#🔧│keyboard_modding
1 messages · Page 167 of 1
Ok just making sure I have it all 🙂 Thanks
Gonna post a sound test?
I have not, GMK set?
No sir
What did you end up going with?
Looks super clean, I really like it
Yeah, its really nice, I like it so far
The color theme plays well with the black case for sure
Good luck
Do you have a switch opener?
Ooo, that's gonna make it quite a bit more challenging. Respect to you
@harsh dove did you add leaf springs on these corners as well?
Nah
So for the wooting did you only end up using 2 screws to hold in the PCB/plate? Or was there more screws you maybe added?
Just two
Oh wow
what kind of tape should i use and how many layers for tape mod?
masking tape and 3 layers
got it ty
i just finished lubing and bandaid modding my spacebar, it still sounds very rattly someone please help
Worth it?
will using a coiled cable ruin performance?
wdym eiuther works or doesnt
Literally what I said.
If you are experiencing your keyboard pressing random keys and opening programs, then you came to the right video. The issue is usually caused by an instable amount of voltage entering the board. Follow along to see what you can do about it.
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Our cables are rated to work. Can't guarantee it with third party cables.
Slap a layer of tape on the inside of your space bar keycap…it made mine sound night and day better
yo guys my stock wooting is coming in a few days. what mods should i do to it which is pretty easy
lube it tape mod it foam mod it
what kinda tape shld i use
masking tape or painters tape
alright thanks
i'm desperate finding out why my ISO sounds so different compared to my ANSI... They're built the exact same way, yet there are worlds between their sound profiles. Maybe someone can help me out? @stray tiger

1st one in the sound sample is the ANSI
Keycaps are different. It appears. Doubleshot vs dyesub. Cherry profiles vs OEM. That's a good start
caps are different
inner shot on the doubleshots is not PBT afaik
different cap thickenss
and different profile obv
He didn't need me, you guys are on it too 🙂

she*
also you might have screwed in one harder than the other one
can make a surprisingly large difference on some boards
but anyways, so ds PBTs can do a thockier sound it seems
definitely not. Just reassembled both
Anything to share about how they are hand lubed? And how long did it take?
I didn't ask but same plate, same stabs, etc?
Yep
everything is the exact same, even the mounting. The only differences are the keycaps and layout
Then yeah that's got to be it. I saw the yellow strap and thought maybe it was the 60HE and still had the steel plate.
Alumaze, PC plate, module, burger mounted, 3 layers of tape mod, case foam, plate foam, hand lubed
Do you prefer the sound of the one with the cherry keycaps?
personally the PBT keycaps sound by far better and less rattling
They are thicker and better quality for sure.
explains why it sounds by far more solid
which ones are the pbt? the yellow and black one or the black and white one?
black and white
kk thanks
All the wires should be interchange/compatible across most brands
Inside and outside are PBT Mansen stated.
inside is a pbt blend
which is most likely fine durability wise
will just end up sounding a bit different that regular pbt caps
PBT is not transparent.
You’re sure?
For keycaps like ours, POM is used for the letterings.
basically what mansen said
The "outer" layer of the keycap is PBT, except for the lettering. Then a second layer is added in transparent POM to fill out the lettering for each keycap.
Hmm, I’m quite sure you said otherwise before but maybe I’m imagining things.
"virgin" (so pure) PBT is a lot more opaque, in something relativley cheap like keycaps you would have a lower grade one
in which case it would be even more opaque
so it would look more like a very milky white
where you can just see a hint of the lighting shining through
I see
the PBT POM blend is a lot more transparent while also being more chemically resistant than something like ABS
and not being quite as brittle as just POM
They are factory lubed on the stem rails and bottom housing already and it’s pretty good tbh , I went ahead and lubed all the bottom housings again with 205g0 and stems and then also did springs in SuperLube Oil and did the top housings
I think we talked about this when discussing translucent with a clear inside keycap set.
The blend can never be as clear as ABS right?
Took like 3 hrs
afaik, no
if you want clear caps go ABS or PC
Definitely
Lubed your Jades?
Yessir
Def worth it
Factory is still pretty consistent like I said before but hand lube just makes em sound and feel much better to me
Just hand lubed stem ? Or you did top and bottom
And lubing the springs removed the spring ping
I did everything , bottom, top housing, stem and springs
Nice
sound test where now? 👀
comparison if possible
bro is about to open 61 keys manually without the help of a switch opener 💀
I pray for you along with the switches that get damaged along the way 🙏
Yeah I need to make one
what did you think oif the top housing difference?
I like mine al ot now but am curious
@median spade
I’m trying to make my keyboard sound creamy, does any lube work?
