#🔧│keyboard_modding
1 messages · Page 422 of 1
i think any GH60 factor case
@stray tiger unrelated but if you have time, could you check if the compensation stage is still a thing on the 60HE? It’s gone on the 80HE. Switches with weaker magnets are still not optimally supported but it’s better than it was before.
Mistrals and Flames were at 3.25 before, now 3.75.
pics show Mistrals and Flames respectively.
Im waiting on a new PCB but I think Im going to build my Optimum today by staling the PCB out of my Salvation build
Ive got a newer 60HE PCB coming (60HE+) which I believe has the updated scanning change. I'll test when it arrives
Ah, the older PCBs aren’t compatible with that firmware version?
Or it’s a hardware thing?
so thats 3 films per switch + Pad or 2 films + pad?
3 parts per switch - 360 parts in one bag
k , but it doesnt replace the pad right?
switch film, pcb pad and plate gasket
cause I use a friction pad
which pad?
nah that’s like a massive silicone layer, those things are just for the switches and 0.1mm thick
per switch :)
are the switches supposed to be hard to pull out
if you not using a switch puller yeh
you can take everything out and push it from under
keebtape goes on the bottom of the pcb
you need concentrated force
Hardware tweak during the refresh a while back I believe. Dont quote me on it but I thik that's the case
they lock in place, you need to depress the hooks
top and bottom
and the tape makes difference? seems like just a thin plastic wrap layer
i am
the it usually just comes out
Oh I got it
it’s 1mm thick gel, dampens a bunch
I wasnt pressing in hard enough theres ribs on the side
ah k makes sense
and the wooting HE peformance isnt effected ?
@tawdry tree coincidentally from todays stream https://www.youtube.com/live/Hxz2-1BtuCM?si=v8jllZOeh5Gz__gL&t=4083
✨ Follow our socials! ✨Discord https://discord.gg/wootingTwitter https://www.twitter.com/wootingkbInstagram https://www.instagram.com/wootingkbCustomer Suppo...
no reports that it affects it
if so getting rn, really like the Optimum sound, but want it abit quieter
same with the films
nice, thanks for the help bruv
more questions ahahah, is it worth lubing the lekker v2 45?
the switches ahve more pinger sound actually then the stabs keys which are thockier
so I think stabs arent even worth lubing
Thanks for sharing.
Interesting. I missed the stream but I’ll rewatch it later.
But wait. Module got a refresh?
A silent update seems like.
Dang bro I’m so obsolete
Where’s the 60HE+Max 😭😭
I’ll just wait for 8k version
I wonder if this applies to the pcb in assembled 60he+ too
Since they use same pcb but with different plate and stabs
Guess I’ll check on the unit I have coming Monday
I just bought a Optimum full kit with a 60HE+ and now they updating the board
bruv momentus dudes
It’s been updated for awhile
I believe it was part of the 60HE+ update months ago. Not a new/recent change.
At least that’s what Calder said
yeah
Yeah see what thockfather said
ah then all good
So is 60he+ already running 0.1rt?
@polar girder sold some skins on CS and bought a new T side knife
I do want 8k version
waht does 0.1rt means
No, the firmware change hasnt been released yet
Ah okay
Calder said 0.1rt is coming
and what does it do?
And that they had a stable build of it
It’s 0.15 rapid trigger min right now
rn its 0.15 rapid trigger
So it’s 0.1 will be new minimum
it will be 0.1, and potentially less than that in future
I am curious to see if they can enable sub 0.1 when they add switch selector and have ttc magneto switches in it
If you guys recal (or if you were around) it wasnt always .15 but there were concerns with max LED brightness and trying to run below .15 so they made some changes.
yea it was 0.1 right? and they changed it to 0.15
They also locked max LED brightness with tachyon
ah very dope nice nice, not an insane diff. but its a performance gain anyways
I’d like to see 0.05 but only enabled if you have more stable switches installed maybe
so they changed it to 0.15, which is more accurate
do you think 0.05 will be usable with jade pros?
Pro are rated to 0.02, at least that’s what they claim
ah, so should be fine, although i dont plan to use 0.05 lol
if they ever add it via firmware update
And jade gaming, ttc magneto are rated to 0.01 according to their marketing
I think once you get below .1 you start to get accuracy issues either way. .05 is such a small variance that any fluctuation, jitter, wobble, etc etc could cause issues
Yeah I know the Chinese boards that allow it won’t even allow you to set those settings unless you have magnetos installed for example
They lock you at 0.1 or whatever if you don’t
Yeah I saw that and even then I saw some people report bad actuations
Will the 0.1 RT be available on the 60HE+?
Yes
That’s the plan yeah
They haven’t pushed it out yet though
So it's just a firmware update right?
wait, what about old 60he lol
yep
Its days like this when I remember how much I miss hanging out in here. Work has been crazy but Ive got the day off today for the holiday
Yeah Im going to yank the PCB out of my Salvation build and put it in the Optimum. Was going to stream on twitch but will do it in discord
it already is?
its 0.15 for now

i go 0.1 actuation wasd and 0.15 rapid trigger
same
Ok
8288754dd448784e92e35fd804824f6a06c7 , try this, if you play valorant/cs2
it's perfect (at least for my preference
Thx
finding a good pair of pudding keycaps is like finding a needle in a haystack when you're not even sure if there's a needle in the first place
i honestly wanted a set so bad when i was first buying keycaps -- as i looked at more and more photos I started to notice a little shadow of the switch stem shine through the pudding on some of the sides of the keycaps. That plus it being like impossible to find a decent set (personally wanted pbt cherry profile & pudding) just eventually turned me away
There is no needle with pudding keycaps
😂 exactly my point haha, just a big haystack
Its the same with trying to find quality shine through keycaps and then trying to find them in cherry profile
oh dear i forgot about that struggle too 😭
biting the damn bullet of not finding a set and just buying something opaque really hurt my soul but the cherry pbt was worth it
When will you do it?
