#🔌│tech
1 messages · Page 24 of 1
the issues come from constantly heating up the gpu to that temp then bringing it back down after you're done with whatever you're doing
so ur saying bringing my gpu from 20c to 56c is better than 20c->> 80c and back
The trick is to keep it constantly at that temp :).
That's why I find it funny when people tell others to not buy secondhand GPUs because it could have been used for mining as if it is more wearing than norm usage as it's not. They stay cool and full load so less likely to cause solder contact issues.
depends on the gpu model
espc with eth mining memory can often degrade on 3080s if it wasn't cooled correctly
Also mining doesn't actually put that much of a load on the gpu
and lets not mention readeon 7s
Some systems can as an example suffer "pump out" Where the copper expanding and contracting pushes the thermal paste off the die
And this has been tested in controlled environments when?
That doesn't matter, you want as little thermal paste as possible
Speculation, ive seen zero proof of this.
It's like saying your dram dies because you had chrome open all the time compared to someone who uses edge or something xD
It literally does matter, because pump out replaces the solder with airgaps
that isnt the point
the point is that they have the vram on the back
it isnt cooled
Thats not how it works for cpus
Yes it does
Nope
That's the 3090
3090 does but 3080 does not.
[citation needed]
whoops wrong model my bad
And the 3090 memory thermal throttles if nescessary
What about copper oxidation rate; is it linear as temperature increases?
Many of us think that applying thermal paste to the CPU or GPU will always help to increase the heat transfer efficiency. That’s not always the case. We can encounter issues like thermal paste pump-out which can actually bring in a negative set of problems that you need to solve. Otherwise, you wi
But still most are undervolted as you are an idiot if you mined properly with stock clocks. Power usage is dropped significantly with undervolting for mining as I did for both my Vega 64 and 3080
That's not a study of it, that's an article written in speculation
I wouldn't exactly say bringing silicon to the point where it throttles is a good idea but I ve never done so and not seen any tests
The article you link says basically no desktop cpu has that issue btw
In fact this is also just a marketing article for some thermal paste lel
"Another option is to use the KOLD-01 thermal paste. This one comes with a unique rheological design, and the paste becomes more solid without applying any force. If you apply extra force, the paste becomes fluid. Since it’s more solid than regular thermal paste when no extra force is applied, this option can help to mitigate the pump-out effect. It has a viscosity with spreading force of 100Pa-s and viscosity without spreading force of 1,200Pa-s. What this shows is that the force does make a difference"
Ffs lmao
People falling for the oldest marketing trick in the book
I just took the first article from google
https://www.reddit.com/r/GamingLaptops/comments/qyr2rx/in_case_if_you_are_wondering_what_pump_out/
that's a laptop
And the thermal paste wasn't pumped out lmao
desktop CPUs won’t have major pump-out issues, if any at all.
it talks about the effect on processors that have no lid, aka direct die cooling
That's just stock paste xD.
I'm sorry but most stock applications will be like that as it's better to have MORE rather than not enough paste in assembly.
Yea
Also in theory the right amount of paste between the CPU and cooler is zero
You want the paste to pump out
direct die cooling lmfao
Ok here, an actual research paper
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/3899700_An_accelerated_reliability_test_method_to_predict_thermal_grease_pump-out_in_flip-chip_applications
Yep the force of the heatsink clamped to ihs is all that's needed you want the paste to fill any voids that's it, the rest is rightly pumped out haha
the whole reason why paste exists is because there will always be imperfections on either the cooler or dye
paste will fill those in
Laptops, and tablets can suffer badly from pump out. As they have direct silicon to copper heatsinks
[citation needed]
ideally you'd have perfect contact between the dye and cooler but that's impossible with current tech
Literally just gave you one
Nope
There we go fellas
The entire study is refuted with a nope
That paper is the exact opposite of what you actually were trying to proove
That looks like it only looks at how temperature changes between time/cycles?
Of course temp changes because the paste cures eventually, most stock paste is like that regardless of its usage.
yeah the study is not about what you are trying to prove with it
Pump out is caused by cycles, and induces higher temps. It's the reason laptops need thicker pastes, as thinner pastes get pushed out too easily and get roasted
Low temp is better but it's not exactly much difference, it depends entirely on the board itself but in terms of GPU die 80c is nothing to take a moments notice at unless it's under water in which case your loop is bad 🙂
no the reason is that laptops are direct die cooling unlike on desktop where you have a soldered heat spreader on which you put the thermal paste..
some ssd components actually like being warmer
50>80
don't spin it ffs
No it's because of assembly lines, you have wide variances in manufacturing tolerances and you want to minimise poor contact for RMA so you use more than a normal end user will use.
also that
"Usingthese tests, application of thermal grease on the flip-chip cachein a Slot 2 S.E.C cartridge was predicted to be low risk"
This is the conclusion of the paper
Anything that isn't this is your brain filling in bs to make it say what you want it to say
from what I know there's not much knowledge on whether ssd cooling makes a difference in performance or how long it lasts, as long as it's within normal operating temps it's fine
also this is what they used to test/demonstrate, this is not how a desktop cpu is build up
Yep sort of
What this specifically was was Intel testing it to see if their testing methodology for accelerated testing of heat cycles works
for desktop replace the thermal grease in that image with solder which cant pump out and the paste would be between heatspreader and heat sink
so a totally different setup
intel used to use thermal paste under the ihs too afaik
They did use it for a while yea
And they were rightly crucified for it as it was abysmal
made delidding a thing I think with soldered ihss it s harder t delid
Tbh it wasn't
It was actually better for everyone
I am going to bed, can yalls find a counter source disproving the pump out meme. It's a very common ifea in the laptop community
it was better aside for when you wanted to OC it hard
The biggest advantage for overclockers is the significantly shorter CPU dies
the counter source is the first article you linked yourself
I believe it was ivybridge they swapped it.
