Yet another 5020 toolhead (Clogged hole/AMOGUSBURNER)

[clever charm]

Struggling to find a toolhead that had everything i wanted i made my own.
It reuses the duct and print support from @noble mesa gamma toolhead,
and is inspired in parts by:
Screw mounts from https://www.printables.com/model/1400773-remix-elegoo-centauri-carbon-toolhead-cover-update
and back cover from https://www.printables.com/model/1539022-elegoo-centauri-carbon-printhead-bumper-bar

Supports stock extruder and constellation

Might also be the lightest toolhead available 62g with fan and hardware

https://www.printables.com/model/1575497-another-centauri-carbon-toolhead-cover

[tight ibex]

I like it, I printed the gamma one and used cheap magnets and it was loose lol. Is this a one piece design?

[clever charm]

Ha same issue xD, i had the front part fly away if i hit the back of the printhead. This is a two piece design, the front cowling is held on with the 4 screws on the sides, and then there is the back bumper that screws in from the back and has aligning pegs

currently printing the latest version

[tight ibex]

How is the fan mounted?

[clever charm]

initially like with the gamma, but the latest version has it screw in from the inside

[tight ibex]

Hopefully those are strong enough, I've had features like that snap when I try to thread screws in.

[clever charm]

that's what i'm scared of too. if that's the case it's back to front screws

[dawn sorrel]

The side screws is one of my gripes about the stock toolhead cover. I have had a heat creep clog mid print and my OFS paused the print but now I had no way to remove the extruder to clear the clog because you can’t access the screws between the toolhead and the wall.

[clever charm]

i don't quite understand

[tight ibex]

Hes talking about having to clear clogs when the printer pauses and parks by the poop shoot

[clever charm]

oh well this will make it worse probably...

[clever charm]

so those are definetly strong enough, made them a bit too big so the fan is quite hard to get in, but they didn't budge while doing this.

also while printing this out of asa i've crept a lot of stuff inside the printer i had printed out of petg... so i've got my work cut out

my manual tensionners did not enjoy this a single bit xD

got some noodle belts now

[tight ibex]

Whats your chamber temps like with the fan grills blocked off?

[tight ibex]

Any reason for swapping out the stock ones?

[clever charm]

i cheated with a 500w heater, but midway i turned it off and it reached about 55deg

[clever charm]

yep, horrible ringing. they weren't tensionning the belts to same amounts so they had different resonnant frequencies and were messing the input shaper up

[tight ibex]

Nice I've seen 57C in mine while printing ASA-CF. No active heating

[clever charm]

https://www.printables.com/model/1575497-another-centauri-carbon-toolhead-cover SENT

[noble mesa]

oh I do like this. I have been plaing with an alternate idea for the columns. basically you have a chamfered hex hole, and then you have spacers slot in from the front that lock into those hex holes, then you tightened from the back withc screws. that way it uses the original screws and is flush and clean, but you dont have to worry about reprinting the entire shroud if the column cracks. I also really like how you did the columns slotted.

[clever charm]

OK this took me a lot of reads to understand 😅 but I get it now I think. Basically like a printed hexagonal binding screw?

I also had a different idea of just ditching the mounting holes as solution to secure the fan entirely. There is the room to have clamps or clips on the sides with the mounting holes only serving for alignment and nothing more

[tight ibex]

You could also thicken up the front face and add some heatset inserts to the front and screw in from the back

[clever charm]

i think it would hit the front of the chamber if i do that. or use 3mm m3 heatset inserts. but tbh i really like the no hardware clips, just gotta make them reliable.. "just"

[clever charm]

Chirimorin just gave me a great idea. have some bumps jam the fan inside the ducs, alltogether this should constrain the fan completey

[tight ibex]

Or put the holes outside the fan and just use washers to hold the fan in place

Idk if thay makes sense

[clever charm]

yeah it does make senes, tho the bump solution is at least worth a shot

[tight ibex]

Yea either will work

[clever charm]

somthing like this

there are also some general visual changes

[novel spruce]

Have you considered a different duct design for the cooling? I saw something on printables with circular ducts wouldnt that be better for part cooling?
Also love the idea of the open back but dosent that imbalance the weight distribution a bit?

[clever charm]

Since I don't have acces to cfd and a not really patient enough to test different duct designs I prefer to stick with what works, at least for now. I'm coming from the mod with circular ducts, the fan was cooling the nozzle too much and made the printer pretty much unusable. This might be due to the tz hotend, but this duct doesn't suffer from this. As for weight distribution, I haven't thought about it during design, but since the back is so close to the rods it doesn't matter much. The biggest concern would be with weight balance along the z axis, but i don't think that the cad of the cc is configured at least yet to have the correct materials and densities

[novel spruce]

another idea if the top back screw arent used can you make a cable relief that use those 2 slots to anchor?

[noble mesa]

yeah sorry I realized as I wrote that it prob didnt make any sense but yes that exactly!

[clever charm]

what do you think about this? #1466083137967755356 message

gonna make the pegs a lot bigger

[noble mesa]

yeah I was gonna ask to you to let know how solid this ends up being, I'd just be a little worried it would rattle back and forth in y potentially but I'm unsure

[clever charm]

i had a small fan alignemt issue with the first test print made so i'm currently back fixing the cad, but from initial testing it is rocksolid.might also make a small clip that grabs onto this

but i really like the idea of not having screws for the fan

[clever charm]

i'm sorry, i don't understand which screws you mean. the one on the back cowling?

also about cable strain reliefs, i'm still really on the fence about the effectiveness of most of them. from what i've seen they just shift the issue further from the connecter while still keeping the issue of the tight bend radius. eitherway i'll make the step available so if someone wants to make it they'll have free reign to do so

😮‍💨

[noble mesa]

will also second @clever charm's thought, some of them have a pretty radical redesign that should prob be tested. I think something like the second design is reasonable since it doesnt change the overall design nearly as much as the first but it might not perform as well as one might expect for various reasons (with wider outlets is static preassure just very low towards the back, so you actually get even worse cooling on anything but the front and forward sides then?) hard to know for sure. Elegoo did make changes on the cc2 duct and widedened it but they also added some internal guide fins. I've been kindda thinking about that but I might try doing CFD once I have more time FWIW I dont think that cutting the plastic on the back will have much effect, its a pretty minimal amount and is pretty close to the rods anyway.

[clever charm]

i'm currently trying to learn to work with elmer, let's see who does it faster xD

[noble mesa]

it will prob be you haha

[clever charm]

i wouldn't be sure xD

can't even get it to flex a rod correctly as of now xD

[clever charm]

this is the latest idea i got to keep the fan in place

this in addition with the duct below should 🤞 hold

[clever charm]

welp it's stronger than the small clip of the fan xD. so with some superglue i'm after another idea

[tight ibex]

I think this would work, just make a larger standoff that wraps around the fan a bit with a hole for a screw with washer

Idk why the edit doesn't show on discord, lol does it show for you?

[clever charm]

yeah currenlty trying about that, but rather with a printed washer

that would push it down at the same time

i feel really dumb for this. it's so much easier to hold a fan in a cavity, than to hold it against a thin plate. and thanks to fdm bigger volume doesn't mean more mass

[clever charm]

Welp... Gonna try what Bacon suggested

Might be able to tie it in visually too

[clever charm]

@noble mesa It works amazingly well

Just need to cut the threads before inserting the pegs

[noble mesa]

Oh awesome! I'll do this on the main gamma toolhead and like to your toolhead. It will definitely make things look nicer

[clever charm]

just make them a tad bigger than on these pictures, it's at the limit for stripping

[noble mesa]

yeah thats what I was thinking, or recessing the chamfer a bit to get more bite or making the hex pattern something closer to a torx style star to get better contact.

[clever charm]

made some hex pattern to hide them

and tie them in visually

[clever charm]

This looks to be the final version

[noble mesa]

oh I like how this bit just meshes with the rest of the geometry. Hawt

[clever charm]

getting it to print just as clean is another question xD

also need to see what happened with the duct support, it sphaggetified itself

[noble mesa]

I think I am still partial to the chamfers and nonfilleted shape of mine because...

[clever charm]

i got really carried away with big big fillets

and also making a small gap to separate the top surface from the sides to reduce the infamous hull line

[noble mesa]

I do actually like them quite a lot even if they aren't my personal taste. I was also a fan of lemarc's toolhead cowling as well which was a bit similar stylistically.

[noble mesa]

yeah this model is very prone to experience strong hull line effects

[clever charm]

my biggest issue with lamarcs fanshroud, is that it reuses the stock mounting method which i'm not a fan of

i just want dumb screws xD

[noble mesa]

yeah this is also why I didn't actually want to use it. but damn those are some pretty renders

[clever charm]

yep. managed to get it quite discrete but it's still visible. Just print it with fibers 🤪

[clever charm]

i haven't looked for this, but usually he has a instruction pdf which also has some nice renders on top xD. but he presented it really well with all de different colours

also the cc is really a asa monster, even without the chamber heater installed yet

[noble mesa]

I wish I had his sense of design. I have the imagination of a soviet bloc architect XD. I suppose constellation is the one exception to that.

[noble mesa]

Everythings better with fibers, ABS, PPS, PET, Lungs

[clever charm]

so do I xD. he's the reason my XY blocks don't look absolutely horrible

we went back and forth a lot on the looks

[noble mesa]

I was going to say I just recommened them to someone on reddit who DMed me, the guide and design is awesome

[clever charm]

I'm pretty sure that if you ask lamarc to have a look at your design he would love to give some ideas on the looks

[clever charm]

Just now read the last one 🤣

[novel elk]

Hey soviet brutalist buildings were pretty sturdy

https://tenor.com/view/it's-not-sexy-but-it's-useful-as-hell-brian-lagerstrom-function-over-form-whatever-works-gif-4134296198127758627

[clever charm]

got some crispy renders underway

[clever charm]

https://www.printables.com/model/1575497-another-centauri-carbon-toolhead-cover Ok I think that it's really done now

[novel elk]

Quick question:
Shouldn't that capacitor be covered by the bumper? I figured it would be in danger of getting knocked.

