#đ§âkeyboard_modding
1 messages ¡ Page 178 of 1
unless it's recent update yeah
so basically they should go back to 4mm always, and just let people re-calibrate pretty fast when swapping switches, save to kb, so kb remembers like max travel distance at startup.
With the current firmware the keyboard constantly calibrates each key when pressed deeper than it was previously and saving that remembering that data. Thatâs why I think that it canât be good for latency.
Yes, this would be better than choosing the switches you use in Wootility.
As that would be less accurate.
hmm the tape seems to get the board higher\stand off more, kindof looks worse on the alu-maze which already has bottom row raised above the edge
What tape are you using and how many layers?
@tawdry tree but also maybe right like if i press a 3.5mm switch very hard, or it's a bit imprecise to like 3.6 or 3.7, it will register as 4mm with current firmware I guess.
Correct. If you physically do not exceed +/- 3.5mm the keyboard understands it as a fully pressed key.
yeah idk, they are the ones that ultimately know all this better and should do what's best
but basing it on that 3.5mm calibration and wooting not communicating this enough to like pros and players, that's a bit concerning.
(at least I think they don't communicate it well)
Hi everyone.
I am getting my first Wooting 60HE nextweek. What is the best switches I can upgrade to?
wait for new wooting switches I guess, or wait for some compatible tactile switches if it doesn't affect your gameplay
not really many better switches available
gateron magnetic jades or gateron ks20u dual rail
Plate FR4 or POM or aluminum ???
Because funny
anyone used the Gateron KS-20U Magnetic switches yet? thinking of buying them
yeah I do
I posted a sound video about them on my Tofu60 Redux. They are working well, come a bit overlubed, and are a bit heavier to press bare in mind, but sound pretty good oob.
they're all linear, not gonna be much difference in sound
there is, due to dual rail there is far less wobble, and a different contact point
ooo you got a link that i can check?
so there is less rattling, and the kickback sounds diffferent
going from the stock wooting switches so should be nice
just search my post
this one right?
sorry man im new to all thisđ
doesn't mean you can't read đ
stock wooting switches are nice too tho, and it's all linear so any difference won't be big, and wobble is even kind of nice an more pleasant to type with.
just better I think to wait for some compatible tactile he switch or new wooting switches (which will just have less issues on average than other)
unless you have enough money ofc for everything
also with linear, sound, most have headset on, so this matters even less
Agreed. I would say though one thing, the oob stock L45 has a very bad sound. Its pretty basic lube only on a rail of the stem and everything else is dry. Now if I would compare oob l45\ks20u, the KS20U sounds better by miles, they are hard lubed, and maybe for someone who doesn't want to lube their own switches its a good choice. The biggest diff would be the firmness of the stem, due to dual rail it doesn't shake and wobble much, and there is no rattle. Some will like this some wont as you said. Hand lubed L45s can sound really nice though, as I posted in the latest video, I even prefer that sound to the oob KS20u.
I guess yeah, but I also for example don't get how L45 is like better than L60, seems way too sensitive for like everyone. I don't even have heavy big fingers and L60 is already too sensitive.
don't see any scenario where L45 is actually better, only for like maybe children 2-12
I would say a scenario would be when you're used to very light pressing in high competitive FPS gaming. The L60 with stock springs are quite heavy to press and will cause a finger fatigue after hours of gaming sessions.
mine L60 are not heavy at all tho
maybe your just used to it, because I was very used to force of 40-45 and when I tested the KS20U 50g it even was much harder feeling to press.
with L45, you can't really rest fingers on them for example, and having to have low actuation while gaming is not great
your fingers will be like more tense because you can't rest them on keys enough, and also having to press keys more carefully to not misclick
It depends on what you play
@tawdry tree I only now see the new lekker beta update with calibration stuff, so this is very recent
eyah this is all super sensitive, especially for L45, don't know how you do it
Wootility Beta you mean? The dynamic calibration implementation has been in the non beta for quite some time already.
Cant u make ur own tactile with jades + ks22 optical
Or lekkers + ks 22 optical
Not without a hassle.

not only hassle, its also just gonna be semi-tactile, since 1 touch point (and on the corner), less predictable press etc.
Sensitive touch I guess đ
but I actually wonder with this new always-calibrating update, if magnets that are statically places somewhere near kb (some attachment or something), interfere much less with switches, since they're just always re-calibrated.
(well like the first press after moving magnet will be inaccurate I guess, but then accurate)
(strong magnets might still mess up things regardless, but maybe weaker and a bit further away ones won't)
it might still not be completely accurate some times, because when you press multiple keys together, the small magnet in that neighboring key I think changes the force of that bigger "addon" magnet going though the other key's sensor, etc.
Adding magnets to HE keyboards is perfectly fine as long as the magnets donât interfere with the HE sensor and the switchâs magnet. Steelseriesâ Apex Pro has a wrist rest magnetically attached without issue.
it's not fine tho, it will for sure interfere at least a bit, if they're too close or too strong, or not calibrating pretty much on the fly.
steelseries he seems like has calibration mode, so I guess it's not really calibrated on the fly, maybe somehow a little not fully.
like this https://www.reddit.com/r/steelseries/comments/fq69jv/magnet_problem_whit_apex_pro_keyboard/
steelseries is almost always garbage tho in everything, look how they didn't bother to place magnets like further down and also didn't bother to use like maybe 3 times weaker magnets, but instead like stretch them out (closer to bottom) so they would have 3 times surface area than current.
it's kind of down I guess, but if they made them 3 times weaker and stretched surface area out even more down, would be better.
also judging by that first video (this picture might not be HE), it sits right below that OS key, so that's why it activates
Hold a magnet over your Wooting board and it will behave the exact same. This doesnât have to do with calibration, dynamically or not.
yes but putting a magnet right there is kinda dumb
The Apex Pro calibrates on startup like Wootingâs boards. Wooting only implemented the dynamic calibration because of the Jade switches and it doesnât seem like a permanent solution as there are a few cons to it like you yourself mentioned.