Mines arriving later today
I already did. Took like 2min.
The PCB in the Salavation had Neo Lavendars in it so you already know whats those sound like.
12:54pm 😌
Ah indeed
X-ray is my needle in the haystack
They are so good looking
So glad I didn't go for WoB
And waited for x-ray
Yeah I like that set. About to move it to another board later today
My set arrives hopefully late Dec
@fluid ravine Im going to toss the Optimum keycaps on it if you want to hear it. Lmk and Ill stream in discord

Chrima present
Santa shall drop it off for you
@fluid ravine drop down to voice channel
yeh
how so? can I just solder it back or schould i buy new one?
I am pretty sure they are soldered, the other leds are soldered and I saw tutorials on how to repair one or switch the leds, I just want to ask if they will connect properly and work bcs the fallen leds pins broke from them
as you can see the leds are supposed to have the pins with we are supposed to solder on them, mine doesn't have them 😦
No, the leds have been broken when I swapped the switches, idk how they broke and fell, I just did it with care so I don't break something
Here a proper image, with as you can see that it broke off
@stray tiger gmk vior? Is it a type of shade of red or nah
Cant remember on the top of my head but I'm recalling from Dave's board
The color match on the Optimum case/caps is for real. Looks great together.
Oh shoot looks better than I thought
Heavily depends on how light hits it though
I've seen some where I genuinely thought people repainted the case 
But that's just a plastic vs metal problem, can't really stop that entirely
For sure. But with normal light in a top down view, its really good. Way better than I was expecting
Yeah it's in the off angles with sunlight where you notice it
If you have a darker room it'll probably look no different at all
And what sweaty gamer chad games in a bright room? Not me!
Whats this app?
I've seen lots of people use it. How exactly does it work? Do you buy items within the app or is it more like a tracking order hub
the latter
it’s shopify’s app
it just shows you all of your tracking numbers and their current status
it’s pretty useful
but sometimes it’s just completely wrong
Sry for these braindead questions, but i dont think this is a popular app in scandinavia? It seems nice to have. So if i buy something from maxgaming, not through the app. Would my order would get added to the apps tracking list?
If you put your email into the app yeah
But in my experience it's almost always extremely delayed or outright wrong
How's it sound?
Which variant of TX AP Long Pole Stabs should I get for 60HE? There's the plate mount version https://divinikey.com/products/tx-ap-long-pole-plate-mount-stabilizers?variant=40481121534017 and there's also this but it also looks like it's plate mount too https://divinikey.com/products/tx-ap-long-pole-stabilizers?variant=40406801317953
Also it only includes 6.25u for space bar and 2u. Where do I find the set that fits 2.25 and 2.75 for Enter and RShift?
You dont need long pole stabs for the 60HE 99% of the time.
yeah those are fine too, but also usually not needed to swap the stems
What keycaps are you using? Stock?
Doesn't happen with any amount of force on my stock wooting caps
Most quality keycaps wont have any see-sawing, even when gaming.
You can also just use normal stabilizers and put some spacers on them. They are cheap or you can 3d print your own
I should get a 3d printer
jades pro vs jades max?
KKB telling everyone to embrace the shine!
Jade pros without a doubt
Maxes are a no go because of the friction issue
anyone running a zinc alloy 80he with ceramic keycaps? i'd love to hear some sound tests with some
why does my spacebar sound so rattly
its lubed too
could it be the stabs
60HE ^
do drunkdeer switches work on wooting? i want to use their silent he switch
i've definitely seen people complain about the stabs in general.
i figured it would be the stabs but i could try lubing the space bar again since these were lubed like almost a year ago already
how silent they are? compared to the gamakay magnetic silent switches?
or compared to lekkers v2?
also, how do they feel?
no
How can i tell if they are compatible or not? 🤦😂
those are raesha switches right
What is raesha?
@paper bloom @harsh dove Thank you!!

Is cool
well, drunkdeer switches arent compatible im sure also they are not that silent.
just get jade pros or geon raws
what happened
Sickk
Optimum case 
Oki 😂 ty
I didnt ask u, do u also have lekkers v2?
Yes, but I swapped them
Uh how do I replace the feet @paper bloom
Pop the feet from the inside of the case
Fyi for anyone that is wondering
Yes you can friction mount the optimum case with a gummy oring BUT it fits very loosely though
lekkers are fine, i just prefer closed bottom switches
Like push it out?
Oh oki
wait u bought the optimum??
i didnt know LOL
Counter did
ohh W
@fluid ravine nice
its bootiful
It indeed is

Bro got the grade
This jsut unlocked a memory
Lolz
HAHA
LOL
Friction fit pad too?
