Yet another 5020 toolhead (Clogged hole/AMOGUSBURNER)

[novel spruce]

Velocity stack its supposed to increase and stabilize airflow for intake

[clever charm]

i think that's mainly somehting for pulsed airflow, with the fan we have pretty much constant airflow

might just be wrong tho

[novel spruce]

still for ease of printing if you wanna add a velocity stack it should be separate atachment

[clever charm]

i think i'll leave it with the integrated one. If you want to make one i'm gonna make the step of v3 available as soon as i'm done with the clip pegs

[novel spruce]

https://youtu.be/_AWFRv_4c_g

its for radial fans but it manage to be the most efficient at cooling kind of a duct like that im thinking for the front

[novel spruce]

id love too but i dont understant how to make a curved shape in fusion

[clever charm]

so for the intake duct i didn't use my brain too much: i made a loft between a circle and a bigger cicrle in the front: crucial part is to set the inside profile to direction to make it smooth

[novel spruce]

can you make a v3 with the circular duct not the hex one?

[clever charm]

or for this which might be a tad more complex, a sketch with the cross section of it that you revolve along the centerline

[clever charm]

v3 has both 😎

and i've setup the project in a way that i can add as many front duct shapes as i want with minimal effort

[novel spruce]

What color combo would you suggest to base all my mods to the cc from now on? XD

[clever charm]

i'm kinda biased on this

[novel spruce]

i mena combining them

i dont have black i would have gone for green black

[clever charm]

hope that this very phallic peg works nice

[clever charm]

you could play around in orca with this, just play around with the filament colours, but imo your best odds are to have the hex modifier as a negative or just not at all

too much colour conntrast imo

[novel spruce]

now this si the peg we deserved

[noble mesa]

Reminds me of those aboriginal groups in Australia that split the penis down the middle…

[clever charm]

my day was better not knowing this. thank you very much

[noble mesa]

Hey you brought it there first, I just said it out loud

And could be worse, I could be encouraging further scope creep instead.

[clever charm]

if i make the fusion file availble, everyone is repsonnsible for creeping the scope xD not just me

also

https://giphy.com/gifs/moodman-rude-winston-U8e4BlEJmb2aPQTAIu

[novel spruce]

same....

[clever charm]

so i don't even know what i was thinking with the pegs xD

they are wayyy too flimsy and don't even fit

gonna try this now

[clever charm]

getting closer but not there yet

attpemt n3

[clever charm]

It works!

@novel spruce if you want to try those

[blissful vigil]

Clip_Pegs.gif

[clever charm]

i might still prolong the cutout a small bit to reduce the risk of cracking

[novel spruce]

nice work

rn im at work so i cnat mess with them but i would like to print the new version fo the case too before i need to take the one i have now off

[novel elk]

Guess I am gonna wait to print this till yall perfect it 😛

[novel spruce]

oh comon be part of the trial and error crew XD

[blissful vigil]

peg.gif

[clever charm]

printing them out of pla to simulate bad layer adhesion

[clever charm]

how should we do this? want me to include it with the other files and credit you, or do you prefer to add it as a remix?

welp testing it out first but i don't see why it shouldnn't work

[clever charm]

V3 out now !

https://www.printables.com/model/1575497-another-centauri-carbon-toolhead-cover

[noble mesa]

Oh I don't care it took me <5 minutes to mock up so you don't even need to credit me

[novel elk]

Maybe v3 is the one I finally print 😛

[novel spruce]

https://www.facebook.com/share/r/1FCSyrzS6s/ shipment for v3?

@clever charm any ideea what migth do this or if i can mitigate it somehow?

It started to deform the left air duct

[clever charm]

asa?

[novel spruce]

Yup

[clever charm]

well uh shit

[novel spruce]

Had the same problem with protings skeletonized version i think this one laster more cause more thick

[clever charm]

welp ducts are in the same place as stock

i wonder if annnealing it would give it that extra tiny bit of inmproved thermal resistance necessary

[novel spruce]

Ugh not really in the market for anealing at home 😅

[clever charm]

yeah makes sense.. also annealing without fiber reinforcments is a risky endeavour

what is a fix is to use a tz hotend, there is more clearence between the hotend and ducts. my inital petg prototype only has very light warping

[novel spruce]

Yeah i wanna build the constelation extruder but now kinda scared if it warped like this just being arround it
Also im that stoopid and id need like a list with the links exactly where and what to order

[clever charm]

maybe nudge bacon to try to get affiliate links for that stuff xD

[novel spruce]

@noble mesa Preatty please? 🥺

Id be down to try pc or paht cf even tough it scares me to try them

[clever charm]

go for pet-cf 😏

pc is a bitch and paht-cf might creep out of shape pretty quickly

[novel spruce]

What are the pet cf specs

[clever charm]

ok i went ahead and made that more complicated than it ever had to be

[clever charm]

uhm good

[novel spruce]

Led diffuser?

[clever charm]

idk what heat resistant clear filament exists tho

that is also not horrible to print

[novel spruce]

Is there that much heat in that part anyway?

[clever charm]

it's a few mm from the buildplate

but under no real load so it might as well not matter

[novel spruce]

O yeah forgot about buildplate

[clever charm]

here it is

[novel spruce]

White asa thin walls?

[blissful vigil]

Body2.gif

[clever charm]

yeah that might diffuse a lot better than clear petg

[novel spruce]

How did the pegs come out?

[clever charm]

really nice. hope that they work well for you too xD

gonna use the clip pegs from now on

[novel spruce]

Did those make any weight reduction ?

[clever charm]

uh probably

but rigid mounting >>>>> weight so it wasn't really a concern

[clever charm]

hehe fresh render

[alpine quartz]

is the duct design the same as bacons?

oh no it’s similar to the stock

[tight ibex]

yes it is

[clever charm]

yep, same duct with improved intake

[alpine quartz]

ahh

i wonder why his is warping

[clever charm]

tho it's only a matter of time until bacon adopts this and they're in cooling performannce

[alpine quartz]

is yours updated with the new airflow design

[clever charm]

yeh just uploaded the improved version

[alpine quartz]

great

[clever charm]

the cooling ducts after the fan are still identical

i don't dare touch these witout some extensive testing and maybe some cfd before

[alpine quartz]

time to turn on the HEPA filter and run asa cf

yeah i mean why redo the whole duct bacons works pretty well already

[novel spruce]

Mined too hot

[alpine quartz]

what ABS/ASA do you use

[novel spruce]

Elegoo white asa

I have theory but idk how to even test it

[clever charm]

what is it?

i'm pretty sure that it's just the hotend being very close to the duct

[novel spruce]

The heatbreak fan pushes the hot air directly there and it softens int just enough so that the part cooling fan deforms it with the airflow

Cause its deformed upwards not hanging

[clever charm]

that might be due to the internal stresses of the print too maybe?

[novel spruce]

Idk thats too advanced for me XD

[clever charm]

you could set the nozzle to 51 deg and put your finger there to feel for airflow

or maybe 20 i don't quite remember how elegoo setup the heatbreak fan logic

[novel spruce]

I think the best option for default nozzle would be a specialized duct from the heatbreak intake to exhaust but that defeats the purpose of your design

[novel spruce]

Il try that but in the morning im too tired to get out of bed now

[clever charm]

that's... early

i guess you don't have a daytime working schedule?

[novel spruce]

Hey i was nightshift and slept 4 hours now i have to wake up in the morning for a 12 hour shift

[clever charm]

yeah i think that that's a bit complicated

[clever charm]

best of luck

[novel spruce]

My schedule is dictated by chaos and how higherups mess with the schedule

Il try to feel for airflow in the morning before i leave for work and will tell my findings

Where should i check escaping downwards around the nozzle?

Or just the side?

[clever charm]

i guess below the nozze?

on the sides you wil just have the exhaust

[novel spruce]

Understood lets hope @noble mesa gives me a full list of what to get and where so i wont have this problem 😆 where did you get your pieces? Did you also change the gears and the bearing?

[alpine quartz]

@clever charm On the clip pegs for the fan, what are the 2 small triangular pieces

[clever charm]

Wedges to lock the clips extended, basically improving mounting rigidity

[alpine quartz]

Ah got it thats what i imagined

[noble mesa]

PMMA/acrylic, but its not that heat resistant and is kinda horrible to print from what I hear.