People weren't happy as it ran significantly hotter for overclocking and even stock so they couldn't get near sandy bridge.
If my memory serves correctly, could be wrong
pump out is a thing, I can confirm
laptops kekw
pump is a thing, it doesnt to anything on a desktop cpu though
Yo you are saying baseless nonsense
Here's the first Google search result for a research paper with pump out in the title
Your source is saying the opposite of what you said it said
I'll just ignore you and it's the community says it so it must be right
It meant the IHS was much worse at heat transfer as solder is a better bonding method for efficiency but it is more expensive and can result in more failed applications.
It was intel cost cutting to maximise profits, don't blame them as they had zero competition at the time.
I guess delidding was a lot easier though!
🤷♂️ believe what you want, but the dau korning pastes that Intel used were insanely long lasting as thermal pastes
The reason Intel switched away from solder was the higher wear factors
Now they switched back only because the CPUs actually need it now
If CPU a and b are the same performance in the same situation, I'll take whichever lasts longer
Yeah it was a production thing and works within spec, for stock it's not a problem really but for overclocking it was a poor change.
As they kept having to pump up the clocks to improve they hit that limit and needed the efficiencies of using solder again instead of paste.
Pretty sure they changed over a couple of generations to improve the paste used as first gen switch it was talked about for ages as an issue of throttling easily.
Uses more of the battery to do that
lol seems a bit cumbersome if the display was smaller maybe
That will get so many scratches too
oled screen that lights up for 5 seconds on demand?
i mean, sure, worse battery life
can't argue with that
40 hours total music playback - 10 hours in the earbuds with a further 30 in the case
Could do eink display
4770 was paste, 4790 was solder
Also deliding is easier with solder as they use less glue kek
because people don't listen to music when it's dark i guess
Battery limit for buds is the buds themselves not the case.
Most cases have a lot of empty space
and invisible when?
I would say better to have a smaller more narrow screen that shows just the most needed info like the current charges for both buds and the case and thats all thats needed.
that's just a waste of a screen
Just make the case out of a screen probablem solved
putting a touchscreen with music controls, time and notifications on the case is a brilliant idea
Yeah or even just swipe controls on it
it's not hdr, it won't fuck battery
no? like. you typically have those controls on the buds or on the phone/laptop/device itself. its better to have them on the buds because they would be with you.
putting it on the case doesnt mean you have to remove them elsewhere
even if
i'd prefer a touchscreen over most touch controls on earphones
apple
's shit with squeezing
still the best way to control playback on earphones imo, has anyone replicated?
Probably not considering how small Bluetooth earbuds are
Everything core up to the 8086k was paste
Including the 4790k
And no, solder is harder to delid because you need to heat it up and soften (not melt) the solder
Never had an issue
Put in jig, tighten, add a bit of heat
And the pop right off
With paste you can damage the substrate trying to shear it
.......
And trying to cut it dose the same
🤦♀️
If earbud cases had gesture controls you would need to reach jn your pocket and make weird movements 
like on the gpu next to a switch? thats a bios switch for the different bios options then
Yeah exactly. You'll already most likely have the phone already in your hand
need a picture then
Sounds wierd but familiar
I think i heard about something like those on some cards
When you want to run your fans in "silent mode"
My memory is vague
so make a picture of it so we know what it is
Well you don't want your video card to melt so don't make your fans run like poo for no reason
Wait is this physical switch or software?
looks like a switch to me
by seeing in what position the switch is....
thats how switches work
Yes
The way it is now
usually they have one mode that makes sense and one that doesnt make sense to use, idk how its with that card, gotta try it out or read up on it
Oh that. It's just a BIOS switch.
One has a higher OC and a more aggressive fan profile.
well, sometimes yes, sometimes one bios setting is just garbage
sometimes its also basically the same
sometimes its also default and downclock
Often it's just the fan curve
also often the case yes
lmao who did this
did what
steamy deck
@latent mural might want to not do any overlcocking till you get better understanding of your computer parts and other fundamentals
gpu is probably safe I don't think nvidia allows any voltage adjustment
literally is a switch
the little black part you can move to the left or right
I don't think you should operate it while the pc is on
its under the lip somewhere
it's not some buttons
don't mess with it
just leave it as it is, honestly.
pretty sure it does move
doesnt really have a locking mechanism
is there the black plastic part on the outside or is it just the metal block above it
these things are fucking tiny
also just leave it be tbh
yes different card
but looks like these in some way or another
nah its not going to break your card
he might break the switch 
its right there
then don't move it
it's fine where it is
you dont want it in quiet mode anyways
it's set to performance mode
the switch it not gonna help u
how do you even know what its set to on his card lol
these bios presets often dont change much
it literally says it on his card
he never posted his card???
oh wait i looked at wrong image
yes but name is not a guarantee its the same on all of them
I doubt asus would set it to quiet mode by default
eitherway : it'll be where its pointing where it says performance
no sometimes it just isn't lol
I wouldn't - Cause it's safe.
its an extremely safe thing to change since its almost stock values and we dont know what its set to so idk why you are harping on the guy to not touch it as if he's going to set it to 20V input
it's more like there's no need to at all and he's saying its not moving and it's gonna suck if he breaks it trying to force it
he's saying it doesn't move so I assume he doesn't know how much force to use
and again : no point to changing it if things are fine already
we dont really know if there is no point unless you know what the difference in bios is and what his card is set to
we aren't harping on them, also.