"The Apex Pro calibrates on startup" what does this exactly mean tho, because you can't really calibrate without pressing keys
âď¸ He is using the magnet in the wrist rest to active trigger the HE sensor.
You can, Wooting still does it like I explained before. It calibrates on startup and dynamically during use whereas they previously only calibrated on startup.
Thatâs why you can fuck the calibration up by holding a key and then plugging the keyboard in.
Goes for both Woot and Steelseries.
Thatâs why manual calibration would be better as well.
issue is that you can't really fully calibrate just on startup tho, especially not with a magnet close, you don't know that magnet's field position, affecting keys when pressed
The magnets on the wrist rest donât interfere.
You can, the start and end magnetic flux of a switch is constant. If you know the start magnetic flux you can predict the end magnetic flux and thereby the location/height of the magnet.
but if this "on the fly" calibration is just temp solution, when it's removed, and let's say you use some magnetic wrist rest on and off, you would like have to calibrate manually when attaching/detaching it.
but it doesn't have to be visible for the magnet to interfere. but i don't have dynamic lights on to really test it like that (or strong enough magnet). but just small interference is already like enough to mess your input tho.
or attaching/detaching some addon while using kb (if magnet is in addon, but maybe more likely for it to be pretty weak magnet in kb itself, but even so, the field is disturbed by addon a bit)
Iâm quite sure you did not have to recalibrate when attaching/detaching the wrist rest on the Apex Pro while it was on. I played around with magnets a lot while using it and the switches would only trigger (on highest actuation point) when I held a magnet right above it.
Either way, if Wooting ever does do a magnetic attachment Iâm sure theyâll make sure it does not interfere with the HE sensors and magnetic fields of the switchesâ magnets.
Dynamic calibration is not necessary for that. đ
can someone help me with easy way to make my wooting 60he sound better?
ok actually testing now with "racing profile", putting pretty small magnet underneath kb, under the space bar (better in that gap), on 0.1 sense, i get visual response (response all around underneath kb)
even more response if i follow that gap to the left (and right)
I presume dynamic calibration would actually be worse as it remembers the âstrongestâ magnetic flux. I presume if you hold a stronger magnet over a switch that switch would become unusable.
Directly above or directly below is where the HE sensor detects the most I believe.
currently holding magnet like under space, getting visual response, then clicking the space key (to calibrate), after it it's still the same visual response, so it doesn't actually calibrate with that magnet present on the fly.
Iâll test this later too. You might have to turn the magnet around as the sensor doesnât interact with both poles.
testing turning around same thing
the sensor interacts with both poles tho, but turning it around, increased interaction by like x10 and keys started to even press
Then it probably caps out when it reads a magnetic flux too high.
yeah, but it's really not that high, just barely activating it
Iâll test it tonight as well.
sure, but my test seems pretty conclusive
yeah but i tested with just barely key lighting up, so this little interference should really be calibrated out
I donât know how I can explain it better. Dynamic calibration checks for the highest magnetic flux and if it reads a higher flux than the previous reading it adjusts it on the fly. It does not work vise versa as in if it detects a lower magnetic flux it then adjusts the 0 point of a switch.
Dynamic calibration starts from 3.5mm and down.
magnet i used is not like super weak tho, you can definitely use a bit weaker magnets, but like larger surface area to reduce interference, but also be sure to not align poles so field path goes through sensor, but also possible to shield that direction with Mu-metals, being part of magnet - do all this together and I guess it's pretty safe.
^
That is your point as well if I understand this correctly?
it doesn't calibrate properly is all that matters I guess, so if they calibrate in some other way that's not actually adequate calibration, than yeah
Manual calibration > dynamic calibration.
yeah but not with attachments and stuff moving around kb frequently
No calibration fixes that. You misunderstand what dynamic calibration actually does but itâs fine.
Just this.
unless magnets are already inside of kb - but that's not great you know, you're kind of setting up for malfunction this way.
yeah but you saw that steelseries wrist rest actually interferes with kb on movement
and in general not preferable (with strong and low surface area magnet).
Adding magnets to HE keyboards is perfectly fine as long as the magnets donât interfere with the HE sensor and the switchâs magnet. Steelseriesâ Apex Pro has a wrist rest magnetically attached without issue.
It does not, the person in the video you linked literally puts his wrist rest over his keyboard. đ
yeah but this will happen when you attach/detach it etc
In itâs attached position is does not interfere.
When pressed right above the keyboard it does indeed interfere like any magnet would.
That would still be secondary to the primary issue of it being a SteelSeries product 
and this for example doesn't work for my 3-part suggestion https://discord.com/channels/167181566978555904/1203058756657619004, because of how close magnets would sit to the sensors (and aligned in a horizontal way).
Magnets, how do they even work?
The Juggalos knew the truth all along!
iâm tempted
i kind of want one
but
iâve put enough money into my 60he
and iâve barely had it long enough to consider a new board
I mean its just a keyboard in the end
Same but I've had mine over a year soooooooooo...maybe
yea
is there a case list for the 80he module ? if there is any cases for it
same đ

The ones that wooting is making
Thatâs it
For now 
Forever 
there will probably be options in the future
isnât the 80he gasket mount ?
or no
Itâs kind of gasket mount as it uses a plate insert for the gasket
So what would normally be plate foam has tabs on it
getting JIS module with both ISO nordic and JIS keycaps has sparked my interest about 80HE more. pretty nice layout overall, with that big left shift.
does a 1.0u Alt key follow with either of these keycap sets? nicer to have it next to the left of spacebar there I think
unfortunately the right shift is too far away from homerow position
maybe I will have to learn some kind of not "F and J" index finger homerow position but "F and K"
no, the number after the M is the diameter, so M2.5 is larger in diameter than M2
you'd want e.g. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DKI5ME2
(assuming this is for burger o-ring mount on 60HE trays)
Yessir thanks
Barley any of the screw was sticking out the tape I was so confused lol
Gonna hit home depot
did you get 1.5mm or 2mm thick o-rings?