[noble mesa]

oh you only need ASA/ABS for constellation, its less demanding temp wise than the cowling is because its further away from the extruder.

which constellation do you want/what matters to you most?

[clever charm]

hmmm i can get some for 30coin/kg

[noble mesa]

you could also probably cast it in platinum cure silicone pretty easily. its also nice to have around in general. a little bit of talk or something similar would help it diffuse light

I know someone else here was using it, but that was for other reasons™

[clever charm]

Beyir?

[noble mesa]

lol I dont recall who and dont wanna be accused of profiling

[clever charm]

I could also remain with my petg until it melts and ruins a multi day print

[noble mesa]

as is tradition lol

tbh you could go with that clear polycarbonate filament. its probably blended to hell but it will likely be better than petg

and the diffuser would not be a hard print

[clever charm]

You mean the pla pc that was shown on here recently?

[noble mesa]

? never heard of pla pc

more like this https://shop.polymaker.com/products/polylite-pc?variant=39574343516217#productinfo

[clever charm]

Wasn't there a pc filament that was 70% pla?

[noble mesa]

oh wait I forgot about that, it wasnt this one.

or you could try pushing the scope creep to 11 and using PEI. you know if you keep it hot enough when printing its translucent

[clever charm]

good luck xD i might be safe for quite a while still

hang on a sec, those are really close to the cc's capabilities

i'm gonna stay at pet-cf with improved annnealing for a while

i hope

[noble mesa]

Nozzle temperature 360 - 390 C -
Max. melt temperature 410 C -
Print bed temperature 160 - 190 C -
**Build chamber temperature 150 - 170 C **

here is a full reccomendation sheet from another manufacturer. its the last one that is the biggest killer

[clever charm]

just need to use my chamber ac xD but no no non o i donn't dont need nor want it

[noble mesa]

my god I need to build a printer that can do PEI so I can have an 10 minute PEI print goin on the same plate a chocolate chip cookie is baking

[clever charm]

how would pei fumed cookie taste?

[noble mesa]

tbh prob wouldnt taste much different

[clever charm]

welp i don't know if i will ever make a new duct

[noble mesa]

hot damn

[clever charm]

yeah noped out of that one, luckily they have a youtube series

[alpine quartz]

I have a love hate relationship with ANSYS

[clever charm]

if i get stuck on stome stuff can i ping you with it? xD

[alpine quartz]

sure, but ive only used fluent like 5 times

[clever charm]

that's 5 more times than i have

[alpine quartz]

Autodesk CFD is enough for me...

[alpine quartz]

well you might be better off looking it up... but i can try...

[clever charm]

yeah i'm gonna ingest the whole youtube series to start and then see xD.

[alpine quartz]

good idea. i started off with their youtube as well

[clever charm]

welp it's not free :(

or i gotta be fast with it

but i doubt that i will find the time to make an entirely new duct in 1 month given that i've never done anything close to this

[alpine quartz]

how are you getting ANSYS access?

[clever charm]

student version

[alpine quartz]

autodesk has student plans too

[clever charm]

from what i understand it's basically a home use version like with fusion

[alpine quartz]

and it gets you access to fusion, revit, everything for free

[clever charm]

thing is that i'm not currently a student

but ansys doesn't seem to check that

[novel spruce]

Shh dont let them hear you

[alpine quartz]

ahh i see

[novel spruce]

Well im thinking sf but the cs sounds good too wich would you recomand? Im not aiming for hf , i want the least parts that gives me the most advantages

And sf sounds like the middle point

[noble mesa]

ehhhhh I mean I'm partial to HF because it is only $10 more. The only advantage SF gets you over CS is standard V6 nozzles and that doesn't really matter unless you want something specific as the TZ nozzles are pretty fine.

Do you change nozzle sizes ever?

[novel spruce]

I mean so far i didnt change it from the 0.4 but i like the option

Also no idea what the benefits of the v6 nozzle is

Welp bathroom break over back to sleep 🤣

[noble mesa]

ECAS04: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808722345135.html

MR84zz:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808722345135.html can be salvaged from extruder but not reccomended, the abec-5 is better quality than the abec-1 but both are probably at least as good as what elegoo installed

M3 BHCS I think this should have everything but you may need to find one or two shorter ones, just double check the BOM but I think 6-25mm is fine https://www.amazon.com/VGBUY-600pcs-Assortment-Printer-Stainless/dp/B0D1457XQ3

if you do SF or CS you will need to find two short M2.5 screws, this is up to you- maybe steal them from an old computer or buy a set of 20 or something on aliexpress since you only need 2x 4 or 6mm long ones.

TZ3.0 for example (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809118871222.html) I recommend this for SF and HF base. if you do CS you can also use this but the similar TZ4.0 gets you cold nozzle swaps.

If you do SF or HF you will need a V6 nozzle. If you want cheap and good price/performance just buy bimetal (same goes if you need one of the TZ style nozzles with constellation CS if you choose TZ3.0, they have it on the TZ3.0 page as an option. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805883789790.html

If you do HF buy a melt zone extender: This one is what I reccomend as it comes with a silicone sock
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808212338358.html

[clever charm]

10$ more and worse extruder control

Also I lost my mze and it pains me to buy a second one

[noble mesa]

you can use standard nozzles you will be able to use down the road on another printer. IMO it makes no sense to buy an expensive nozzle like a $120 diamondback for the CC because its more than likely you will never be able to use it on any other printer. You want to buy a pricy nozzle you want it to be something in a standard format.

It also gives you the option to do moderate priced stuff like solid tungsten carbide nozzles (the best nozzles IMO) for $45.

[noble mesa]

how do you loose an MZE?

[noble mesa]

I mean true but thats also true of chube, its just the nature of long melt zones

[clever charm]

Idk it kinda just wet to get milk and haven't seen it since

Might have been got by a vaccum cleaner

[noble mesa]

lol revenge of the cow

[noble mesa]

lol you would have heard it

will probably turn up, if its the DLC one its dark enough to roll somewhere and not be noticed

[clever charm]

Welp idk anymore... Also it's probably at my ex's place so the odds of me getting it back are exactly 0

[noble mesa]

also who cares about extruder control wen...

[noble mesa]

exgf or spouse

not sure which is less likely

[clever charm]

Reaching 35mm^3/s with stock tz and cht. Wonder what a mze would do

[noble mesa]

should bump it up to 43-45 prob

[clever charm]

Ouch

[noble mesa]

but at that point you are cooling limited

[clever charm]

Do I come across as this old?

[noble mesa]

I honestly can't tell how old are you

[clever charm]

Not if i got mega super duper ducts

[clever charm]

22

[noble mesa]

oh so gf I am assuming. although I was engaged at your age. ask me how that ended

or bf, or non-gender-specific-f, I don't discriminate

[clever charm]

Welp i was smart enough to not add legal stuff to this 🤣

Moving out on Christmas eve was shitty enough

[noble mesa]

good plan- though you dont get the tax breaks. At least we didnt have any kids

[noble mesa]

oh damn that sucks. So are you the asshole or are they?

I assume them since you were the one that had to leave

god thats terrible

sorry about that

[clever charm]

Oh you can get legally bound without marriage where I live, so you get tax breaks without a lot of the problems that come along with marriage

[clever charm]

Dw

[noble mesa]

I hope that MZE breaks their vacuum...

[clever charm]

Probably both, but mainly her parents, which is quite the issue given our age

Dodged a bullet with that one

[noble mesa]

oh living with parents or just overly involved?

[noble mesa]

lol other way around for me, my inlaws call me often still, ex never talks to them

[clever charm]

Just overly invovled. We had planned to get a shared apartment and they did everything possible to make this not happen... Moved in with my gf and they then threatened me to get a shit job rapidly or they'd kick me out. Given that they have literally nothing to do with any of this I just fucked off

[noble mesa]

yeah dodged a bullet

[clever charm]

Gave me a nice reality check and made me understand that I'd been making quite the amount of bad decisions with my studies

[clever charm]

You know what... Ill get a new mze... Screw you

(kindly)

[alpine quartz]

Looks great, fits perfectly. I used the hex modifier as a remover for the front part. And on the back, Printables says to use a M3x12 but I found that the OEM screw fits better

[clever charm]

I should've printed with the negative, that looks awesome!