Comes with it yup
Time for turkeyson to get to chopping
First batch comes with it separately
Second batch and so on will be in the same box with the case
IT'S TIME TO SNIP AND CHOMP BABY
Holy shit
Wait lowkey this makes my board sound so much better 
IT'S BRIGHTERRR
keyboard case matters!
shi no joke you werent joking holy crap
LOOL
When i pick my shit usually
Id alrdy know what is an upgrade sometimes
Well this is one of them so enjoy
Glad i got u the case
can the yellow lekkers v2 be used with the 60he?
yes
Yes
ty
@sacred elm 🤝
ermm sound test 
What do you want first
I lost my screwdriver
He wants everything
I need to put in friction pad
oh ur doing it with friction pad? Ithought u were just gonna keep gummy
👍
Nah it fits pretty loose actually
Glorious or HyperX
The raw he version of mounting, tight asf
Yea
Cuz if the bounce
Ok I'll send a sound test
Of*
for the optimum case, for the friction fit pad is it necessary to use the o rings on the standoffs?
oh yeah it's pointless lmao
Yea its a lot poppier isnt an issue
I use them so there's no metal contact on the pcb
hmm good point
GT80 second prototype, a case that fits the Wooting 80HE
Pre-orders live now!
Prices start from $119 to $125
For more info:
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Accessories Link:
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#keyboard #keyboards #mechanicalkeyboard #keycaps #gamer #diy #kbdfans #gamers #gamingkeyboard #g...
ooo middle usb
Can't wait to get mine! Wonder when it'll ship
It was new to me, wasn't sure there will be aftermaket cases at all
My Jade pros are here 
Damn that's a bit of a wait for batch 2
Yeah I mean it did go on preorder since the 22nd plenty of time to have jumped on it
Thanks for the update! So sometime in January for me
letsgo
I ordered Geons as well but I’m not getting those until I get my GT80 since I ordered them together 
do u like them
my raws went back to square one 
Haven’t tried them yet :c won’t be able to until 3 nights from now since I work
Is it an unpopular opinion to not like the sound of Aluminium cases?
I had a Q1 HE before and now ordered a ABS 80HE
Dont get the weight thing, make sense for a phone or something you have in your hand.
It was just a little bit more anoying to adjust the keyboard on the table
spacebar 🤢
yup
plate mounts man
that thing is pretty bouncy
eh not really
left shift got some ticking
that's random
my left shift on 80he stinks
spacebar foam for full copium
stabs need some work
or a upgrade
nah im not a big fan of spacebar foam
plus it aint even hollow or anything like that
it just sounds weak cus the stabs aren't even bottoming out
using raws with normal tx ap
nah its not pointless you want it to not have pcb in contact with metal
I just placed them cause why not
nooo not this again 😭

Hell yeah bro, W
You want my clear knight stabs?
They not long pole tho
i have normal 60he

Xray keycaps
man i cant do anything about it :(
i decided to keep in the silicone for the alphas
made my stabs sound better

NOO IS THIS GG? 

Seesaw effect
For reduce travel switch with normal stabs
i've seen worst
this is not that bad
can't rn
parents
¯_(ツ)_/¯
im still a young kid yknow
youngling

and they're sold out in divinikeys for me
try clingwrap mod
the what now
oh right
jam plastic wrap in
that mod
to cut some of that gap
Time for geon stem spacers
divinikeys out of stock D:
This is why I have the stem spacers in spare just in case lol
although I’ve never actually had the wobble happen before
where can i find 80he cases
On wooting's official website
or if you want a 3rd party 80he case you can look at the GT-80 from KBDfans
interesting, can you ever get that out tho
might be difficult?
ah hmm
i have done this mod before without a reason
but i've never really know why
kinda
not at all
i should try it on my noisy gx1
maybe it does something
this only fixes problem stemming from loose keycap to switch stem tolerances
yeah i have never bothered with spacers, just jam plastic wrap in there and it'll be fine
ahhhh my brain
they are silent, if you click the link they released new silent ones.
they are called silent but they are not
lol
maybe get jade silent genty, but they arent that silent either
They really need to rebrand those switches as Quiet Jades
Jade silent genty is a terrible name
And false advertising 🤣
You didn't read what I said - I just explained how distance is calculated for the 3.5mm switches. It's still 40 steps but not the same step distance
They are
The drunkdeer/raesha silent switches are actually silent
Well, 'silent' more in line with typical mechanical silent
I can take one apart for you if u want
Ah nvm then, i thought it was one of those fake "silent" switches
That's only genty iirc
For now
It's rail silent with no stem bottom out
Silicone dampeners
Interesting
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCiMlVxNWKk This at 10:55?
Skip to 10:55 for a typing demonstration.
Get it here: https://bit.ly/3nVr74m
Discount code: Chyrosran22 (I think it's actually 20%, not 30%)
Today we look at an "indie" contactless board, the Hall effect-based Drunkdeer A75; a very interesting new player on the market.
Intro by Kyle Carter
Outro by Facundo Cabanne
My keyboard reviews: http...
no those are different
what do you guys think about the designerstudio adaptive PCB mount stabs on wooting boards
Is there any he switches that actually sound good yet or are we still stuck with raws???
jade pro / raws
Have both, both sound shit unfortunately
was hoping there was something new and actually good in my absence
Might not be the switches my man
Haven't heard any build in here that sounds as good as a regular modded mechanical keyboard lol
Ive heard a few. There have been a lot of good builds recently. Hell I built one a few days ago that's as good or better than some of my custom MX builds
specs on your $700 build wooting
i forgor
yeah that one. Iron160 HE
what plate?
ah everything is clicking now
it's clacking now (fixed it for you)
zanku
That’s what I was talking about and said though. Possible resolution is higher on a 3.3mm switch than it is on a 4.0mm switch for Wooting’s boards. On shorter switches, the distance between steps is less so overall “step density”(😄) is higher. I know the closer the magnet is to the sensor, the more accurate it is. The live travel in Wootility V5 shows that quite well.
that is not how this works
sensor resolution != step density
Also did not say that. On shorter switches, is the step density higher?