Otherwise toolhead cover looks really nice 🤘🏻

[tight ibex]

The bumper hits before any of the electronics

[novel elk]

Maybe it was just the image that looked deceptive

But thanks for confirmation 🙂

[novel spruce]

I will try it as soon as i get some more white asa any more revisions planned? I still think different cooling ducts would make an improvement XD

[clever charm]

Not anytime soon, I've never done cfd and don't have the funds to have cloud based cfd, so it would be on my potato pc that barely runs fusion thus taking forever. Apart from the ducts I don't think that there is anything to change

[clever charm]

Main issue is that without cfd I risk making the ducts worse than stock and its pretty complicated to test correctly. Also I've tried a toolhead with a different duct and it cooled my nozzle wayyy down even tho it was visually aimed much more away. Back magic

[novel spruce]

Out of curiosity wich one you tried? As for testing i was thinking if it could be remixed from a tested one id do it myself but when i tried my luck with fusion it took me 3 hours to design a gridfinity bin with the generator and still messed up proportions😅

[clever charm]

https://www.printables.com/make/3179585
The issue is not making a duct, it's making a better duct. and for that it's not only modeling but also lots of simulating and ideally testing

also this toolhead pissed me off with all the skeleton bs, which makes it super flimsy and yet it was heavier than the one i made

[novel spruce]

O yeah proutings one i have the skeleton circular duct instaled rn with stock hotend (idk where to start for vonstelation) it did great for me even tho the asa warped a bit and the duct is crooked in one side

[clever charm]

i've only had issues with it. snapped the fan mount, thermal runaway protection making it so that i can't print long bridges and nothing high temp with cooling either

tho i feel like it made a lot less noise and was indeed better at cooling the print

but also the nozzle :/

[novel spruce]

I dont have asa left rn but il try to cut fan from the other model and combine them XD what should i look for in cooling problems?

[clever charm]

Cooling the nozzle, dropping bridges and bad overhangs.

[clever charm]

anyone interested in hex fan duct?

just pure looks, probably has negligable downsides for cooling

[noble mesa]

oh this is sexy

[keen cosmos]

very hexy

[novel elk]

oooo

I like it

[novel spruce]

Looks awesome as for downside i think its a positive to have the edges chamfered for intake

[clever charm]

can't go much further than that, overhangs are gonna be too difficult to print

[alpine quartz]

yes very much interested. time to fire up the ASA again

[clever charm]

Just added it to the printables xD

[alpine quartz]

Thanks!

[novel spruce]

@clever charm any sugestion on infill wall count?

[clever charm]

2 walls 10% gyroid is what i went for. got every setting on the model page too

lots of settings are to reduce the benchy hull line

[novel spruce]

how to add the pattern? just boolean?

[clever charm]

set the part as a modifier and set it to a different colour or negative modifier

[novel spruce]

Lets hope for the best

[tight ibex]

Suggest doing a 45 degree chamfer into a fillet for better overhang printing.

The first one was worse at the default 10mm/s overhang print speed, this was at 5mm/s

Also bead adhesion too good😂 , going to modify the step for using heatserts

[clever charm]

good luck making them fit xD i'd had used them if they'd fit

[clever charm]

this is a 65 degree chamfer into a fillet, maybe my profile is really good for overhangs but it worked great for me

should make an easy print version with nicer overhangs

[tight ibex]

Would you be able to share a step without this protruding section? Just the fillets, I tried to delete the faces but I couldn't do it cleanly in fusion

[clever charm]

i'll do it after dinner

[tight ibex]

No rush

[clever charm]

i should completely remake that cad file...

it's all built from the duct of the gamma so it's really fragile

[novel spruce]

Printed nicely too bad i dint clean the nozzle and there is some black petg traped in the first layer

[clever charm]

I was about to ask you how you got that cool effect 😂 I like it

[novel spruce]

Any tips on how to remove the placeholder for the pegs?

I think they fused 🥲

[clever charm]

Push from the other side with an allen key maybe? Gonna increase horizontal spacing to avoid this

[novel spruce]

Its already at 0.29 when i did 0.3 surface looked horrible

[clever charm]

I don't understand, what is at 0.29?

[novel spruce]

W8 nvm i was thinking about duports but these were designed in 😅

Supports*

[clever charm]

Yep, and probably flying a bit too close to the sun

[novel spruce]

they should design spaceships from fused supports

Finally that was the hardest thing i had to do recently XD

[clever charm]

if you're on here, you rock
https://www.printables.com/make/3211680?comment_id=3211680

[novel spruce]

hey an ideea for more customization interhangable fronts like 1mm thick that clip inside or held by the screw pegs

[novel spruce]

Either my asa is sht or idk i screw it half in and they always break made 3 sets of pegs already 😅

[clever charm]

Yeah that might be too cold printed asa, either increase the chamber temp, or nozzle temp to compensate

Before I had the heater setup I printed asa at 290 to compensate for that

Tho you can probably get away with using petg for this

[novel spruce]

Well i did a reprint with 290 temp still same problem 🥲

[noble mesa]

whose asa are you using? and have you calibrated print settings? it could be overextruded, or you may need to adjust shrinakage compensation

[novel spruce]

elegoo asa

[noble mesa]

I've not used it and I'm not sure of the quality unfortunately.

but I would chec if the outer diameter of the parts is to expectation, if its smaller than nominal then its a shrinkage issue.

could also be a retraction issue or PA thing causing the inner channel seam to be messy and thus obstructing screw

[novel spruce]

Not much left to calibrate anyway

[noble mesa]

oh. hmm

do you have a drill bit set? I would just ream out the holes a little bit to make sure it clears. or mess with shrinkage compensation a bit

[novel spruce]

The outer diameter seems spot on cause it fits perfectly in the fan slots

[novel spruce]

https://tenor.com/view/simpsons-hank-scorpio-why-didn’t-i-think-of-that-gif-16665717301005834823

Imma try

[noble mesa]

yeah deff try that. sometimes these small parts can be tricky

[clever charm]

I could maybe remake the pegs ' thread to be less strong. It might not need to survive being tightened down a lot.

[queen sable]

A light reaming, and also don't try to self-tap the pegs before assembly, do it when they're already inserted thru the fan housing that that it constrains them from splitting open.

[novel spruce]

welp i tried even in petg still same result im starting to think my screws are at fault idk anymore

[clever charm]

you can try those if you want

they have half the amount of lobes to cut the thread into

[blissful vigil]

4_lobe_thread.gif

[novel spruce]

thnx i sent them to print rn , any other settings that i should look for?

[clever charm]

cooling, reduce it as much as you can.

it's better to have a somewhat blobby print that you can clean up but that isn't brittle

[dawn barn]

I am having an issue printing this in ABS. Every print is easy to break when squeezing in my hand. The PETG print I made has more strength than the ABS print. Isn't ABS supposed to be stronger?

[clever charm]

only if the chamber is hot enough for it to correctly fuse with the previous layer

[dawn barn]

I can only get the chamber up to around 45+C. Is that hot enough?

I have a creality chamber heater coming.

[noble mesa]

should be fine, Ideally hotter is better but 45 is the voron standard.

[dawn barn]

If that is a good temp then why is the print not as strong as a PETG print? I have tried printing at different speeds and temps and still the same result. Could it be that the filament is wet? I will add a picture later.

[noble mesa]

your fan settings could be too high. you basically have to be running at 10-20% fan on long layer times (>30s) and like 50-70 on very shortt layers (5s). but its very filament dependent, and some ABS/asa filaments are just not as good. Its also a complex picture and you usually don't use ABS/ASA or raw stength or impact resistance reasons. PLA has amazing tensile strength but its held back by terrible heat resistance for example. PETG is almost always going to have better layer adhesion than ABS but you use ABS because it doesn't creep, and will survive in a hot chamber long term.

[clever charm]

where has this graph been all my life

just needs pet-cf

[dawn barn]

My last print was the best so far. I think that ABS was going to be super strong but from what you said. ABS has better HDT than PETG that is what makes ABS better.

[novel spruce]

Soo for us newbies what is the best material for this kind of mods? Il want to build the constelation extruder aswell at some point but not sure about materials to use
I dont wanna use fiber materials( i have a bad habbit of touching my face too much )

[alpine quartz]

ASA

[novel elk]

ASA or Polycarbonate

[novel spruce]

is elegoo pc good enough ?

[novel elk]

I don't see why not. Polycarbonate is polycarbonate.

[novel spruce]

idk i saw someone say that it depends on the blend but i cant find the specifics of it

[novel elk]

The blend would usually be whether it is pc with glass or pc with carbon fiber. But I am recommending just straight pc.

[novel spruce]

also what exactly is paht-Cf? in the filament comparation seems to be the strongest of them all still dont feel comfortable with carbon fiber tho XD

[novel elk]

PA is nylon

so paht-cf is high performance nylon with carbon fibers

[novel spruce]

so im guesing thats the best one to use?

[alpine quartz]

don’t worry about paht or pc, just print asa. the CC is a monster at it

[novel elk]

paht-cf would be overkill

asa or pc is fine

but if you were say to be using something right on the hotend (such as one of the mods that allows you to use bambu hotends) then you would want paht-cf

and have it annealed

[novel spruce]

so thats for constelation extruder mod

anealing is basically baking it?

[novel elk]

No that would be fine with something else. I mean like right on the heating element

Annealing is a heat treatment process that alters the microstructure of materials—typically metals, alloys, or glass—to soften them, improve ductility, and relieve internal stresses. It involves heating a material above its recrystallization temperature, holding it there, and then cooling it at a controlled, often slow rate.

So basically bake at 400 for an hour

then let it cool down

but you want to put it in salt to help prevent deforming

[novel spruce]

well idk if its the model problem but this is my asa atempt with a housing
clogged nozzels version i didnt manage to make the pegs yet (keep breaking) but il get a taping drill and and try that

[novel spruce]

400 C or f? anyway i wont be able to do that (dont wanna ruin the oven XD)

[novel elk]

sorry american here

F

https://wiki.polymaker.com/printing-tips/post-processing/annealing

[novel spruce]

does pc have fumes like asa ?

