#Yet another 5020 toolhead (Clogged hole/AMOGUSBURNER)
1 messages Β· Page 5 of 1
smth similar is used to measure drone thrust
again, per PID, the cooling should be minima
Hmmmm I get a puny 0.76gπ€£
No shit sherlock
Wouldn't the glass of water not mainly measure down force?
Which is not what I'm looking for
yes but also absorbs sideway airflow
otherwise you can just put scale under fans
but you miss like 70% of the airflow
π€£
Yeah I basically get the same result doing that
water helps averaging out airflow
that's all
otherwise you can just do a cardboard box
under the nozzle
and pray
I think I'm just gonna do a benchy and see
Just gotta redo my config since cosmos update wiped it
I fucking hate it
if my meth is not wrong
5cfm~5g
not taking into account a lot of things
but should be a good ballpark
ahm
or 8.5 m/h
what
rotation distnace?
it is called poorman skew calibration
it is working tho
I measured it myself
cause you have no skew calibration on v9
ok now please tell my why there isn't a skew correction section
oh
why are we on v9?
you are shitting me
How do you get the PWM signal into the graphics ?
click on power
no?
please tell me that there is a better reason
aren't we on klipper v13 now?
atom hasn't had enough alcohol to finish the updated .cfg's
the config is from elegoo os
π£οΈ
no one fixed it
ohhhhhhhhhhh i thought it was on purpose... and never noticed it
@tropic gazelle
poop
indeed
or just klick here π
broke my external one earlier when I was taking the fans out, and I want to seal the chamber better
π
ok that's at least the same ballparc even tho there are a lot of ignored variables
at least i'm not completely off
btw @tropic gazelle if you use the tz's thermistor make sure to change it in the config
Off to another test
You know, I forgot we could do that now
I just used the elegoo thermistor again
Yeah one of the things I really don't like about the way the config is done..
I wonder if one could simply overwrite it in the save config
The thermistor config?
Not looking too hot
For thermistor stepper and other stuff
In Cosmos? Yeah, I don't see why not?
Looks too hot
Shite
I need to do some fan restriction testing. That's the part I didn't do cause I didn't have the fan
Yeah it's basically the same
either u don't know how to print a speddbenchy or your cooling is literally dog shit
that's no cooling
π
Yeo
I'm gonna bet on too restrictive
The outlets are really small
orrr the fan suckss
that's not to be excluded xD it's the cheapest one i could find
but i'm pretty sure it's choking harder than @green berry atom when flaming hartk
My fans are due to arrive tomorrow. I ordered them from Ali...
Clogged in the end what was the power draw of the fan ?π
The specs sheet and the sticker on fan say 2 different values
y thats why i was asking
tasty tasty
aand the setup seems repeatable enough to get a good enough curve
ok that's more than accurate enough
so for a bambulab 5015 you want to be at about 150mm^2 outlet cross section...... first duct was 52 π€£ π€¦ββοΈ
at least that's a good learning experience
@green berry can i have your opinion on this?
does it seem reasonable to you?
btw if there were error bars they would be huge, but the trend still seems to be accurate enough
technically you can calculate/measure the outlet speed
and you should link that to your fan ouput
and then u can do some trials on multiple sizes
and then u can just edit the ducts until you happy
bernuli?
to you mean rpm?
what is downforce here?
weight measured by a scale with the duct blowing into a glass of water
and the duct is a cone which i cut down progressively to increase diameter
yep that's it, and that's the highest i managed to get out of it
that was with the fan basically in the water and splashing everywhere
so tl;dr restrictive duct + underpowered fan
also take the actual numbers with a grain of salt. my setup is jank to say the least
where does the curve stop suddenly
150ig
altho the formula is fore sure with area
so +-
yeah i think that fan to fan and duct to duct variations will make this a bit different too.
doing the meth to get veloity
i think i severly fucked something up in the simulation
red is outlet velocity but very approximate
think i'll aim for 120mm^2
that's still more than 2x what i initially had
Hope this one works well
Added more angle to it as well as doubling the cross section
need to revisit the geometry a bit but this looks not bad
@green berry vibe check?
gonne buy some wine monday
i'm doing it
just had a crazy week
same xD but nah .enough to throw wine at a random racoon
i really hope this goes well
Hurry up! I'm ready to test it π
tell that to simscale xd
if you want a diversion you still need to change the connector
Already done π straight after the photo
π
i really should get openfoam setup to have faster simulations....
kinda tempted to do a testprint before the simulation is done so i can test it right away
the new one????
yep
working on a new new one now
gonna prioritize real life testing above simulations now
but it's still very good to have a sim to find what's going wrong
btw @green berry got 2 local wines
that's a picture of all time
you chewed on it?