Or does the sound depend more like on the switch, I’m currently using Lekker
I think it helped a lot
both, use 205g0 for switches
you give up on creamy is first thing, and then use 205g0
HE can't be creamy as it stands currently
Pretty much how I feel tbh
Can make if foamy tho if you add enough foam

Mine or Thockson's is pretty close to creamy
it could be better tho
will get cerakeys when white crazed drops >:v
Idk if I've heard yours in awhile but yeah idk how Thockson got his board to sound like that lol
I know it's a mixture of things like polyfill and switch tape mod etc
sorry for fan noises lel
fan noises good
makes audio more accruate to environment
if this was done with proper mic and not phone
used hyper x quadcast to record it
prettyh creamy tho nice
Dang now I am tempted to handlube all mine. Get it more consistent
It's been years but I do have some 205 left
Haha this board is my gaming kb end game so migth as well
wooting is my first gaming keyboard and optical(?) keyboard
and I've invested so much in it so might as well make it my endgame gaming keyboard lol
Well you Def did it right without spending $$ tinkering with customs
Went down that rabbit hole during covid. Lol
Saw how bad it impacted my wallet
hmmm sounds sort of pingy
def does have that signature he sound still
but sound better than most 🙂
and yeah does need tuning
and you just reminded me that i have to retune my backspace
With GMK ABS caps
personal preference but I like the pbt ones more
Yeah me too
although I do like the gmk spacebar tho
only this set specifically tho lol
i mean yeah those pbt keycaps are clean
Yeah those were tx ap clips and I had those tuned way better
these screws in, I did very lazy tbh lol
Yeah lol
I ruined my enter key stabs because the enter key still had hot glue on it and it dripped into the stabs 🗿
so now I'm just using my broken enter key (side stems broke) without stabs
I think these are plate mount stabs in this one
Damn
I think this one has the least amount of that signature he sound which is pretty good
Lol someone else said it sounds like a regular keyboard
idk if that was a good or bad thing
almost 👀
maybe good? cause mechanical switches def sound better than he switches
Right yeah
I didn't know if he meant regular as in walmart keyboard or like regular custom sounding board
Do I need to lube the stabilizers too or the springs? Or is it optional
Lastly, KS20u x Alumaze @quiet bay
lubing anything is optional, but if you want the board to sound "better" then you should
Ok
I luckily stayed on top but spent so much 
FInally sold 11 boards back in november that were in my closet for almost 2 years
This one’s leaning to a thockier sound 👀
Lol yeah
I like the sound of alumaze better but the feel on the salvation is probably way nicer 🤔
I usually like deeper sounding keyboards anyway so its subjective
Yeah I prefer them in the Alumaze but I like rocking the Salvation
I would rock the Salvation too because of its clean thicc sides 🤤
Pause
I really like the alumaze case but can't stand the minute you add the foam or any sound dampening it raises assempbly up and you can see bottom of keycaps/top of switches
This bothered me too
It's my biggest gripe with a lot of cases out there
they design with sound dampening but then not the space it feels so makes the assembly go up

Uhhhh 🗿
Yeah lol
Looks like when someone has braces and they smile
That’s how the alumaze makes it look
tbh I don't mind it as long as it doesn't look like a apex pro mini
Wait that's insanely (being dramatic) high
All for the sake of sound 🙏
Fr
And the death of the keeb
Jk
(͡°͜ʖ͡°)
Bout to do recordings for my team camp skit 
Gotta luv skool
I swear everyday you have school .-.
I do lmao
rip 🙏
im lucky my klippe t has a big cutout for my usb lol
Fr
Imagine u have a redux and that happens 😅
thats rough, my pcb is centred perfectly on my fjell with oring mount and 2 layers of foam
wth
how the hell
oh well
the height doesn't bother me anyways
Now I have to run home and take a picture of my port 
Found pictures before I did gummy mount and switch tape mod o.o
It’s alot lower alright LMAO
I think it's mainly the gummy mount that's adding height
the polyfill didn't do much
hi guys, I read some comments explaining that the tofu redux case attracts a lot of fingerprints, is this true? I was more suited for a generic anodized black but at this point I would focus more on an e-coating meteorite gray if is really true.
They do pick-up fingerprints pretty easily. If you want to reduce them, that's a good idea.
Surprisingly just noticed that my enter is semi-wobbly with jades and default screw-in, space bar is okay so I don’t understand stupid ali keycaps 😂
Meteorite gray - no fingerprints observed so far
the fancy setup with the rando plastic bottle is a vibe
Gotta stay hydrated 
it's just that it's not dripped out like the rest
seeing this pics im tempted to put the module barebone no foam no nothing directly into the case
poron over silicone for the module?
all preference
use both and see what you like
true just seeing ppls opinion. I wish i could test them but im still waiting for my tofu 60 redux to come in 😦
i just want ti finally put my wooting together LOL
I don't have module but I use poron
I use the silicone if I do use one as I prefer the sound of it
for deeper sound and also because gummy mount can't fit with silicone because it's too stiff
from sound test i think i prefer poron but i stilll want to test both
lmao tbh when I first received my wooting I didn't even test drive it first
I just went straight to modding
poron is more "foamy" sounding and silicone is cleaner if I had to describe
My wooting is so close to a creamy mechanical keyboard sound 👀
did you already try pe foam
I did a long time ago
sound test?
makes sense
so it interfered with the switches
ive been satisfied ever since i lubed the top housing of myu jades
gave up on any nicer case for my wooting and just threw it back into my tofu 
On the brightside I like the salvation a lot for mech switches so Im ade a build in it
glad I only paid $140 lol
lucky deal
is there a reason you did klippe and not tofu btw?