[novel elk]

everything above pla and petg I would not want to breath

https://www.alveo3d.com/en/vocs-emissions-3d-printing-all-need-to-know/

[novel spruce]

thx for the site but seems too chalanging to aneal without a proper place and dedicated oven

[novel elk]

I mean the asa and the pc should not need annealing for your use case (the toolhead cover)

[novel spruce]

idk how mine deformed like that so sadly rn its the stock covor with a rubberband to stop the rattle

[clever charm]

Try to reduce cooling and slow down as much as you can. On a side note, are you preheating the chamber?

[novel spruce]

yup when printed in asa i had 50-60 temp chamber

i did print some petg but was late and went to bed now im at work so cant really test if they work

[clever charm]

@noble mesa i'm so glad that you had the idea of interchangeable pegs. it made this a lot less wasteful and time consuming

[clever charm]

what are your cooling settings?

[novel spruce]

on asa i tried with max 30% still broke idk on petg tried with default broke and on the 0% cooling looked like it might work

have you considered the idea of changable faceplates?XD

also for the pegs what about a no screw version with sometype of pegs from the other side aswell that interlock by friction

[clever charm]

nope xD, but i have considered something else

endoscope nozzle cam mount

[clever charm]

thought about that, and then remembered that creep is a thing and that it might be tight for a few months at best and just rattle around and end up braking after that

the screw pegs are already quite problematic, but snap fits will be way worse

[clever charm]

yeah ok mine is a lot more aggressive... printing at 270

[novel spruce]

https://www.printables.com/model/652926-pc4-pneumatic-fittingptfe-connector-lock-clip what about this style of locking?

[novel spruce]

sounds stupid buc could i get a export profile with perfect settings? it beats me at how much variabled are there

its my first printer and still cant figure most basic things out

[clever charm]

i think that would suffer from the same issues, the main thing is that you want the fan to be under preload, so that when it's doing some strong accelerations in the Y- direction that it cannot move. advantage with screws is that you can adapt the preload

[clever charm]

sure, think this should have it

[blissful vigil]

4_lobe_thread.gif

[novel spruce]

what kind of seam did u use when printing? i used scarf mby that is the problem?

[clever charm]

in theory scarf should be stronger, i just don't use it cause it's difficult to get looking good and i don't spend much time optimizing my profiles for looks

[novel spruce]

woah so many parameter modified some i dont even understand what they do XD

[clever charm]

now that i think about it i might have lied about the profile... it's my main profile over the past 2 years and i've adapted it to be very fast at good quality

[novel spruce]

pls dont consider me a begger but can i get a petg one aswell?XD

in the asa i get this

[clever charm]

nope for both xD i haven't tuned my petg profile on the cc. it prints just ok but that's it, you're better of with stock (i should clarify, i don't consider you a begger xD_

[clever charm]

oh that might be due to me being on a recent beta build

this setting makes bridges very clean

[novel spruce]

d

does it improve suports aswell?

i had fused too many and cut my finger more than i wanna admit

[clever charm]

uhhhhhhh i think? i used the stock profile once or twice, got annoyed and ported over the profile from my neptune then

[novel spruce]

umm where can i see a changelog for dev builds?

[clever charm]

https://github.com/OrcaSlicer/OrcaSlicer/commits/nightly-builds/

[novel spruce]

thx

for the endoscopic camera i think i have a small one from aliexpress (impuls buy) somewhere if you want me to test the idea if i find it

[clever charm]

i also have one xD it's a 7mm 480p one

i've removed the casing and it should just fit

[novel spruce]

yup i have same kind (checked the order) need to find it at parents home home

how would you wire it?

instead of the stock one or phone?

[clever charm]

idk yet, probably alongside the ptfe and printhead cable, and then just plug into the front usb for now

some very rudimentary fitting

[novel spruce]

interesting wanna consider a wireless one(the ear ones) and draw power from the pcb led

nvm that might be problematic with app control

[clever charm]

not a fan of wireless when it can be avoided

[novel spruce]

eh i was thinking it might make it easier with the routing or lower the total weigth of it

[clever charm]

focus might be a bit complicated.. it's sitting about 5mm outside of the focus range

true, tho tbh i don't think that those few grams really matter much

[novel spruce]

dosent it have a focus wheel on the wire ? or is that just led i cant remember

[clever charm]

just led, it's fixed focus

and really low quality xD

but still better to see what's going on

[novel spruce]

what fps does the camera have did you check?

[clever charm]

i think it's adaptive, limited by light, but with a max of 30fps iirc

[noble mesa]

basically yeah, its for the HDT. Also its way lower density

[noble mesa]

unfortunately most PC on the market is blended with hard to predict properties and unblended pc will be very hard to prent will to print.

honestly I would just stick to ABS or ASA. fiber is helpful but not required.

[noble mesa]

what ABS/ASA are you using (there are better and worse ones. you don't want to use fiber filled for sure on something like that particler cowling because it is very prone to breakage due to the think struts. CF adds rigidity but increases brittleness.

[noble mesa]

it depends on the awesome I'm glad it worked!

[novel spruce]

Elegoo ASA

[clever charm]

huh i'm using the same

[noble mesa]

oh yeah I forgot I think you mentioned that.

ABS and ASA-CF are generally better in terms of warping for a lot of things but usually I have printed covers like this in regular ABS/ASA and not had issues so I think a lot of it may be tuning cooling settings.

[novel spruce]

when il get more asa il try the print profile that clogged nozzle gave me

[novel spruce]

but i wont midn if you by chance can give me a petg one 🥺

[clever charm]

i love janky proofs of concept

[noble mesa]

here is a 3mf with my profile for kingroon petg. it works pretty well on this model which has some pretty trickly low clearance built in supports and long bridges.

[blissful vigil]

plasticinsert_h.gif

[noble mesa]

but petg wont survive for toolhead parts

[novel spruce]

is the cad model for the centauri on printables acurate? i wanna design my own debris shields for the bed but dont feel like manual mesuaring

[noble mesa]

generally quite accurate, a lot of the injection molded parts are stuff we got from elegoo directly

what do you mean debris sheild?

[novel spruce]

in general i cant manage to get it to work nicely idk i checked tutorial after tutorial i did the calibrations and still most of my print dont seem to look as good as others

[novel spruce]

https://www.printables.com/model/1211507-bed-debris-shield-for-elegoo-centauri-carbon something like this

[clever charm]

don't get too fooled by this, low quality pictures often oversell prints. i've been asked why my prints looked like injection molds even tho in real life they were horrible

[noble mesa]

exhaust and aux fan disabled?

[novel spruce]

funny thing i tested the aux fan with petg that was the best print i ever got but suports failed over and did a mess

[clever charm]

the aux fan should only and really only be used for speedbenchies

[noble mesa]

yeah so some bed parts might be slightly eless accurate but the mounting points should be solid since those are derived from parts we have cad from elegoo on. You will of coure have some variability around how high up the bed is. The shell around the bed is not particularly accurate on the inside and underside though if that matters

[novel spruce]

still i get more ofter soggy bits and ugly overhangs and sometimes idk how some parts burn

[noble mesa]

not unexpected- you get great overhangs but with PETG the layer lines, especially for supports become extreamly brittle because the petg cools to quicly

[novel spruce]

and the seams oh god only pls i managed to have decent seams

[clever charm]

i use that in my advantage and have the support interface cooling at 100% to make it snap off

[novel spruce]

the petg one falled over on mine even with tree strong

[clever charm]

wait what supports even?

everything for the toolhead either doesn't need supports or has them included

[noble mesa]

here are my ABS settings with a challenging ABS (though I have a chamber heater. should work fine with ASA too though you may need to turn the cooling down jsut a bit since your chamber wont be as hot

[novel spruce]

in other prints not these parts

[blissful vigil]

plasticinsert_h.gif

[noble mesa]

problem is tree supports have very high surface area to volume ratio so it exaccerbates cooling. Aux fan (especially drawing cold outside air) is generally bad for PETG.

it will just be way worse for tree supports in particular

[novel spruce]

since i instaled a raiser my chambers seem to heat up faster and stay more consistent idk why but i managed to have almost 60 constant

[noble mesa]

and you don't have a heater? wow. do you just have a ton of instulation?

[novel spruce]

none just the towel someoen told me here on disc

i printed plugs for most of the holes and the door gap

[clever charm]

putting the shipping foam on the top glass works about the same too. my heater only kicks in during initial heatup and remains shut off for the rest of the print

oops just printed petg with asa settings xD

[novel spruce]

and my room temp max 23 c when the room heater ( pc) works other times 21

[novel spruce]

and what happened?

[clever charm]

hurt myself with the plate, lots of stringing, looks like shit but it works

ok the endoscope is installed but i can't see it through the ui

hmm

[noble mesa]

yeah top glas definitely bleads a ton of heat

[novel spruce]

Towel4life

[clever charm]

That explains stuff

[novel spruce]

give us the juicy footage

dosent the led from the camera cause some glare?

[clever charm]

Currently on it 😅 idk why the cc doesn't recognize it tho

[clever charm]

The board led seems to cause some, but that shouldnt be too hard to block

[novel spruce]

u have the constelation extruder on?

[clever charm]

Yep

And I should get some fucking Bambu screws

quality is far from great

[novel spruce]

what version u have? also did you get all the parts from aliexpress?

[clever charm]

currenlty cs cause i made a mistake, but gonne make sf

[novel spruce]

it gave me motion sickness

[clever charm]

xD

i think i need to clean the lens

quite challenging tho given how small it is

[novel spruce]

q tips?