nah 1 wall print with bascially no infill and with well sub optimal cooling
the black one looks clean
there is no black one
that's a risky thing to say in the clogged hole
i will clogg a hole alright
hows the sim going baby
did @tropic gazelle also have issues with cooling?
maybe its your fan
yeah but i doubt that the fan is that much worse
Thatβs a good point. Iβve already started a print job thatβs taking a while. But I can test that tomorrow with my fan
Videos aren't helping me. I want to print something π
well it's helping me see that the duct is a lot better
and the fan just seems to be utter dogshit
OK. I'll give it a go tomorrow with the fans I've got.
will send you the latest file
Mind doing a toolhead for this beast?
what you need is a chube
i'll make the same rule, if someone sends me chube i make toolhead for it xD
What if I send a super volcano?
then i send a bioweapon back to sender
does the toolhead need heat inserts or anything for the eddy or just screw them in until they catch?
exactly, like every printed thread you need to be careful, but the ones i used are more resistant
So no heat inserts just screw? If so gotcha!
Took forever to get the eddy housing off cause most of my Allen wrenches are too big lol
Maybe it's worth having a wide duct that narrows sharply at the end. Keeping airspeed and thus boundary drag low for the most part and speedimg up in the last bit
Sorry i just tought of you when i saw it π€£π€£
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DW6HG2pPXiS/?igsh=ajcxNTI1cHR3cG90
@tropic gazelle. btw please don't print this, this duct design doesn't work that well.
Proxima_v14.gif
You just want me to print it π
@clever charm
Are you to work on a new toolhead for the Canvas?
Given the price and the underwhelming performance of this one, I'll probably be doing that yeah
@drifting tusk gave me photos with measurements of the magnet placement on her protoype canvas unit. I can dig those up for you
Magnet is 3mm
could've just forwarded the message lol
Idk I usually don't if it's in the seekret channel
I don't think I can see it if i don't have access to it
So as harry found out you might need to check what the min duty cycle for the fan starting to spin is. you can mitigate this with fan kick start in orca, but you still need to check at what duty cycle% it stops spinning
or via settings in printer.cfg. 0.3 was my test. I need to find the sweet spot now.
But with 0.3 the 5015 for the p1s is running up from 0 to 1% without any problems. without this setting ... the fan stops under a level about from 15%
as always, without any guarantees or prior knowledge π
good ducts when
Apparently they aren't too bad now, the bridge test indicate that they are better than stocm
Also I might try to make it work with canvas afterall
I first printed the latest version of the 5015 toolhead cleanly and then ran this test with PETG. I used Orca's default profiles without making any changes.
https://www.printables.com/model/98909-speed-bridge-bridging-test
Starting at about 195 mm, the bridges no longer sag. π π π₯
@green berry Latest version of the 5015 toolhead ..... π
is the 3mf from @clever charm π
1.8a Y?

1.4
What warranty? That's an Elegoo product. π
Atom's warranty
i'll try @ 1.2 .... just 4 u π»
I just wrote that using Lizard π
"I have so many radial fans lying around... Axial fans don't make sense here, in my opinion... A nice airflow over it... Add a radial fan... and you're all set. This little fan from Elegoo just blows air around down there without any direction."
1.2 test is running
and then ... i'll try 1.8.
@green berry You told me to do that regarding the warranty
@clever charm Atom made me do it π
It is funny
We have lizard and lizard killer

1.2 ... no temp warnings !
go 4 warranty π
let's start
My hand is on the emergency stop button
it will be too late
tmc has 2 errors
warning and error
if u get to error it means your drivers at somewhere near 150C
or more
warning is 130 iirc
so if u get red notif instead of yellow
get a new mobo
to late π
It's really fascinating what the CC1 can actually do....
π
Solder joints can withstand temperatures of around 250Β°C... right?
ok ... got a layer shift :/
π’
okey we need fan for drivers
noted
no ... we don't ned them g Let me say something silly for a change π π»
Thank you...
cause of you monsters
it doesn't happen at 1 or 1.2 A

yo
@tropic gazelle
btw @tropic gazelle @vernal harbor if you want me to link to something in the credits lmk
What are you thanking me for? Thank YOU
cause you did a shitton of testing that confirmed that i just have a shitty fan
and you pushed me to the carto mount π
i expect a full bed mesh in less than 10s
But don't forget the note about the starting speed π
yep just added it
Just saw it... even with a Carto mount β€οΈ
yep
i think i'm deliberately not gonna say anything about carto
if you know what you're doing you know. if not well then you don't need to know
π»
told you bruh dont ever doubt yourself gang
well the first duct design probably actually was shit
though i think @tropic gazelle has it so he could test it if he so pleases
yeye internet confidence is king xD
i should learn
My username is something like @vernal harbor_4792995
btw... eddy mount? I can't find it in the current file π
well its time to upgrade from the ACCTC to proxima
is there any links where i can get the 5015 fan?