Well uh
Tofu Redux wasn't a thing at the time
I like klippe back when internal weight tofu didn't exist but I think the redux is a lot better now
Ah
Tofu v1 was gone
yep that was what I was guessing haha
and I liked the klippe t in general
also I don't know if my usb would fit in the tofu redux now lmao
Of all the boards Iv'e had (too many) my klippe T with silent linears back in the day was siltl one of my faves
fair point 
@median spade @quiet bay do u guys have any recommendations on what lube I should use for my springs and stabilizer
I already got a lube for my switches
Hand lubed jades sound very nice
Only took about 2hr 15 for a batch of 70 no regrets
i use gpl 106 fo rmy springs but you can use super lube off amazon and then dielectric grease for stabilizer
did you do top housing too? made a world of difference when i did
not i didnt . I did get a coat on the whole stem with 205 and then bag lubed the springs with 105
it technically should cover the housing too if you go all around the stem imo, but if youre that meticulous about it, its already pretty different
cause the default factory lube only has it on the rails
yeah i was trying to solve the HE rattle/upstroke sound
and that did it for me
i normally never touch top housing when lubing switches as it's too much most times but this one time i was my savior
wonder if the dual rails on the KS-20U more or less solve the rattle? can't really hear the rattle in audio samples that I've seen but could just not be picked up
the thing with video recordings, i dont hear as much of the pinginess and rattle on my videos but in person its very apparent. I d imagine if i do another sound test with my lubed jades the video probably dont do it much justice esp with a phone mic
it is still there as confirmed by cam
ah dang
a lot of it is the cheap ass top housing that gateron is using on these switches
its the pc top housing from their budget mech switches it drives me nuts
sounds awful on those ones too btw
but it's clear and good for rgb which most of the population getting into HE are gamers and do not care about sound
yeah need a decent condensor mic to show it well
my mic picks it up when i was testing the salvation and such
I used 205g0 to lube my switch and springs
I used molykote from wooting to lube my stab wires and used 205g0 for the stem and housing of the stabs
just recorded with my blue snowball
tofu acrylic with brass weight, and i used the wooting case foam + gummy oring 40A
Killer sunset today.
where is that
Utah
What a view
Anyone have a suggestion for long-pole screw-in stabs that are compatible with pc plate?
Cam said the TX AP ones worked for him but a few others have said they dont.
I tried their clip-in, didn’t work for me
You think it might be worth trying their screw-ins?
I would assume the housings would be pretty similar
There arent a lot of choices for long pole stabs so its slim picking
Yeah, oh well, might try tx ap again, just to be sure, because with current feel of enter and shift, I’m tempted to just put a lekker there
I'm a little confused, how would screw-ins not be compatible with a plate? are the holes just not large enough?
I'd probably just file them if that's the case
Man was not expecting to see random west lake 
shhh
Oh I know
I grew up in Utah my whole life haha
But we are moving to Colorado next actually funny enough
More North tho is where I was
North of SLC or north of Utah county?
Both in my time
I lived in Ogden, Layton, Bountiful, SLC, and Draper/Herriman before I moved
when you did the top housing did you do the whole perimeter around the stem or just the rail? so far (albeit only 5) feels like the whole perimeter is needed for handling rattle
(although i'm still on the lekkers)
Didn’t mind it but yeah it was out there and Bangerter sucks lol
Every face on top housing
Well, I would prefer something that doesn't require sanding.
That's fair, but all mx stabs are the same size, so if one type doesn't fit, it's not because that type is special. it's because the tolerances on the hole are just slightly off and should probably be sanded anyway
Ive never modded a keyboard before but I am wondering if itd be possible to make a Wooting sound like this?
Imho ive never heard a more soothing keyboard. I love this so much
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NgKJIMyz9kI&t=268s
Maybe all Id have to do is add the keycaps to the Wooting for that sound demonstrated in the above video?
before spending $150 on ceramic caps, consider lubing lol
Not really possible for now due to switch limitations
You can get a wooting more thocky though, but it won’t quite reach that level
lubing is a good idea, but it doesn't change the sound very much
oh ok, well, Ill try lubing thx
do u all lube the keyboard when its brand new out of the box? Thought it comes pre lubed
factory lube usually isn't super consistent (on many switches, I do not mean that as a dig at wooting or gateron who makes the stock switches)
and there's some tuning you can do based on how much you use
gotcha, ya, I recently watched a video from Wootings youtube channel where they go into detail about lubing and I remember they suggested the quantity of lube application depends on what youre going for iirc
Looks easy enough I shouldnt fk it up, thx
To get that sound? It would require alot of tuning and experimenting tbh
and also with lekkers? well uhh unless you do a time consuming mod with them it won't sound nearly as good as that
because if you think about it cerakeys will only make the sound deeper
it won't make the signature he sound disappear by itself
forgot to say that this will also be hard to come close to as they are different layouts
Maybe HE will sound that good one day (probably never)
Yes, the holes are too tight for Staebies and TX’s AP PCB Mounted stabilizers to fit properly. Sanding or cutting the hole wider resolves the issue. The reason some experience the issue and other don’t is to do with the PC deforming. If the PC doesn’t deform, the stabilizer housing will be forced at an angle causing friction between its stem and housing. The more it deforms the less friction there will be to a point where it’s not noticeable. Also, the more room a stabilizer stem has in its housing the less deformation is required to make them functional. 👍
https://discord.com/channels/167181566978555904/1202064549092794378
The plate was designed with plate mounted stabilizers in mind, not PCB mounted stabilizers. The plate is both for the 60HE and 60HE+ so I presume they wanted the plate mounted stabilizers to fit tightly at the cost of other PCB mounted stabilizers.
should probably tag the people who asked the questions instead of me who knows this, but it’s good knowledge nonetheless
Yo
Are u talking about these?
@quiet bay
Ye 205g0
It only says switch lubricants tho
Is it also used for lubing springs?
Or stabilizers?
Yeah you can lube springs with it
Also possible
It gives you options
Cuz I just ordered that one
Not really, it is recommended to have thicker lube for stab wires but some people do prefer it with 205g0
Okay
I’ll just use the one I ordered them
For all my switches and springs and stabilizers
overall just personal preference
none of them got damage
Seeing all the messages in this channel I'm really not sure about whether I should go with the Raptors or the Jades. I like it thockier. I have the tofu redux with foam+tape+o-ring mount. Any advice?
today i receive my gmk WOB
and i just need to wait my tofu 60 redux and raptor he switch and mod my keyboard and finish
Nice
https://divinikey.com/products/gateron-ink-v2-stabilizers-screw-in
Is it a good option for wooting 60he+?