[clever charm]

it's an order of magnitude smaller xD

i think it's about 1mm

also made this

[novel spruce]

some piece of cotton with plastic tweezers

the blur adds a "dreamy" effect XD

[clever charm]

also the whole quality of this is really horrible. i had to resolder practically every connection

at least cable management is straight forward... i have a m3 screw with washer to clamp the cable down and then just slap it in the drag chain

[novel spruce]

i wanna ask what would be the advantage one over the other ? not well versed in the nozzle differences

[clever charm]

so in terms of metlzone it's CS < SF < HF
longer meltzone more flow.
CS only supports tz nozzles,
SF only supports V6 nozzles
and HF supports V6 nozzles and mze

i lost my mze and i have some amazing knockoff v6 cht nozzles that get me stupid high flow

also v6 nozzles have a bigger outside hex so it's harder to strip

for me sf is the best one, chepest nozzles yet small enough to have decent extruder control

the longer the meltzone the harder it gets

[novel spruce]

so if i wanna build one i should aim for the sf too but i dont even know where to start to get the parts needed

[clever charm]

as for the acronyms:
mze=melt zone extender
cht= core heating technology

both allow for higher flow

[clever charm]

i got everything on aliexpress

[novel spruce]

yea thats where id try to get my stuff but idk what to even begin to look for il prob even need to get screw there too cause i didnt find any hardware store here that sells 4 mm 6 mm 8mm screws and so on just 5 10 15 also anything smaller than m3 no chance

[clever charm]

yeah for screws i get everything on aliexpress.. there maybe specialised shops for machine hardware but i didn't find any near me. also i don't like phillips head so most of them are out of the question

[novel spruce]

i didnt even find philips for that sizes

anyway for the camera mount is it just a different back bumper or more parts?

[clever charm]

yeah different back bumper, with a small clamp

didn't want to redo the whole front cowling just for that

[novel spruce]

i think its better tho cause of the pcb led would create too much glare if in sight

[clever charm]

it's not in sight, still causes a lot of glare tho

but there is nothing preventing me from doing a small wall to block the light from reaching the lens

[novel spruce]

transparent ptg to reduce it a bit?

[clever charm]

nah just a solid part to hide it

[noble mesa]

if you get the bambu screws I'd be curious to see if the mounting rigidity goes up significantly. I don't have a nozzle cam so its hard to tell. It is interesting that it seems way more stable on the second layer than the first layer

[clever charm]

first layer got a bit too much squish too. that probably doesn't help. but my top surfaces also have some clear signs of backlash

[noble mesa]

oh I might try putting a peice of microscope slide over or thing sheet of mica (which is a weird thing to have but I have some. that way its sealed and easier to clean

[noble mesa]

I'd advise getting some m3 screw kits. most of what you nead are button head cap screws. they have assortments with I think almost all the the lengths of screws you'd need. you also need heatset inserts and ecas connectors etc

[clever charm]

just had to look that up. that's indeed something weird to have

[noble mesa]

they still use them as windows for wood stoves since there is nothing clear that heat resistant otherwise. they were major mining output of the northeastern US and called it isinglass (streets got named that sometimes). Its also used as film for radiation detectors since it is very thin and strong. Also nice for resin incense as it permits IR to pass through from nichrome heater, but not doesn't let the resin melt through

[clever charm]

oh i maybe have another idea.. cut up the original casing and slide that on there, will be a good glare protector and also cover the lens

[noble mesa]

oh yeah thats not a bad idea

[novel spruce]

Can your rotate for focus change or is glued down?

[clever charm]

there is no focus, the whole camera and lens assembly is solid

i should try cleaning it

[novel spruce]

How friendly is the assembly?

[novel spruce]

I have on and some heat inserts tho never used them i got the screw one with m2-m5 prob mistake but i got them b4 i had a 3d printer just to be safe and dindt know what i needed

[noble mesa]

on constellation? Its about as difficult as building sherpa mini which isn't too hard, but there isn't a manual right now (I need to actually finish that) so you kinda have to look at the cad model

[noble mesa]

the voron type or the injection molding type?

[novel spruce]

No clue of the differences il get home and send a pic if you can help me on finding out

[noble mesa]

you want these

not this type

[novel spruce]

Yeah i think i have the second one in be home in 1 hour to check , so those wont be good enough?

[clever charm]

so coming back to the toolhead cover, the lens of the endoscope is 0.6mm in diameter

and cleaning it has done very little for image quality

[noble mesa]

can the cover be removed? If so my usual advice would be to clean it in alcohol with sonication if you have one. Another option would be a fine syringe and needle (ideally cut with a file be blunt) so you can squirt a large volume of alcohol right over the cover at high pressure.

[clever charm]

Yeah it's straight up the lens now, I should try that with a syringe good idea

[clever charm]

should get an ultrasonic bath, but i've never needed it

[novel spruce]

Well i have both kinds what can i do with the injection molding tipe?

[clever charm]

you can probably still use them, just less good than the other

[novel spruce]

Any more progras on the endoscopic camera?

[clever charm]

nope i was eating xD had some ideas on how to make it less jank

[novel spruce]

Did yours come with any atachments? I just found mine and it has a 45 ish degree mirror

[clever charm]

yeah mine did too, lost it :(

it would be better to improve the focus and fov but i'm not sure that you could frame it correctly

[novel spruce]

Im thinking cant it just be put straight down and use the mirror for to see the nozzle

[clever charm]

iirc the angle doens't really allow for that either

[noble mesa]

oh you can actually get something better for small scale

they are nice to have

[clever charm]

what is it?

also no i don't need more stuff 🤣 i'm already drowning in my hardware hoarding habbit

[noble mesa]

but I tend to like this for small jobs they make bullet ones you can drop into a jar or whatever.

unfortunately more expensive than I thought on amazon now. maybe aliexpress has them cheaper https://www.amazon.com/Household-Ultrasonic-Professional-Immersible-Vegetable/dp/B0FCXTXPT2?sr=8-3

[clever charm]

oh nice. that looks like it can be very cheap too

[noble mesa]

nope just as expensive as amazon.

these are small and really cheap if space is a concern. https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Ultrasonic-Stainless-Eyeglasses-Dentures/dp/B0FQNXV3D1?sr=8-18&xpid=U09EQDAaIcP9D

[clever charm]

stuff like this sketches me out. my ex had one of those and it was a speaker cleaner, just not ultrasonic

so it did practically nothing

[novel spruce]

it made waves

[noble mesa]

oh damn really? wow. well the real lab ones aren't that much more pricey. 60-100. But relaly probably not worth it unless you need to do other stuff with it

[clever charm]

yeap, that's why i don't have one *yet. like a third 3d printer, like an endoscope mount for the toolhead, like lots of the stuff i do xD

[noble mesa]

tbh if you keep an eye out at goodwill or secondhand places they show up pretty frequently. thats where I got my first one.

or just check the loading dock of universities to see what they are trashing.

they are among the most often trashed things I see out on our dock

[clever charm]

never found one here, i go pretty often. i found a huge ender 3 once, like 430mm^2 buildplate xD

[clever charm]

huh... i maybe could ask some people that would be able to spare me one

[noble mesa]

yeah honestly people at colleges and university's usually hate to see stuff go out to the scrap yard so if you have any contacts that could keep an eye out at a local place it would be easy.

[novel spruce]

@clever charm i finally made it !!

Transparent petg for the pegs for the win !

[clever charm]

yeah that's gotta be the stickiest filament i got. nothing beats clear petg

while designing a print in place mechanism i gave up cause of this xD

[novel spruce]

Also didnt realize till now i printed your no screw internal poopbin and recipient

[clever charm]

oh went clear just like me

[clever charm]

tho that poop bin was mainly designed to fit with my internal spool mod. should work with others too now that i think about it

[novel spruce]

Yup i wanted to somewhat see inside of it

[novel spruce]

I printed mostly for the shape i didnt like the straight ones

[clever charm]

yeah that's oddly useful

[novel spruce]

With nozzle led looks like a lamp

[dawn barn]

The bumper on the back is hitting my left motor.

[novel spruce]

yup just checked mine too

[clever charm]

Yes, that's exactly what it's for. The cc's homing sequence inevitably rams the toolhead into the steppers. So the bumper is there to protect the pcb. Stock toolhead does this too

[novel spruce]

@clever charm can i have the experimental camera bumper?

[clever charm]

Tomorrow sure! Spent tonight cleaning up the cad cause it was really messy

[novel spruce]

With a little bit or grace and some pliers the camera becomes afjustable focus 🤣

[clever charm]

What 💀

How can you adjust it?

[novel spruce]

Idk about yours but mine had it glues on place , i forced it a bit and scaped the glue on the side and i can rotate that small lens

[clever charm]

Oh that's a gamechanger

[novel spruce]

Cant get a better closeup image

[dawn barn]

I was wondering. I thought there was an issue with my printer. It knocks into that left motor pretty hard.

[clever charm]

Yeah that thing is about as small as a nozzle 😂

[novel spruce]

I have a even smaller one that uses wifi and it creates its own hotspot but now it gives just black screen 🙁

And it was better quality too...

[clever charm]

Only real way to avoid this is by going open centauri which homes in the other direction and idk why doesn't slip on the motor

[clever charm]

Oh yeah that looks nicer, got a link? Might get scopecreeped into that

[novel spruce]

I think it was really 720p

[clever charm]

Oh but it's a lot bigger as a unit

[novel spruce]

https://a.aliexpress.com/_ExNMVwo
I think it was one of these

[novel spruce]

Well it creates its own wifi and has baterry charging module so i would think its bigger 😅

not the sharpest image but its 30 cm away tho

also the liighting is really brigth

[novel spruce]

@clever charm I took the small one out of the housing this is the size of it the led in the tip melted away when took it out really sad i cant test how it looks cause it dosent work anymore

[noble mesa]

yup me too, works really well. although I am probably going to be ditching the purge bin and filament cutter once I go to klipper

[noble mesa]

protip: it doesn't if you switch to opencentauri

[lilac zodiac]

Highest I've gotten so far with mostly stock setup is around 47c with no chamber heater at all with the internal poop chute and a couple other mods that help with keeping heat in

Using asa ATM but been debating on using my asa-cf

[clever charm]

Oh nooo

[clever charm]

@novel spruce it's really really jank so you know

[blissful vigil]

CC_toolhead_v41.gif

[clever charm]

getting this part smooth took me way longer than what i'm willing to admit

it's purely aesthetical and doesn't affect functionnality in any way

[novel spruce]

Have 3 hour print rn il try a prototype after in petg

[novel spruce]

I think my printer would scream

[clever charm]

nah printer likes smooth edges

as long as they aren't smooth with the xy plane

[tropic gazelle]

This is off-topic, but does anyone know where I can get a 5020 radial fan with 4 pins to replace the original one? Or should I wait for Kalico and install a good 2-pin fan?