nope, but i can give you the link of the fan i got, which i can strongly recommend to avoid
$4 fan $6 shipping lol
typical ali
Turns out that my cooling issues was just plain stupidity on my end with a 0.6mm nozzle
I did a lot of stupid shit
It's safe to say that a 0.6mm is strongly not recommended for printing proxima
I mean people did worse than that
well with bigger nozzles you print bigger but not faster
it is faster cause less layers
Yeah I still lost an insane amount of time scratching my head
and bigger layers = needs more cooling
Now I wonder if the tighter ducts don't actually perform better
I mean it's easy enough to test now that Ive got a shitton of different designs flying around
the bigger the better π
Now imagine all of that with a 1.0 nozzle π
Although... I actually have a 0.8 for my TZ4 here to test
OK new ducts are a lot better than the old narrow ones
And with that I think that development is done for a while
https://www.reddit.com/r/elegoo/comments/1t308ap/proxima_toolhead_for_centauri_carbon_a_ultra/ finally did it
It's ok just do what se3d does and do no no real testing and claim a huge improvement anyway
CPAP WHEN!?
WHY ARE WE YELLING??
When someone sends me everything needed for it
I'm not throwing unnecessary money at the cc
OC fund

bruh you were fast
I am free today
Had to do a lot of tests
Blood test
how's your liver?
Still working

Where my french wine
Also i have -300 euros until end of month
it's sitting here, with your constellation. waiting on me to not be lazy π€£
2 qb v2
Car parts for side job
Canvas
List goes on
I am literally poor
Amd today took day off for health reasons
not to sound like a dick, but shouldnt you have a job that is pretty lucrative?
Lucrative, maybe, well paid nope
That's why i have to do side jobs
wdym?
eitherway i hope that you get a job that pays enough
I have 100 euros left per month
are you self employed?
No
Engineering pays shit
Welcome to romaninstan
Is this where you annoint the centauri carbon with a liberal slathering of goat blood to test if it soothes it's hateful spirit and causes it to print better?
water also has a lot of internal friction. I don't see how this would translate well into anything meaningful
still haunts me
yeah from my testing the results are basically the same if going into water or not
First layer could be better but is fine
@green berry out of curiosity where exactly do you work? I mean for the knowledge you have its weird to be paid low
no wonder i was having cooling issues.... it's amazing how over time of stuff just working you forget the basics
π€ why would this cause your undercooling issues? (am dumb)
It would make the fan spin at 85% for 6s layers, basically making it just go fast in really short layers
Also my undercooling issues weren't undercooling but extrusion issues 
a sad attempt at hiding the amogus π
you have to embrace the amogus
Don't you dare spread the amogus
Nope not really, just noticed my shitty pla profile 
Also doing a print which depended on cooling to function
And I'd love to know but it seems that between 70% and 100% there is a humongous speed difference....
But my tach pin is dead so I can't know
I believe we might have the same fan. I can maybe check and report back
oh yeah would be nice to have a pwm rpm curve
i'd like to make one but i'm unable to
inside the duct?
Fan in question: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010017903310.html
The reported RPM was a little noisy so I took what seemed like a reasonable value between the fluctuations.
I took this fromn the UI in Mainsail, but maybe there is a better way to do this?
Ye
i mean the trend curve is pretty clear to me, im omore than good enough
promfessional
Did a second pass at 5% increments. Interesting how much it can fluctuate
9% is the lowest the fan will start at
I also have one of these if you wanted me to run the same test on that https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0G43DMXRF
Yeah at low speeds you have to take hysterisis into account
It should draw a parrelogram of sorts
fancy ass shape
Noice. I didn't have any issues with the screws splitting the print which I did with the 5020 version.
@clever charm idk if we're still doing this π€·ββοΈ 5.3g at full pelt
I think it's fine, but I need to find some right sized button head screws since one of the cap head screws I used very slightly collides with the cutter and moves it ~1-2mm
5.3 is great
altho you should use water on top
Don't got any
I turned it all into piss
some days it sure feels like it
yeah thickened that part quite a bit as a consequence!
holy shit....
xD that's closer to the result i was getting
Okay, yeah, I think my tare fucked up on the first result. My bad.
1.8g, no water. Went to 0g with fan off, so seems a valid result
yeah that seems a lot more in line with what i've been measuring
btw @clever charm, could absolutely be user error, but I think the uploaded Proxima 3mf includes full printer, filament and process settings. You normally just include the object settings, right?