Gateron Ink V2 Stabilizers are constructed with the same material as their popular Ink Black Switches. Coming in a set including 4 2U stabilizer, 1 6.25U stabilizer, 1 7U wire, these stabilizers are PCB mount, screw-ins with a conscientious attention to quality. Gateron Ink Stabilizers V2 Feature: Housing: Gateron Ink
sounds not lubed
Finding one that fits, buying it and swapping it.
https://wooting-technologies.notion.site/de7a52e2b5a941258a17e448b0c9d9b0?v=5ec0b31c59db4a51b8a86a1288249e9f
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PsRcYxZgBCo
Submit or request a review of a case by adding a comment or posting on discord
The 60HE Module is compatible with any universal 60% case that followed the GH60 standards. This is how to safely swap out the 60HE into another case.
Our own Alumaze60 case: https://wooting.io/product/alumaze60
Supported Custom case list: https://wooting-technologies.notion.site/de7a52e2b5a941258a17e448b0c9d9b0
00:00 Intro
00:24 removing the ...
someone too shy to say it here said that
does it make it souind better
and is there a way to do it cheaply or nahb
huh
that dont even make sense but alr
not my words
wdym by that "someone too shy to say it here said that"
my screnshot is from my dms
someone saw that screenshoted your msg and sent that to me
LMAO
lil bro is too shy ><
thx thx ><
Did you only lube the housings, or did you put some additional grease on the wire?
Usually you want to add some dialectic grease or similar to the wire, just enough that it stops rattling. Add a little bit at a time so you don’t add too much (the stab will get slow and mushy if there’s too much). A small flat-tip needle on a syringe can be useful for adding more since you can get it down inside the housing without taking the whole thing apart
Yeah and also you can get plate mounted stabs to sound as good as screw in stabs, it’s just tuning stabs takes time and patience
how many layers of tape should i put on my woot
1-3
i took off my tape after lubing my jades, so marbly without it
0
because tape mod is overrated
Factory lube is good and hand lube is even better
i saw a reddit post about just lubing the stems is that true?
Does anyone know if it is worth it to get a PC or POM plate for the 60HE? I think the current metal plate really isn't that bad, but would PC or POM have a deeper quieter sound? Also, how do I make some keys not sound so loud and clacky compared to the rest? My A key is clacking a lot more than the other keys.
PC would lead to a deeper sound
different parts of the keyboard = different sound
also could be that the lube is inconsistent
most likely the lube being the case
I had a keyboard with a PC plate using Gateron Pro Yellow switches and it sounded a lot more poppy and less dense than what the 60HE sounds like? Maybe it was the case playing a part into the sound.
depends on the foam, switches, and case being used pretty much
even the keycaps play a part
Do you know what else I can do to make it sound deeper? Maybe some tape on the bottom of the PCB? And the space bar does rattle a bit, so I did the band-aid mod, but it didn't seem to do too much to fix the ping and rattle; that might have to do with the metal plate though.
I would check if the wire is balanced first since the spacebar wire is the most susceptible to bending
Anyone know if there is a video I can hear of the stock vs lubed jades
There's a post on Reddit about that. The lubed Jades really don't sound too much better than stock. The Lekkers actually sounded a lot better lubed and filmed.
Here
@untold wigeon
That one is lubed, and then scroll down you'll see unlubed jades
I forgot
I think he's using a pc plate tho
If youre opening them up to lube, lube the springs, top housing, stems and rails.
not even lubing the springs is crazy o.o
If I were to add film to my Lekker switches, what would be the best thickness?
Hi Cam, Are you using any foam or tape?
Don't recommend, waste of money and time
Is lubing them even worth it?
What switches?
Lekker
I mean hand lubing will always be much better than factory lubing as you know how much consistency you will be applying on the switc
So yes lubing is worth it
Alright. But what I really want to fix is my space bar rattle. Do you know a good way to fix that, or is it just the plate mount stabilizers limiting it?
It will tighten top housing, but depending on what material it is, it might make it clackier in my case
I see
(I used tx films but dont use them anymore)
i thought it was because the factory lube was good enough already or something.
tbh I’d say factory lube is kinda inconsistent
https://divinikey.com/products/tx-ap-stabilizers-rev-4?variant=40406837461057 is this the stabs everyone recommends?
Recommended to have the screw in version since it has better tolerances and less mods required
ok ty
idk if it works with gummy mount tho if someone else can clarify that
But only the 60HE+ keyboards support screw in stabs right? I have a regular 60HE, but could I just get a plate with screw in stab support and get stabilizers, or would that not work?
Would not work.
Im assuming that he has the screw in support and now I should probably ask
They mount into the PCB, not the plate. That's why plate mounted stabs are called that. Screw in and clip in rely on the PCB having mounts for it.
Oh yeah, right.
You do have the 60He+ right?
yea thats what im getting
alr good then the stabs will work
here is a comment i saw on youtube about the gummy o ring mount/
personally the switch pads dont really do anything, some of the other community modder agrees that they cant even tell what difference it makes but we pretty much just leave it in. (although i recently took it out after swapping to the he+ module, since i saw the switch pad being mashed in between the switches and pcb
as for the stab pads, usually we dont mod stabilizers in the way whereby "if they ain't broken, dont fix it" so yeah, the he+ module screw in stabs feel really good and i dont think they need any fixing.
for the gummy oring friction mount, you are still able to oring mount it, you're only required to swap out the backspace and spacebar stabs. personally im running tx-ap clip-ins on the he+ module while the spacebar is the stock screw-in and it works for me. (im on the tofu redux) -gravity test and it doesnt fall out too.
so i think he used the clip ins. but if i use the screw ins i can use those stabs for everythihng including space bar ?
the screw in one?