[clever charm]

contact elegoo support directly, they will probably offer to sell you one for a reasonable price

[tropic gazelle]

mhm ... 18 US$ and minimum 3 weeks delivery time 😢

[noble mesa]

I might not smooth it beyond a certain point of complexity since it could get very hard to work with if you ever need to modify anything

[noble mesa]

Really? wow I had heard it was like 7 bucks

[clever charm]

cough i don't know what you mean

[noble mesa]

lol this is why I sometimes turn off design history when publishing stuff- have to hide my shame

[clever charm]

yeah it's even worse than this looks... i've remodeled the whole thing from the ground up cause the first project was such a mess that i couldn't touch anything anymore. now it's all in nice and tidy components

[lilac zodiac]

That doesn't look to janky

[tight ibex]

Same I like sharp edges and straight lines lol

[clever charm]

this it's what the endoscope mount is starting to look like

[novel spruce]

pp

:))

[clever charm]

no my protoype is in petg 👀

[clever charm]

that's a bright view

[novel spruce]

The auto white balance of the camera is horrible

Also i connected the canera to my laptop

Hmm mby if i had a white filament ot would look decent on camera

[clever charm]

yeah to make it work with the cc you have to unplug the stock one

[novel spruce]

As proof of concept i love it but now there is a better question does the camera hold up to heat?

[clever charm]

electronically it works, image quality wise ehh not so much

you have a glowing pink mess

but that was at 80deg

[novel spruce]

i think a brighter chamber would make the clarity alot better

And low nozzle led or off

[clever charm]

yeah that lighting situation leaves a lot to be desired... i think the casing has a very important role in avoiding this

[clever charm]

Stubby boi

[novel spruce]

beefy screws

[clever charm]

Yeah didn't want to play with my 1.3mm hex m2 screws anymore

[noble mesa]

@clever charm it looks like you have better alignment on the fan screws, I'll have to change mine to match the actual hole positions. I think mine are about 0.5 mm off.

I was wondering what your experience is on the static preassure/flow you are getting with this intake. its intersting, you have a smoother transition and a larger aperture which is good, but the aperture is halfway around the pins which may cut static preassure. I think it could go either way on what has better flow in the particular duct system we dealing with. Probably depends on what the system curve looks like.

I wish we also had CAD on the CC lower duct potion. it has fins inside to help direct flow. that we could prob adapt

[clever charm]

yeah iir it's 0.5 laterally and 0.1mm vertically or something like that. and my experience is basically none. i just know that you don't want sharp cross secction changes for flow. i basically just added a flare the the existing hole of the fan, since i assume that the intake hole diameter was optimized for highest efficiency. never went furhter than bernuli and newtonian effects with flow. If you know some resources for this i'd be very happy. currently just guess-ducting and looking on random internet sites

also guess that the fan introduces a tremendous amount of turbulence which i wouldn't know how to calculate

well probably with some rot bs.. i don't like math

[noble mesa]

I have a little bit of knowlege, the stuff I can cite most easily is for corsi rosenthal boxes, though its not a 1:1 analogue

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9759459/
https://www.texairfilters.com/iaq-research-practice-in-action-the-corsi-rosenthal-box-air-cleaner/

Of course blocking thee corners of a box fan makes sense to prevent reflow and rubulence but the optimal shroud diameters they found for driving how backpreassure loads like merv 13 filters were surprisingly small relative to what one might expect. I'll see what else I can dig up on blowers. My inclination is to think with the preassure vessel design of the fan duct and relatively small opening we are dealing with a relativel large backpreassure load so maybe making the fins completely covered like the stock cowling intake hole helps keep airflow going one way only. Alternatively maybe elegoo did it only for aestetic regions and the speed we are dealing with would lead to higher than desirable low preassure locally on the intake without a wider hole. I'll see what else I can find thats more relevant

[clever charm]

so as quick and dirty method to try, i could put it over a bath of water and use an apeture like this to find the sweetspot https://www.printables.com/model/548404-mechanical-irisaperture-fidget-toy ?

or even have a scale below as a makeshift flow meter

[noble mesa]

oh that would actually be pretty effective.

I have a hot wire anemomemeter that might be usefull but it would need quite a bit of work to get set up tho. I might test it eventaully.

I found a couple papers that have some great testing but in the time I have I can't really make heads or tails of what would be best. I'd be inclined to say that using the smooth transition of your intake, but with the same diameter as the impeller would be ideal. So similar hole to what is on the stock cover but you are right the intake geometry elegoo used and that I kept on gamma is prob not ideal for resistance and turbulence based on what I'm seeing in this paper.

but thats only my quick cursory read. TBH though the CC fan is kinda moassively overpowered and I think the main issues with it are more on the downstream side. fins would be nice but elegoo really didnt do a great job of ballencing flow, left side is still more powerful than right, I pushed the divider further to the left for gamma which I think ballenced it out but I suspect it is still a bit biased. the degree of back facing airflow is still prob not ideal, might be solvable with internal fins

[novel spruce]

with blower style fan is reflow still an issue? for inproving airflow at this point wouldnt it be better to look into the designs of jet engine design?

[noble mesa]

to one degree or another yeah. its also a turbulence thing. It also gets a lot worse at high static preassures, the axial box fan is going to be dealing with much lower static preassures than the 5020 in the cc. It also looks like if you have a matched inlet to the impeller id and smooth curve might be the most effective based on my read but I will need to check back

jet engines are kinda different being radial/tubaxial type, you have combustion going on inside, and the blade tips can hit mach 1.5 in which very strange flow can develop we dont see in subsonic situations

[clever charm]

i could cheat a hot wire anemometer by looking at the power consumtion of a nicrome wire right? also with some loose string i could see if there is some outward flow right?

[clever charm]

from what i gather with this paper, is that basically it depends, but that the big inlet is probably indeed reducing performance

actually a set of rings would be a lot simpler and easier to use than a complex aperture

[timid obsidian]

Would it be possible to get a version with no fan and no hex mounts for a cpap mount I am working on?

[clever charm]

yeah think so, gonna look if i can easily remove those features in the cad

[timid obsidian]

Thank you so much.

[clever charm]

here you go. should be the right one. feel free to ping me if it isn't

why bot no work

[timid obsidian]

Thank you kindly, I really appreciate it.

[clever charm]

seems that bambu also reduces the inlet diameter

[alpine quartz]

is there a Printables link for this

please pin it

[clever charm]

https://www.printables.com/model/1575497-another-centauri-carbon-toolhead-cover

@fallow orchid sorry to annoy you with this, could you pin #1466083137967755356 message ?

[fallow orchid]

whomstve

no i can't

[clever charm]

thank you!

[alpine quartz]

PETG works?? bacon recommended ASA or better for his cover

[clever charm]

well it does work, should add that it is not the ideal material tho. i'll clarify it

[clever charm]

got these printing up now

[clever charm]

Now that's a look

[novel spruce]

https://tenor.com/view/waking-up-dungeons-and-dragons-honor-among-thieves-undead-rising-zombie-waking-dungeons-and-dragons-gif-9944486626774980864

[clever charm]

That works surprisingly well

Gonna screw the fan down tho... Causes way too much variability

[novel spruce]

What is without the shroud?

[clever charm]

That's the issue, 2.7-3.2 so im trying to get it more repeatable

[novel spruce]

Would it help if i did it on mine for more data?

[clever charm]

Probably, but for that data to mean anything I have to get it to be somewhat stable firts

Also I'd need to redesign the inlet rings so you don't have to rip your printhead apart

[novel spruce]

I also wonder how much does the constelation extruder change the variable

[clever charm]

Cooling wise it should have no impact since it's isolated

One issue with this method is that I'm not certain that cooling performance correlates with down draft. But feels more quantifiable than a glass of water

[novel spruce]

Yeah but different geometry aroind nozzle would make a difference for filament

I saw a while ago a guy that made like a championship of nozzle colling designs and some of them were really weird but for cpap so i dont think that it will mean too much for this

[clever charm]

Yeah I think i saw that too, cpap makes this a lot easier since you can assume to have a cylinder of laminar flow

While the Fan here is a turbulent little fucker

[novel spruce]

Oh nice

Dosent it need to be more rounded on the inside edge?

[clever charm]

so this is 25mm 30mm and 33mm, gonna try 28mm which is the stize of stock and gamma now

[clever charm]

ideally yes, but that just improves the result for all

hmm

ok you are right

gonna remake them like they will actually be on the toolhead

[novel spruce]

https://www.printables.com/model/1492511-duct-toolhead-cover-fan-intake-elegoo-centauri-car

He says it improves the airflow slightly i had one of them put on mine too when used his cage but idk if the intake helped or bcause of the circular duct at the bottom

[clever charm]

i'd like to have seen the testing methodoly and results... but only the hollow duct and not the fan blade bs can improve stuff

[novel spruce]

I still have the duct il try to shove it inside your model

[clever charm]

good luck xD the hole is too big

@novel spruce if you want to play around with them

[blissful vigil]

28.gif

30.gif

33.gif

25.gif

[clever charm]

that bot is so sexy

[clever charm]

That printhead looks really cool 🤣

Huh that might be what the dude was on about weight savings

[novel spruce]

i like the look of ductape and hope

[clever charm]

Oh there is no duct tape 😂 just a broken prototype, 25mm M3 screw and a random tnut I found flying around to hold it

[novel spruce]

would there be anyway to change the shape of the middle of the fan

cc2 has a different shape or so it looks from videos and i think it has to do with cooling

[clever charm]

Like the cone that houses the rotor?