Fuck

is okay. i just cursed your bloodline while i set everything back
should be fixed on printables now
Actually, we do have the speed pins for both fans on the toolhead listed in machine.cfg... but they aren't being displayed. In OpenCosmos, however, a warning would appear if the fan wasn't spinning....
mine is being displayed... at 0 i think the pin is simply broken
btw tach is a bit broken, there is an issue on the cosmos github
Thought yall might get a laugh out of this @noble mesa @clever charm . Every single time I go searching for something on aliexpress I think about how everything I am looking at is probably coming from the same factory line 
loooool this is too accurate.
@clever charm heard you like fans?
but what about two of them?
or this?
Baller
Yooo another 40mm thick fan toolhead
dayum
the fun part is that it has the exact same power usage as the stock 5020
quite a lot more efficient though I imagine
i think most fans are that xD
how much of the noise is the server psu fan? 
otoh small fans are better for static pressure iirc
who needs static pressure when you got a good duct
also have this pisstech fan that's a bit more powerful
0.5%
very quiet PSU
Just measured. Measurement probe in the nozzle at the nozzle tip.
that's not good
Both use the same stock sensor. One is configured like the Elegoo, and the other is configured with the Kalico NTC100 adjustment.
what are the results for generic 3950 then?
Give me a minute
hey I've got one of those!
mine blue
@clever charm
sorry can you explain what is going on here, this is reading with a thermistor inside the filament path and the original sensor at two temperature?
I compare the actual temperature at the nozzle tip with an external measuring device. βSOLLβ is the temperature measured by the thermistor on the hot end. βISTβ is the temperature from the measuring device.
ah that makes sense. And this is allways with the same stock thermistor?
jup
Mine is literally less than a foot away on my desk π€£
I also have one of these
Max and min bed mesh parameters for this tool head?!
same as stock
Asa is not heat resistant enough
wtf are you printing? peek?
Nah just plain asa
Good to know. I still have some PA6-CF lying around. π
make sure to anneal if you go that route
But floppy voron gantry looks funky
π
Why is my bed mesh off?
And that was PA6? .... Crazy!
yes, never used and no belt strung, just the weight of the motor
congrats on inventing self adjusting geometry
On an other side note I shorted the heater leads with a screw and now its at 100% all the time
Welp i think it's time I buy an ams..... Need new fan and toolhead board anyways
Now you understand me when mine meltedπ₯²
lol
half of my reason for buying canvas
https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1B88cLM4ty/ @clever charm
See posts, photos and more on Facebook.
Lol no
I dint really understand as much as commiserate
But I'm starting to have a suspicion that happens in the first layer or while heatsoaking
I have my bed at 110c and as @tropic gazelle found out that's an understatement
Prob that was the problem on mine too asa wanted only 110 from by buildplate any lower and would not stick
I had better adherence for sa on the diamond patern plate than the default textured one
SE3D has a newer design that doesnβt use the pegs as screw mounts, only as guide pins with a separate plate to hold the fan in place. Works great. Waiting for his next one for the CANVAS system (has a magnet to detect cover popping off).
@clever charm's is much better
Yours is too
Starting by not unnecessarily restricting airflow
And not being a wet noodle of stiffness
true but at this juncture yours has better airflow optimization than mine and the mounting for fan is better. the magnetic connects are a nice feature for people that want it but I really need to port your design changes into gamma soonβ’
ye. but also its kind of not hard to beat a design done by someone who advertises printing a chamber heater fabricated out of two bambu heaters and pentium heatsinks in HTPLA. the bar is not exactly high 
I'll stop being a catty bitch now
@vague adder any explanation for that combustion powered chamber heater btw?
god damnit don't ping him right after I was talking shit
I was doing it too, lets go down together
lol
Also last time he got pinged in here it wasn't necessarily better
So I think there isn't much to save eother
what happened then? I forgot
#1466083137967755356 message
OK it's a lot less direct
lol I forgot this discourse
Where's this coming from all of a sudden?