Yeah
BUT
i dont know if its compatible with gummy mount
is the real question
ohh
but the stock screw in one is compatible with the gummy o ring mount?
since tthats what he did
idk, I dont have screw in support
let me ping someone else since I think he tested
@harsh dove
looks like he only did it on the spacebar
I do wish I had screw in support to test ;-;
right he only did on spacebar and backspace. but we are not sure if we do screw in for everything the o ring mount will work got it thanks.
I thought he said full screw in gummy mount worked for him
I could be tripping
With that new Small Ring
I intend to try it out when I find the time to swap these screw-ins to the black pc plate ☠️
Also have to lube and tune them which I’ve never done so I’m sort of scared/avoiding it lol
@quiet bay whats is molykote tape?
I said molykote tape on accident once before 😂
My other channel where I review movies with my wife: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCcquJgDgH22voRTs4Krmi2g
I spent a long time experimenting and researching to find a method of eliminating the obnoxious "ticking" that can happen on some stabilizer keys. When I found success, I wanted to create a short tutorial for others who may have the sam...
Thanks for watching, please consider subscribing!
This video goes over how to mod your mechanical keyboard stabilizers. The mods shown work on both plate mount and pcb mount stabilizers (eg. durock stabilizers, everglide stabilizers, genuine cherry stabilizers.) It also goes over how to lube your stabilizers if you cant remove them.
Stabilize...
The Small O Rings from Graveshift work with Screw Ins
Don't need any clip ins
I will say it varies from case to case though
I got it to work on the Alumaze
But doesn't mean it guaranteed to work on the Tofu or an Acrylic case, etc
This is a great video from the modding FAQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxHb6CJc9V8
Here is how I mod my stabilizers. I get asked this a lot of my streams and honestly, I figured why not just record this so I can link this video instead of having to re-explain it every time. I hope you enjoy it. Please remember this video is only covering lubing and installing, some stabs like cherry clip-ins, you'll need to clip the bottom leg...
In that video, no foam, 1 layer moleskin tape
@quiet bay I use this video instead of others because things like clipping legs arent needed/possible on the Wooting stabs and most current stabilizers and bandaids are inconsistent at times. A good proper lube is the way to go.
did you use the moleskin instead of painters tape?
Yeah
ah ok
👍
like the 40a is small enough?
40A is just hardness level, not size
If you're using Screw In Stabs you want S Ring, if you're using Clips Ins or Plate Mount, you want M Ring
S = Small, M = Medium, 30A - 70A is hardness levels
I use a 40A
Not really , its recommended to use between 30 - 50A but Ive seen some used higher and I've tested 55A and 65A and they worked fine, just really stiff
Some want a specific color so they end up going for higher hardness but I prefer 40A like I said
embrace tray mount and disregard fake gummy oring
Anyone who says friction mount doesnt reduce tray mount dead spots, isnt listening close enough. Like Tenturo says, it's not true gummy mount and it wont feel like it, but it does provide benefits.
Provides enough benefits to be worth it, especially since it's a $5 mod and takes less than 5 minutes to do
vs something like Switch Tape Mod which is also cheap monetarily but not cheap in terms of your sanity
lmao
I didnt even do 1, I already knew it wasnt going to be my thing. It does make a big difference though.
the difference is big from teh sound tests in here of people showing them
gets rid of the rattle noise and stem wobble
but man the mod itself so laborous and annoying
at that point just get ks-20us
Yes but, hear me out. Sometimes time is more available than money.
that fair
but also
sometimes sanity is more important than time
I think I'll stream this evening and swap out some lubed and filmed L60's for some KS-20T's in a custom top mount case with an aluminum plate to see how much it improves the sound.
This
But at the time no other switch was out
So Switch Tape Mod was people's desperation mod
I know cause I did it
This too
Sometimes
Cause time is money
Finally gonna use the Jades?
Yeah, going to just try them in one of my custom cases with aftermarket plates since the alumaze build is delayed hehe
New set or they get returned to you?
New set
Noice
I wont get the first one back for a few weeks Im sure.
custom top mount case 
Lmk what you think of factory lube, if you're streaming, I'll just ask ya there
what case are we talking here
Sirius60
oh man that's a board i have not heard in a long time
I had one myself and it was p good
too bad project keyboard big scammer now
Never had one but seemed like a good board
I ALMOSt bought a POM version I saw on MM a while back but decided to pass. It was an impulse buy just to compare to mine
the typing experience was the flexiest top mount ive ever used/seen
lmao I redid it twice 🤣
i think im good on friction mount on tofu
I have no idea what they were thinking on that usb port
ig they weren't expecting a friction mount
Like look at that
Mine was originally built with the aluminum plate. It wasnt that flexy but I liked the sound, so I went with an aluminum plate for it with the Wooting and honestly, it sounds like ass. Hoping the Jades are the ticket.
yeah the alu plate in my frog and he turned out p bad
so i went back to pom with it
I didn't have jades either but hoepfuly they are the savior
You know what. I still have a 3D printed wooting plate for the frog, maybe I'll give that a try one day to fill in some stream time
This channel needs a bit of cuteness
7 month old grandson
2-12 are awesome ages for a girl
They dont call me the Thockfather for nothing 😆
yeah still cute ahah
@harsh dove when I get some free time should I snag the stems out of those old L60's I pulled the other night and put them in some Raptors?