I'm sure he'll notice if his fans is super duper loud or too quiet when it shouldn't be.
or maybe one is loud the other is normal and he wants performance so it would be on the wrong one, we simply dont know lol
he doesn't seem to be complaining
so maybe the other bios would be more power and not too loud either so he's leaving free performance (yes not a ton obviously) on the table
🤷♂️
Again : they'll find out when its acting out of norm
you know that both bios settings have a good chance to not act out of the norm in either direction
or maybe he doesnt mind the fans going "out of the norm" and is ok with that and wants the extra 5 fps or so it could give if its not on performance now
"Asus claims the Quiet mode is four times quieter than Performance mode while only two degrees warmer. But the default Performance mode is so cool and quiet, we can’t envision needing to use the secondary BIOS for anything but overclocking." from a review I do not imagine it ll make much of a difference
idk where to find anything about the quiet/perf mode on asus's website
maybe I need to read the 55pg manual
and I don't know why Quinn needs to overtly defend the argument or such. It's a literal non-issue either way. And as I said : if they find an irregularity because of it's mode selection they can change it.
nope just "put gpu in slot plug in 8pin" in 20 languages
I'm just saying let the guy change it if he wants and not just flat out say to let it be because its fine as it is
saying to only change it if something is wonky doesnt make sense since neither mode is likely creating irregularity
it's not that he wants to : it's that he doesn't know what it does and asked about it because he didn't want to break anything :V
so, of course : go with the motto of don't break it because you don't know what it is or don't break it because it's not moving.
literally started with him asking how to set it to performance since he didnt know its a switch..
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
lmfao I just found out the 6700xt nitro+ has 2 slightly different skus
"2581MHz Boost
2424MHz Game"
vs
"2622MHz Boost
2548MHz Game"
interesting
ASRock X670 may need some time to load According to the photo posted by hardware leaker HXL, ASRock’s new X670E motherboard will take 100s to 400s for first boot. The sticker attached memory section ensures the correct installation of DDR5 modules. This chart also has information how to install one, two, or four memory DDR5 […]
Heh
Ah, lovely modern hardware
ddr5 go brrrrrrrrrrrrRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
But I thought it was meant to be faster!!
its just giving the competition a head start for fairness
Auto ram oc oh god
ehh its just the first bootup and if you do 4x 32 you're lucky if thats the only issue anyway lol
I mean as long as it shows it clearly through boot codes I'm guchi.
If not - Fuck em.
it s just memory training lol
It's memory training multiple times with different profiles...
as long as they explain it in the manual I think this is fine
I dont really see the problem
Automatically overclocking the memory is a bad idea...
Especially if it's doing that automatically without telling the user...
I dont think its auto oc and just memory training
It's training multiple times
where is that info from
or do you just mean it trains for all the xmp settings even if they are not loaded
Guesspeculation
But sources familiar with the matter have confirmed there are multiple different profiles that amd is using to interpret xmp on Zen 4
ASRock appears to be training multiple of them and picking one somehow?
oh so just asrock doing weird things as usual
maybe they look at both xmp and expo and somehow decide which one to take
Normally memory training is just making sure the timing set work so I guess the memory controller is much tighter than last time maybe?
AMD has their EXPO as an alternative this time to XMP
Memory training on my c6h would take forever
That was probably failing to train xmp defaults
but, would that mean asrock now enables expo automatically and no more jedec timings on first bootup?
or are they just training it for fun and still not use it
That's pretty normal these days
The strange thing is training multiple times every time
I'm pretty sure boards dont enable xmp by default?
It should never fail to train first time on qvl sticks
I goddamn wish
asrock boards?
or who was it that enabled intels boost back a generation or two, was that msi
Probably gigabyte?
ASRock are usually the ones breaking the unwritten rules 😄
But ASUS and Gigabyte have also done it in the past.
No
Gigabyte breaks the unwritten rules
ASRock breaks the written ones lel
Lga115x socket on am4 is the most recent example

oh great
usb naming is getting worse again
USB4 is now USB4 Version 1.0 and the next one is going to be USB4 Version 2.0
Yay
The worst part is they are increasing the speed...
But tbh I don't care as long as they have 1 logo per speed
whats wrong with just calling it USB-C?
uhh because the connecter type says nothing about the protocol?
usbc could be 3.whatever or 4.whatever
wait what is USB 4 suppose to be?
https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2022/09/usb-c-naming-to-somehow-get-worse-with-usb4-version-2-0/ there
you have USB A 1 2 and 3.0, USB B and 3.0, USB Micro, mini, and then USB-C. not counting proprietary.
you're forgetting lovely versions like USB 3.2 Gen 2x2
I got nothing on that in my brain
then you have missed a lot in the last years
I just plug shit in lol they don't put names on the fuckin cables @_@
yes they do
i'm literally looking at my USB C cable and there's literally nothing on it.
