but shipping from my small eu country to France is like 5 euro. If you live in a bigger one it might even be cheaper.
I think im not that special and very capable of doing that
ty for the offer
its to save u time and im desperate for $$$
yeah im ger so maybe I will do that, its getting pretty late I just order them tomrrow
maybe I just flip a coin
12Ms for 30mins seems like a good deal
anyways, gn everyone thank you for yalls input
the monsgeek TMR keyboard is interesting, in a good way
Are there an estimated time for when the volume knobs are coming?
Q1 2026
Yeah, seems interesting, just hope they update it long term
TMR deffo has significant advantages over Hall effect too
its more power efficient, more accurate, and less susceptible to EMI
Ahh forgot one thing, what is the meaning of that ? Another unit for force ?
that unit is gauss I believe
which is a unit of measure of density of the magnetic flux
it's only going to be as good as software/firmware that's developed for it
so one gauss is one Maxwell/1cm^2
yeah obv
hmm english is not my first language and Im also not a physicist, is there any reason why they add that information?
im not an expert but i think its pretty much the quality of the magnet
no
its more pertaining to the strength of the magnet
less so its quality
the quality here would be related to how consistent the magnetic flux densities are between switches
so its pretty much useless info when you buy known switches
its not useless
since some keyboards have a range in which it is able to accurately measure the position of the magnet
or should I say
all magnetic keyboards have a range in which it can reliably measure the magnet
yeah let me reword it is useful if you have or need very specific things, if you go with a 60/80he module and known switches (geon, owlab, jade) this info is not important
and some require stronger magnets while some others require a weaker magnet
iirc there is an upper and lower limit but I dont remember off the top of my head
maybe a wooting engineer can tell you or someone here that knows
As long its not important information for my use case I think I shouldnt bother someone
just interesting because initial force is not mentioned but this
as long as its a switch that is known to work reliably with the keyboard its fine
yep
@fluid ravine thoughts on vid
Now there’s a layout
looks better than wootings split imo
what are those btw ? never saw someone mentioning them, they are 42g bottom out and look very smiliar to owlab ti he
Make that right shift full and it'll my fav
they are basically the same as owlab ti he/herz but with a slightly diff bottom housing
i would just get the cheapest of em
they cost exactly the same
are they really 42g or is it just a listing error and they like 40g owlab ti he
yeah I mean just 2 grams but other than that they are the same
that and the duhuk has a slightly diff bottom housing
but not major
like a "better" or more sturdy or just different
actually, kinda hoping venom make board like this someday. IDC if it's 80% or 60%, if it has that spacebar layout or 6.25u equivalent with the full right shift it'll be perfect enough for me.
its just diff material
they both have nylon bottom housing but the duhuk one has nylon with fiberglass infused
which results in a slightly sharper/brighter sound when you bottom out
oh okay I think I order them too and then I decide, sadly deltakey doesnt have enought owlab 50g in stock
nah i would just flip a coin and do best of 7 wins
there so many possibilities
or I could just switch to controller
maybe I order a console instead of a keyboard everything is inside the return window
why?
nah I mean that as a joke because you literally just have a controller
there like 2 or 3 models that make sense for a ps5 compared to 1billion switches, mousepads and mice
yeah but pc cooler
yeah obv but im currently on a gtx 970 and a 1800x
so I spend my time with research on keyboard switches because some games are unplayable and the rest runs not that good
thats like the cheapest option but the others are better right
no all 3 on that web are identical
they are 3,68 instead of 5,04
dont ask me why switch manus make basically the same switches
then u can get those
only thing they missing is the infused bottom thats basically it
Order a new MX board today to convert to HE. Should have it next week and will report on how it goes
The simplicity of console is both its biggest strength and its biggest weakness. Similarly can be said about pc, its unlimited options can be both a blessing and a curse.
yeah I think I check out the lumia on point other then that there are the ttc poms (and those are expensive af)and geon but both are inferior to the owlab right ?
I want to oring mount my wuting
gl finding a case with enough usb port clearance
yeah my problem with console is that playing games with aim assist is not real skill (aimwise) because basically the devs decide what intensity is balanced enough, on kbm they can nerf the guns but never a good player
they have better stem wobble but u will need to lube them if u dont like dry feeling/sounding switches
i would say this has gotten a lot better nowadays with higher quality modding guides having sections for "essentials" "eye candy extras" etc
so decision paralysis is a lot weaker now
god bless steam forums and guides for the respective games
and geon raw are just not the pick anymore right
Yeah, but when you build a pc you kinda have to know a whole hell of a lot more than just using a console that is basically plug and play.