On Wooting’s boards.*
sure, yea
That’s what I said.
more steps per mm
and my point was.
Possible resolution is higher on a 3.3mm switch than it is on a 4.0mm switch for Wooting’s boards.
Sensor resolution is not what I meant with possible resolution.
you're making less and less sense
Other wise I wouldn’t have said for Wooting’s boards.
what is the distinction between them
sensor res and possible res
You thought I was talking about sensor resolution.
okay, then resolution of what
Possible res is all the points at which you can set the actuation point.
yea no
alright.
your "possible res"
is just travel dist/40
and it only changes depending on the total travel of the switch
It was relevant because if Wooting doesn’t have a dynamic deadzone, the deadzone could be smaller on shorter switches.
wouldn’t have said for Wooting’s boards if I was talking about sensors in general man. 😕
what would the correct term be?
step density?
I'll get to this later, but its wrong
likely step distance or step density
alright.
the deadzone is not in any way dependent on the switch distance
setting a 0.1mm upstroke
will be 0.1/4.0mm or approx 0.085/3.5mm
depending on switch travel
and current calculation
the deadzone also is only affected by stem (and therefore magnet) wobble
wobble causes flux variance and the 'dynamic deadzone' just adjusts to compensate for that flux variance/stem wobble
nothing more to it
If you limited the travel of a switch with a washer for example, do you think the bottom out deadzone would adjust accordingly to the now earlier bottom out?
yes
alright, I’ll try that later today.
try it for what reason
Previously this wasn’t the case (on the 60HE pre-Wootility V5). Simon implemented a fix for people that used O-Rings (as a byproduct limiting their travel and becoming unstable and bottom out iirc). On the 80HE with the latest firmware, that fix has been change or removed so perhaps now it works like that.
That’s what I’ll try and see what the result is.
🤓 the reason o-rings were unsable is because orings are not hard
they'll shorten the overall travel and soften the bottom out by cushioning the impact
and so the lack of replicable distance is why it would break some things
just making the autocal more aggressive would fix it
Unstable to that point? A dynamic deadzone would account for wobble but couldn’t for O-Ring jitter?
Jitter/squishyness, whatever you want to call it.
orings don't jitter
they squish
magnetic flux variance is always going to be different
there is nothing like it in nature
I can understand noise is filtered out but actual wobble would seems to me, extremely difficult to adjust for.
wobble gets catgerised as noise
whether or not you understand it is moot point
to test if wobble has any effect on deadzone, you’d need the same setup as in the original video and increase/decrease the wobble of a specific switch and see the before and after results right?
what
better now?
sure
but its going to prove me right
and you can spend your money trying to prove it
idk why you think I'm wrong
I won’t if it’s an arm and a leg.
look, you lack the necessary understanding of the technology to be making assumptions, and I've provided answers in a theory that for some reason you seem intent on finding issues with and/or proving me wrong. idek what your theory is but if you don't have one then you have no reason to be so critical of mine
because of all the switches I tested (using Wooting’s analog monitor), there wasn’t any difference between KS-20s and stem swapped Raptors which have drastically less wobble. Switches with weaker magnets that reached the compensation stage (I don’t know what else to call it) had quite a big deadzone regardless of wobble.
yes but wooting's "analog monitor" doesn't show flux values, or numbers past 0.X
I have access to the raw flux values, and 0.0x precision
and I've also provided a theory that explains everything
It shows changes in distance and a deadzone of 0.3mm would show.
also top wobble is very different from bottom wobble fyi
from that video, switches with box stems or less wobble do not all score higher.
That’s the odd differences sno was talking about
dont even start with box stems
box stems dont mean less wobble
yes, there are plenty of different factors
typically if you press straight down and/or are relatively centered any decent switch
including lekkers
shouldn't induce any particularly large fluctuation
it’s sno’s argument and it’s accurate, the switches in the video with box stems have significantly less wobble at bottom out. I agree with him on that hence the discussion about the cause.
also that being said the Hemu display is after the algo application
alright
D's explaining that box stem doesn't equal good box stem
no but it doesn’t “explain everything” as he put it.
not every box stem equals good tolerances
look I know you hate admitting that something isn't sure, but it's a bit absurd the lengths you're going over this just to try disprove this theory
you don't have to say it's right, but I don't see where this constant line of trying to build hubble space telescopes is going in some weird pursuit to avoid just saying "that's an interesting theory, maybe it's right in parts?"
I’m saying the same thing you said to me. It doesn’t explain everything. I don’t say I don’t know nor does he.
this isn't some score card where you need to assert you're more correct than he is or vice versa
so far I've answered every question you've had and you're just trying to create odd scenarios in order to try and disprove my theory
adding a washer to reduce travel achieves what?
shorter travel?
cool, we know that autocal takes care of that
o-rings causing issues? tweak autocal aggressiveness and we good again
Not at all. I’m saying that dynamic deadzone falls within 0.1 and doesn’t account for wobble. That’s what I’ve seen.
I explain why I asked that.
but i don't think either of you have measured deadzone though have you?
so I don't know where this debate is coming from or why
not on a wooting
With the setup shown in the video, no.
I have measure it on my rakka
we don't have the information so I don't know what you're trying to disprove
you don't have any data that says D's theory is wrong because you haven't measured deadzone at all anyway
D knows for sure. I do too.
what
do you know for sure?
know what
yes, that's something I taught you
that's also something sno appears to agree with
what?
that’s what you’ve been saying from start to finish brother.