So, for this one : no they did not.
this isn't on my cable
aye and quinn thinks they can magically sight-seer into my current hosuehold items and see my cable
You can easily test speeds
it's just a blank white cable lol they didn't even laser etch on the socket part.
So long as both devices are above the cable specifications
yeah. I do need to get a cable tester
But probably usb 2.0 or in some cases 3.0
your cables dont have this or similar on them?
or that, since the first picture was a bit low resolution lol
The USB trident is the minimum requirement, here is an older version of the branding requirements
@ashen spindle NOPE. I think only my old cables have them. let me dump them on the floor.
Everything is required to have one somewhere, generally they are found on the computer side
Sometimes they are rather well hidden tho
I am aware.
i'm just saying, typically : they aren't really going to give yhou the exact specs or much needed info like "USB C 3.1/2/whatever"
Usually on the box
well yeah but i aint got no boxes for them and I aint gonna remember them years down the line
also yup just checked all my USB C cables : only brand names if anything
i'm not concerned or needing the info so I'm fine not knowing.
Here are the logos
also I only have one maybe two cables I've ordered online and it's not gonna be a nice or awsome thing
and I know the logos >.>
not me first rodeo
Superspeed vs basic Trident vs superspeed 10 and 20
Then you now have the USB 4, 20, 40, and 80 logos
I'm just saying they should print them on the cables like how Ethernet cables have their ratings and stats, typically, printed on them.
most important point, It's USB 3 but USB4, no space between anymore 
20 and 40s, righto
so dumb
That's not where the printing should be
That would require different printing for different types of cables
no changing branding to suddenly have a space or not is dumb, idk what firewire did because I barely know what the name means
it was the format wars, Quinn.
there was a lot of casualties
but FireWire stuck a good fight against USB
but they lost in the end
they lasted a solid 14 years
and a few times they beat USB in specs.
but yeah you had to remember assload of numbers
ok the change of the spacing remains extremely stupid
Firewire 400, 800, S800T, S1600 and S3200. or you went by their IEEE numbers
Actually I'm on usbif's side here
Removing the space means that if you search with quotes for usb4 you will only get products trying to be USB 4
lets all remember the poor bastards of zip and click-drives.
You won't get USB 3 port hub
you know what : valid point
I sincerely doubt they thought about it
USB with a space will get you everything
they should just eliminate the space
USB2 USB3 and USB4 would all be unique searches
when the previous change was to make usb3 versions sound as confusing as possible
I wouldn't be surprised
The standards forum sometimes has good ideas
The problem is it's designed by comittee
look, quinn : it's better to rip the bandaid now and do the change then never do it and make it worse later.
Inb4 usb4 was named the way it is because someone forgot a space
I just dont think thats the case when the same people made the version before that "USB 3.2 Gen 2x2"
tf is that abomination
yeah and maybe after that went : "oh, shit. that was stupid"
and so they decided not to do it again
😎
well it's like
If they go to version 3 next I'm all for it
normal USB4 is 20GB but then they already doubled it so fuggit. 1x2 is 2 so USB4 2
but thats not the name, the name is "USB4 Version 2.0"
But I really think they should just do usb4 80g
if they reach 60GB or 80GB they will call it 4.3
USB 4 is 40g, you can run half the connectors for 20g
why specify .0 as version number if you just go from 1 to 2 and no decimals
wait so USb4 is already natively 40g?
Yes
why bother with a half?
20g is removing 2 of the connectors inside
Thunderbolt supports it, alot of devices don't need more than 1 lane
is.. is that gonna be an issue plugging it into another USB C port?
also USB4 was just that, now its retroactively called Version 1.0 so branding is a mess of that already too
of any version*
Nope
It's just the device only can send 2 data streams at a time out of the 4 that the connector supports
the naming gives me the screaming screams of screaming
Just ignore it
well anyways 4 is the perfect number anyways so i'll be fine with it
I just hope they don't introduce USB 5 when Intel makes thunderbolt 5
That would be a pain
Also unlucky number in some asian cultures
oh? i thought it was a different number. forgot which though.
China especially
The word for 4 in Chinese is similar in pronunciation to the word for death
whereas the word for 8, is similar in pronunciation to the first word of the phrase which means “to achieve good fortune”
Well two negatives are a positive, so 4 X 2 = 8
ah
Hey, new to modding keyboards. Just pre-ordered a 60HE. What are some good sites/companies for keycaps?
Depends how much you want to spend
lmao
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Foldable tech is still so new we don’t know what to do with it yet. ASUS thinks a laptop with a 17” OLED display, detachable Bluetooth keyboard, and a premium price tag is the way to go… I’m not so sure.
Dis...
just trust me bro is funny when Anthony says it
The Arch Experience ™️
....
Thats a mistake
Even call of duty has split screen still
And offline multiplayer against bots
Yeah...
It is
Absolutely ridiculous, 343 must be feeling major imposter syndrome by now or at least should be.
How can they be so bad?? They are meant to be a big studios with a massive companies IP and yet can't do simple things.
I miss when bungie was running the show.
More like a remnant of the identity of FPS in the past.
By not being the same people. That is how.
If USB 1, USB 1.1, USB 2.0, USB 3, USB 3 Gen 2, and USB 3 Gen 2x2 weren't bad enough, now we have USB 4 and USB 4 Version 2.