its not even that hard
which board 
Ori 60 Black badge
I slightly disagree with that statement but kinda.
oh nice choice, looks like a goodie
also i really hate to say this but prebuilts have gotten more reasonable nowadays too
Oh for sure
yeah some people still dont wanna do it even with that "low" effort and till I was 18-20 I always needed to explain and convince the parents of my friends why it makes sense to buy parts instead of a pc and a shop, sadly it didnt work always.
yeah raws are outdated now
i think the only actually tough part of PC assembly is the component selection itself
i would just pick the pink ones u saw
weighing your needs etc
but i think its ultimately very helpful anyways
helps teach you a lot about hw-sw interactions
That is the harder part yeah
Also just, compatibility
compatibility is only an issue if ur like trying to pimp a dell or something
Get it in WK if available and convert it
Will these memory timings work with my cpu of choice? What clock speed of the memory should I use?
It's stuff like that that really gets people
ram defaults to jedec
which just runs
you dont always have to run xmp/expo anyways
It's the fine details that play a huge role in how your build performs
both are actually not that good
ultimately they are just oc presets irrespective of how the individual die on that package performs
yeah I build my own pcs and my friends for a while now, so far every pc worked flawless, the only thing that happend 2 months ago that I ripped the small triangle from my 12HPWR because I wanted to check if my cable had uneven pins
I glued it back but I was in shock
should be compatible with WK/WKL and HHKB with venom
most people i see using xmp/expo have encountered many more instability than actual benefits
either run jedec or manually tune your sticks to your setup 😎
Oh it's just blockers?
i believe so
Hmm yeah I just wonder why they are a good amount cheaper, because by budget is around 70 Euro so I obv pick the best for my price range
im pretty sure u can swap the top part so u can change layouts whenever
kinda like the keycult 0
Oh nice, I love those options
only thing with ram is, that blue leds are pretty fragile for some reason, like on my kingston kit they started to dimm after 2 weaks and on my kit now (adata) they broken after 14months
it will prob be one of the best cases for he
i just turn off rgb 😎
besides the ones where u need a custom plate for like derivative
i dont need to look at my case when im staring at my monitor and using the computer
yeah I think my next build will be plain white with like silent wing 4 pro
but anyways today is sunday that means for me there is nothing to do because everything is closed
no heatspreaders either which is actually a benefit (previous owner was so based for removing them)
most ram spreaders are quite garbage
do you know alot about ram?
i used to be very invested in ddr4 era yeah
but ddr5 is just good now
so no more incentives
Yup just using blockers so that's perfect
can I dm you quick I have a question or two because I think thats the wrong channel for that
When does pre-order open up?
or that
says by end of 2025
and it has vendors like everywhere
Oh it's just an in-stock buy? Even better
Yeah doesn't show a pre-order or group buy window so looks like it's a straight in-stock buy.
they are missing operating force that what I needed to compare them
ah. none of the sellers have that info
yeah kinda weird but someone told me already its about 28 for 40g and 35 for 50g
hey whats the most silent switch for wooting 60he? i am using geon raw switches rn
Haimu Silents and Raeds..
Here’s the Haimu Silents: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EHrKNYW
@harsh dove sorry for ping I can't find ur profile any other way 😭
Sorry for the ping
hi everyone i was wondering, does anyone have a link or spreadsheet with all the compatible switches for Wooting60HE/80HE?
This is just pink version of UR Ice Ultra
I have these, they nicer
And the Ice Ultra is ? Same/worse then the Owlab
Are they closed bottom too
Yes
They look like they from the same factory
They are equally good, Ice Ultras have a bit deeper sound than Owlab Ti's
They are both made by hejin
- The duhuk Lumia Herz and Point too right ?
lumia herz is a recolor of owlab ti
And is only available in 42G
You like the sound more or why ?
which he switches have upstroke dampeners again?