ye 6mm screw should be good then
With 3 layers of tape too?
i only had 1 (and eventually removed it anyways) but probably
with 2mm thick i found that the 6mm screw was a smidge short and you'd end up squishing the top o-ring out
so 1.5mm should be fine
Yea Iâve heard it doesnât do much
Thanks a lot
yo what kind of o-rings do you guys recommend for jades? The ones I had are too wide so they are not usable
as in between the stem and keycap?
is tapemodding the 60he in a tofu redux worth it?
i tapemodded mine, it sounds really nice
kay,als ofor burgermount i need longer screws i think
oh wait its linked earlioer in chat
is all preference in the end, worst case you're down a meter of tape
i didn't like it in the end but ymmv
this istrue
it gives it a deeper sound, so if you're into that then you'll like it, worth testing at the least
ill give it a shot
who uses right shift anyways amirite
I do
right shift feels way more awkward than left for me
left is right there for my pinky
on JIS at least left shift is big not like on ISO, but right shift is really too far away unfortunately
would feel awkward too as well you probalby don't type in japaense or use any of those keys
what's funny is that JIS isn't even really used that much in Japan
what's the most common layout?
oh interesting
I was surprised too after my malaysian friend who was also into keyboards been studying over there for 2 years now
he's like no one really uses JIS
yeah JIS seems a little weird to use since the spacebar is so short
espicially for gaming, you'd have to stretch ya thumb when using WASD
could just rebind the key there to space on a gaming profile
Yes. When I use my GMK spacebar it sounds awful and it rattles but when I use a spacebar from a PBT keycap set that I have from KBDfans it sounds amazing. Dno what to do because I really want to use my GMK spacebar so that it fits with the rest of the keyboard
If it's still ticking/rattling with the gmk put plastic cling wrap in the stem of the GMK spacebar
and then push it on to your stabs
im not sure what plastic cling wrap is but Ill search it up. The issue is definately the stems not sticking to the keycap because when I barely pull it, it falls off
like the stuff you use to wrap leftovers with
oh I see ill try that thanks
not really an issue with WASD, even better actually, reaching spacebar fine, and much easier reach the button left to it (like important in dota, like the Alt key, need to remap)
but also much better for ESDF usage for sure, something keyboards never keep in mind.
oh yeah thats a good point
made suggestion for JIS no-bump J and bump K, then nicer to swap home row position to F and K (index fingers) instead of F and J (many benefits really)
https://discord.com/channels/167181566978555904/1216076681106952304
would be pretty annoying to relearn and use that stuff with current bump on J
well it's true you could bind right Shift to the 1.0u key left to it also, but pretty lame and bad feeling when pressing it. also easier to misclick.
I mean you can do whatever with your money, but im not sure why you want the JIS layout anyways. it seems to be more inconvenient than its worth.
because i have ISO, I always had 1.25u small left shift, and it's also a bad shift if you use ESDF (harder to reach).
the Alt placement left to spacebar would be also much better accessible with right thumb especially with ESDF (after rebinding it).
in general smaller spacebar means Alt keys (after rebinding) are closer to center and easier to do shortcuts and also pressing Alt Gr + 7 = { in ISO (try to press it, how not comfortable it is)
ANSI has lame Enter tho, that's the main issue, and not enough buttons for ISO I guess, but JIS is like pretty perfect except that too far away right Shift
White = GMK / Black = KBDfans PBT. So annoyingâŚ.
JIS at least keeps buttons largely the same, ANSI messes with ISO muscle memory too much.
I think you just don't like the higher pitched sound of the gmk one is all
As I'm not hearing rattle or looseness
Mine for example
i like yours
GMK (ABS) is higher pitched than PBT
yes but i feel its not that. It's incosistent and its hard to show it on video. I know it sits "loose" so it might be just me thinking it sounds bad when in fact its alright
I see the shine đ
When I put on the pbt keycap it feels sturdy and good
this set been in use for 4 years it do be shining 
are we showing off spacebars
you might have a banana spacebar grief
take it off and put on table
see how flat is lies
drench it in hot water and bend it
that plastic trick props going to be your best bet in addition

meh i have ansi and made my keeb like this works very good
ansi supremacy
i truly enjoy this more than iso
only thing i cant fix is this button
dont care that much bout it anyways
i dont use it that often
might bind this button to it if thats something i can do in wootility
Yeah I don't use those keys but I use the underlying ones on standard ansi
as it's period and comma
but not often do I use <>
i dont either
oh yeah it worked
its all good then
nice
basically iso now lol
so happy this worke out as i thought it would
The joys of remapping keys
yeah its awsome lol
found a solution to use the acutal keys for each remap bind now also
wonders
except the key under backspace but thats all good
i flipped these to around the < i had to this now -
i need opinions do i add a white enter key and escape key? or all black better
theres so many options find something nice .)
idk who that is bro
yall notice a sound difference or nah
tofu case and lubed keys (some might over/under lubed i cant tell)
Wooting is listening in this thread https://discord.com/channels/167181566978555904/1216076681106952304,
if enough people want this, they will add 2 additional keycaps to JIS layout, K with a bump and J with no bump, so that you can use the "F and K" home row alternative, instead of "F and J", and this way much easier and comfortable reach the further away placed Right Shift on the JIS layout. But also easier to reach the 1.0u Backspace on it (while also not mislicking something), and also easier reaching Del and that right cluster of keys in general, and also having keyboard be more centered on you, meaning also a bit more mouse space.
you're spamming keys with no desk mat in a echo room with a phone mic 
hard to pick up anything
lol
i didn't know a desk mat made a difference
you can still hear it
Sound waves bounce
doesnt affect people that isnt using jis tho
ion got a desk mat, i do got a mouse pad tho xd
Would a layout like this be possible to achieve on a wooting PCB?