Well I mean I know it's a different studio it's just so poorly managed xD.
Apparently some of it is Microsoft related
u forgot 3.1 gen 1 and 3.2 gen 1
and usb 3.1 gen 2
Nah the got replaced
they still exist
no?
Yes
if we follow their rename 3.1 g2 is 3.2 2x1
It is, and it is very strange
No USB 3 and 3.1 gen 1 are literally the same product
Yes it's dumb
They keep renaming the old ones
So consumers get confused and can't tell the difference
And are ok with the old spec
Nah it was 5
was it?
Yep
For usb c doe
Yeah USB SS was always 5gbit
It was the FireWire killer
And FW maxed out at like 3gbit
The best part about FW was the unregulated power supply up to like 30v
So every device that wanted to draw power had to accept 5-30v
But even after 3.0 came out FW still had better max power
Lets bring back click-drives from the dead
aka PocketZip or Clik!
that bad boy on the right could hold 40 to 100mb
The original fidget spinner, the metal slider for the floppy disk.
Makes sense, I never actually thought about it's purpose xD
Just stick it under water and problem solved.
It's not surprising if they are putting up the total board power higher than last time.
I have a desktop internal MD drive
Md-data
MD is minidisc? I remember my sister having a mini disc player back in the day and thinking how short lived it was.
Yes
I want to get a NT1 and make it into a internal MD audio drive
It was another contender in the Great Format War. BUt its primary footing was in japan where it was very popular.
lasted a long time. 1992 to 2011
size comparisons*
also was magnetic based optical, interestingly enough
Wow really 92 it started, wouldn't have thought that.
My sister must have got on to it very late as it like 06 or something.
MD was popular in the EU at least with the people I talk tk
What killed MD was Sony making really really hard to author disks on pc
If no one uses your product it doesn't matter how good it is technically
oh, yeah in europe too*
I think umd was the same diameter disk as MD
Especially for something that is used as a medium for music, the entry needs to be really easy as more users mean more sales and longevity
doesn't really count as a media storage since, like, not exactly distributed for public use lol
oh nice!
i personally really liked umd
Very close
UMD was terrible
Other than them being only RO
UMD didn't have a protective shield
And only in one device
Not as reliable as cartridge and not as good as flash. Worst of both worlds?
the plastic was cheap and not solid, which meant it often broke
and the drive on the PSP would get angry if you held it at the wrong angle and possibly leading to damage.
and, fo course, the drive itself was easy to damage and cheaply done too.
well have u tried strapping a md reader to a laptop and gaming while moving the laptop?
It was annoying as fuck to get the UMD discs out of their own containers too without breaking them/
I mean even Sony dropped umd for the go lol
and not strap flat
but strap to the display
pretty sure md fails the same ways in terms of on the go usage
I've done tons of sports wearing a MD player
Never had an issue
UMD Vs MD
what UMD had going for it was not being as expensive as Flash storage and had more storage at the time. But technology quickly outpaced it.
MD players have great antiskip
they held 1.8GB which was pretty solid for movies and 2004
Hi-MD was better in almost everyway other than not supporting a true read only mode
oof.
but better than a WORM Drive lol
Write One Read Many.
but yeah the UMD was a big failure.
even some major studios like... I believe it was paramount rejected the idea of having their movies on it.
Hi-MD was 1GB and first gen UMD were only 900mb
or rather to support it*
Same year relase
mainly cause they never released it outside of the psp
nice but there had to be a market for the drives as well
and there jsut wasn't one for here in usa
Never under stand why Sony didn't just find a way to make ro himd
Then they could of have cross compatibility
Which sells more media
PSP had all of the walkman features other than md
Would of been dope to have a writer in there
because most studios and stations were already on the move towards solid state tech by 2006-2008
Move songs from memory stick to MD
still use psp as music player sometimes
PSP was 2004
My vita is my daily driver media and game device lol
i mean in regards to updating the MD*
for gaming i use my switch with ppsspp
IPODs and generic MP3 players were already flooding the market by this time.
Vita is actually pocketable without drift kek
If vita could get real android it would be king lol
I'm the same but with my Vive
I have a OG pre-order vive and a vive pro
All the hardware works same as the day I got it
like the rubber on my right stick is already getting a bit iffy
but otherwise flawless
My only issues are the original head cushions melted
And I have a tiny scratch on the lense of the og vive
Never have touch pad issues
Or cable issues
Which seem to plague vives
Hell I only gave up my vive wireless adapter when I went to amd
no reader bork, no drift, no kickstand broken
With a jail broke switch can you move games on and off them?
That was why I gave up on mine
Having to delete and redownload shit all the time
no but i just have them all on microsd anyway
Never used my switch much 🤷♂️ it's like meh
my switch is as empty as the day i unboxed it
On my vita I can just ftp games on and off
i mean i just install games from network
Yeah but load times on SD is horrible
I have a v60 in it and it was almost 3 times as slow as internal
with a hacked switch you can basically do anything
cant be arsed to break my nand over that
including moving games to and from, repackaging them or moving and backuping your saves
still have to install games with nsp files
Over network?
also : Nintendo lost to class action lawsuit and has to repair joycon drifts for free so send them the bill 😛
yeah, you can do it by SD card, USB, or FTP. I prefer USB.