[novel spruce]

The fuzzy skin makes it look like its metal what filament did you use?

[alpine quartz]

Polymaker Fiberon ASA-CF08 Black, used the orca Polylite ASA profile

[novel spruce]

Ah cf its not for me then 🙁

[alpine quartz]

why

[novel spruce]

I have a bad habit of touching my face way to often to be dealing with fibers

[alpine quartz]

Nitrile gloves

exist

I dont have that habit, but i still wear them handling CF or GF because those fibers get imbedded into the skin

[novel spruce]

Yeah but id prefer not to have to take that risk in the first place, i print im my living room

[alpine quartz]

Ahh okay definitely don't then

relocate that printer, PLA/PETG isn't good either to have in a living space

[novel spruce]

well other places arent available i dont think the kitchen is better XD

[alpine quartz]

whats the options lol

[novel spruce]

bedroom living room kitchen bathroom is too cramped already

[novel spruce]

sorry to keep bugging you with this can you give me a link for the bearings?its the ecas04 link)
wich tz3.0 to get ? on the link there are x1c and p1s , should i go for a kit with fan and different nozzles or bare minimum?(kit comes with m2.5 screws)
should i also get new gears ? i saw in another post someone said neptune are drop in replacements and better (cant remember exactly)

[alpine quartz]

just look up the bearing type on Amazon or Aliexpress
tz3.0 either one works. you’re gonna be using the stock fan anyway and nozzle is up to you
neptune 4 gears are better, they’re a proper bearing with a needle type

correct me if i’m wrong bacon

[novel elk]

neptune 4 gears are better and work as a drop in replacement for cc ones.

[clever charm]

what gear? the main extruder gear?

from what i can tell they are both exactly the same with the same bearings

[noble mesa]

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809175647670.html

You always want the X1C option because it has a heater that will work with the CC (or you can just buy the X1C 60W heaters seperately. you reuse the cc thermistor. you also want to reuse the CC fan.

The m2.5 fan screws that come to secure the X1C fan is too long, you neeed them to be shorter than that.

you can buy new gears but don't buy the CC ones, they aren't really better. if you want new gears the best upgrade is the neptune 4 gears which are identical but have a real needle bearing in the tensioner gear and not just a plastic bushing

[noble mesa]

oh just saw this- yeah this is all accurate

[clever charm]

oh that's why i never noticed cause it's hidden

[noble mesa]

nah, its the tensioner gear- the CC one is just has a plastic sliding bushing

[clever charm]

not sure that the neptune isn't a bushing tho

gonna check

[noble mesa]

and I would generally reccomend TZ3.0 as a safe low cost option for every configuration unless you want to do the absolute cheapest TZ2.0 config- or you want to do the revo-like swaps of TZ4.0 on constellation cs

[novel spruce]

Are the nozzles that come in the kit with the tz good for the purpose here? I decided to go with the hf after all can just prin another one if i dont like it

The neptune gears i find harden steel and + dlc coating wich would i go for?

Also what are the connecteds on the pcb called? I should get some just in case

[alpine quartz]

i mean, the nozzle that comes with the TZ hotend is good enough

i don’t see any reason to swap it

[alpine quartz]

They’re JST-XH type

[novel spruce]

what size ? i saw there are different sizes to that too

[noble mesa]

they are fine, solid steel so a bit lower flow. the bimetal ones are kinda nicer but both are fine

[noble mesa]

you don't need the DLC coating, I just got the regular steel ones.

[noble mesa]

are you talking on the thermistor or heater? They are XH on the hotend, I am not sure on the thermistor, much smaller. Just reuse CC thermistor anyway, you'd need a crimper to crimp a new thermistor connector.

[celest vector]

first time I've ever seen this used unsarcastically

[celest vector]

great for small stuff

fuck that I want the autosampler 😂

[noble mesa]

you can get them pretty cheap I got this one for around $80 shipped but they are always floating around pretty affordably if you search proxeon or easy nlc https://www.ebay.com/itm/254839189906

THK rails not mediocre hiwins, 2x mgn9h linear rails (I think 290 mm or something), one thk dual mgn7c dual carriage rail (110mm maybe?)
also comes with a beefy rear fan one regular stepper, one noncaptive, leadscrews, nice misc hardware, and you get a beefy rear ebmpabst fan with a pelier cooler and 2x CNC machined copper heatsinks for it. Oh and you get a cute little crossflow fan for the rear heatsink

honestly those rails are prob worth $100 considering they move a dozen full cycles each day for a few years max

the LC gradient on these systems is measured in hours

[celest vector]

tempting

convert it to a mini pipetting robot

[noble mesa]

hell you can get a whole easy nlc system for 600 bucks now

[celest vector]

why tf is it built like a tank, it's just liquid handling, no?

[noble mesa]

Oh yeah autosampler also has these tiny integrated lead screw nema 8s for the needle movement on the dual carriage rail.

The other stuff is the rotors and pump blocks on the easy nlc

[noble mesa]

it probably started life as it is because it was a low volume device at proxeon, then thermo bought them and didnt change anything. they still cnced proxeon into the sides a decade later. Realistically when you are pumping up to 1200 bar the fluidics compenents are expensive enough where overbuilding this part prob doesnt matter as much but I agree its a bit silly. its the most overbuilt autosampler ive seen

[celest vector]

whoa, they even threw a 2-piston stirling engine in there :P

[noble mesa]

And a tungsten carbide sabot round!

Never know when you’ll need antitank support when doing proteomics

[celest vector]

average professor / PI office

[celest vector]

also tungsten or tungsten carbide?

[noble mesa]

I believe they used the carbide for this particular size. I was hoping it was depleted uranium but sadly not radioactive

[novel spruce]

Ah ok i asked cause they the same price as for the plugs i mean all the plugs on the breakout board im scared il brake one, i barrely managed to unplug them when i soldered the led even witth the printed tools

[noble mesa]

if the thermistor connector daughter board breaks which is really the more likely thing then you have to have to solder it back on. I don't really think replacement connectors will help as it will be just about as bad doing a new one vs old one

[novel spruce]

@clever charm hear me out this shape for the intake 😆
https://vm.tiktok.com/ZNRPk5DXX/

[keen cosmos]

Only downside is you'd need to leave the top off the CC for the blimp to hover, so you'd be limited while printing engineering filaments 😆

[novel spruce]

I fking love this coment

[clever charm]

There is nothing stopping you

[novel spruce]

I dont have the cc by the window to get the blimp that high-up and i think neighbors would steal it

[clever charm]

Those are some weaksauce excuses

[noble mesa]

don't make me ban you. We don't need to go back to the thingiverse special days

[novel spruce]

sorry i dont really know that refference

im too new in the 3d printing world

[noble mesa]

back in the day this is what everyone thought peak performance looked like, at least everyone on thingiverse

[novel spruce]

welp im guilable so id probably fit rigth in XD

no clue aout aerodinamics

[clever charm]

I think that lots of people still think that that is peak performance by the looks of printables

[clever charm]

Only adds 2g!!!!!! Barely makes it worse

[tight ibex]

The HeroMe, a classic

[clever charm]

That's how I mounted and routed the endoscope bte

[clever charm]

hey so i might be starting to work on implementing eddy

[clever charm]

hehe funny sketch

[mossy pecan]

The goat

[clever charm]

@drifting tusk

[blissful vigil]

cover.gif

[clever charm]

https://www.printables.com/model/1575497-another-centauri-carbon-toolhead-cover/files test version out now. Anna should have hers printed tomorrow to testfit.

[drifting tusk]

which way to print?

ah, on the side

[drifting tusk]

alright, so

this part is too close

on my eddy, that part is 10.2mm wide

other than that, it fits

[clever charm]

nice!

[clever charm]

can you maybe file it down rq?