Having that extra button on a 60% would be great to have
Itâd require a new location for switch, HE sensor, LED and paths. DIYing would be borderline impossible.
Could they make a new keyboard with split shift support? Yeah of course!
Yeah I can see now, the PCB layout is just different
Honestly Iâm not too big on the way it looks. I think a 65% would make more sense in comparison to this layout but I guess you still keep the compact 60%ish type of size
I like 64% because it can be used in 60% cases and as of right now there are just a whole lot more cases to choose from in the 60% market than in any other.
I prefer 65% as well but I find it worth the trade off.
Ah, that would make sense. 60%s are very customizable in terms of after market cases
Yeah, I think itâs worth it over 65%.
maybe i just lack imagination, but whenever there's a lone key on the side like that i can never really decide on what to map it to
home/end/pgup/pgdn usually go on fn arrows for me, and del on fn+backspace
MT, Del and Ins
macro key
Then play/pause maybe?
Or macro yeah
with macro 1 2 3 etc using layers
fair yeah
Because it's nto a key I would use like normal, but something I would go out of my way for and a macro is usually the only thing I do that for.
Sorry if this is a stupid question but if i buy the gateron jade switches, does that mean that if i have keys that i put on 4mm actuation, i would have to change them to 3.5mm for them to actuate? Thank you if you are able to answer
no, the board will adjust. think of 4mm as meaning 100% instead
(or almost 100% since it's 4.1mm travel on stock but you get the idea)
time to build my first custom! all parts just came in. do these steps seem right
1. Test PCB
2. Lube/Tune Stabs install into pcb
3. tempest tape mod under pcb
4. Assemble plate and switches (not hand lubing yet)
5. gummy o ring install
6. put case foam in/polyfill/ then install pcb/plate into case
7. keycaps
if it's your first custom i'd suggest saving the sound mods for after first assembly so you get an idea of how it actually changes but up to you
i defaulted to poron plate foam and tape mod based on assumptions from videos but ended up liking the sound of the silicone pad and no tape better
I agree. Just doing the most mods possible doesn't mean it will sound the best.
What does tape mod do
ye, and sound tests aren't as objective/transferrable as we might think
reduces some higher frequency sounds (as for what it does mechanically to do that, i've no idea)
I love when I watch a video and the before sounds better. They should do blind tests because I feel like psychologically a lot of people just assume the after is always better.
that and different mics and environments have different properties
i mean personally most of the mods i watched before and after, i usually liked after better. but i get it will sound really different irl, so i guess ill do no mods first and do one at a time.
even your fingers make a difference, truely too many variables.
Is that the standoff on the tofu redux thatâs supposed to be removable or?
Or the stand off is what goes in there
the two on each side are integrated/default, the one in the middle and the one by the spacebar are optional standoffs you can screw in
have seen people drill or cut them out for gummy o-ring, but that's permanent obv
you can also just set some foam or smaller o-rings on top of them to isolate a bit
Ok thank you
For magnetic jades, is it alright to apply 0.15mm PC switch films? I heard that it isn't worth it for switches with already super tight housings but can't seem to find anywhere if the jades have tight housings or not.
for me they have no rattle and very Little to no loose movement with caps on if anything they give a feeling of a very tight housing
so it has tight housing or loose?
tight
Is that an alu weight or why is it silver 
Or is lighting playing a trick on me
brass
the gem80 itself might be having a pretty rough launch, but the keycaps are pretty darn nice for a $34 set
does anyone have any thoughts on the kbdfans holy60? i just saw it when looking through and i wonder how someone would be able to mod it + the acoustics of it in general
having zero experience with this case, I'd imagine the acoustics would be determined by the material of the desk and desk pad rather than the case itself
since that's what the sound will be reverberating off of
alexotos built it
ooh, will check that out
It seems like a HE worst nightmare lol
But maybe thatâs just me
Canât wait for lekker 2.0 leaks
It was 
can you seperate the pcb from the plate with the switches still on the plate?
no remove the switches first
what? you dont have to take the switches off first when removing the plate.
^ its also recommended if u gonna remove all the switches
yes
oh darn i took out all the switches already lol. well next time ill keep them on the plate
Yeah I take off pcb and then switches
Otherwise it gives me arthritis because them switches be gripping
just got mines
do i need to do anything? or can just use it like the normal lekker switches
i read something about calibrating it and stuff before
Just use em
they sound amazing stock. dont need to lube on anything just use em
the board will do it automatically when it boots
i like that
I wish i could recreate the spacebar i had like 6 months ago
was like a squishy or watery sound
was amazing
You could try cardboard
as case?
Idk about the spacebar key tho since i didnt really slap it in and as a replacement to foam or double it Foam + Cardboard
its not really gonna affect it at all
I did try it, its pretty poppy
it either make it sounds more full or just sound different in some way
but not major
This unique sound i had was with stock stabs
i dont remember the mods back then
but i loved that, thats all i could say
WELP you could always experiment and try again
And actually no it enhances the sound somewhat depending on the thiccness
I did to my prebuilt like an hr when i got my prebuilt
I ran the tofu and the plastic case, it only sounds a bit diff esp if u run the
Tofu foam
you used the cardboard as case foam?
I just did an hr ago yes
mine at the moment
like it aight
i dont really want to do anything with my keeb anymore
just going off for looks, done everything i wanted/could
I mean its alright ig its a whenever thing i got a vid for it
but its me yapping
- the entire sounds of it somewhat
no seriously
And yea ig, the burn out from modding or experimentation
And sorry if i sound a bit demeneted rn LOL im a lil focused on something IRL
but it still sounds good
Can anyone help me? I just ordered a full size woothing keyboard - Just wanted to know if I can buy customized keycaps from other website, would they work? Not sure how it works.
I was looking at this:
https://goblintechkeys.com/
dunno about that site in particular, but yes, as long as they have mx stems (i.e. the vast vast majority of keycaps)
TY!