#1466083137967755356 message
Welp i think I can say that I told you the reduction of this
But yeah just coat your filament to make it esd
pahahahaha
how much did you print
Found this one on Amazon. Will test soon as it comes tomorrow
also, does round or hex fan cutout have any differences in performance
probably yes, but not in an amount that i could measure or that would matter for printing
Just had a though... Adding canvas and cc2 support should super easy for acctc
how deep is it placedx?
is it at the same height as the fan?
ye
@drifting tusk do you have an idea how thick the magnet is?
ok this looks a bit goofy, but i think it will work
the 5015 I got was originally for the Adventurer and the pinout was VPRG, elgoo is PRVG. If you have the Bambu fan, I have no idea, the ribbon cable doesn't use colors instead opting for shades of grey and the fan pcb is unlabled so you're on your own
oh I just saw your amazon link. looks like ground and v would be swapped on that one. This is the other bambu fan on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FXV26NWN?ref=fed_asin_title
3D Printer DC24V Extruder Hotend Cooling Fan 5015 for Bambu Lab X1/X1C/X1E, 50x50x15mm with Dual Ball Bearing 4.08W 0.22A, Cooling Fan with Cable Line 7800 Β± 10%RPM
Specification:
Model: DC 24V X1/X1C/X1E Extruder Hotend Cooling Fan
Fit For 3D Printer Models: Bambu Lab X1/X1C/X1E
Item: High Qual...
I thought that just the photo was greyscale, but no, the fan came in the mail and the fucking ribbon connector is actually shades of grey lol
lol thatβs horrendous
6cfm 7800rpm mine is 10cfm higher rpm but cost is cheaper?
I should maybe add on the model page to check for the pinout.
My fan has 3 different power ratings, I straight up don't trust the numbers unless it's from a reputable manufacturer and seller
add that you need to transplant the connector as well. pictures of stock pinout and replacement ones can help
Any idea what the pin out is? Black = ? Red? Gray? White? I have a package of micro connectors that I can splice in to make them work.
#1466083137967755356 message
@heady coyote You can just rewire it. Just use the Elegoo connector.
I understand, I do like to keep my Elegoo parts as is.. thatβs why I have the micro connectors.
so much more quieter than stock
oh sleeve bearing? thats less good
It's still better and quieter than the Elegoo Stock 5020 π
I want to convince Lizard to make a 5015 version π
https://meltbro.de/d3vil-design-HoneyBadger-D3vilDesign-Devil-Design-DevilDesign-5015-radial-luefter-fan-505015-typhon-typoon-blower-stealthburner.html
i just realized that the fan i bought and installed is a 5015 not a 5020β¦
oh of course, but the concern with sleeve is durability, they don't last nearly as long especialyl at high temp. I'm a bit skeptical a regular 5015 would work well in this config, for stealthburner you need to dissect it for a reason.
Normally I would reccomend gdstime or the beserker fans but the former doesnt come in 4 pin and the latter is out of stock. these are some other good options. it looks like the the snapmaker u1 and flashforge ad5x/m fans should work
https://www.r3men.com/products/5015-wide-outlet-blower-fan-2-pin-r3-fan?variant=48281912180979
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809962779984.html
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256811343538643.html
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256810492910488.html
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809727523946.html
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256811697339699.html
for the proxima one it should be 5015
ah shit would have been good to have this yesterday
i got the one where the wide mouth exhaust comes out so i had to grind it down
yeah speed on this is suspiciously low for the listed current draw
iβm tripping, just saw the title and thought it was supposed to be 5020
oh yeah two different toolhead covers
https://a.co/d/0awtPPRl
This is also a good option. Pinout is the same as the stock, just need to transplant the connector.
and of course 1 day prime β€οΈ
oh this looks good, is competitevly price and is available on prime. I've not seen this exact style before
not my model btw
Oh I know. I meant someone should remix the proxima for the Canvas.
I'll look at it, but just putting the magnet onto the daughterboard screw is smort
What I don't like is that it's only a stl
No step nor 3mf....
And I got a bit of free time on my hands again so 
So I spent my weekend modding a toolhead so it works with the canvas unit on my CC1.
Does the filament hub swivel?
Swivel?
Like turn on itself
No
The cutout this big sacrifices quite a bit of structural integrity
Thank you, that was me π
I have to disagree. This feels solid when screwed in place.
Thing is there isn't really a thing as solid enough, everything you get into it being more solid translates into cleaner prints. That's also the reason I went a lot more solid for proxima
And there is a balance to strike with mass, but that's one of the most structurally important parts
Good point and I dont know enough to say anything sensible about those specifics
But I am going to keep using this toolhead for a while. So how it holds up and what my results are going to be from now on.
I like the design.
Do you mind if I backport the adjustments you made so that it works with eddy and different customisation options?
That magnet placement idea is really a gamechanger
I can send you the files tomorrow, I have 3mfs
That was just a lucky break.
Dont think I'll need it, the stl will do aswell thank you.