Where
I have a fat Nas, so I do everything over network
Last time I JB my switch it didn't support network game moving
it still doesnt to my knowledge
you can google it. I had mine sent back and repaired on their behalf. but if you want I can find the info for you.
Though the more I use my Odin the more it grows on me
but they are only doing the free repairs for USA
But I think the new gpd vita will be king
Ryzen in vita form sounds like a fever dream of mine
what did you use? Goldleaf? The anime wolf one, or Tin?
Idk why the switch joycons seemingly drift faster than others for me other stuff always breaks first on my controllers
goldleaf lol
It's been a long time lol
idk why anyone would use goldleaf
But yeah def going to pre order a god win 4
It combines my 2 favorite handhelds, both of which are sonys
tinfoil + gdrive is such a nice combo
Vita and UX
if the switch wasnt so slow with networking
What Cpu will the win 4 have?
6800u
Is the word
So same as the max 2
She is sexy
Especially when you lift up her skirt
Has dual type c, a type a port, and a 3.5 jack
As well as microsd
And analog triggers
Uhhhhh
Upcoming amd laptop chips will probably slay if they integrate RDNA 3
no touchpads..
I said upcoming
And it's about 2 times faster than the deck
So not 6800u
eh. not gonna lie. I'm super spoiled by the trackpads and gyro controls of the Deck and Steam Controllers. I cannot do normal conventional joysticks anymore.
Opposite lol
I try sooo hard to use my controller more
But never could get used to it
it's much better on the Deck, thanks to the upgrades.
Honestly I just hate how trash windows is for most of these handhelds
I'd rather use stick + touch screen
Especially with admin prompts
Also no way to fit them in this
like for instance the Joystick caps have a haptic touch on the top so you cna have gyro controls while touching it too. Easy to have the gyro on the spot for precise aiming and the fast large movement with the pads or stick.
You know how tiny a win 3 is compared to a deck?
how the fuck can you see anything fi your fingers are on the screen
Same as a phone lol
Only use it for menus
Win 4 looks very neat tho cool aesthetic
Touch screen is faster than touch pad or stick for menus/inventory stuff
The 3 and 4 are the same size
About the size of the screen on the deck
Touchscreen also isn't that great for people with naturally oily skin
Everytime I use the touchscreen on my deck I have to wipe it immediately
If only there was a pen
Volvo please
Win 3 vs deck
I typically don't use the touchscren on the deck primarily because I never feel like I have to. Sometimes I use it but like. I don't need to.
I had the urge to do it to enter my pin but I have now memorized the pattern
Or rather commited it to muscle memory
Nah I paid extra for the etched glass so I will use it
same here but like. I put a protection thing on it.
looks more uncomfortable to hold than the joycons
The 3 or 4?
both lol like legit makes me think of the ngage
the deck fits nice and dandy in ym hands
Depends on how much of a difference the smaller size makes but tbh I enjoy the larger screen on the deck
It fits in a pocket
Deck not so much
For a handheld I have my 3ds that's enough for me
shit was tiny as fuck. look at it
It's switch sized
I find the switch incredibly uncomfortable to hold
Yeah but it fits in a pocket
i legit had to buy third party holders that added beef to the switch
You can't make it thicker
aint no one putting switches in their pocket.
maybe if you had large cargo short pockets or sumthing lol
but typically people put them in cases or backpacks
I pocket my Odin all the time
Gameboy pocket/series, advance/sp, DS series ( non-2DS). those were pockets.
idunno the size comparison fo the odin
Odin is switch size
ah
Well switch light
But I do wear cargo pants
But a switch can fit in the front pocket of most of mine
that would give you the pocket space
yeah and likely my normal pants too but def not if I am going to be sitting down
and it's less awkward looking to just put it in the case
Get tradesman pants and never look back lol
Pocket overs are the best
Especially with phones and such
Pocket overs are a flap with pockets that go into your front pockets
You can pull them out and set of top of the pants when you're working/sitting
That way they never get squeezed or blocked
But you can tuck them in if you need to run so they don't flop around
I'll never go back to not having pocket overs or knee pads ever again
Nice, I can play steam deck on my mac 
is it better to turn off the computer at the wall when you shut it down or is it ok to leave that on?
The majority of my life ive left it on
power down the entire house after turning off the pc
Never turn off a computer by pulling out it's cord. Unless you mean turning the PSU off after it's already powered down.
As for the PSU switch, you might as well if you don't care about turning it back on afterwards.
yeah, shut down the computer, then turn off the wall plug once its shut off
not just yank the power cable out
xd
If anything turning the PSU off ensures some (very little, as other powered devices like the monitor and etc can feed back) safety if there's a surge that comes in, but YMMV.
so keep it always connected to power?
You might as well.
No point really turning stuff off unless you're afraid it might combust or a surge might kill your equipment.
That, and for caring about the potentially 5Ws that is being pulled when devices are powered off.
Definitely can happen, a lightning bolt struck recently and for the first time ever in my life it actually killed some elecrtronic devices
What ngh said. It can occur, and it will occur.
Like a one in a million chance though
obtain usps or ups
Yeah, the chances are low. Not to mention it could occur out of no where as well, even if you never heard a strike beforehand.
Or hell, the power gets shitty because a transformer blew a couple miles away, etc.
UPS energize, not USPS.
Also UPS' don't really protect you against a surge.
They only really protect you against power interruption.