Sheeeeesh
Here's without the fan blowing in the bqckground
What sandwich pad material and case foam material would dampen the sound the most? My alumaze build is still way too loud for my tastes
honestly i dont want to hear it at all lol
silicone plate pad dampens more afaik
for case, if you really want to dampen more than foam, you could look into butyl automotive sound deadener. I've only used it on plastic cases but it's fairly effective
(just make sure there is no metal to PCB contact because they are usually foil backed)
ah okay looks like the module is stock with the silicone one in it
i was also looking at cutting up a sheet of sorbothane and replacing the stock case foam
Polyfill,foam from wooting, Cardboard
If you cut the cardboard and the puncholes CONSISTENTLY
IT shld be okay
Don't pull the ghetto shit where you do halfway then salvage whatever just redo it entirely
Did someone maybe found an fix to the Raptor HE switches ? In the Faq their is written that you can use the lekker stems but that also has some problems
Yes, the fix for stem swapped Raptors is to use them.
Wear them in.
i heared moleskin is a gamechanger
not much of a different compares to painter/masking tape
you just need less layers with moleskin i think
ok moleskin not that crazy then
how does the 60HE+ compare to the original in terms of value? is it worth upgrading just for the screw in stabs?
Itâs the same, it just supports PCB mounted stabilizers.
so not really worth another few hundred dollars for the change?
Depends, if you have a 60HE currently, you can sell it and buy the 60HE+.
You can get plate mounted stabilizers to sound and feel good but it takes a bit more effort than PCB mounted stabilizers.
Not to me. I've spent too much on my 60HE as it is to cash it out.
Oh no, the point of no return.. đŚ
But I'm still thinking about getting the 80. I just don't know if I want to wait to see if 3rd party cases are ever released
I wouldnât have high hopes for it as a case for the 80HE would be much more complicated, time consuming and therefore expensive to machine. Maybe there will be a case or two but I donât think itâd be possible to beat the die cast Zinc Alloy caseâs price.
Yeah I know. I might just pull the trigger on the black zinc
Can someone give me free gateron jades pls
No
buy it like everyone else brother
im unemployed
there's always a way to make money
has anyone tape modded their module? is it louder?
yes
not lounder deeper
i have and i enjoy it
okay im doing everything i can to reduce the high pitched sounds and ping. the alumaze is way louder than my other board
also the factory lubing on magnetic jades is very inconsistent and bad if anyone wanted to know before slapping them all in the board lol
I hand lubed mine eventually but was quite the opposite experience for me
They were very consistent and I only had 2 switches that were different
Yeah my batch was also very good, I didnât lube mine for awhile
alumaze was the same for me until i got the tofu'
i didnt think it would be that bad but this thing is way louder than my sat75 lol
it's amazing for gaming though
prefer the tofu over the alumaze
idk why
Your Sat75 is top mounted and has a brass weight 
Tofu is heavier and has a bit thicker walls I believe and density has a significant impact on sound resonance.
prolly that yeah, the case is amazing
yeah brass weight is a must when buying that case
yup
uh oh...i just relubed and filmed some other magnetic jades and it sounds way better than the factory lubed ones
back to modding
oh man dont tell me that...
before you do anything too drastic, id say it doesnt affect volume much. it definitely produces a lower pitch
Exactly what I meant. Great example.
HAHAHA
we wish
you could also fill the hole with polyfill or foam, you dont really need the brass weight to get rid of the ping/higher pitched noise
Yeah but doesn't really do the job as well imo
well unless you like the sound of foam
Yeah i learned that lesson thanks in large part to @median spade video
I might switch to the plate foam tho. Rocking no plate foam is a little loud
Also I think the layer of paper tape on the top of the PCB is exaggerating the stem swapped raptor friction problem
Yes
@fluid ravine what exactly did you do to your keyboard
Everything, he did everything. đ¤Ł
@median spade you also have a tofu? How many keyboards do you currently own?
I have 7 keyboards on hand iirc
Gotcha. I think I remember you selling some as well
Yeah that was a while back in oct/nov
Whatâs your favorite one so far? An all arounder
Like for 60he? or my mx stuff
Either one. Curious if youâd still prefer mx switches since they typically have a better typing feel with more options
Oh yeah I still 100% prefer MX as I'm a sound first person and HE doens't sound good
feel wise never really bothered me
But my mx boards also have better mounting experience then 60He so can't really compare
the ones I use daily are gummy oring proper
Gotcha yeah that would make sense. I had a chance to test out a QK65 and it felt really balanced and soft in terms of typing feel. The wooting feels smooth but is much stiffer
Regardless though, the Hall effect switches really steer me towards the wooting. Itâs why I ended up going this route. No regrets đ
Yeah there is only so much you can do with the 60He since it has moutning points to keep pcb/switches close
Yeah exactly
My favorite case so far for my 60he is my frog mini
but it's silver and I don't like to use it for that reason

If it was black I would use it
Haha you know Iâm also not a fan of silver
i wonder if some day there will be a HE board made that has the HE sensors in the switch so there are better mounting options
I purchased a silver plate for my past custom keyboard and really disliked it. I returned it
When I bought teh silver I was like ill use this and like it for sure
that lasted a day
This color scheme grew on me though
hard to say as the whole thing with HE right now is that you need to keep the pcb and switches like air tight
any leeway and it goes haywire
Iâd still choose black over silver but it looks clean
Yeah that combo is nice you shared
I have a silver board I enjoy but it's just to use my navy keycaps on
I usually always steer towards bright colors though
this is my silver board and combo
Hi looks like a good time to ask but in the frog mini, what kind of stabs are you using?