@drifting tusk could i pwease hawe a picture of the toolhead front daughterboard with the front cowling removed? from the front side and top pwease uwu
not at home atm
I'm in a pizza shop with a friend rn
coding
xd
anything in here that's useful for you? https://photos.i.devminer.xyz/share/rGVpoCHUZpAjO77uxj2CMECa_wulsXSgxWEM7iaKFf3lOWh73bXb3BTJ6fWYz0xwbC8
you rock
oh shizz
@frigid star how well does the magnet stay in place? does it also stay under extreme accelerations?
oh also reading your changes, i'd recommend keeping the intake hole the same size i did
also same for the ridge, though i'm gonna make it smaller as it's indeed a huge pain in the ass to get the fan back out
I mainly print PETG and it stays in place. I could load up a roll of PLA and run a ludicrous benchy to make sure.
Hmm interesting, so airflow on the Y-axis? I think the hole I put in it is 33-34mm.
Would someone be willing to do some tests for me?
I think I have a canvas compatible version that should work but since I don't have it I can't be sure
I am busy
I can test later
what changed?
Not much, just some minor cutouts to fit cc1 canvas inspired by what gekkeur did
What do you need tested?
Ive had chirimorin help me, but basically doing the same thing you did while trying my best to preserve strength
Printed on polymaker ASA and with a microswiss hotend she's getting a little melty. I have some Fiberon ASA-CF coming in the mail for another project, which has a 10c higher glass transition temp, hopefully that does the trick.
Protip: avoid polymaker for ABS/ASA and and generally for midrange materials, they are only decent at either extreme
I'm using PETG now, but seeing this makes me thing it wont hold up. PC has a Tg of 140+Β°C, that should be fine right?
sure, if its real PC
but thats an if
a lot of pc on the market now is half PETG or ABS
lot of undisclosed blending going on on unfortunately PC mixes with a hell of a lot of plastics well
if you do have real PC you won't be able to print it in a CC without a chamber heater. Even with a 70-75C chamber in my V0 I get warping if I am not very careful with settings
I would just go with ABS or ASA.
All new information for me
pet-gf will also work well. I didnt even anneal my toolhead cover and it hasn't warped. tbh it probably annealed during long abs and PPS prints. The downside is pet is much more dense than abs/asa
I did go through one spool of polymaker clear pc on my cc.... printed a new bedholder and toolhead for my ender 3 v3 ke, and a lamp that sits on my heating radiator. So I need to look into what you are saying
looks like polymaker sds only lists it as being >80% polycarbonate so unclear what elese is in there. TDS says Tg is 113 and HDT is 99 so its probably got some petg in it but should be ok for this application since it is still pretty high and creep wont be so big of a deal for a cover
Thanks for showing me this!
So I've had the same issue. For me it was during preheating, that the toolhead was too close to the 110c bed and just had no chance to survive
Maybe that phase needs just a little bit of air movement to keep the plastic from heatsoaking and getting soft
20% part cooling fan
Probably more distance, proxima goes a bit a lower than others and it seems to be just enough to keep in mind while heatsoaking
I had that happen on 100%
Took a blowtorch to it and it's back flat but eh not the best solution
Probably will reprint it out pa612-cf when I do the cc1c/cc2 version
fiberon pa612 cf has been holding up great for me
@deft ferry could you measure how thick the filament detection board is? basically this distance. rn i have my mockup at 5mm
that's the metallic grey part
what happened to u broser?
this maybe makes it makes more sense
heatsoaking the chamber with bed at 110c and the cover basically sitting on it
ΒΏ?
oosh
what material?
elegoo asa
tf and it's melting
mainly how far it sticks out the front, the rest is less critical
well 110c bed with a lot of airflow to help it heat up xD
omg
you did the image
sorry
exactly
i'll give u the measurements
ye currently making the cc1 canvas and i guess cc2 with non stock fan version
cant you take a design from someone who made that weird thing
stock fan cc2
but mb it's better to use that 5020 fan
tbh i struggle to see the point, i'll adapt the 5015 fanshroud for the cc2, but having it be constrained to use a bad duct and a one off unobtanium fan is not great
okai
what screws i have to buy?
I have been checking but i am not 100% sure that is what i found
2 M3x14 BHCS https://www.amazon.es/AERZETIX-tornillos-metΓ‘licos-fijaciΓ³n-elementos/dp/B0FXFTR6BQ/ref=sr_1_4?__mk_es_ES=Γ
MΓ
Ε½ΓΓ&s=industrial&sr=1-4
1 M3x12 FHCS https://www.amazon.es/QUARKZMAN-Tornillos-Phillips-M3x12-0-5mm-Completo/dp/B0G5PZRGSQ/ref=sr_1_2?__mk_es_ES=Γ
MΓ
Ε½ΓΓ&s=industrial&sr=1-2
um for now i haven't even modified it to fit the cc2, but i'm gonna modify proxima for it
the m3x14mm countersunks might work, but i'd recommend button heads for securing the fan
as for the back bumper i'm going to modify it to accept the stock screws
alr
@frigid star can i steal your picture to add to the description?
you printing glass?
hahaha
man i feel stupid
why hahah
i think proxima supports every centauri carbon printer now
and it took 1h30
fucking dogshit attitude
all it took was +1.5mm and a different front cutout
now ideally someone with a cc2 and a 5015 fan wants to test it xD
5015 is stock?
nope
stock is a weird cast in place 5020 odball fan that only exists for the cc2
Only screws that aren't in the toolhead already are 2 M3x14 iirc. It's on the printables
How is the CC1 fan mounted/attached?