[drifting tusk]

yeah, did that with a knife

fits

can't check the height between nozzle and the coil, since I disassembled my toolhead yesterday xd

[clever charm]

oh i should get the xy offsets measured too

[drifting tusk]

hm, the Z spacing looks weird

iirc the coil should be 2-3mm above the nozzle tip, but measuring it is like 4.2mm

[clever charm]

cad sais 3.8mm. i must have been wayy too tired 🤦

[clever charm]

btw thanks for crashtesting this

[clever charm]

i think i understand how it happened..... fusion does this funny thing where it sets intial position coordinates to relative at random... so i must have shfited more than planned and not double check afterwards

[clever charm]

so that's the probe offsets.

z offset is 2.2mm so that it doesn't need to cut into the toolhead

[clever charm]

Now to try to convince biqu to send me a eddy uwu

[clever charm]

your face when you discover that the eddy cad doesn't have the switch lever and you need to add a cutout for it

[high sun]

Neato! Just ordered an eddy, figure it'll live in the CC at some point

[drifting tusk]

@clever charm can you adjust the Eddy's Z height to 2.5mm from the nozzle?

also, damn, I only have m3x6mm countersunks at home 😂

[clever charm]

is 2.2 really that bad?

[drifting tusk]

2.2?

it's 4.2mm xd

[clever charm]

the newest version is 2.2mm

[drifting tusk]

oh wait, you updated printables

didn't see that

did you update the 3mf?

[clever charm]

that's the current one

[clever charm]

yep... that's the reason i am lazy to change it to 2.5mm xD

[drifting tusk]

then it's fine

[clever charm]

with those you'll get about 0.2mm of thread engagement xD

or you skip the cover and use m3x4 BHCS. iirc you could steal some from the side panels

[drifting tusk]

hm fair

time to reprint

4h

*3h

[clever charm]

petg again?

[drifting tusk]

ye

I have loads of black PETG laying around + it won't go onto my CC anyway because I probably won't have screwholes in the same place and the nozzle will be at a different place as well

[clever charm]

oh.. why are you printing it then?

[drifting tusk]

testing?

[clever charm]

thanks for the beta testing tho

[drifting tusk]

problem?

[clever charm]

damn i'm not used to people actually doing it xD. i'm used to always pester them and then still end up doing it myself once i recieve the parts 🤣

kinda like sims with the elegoo rfid tags... i bet he would have his answer the fastest if he just bought some new filament

[drifting tusk]

just fyi: the eddy negative doesn't work

[clever charm]

why? it's on support blocker by default, you need to set it to negative

[drifting tusk]

that makes more sense

lolz

[clever charm]

yeah i setup the 3mf so that if you don't touch it you get a working normal toolhead

if you want more go get it

[drifting tusk]

makes sense

[novel spruce]

@clever charm did you print yours in asa simple or fiber infused?
i had to revert mine to the normal one cause if warped too much and made my prints spagety

[clever charm]

simple asa. and it didn't move even in a 70C chamber, but i think that the tz hotend gives me more room to not melt the shroud

[novel spruce]

🙁 fml

[clever charm]

I can recommend sirya tech pet-cf. You can get it on Amazon.de for 30€/kg idk what other Amazon locales do

[clever charm]

Or constellation

[novel spruce]

yea constelation is prepared but i wont order it yet cause i wont be home when it arrives XD , also can you link me the parts you used for the gantry upgrades?

if im gonna dissasamble the extruder might aswell do other upgrades too

[clever charm]

yeah the gantry needs the whole toolhead to be disassembeled so might as well. If you chose to do pet-cf that would be very cash money of you

and also anneal it

[novel spruce]

im reluctant of the fiber filled materials already also annealing wont be on my to do list

[clever charm]

https://www.printables.com/model/1535090-centauri-carbon-runice-toothed-idler-blocks done

[novel spruce]

oh i didnt saw you made a bom with links thanks

[clever charm]

i added it just now xD

btw thanks for all the testing you did for this @novel spruce

[novel spruce]

i just like to be included XD

tbh if i had more experience id test more stuff but some im scared id brake or dont knwo to put back together XD

[clever charm]

As i said before, it's already a lot more than i'm used to xD. i remember making a part for a drag chain for someone, just for that dude to ghost me for a really long time. so i just tested it myself once i had access to my printer again

also i often feel bad for making people test stuff for me, cause it's usually a waste of filament

[novel spruce]

btw since i put the og cowling back

i say the difference in power is huge

[clever charm]

i'm gonna check in the cad if the cooling duct is that much different, but holy shit

well looking at the original ducts i'd like to know what they were smoking now

but i think that they are different enough that you can't really compare the downforce 1:1

wire anemometer would the correct test for this

[novel spruce]

it has alot of space where they can escape air

[novel spruce]

welp il probably never gonna have a need for one so i wont be able to test

[clever charm]

oh yeah... looking in the cad you can see that... also very abrupt changes in cross section

might be a bit difficult to see, but the gamma duct points a lot more downwards

[novel spruce]

so anything in short the design was made in paintXD

[clever charm]

they probably had their reasons... but the oversized fan and meh cooling performance speak for themselves

[alpine quartz]

i hate the model fan, so loud for no reason

and there’s no COTS replacements

[novel spruce]

some people made a cowling for 5015 fan

[alpine quartz]

5015 4pin tach exists??

[clever charm]

isn't that what most bambus use?

[alpine quartz]

i brought this up with bacon a while ago, to his knowledge it doesn’t seem like there is a good replacement for it

i trust i him more than myself 🤣

[clever charm]

tbh i don't really see the point of going 5015 over 5020

[novel spruce]

im really salty about my cowling warping sause iw as thinking of making a white blue one

[noble mesa]

5015 bambu ones does, but 5020 does not

[noble mesa]

you sir have made a grave error in judgement

[alpine quartz]

at least you have a PhD

[noble mesa]

The PhD

[alpine quartz]

i know degrees past a bachelors are useless, but not THAT useless 😂

[clever charm]

@drifting tusk did that test ever work out?

[drifting tusk]

yep, fits and looks about right with the Z distance

[noble mesa]

hey I never said it was useless, its doing a damn fine job of keeping my table from wobbling

[drifting tusk]

sounds like it was worth it

[mossy pecan]

Most bachelor’s are useless in the modern day imo

[alpine quartz]

When 3d printing enthusiats use anything but a 3d printed part to fix something

[celest vector]

is this from an official model or the opencentauri cad? because the opencentauri model was made with a lot of guesstimating, especially when it came to complex shapes

[drifting tusk]

https://github.com/OpenCentauri/cad/blob/main/Official Elegoo Parts/front_cowling.STEP

[celest vector]

official elegoo parts means that the model is from elegoo, or simply that they're modeled after the stock parts vs being optimized for fdm?

[drifting tusk]

literally by elegoo

we asked them if they could provide models for all plastic parts and they literally gave them to us

[celest vector]

ooh nice

[noble mesa]

the gamma duct was designed before we got the official duct cad from elegoo so its def different.

but yeah this is real.

honestly I'm not sure which design is better

[noble mesa]

tbh this would make a lot of sense as to why the downforce is higher. I wonder what happens with the official duct since the hole is smaller and there is a taper. the gamma duct could be changed

I need to get my hot wire anemometer module running

[noble mesa]

interesting. just extending the inner anglers of the duct forward lue lines are stock black are gamma. this probably doesnt have too much bearing on actual performance as the angle is going to have limted effects compared to the overall chamber geometry and hole position but its interesting. gamma's internal duct probably also favors more downforce. I also kind of went that route because I was worried some air wasn't clearing the heatblock properly. hot wire anemomemeeter measurement with a mapping gcode macro would be needed.

[celest vector]

overhang print test would probably give more applicable results

[noble mesa]

probably but its a bit subjective which makes things hard. I should do some overhang tests. I did this but like the amount of obstruction on some of those ducts was huge and even then I didnt feel like I could all that accurately tell when warping began https://www.reddit.com/r/elegoo/comments/1lccslf/why_cosmetic_fan_covers_are_a_bad_idea/

[clever charm]

I think the ahi default test is a lot more conclusive on that front. Sure it's still not quantifiable, but you don't only want cooling from a part cooling fan but also to not push everything down

[noble mesa]

wait they have a test?

link pls

[clever charm]

Ugh... Gotta find it

I don't even know where to start looking... It's like a spiral flower type of thing

I think it's somewhere in the a4t channel

[clever charm]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6315375

[noble mesa]

awesome thanks!

[high sun]

Thanks for the design @clever charm! Not the best quality print but it'll do. Probably reprint in PET-CF soon

[clever charm]

Thinking of reprinting mine out of pet cf too, but I'll wait until my asa one breaks or I finally get around making a new duct

[high sun]

A new duct you say... 👀 perhaps I shan't rush...