[novel spruce]

y

[clever charm]

Doubt that there is a way that doesn't unbalance the fan

My measurement procedure:
Home all
Place scale under printhead with motors on
Tare
Full fan
Run through rings

Move z axis down 3mm before

so yeah leaving quite a bit of performance on the table by doing the 33mm intake compared to the 30mm, tho 28 (stock) seems to be too restrictive. gonna plot those results and do more tests

[novel spruce]

um yeah funny thing i have the hexshape inlet

[clever charm]

you could if you want take the model and remove everything but the duct in orca with some cuts

[novel spruce]

to put a negative in the front?

Without a duct , idk if it helps you in any way

I get consistent 3.12

[clever charm]

huh if we really compare we should also take the thickness of the scale into account, i think mine is a bit further from the nozzle

[novel spruce]

Had yo move 4 mm my scale wouldnt fit

Home all 4 mm down

[clever charm]

my scale just perfectly fit when homed, but pressed a tiny amount. so i have a nozzle to scale distance of 3mm

[novel spruce]

3 mm nozzle presses on it 😅

Imagine 140 with fan off 🤣

[clever charm]

try to get the nozzle to just touch the scale and then move down by 3mm

[novel spruce]

2.73 constant

[clever charm]

damn that's a lot worse than what i was having.... odd

oh i might have an explanation for that

the shroud i'm testing out is out of petg and has spend a few hours printing asa at 60deg chamber temps

[novel spruce]

Not even centered nad improved so much

[clever charm]

welp

[novel spruce]

Held in the middle by hand

[clever charm]

got this, gonna do some more tests at 29 and 31

[novel spruce]

Also blocked the duckt a bit

I think the smallest one is the most eficient then again on mine there was still some gaps on the side to suck in

[clever charm]

huh, i'd recommend you to also do a table of the data, if you want you can send me your data points and i'll plot them

[novel spruce]

sure just tell me what exactly you need

[clever charm]

downforce and diameter

that's what i did

got these printing now

[blissful vigil]

29.gif

31.gif

[novel spruce]

Its not ducktape but its hopes and dreams🥺

thats the 25

[clever charm]

Gonna redo the whole set with the 2 new to have some uncertainty, ideally ill do a third set afterwards

[novel spruce]

3.17g 28mm

Also there is another variable mine add a little more depth from the fan

Yours its directly on the fan mine stick outside of the case some more

[clever charm]

Yeah I can't really take that into account, but if both of our curves show the same maximum I think that would be the right one

i'll add another step to the procedure, tare the scale before every test with fan off

got a 0,5g difference between now and before

[novel spruce]

The 30 and 33 one dont think matter on mine cause of the double edge inside

I did tare them every run

Cheap scale cant be trusted that much

30mm i get 2.87 3 runs

[clever charm]

damn i get 4,25

seems that the extra length and not perfect fit doesn't help with efficiency

[novel spruce]

On 33 i get 2.82

But now the question is

Does it really matter that much

I ptinted this last night and it came out great

• the mouth suport broke off

[clever charm]

adds to the look

[clever charm]

nope, but it would be a waste to leave that performance wasted if it's basically free

[novel spruce]

Touche

[clever charm]

ok so it seems that having a flanged inlet compared to not having one slightly improves stuff, but nailing the inlet diameter is something else

not the most accurate data, but it shows a clear picture. gonna test 32 just to be 100% sure and then apply this to the shroud

3min print time per ring is negligable

[novel spruce]

30 + the blade duct 2.79 seems weird

30 simple is 2.84 so if push comes to shove i can trade some performance for the bling 🤣

[clever charm]

it might sound stupid, but i think that this little performance matters quite a bit for overhangs

[novel spruce]

Yes probably especially on pla but if we get better than stock i take it

[clever charm]

yeah about that.. i should test

would be quite stupid to be worse than stock

but there is the elephant in the room of, does downforce indicate cooling performance? (at least for the same duct design)

[novel spruce]

I aint dealing with the pegs for a while Xd

[clever charm]

wdym? they are so fun xD

for real tho, i love playing with them xD

[novel spruce]

I still have leftovers let me be i also cut my hand in the corner one when screwing it in

[clever charm]

i should maybe make some spares too xD sorry for your hand

[novel spruce]

Im so mad i cant figure out cad

[clever charm]

have you tried fusion360? it's really approachable (for cad software)

[novel spruce]

Yup and so far the only thing thats seems somewhat esier its blender of all the things

I did this in fusion took me like 3 or 4 hour of continuous work and it still dosent sit rigth

[clever charm]

i don't understand you... blender scares the living shit out of me... i should learn it one day but i just feel lost. there is a donut of toolbars for each menu

[clever charm]

some stuff can be very difficult even if it doesn't look like it

[novel spruce]

I said it looked and felt a bit easier not that i know how to use it

It has a pluggin cad sketcher and it felt easy as a cad

[clever charm]

those 2 faces took me several hours and dozens of attempts to get like this

[novel spruce]

Oh damn

Its just i can achieve the shape somehow even if i butcher it but for the love of ne i cant get the dimensions and tolerances rigth

[clever charm]

did you base it off the cad model or real measurments?

[novel spruce]

Cad model i dont even know how to begin to measure a shape like that

[clever charm]

also it might be the reverse engineered cad which might have some inaccuracies. like with the toolhead: no one in their right mind would place the left side screws 0.3mm behind the right side screws, yet elegoo does this. and this is very easy to miss

[novel spruce]

But if i change the dimension of a side everithing just becomes spaghetti

[clever charm]

also you need to plan in clearance, i go for 0.05 - 0.5 depending on what needs to fit how

[clever charm]

ah you need to constrain your sketch correctly

ok so 31mm is the clear winner

idk if i should try 30.5mm now

i'd regret not doing it i think...

[novel spruce]

will you make it integrated in the final design or as a addon?

[clever charm]

integrated, very difficult to make it an addon as it needs to be as airtight as possible

tho i don't think that i will reprint it just for that, i mainly print asa nowadays and don't really need the extra cooling

[novel spruce]

but arent you tempted to print asa at room tmep ?XD

[clever charm]

nope xD

i'm tempted to watercool the toolhead, insulate the steppers and use epdm belts

and reprint all parts out of pet-cf cause the gantry blocks won't survive in those conditions out of asa

[novel spruce]

and still wanna call it centauri carbon?

[clever charm]

well it's gonna be real carbon you see

i usually call it annoying cube

so much unnecessary annoying stuff with it

[novel spruce]

alteraaltered carbon

altered*

[clever charm]

centauri graphene

and if i ever watercool it, centauri hydrocarbon

ok 30,5 or 31 is basically identical

31 it is cause bigger looks cooler

Looks like I killed sonic

[novel spruce]

funny thing i did a eggman cosplay i could have used the rings

[clever charm]

all of that for a 13% increase in downforce... idk if it's that worth it xD

also gonna check with the duct of the printhead i have, the one with the non broken face

[novel spruce]

the zombie one has personality

i wanna ask what is your profesion it seems like you know about everything is it just hobby or you in the field?

[clever charm]

Currently none, which is why I have the time for this 😅

[novel spruce]

oof

[clever charm]

Ha Just snapped a peg

[clever charm]

to give a better answer xD i studied physics for 2 years, then dropped out cause i just couldn't deal with the boredom anymore, so i went to work for a bit. now i'm gonna go get a diploma that involves a lot of cad that builds upon my 2 years of study

[clever charm]

also i mainly know that i don't know enough xD baconmilshake knows a lot more than i do

[novel spruce]

well he did design a new extruder

did you learn the cad in school or self learned?

[clever charm]

Self taught. Learned a lot through various 3d printer projects, and probably the most by doing a 3d printed cello

[novel spruce]

cello?

[clever charm]

This thing #1370828067173564427 message

[novel spruce]

oh it looks awesome

[clever charm]

OK so current shroud gives me 3.75g

So there is about 0.5g to gain from 2mm of intake reduction

[clever charm]

I can assure you that the timeline doesn't 🤣

@noble mesa so this is what the intake diameter testing resulted in. gonna reduce the intake diameter from 34.1mm to 31mm, it's gonna incrase downforce from 3.75g to about 4.3g. Just hope that my assumption that in this scenario, downforce is correlated to cooling

[novel spruce]

ik ai is not that apreciated but check what gpt had to say

https://chatgpt.com/share/698fbd77-1734-8004-90b3-3de4485def90

[clever charm]

So when evaluating intake diameters, treat the question as “Is the intake restrictive or not?”, not “Which intake gives more downforce?”.
Welp chatgpt is not happy with me

[noble mesa]

holy shit I stop checking discord after my my lunch break and look after work and @clever charm has done a fully suite of duct testing haha. it will take me a min to ig through thi

[alpine quartz]

did i just see someone use blender for CAD

cursed

[clever charm]

not here for this xD

[alpine quartz]

oh it was SZ haha

[novel spruce]

oh cmon dont shame me they were the only tutorials i understood

[alpine quartz]

i believe there’s a print based off the injection molded CAD provided by elegoo

[alpine quartz]

No shame, i just think it’s very much worth it to learn a proper CAD like fusion or onshape

i tried doing a blender donut tutorial and gave up after 10 mins 😂

[novel spruce]

well i didnt find tutorials that i could understand

also cad sketcher in blender worked nice for me

if any of you could suggest some resources for learning im all ears

[alpine quartz]

well the official autodesk videos and guides are very good

beyond that, i like Product Design Online videos

[noble mesa]

this is sexy data. you said it wasn't super accurate but IMO it is- the individual data points may have some jitter but the placement of the maxima around 31 mm is really solid and unambiguous. That is also kind of a lot of performance improvement gap too- 15% is a lot.

I'm definitely gonna change the gamma intake to fit this and ill cite your work on this. Do you have like a personal webpage or anything or should I just link your printables?

[clever charm]

i've had a personal webpage planned for 5 years now xD but printables works nicely too, got an intership thanks to it.

[noble mesa]

also: hotwire anemeometer - https://moderndevice.com/products/wind-sensor

arduino compatible, they have a newer one that is supposed to be slightly better but this is cheap

[noble mesa]

link it or DM me and I'll throw that in too!

no shit where at?