I was using tx ap
Gmk hammerhead?
metropolis with midnight kit
That mousepad matches flawlessly. Is it made to match the set?
those caps look sexy
It is indeed made to match the set
I tried tx AP stabs in the kdbfans fr4 plate for the tofu reduxx and the plate literally would not fit the stabs
what's the cable you're using btw?
a rubber one made by my friend
ahh
This set really reminds me of gmk synthwave. Not the same but reminds me of it
looks good
Where did you guys commision/buy the frog mini plate if I may ask?
i need to find a good cable for my keyboard and am not a fan of coiled
wold like to convert my frog into a wooting
yeah it looks like a guitar cable and i really like that
well if you want a silver one with plates already and are NA lemme know 
Do you have any preferences on straight cables for these keyboards?
Yeah I'm not a fan of coiled myself
I have a silver frog mini as well just without plates 
Iâm somewhat searching around to get a new one. I was aiming for a teal blue, purple if I can add it

But in terms of cables I have no idea where to get any
My friends have always made mine
maybe time to learn how to make cables
Yeah theyâre higher maintenance to keep in good condition and more annoying to move around. I always move my keyboard Iâve noticed
yeah they just look too busy as well
Geez you got some great friends
I looked into making my own set but the materials get pricey đ§
If you add coils or aviators^
Or techflex
i'd definitely do a rubber instrument style cable
Yeah they look good
Love this look
right now I'm just using a basic white one lol
that looks amazing
Is that how much 3ml lube looks like normally?
yeah that looks awesome
ohhh i actually found this on amazon, this looks decent https://www.amazon.com/GentsStride-Durable-Charging-Ultra-Thick-Silicone/dp/B0CHMKW9F4/ref=sr_1_15?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.EAkTxnvRz00hRym5l0MiHgB1_O41yg5FrGuHlvuqnSsWQYoUxpUHQolmp0d3lxD0F7soiuQfUsSfr8UulvpoQe-ng-9l0co6tv9RibeUBX7lWpOv4IWpO9a1cZp31csV9UjClGjeK-NlV0-skvauDqiiue4chtn76lrVAbBfk6oIQSQjym25y5rV4G3EHGSlJgvKnxPou3P1b9FB0CcfF-ezuW65RTc-oz2fLsHEo8k.9qwyf9UK3NJnZISsSpVCaKVMkE5uFD5sLWFkgjyPdCQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=silicone%2Busb%2Bcable&qid=1710094120&sr=8-15&th=1
Actually now that I think about it, if im using pcb mounted stabs like the tx AP on my wooting, would the original geon frog mini plate fit the wooting? not entirely sure what the difference in the custom plate and stock plate is but I figured it was for plate stabs.
hopefully someone knows 
yep
It would not
as you need the standoffs for the moutning points on the pcb
I think I was eying these the other day
yeah the customer images look pretty good, i might cop, just gotta decide what color
Im not sure i understand haha, these standoffs are for? would it not just be pcb, plate foam/silicone and stabs then the plate above
or are they to hold the pcb and plate together
standoffs to attach pcb to plate on 60he
or else the distance is inconsistent and causes issues
Ahhh okay makes sense thanks
https://cafege.com.au/products/frog-mini-he-plates?variant=44643481354485
wonder if these fit screw-ins/clip-ins 
Board: Wooting 60HE
GH60 Aluminum Tofu V1 Clone
Gummy mount (Bakeneko60 30a oring)
Lekker 60 (Switch Tape Modded and Lubed with Krytox 205g0)
TX AP Stabilizers (Light coat of krytox 205g0 on stem and housing | Dieletric Grease on wire)
PC Plate
No Plate foam
Switch Pad (Poron .5mm)
Tempest Tape Mod (1 Layer Masking Tape)
Polyfill
Glorious GPBT Nebula Keycaps
My current board rn
Sry I was at skool
Don't ask
Lmk if you have any questions
idk if youre au
but if NA hypekeyboards has a great file for it
did you guys have to wire balance tx ap stabs?
Yeah switch pads and switch tape probably the biggest game changers there
But then definitely a sum of all the parts
is switch pad and filming worth it on the jades?
is there really that much of a diff between switch pads and the pe poron foam the module comes with?
Switch pads are between the switch and the PCB
So yes
But they can mess with tolerances so care
isnt pe foam in between the switch and the pcb?
i mean the plate foam
i meant the plate poron foam vs switch pads
Plate foam is between the plate and the PCB with cutouts for the switches
Switch pads are between the switch and PCB
pretty different
oh ok
tbh I dont even know if the switch pads do anything, when i recieved them from a few months ago, i forgot to do a before and after sooo yeah
overall typing on this sounds pretty good, pressing the keys individually, its aight. Prob only bc i did alot to them
damn lmao thats alot
I put very little for mine
Since im using it with stock foam
its not even raised by that much which is surprising in a way
Usually it would be the switches being fully exposed
Yeah thatâs what I thought too lol
anyone willing to chill with me in discord will i try to build im struggling đ
any reason why you didn't do burger mount
if u do burger mount will if make it so that you have to put less polyfill cuz less space
I wonder if those keycaps have recessed stems or not which would affect their height. GMK for example on the left the stems are a bit lower and sinks into the case
what did u use to burger mount?
lettuce, tomato, beef patty, bacon, mayo
i dont need the plate to test stabs right just put the switch on the pcb?
The reason why I didn't do burger mount anymore is because it's tedious to do. I also tend to take in and out my keyboard as I'm a fking addict to modding keyboards back then. When I switched to gummy mount, it saved me alot of time and I also found some advantages to the mounting style and benefits of the sound change comparing to tray mount. For example, a thing I learned was tray mounting has dead spots throughout the keyboard meaning that some keys in a certain area sound much different from other areas. Gummy Mount/Friction Mount however balances out the sound profile throughout the keeb. You may noticed that each row has a different pitch than the others, but that's normal. Plus gummy mount also isn't as stiff as tray mount ofc so theres that.
Kind of annoying you have to source the standoffs elsewhere, given the whole kit with case and plate includes those standoffs
is this image your source?
if so what row is it
ima send a pic of one of mines
nah not mine, I only just learnt that it was an actual thing recently
Hypekeyboards has them on hand 
Like 99% of people shouldnât buy from that vendor anyways as they are Australia
ok lemme check
yeah, I was more thinking of aussie buyers who may or may not enjoy shipping fees that cost more than the actual product
Fair point
what's a good mod to make the spacebar a little quieter?