[clever charm]

Ehhh it's more in pipedream territory than planned. Eitherway there is nothing wrong with using the shroud like it is now if it's in asa or abs

[high sun]

but i yearnnnnn for printing more parts

[drifting tusk]

did you forget to remove the support? 😂 (the hexagons)

[high sun]

The built in support for the top of the toolhead? No, I removed it... though there is a small "lip" left where it broke off? Maybe I should be able to remove more of that?

[drifting tusk]

I meant the hexagons in the front

maybe I also misinterpreted what they're for?

[high sun]

Oh, I removed the built in supports and then installed the screw in posts for the fan mount

a la these

[drifting tusk]

ah

[clever charm]

Still forgot one support, on the top left hexagon there is a contour support to avoid impossible overhangs

[novel spruce]

hey nozzl3 if you do the new duct i wanna be guiniea pig , mby this time mine wont melt

[clever charm]

Will let you know, just keep in mind that it's on the back of the back burner

[novel spruce]

well im not that advenced or commited to try to make my own so il wait like a good boy XD

[novel spruce]

@clever charm mby you already know , i just saw in a video the cc2 has a different duct down there

[clever charm]

Yep, but no cad and no cc2 makes me completely unable to use it

[novel spruce]

concept ideea atleast

[clever charm]

I'm still no closer to start work on a new duct

[novel spruce]

🥺

[clever charm]

Just really busy rn, so I don't have the time to wrinkle my brain with cfd stuffs for now

[novel spruce]

did you start work?

[high sun]

LED diffuser beaming. good shit

[clever charm]

Yep and other life stuff

[novel spruce]

how is the job?

[clever charm]

Exiting

[alpine quartz]

Exiting your job

[high sun]

Ho Lee, Eddy Duo is way smaller than I expected! So cool

[novel spruce]

@clever charm refference pic for new intake 🤣

[high sun]

This is merely a threat for the time being, but it goes together nicely

[novel spruce]

Im too inexperienced does the probe work with default hardware?

[high sun]

It does not

[high sun]

PET-CF hot n ready 🤤

it's calling to me like the damn green goblin mask... but I'll wait for it to come to room temp

[clever charm]

Ooo das sexy, got a setup to anneal it too?

[high sun]

I don't 😭 I'm going back and forth on the idea of getting an airfyer or something just for high temp drying and annealing but... haven't committed yet. Just another thing I got find space for

[clever charm]

Sous vide works, put it in an airtight bag and them boil it

And maybe weigh it down

[high sun]

Might give that a go

[tight ibex]

The back bumper hits the left motor when homing, is this because I'm on stock firmware? I know OC homes Y before X to prevent this

[warm spruce]

I use my wife’s air fryer for drying/annealing… it’s awesome and worth it! Just don’t tell my wife… she used it for the first few days when she got it 5 years ago and hasn’t used it since anyways lol.

[high sun]

I think I'll try and get one of the gourmia air fryers from costco next time I visit - they seem popular for this use

[noble mesa]

what kind of woman (or human really) gets an air fryer and doesn't use it? I got one for food and have never missed having a microwave since.

[warm spruce]

Ya not sure… she likes the oven and baking. She can make a handful of pretty nice dishes, always makes cookies and muffins and stuff like that with the kids. She’s a pretty simple girl and I just eat what she puts on my plate lol.

[noble mesa]

smart man

but they are great fo leftovers

like you wanna reheat those cookies and muffins? air fryer all the way

[novel spruce]

Dosent it deform in the airfryer? Also what temperature?

[noble mesa]

the muffins or the 3d prints?

[novel spruce]

Both would be a good answer but im more interested in the 3d prints

[noble mesa]

you anneal in a pack bed of salt or some other material

keeps down temperature gradient, provides themal mass, and resists warp

[novel spruce]

Oh the salt again i tought it was some miracle less salty way 😆

[warm spruce]

The only stuff I’ve bothered to anneal so far have had 100% infill, so I wasn’t worried about warping and didn’t have any. If I ever need to anneal more delicate parts I will bury them in sand.

[noble mesa]

warping will still happen with 100% infill, 100% is more essential for if you are doing real salt remelting tho.

but it does strongly depend on part geometry

[warm spruce]

About 2” wide by 7” long “hefty” cylinder with 100% infill. Part had 250 grams worth of material lol.

[noble mesa]

oh lol yeah no chance of that warping at all

[clever charm]

on oc it would hit the right motor xD. that's what the bumper is for, and i don't think that there is anything one can do so that the bumper doesn't do the homing

[tight ibex]

Does that happen even on stock cowl? I never noticed

[clever charm]

yep. if it weren't for that i might have gone without a bumper

but tbh i think i would have still done it cause of potential layer skips

[tight ibex]

Interesting, never noticed. Just waiting for klipper release and ill fix that

[clever charm]

you can't

or you already can with open centauri if i'm not mistaken

if you home y first, you risk cutting the filament and even skipping some steps

[noble mesa]

it is fixed on OC

[clever charm]

it hits on the right

it's a consequence of homing x before y

[noble mesa]

it homes y first, then X

[clever charm]

huh? in OC 0.3?

[noble mesa]

In all of them AFAIK

since like 0.2

[clever charm]

iirc it homes x towards positive x and y towards negative y so as to home in the other corner

[noble mesa]

#patched-fw message

oh shit you are right

huh

[clever charm]

makes sense to do it that way, cause you home y while x is at the maximum it will either skip or break something

[lilac zodiac]

hey quick question for you about the screws for the side.

they are m3 screws correct?

[clever charm]

yes, same ones as stock

[lilac zodiac]

because that bottom left screw all 3 times ive printed this toolhead cover seems to crack that piece instantly and make it flush with the the inset .I am using asa and also would there be a way to make it so i could swap them for normal m3x6 or m3x8 screws without the divot on the toolhead cover. i would do it but have no skills in cad design

sorry if thats hard to understand

[clever charm]

sounds like that is a cooling issue, or maybe also overtightening. i'll look into if it's possible to use BHCS instead but it might not work since the printer homes there

[lilac zodiac]

im not saying its not user error just saying for me for some reason only that bottom left screw hole cracks the small back piece off the back side of it.

curently have the current one held on with 3 screws while i print another one will take a photo of that side once its done to see if maybe it is a cooling issue or if im just to strong for my own good ..

[clever charm]

oh it certainly isn't being helped by the design that's for sure, a very thin piece with a screw actively pushing it apart along the weakest axis is far from ideal.

[lilac zodiac]

Thats why i was asking about using a m3x6 or m3x8 screw and slightly thickeming up all 4 screw holes

but as you said you dont know if that would interfere with the homing or such

because i have a bunch of these m3x6 & m3x8 and if it doesnt interfere with homing it would be nice to have those thickened up and be able to use those in the pic.

[clever charm]

i've got a print to start and then i'll look into it

[lilac zodiac]

awesome appreciate it once the new print of your toolhead i got going gets done ill take a photo of that bottom left side to see if maybe its a cooling issue

[tight ibex]

Same lol mine cracked there too

[lilac zodiac]

interesting

i thought it was just me

[lilac zodiac]

29mins left on that print of the new shroud

[clever charm]

looks like it should fit

So it will need M3x6mm

[lilac zodiac]

so does that mean you would be able to thicken up the screw spots and make them flat for the m3x6 screws so there is more surface area so it doesnt crack???

[clever charm]

yep

currently thinking on how to implementing it without blowing up my file structure

[lilac zodiac]

i had to use m3x25 for the toolhead because for me for some reason the the fan screw holders were not deep enough for the stock screws maybe i missed something about that but i actually like how it looks with those screws on the front lol

[clever charm]

oh yeah it was designed for M3x6mm screws iirc

the stock fan screws don't get reused

[lilac zodiac]

ahh i missed that then lol

[clever charm]

just verified the documentation, it's

screw in the fan with 2 M3x6mm BHCS, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN IT. The pegs and printed threads are quite weak so it doesn't take much. If you break one you can just replace it.

also that's quiite a funny picure

toolhead printing itself

[lilac zodiac]

is there a way to make an edit to the front hexes to remove them and add a small bump to allow m3x30 screws to hold the fan in with a nut on the backside??

if i knew how todo cad design id just do it myself

im trying to learn fusion but man a steep learning curve

[clever charm]

not really, the duct design relies on being able to slide the fan in from the top. doing this would make it a lot more difficult to insert it

[lilac zodiac]

that makes sense its all good

oh one sec print is done

[clever charm]

that looks really crisp

[lilac zodiac]

that back piece to that screw hole is what keeps snapping

thats how it keeps cracking for me on that left bottom side

[clever charm]

huh that's weird. does it line up when you place it on the carriage?

i'd hope that the cad that elegoo literally sent is accurate

[lilac zodiac]

yes lines up perfectly

[clever charm]

hmmm what cooling settings and filament are you using? i suspect that the default asa profile completely overcools it for short layers... which makes layers not able to withstand forces like these

i've only managed to break those once by forgetting half the screws and ripping around on the toolhead

my modifiers are as ugly as always xD

[lilac zodiac]

Polymaker ASA and these cooling settings

[clever charm]

oh damn those are good

what chamber temp and nozlze temps?