[clever charm]

i got the framework for the site. it's a very simple html/css page but i have literally done 0 content for it

[clever charm]

i think you're gonna start to recognize it xD https://www.printables.com/@clogged_nozz_2035917

[noble mesa]

oh no I meant the internship

what kinda company

[clever charm]

oh it's a small 3dp startup that specializes in doing small runs of production or replacement parts for stuff you can't get anymore. basically the most easy application of 3d printing in commerce

not the most flashy thing ever, but better than nothing

[noble mesa]

oh thats fun!

[clever charm]

hope it will be yeah, gonna start next week

[noble mesa]

I mean its a real issues for sure- I can't tell you how many times in my lab I've needed some random thing from an insturument that was made back in the early 2000s. I'm sure its the exact same in the production landscape

[noble mesa]

Congrats!

[alpine quartz]

congrats on the internship

[clever charm]

from what i understand it's like this yeah. replacements/improvements for parts that aren't in production anymore

gonna play with a really cool idex printer

[novel spruce]

congrats i hope you stillgonna play with us XD

[clever charm]

oh yeah. the cc has a pretty tough "modding curve" for lack of better word. but now it's running so good that i really can't complain at all now

also can't wait to have kalico on there

[noble mesa]

yeah I think its gonna be a gamechanger. the CC has such a good base platform held back by a few stupid issues

[clever charm]

should try putting some super thick grease on the X axis rods to further cut down on the rattle and then the only issue that bugs me is the crunchy sounding steppers. got an idea what causes this? mostly apparent at low speeds

[noble mesa]

prob just the stealthchop settings they used and motors, but I wouldnt be too worried. It probably doens't help that the CC has uniquely good sounding board panels for motor vibrations

[clever charm]

i mean like odd noises, not stepper running noises. oh i think input shaping shows this off very well too

[noble mesa]

oh weird- maybe rattling of toolhead parts? hard to know, the cc carriage doesn't have great preload around the bearings. I'd be curious how the printable versions do

[clever charm]

i'll record it, but it seems to not care at all about what frequency is being agitated

[novel spruce]

https://www.printables.com/model/1581567-elegoo-centauri-carbon-toolhead-light-diffuser @clever charm an idea mby for the camera mod to not be blinded by the led

[clever charm]

ok i want this now

[mossy pecan]

is there a version that holds either a biqu micro probe or preferably a btt eddy duo if not i am willing to pay a lil to get that done 👉 👈 it'd be really sugoi as the kids say

[clever charm]

I could look if that's possible, Idk where that would possibly even fit without reducing print area

[mossy pecan]

the one i think anna made has it to the left of the toolhead just sticking out

[blissful vigil]

toolhead_with_mount_v3.gif

[alpine quartz]

why not just go for beacon or carto

allows for under toolhead

[mossy pecan]

because i have spare eddy and microprobes

[novel spruce]

@clever charm what if you reverse the pegs to be on the inside keep the front open like in your zombie cage where you tested the diameters and just add the rings after

[clever charm]

I think that won't solve the weakness issue and makes for horrible installation. A good solution might be to do it like lamarc did it for his neptune 4 printhead, have the pegs be printed flat

[novel spruce]

I meant it like to create a backplate for the fan where you ut the egs and keep the front wide open just the screws

[noble mesa]

thts kinda similar to how I did gamma, the pegs go in from the back. there are various ways to do it. But do you want to open up the front?

[clever charm]

Backplate could work yeah, cause just the pegs with nothing to keep them from spinning is very infuriating

But also it doesn't change anything with durability so I dont see the point of doing that

[tight ibex]

@clever charm is there a reason for that hollow section in your CAD?

[novel spruce]

Yeah but i mean reduce the face even more make the support for the fan in the back and sides that would also shif the center of gravity a bit

But i forgot you made this to work with constelation so mby it wouldnt fit

[clever charm]

yes it's to isolate the shrinking forces from the big horizontal face that is there. in the version i'm currently working on i'll try to see if i can not find a more elegant solution to this. but basically hull line prevention

[clever charm]

it's the opposite actually, if i were to make it only compatible with the constellation it would be quite a bit smaller

[clever charm]

also the face is about as small as i can get it, at least with this visual style, the sidewall where the fan sits is already quite thin

@noble mesa had another idea yesterday. what if we extend the duct into the fan?

i'm gonna try this with 31mm and see if that improves anything

it's not really necessary, but if i can print overhangs faster i'm gonna do it

[novel spruce]

wouldnt that interfeer with the pointing? or mby with that you cna achieve the true screwless design

[clever charm]

with the what?

[novel spruce]

mounting idk what i wrote

[clever charm]

yes it would interfere but it might be ductile enough to just snap fit in there

would be cool if that allows for a no screw design

and no pegs

i'm sure that you wouldn't mind to never have to see a peg again xD

but i also don't like pegs

[clever charm]

ok that got another 2% improvement

why not

now gonna see how to optimize the curve of the flange

ok i can't find any info on this and given that it barely improves stuff from flat i'm just gonna go for looks and feel aerodynamics

[noble mesa]

yeah I was thinking about that,- it might help- I also wonder if filleting the inside ring would be beneficial too so it has a smooth flow towards the rotor.

I'm not sure if the smaller axial gap is helpful or not

[noble mesa]

oh cool

[novel spruce]

you read my sould

[alpine quartz]

was about to print this, but i see theres some duct testing going on

[clever charm]

yeah i'm hoping to publish v3 pretty soon, mainly minor improvements tho

[alpine quartz]

well i have a roll of Polymaker ASA CF08 waiting…

[tight ibex]

Made some inserts for M3 nuts

[clever charm]

at that point might aswell completely avoid the pegs, what concerns me with this is that the hex nut might strip the peg, which is also why the pegs are so big

[tight ibex]

i did, i just used M3 bolts

[clever charm]

i mean the hexagonal holes in the front, like directly just have the m3 bolts set in there

[tight ibex]

Ahh yea, I just didnt wanna reprint the whole thing.

[clever charm]

I can't find a decent way to mount a diffusor to the shroud, i think the best way is just to have one that uses a longer screw and standoff and directly screws onto the led pcb

[noble mesa]

also was my first thought but not reprinting makes sense

[noble mesa]

wait what diffusor?

[clever charm]

#1466083137967755356 message this. i love the idea

but for me it makes most sense to just screw it onto the pcb and have it independant of the shroud

[noble mesa]

what about this

[blissful vigil]

light.gif

[clever charm]

yep had exactly this in mind, only issue is where the led is placed

also i think you forgot one tangent constraint on you base sketch

v3 will have deeper and bigger shrinkage isolation channels

[noble mesa]

oh whoops forgot to leave that unfilleted

[blissful vigil]

Component328.gif

[noble mesa]

lol I probably forgot a lot of things like that

tbh you could also just bring the the back panel over the pcb a little bit more, and then have a little cutout that the user just glues a round dome printed in clear material in. Or even just a strip of oiled paper.

honestly oiled paper would likely be better because clear PETG probably isnt going to love being right above a 100 C bed printing ABS

[clever charm]

you'd be surprised xD, my first constellation was out of petg and survived for quite a while

printinng asa in a 65deg chamber

[noble mesa]

ye but this is like <5 mm above the bed

I guess its not structural

[clever charm]

also would have to think about blocking the light from reaching the endoscope directly, tho a bit a sharpie might just do it

[noble mesa]

plus like are you even living if you aren't appropriating japanese culture

[noble mesa]

oh thats a fair point- usually we would do this with a small shroud of matte material around the lense to cat glare but I'm not sure if the fish eye effect makes that not possible without messing up FOV

[clever charm]

oh yeah forgot about that apprach... just a lens hood 🤦 that would be overall beneficial

[novel spruce]

@clever charm an complicated idea , solder a conector instead of the led on the pcb and move the led on the back bumper at an angle and will increase vision on the nozzle and buildplate

[novel spruce]

for glare another stupid idea would be to take a pair of cinema 3d glasses and fit the filter in it and with a good enough positioning you can get max brigthness and no glare kinda like the filters for cameras than make even the water cristal clear

[clever charm]

you could do this, but i really like the surrface mount led cause it's simple and really difficult to break

i've broken too manz zh 1.5 connectors xD

[novel spruce]

still nothing like the pegs

[clever charm]

https://giphy.com/gifs/scared-family-guy-stewie-cEOG7nGA7448M

i wonder if i should just provide a gcode file for the pegs, which prints at super high temp with no fan to be sure to not suffer from bad layer adhesion

[noble mesa]

yeah but the pegs are a 3 minute pint. fixing the led wires involves breaking out the soldering and dealing with desoldering and resoldering smd components.

also probably not great to have the led not backed up by a copper clad PCB to act as a heatsink

[novel spruce]

well we can always print something like a case that screws in the pcb aswell and keeps the connector secure and for the led heat some copper tape / smaller led?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObdcScUEICM and for the glare i was thinking for this trick one lens over the camera and one over the ligth source

on the same ideea as polarized lense for cameras or even glasses i think

[clever charm]

gonna print v3 now, hope that it's the final version without a brand new cfd duct

[novel spruce]

sneak peak?

[clever charm]

It's mesmerizing to watch

[novel spruce]

So this is the version that snaps inside the fan?

[clever charm]

Yes, and that has a smoother outside cowling, tho thats purely aesthetic

[novel spruce]

Im tempted to change my white aestethic for red like yours looks cozzy XD

[clever charm]

I'm going for black with red accents now, just like on the render

I should make new renders for the hex duct

Looks like the groove and slicer shenanigans work, I cannot for the life of me see a hull line

[novel spruce]

What exactly slicee shenanigans?

[clever charm]

Don't quite remember, the list of things that's in the model page 😅. Just applied those settings and it works

[novel spruce]

Also how do you print it in 2 colors with pause and filament change?