Might still be a fun project just for a comparison
I'm assuming you have not tried it yet, right?
havent even opened the raptors. Was saving all of that stuff for months lol
I'd definitely try it, I just personally didn't like the friction feel
These 60's are very broken in though and my buddy has an actuation machine I can use (well he will do it for me)
Oh okay, might not be as much friction then? I'm not too sure
You'll definitely have to let me know what you think
Try the raptors stock first and compare them to lekkers tho
Will do.
BTW was able to test streaming to youtube in 4k yesterday and it worked fine but there are some challenges.
The bitrate, encoder, resolution, audio, etc are universal to OBS so if I want to stream to youtube one day and then twitch the next, I have to redo all my settings. If I try to stream a 51k bitrate, 4k feed to twitch it doesnt work. Even if I use a restream plugin in OBS, I cant configure the stream output settings seprately per service.
The only option is a restream service and they dont support 4k
Right cause twitch won't allow 4K, correct?
So Im guessing I need to record in 4k to post to youtube later, streeam in 1080p for twitch OR just stream 1080p 60 to both for now.
Correct. its coming and is in beta, but not available yet
BUT the 4k to youtube looked good. I may do that tonight for the Sirius 60 switch swap just to see
Yeah, I kinda wanna see the 4K YT lol but I know some people will stream on Twitch and then also record/make their YT vids during the live stream, but in terms of Multistreaming, I'm not sure if you'd just prioritze YT for the 4k, then restream to Twitch? If that's what you're trying to do idk
But when I test streamed CS2, which is 1440p, it didnt look great stretched to 4k and at 30fps.
Yeah I had mine stretched when I was testing at one point and didn't like it lol
There are no 4k restreaming services and I cant do it in OBS with different settings so I "think" the only people multi-streaming to different platforms are doing it in 1080p and then just doing video on demand for 4k youtube content
Yeah, I figured they just do it in 1080p cause I knew there weren't any 4k restreaming services (That I know of)
I know one of the Tarkov streamers I watch does like 936p60fps (and he multistreams to Twitch and YT)
cause apparently that's best for tarkov lol
that game looks like it obliterates bitrate
My brother loves Tarkov lol. He gets so tlted though lol
I played tarkov for 20 minutes back in 2019, and was tilting enough in those 20 mins i never played again
Yeah it’s a very rough start
And the game doesn’t teach you anything
It was more just it's too slow paced gameplay
and getting one shot from somwhere was also fun
lol yeah that’s the best part
Ive been debating playing Helldivers but I started Last Epoch over the weekend and Im a little hooked
LE is great, 1.0 coming out wednesday, one of my favorite ARPGs
Helldivers is great , I’ve been thinking of trying LE again too
Both
How’s the housing on the screw-ins? By any chance a bit smaller than on clip-ins?
My 2Us are rocking left and right, so I gotta get a long poles, unfortunately
Housing was the same tbh
At least to my eye
Both worked fine for me tho
Gotcha, well, going to try anyway, and see if any destructive changes required
Yeah, the clip-ins were not compatible with my pc plate, so gonna test screw-ins
Add me on steam if you do play Helldivers, I've been enjoying it 😄
Shit now I have to try it lol
Guys im getting some lube and a switch opener from a friend today :)
@stray tiger sorry for ping, but i just had a quick question. do you still have PBTfans Resonance on a board, cause i remember talking to you about it quite a bit back, and i believe you were gonna put it on one. so if you do, could you send a pic of the build?
I still have the set but don't think I have it on a board atm. Coincidentally I was going to pull it out this week and compare it to GMK Deepfield which should be here today or tomorrow
aah alright, i just think its a dope looking set, kinda want to get it, dont know if i can lol, since GB ended, theyre doing a R2, but thats a light mode version of it pretty much. Anyways, but then i remember talking to you about it, so i figured i would shoot you a message, since i dont know if i ever saw the finished build on it
If I throw it on a board Ill take a photo and shoot you a DM
alright, that would be awesome. (after you do that, ship the board to me? 😜 )
This is worth checking out if you really like that set. Its not exact but might be close enough to scratch the itch https://thekeymachine.com/products/001 plus it comes with the novelties and accent and there are only 250 sets being sold ever
i apreciate it, but ive seen the set before, and the colour scheme is not exactly what im looking for
Hi for those that have done the burger mount mod to the wooting does it make any difference to the sound and the typing feel
In stock case it doesn't really do much to the sound and typing feel is barely changed as it will still be pretty stiff
alumaze case? worth to do it?
Will reduce metallic ping if it’s there
so its worth then
tbh I'd say go gummy mount since it's less painful and agonizing to do
but you can def try both as they are cheap mods
Is it achievable in alumaze tho?
then choose which one you like better
yeah pretty sure it is
Cool, didn’t know that
greatest game of all time
The ducky’s cable tie is just too cute
I hate my ducky😂
Well, it’s still pretty decent, but I swapped to wooting and really enjoying it so far
Just thew ducky’s cable at work, so I don’t have to worry about bringing the cable
Ducky cable cool, ducky keyboard bad
ngl I want to make my own switch break in machine....
tho I don't have a 3d printer and the knowledge to do it LMAO
would be a cool little project
Use a piece of plastic
Just lay flat and press on, should actuate every switch
well ye but like automatic o.o
Oh well, over engineering 😂
I mean how do you think some switches come out so smooth stock >:VVVV
I understand this shit on factories, don’t get me wrong
But for personal use..?
well aint no one doing all those actuations manually for 60+ switches
and it will require ten thousands of actuations
2h job, probably 😂
I pressed my space bar at least that amount while working on the stabs😂
Yo! I got a 60 HE a while ago and I've been loving it, its fantastic. I just ordered one of the detachable cable sets and I'm just curious, what do people use the detachable cable to hotswap between? I don't think I have any devices that could utilize that just yet
I don’t think people actually swap them around. Majority just uses custom cables for the looks
Mkay that's what I had figured, I wanted to make sure i wasn't missing anything
yes and more colours for keycaps cables and wrist rests are comming out soon
There might be use cases for that, but I’m not aware, unfortunately
Any confirmed colors for the cables?