[lilac zodiac]

my nozzle temp is 275 and chambers temps sit around 35-45c without a chamber heater i have the small heater setup just waiting on the magnets to mount it so i can get higher temps in the chamber

and yes ive tried lower nozzle temps for asa and prints seem to get worse 275 seems like the sweet spot on my printer for asa

[clever charm]

huh.... well at that point i doubt that layer adhesion is an issue

[lilac zodiac]

i mean it looks MINT AF layer wise

[clever charm]

the fusion file looks more and more fucked xD

[lilac zodiac]

i mean that happens when you get hella deep into how it mounts

[clever charm]

this is mostly a lot of overlapping modifiers and support

[lilac zodiac]

ahhh also i was wondering how and eddy would work on this printer without the full swap of mainboard ?

im assuming the mainboard swap was done and thats why there is an eddy option for your cover

[clever charm]

exactly

assuming didn't make an ass out of you and me xD

[lilac zodiac]

i do love the design just hate how they have the screw mounts on the tololhead mount

[clever charm]

the ones at the side for the carriage?

[lilac zodiac]

yea

[clever charm]

it works really well with the constraints of the stock cowling but for this one it's kinda meh

but short from mounting directly to the extruder this is the best solution imo

[lilac zodiac]

yea that makes sense

[clever charm]

@lilac zodiac @tight ibex just delete the countersunk screw modifier and you're good

[blissful vigil]

Front_Cowling.gif

[clever charm]

printables is updated

[lilac zodiac]

nice appreciate it

[lilac zodiac]

that should solve any issue with cracking for sure on those screw holes

if it cracks now then ill know ive put too much tightening force on that area

[novel elk]

Oddly enough I had to shave down the ring near the fan as it was preventing the fan from spinning. But she works now 🙂

Will print a better one later in asa

did this one in abs

[lilac zodiac]

How would one go about removing the slight indent on the holes i believe that slight curve inwards is whats causing me the headaches which is why i asked about a flat surface one for m3 screws i mentioned idk if i grabbed the wrong file or what?

[lilac zodiac]

nvm figured it out i was being a derp lol

[elfin token]

does the 3mf file come with the print settings like layer height, wall generator etc?

[clever charm]

It doesn't i've had issues with orca crashing with certain settings so I didn't touch it

[elfin token]

when printing this, did you change any cooling settings? I’m trying to print it in ASA-CF and i’m having some trouble with droopy bridges, mainly around the fan duct support

[clever charm]

those are the settings i used
do you have a picture of the issue?

[elfin token]

I'll get a pic when I get home, but I'm sending another print with those values now. This is what I had before:

[clever charm]

also i should add that my settings are in a 65c chamber at 30mm^3/s

[elfin token]

1st, 2nd and 3rd attempts

no changes between 1st and 2nd

chamber @ 55 degrees, not sure what’s the speed though, and i’m always confused when people mention speed

[clever charm]

Hmm looks like I should reduce the bottom support distance...

[lilac zodiac]

try this profile for your asa-cf i use it with all my asa-cf filaments

[novel spruce]

@clever charm i need some help idk i changed or what i did but im still using your asa profile and man its giving me a headache

[clever charm]

increase your z offset

[novel spruce]

Any idea what can cause this ? I think im using the newest orca dev

Well thats the thing i did increase it and it started to separate also all top surfaces look like that not just first layer

[clever charm]

also your flow ratio might be different than mine, i have it tuned for my setup. it can vary with yours

[novel spruce]

Doseb show that good on white but its really rough

[novel spruce]

With the flow calibration from orca?

[clever charm]

oh wait yeah one of the pictures is you tuning the flow ratio

woops

but everything i see in the first 4 images is z offset too low

hard to tell if there is something else going on too but that's the main one

oh and i removed the 0.98 flow ratio from my profile too

so that might explain stuff

[novel spruce]

Im at 0.110 at 0.120 it separates...

[novel spruce]

What does that mean ?😅

Any chance this migth be a partial clog?

[clever charm]

i wouldn't say so, but it's easy enough to check. extrude in mid air and see what happends, after it stabilizes you should get the filament going straight down

[novel spruce]

Well it not a clog ... I did a z offset of 0.26 and weirdly enough its the same result now

The straigth extrusion has small bumps sometimes

Thx for the z offset thing but the problem is that it worked before

@clever charm any toughts on this?

[clever charm]

kinda looks like water vapour bubbles

throw it to chef mic

[clever charm]

from what i understand the cc has a unreliable z offset issue. and also different plates can have different thicknesses that throw this off. since the homing isn't done with the nozzle it actually matters

[novel spruce]

i dried it for 8 hours 60 c

[noble mesa]

Z offset being too low. Upward bucking orthogonal to direction of lines is diagnostic

Also the bed warps when you go to ASA temps, yours prob bows upward thus the z offset issue

[novel spruce]

i understand that but why the sudden change it worked normaly

[elfin token]

thx! i gave it a look and it’s based off the same profile I was using, so I just calibrated my filament on top of it

[novel elk]

Can always smooth the ASA with acetone

[novel spruce]

problem is that while its printing it hits the bumps it creates and dont wanna bend the nozzle

[novel elk]

I usually heat soak my chamber to the temp it will be while printing the ASA, then do my bed level right before print.

This is how my Asa came out for the idler blocks I made just using generic asa settings

[novel spruce]

Idk anymore not even the petg cooperates anymore

Same gcode as last one now looks ok idk what to think anymore

[clever charm]

my nozzle is clogging and im elegooning so hard right now 10/10

[round mulch]

My nozzle is unclogged now, you don’t have to worry

But my nozzle did really clog several times when testing out different colors for the hex part, I was extremely lazy switching from ASA to PLA

Very interested to see how the pla i used for color will hold up, if anything happens at all that is

[clever charm]

Yeah that's a ballsy move you did there, but great idea

[round mulch]

Kinda happened on accident first time, was gonna do some testing with purely ASA but forgot the white spool I was going to use to test flow rates for the hex pattern was pla and not ASA

[novel spruce]

does the difuser work with stock cowling? also what material to print it in?

[noble mesa]

no, the underside isnt exposed

(at least I don't think it is)

[noble mesa]

and clear petg might work but clear pc would be better

[novel spruce]

how is the tut for constelation going ?XD

[noble mesa]

oh uhhh... still sidetracked sorry

soon™

tbh I'm prob just gonna do a video on assembly first instead of the full cad docs because I need to remake mine after revising

[novel spruce]

rn i dont have disposable income to order the parts cause i wanna do the cloggedz idlers too and kinda expensive it got

can i find the bambu screw on ali ?

[noble mesa]

maybe, but you don't really need it. the TZ hotends come with m3 shoulder screws, they are not as tight as real bambu ones but they work fine and if you have kapton you can put a layer aound them and that could help

[hollow falcon]

Looks good, but you need to be extremely carefull if you use filaments with cf

Carbon fiber is conductive, and can potentially burn the Btt eddy, as it is so exposed

That’s why on my version I made a small cover, and on the bottom of the eddy I have placed kapton

[noble mesa]

I was under the impression composites are nonconductive because the particles are mostly idolated in polymer from each other

[clever charm]

would anyone be interested in having a bambu 5015 version?

at looking for bambu seems to be the cheapest option

also looking for this fan, i notice how similar the design language is xD, it was not on purpose xD

[tropic gazelle]

oh yes please !

[warm bane]

5015 nozzle or fan?