Yes, even those high quality "interactive" ones.
One more thing to note: surge protectors are not 100%. Be it plug in ones, ones for cables (ex: coaxial or Ethernet). So don't rely on those to save your shit. Unplug all devices if you want 99.9% safety.
Yes gotta have that large physical gap because arcing
And said "coverage" is normally marketing. Seriously, go read up on them. You'd be surprised how hard it actually is to get your money back if something occurs.
Correct, lightning will go through anything. A power strip that is turned off will likely have lightning go to the plugs anyway.
Another thing to note: surge protectors can go bad. From what I've read, there are some that do not go bad over time, but not entirely sure how true or false that is. Some models tell you when the protection is gone, some don't, but the ones that do might also not. I don't know how frequent you should replace them however.
Easiest solution: unplug your shit (when you know in advance), keep backups (for when shit does happen and you didn't know in advance). Will solve 99.9% of your headaches.
One more thing to add: there are devices that can tell you if lightning is near, and the approximate distance. Don't know how reliable or accurate they are, but they're an option if you care about that type of thing. You can also hear lightning on an AM radio (tuned to the lowest freq you can set) from very far away, probably 100KM+ if I had to guess, but don't quote me on that. Sounds like static (louder than background noise). Poor man's lightning detector.
But honestly, you're just better off using your eyes and ears. If you see it, it's probably a bit close for comfort. If you can hear it, seriously, what the hell are you doing. Go unplug your shit.
Is it normal for windows take an absolute fuck ton of time to shut down?
Yes
I haven't used my PC either since last week
not used to it anymore eh?
^^
You should only worry if you're poor AF and can't afford shit being broken. That, and not having backups 
Just go bury your backups, problem solved.
Cheapest is backblaze
If it's attached to your computer, it ain't a backup chief.
And I was being sarcastic.
Slightly.
Throw one in a security deposit box, one stays attached to your pc
Swap as frequently as you want
@astral haven Security boxes are not safe.
at first consider if you actually have something you want to back up
all I'm backing up is a file with passwords
dont need anything else really
Yeah, there's not much you need to backup anyway.
Safer than buried in the back yard
usally it doesnt rain and no wildlife in a security box
And temp controlled
Hdds main source of bit rot is temperature cycling
Irrelevant tbh. Store it in a PVC container or something along those lines. Temperatures are generally stable underground.
They are not unless you dig pretty deep
sure, if its a HDD you want to store, I doubt most people have data that exceeds a usb stick thats worth to back up
They usually have surge protectors as well
And eitherway, HDDs can go through a bunch of temperatures when they're not powered.
@sly wadi Yeah, some do.
USB sticks lose data after a very very short amount of storage
Just a few years
USB flash drives are not good for backups.
Yea but the data itself still vanishes
The best medium that is cheap is vacuum sealed cds
Excuse me, what?
The DVD (common abbreviation for Digital Video Disc or Digital Versatile Disc) is a digital optical disc data storage format invented and developed in 1995 and released in late 1996. Currently allowing up to 17.08 GB of storage, the medium can store any kind of digital data and was widely used for software and other computer files as well as vid...
The military did a bunch of tests on different mediums and that was their results
Idgaf about uncontrolled testing
¯_(ツ)_/¯
Should work fine
DNA degrades very quickly
Oof
Microsoft's project crystal for using glass crystals to store data already exists and is extremely dense
Interesting
Also it's pure quartz not normal glass
Ah alright
All magnetic based media will have their bits rotted away eventually, including HDDs. Even if you seal it away. That's just the nature of the product.
optical media has it's own issues.
surface damage. Chemical exposure. humidity. oxidation.
Ultra-violet lights
No not really. DVDs have a plastic type of coating over the reflective layer which helps make it more resistance.
I'm not gonna argue with the military
I'm not saying you should. I'm just stating the fact of it.
And we aren't talking about read only media
I am talking about writeable media
Disc Rot is more likely ot occur when the aluminum coating of the reflective layer oxidizes and DVDs have ti better protected.
There's no aluminum in writeable discs
aye. and to get that data you still need the laser to reflect off the disc
Yep
It reflects off of the die...
no?
DVD recordable and DVD rewritable are optical disc recording technologies. Both terms describe DVD optical discs that can be written to by a DVD recorder, whereas only 'rewritable' discs are able to erase and rewrite data. Data is written ('burned') to the disc by a laser, rather than the data being 'pressed' onto the disc during manufacture, li...
"Like CD-Rs, DVD recordable uses dye to store the data. During the burning of a single bit, the laser's intensity affects the reflective properties of the burned dye."
The reason pressed cds use a highly reflective layer is you need a lot of the light to be reflected to cause the destructive interference
The burned die just absorbs the light instead of trying to destructively interfere
I have returned
am glad optical media is pretty much dead
@astral haven what is that specifically only the writable ones?
the first wiki paragraph explains it
Read
yeah and I did and I was asking for confirmation to make sure I didn't mis-read it or some shit
cause it's possible RW and ROM could have entirely different stuff going on with whats inside it
So was asking to confirm.
I explained both
Do you mean the difference between CD-R and rw?