D is saying he has a theory that seems to make sense, not that he knows 100% that this is the cause but that this is what his guess is
no one 'knows for sure'
he says he knows for a fact.
?
sure, as far as I'm concerned its fact
sicne its a working theory and it has explained everything thus far
Exactly.
if either someone who has worked on it corrects me, data gets produced to disprove me, OR something else outright disproves me
it changes what I deem fact
Exactly!
i'm confused at what point aligner is making now
likewise if say sno produces a better theory that better explaisn everything i'm inclined to believe what he says is fact
is this just an ego thing?
doesnt Aligner just want to do the things you've mentioned in this case?
yea it might be
he's trying
or ight
might
i don't think he will tbh
It’s more similar than different. You’re telling me I don’t know and I can’t say that I don’t know. Nor does he. A personal fact perhaps.
just arguing for argument's sake
I never did
you missed my last point - if someone else proposes a better theory that's the one I will go with
are you now angry that I'm believing D's theory might be closer to the point than yours or something? I don't get it.
I don’t know how else I can explain my reasoning honestly.
what reasoning
What is your theory? so far you've spent all your time trying to disprove D's theory but haven't presented data for your own theory
Not at all, you’re free to believe who ever you like. Point is I’m making to you is, what you said previously “You just don’t say you don’t know” is exactly what D does here as well.
It doesn’t matter but be consistent in that if you will.
yeah because D has a working theory that fits the evidence so far
your theory had no evidence fitting it and you refused to give any evidence beyond "trust me"
you believe what you choose.
sure, but if I don't know, don't understand the subject well enough, or get disproven by available data then I'll say "I don't know" because I don't have a working theory that fits the data
i'm still waiting for you to give a working theory with any data backing it beyond "I know"
I have numerous times, you’re free to read back if it’s in your interest.
link ur theory to me too cuz I haven't seen it and have only seen you try to disprove me unsuccessfully
As do I which I’ve explained numerous times.
but you dont have a working theory that fits the data
your theory at best was auto cal wasn't working well and that gateron lied or is wrong with their specs, neither of which I found very convincing to explain the data
^
yeah but that doesn't explain the data we have
^
wheres that one chart showing deadzone and stability
saying there's constantly a slight variation in magnet strength and mold tolerances for EVERY example seems statistically unprobable
which is why it doesn't fit the data we have
especially when we have no data that says this
I wouldn’t consider that any different that D’s theory which would show all switches with the least amount of wobble as the top, which it doesn’t.
I hope you guys got what you wanted from this
but the switches with the least wobble are at the top?
Two different ways to go about it, but it’s whatever.
alright.
wiredin malding at discount codes not working 
no wonder he and many others like wooting doesnt do them
because this debate extended to a point where it feels like it's unnecessary.
and end of the day I don't know if D's theory is 100% right even, just that it fits the data more than aligners which relies on more statistically low things
i don't get this obsession about trying to go tit for tat about what parts could potentially be more wrong/more right when there's no actual data backing it
@glacial wind hopefully I get the jade pros before I leave for holiday, but if I do I'll do create a public sheet with avg'd test data for flux variance, mm variance at top and bottom with all the HE switches I have
that’s fine, you’re free to believe whichever theory seems more likely to you.
will have lekker v1, raptor he, raw he, jade, jade pro, lekker v2
and maybe raesha if I can get it working
then go to the lab do some testing. You have conflicting theories that can easily debunked by scientific results
exactly.
like I don't get this trying to pick apart the other persons guess just to prove they might be wrong and somehow that makes you more right
I told him the same - I'm open to getting disproven but come with something that backs you aside from just words
just go test your theory
Exactly, I mean at this point it's just arguing for the sake of arguing
As am I, we’re not that different.
no, we are
sure
If it's worth hours of argument, it should be worth experimenting.
its only gone on this long because he refuses to abandon his theory
That’s what you want?
I'd be happy to see any data for aligners theory if he has it
^
Arguing for the sake of arguing. Well..
honestly idc
but if you're gonna spend all this time trying to disprove my theory to make yours the most likely theory at least come with some data or something else to either disprove my theory or prove yours indisputably correct
take your pick
I shared the difference in magnet strength caused by magnet and mold tolerances, that didn’t seem worth much to you tho.
because its not worth much in general???? magnet strength has nothing to do with mold tolerances
but that wasn't to do with the theory
mold tolerances directly affect stability and not magnet strength
just sharing random data of 1 switch doesn't tell us anything or prove anything for the theory
magnet strength is magnet strength - for all intents effectively a constant
Magnet strength at bottom out. Have you even seen what I’m talking about?
especially not when these results are averaged from multiple switches
Alright!
yes magnet strength at bottom out is dictated by travel distance
👍
If that changes if the bottom of the switch is slightly thinner for example, of if the stem is slightly longer.
@calm pulsar Just built my jade knights with jade pros!
manufacturing tolerance sure
mold tolerance normally means tolerance between the parts
sounds amazing even with FR4 plate
but I'll make that distinction for the sake of thsi argument again
I agree.