[tropic gazelle]

stop drinking 😄

Where is a 5020 installed? Not as a nozzle lol

[warm bane]

how can one survive without drinking

[clever charm]

intravenous beer

[clever charm]

Could one fit a 6010

[tropic gazelle]

12070 ... that would be great. Com on Guys .... this fucking 5020 from elegoo ...
I haven't found anywhere yet where I can buy a replacement. Elegoo itself is charging €16 for it, plus shipping.

[warm bane]

i mean their fan is quite powerful

[clever charm]

is that power even needed?

[warm bane]

i mean

a better fan geometry would do the same

so bambu ones are quite good right?

[clever charm]

making that better geometry is not trivial though

just knowing if it's even better is already quite the task

[warm bane]

you could messure airflow with a meter

but static pressure idk

[clever charm]

only real good thing is wire anemometer or actual test prints

could do some silmulations aswell but bruh

[warm bane]

does non premium fusion support that?

[clever charm]

nope

[warm bane]

https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005011814851537.html?dp=CjwKCAjw4ufOBhBkEiwAfuC7-fKNT_CUCkJleVvYdbI2h5CnMffZw0H0kcGlNpXIwmhtrtreg94JNBoCKFYQAvD_BwE|0AAAAA_48aDQ2Cqg1VHVbJ0FjLANc0GiFz|Cj4KCAjwv-LOBhAqEi4ADfTDQ5hgBgwT1vGTSkt8aQW0OyEh8eyuwzdHOGnXORblZ9rhNOjhPftuM88WGgJkag|v1&cn=de_a&aff_fcid=af3b8bbbb2a04db3891adf99841dd010-1775922430530-06145-_onKPRpM&aff_fsk=_onKPRpM&aff_platform=api-new-product-query&sk=_onKPRpM&aff_trace_key=af3b8bbbb2a04db3891adf99841dd010-1775922430530-06145-_onKPRpM&terminal_id=2d498359a19446639d658bb0a6424b37&afSmartRedirect=y

0.5A

[clever charm]

https://aliexpress.com/item/1005010178406837.html i ordered this one

cause mooney

[warm bane]

lool

have 2x winnsinns in my other printer

[tropic gazelle]

20€ for such a fan????

[warm bane]

special made

only for elegoo

i mean any 5020 would work

[tropic gazelle]

no ... 4pin by elegoo ...

[warm bane]

oh i forgot

so its pwm

that might be why

[tropic gazelle]

but with cosmos ...

[clever charm]

doubt it

i think you at least need a pwm fan

[tropic gazelle]

Nah... just the speedometer signal. So, the RPM. But we're not interested in that anymore.

[clever charm]

that was already not an issue with stock

just gives you an annoying warning and that's it

but the pins are Vcc gnd pwm and tach

[tropic gazelle]

and I even hated the warning

[warm bane]

but does it give voltage when you use a non pwm fan

[clever charm]

yeah 24v at all times 🤣

i can testify, not good for getting a first layer to stick

[warm bane]

lool

i mean is there a way to make fake pwm from the printer.cfg?

[tropic gazelle]

Isn't there a triac on the output there? ... In that case, VCC and GND would be sufficient
I'll definitely have to give it a try once the print is done....

[warm bane]

is your model fan broken?

[tropic gazelle]

there is more broken at the moment ggg

[warm bane]

good luck man

[clever charm]

mine is xD

[tropic gazelle]

Kids are doing science projects :D... and I'm NOT taking any pictures of my CC1 as it is right now

[warm bane]

whyy

[tropic gazelle]

Loose cables, weird things stuck to the sides, and more. I don't want to be to blame if someone tries to copy this. 😄

[clever charm]

if i show you my cc will you share it?

[drifting tusk]

uwu

[clever charm]

help a random weeb appeard

[warm bane]

public execution 8pm

[drifting tusk]

FINALLY!

[tropic gazelle]

no 😄

[clever charm]

i much more prefer gravity powered methods

[warm bane]

Mines bone stock

[clever charm]

that's an ugly toolhead

[warm bane]

hey it has charcter

[tropic gazelle]

it's boaring 😄

[warm bane]

and it only does 10k accel in the x axis according to inputshaper

[clever charm]

you mean the same character as a rattlesnake?

[warm bane]

and 5k in the y

[clever charm]

that's really decent for the cc

[clever charm]

that not so much

but with all my mods I barely get any imrpovments

[warm bane]

where can i see the graph

[clever charm]

export the csv and run it through another klipper machine

or install klipper on your pc and run it there

[warm bane]

i have a another killper host wait

where is the csv tho

## [input_shaper]
## shaper_type_x = mzv
## shaper_freq_x = 54.0
## shaper_type_y = zv
#*# shaper_freq_y = 44.6

[clever charm]

/tmp

[warm bane]

there are 4 files

[clever charm]

should be shaper calibrate and axis and some numbers

[warm bane]

the first

[clever charm]

yep

well every calibration data works

but take the last one

[clever charm]

should i see if i can make it work with a custom carriage to further increase stiffness and reduce weight or keep it as is?

[warm bane]

i think a basic alu profile with a chinese mgn12 would wonders

[clever charm]

at that point just make a whole gantry

[warm bane]

i mean

yea

wait i have to export my csv

[clever charm]

not anytime soon, don't got the money or time to sink into useless shit

[clever charm]

idk if i will even do a cowling at this point or just let the ducts duct around

very rough still

[warm bane]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usbQ4e7GFWo

1000 likes and i put this in my elegoo

[clever charm]

is that the lost cause newzealand guy?

[warm bane]

no

idk who that is

this guy builds enders with 48V and shit

[clever charm]

yep

he's completely crazy and i love it

[warm bane]

he has a friend call mitsu builds

he makes the same stuff but less often

https://www.youtube.com/@mitsumakes/videos

mitsumakes

sorry

bad with names

[clever charm]

oh yeah i've been following his wood angel build

[warm bane]

never seen a ssr for an nozzle heater

[clever charm]

is it 220v?

that sounds loudicrously dangerous

[warm bane]

no

24V

[clever charm]

piggi snout

[warm bane]

it smells trüffel

[clever charm]

it can smell my pain

[clever charm]

those ducst are sexy

and took wayy too long to make

[warm bane]

with pva maybe

lol

[clever charm]

what?

[warm bane]

with pva they could done

as a support

it was a joke

can you make them 2pcs

[clever charm]

or give them a flat front so that they can print

oh no, i did dumdum

@noble mesa any feedback on the shape of those 🦆

aiming for a really low restriction design, but it's my first time really designing a duct so it's very guessworky

[warm bane]

hmmm

why not make em wider

static pressure?

and why spilt them in two channels ?

im not asking to questionig the design rather to find out why btw

[clever charm]

from what i understand it's the most efficient cooling method

[warm bane]

would a 90° bend be bad?

as a cooling duct

[clever charm]

feel free to question me, this is in part a learning exercice for me, so attacking my assumptions is good thing

[clever charm]

they arleady extend basically as wide as they can fit

[warm bane]

im clueless when it comes to fluiddynamics (is that even the right thing?)

[clever charm]

yep that's the right thing

[warm bane]

hmm why are they asymetric?

[clever charm]

depends on how sharp it is

[clever charm]

cause the flow is as well, outside of the fan is moving much faster than inside, so it's to have about the same flow going to both sids. though this is a total guess as to where the split should happen

this shows it pretty well

[warm bane]

i didnt even know this

i thought it was pretty consistent

[clever charm]

intertia at work xD

same for 90deg bends

[warm bane]

makes sense

have you accountent for that by making it dual channel inside?

[clever charm]

i removed that now and plan to add it later, but it's basically so that the air can't as easily stack up at the outside of the bend

which in this case would cool behind the nozzle

[warm bane]

so is a turbolent flow better for 3d printing?

sorry for asking these strömungsmechanik 1 questions

lol

[clever charm]

no clue, not even sure if we can get somewhat laminar flow. But i think in general slightly turbulent flow is ideal

too turbulent and you loose a lot of energy to the turbulence itself

btw this is just guestimating.... in fluid dynamics i never got furhter than bernuli and newtonian considerations

[warm bane]

i watched few leassons

then it got boring...