FIRE COLOR SELECTION😭
I did both
@timber crystal @bitter valve most of my use for connector cables was to switch between different boards that had different usb connectors (mainly mini-usb and usb-c)
but since then I’ve started using the magnetic end ones so I can swap between keyboards, charge controllers, charge my mouse, etc
Yeah, that’s fair
Although the magnetic ends are more to save on port wear/tear than they are to allow using the same cable
Has anyone used the graveshift s-o ring with screw ins on the tofu redux?
Wondering if it’s worth or if I should just stick to plate mount
To charge controllers is genius
I've seen 1 or 2 people mention it was very tight on the redux but possible. Proceed accordingly
I've only tested it on the Alumaze and worked fine, idk how well it'll work with Redux, case tolerances can vary
Hm
Do you know the hardness of the o rings they had?
Seems like it may work but not flawless fit
I have a 40a small but haven’t tested with the module in the redux yet
Need to swap stabs first 
Oo okie, definitely update us when you do
it works fine without the poron foam, and i had to change the spacebar stabilizers to plate mount but the other screw in stabs were fine
a
Im curious to know if the hardness will affect the install
@stray tiger What camera do you use to record above your desk? And are you using its mic to show the keyboard sound?
cause it's really nice
The one pointing down right?
oh damn that's one crazy setup lol
but yeah
Its a Sony ZV-1. I think its Sony cheapest 4k camera and it runs through a 4k capture card into OBS. I dont use the camera mic. The mic you see attached to it is a Sennheiser MKE 600 that runs through an audio interface.
Nothjing but the best for you guys! (ok not close to the best but better than average).
You do NOT need a 4k camera. If I started over, I wouldnt do it either. All sorts of streaming issues. 1080p is perfectly fine
any recommendations 👀
Im only familiar with Sony cameras so Im not a lot of help there. If you just want a good overhead camera, even solid webcam would be perfect, like the Logitech ones
Hmm alright I'll search for some, ty 🙂
Im going to start a youtube stream here in about 30min to test out the 4k streaming if youre still around
ofc will be hopping in if i'm available
Check out Senpai Gaming aka Harris Heller
for streaming gear
ooh ok I'll check that out too
does the power-on calibration happen per-switch or across the board? (i.e. can you mix switches with different travel length and flux strength like jades and ks-20u on the same board?)
pretty sure that's possible
as the magic happens in the pcb and not the switch
since the switch just holds the magnet
so the pcb detects the magnet
ye, but if the magnets have different strengths?
should be fine
it will detect the magnet
if you're skeptical you can probably just buy a few switches and try it out
true, they do have a 10 switch pack
As long as the magnetic strength is within roughly10% of the sensor limits, you're fine to mix and match switches. Not all magnets are equal, even with the same switches.
alrighty
figured since i'm undecided between the jades and ks-20u, they're sold in 70-packs, and I need 108 for a Two HE, might as well just get one pack of each lol
@quiet bay https://www.youtube.com/@thethockfather/streams or anyone else who wants to help me test 4k streaming and hang out while I swap some Jades into a custom Sirius 60 board
do i get 1.6 tx ap screw in stabs?
Yes
Just know they won't work with the wooting steel plate, and can have possible fitment issues with the PC Plate @wispy thistle
I got mine to work fine, but few others had issues getting them to fit
im using the pc plate. so that would be like a defect in my personal plate if its not fitting?
Not a defect, the plates are fine. The TX AP Screw Ins and Clip Ins have thicker housings than the Plate Mount ones, so they can cause issues with the stab not returning
Like I said, I've tested all 3 and got them to work fine
what do i do iof i overlubed a keyboard?
just open em back up and brush/wipe off the excess
and don't get lint on em when wiping or that'll just make it even worse
bro i did test it and it seemed fine but i guess not
if i just like leave it for a few days will it get better or nah
You can just spam the overlubed keys until everything has settled
It’s fine
ok
Just click them and that's it
Have you tried polar65 by any cjance?
I have not!
Oh damn, I've heard some great words about it
Wondering if I should get ot
Peoplesay after modding it sounds better then wooting
ok ty
@fluid ravine sorry where can i see your wooting station again?
theres more but this is the lastest one
performance wise tho it's not better
if you chasing sound go for a mx board and have your wooting on the side or only for gaming etc
Doubt, all the he boards tend to sound the same after modding
You’re basically just ending up with foamy ks20u/t or foamy ks37b
specifically the clear cheapo ones they using
milky top or opqgue would be nice setp
Polar65 is lamzu65 is Yuki aim 65 is atk68 is drunkdeer g65 with different switch
At this point anyone who says one is better than the other is fooling themselves
Literally all using the same parts from same oem and drunkdeer only difference is they picked raesha switches
Placebo Effect
I know it's not as good performance wise
If you look at the pcb model numbers it’s literally all revisions of the exact same pcb parts for all of those boards
I never tried anything other then wooting and my own PCBs so I don't know
just let them break in
if u didn't overlube too much
It’s all read as something like k1112a, then other company will be k1112b, k1113b etc - they just change the case mainly
"after modding"
lets go just ordered all the parts!