Outemu Pink/White initial: 482, 478, 466
Outemu Pink/White end: 5080, 5066, 5033
Teamwolf Light Wind initial: 715, 711, 725, 722, 711
Teamwolf Light Wind end: 5596, 5584, 5582, 5660, 5594
Latenpow Strawberry V2 initial: 957, 945, 958, 968, 971
Latenpow Strawberry V2 end: 5864, 5860, 5879, 5893, 5903
Latenpow White initial: 979, 984, 967, 968, 968,
Latenpow White end: 6872, 6872, 6862, 6862, 6866
Latenpow Strawberry initial: 966, 970, 972, 982, 954
Latenpow Strawberry end: 6853, 6861, 6862, 6866, 6845
Outemu Pink/Beige initial: 989, 995, 985, 971, 968
Outemu Pink/Beige end: 6822, 6826, 6817, 6815, 6809
Geon Raptor HE initial: 965, 967, 979, 961, 968
Geon Raptor HE end: 5884, 5880, 5888, 5876, 5889
Geon Raw HE initial: 907, 929, 909, 927, 922
Geon Raw HE end: 5554, 5570, 5552, 5588, 5589
MoyuStudio Black Knight initial: 763, 750, 742, 750, 744
MoyuStudio Black Knight end: 5654, 5649, 5654, 5652, 5636
Kailh Mistral initial: 590, 593, 586, 583, 584
Kailh Mistral end: 4413, 4434, 4387, 4235, 4284
Kailh Flame initial: 594, 592, 610, 601, 600
Kailh Flame end: 4356, 4312, 4545, 4396, 4320
KS-20 W (new) initial: 901, 887, 887, 889, 888
KS-20 W (new) end: 5791, 5787, 5774, 5782, 5772
Lekker (new) initial: 869, 873, 861, 884, 859
Lekker (new) end: 5723, 5724, 5720, 5736, 5741
KS-20 W initial: 885, 882, 905, 883, 860
KS-20 W end: 5777, 5744, 5789, 5790, 5754
KS-20 O initial: 865, 864, 846, 865, 859
KS-20 O end: 5780, 5738, 5764, 5758, 5770
KS-20U W initial: 772, 765, 760, 769, 757
KS-20U W end: 5776, 5772, 5762, 5768, 5758
KS-20U O initial: 669, 673, 653, 642, 660
KS-20U O end: 5601, 5595, 5587, 5549, 5606
KS-20T initial: 1179, 978, 961, 1198, 1170
KS-20T end: 5689, 5552, 5575, 5683, 5714
KS-20T P initial: 957, 954, 953, 949, 955
KS-20T P end: 5450, 5435, 5447, 5465, 5435
Hejin Teal initial: 729, 727, 714, 716, 734
Hejin Teal end: 5710, 5711, 5710, 5706, 5734
Hejin Yellow initial: 728, 715, 721, 728, 716
Hejin Yellow end: 5736, 5725, 5710, 5742, 5721
The slight variation between recolored switches I presumed to be because of manufacturing tolerances and magnet strength tolerances.
okay so you've posted the data of the following switches magnetic flux
Logically that’d make sense.
now how does this relate to your theory about the chart
Where did you get this? is this publicly available? 
it's from his testing
jeez didn't know people are very passionate about these things
I just wanted my keyboard to clack
haha
yes but how does this relate to the data we have
go jades and cf plate
ohhh so what is your end switch? what exact parts
all that data dump shows is that magnets have a variance and they tell us this on the page even with +- numbers
I heard CF plate clacks the most, it doesn't have much character?
I like cf plates but they do clack a lot
not as thin sounding as alu
raw stem, BK top, jade pro spring and bottom
less meaty sounding than fr4
CF is dense so it is brighter than plastics
almost the same as yours if I'm not wrong?
it shows that even switches with supposedly the same travel and the same magnet strengths KS-20Us and Lekker V1s can show different results regardless of wobble.
yeah fr4 is probably my least favorite when it comes to denser plates
yes but how does this relate to the chart
ohh nice, so how do you like it?
yes, within publicly noted leeway
first time someone else builds this 😄
idk how you fit yours into the plate, it's a very tight fit
we already know that all magnets and switches have variance to a level
but it does
eg - they tell us the variance
yeah it also depends on the plate, but after installing the switch is even tighter I feel like
Soon it’ll be me as well 
wanted to try them myself after you sent your sound clips. Sounds very dreamy even with FR4 imo.
fr4 is probs my #1 fav plate material ngl
That’s my explanation for why the Lekkers and KS-20Us show a different result, that’s what you wanted to know.
cf 2nd
Once you're done just be very careful fitting on the plate. I busted one of my BK tops sadly
what? No we want to know why box stems tend to perform better
Wwowoow I’ll keep that in mind thank you
or why stability is a factor
You did in the message I linked, that’s what I’m referring to and that’s why I brought it up.
so is your theory still that on every chart the ks20u and lekkers perform different solely due to variance every time?
I also explained my reasoning for that. It’s because they’re shorter travel switches.
but then why do the jade pros perform worse
The wobble of both is quite similar.
but how does less travel in any way correlate with better performance? the only performance benefit to be gained from differing switches is with tolerances and having less wobble/more stability
V1-V1.5- KS-20Us.
jade pros are also shorter travel
And I also agree with the sentiments @calm pulsar, the bottom out sound is not that much different, but top out is dreamy though!
for me its alu I think
fr4 is like bright and clack, but also has some of the frequencies that I dont like for HE
but its also in the frog mini for me so it might be different in other cases
Because calibration is different.
That’s my theory.
yeah the idea is to have jade bottom out with snappier topout
but it isn't? autocal treats all switches the same by deriving its "range" from values from top out and bottom out
I think its just a tray mount thing
frog mini is great esp on tadpoles
yea idk how you came out with this. I enjoy it very much. Thank you for sharing!
but I feel like it still sounds very similar to tray mount
yeah which is why im waiting for a new case to try out gummy oring mounting, proper one
you should also try the 461e mounting
that's surprisingly good
oh I would but I kinda don't like the looks of 461e haha
but the mounting is interesting and it seems similar to 80he for me
In my case, the switch is a little heavy to the press, my guess is because of the bk top and the jade bottom fitting causing the raw stem to be a tad tighter, but I'm slowly getting used to it.