[clever charm]

Yep

Also applied fuzzy skin to the outside and it looks promising

[novel spruce]

Can you send some feed from the printers camera ? I wanna see if your light balance fluctuates nuch

[clever charm]

Nope, it's broken

[novel spruce]

I think cause mine is in white its keeps darkening the soroundings

[clever charm]

The webui just barely functionnal enough to upload files 80% of the time

[clever charm]

Oof yeah that thing must be blinding

[novel spruce]

Now its not too close but if it goes nearer it just goes almost full dark

[clever charm]

Yeah I think you got no way of controlling that with oc

[novel spruce]

Oh btw your asa print setting work phenomenal on petg with default petg profile

[clever charm]

On a Standart klipper install with a decent Webcam you can manually expose it to avoid this

[clever charm]

You mean the process settings?

[novel spruce]

Y

Tuned the scarf seam a bit and is almost seamless

[clever charm]

Yeah I use them for everything, from tpu to paht-cf

[novel spruce]

What printers use it? The centauri is my first printer so not much experience but everyone praises klipper

[clever charm]

Pretty much every diy printer with a non brain dead owner, neptune 4 series from elegoo. And idk about most commercial printers, I have eyes for more exquisite stuff now 😂

[novel spruce]

If i did build a diy one how much of a price to expect? XD

[clever charm]

Depends on how creep resistant you are but 1-2k

[novel spruce]

I think i like more the modding and diy part of 3d printing than to try and design

Euro?

[clever charm]

Yep

That's why the cc is such a competitive printer

[novel spruce]

With that price id go for the bambu elaser for engraving

[clever charm]

Bambu is more than dead to me, I don't ever want a propriety locked down printer where every issue has to be resolved through customer support and not a simple cheap fix

wooo orca has finally actual speed preview, that's so nice

[noble mesa]

I like this idea

[noble mesa]

says the CC owner
/s

what does the CFD you were working on show

[clever charm]

i love fusion's render engine

[noble mesa]

oh that looks nice

[clever charm]

hey not my fault, elegoo gave it to me

[noble mesa]

I didnt know you could do lights like that

[clever charm]

if i'd had to pay for it i wouldn't have gotten it

[noble mesa]

oh wait you got it for free huh

[clever charm]

yep simple emissivity stuff, but the fusion materials tab has lots of stuff, like texture and roughness translucency etc

[clever charm]

haven't done any yet

and it's more a hope than anything else for now

[clever charm]

yep rebuilder giveway, made lots of guides

@novel spruce this is how mine looks, not very stable either, but the back toolhead will probably help with this

[novel spruce]

Yes but the idea of a multitool is apealing to me

By multitool i mean other than printhead

But i wont ever have that kind of money to spare mby if i can get more tehnical and learn to design to earn something

[noble mesa]

it would be fun with a tool changer to do the cowling in white PET-GF or something, but then have the hexes and core of the front be in T-glase or clear PET, that way you could have a 24 v led pulling power from the fan 24v rail (always on) that shines into the pet core and creates a nice glowing hex inlay.

but thats kind of a shitload of work and needs a toolchanger. idk might actually be possible with like 6 manual changes

[novel spruce]

Still more balanced than mine

[noble mesa]

honestly don't buy an H2D for the laser engraver. its a super expensive add on, needs a large external filtration box, and laser cutting fouls the motion system.

its like a spork

[novel spruce]

One of those cheap optic fiber lamps glues the strands on the outside ? Then fill with something

[clever charm]

You absolutely had to say this did you.... That sounds oddly doable

[novel spruce]

When you live in a 2 bedroom apartment you want all the space "saving" you can get

[clever charm]

In that case try to find a fablab and use theirs, imo a personal laser specially at that size isn't worth it

[clever charm]

If you want I can send you the fusion file if you want to play around with it

[noble mesa]

you will save more space buyin a U1 and xtool. also this is what bambu doesnt show that you need to run the engraver

For the 2500-3200 an H2D and engraver combo costs you could Buy: an U1 which can tool change faster and doesn't need the AMS at all, and get an Xtool laser engraver which is like the bambu of laser engravers, save space, and still have 500-1200 dollars leftover to spend on hookers and blow

[noble mesa]

looool its because I'm evil

[novel spruce]

If you to the led thing try to make it breathing patern

[noble mesa]

I'm not quite that motivated haha

[clever charm]

Neither am I 😂 so let's just not

[noble mesa]

sounds good

[clever charm]

Gonna make the step available eitherway so if someone is dieing for this they still can make it happen

[noble mesa]

I also don't own tglase, taulman is out of buisiness and theres only a bit of stock left at a few places, and clear PET is super hard to find nowadays

[clever charm]

What about pctg?

Since it's not structural it should be fine

[noble mesa]

I mean its a compatible polymer, honestly if I wasnt using PET I would just go with PETG for the core since its only a thin layer as you said

[clever charm]

Seems like tglase is left in the past, can only find 3mm spools

[noble mesa]

yeah its kind of a relic at this point. easiest way to get clear PET seems to be to mae it out of waterbottles now. But actual PET kinda sucks to print

at least without CF

[clever charm]

Even got some pet cf and clear petg

[noble mesa]

I do too... ughhh I dont want to do this but I do.

maybe one day

[clever charm]

Want the cad 😏

This project is an exercice in scope creeping

[noble mesa]

lol nah I dont have 24v leds anyway

[clever charm]

Those aren't too hard to source

[noble mesa]

and my scope creep is gonna be to fuck with the toolhead and motion system

[noble mesa]

you are terrible XD

[clever charm]

And you aren't?

[clever charm]

Yeah at that point my toolhead gets wrecked by the a4t or other cpap stuffs

[noble mesa]

fair point I actually have 24v neopixels, they are the nice ones with 4 channels and daylight led so its more natural. of course they look funky without the data channel routed so I'd not want to bother. also more difficult mounting

[clever charm]

So you do have 24v leds, you see. Now everything that remains to do to is the model

[noble mesa]

yeah thats why I dont wanna put to much effort into making the 5020 cowling look super nice, I'd really just prefer standard 4010s

[clever charm]

I took it as an opportunity to learn to make better looking models and organic shapes, and also I want screws and no floppy flop

[noble mesa]

learning is always a good excuse for a project. I want to build a PEEK capable printer out of this autosampler rack I got on ebay (it came with THK rails!!!). bedslinger with bellows over the bed and an airfyer type blowr running 150+C air over the part, then the entire thing in a secondary chamber at 80C so the toolhead doesn't need water cooling and belts, motors, and rails will be fine.

only problem: I'm too cheap to actually buy PEEK filament to print on it

[clever charm]

https://tenor.com/view/charlie-day-gif-18564553

[clever charm]

You could also convert your cc to take a hot air station duct to the toolhead like you showed me

Idk thk but I imagine that they are very good?

Wait, can my neptune print peek?

I think it can

Wtf

[noble mesa]

ye but then I need a peek capable printer to print the an ultem BLTouch

[noble mesa]

probably, but the real question is can it print peek well?

and the answer is no, no it cannot

[clever charm]

A what... 😂 Whyyyyy

[clever charm]

Youre not gonna pressure me into buying peek just to attempt this

At least not succed

I hope

[noble mesa]

because scopecreep is a terminal illness

[noble mesa]

don't follow my path, I already have 25kg of peek-CF30 pellets in my closet

[clever charm]

Couldn't this all be done a simple stupid limit swith?

[noble mesa]

limit switches melt

also you need it to be able to retract above the printing plane

[clever charm]

Sexbolts dont

Or sensorless homing, just jam it 😂

[noble mesa]

but you still need a housing that wont melt in a 150C chamber. And usually the thing inside the sexbolt that gets trigged is an omron

[noble mesa]

the chube could take it lol- glass bed prob cant

[clever charm]

So the smart answer is to just don't peek

Still would be amazed if someone printed peek on a cc

[noble mesa]

basically yeah. at that point you might as well just mill it unless you need the chemical resistance of peek or are doing stuff that would be hard to mill. Honestly sirayatech sculpt ultra is pretty good for heat resistance and is really stiff, itsj ust more brittle.

and I've done that on a $300 msla printer

[clever charm]

Just taunting me in that hot chamber

[noble mesa]

as long as it was klipperized and had an alternate hotend that could go up to 450C (which isn't too hard to get) it wouldn't be very hard to print peek. it would just have the layer adhesion of pastry dough and flake apart.

most industrial printers you see that say they can print peek dont do it well because they are only 80C chamber. 150+ is really where you want to be

[clever charm]

Yeah resins allow for some crazy stuff. Just don't even want to get into it, I know that the safety and overall effort will annoy me to hell

[noble mesa]

I have my resin printer boxed up and havent used it for a year or two. the mess and safety headache just isnt worth it

[clever charm]

Oof, makes sense. I'd rather breathe some styrene

[clever charm]

Lol

Well then

No hull line whatsoever

Hard to tell with the picture but the inside edge of the gap is slightly raised

Doesn't look half bad either

[lusty bronze]

We're all cheap, that's why we have CCs 😂

[novel spruce]

Imagine a led in the peg for glow effect 😆

Also you wrote in chat hotair gun im thinking to use mine to speed up vhamber heating 🤣

Use the spool holder hole

[clever charm]

You guys are the worst..... I've been scopcrept enough😭

I really like this...

And the Fan really snap fits in there. Still needs something to keep it in place, but a spring latched peg might just work

[novel spruce]

Now the scale test 😆

I wanna ask dosent it block a bit the flow to the heatbreak fan?

[clever charm]

a bit, but there is more room than i have there. well if you install it correctly. i'm using the wrong duct and just have it angled cause i don't have m2.5 screws xD

[novel spruce]

Ah yes gotta love the jank

[clever charm]

I don't understand it... I won't question it

Didn't expect to get such a huge improvement

[novel spruce]

I think its bcs of the chamfer

Its better for airflow to have chamfers around the intake

[clever charm]

So I'm getting a 33% increase from v2 to v3

[clever charm]

Yeah but my test rings also had chamfers

[novel spruce]

Mby the radius is different

[clever charm]

eitherway that's nuts

[novel spruce]

@clever charm i finally found the name of the front duct that increases flow