If you mod wooting it's also good
Yeah, there is a lot of opinions
thanks for all the help in the past couple weeks eveyrone
What did you get?
yeah im saying if you're chasing sound don't buy another HE board
me?
Oh I am not chasing sound, I didn't say I see it as a better one either.
Yeah, new stabs?
no i ordered everything. the pcb, the case, the keycaps, stabs, lube, even a lube station XD. going to be my first custom
dw it's my first custom and gaming keyboard overall lol
Ah damn, good luck with that. I myself am waiting for my staebies to arrive to check how it goes
I had a membrane keyboard
Still have one
I do still have it, it's rotting in one of my drawers
I haven't had a membrane keyboard since like 2013
I use it as daily driver, noise complaints
lmao
Household members don't like my keebs
Whenever I get into a public place, membrane or laptop keyboard it is
I made my friend a custom clicky keyboard (he paid for it) cause he liked the sound and feel
he almost got his ass whooped
Uh oh
because it was so loud and he was playing in the night
Meanwhile razer black widow
This was a build for a friend who requested for clicky switches (forgive him).
Keyboard: RK68 case filled with butyl rubber tape and 2mm EVA foam
Switches: Kailh Box Whites (Spring lubed with GPL 105)
Keycaps: GMK Mizu Clones with butyl rubber in the space-bar
Stabs: Clipped stock stabs with band aid on plate and pcb to reduce wobble and rat...
deep clik
the surface it's on probably makes it sound deeper tho
Yeah
30A S o-ring in redux for me. Can take it out with bare hands, no tools.
Awesome
People tend to install it wrong too, make sure your o-ring completely under the plate, use keycap puller to push it further if needed
any of you that have used magnet jades, is there cherry profile interference when theyre north facing? im holding out hope that a clear bottom switch with a sealed bottom comes out but if that isnt the case i will use the jades so i can at least get the rgb on top of the board even if it isnt through it
I haven’t heard of any problems with interference using jades
we don't have anyone in here with an fr4 custom plate and jades do we?
I'd be curious to see what a slightly poppier sounding plate would sound like with jades
Not that I know of, but I just ordered 4 custom plates recently to try out, POM, FR4, CF, Alu
I have 8 plates that I can swap to but no jades or raptors
Is it worth it for the wooting60he? I have been considering it a bit but quite expensive {Australia}? Is it worth it or should i wait?
worth if you want 60%
if you really want the 80he you can wait but you are gonna be waiting until mid-late summer iirc
Already using a 60%
id go with 60he
Alright
certainly worth it
Ok
have had mine for around a half a year, loyal to wooting for sure after using it this long
between the case and module
is it an extra?
the case already has one it came with
alumaze case
just use the alumaze one
and put that one to the side?
yeah
also should the orings go on like this? or am i doing it wrong?
think you place them on the standoffs in the case
ah okay
Doing it wrong.
rip
They either go on the PCB, or on the standoffs.
You've added them between the plate and foam. Definitely not advisable, sensor issues.
oh well ill take then ill take it off and place it on the ones in the case
thanks fpr helping out
where on the pcb?
if there a vid on yt i could watch?
Put them on the case standoffs.
here? on the 2 in the corners?
Five in total.
Install the brass standoff that you haven't near the spacebar.
Then slap those orings on all of the standoff spots.
so one of these gold ones go into that spacebar right
and now the orings on top off standoffs
can i use the black ones that came with the case or do i have to use the transparent ones?
Either
one last question which screws do i use to screw in the pcb to the case?
The ones painted white. 👍
Either.
You're literally breaking the PCB
Get that out of there and rotate it. Note how the LED is LEFT not UP.
@untold wigeon
bro xd
You have ISO.
take a look in the hole the switch is supposed to go into
you just need to line up the 2 pins on the switch with the two holes in the PCB
bro is condescending
so they shouldnt be mounted like that?
while being wrong at the same time
look at the right thing dummy
You didn't though.
It's in the same orientation as all of the other switches 😄
The LED? Possibly. Only one way to find out. Powering on the board.
The switch? No just rotate it as shown on the piece of paper.

About the LED? Not without a very experienced solderer and replacement parts. We can provide a replacement PCBA, but that's a 90€ something cost to replace the entire thing.
could it be a chance that if i change the orientation it could work?
or it it dead dead
crushed
yes?
ye its gone
English, the language is English.
a led has been abused
did you not see there was a led instead of a hole
not that bothered bro
i dont use leds anyways
i did a mistake
doesnt effect its performance
*buy a 300$keyboard
not bothered to build it carefully
your german?
ouch
bro stfu
swe
wonder what this guy would do if he crashed his car ”but bro it cost 10k”
moderators pls i need help this dummy guy is mad for not taking care of his own expensive keyboard
to be fair u said shit
really not what im mad about
yeah he did smth wrong but pls be nice
you’ve been in this server and been trolling
i mean you feel that it doesn’t go in
dont worry about me
worry about urself
its not ur keyboard neither is it ur money
yes
myself is doomed
yeah he did a mistake an expensive one but i think he lerned from it and will look next time so pls be nice next time and have fun when u buy ur wooting
i wasn’t being not nice he just said he’s not that bothered which i find dumb for a keyboard at that price to not be bothered