How’s this? My friend is thinking of getting it https://www.melgeek.com/products/made68-pro
Less is MoreDIY Magnetic Switch Keyboard MelGeek has always aimed to express a multitude of concepts through its designs. After several series of product development, we decided to create a classic and minimalist product. Embracing the "Less is more" design philosophy and considering the ambiance of the desktop, the MA
@flat cobalt just something to keep in mind
yeah it can be that way, but for me it has become smoother in time as lube set in and also the switch itself breaking in
On the 60HE, full travel switches, it treated all switches as shorter travel until a switch exceeds the Jade’s flux value at bottom out. So recalibrated the board (unplug replug), and pressed a Lekker to 3.3mm or so, it would show 4.0mm in analog monitor, then if you continued to press it, its total travel would be updated in real time.
That’s calibration during use.
actually the original version of the frankenswitch was with the gateron stem and it was so tight that in some cases the switch didnt return after pressing @hollow dagger 
and/or play with it and hold the switch at bottom out
it'll adjust and correct itself properly
so there is a degree of scuffiness with frankenswitches
This is only for switches with a magnet strength the same or stronger than that of Lekkers. Switches with weaker magnets never calibrated in real time like that and they’d only actuation until 3.25mm or so in analog monitor.
you're just spouting words without meaning
doesn't deep calibration fix this?
aka once the deep calibration happens there is no longer the compensation jump
Giving an example that there’s more to it. Not just dynamic deadzone for wvery and all switches, magnet strengths plays a role. You think a little/no role at all I believe, I think a very big role.
Does that make sense?
No.
i recall testing it again when my 80he arrived and it would do the compensation jump, but after warming up in valorant etc i'd re-check analog monitor and it didn't do the compensation jump anymore
i think you might be mistaken here
it jumps at first until it does the deep calibration for the keys you used enough
and iirc simon improved it recently where it does it way faster now
Raw HE’s specifically experienced funky calibration at first on the 80HE, that jump (I called it compensation stage) was trigger if you pressed really hard, not overtime.
but yeah that jump in the graph disappears after deep calibration
magnet strength doesn't play a role in autocal/deadzone compensation because it is a constant
The slight variation in magnet strength and manufacturing tolerances also played a role. Some Raw HEs calibrated properly right away.
magnet strength never changes on the fly
there were even a lot of threads about the 3.5mm or whatever jump it was when 80he launched, the simon pushed an update
With the latest firmware it’s completely gone which is pretty neat. All Raw HEs calibrate properly now. Switches with weaker magnets not yet though.
yeah what I'm saying is it was also going away before but on keys that you used and it took longer
i know because i have raw he and would check before/after valorant warm up
it wouldn't calibrate properly at first but like 10-15min later it would be calibrated for wasd
is wooting 60he avr “worse” compared to 60he+ in terms of actuation/rt or is it just different switch magnet variance? my 60he seems to be more sensitive ie more prone to letter spam when on higher actuation than my 60he+
my 60he+ has hand lubed raws tho and my 60he has factory black knights
That’s why I believe my theory to be fact. I’ve seen switches with weaker magnets in analog monitor, the deadzone isn’t existent like it is in the stem swapped lekkers for example.
but deep calibration does get rid of the jump though...
even on weaker magnets right now
yeah, that’s why I wanted manual calibration because that’s essentially what you had to do to calibrate all keys properly (manual calibration and calibration during use are similar, most find during use more convenient though).
No, with the latest firmware on the 80HE switches with weaker magnets are still not optimally compatible. Flame & Mistral respectively.
is that even after using them a bunch?
flame and mistral also have much weaker magnets than the switches on our chart though like jade pros/gaming/ttc etc
The jump on the latest firmware is gone as well, since the scanning update I believe.
That’s not what I’m arguing, I’m just explaining the difference real quick and what happens. It’s the reason why I don’t think dynamic deadzone calibration happens is because it doesn’t seem to be the case for switches with weaker magnets and Lekker V1s and stem swapped raptors seem to have a identical deadzone which would be odd considering how much their wobble varies.
do you have data on the deadzone of lekker v1 and stem swapped raptors?
We’ll end it here and maybe in the future either of us will be disproven.
i thought we didn't have any data on that as far as measurements
I tested them on the 60HE a while ago.
you have a multimeter setup?
Not talking about the deadzone test in the video, as you know I do not have the equipment to test like that. I’m talking about in analog monitor as I said previously.
oh, yeah i'm talking about actual deadzone
as in this gives x deadzone and this gives y deadzone in mm
That’s what I’m talking about and what I base my reason on as I’ve explained. As unlike as it may seem to you, I believe it to be true.
We’ll end it here.
I'm going to bed but I see this conversation is still going on. If it's still going on when I wake up, I'm punching throats.
they restarted it today i'm more a 3rd party spectator now lol
man i wish someone had actual data
i need to resub to eyejoker, he might be only one with proper deadzone test info
what switches are you using in this test
i just wish I could read it!!
Just to add, these 3 are in the mad60 line and are all box stems
yeah they're really bad box stems though with tons of flex
i've been trying to find if eyejoker had some public switch deadzone test info anywhere, because i recall he had rough ones posted in his discord for some stuff, but I couldn't find anything public
theyre cheap and better than gateron dual rail whites that's in the base model at least
Pay sno to read it
it is chinese it seems, but maybe sno knows it 😄
eyejoker's discord is in korean
Kailh Mistral and Flames respectively.
it just randomly screws with the input when you change the rt lol
what unit is the horizontal axis in? ms?