I don't have these screws in the cc2
the black ones i guess m3x5 work
but for the fan its m3x14 iirc?
It's not this fan, that's a 5020.
I should really split these channels up as there are 2 different toolhead for 3 different printer configs in here
That is the stock fan from the cc1
Mb i can convert stock cc2 fan to 5015?
Printer is ending soon srry for the waiting
Took more time than i expected
Tyvm! So my 5mm assumption was wildly off
Yep
You can plug whatever 4 pin 24v pmw fan into it, yeah. Just check the pinout first
So cc1 is widemouth 5020
Cc1 canvas is the same
And cc2 is custom "5020" but only the fan blades and nothing more standart
Then there is the proxima toolhead which uses common widemouth 5015
never ever! Stock is a 4pin 5020 widemouth
Can you tell me what should i buy including fan for the cc2? Thanks haha
Im lost
There are 2 options. I'll detail them later when I have the time
After I finish rebuilding my cc1 I could print the tool head cover and try on my cc2
oook
i broke the propeller of the 3010 fan
cant i just replace it?
hard to get fast delivery 3 wire fan
I mean yeah Iβm sure there is a model somewhere
but is good to take it off?
without breaking it
i can get a 3010 fan but only 2 wires
But being as small as those fans are, any fdm printed blades would be hella fragile
Could always try super gluing the broken blade lol
So about that fan, the new one is loud! Louder than the partcooling fan. Any silent options?
the 5015? There aren't really silent options that wont be much worse. within the same form factor flow/static preassure strongly correlate with fan speed, which strongly correlates with noise. You can of course turn fan speed down on any higher speed fan to get the same effect as a "quieter fan"
3010
same story on the 3010
you need to run it at very high speed to get the required static preassure
I meant tje 3010, should be more specific, sorry
i think its not very good mounted
The 5015 is noticeably less loud than the stock 5020, tho that might also just correlate with performancr
bcs it does vibration
about 50's, what one i buy? For cc2
the 3010 needs to be at least 12k rpm if you are going to match the oem
yeah the elegoo fan is stupid high speed with 0.5 A draw. I think its the duct that kneecaps it
It's the 0.10A original from elegoo what i am going to get
elegoo said it was 12k rpm as well, its the only fan with have an actual speed spec from them
lol 0.10a 12k rpm
For cc2 then i get the 5015?
if you replace the fan any cc1 duct that supports canvas will also work on cc2
but 5015 or 5020
π
the duct just has to be designed for the fan in question
So for now 5020 is the only option, but I'm working on making the 5015 work aswell
so both
okay
thank you man
bruh i feel the pressure xD
good work good work
keep on it
still dunno what scrws to get xD
can you tell me what screws for the toolhead the cc1 uses please? @clever charm
it depends...
for acctc (5020 stock cc1 fan) you can get away with no extra screws.
for proxima you need 2 M3x14BHCS
for cc2
i am not making a toolhead cover that uses the cc2 fan
the only fanshroud i am doing that works for the cc2 as of now is acctc https://www.printables.com/model/1575497-another-centauri-carbon-toolhead-cover
but i'm currently also working on making this one compatible for the cc2 https://www.printables.com/model/1694872-proxima-toolhead-cover-for-elegoo-centauri-carbon
again xd
I have the cc2 and i need to know what screws i need (i don't have any stock screws for the toolhead cover)
just that
just the 4 scews 2 left 2 right
and the ones on the back
#1466083137967755356 message
only 2 screws?
proxima compability with cc2?
xD
Sorry fr
oh ok you are making proxima compatible
yes i think only 2 screws for the fan, but confirm
xd
yep that's it, the rest you can reuse stock
i am lucky
i got the 3010 and the 5020 original elegoo
and from a local shop 2h from me hhhhhh
π
get that cover @clever charm
check the CAD, all fasteners are there
i got it i already know what to do
I'm gonna start asking payment for micromanagement
Hahahahas
I need 5020

Are you making proxima for 5020?
No
how much?