Rw is complicated enough that if you don't understand how the pressed ones (rom) work you definetly won't understand the rw
mostly if it had, like, enough of a different layering or protective coating or not. There's something different enough about it enough that suggests in tests it has a lesser lifespan than R
It's using phase change magic based on temperature control
So heat cycling the rw will rot the data
yes and most of us are also older than that
Also CDs and DVDs happen to not inherently bit rot over time like hdds and ssds
Both last forever in a vacuum, but CDs last longer according to the military's testing
Older than that. DVDs are 26 years old and CDs are almost 40 years old.
am curious as to the results : can I have citation?
The U.S. Department of Energy's Office of Scientific and Technical Information
Look at the parts under test
They are testing up to tlc
The U.S. Department of Energy's Office of Scientific and Technical Information
sure but I'll go with the most up to date on the findings
🤷♀️ works too
What you linked is for physical documents lel
It talks about electrical components but doesn't test them
Link the updated version of you find it
aaaaaaaaaaaa physical documents? still reading
didn't mention specifically papers or such
What you linked was a paper summarizing the need for the testing
ah
yeah thats what it looks like once I got further
another one I foudn was the exact same document. maybe edited and resubmitted
this makes me scream
What I linked was also just a presentation of results
But it at least includes part numbers
okay I found a different one in 2020 and it includes pictures in its PDF LOL hold on checking
nope not that one either
Welcome to searching for gov docs
the 1142543 doesn't have anything regarding optical media
the one you linked last*
let me check the other
@astral haven where in this document does it mention anything about CDs or DVDs?
Hunh it is a different document
Firefox is taking inspiration from one of Chrome's most annoying features
the useless tab dropdown thingy
TIL chrome has that dropdown menu
yes
idk just dont use it then
why do 4k videos barely fucking stream on phone
but work perfectly on pc
on youtube
Cuz ipawn bad
Your phone's issue
Mine works great even at 2x speed
funny how zen 4 is really just "I'll take one zen3 core extra small" yet so much faster
11pm
the problem is it buffers all the time
for whatever reason
And most everything has been iterated on...
Could easily be the decoder having an aneurysm
Clearly the solution is to get better internet
yeah it just looks funny if you look at the macro layout how similar it is, obviously has massive changes in many areas
1440p is usually fine and 4k is never reliable
so fucking annoying
So use 1440p?
image not as good
Your iphone screen is what 1080p
Hold the phone further away lel
slightly bigger than 1440p, no
And compressed 4k is 1080p color data

Look up 4:2:0 chroma subsampling
Are you sure
yes?
Cuz pretty sure it is slightly below that
oldest youtube tip, if it loads run a resolution above your monitor or at least above 1080 for better quality since codec is better
IPhone 12 max or 13 max both have 2778 x 1284 screens
slightly bigger in one dimension
Wrong dimension lel
good enough 
3200x1440 
anyways, 4k still looks much better than 1440p at least because of the increased bitrate
Oh
Oh wait no it's 3088
Close e enough
and downsampled video has better sharpness
But yea
YouTube 8k looks better than 4k on a 1080p screen even due to bitrate
Downscaled yes
Not downsample lol that would be bad
activity just never goes above 2300
what is this trash
barely keeping up with 15s readahead at least
Yay apple modems
let me try in browser actually
youtube is cockblocking higher resolutions in browser
neat
Blame apple
i should try and investigate how it acts on my 2020 ipad pro

Bandwidth is having an aneurysm ofc but it's 200 down network connection
0 buffering
i genuinely don’t understand what they fucked up
my internet is fine
videos in other apps stream on ios just fine
Vp9
it is completely fine on pc
but apple added hw accel for vp9
Yes but for what reaolutions
specifically 1440p and 4k
4k60 tho?
they weren’t available in the app before they did
apparently available just to google via a private entitlement
good, please use hevc
Would be nice if discord used it
x264 master race
if I was going to make a custom keyboard from the ground up PCB software everything
Where would I begin
@reef patrol
@hexed gyro
Engineering school? 🤔
What does wooting use to make their keyboards
also please dont randomly mention founders
computers
and it doesnt matter if u use kicad or another tool
stupid ass boy
the main thing you want is understanding the electrical wngineering side so you dont order 2000 failed prototype pcbs but only 50
its just laying out components
as i already mentioned any program for pcb cad
/shrug never used it
k
I want to design a keyboard like this with a thumb joystick
In this detailed video I jump in and look at the process of ordering, customising and building a Ferris Sweep Compact as well as a little bit of commentary on the Ferris layout and what it’s like to use.
Watch next:
Surviving with 34 keys: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wZ8FRwOzhU
Shout out to Kyek for making a great walkthrough video: ht...
it would be so good
so do it
he's not stupid for mentioning using computers to design keyboards imho, if you want a different response you should ask for how the designs are drawn and such
or assembling
that little keyboard will not be easy to design lol
you'd need a 3D printer for starters
with kicad
right
best you learn to use it
or ask the founders directly here
(if they're not busy - don't spam ping)
also, isn't that just a miniature spacebar
but designed to be as wide as the thumb to minimise footprint
Keep in mind too, that its easy and affordable to make sure - but have fun memorising the letters/learning to type on that then reverting back to an ordinary keyboard
Software engineering for your very own keyboard is a little far fetched for a complete beginner too :p All in all, be prepared to make it a long term investment
k
Have you decided keyboard before
and do you know where I can buy magnetic joysticks
For no drift
it doesnst sound like it... thats whats happening
Electrical engineering would be the most important. Mechanical design can be hobby'd.