No seperated stab sound test?
hol up lemme record one
Definitely non-recessed but hard to tell if lower stems would make much of a difference, maybe slightly
it just sounds extremely rattly, you should prob tune your stabs
is that what i'm hearing?
im new to modding keyboards so the ear is not trained yet
stabs im running currently is the factory lubed 60he+ screw in ones
Yo I was extremely surprised with how thin and flimsy the PC plate was
On a separate note
does this sound like it has rattle?
no
yeah whatever pc wooting using is on the cheaper side for sure
It's much more flimsy and thin then any of my mx stuff
hold on now, is there any other pc i could use on the module??
just custom cut ones from people like hypekeyboards, etc
is that what you recommend?
I have pom myself
creamy? eat something that contains a lot of air
bro can u just stfu
if you'd have asked nicely then maybe
So I got bored and wanted to compare how different the keycaps would sound between mine and wootingâs
I had kilmat in my white spacebar
wooting's spacebar has nothing in it at all
sounds pretty sad...damn
with wooting's keycaps it's louder for sure
all recorded with crappy iphone X
if you already have pc then that's usually the go to for that
da creamy
what plate? As alphas still sound similar but then the spacebar awful
weird the spacebar sounds so bad in comparison
wooting spacebar is pretty hollow
although my spacebar still wouldn't sound as bad without any kilmat in it
too be fair
My wooting keycaps have 0 use on them
I got my wooting, swapped switches to south facing, and put gmk on first day so I wouldn't know 
lmao this is the first time that i'm actually using the wooting keycaps đ
when I first received the wooting I typed on it for 5 seconds
and then went straight to modding it
to be honest tho I kind of do dig the sound (except for the spacebar)
I find it more satisfying

no time to use stock and only modding
i was very burnned out on keyboards at time so swapping orientation and keycaps was all I had in me
plus this was very ealry batches where no one had really lubed them and said it wasn't wo;rth it
Sleeper wooting (pcb is totally not very high up)
damn I could've just rocked this instead of buying the case and keycaps đ
but then again...aesthetics
How does it aound that good
Damn that sound great lol
I have a lot of mods on it but it's mainly the switch tape mod that mades it sound good since it removes the "chatter"
if you want to do it here's how
#1173784544529363034 message
Do these 250w thunderbolt 4 cables account for wooting performance or is it risky?
jeez, fix that link https://www.amazon.com/GentsStride-Durable-Charging-Ultra-Thick-Silicone/dp/B0CHMKW9F4/
oml are you using gummy? that raise đ
errr possibly yes
the usb fits tho ;D
it is indeed the mix
all I did was transfer everything over to the stock case
xd
Yo what sounds fair to sell a stock Wooting that comes with a PC plate for?
Including shipping

heh 175
idk how to price shi
wthh I would sell my wooting for atleast 300usd with stock case and keycaps (with mods)
@polar girder You have everything right?
like box and everything stock except plate?
everything used in a certain way?
Have you seen the flippers' pricing of the Viper Mini SE? Last time I checked they were 900+aud
Like gtfo
Yeah but clean AF
id say 180
Normal price. Ships now and comes with PC plate. But used.
đ
PC plate unused lol
but like instant shipping!!
But yeah
good as new tho
200+ usd đ
180-200
đŤ
ÂŻ_(ă)_/ÂŻ
Yeah for sure
where you gonna sell?
I gotta fix these gd raptors tho
Probably HWS or mechmarket
Reddit and discord
Piece of shit lol
damn wth happened with the esc and tab key
that's -50$
wow
is it also a wooting?
so basically you have 2 wootings in your hands rn o.o
Overlubed mby
The whole franken raptor thing I think is the magnet stem part in the housing
And the paper tape fks that even more
Take off keycaps and use the space bar groove to pull it out while upside down
Is what I do
mines just slides out :D
@fluid ravine did I do you proud, papa?
does that have to do with type of gummy oring used?
Too bad the SoB isnât really functional tho haha
Probz
Honestly I was able to use the regular one with screw ins
But also didnât use plate foam
Might have to swap to the small if I put foam back in
The small ring was swimming and useless
not bad 
and why papa đ
lol cuz you the keyboard guru
Quick question: is it time to switch my gmmk pro space bar morandi linear switch, cuz it randomly doesn't response (it lived through agresively spamming while I was running up the stairs in Minecraft)
Respect on the name
If it's hotswap try another switch
What kind of responding are you talking about?
Physical or input
If it's input then change it out for another switch
if its physical, check on the stabs, keycaps, etc
nope
should be inside
like the other areas
Insert it slowly, check all sides and make sure the oring goes in
you can use a spatula to tug it in
Yep, i will prob swap for more durable and with faster response time, and with good sound
Iâm not sure if you can tell from the pic but is it bulging out too much
Iâm using tx ap screw ins
thats normal
its bc of the stabs
just push it in
you can slide in the buttom side first, then tug in the oring and slowly push the top side in
spatula worked very well for me to keep the oring in place as i was sliding the plate in
Cuz for gaming morandi linears which have 2.4mm actuacion point, are basicly beter just for typing (I will prob switch all the switches that I use the most for gaming ( W, A, S, D, Shift, Ctrl, Spacebar, Q, E, C, T, Esc, Enter.)
Start from top to bottom, most preferably at the port
make sure the north/top side of the module's oring is fully tucked, which should be easy as yo're sliding the hwole thing in
ahh true
Then push in both sides at the same time, again make sure its inserted. Once you slowly push in the oring push down the module as you insert.
Sry for separating the instructions
Dad needs help grilling
Gimme a moment for the last part
Any good videos? You recommends. Iâve been kinda trying that. But with this case and stabs not sure if itâs diff person to person. Iâm using s o rings 40 a
Closest I got it this last thing started jutting out đ
Huh why is a whole piece sticking out like that
Which ring?