[clever charm]

that's bascially me with uni.... even tho i'm interested in the subject manner i just can't

[warm bane]

i mean its all very intresting but the stress

i just cant

[clever charm]

oh for me it's the boredom of going to class for 2h when you could learn all of that really efficiently

[warm bane]

i loved it when i had leassons at 13:00 and 3 hours nothing until the next leasson

pretty fast after that i stopped going

[clever charm]

ok i think this is the smoothest i'm gonna get them for now

also should do a fluid sim before trying to change the shape any more

[clever charm]

cause they are already a pita to get to work with fusion xD

[warm bane]

i guess somethings never change with cad

[clever charm]

i wouldn't exclude a skill issue. but nothing has made me doubt my cad skills unlike those ducts

[clever charm]

curretnt very blocky looks

[warm bane]

anycubic called

[clever charm]

oh come on 😭

first bambu now anycubic

[warm bane]

https://giphy.com/gifs/son-im-crine-aaFz1Arg0h5cOwAu2w

[clever charm]

at least you don't say it's a fucking truck cab

[drifting tusk]

creality toolhead when

[warm bane]

https://giphy.com/gifs/son-hello-neighbor-tEk7h2pP8A54qmTrGx

[clever charm]

that's the SE3D no thank you

[drifting tusk]

[warm bane]

shots fired at the goat

[clever charm]

or what would be the creality style?

[drifting tusk]

I gotta say, the K2 toolhead looks pretty

[warm bane]

random bullshit

[drifting tusk]

it's so slim

[clever charm]

goat as in he makes annoying noises and shits everywhere?

[clever charm]

yeah aint gonna happen without major rework of the whole toolhead xD

[warm bane]

remixing his 5020 toolhead rn

[drifting tusk]

I mean, and it needs a linear rail

[clever charm]

kinda reminds me of a portal turret

[drifting tusk]

reminds me of GLaDOS

[clever charm]

not really remixing as in making a completely new one from scratch

[warm bane]

here you go

[drifting tusk]

lgtm

[clever charm]

is that a lamp shade?

[warm bane]

k2 pro xl

toolhead

wym

[drifting tusk]

should put an old heater cartridge in the bottom

[warm bane]

prusa called

[drifting tusk]

it'll begin to glow

very cool

[warm bane]

tysm

certified solidworkist

[clever charm]

heater cartriges are still the highest performance option as of today

at least to my knowledge

[warm bane]

inductive

?

[drifting tusk]

no

well

highest temp

but slowest heating rate

[clever charm]

i mean like power at high temp

[drifting tusk]

yeah

resistor vs weird resistor that drops in power

[clever charm]

possibly too yeah

[clever charm]

yep. just gimme full brr

let heat transfer limit the max temp

[warm bane]

which ones resistance increases with higher temp

[drifting tusk]

PTC / MCH / whatever you wanna call "silicon heater pads"

[warm bane]

literally me

rn

[drifting tusk]

technically (almost) all resistors increase in resistance with higher temp

just MCH / PTC a lot faster cuz their wires are so much thinner

source: I made it up

[clever charm]

hehe ntc heater

[warm bane]

❤️

[clever charm]

what could go wrong

[drifting tusk]

instant runaway

[clever charm]

just read the temp and be the heater at the same time

only 2 wires

[warm bane]

means heating up faster tho

[clever charm]

just as my grandma used to say:
going without protection doesn't necessarily make it faster

[warm bane]

faster to get pregnant

and the 3d print is the child

perfect analogy

[clever charm]

absolutely

[warm bane]

anal ehehe

[clever charm]

ew

[warm bane]

wym

[clever charm]

ok coming back on topic, this screw hole should be alot more solid now

[warm bane]

idk why

i like this shape

like a 40t cabin

going down the highway

[drifting tusk]

https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/1136772089626513469/1137350466204872724/attachment.gif?width=1003&height=768

[warm bane]

ok ill stop bashing i couldnt design this

[clever charm]

nah feel free fr

[warm bane]

and if i would it would be a messy workspace

[clever charm]

mine isn't that clean either

[warm bane]

you make folders?

ez project

random bullshit numbers

idk what is what

[clever charm]

maybe should, renaming the sketches would already help

[clever charm]

yeah fusion timeline helps with that xD

and the worst part is that i can quickly orient myself in the mess

[warm bane]

same

but i cant share it with others 🤣

they would laugh

[clever charm]

i don't understand that attitude tbh. as long as it's not a complete clusterfuck whatever

what counts is that you get the file done

[warm bane]

i wanted to share my workspace with atom

and yea

its like having a visitor

and cleaning your room yk

[clever charm]

🤣

was atom obnoxious?

[warm bane]

[warm bane]

he sadly never looked

or he did and left

[clever charm]

still looks kinda shit, but slowly getting it to a less shit look

what i love about this fan is that it's not gonna need pegs at all

so it'll just screw in and not be a headache

[warm bane]

it looks sleek

[clever charm]

welp that's gonna need some help

front bottom got a necessary facelift

yeah those ducts still need huge improvements in general

f

[warm bane]

they look good tho

and maybe make the ducts seperate from the cover like stock

[clever charm]

those fucking ducts are gonna be the end of me

[high sun]

You can do it ❤️

[clever charm]

i'm struggling

i want the duct to be horizontal in one part before bending

and i can't get it to be horitzontal, smooth and not error out

[high sun]

I wish I could help but um, today my struggle was modifying a step file to make some magnet holes bigger and add some extra magnet holes... we are not the same 😅

[clever charm]

when searching youtube for info i stumble upon this :( https://www.youtube.com/shorts/a1XiMWe0mAk

seems like loft is not the appropriate tool for this

having some serious doubts about the form tool being appropriate either

skill issue time

[noble mesa]

this sort of design is beyond me lol.

[clever charm]

you and me both xD... gonna go to bed and watch some tutorials. maybe i'll wrinkle my brain in my sleep

[noble mesa]

honestly its probably the right way to design the duct for this but I have trouble working this way, I need to cut ducts out of cross section shell them, and then smooth like i did for the aux fan. directly forming a profile from a cross section along a path is hard

[clever charm]

using the form tool is, right?

[noble mesa]

fuck if I know, what software is this

[clever charm]

for now my plan is to skip the shell operation by using the full ducts as tools to cut out of the body of the fan. it's way too unreliable otherwise

[clever charm]

fusion360

[noble mesa]

oh didn't recognize it because of the different environment

yeah I have no idea. I'm only really familiar with the solid tools and I'm guessing these are surface tools

[clever charm]

yep, i think those bends are just too complex and tight for a loft to work well. end up lacking a lot of control. only last solution i'd see is to have 4 guide rails which are all carefully planned out

[noble mesa]

yeah I expect a loft operation to fail and prob not be the best approach

[clever charm]

it miraculously worked ok ish, but not ideal for printing

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/1466083137967755356/1492647196384952443/image.png?ex=69dd6907&is=69dc1787&hm=cb09bebe70ac78c27e67a03fbfa171eff514d31679458806760917ff14655c01&
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/1466083137967755356/1492685416040759306/image.png?ex=69dce3df&is=69db925f&hm=4e4dae75fba2d33c5e9b53a7d5dfa9a3b6cf9441180bf0331802d068c75b6cce&
@noble mesa those were done using the loft tool

[noble mesa]

fun! my inclination would have been to split the duct further down but I think this will work well. You might be able to to get it more printing optimized by adding a one layer strut/bridge on that overhang region so the plastic has something to hang onto as you do the steep angle. or you just cut a bit out flat so its straight bridging

2 wall 20% infill 💀

[clever charm]

@noble mesa would you by chance have an accurate model of the bambulab 5015 fan? rn i'm using https://grabcad.com/library/artillery-x4-pro-radial-fan-5015-1. which looks good apart from the fan blades

[noble mesa]

I modelled one with wide mouth but I'm not sure how perfect it is hold on

[noble mesa]

@clever charm

[blissful vigil]

DB5015B24M-P.gif

[queen sable]

Yeah, if possible, I think that including some trunk distance below the fan, before the split (to allow the output pressure normalizing) makes the splitting of the flow a simpler proposition, also gives a beefier unified structure (stronger outright, and per gram) before splitting into smaller structures at the necessary point

[clever charm]

ok i will have it merged for longer, as for the structure, i will still have an outer cowling so it doesn't really matter that much

[clever charm]

this looks so goofy