All those boards like the Raven61/68, Mad60/68, Battle68 and Fighting68 are the new PCBs by GTech right?
They went from the KS-37 compatible boards like the ATK and Endgame to KS-20 compatible ones.
that's mm - he's measuring how much the input changed when the mad60 uses the pro switches at different settings vs. what it was set at
early ATKs
ye
is there a reason why there are KS-37 and KS-20 switches
whims of the Gateron overlords
I think because of that LED and sensor combination thingy that was on GTech’s PCBs
it’s probably cheaper than a separate sensor and LED.
Hey there, are you able to help me pick between Lekker 45 vs Lekker 60 switches?
I mainly play fortnite and I don't know which one will be better for me
what switch did you used to use?
Huano Brown Switch
I plan on getting the Nuphy Halo 65 HE, it has the magnetic Jade Pro switches but I'll change some of the switches to the lekker 45/60
bottoms out at 55g, did you enjoy that switch?
yeah pretty good
you're in the middle, so go with your preference, if you'd like a lighter one get 45s
Could you tell me if the Magnetic Jade Pro switches are more familiar to the lekker 45 or lekker 60?
so its closer to the lekker 45?
ye
Where is the original video?
What switch do you think are better, Jade pro or lekker
i like the pros cos they sound better
eyejokers youtube
TY!
I'm just confused cause apparently the switches are heavy and you can get finger fatigue in like 2-3 hours
could be due to the longer springs on the pros
but imo the pros are a straight upgrade
I see
yeah I saw the pros are much more expensive
BF sales on Ali offsets that a little
Whats your opinion on it
LMAOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
cheapest board you can get with full jade pros, good software, great package overall
the latency is apparently great as well
im confused, what does that mean
oh
nvm,
I got it
i need the f row in everyday use
Yeah I wish it was a 75 key keyboard, I'd get the halo 75 he but
its design throws me away
specially the buttons at the bottom
you mean the field75
yes yeah that
they dont have plans for a halo75, so i just said fk it and got the air
that cancelled the deal for me
can u tell me whats up with the supposed 2500hz support tho?
like I believe ur keyboard is 8000hz full support
but these ones are 2500
ye mine is dual 8k, the halo has lower scan rate
Isn't that deceiving in a way? Calling that a full 8000hz board whereas it goes up until 2500?
i dont think they specified which 8k
sure
8k polling refers to what the hardware is rated for
actual performance is different
cos their optimisation can be ass
kinda
can u tell me what the best keyboard would be within 150$?
Nuphy's firmware is a hot mess though 
is it? I've only heard good things about it
this is the halo65, 4.54 is downstroke, 1.91 is upstroke on average (ms)
Does Nuphy not have something like Tachyon?
damn
I've been dealing with dks issues since august to the point that it will lock up
dks?
this is the air60he, 3.87 down, 1.2ms up
Dynamic Keystroke
i dont use dks so i'm not hitting those issues
I use it several hours everyday
ah I see
well I dont use it either
but I can see why its an issue for u
can u guys tell me what the best keyboard would be within 150$?
I would get the wooting 80he but in Bangladesh, the keyboards gonna cost me 410$ to bring
Halo65 HE or used Wooting 60HE
just buy local probably
Halo65 HE, I can't get my hand on a wooting keyboard specially in Bangladesh where its basically a delicacy and I can't justify spending 410$ on the wooting 80 HE where I could buy 2 of those for the single price
seems like ur tax is high
incredibly
we dont have shit in local
this what we got in local
honestly
just buy a nice keyboard
you dont need to buy a gaming one
but up to you
You could get something cheap like the Raven68, it’s really decent for a $65 board.
I'll look into it, thanks
same stuff here in canada
stopped production in china a few months back, right after the fire68 launched
makes sense
dont recommend the halo65
atp just get the air60he
better perf for pretty much the same price
or get a melgeek made68 pro
- Nuphy Air75HE when it goes live
Halo65 HE is 90USD
never found out where this list came from
It's good enough for entry level he keyboard
Their firmware is shit but for most non advanced users, it's good enough
🫡
Vacuum form a new one
it’ll fill with dust and dampen the sound
guess this will be one of my peripherals that will become dusty
and i feel like there is some sort of catch to it but there isnt in the reviewers videos
noooooooooooo
vacuum seal we go
I guess that will work too
LMAO
that's oddly cursed
https://youtu.be/-W7szd9qi-8?si=pdEZIsh1s0oE69km&t=382 the catch is it sounds like breaking chocolate bars
Socials: https://linktr.ee/jaeky
Code "JAEKY" For a 10% Discount
NuPhy Halo65 HE: https://nuphy.com/products/nuphy-halo65-he?sca_ref=6672995.tOqDJV4Btj
Air60 HE Review: https://youtu.be/-qze_iXJ8I8?si=bPJRSulm2EmUiIMp
KeyTok Keycaps Review: https://youtu.be/cxHk4txmkZU?si=c_4DzZFYA972oavq
TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Review
04:23 Software
05:28 Performan...
a lot of stuff doesn't fit lol
my carry case doesn't fit it either because it's wider than normal 60%
need to buy a new travel case
it sounded good in other reviews, maybe it was the difference between corals and jade pros
nice set
it's good enough for the price
i dont doubt it