I had a video but it's old
Can't possibly find it
i can make on after dinner
;p
I think I got it does this look good
Graveshift small o ring 40a
ay you got it!
dw abt top right, its not sticking out
đ i cant wait to see you struggle to get it out when you want to change the foam underneath
just buldging out a little bit cus of the stabs
using plate foam?
No
thats good
should be easy then
to take in and out
just need practice now
but you're good to go
np
nah you will be fine, its really easy. again just need practice
for me its the opposite, cause i dont want to scratch it when i pull it out and my nail is too thin to grab hold to the plate
i plan on trying with no foam, silicone foam, poron foam, then trying tempest mod, then trying out switch pads. soooo
im going to be pulling this in and out a bunch lol
@fluid ravine i shouldnt be putting on keycaps when its inside? im scared of putting more force in, those stand offs are there, will they hurt the pcb?
Haha I shall get from hypekayboards then, I reside in Singapore and I figured au might be closer and hence cheaper but somehow the shipping costs more to ship from aus than NA 
What happaned to the left stab was fine before
or maybe its the right stab
idk
the wire got unclipped from the stab somehow
Case foam or plate foam?
Were you trying to take out the spacebar keycap?
wdym
lubing my stabs helped the sound of the keys a lot
factory lubing def left something to be desired
Late response but just because it's a straight cable I would think it would work just fine even with tachyon mode enabled
@harsh dove and @median spade https://novelkeys.com/products/salvation-keyboard?variant=43322546716839 - Wilba Tech Salvations are currently priced at $285. They've dropped in price a bit
Seems they are temporarily out of stock but not too bad compared to their usual $370
Think heâs counting stock is why
Hmm, Salvun website has officially sold out of Soul Black as well
Makes me want to order a black case before they fully stop selling them
plate foam
im not sure but i fixed it
Silicone is not gonna work
oh why
its too hard
you need it to compress for the oring to insert into module
also does tempest tape mod make it really hard to take apart the pcb?
and the palte
no?
oh ok
i mean like do you put keycaps on while its o ring mounted?
i was scared if i kept pushing it more into the case those tray mount standoffs would dig into the pcb or something but maybe it cant get that far
sure its fine
like wont i have to remove the tape every time, to rescrew the pcb to the plate?
nah
just poke holes for the screw
gotcha thaks
Fun to compare the two lol
The black PC plate is goated
Albeit a bit thin for my liking
Steel plate thickness so nice
Thin?
1.5mm
Steel looks to be the exact same thickness.
same thickness yeah
Maybe he meant that steel was more stiff over PC.
I mean thatâs definitely true but Iâm mind blown if theyâre the same thickness lol
The black PC so flimsy
More thin than my white one
Unless Iâm tripping
They are, steel is just a lot stiffer.
Like I second guess if it was the plate lol
Theyâre from the same mold.. đ
lol Iâll clean it first
+$50
has anyone tried any of the new aftermarket switch options? curious to hear opinions on them (ie gateron jades, geon raptors, etc...)
Hey what could i do to make my 2he's spacebar less rattly
Tune its stabilizers.
Balance wires and relube. Shouldnât be hard to get them out as theyâre plate mounted stabilizers I believe.
You could also fill it more with lube using a syringe, that requires less deconstruction so to say. đ
sounds like an idea
it's not bad i just feel like it could be improved
thought about adding foam to it
If you have Krytox 205 and a syringe already itâll be easy and fast.
i have none of that
You could also do that but if itâs the stabilizers that are rattling foam is most likely not going to help much.
I'm sorry if i sound really dumb i aint gonna lie i had a bit too much to drink tonight but
Ah, oh well. Maybe check if itâs the stabilizers rattling in the plate or if itâs the wire rattling in the stabilizer. If you know how to.
How do i tell rhe difference
I just had this idea pop into my head
Like when i slam my spacebar it sounds a little hollow/rattly compared to my other keys
Hmm, if itâs hard to differentiate the sound you could try to hold the stabilizer housing with tweezers and if the rattle is gone youâll know itâs the stabilizer rattling in the plate.
Sounds like an idea
Yeah, itâs very common.
And then i can decide whether to add foam or not
Or lube the stabs
I did keep the stock spacebar as i thought it looked nice to keep a black space bar rest of my keycaps besides the f keys are pbt keycaps i got from drop
I guess i could swap the key out and test for sound
Foam not so much, but then you could put a tiny piece of tape on the plate next to the stabilizer to stop it from rattling.
They do feel more rigid than the stock keycaps
You could do that yeah.
The stock keycaps that cam e with the 2HE were ABS iirc.
I got the PBT ones
Oh alright.
Using purple drop skylight pbt keycaps except for my spacebar f keys/enter keys
I like the look of the black on the spacebar but my drop keycap does sound better
Looks nice. I do see that you wonât be able to take the stabilizers out or put tape there without unscrewing the entire board (I did not know).
Well, tape might still be possible.
I did not know you couldnât take out the stabilizers on the 2HE.
Thatâs a bummer.
So tape/foam is my best option?
Yeah, tape. @stray tiger had a picture of tape in between the plate and stabilizer to potentially reduce the rattle. He might still have it.
A picture explains it better than text.
Yep hopefully @stray tiger sees it tommorow and posts it that'd be helpful
đ
If heâs not too busy Iâm sure he will.
He already had it posted before but I canât find it.
Thought it was in #đŞâmodding_faq but sadly not.
Well thanks for trying i appreciate it
Yw!
Honestly tho i'm too inebriated tonight to do anything on the spot
I just happened to think about it
đ
Haha, all good man. Your keyboard wonât walk away all of the sudden. Hopefully not at least.
The cat will steal it from me
She loves the wooting wristrest
đđ
XD
I saw the cat hairs!!

đđż