Duhuk core
that and genty right
somehow i remember there also being another
ah yeah it was dd pink switches with dampeners on both ends
Genty isnt dampened at all
but those are unusable anyways
Fake silent switch
So all the UR Studio are the Same Except somehow in the description of the pink one it says 47G instead of 50G
Probably just lighter spring or the description is wrong
Everglide UE look the same too didn’t know that there are that many switches
For He
But between Herz, OwLab and UR Ice I should get the cheapest because they are basically the same quality wise
Yes but UR Ice Ultras have a bit different sound, they are deeper
Sound doesn’t really matter to me
There is also Phylina Lightning, its basically UR Ice Ultra with a box stem, very stable switch with almost no stem wobble, you might aswell check those too
I see black/pink color options right
What do you use rn
I use wuque flux and I dont recommend them
Honestly, just get them
They sound good and have almost no wobble
Do I need to lube them
Factory lube should be as good as owlab and other switches
The only thing I want to know is what exactly is magnetic flux because the Duhuk Herz for some reason have a unusual amount of bottom out 900, every other switch is around 650-750. I mean there is a reason for that and I want to know why
Both will work fine but 900gs version is recommended for wooting
Bottom out flux doesnt matter if its within the range, both versions are within the range
Ah okay so 900g is most optimal but that irrelevant. Why are the Owlab so popular compared to the others like I saw no one talking about the phylina lighting or the herz (even tho for me they are cheaper)
Haimu Silents, Yiqian/Outemu’s Silents (including Gamakay Silent Phoenixes), then TTC and Leobog (neither works well) and Genty’s don’t work at all as the rails don’t interact with the silicone dampener, they hit the hard pastic before the dampeners are reached. 😃👍
Both are actually cheaper I think it’s 46 dollars for 91 Lightings and around 42 for Herz
No reason, they are all equally good
what the fuck was gat even thinking ROFL
Same generation
also i didnt know yiqian had silents
They weren’t.
Yeah, Gamakay and Glorious’ shit..
I want to try phylinas, they seem to be pretty good
They invented dual rails so can’t say I was surprised honestly
Quad rails soon 💪
multi rails are so epic i love it when my switch binds mid travel
No USA vendor yet?
No
man i need ttc to cook and bring their frozen silent engineering into a HE switch
that would be endgame for me outside of raeds
frozen silents are the unappreciated peak of ttc fr
If that happens, the whole silent game for magnetic switches would be dead which isn’t profitable so it won’t happen. Unless 👀
Yeah makes sense , so in summary. lighting best stem wobble/stability, Duhuk Lumia Herz a recolor/irrelevant but more optimal magnet, UR ICE Ultra slightly deeper sound and Duhuk Lumia On point lighter sound because of the PA+30% Fiberglass Housing
tbh i think it would be endgame overall
frozen silent dampeners are so firm that they are more than usable for gaming
for me as well
- they still absorb a lot of force compared to bare mx(he)
Yeah, all of them are good options but I would definitely go with phylinas
Will you check them out in the near future ?
Probably when they will be available in the US
Im also waiting for tikkens
Oh okay then I think I’m set for the lightings or one of the Duhuks
Material makes no difference because they are PC while the OWLAB are (atleast the bottom is) PA
Like the durability
If you get the lightning then grab the lightning pro version
Has a longer spring which might be nice
pink is new version
Adam (アダム[) (Hebrew: בראשית ,אדם i:xxvi) is the designation of the 1st Angel, the first of Earth's two Seeds of Life . Adam is also the genetic basis of the Evangelions, although this is not the case for Unit-01, as it was built from Lilith.Adam was created by the First Ancestral Race billions of years ago and sent to
is this 60% Adam X compatible with the 60HE?
Not without a custom plate.
They the same price they are 50g bottom right
Not sure
thanks! where can i get a custom plate?
You’d have to design one that fits that case specifically, then get it made by some CNC/Laser cutting service.
Seems like it I really need to understand some key things. Because if the lighting are 35G Operating Force at 50G Bottom Out. How the Duhuk Herz are also 35G Operating Force but 42G Bottom Out. Its like the spring ?
Different spring
i see, okay!
thanks! they ship to US?
Why is 900 optimal for wooting but then the rest is okay at 700?
Yeah because in theory if one of these values is missing, two 50G Bottom Out Switches could feel different especially with light key presses, makes sense or no
Or I am special
I’m not sure 700 is fine. For the boards with the updated hardware it is but I doubt it’s fine for the older boards.
Most likely
I was buying the herz switches for a buddy and they had 2 options, they said 900 wooting then 700 for the other boards…
is that notion page with all the compatible cases still up?
First time I had encountered that when buying switches
Yeah, though it could be they say that cause most compatible switches have been around that (a little over even).
its not up to date afaik
ah, i see
I have no clue which boards require 700 and don’t work with 900, that’s the real mystery 😂
Yeah Im stumped, sales guy just asked what board then said 900 for wooting
Maybe Keychron’s?
wouldnt woot still work with 700 too
Yeah, well at least the newer boards.
Pretty much always 50g bottom out switches have 35g initial force, if one has long spring then they will feel slightly different initially
also this reminds me of yiqian pinks advertising as 2800g
There was some time where Raw HEs had issues but that got fixed, then it came back and got fixed again (not sure how it is now on the older boards).
Fake news, same with Kailh’s Astrals.
ye i knew it had to be fake coming from a company that literally clones mx switches anyways