5020 already is available for cc2 and it's the acctc
Doesn't need to be, the fan is so overpowered that it doesn't need a complicated duct
oh proxima works for 5015 and 5020 you say?
i don't know if you're trolling me or not
proxima is 5015 only
acctc (another centauri carbon toolhead cover) is 5020 only and can be used for the cc1, cc1 canvas and cc2
Ok i have to explain that my english is quite bad
I didn't read that good
Well i say it bcs i like proxima, and want to use it with the 5020 that's all
yeah but that would still require you to buy a different fan. the cc1 fan and cc2 fan are not the same. they are both technically 5020 but the cc2 has a one off shroud
btw i think proxima for cc1c and cc2 is ready to be tested
who could i ping to annoy and help me test
@fallow orchid π π π₯Ί uwu?
huh what's up
would you want to test a 5015 fanshroud for cc1 canvas and cc2?
maybe later, currently playing gam with friends
cc2 is tricky as the fan is molded into the thing
yeah it uses a off the shelf 5015 instead of fudging with that
basically just uses a bbl fan
With the 5020???????
xD
NOOOOOO
AAAAAAAAAAAA
π
na
or I shot
then shoot
hhh
wdym?

there is some pain that i'm not accepting money for
yeah at least 67 euro
it's just that it would take a shitton of time to get it to the same standart as proxima
you can go up a bit if you want. but proxima has took 9 cfd simulation runs
wow
that's what i'd recommend, it's a lot lot lot less loud while improving overall cooling performance with proxima
Good job
oke
not me
ok so here is the first version of proxima which should support the entire centauri carbon series
if anyone is willing to test this on their cc1 canvas or cc2 i'd be very happy!
Proxima_v19.gif
key differences to released proxima:
- moved fan 3mm forwards to allow for filament detection board clearance
- top cutout bigger to accomodate hub
- back bumper has teeth to better stay in place
There are different ones available, but it doesn't show in the preview
i see
Not really, the size is on purpose
yep i noticed
realistically the fair price to comission something like that is in the hundreds of euros. you are paying someone to spend several hours doing difficult CAD work given the duct design, and probably also new CFD modelling.
Again once I finish building back my cc1, I will print a proxima out of PA6-CF and try it on my CC2
Does this use stock fan or 5020 fan?
stock fan is 5020
atcc (the original start of the thread) uses stock cc1 fan proxima is 5015
I have 2 projects in my queue, once they are doneβ¦. Iβm printing this. Getting prepped for my CANVAS to come in.
proxima uses 5015
don't waste filament
My brother look above. Lizard just posted one that is suppose to fit both cc1 and cc2
really?
Just scroll up in chat. Itβs right there
.
btw the 5020 from the cc2 don't work for acctc
you have to get the 5020 from the cc1
+the custom "5020" from the cc2 is shit
Trust me that's a good thing, the whole reason this exists is cause my 5020 burned itself out
TF how?
Bcs is not powerfull enough or w?
You mean the wires?
Too powerful for not enough cooling on the electronics
lol
It has a stupid amount of power and didn't like long full speed operation at 65c
At least that's the most likely thing that happened to my understanding
Why tho...
xd
@clever charm
Why are you showing me this shit?
just
Omg it's a bowden stealthburner... This really has made my day worse
Because you are trying to dissipate 12W in a very small fan hub right next to some cheap bearings. Thatβs an ender 3 hotend running at 30% power
Incidentally I toyed with the idea of dual 5015 Γ la archetype mjolnir
Why are you posting this absolute degeneracy in my server lol. Stealthburner, moar liek shitburner amirit? SMH
looks funny
Sounds like your age was cut in half, but I couldnt agree more π€£
Do you want me to delete it?
lol no itβs just stealth burner is comically bad by modern standards
Itβs a meme at this point
voron
I mean thats not a voron. That is just a stealth burner on an ender 3v2
That's @green berry when you ask him where his macros are π€£
Sorry bb for pinging u
@green berry needs more beer! π» π» π» π» π» π»
yeah, fan
tf
Fan dont go reeeeeeeeeee anymore
accthc coming up
hmm @clever charm
How the air goes out?
or that is just to support?
And what about the screws?
That is a premade support that you remove after printing
Same with that
ooo ok
They pop right off
Thank you sir
π€
Suppose to use the pegs
this?
Yes
pssst, read the description of the model you are printing
The official audio for Bing Crosbyβs Frosty the Snowman.
Listen to βWhite Christmasβ by Bing Crosby here: https://bingcrosby.lnk.to/WhiteChristmasAlbumID
Listen to the Bing Crosby β Christmas in Lofi album here: https://bingcrosby.lnk.to/ChristmasInLofiID
Follow Bing Crosby:
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/officialbingcrosby
Inst...