#CC bed flatness

1 messages · Page 3 of 1

errant fjord
#

yea but its not STAIT yet

supple tinsel
#

STAIT?

errant fjord
#

I gotta take a full turn out of that corner yet

#

strait

supple tinsel
#

oh

errant fjord
#

but its bed shaped ..

#

instend of volcano shaped

supple tinsel
errant fjord
supple tinsel
#

you will prob need like a 14-15 mm spacer not stardard but I guess shim washers could work

errant fjord
#

naa that is MT fuckyou lol

#

I have 12 and 10mm alumiums comming tomarrow

#

and 1mm silcone washers

supple tinsel
# errant fjord

that peak to back left corner trough looks like 0.3 mm so similar

image.png
#

I feel like it just looks better because of the z axis scaling

#

I don't really think swaping to a different kind of spacer will fix the overall bed warp/volcano, my anecdotal experience was more just that it improved probing reliability and I didnt get like crazy points or non-trigger probe positions

#

I'll gram my mesh

errant fjord
#

yea I think solid spacersa re the way to go

#

if you cant trust the probe this all meaningless

supple tinsel
errant fjord
#

yea I got drunk and broke mine lol

supple tinsel
#

lulz prints fine

image.png
errant fjord
supple tinsel
#

this is with yours with the simulated z adjust

image.png
errant fjord
#

mmmm tacos

supple tinsel
#

yeah I have to say the bed is hot garbage in general.

errant fjord
#

I don't disagree but it looks like a 1mm shim would bring yours true 😛

#

*582h later

supple tinsel
errant fjord
#

how many mm in spacers did you end up with ?

lime cave
errant fjord
#

You don't have the strain gauges anymore do you

lime cave
errant fjord
#

.........

#

what

#

try again in american

#

either way those numbers dont make no sense

#

where is your plain / max / min height at

#

I am surprised it probes at 4mm

distant plaza
errant fjord
#

well yea if you arent klippered it will

#

it expect the bed mcu

#

my understanding is the min/max of the plane need to be +1 - mm

#

but closer to 0 is better

#

because we can't adjust our relative z

#

*yet

lime cave
errant fjord
#

I want to know why the hight plane of the bed is making the bed less t acoy

#

like that seems to be the case

#

that should NOT matter

#

Unles the frame is tweaked

#

makes no sense

lime cave
#

Min -.19 max .008 deviation .199

errant fjord
#

yea altho looking at your pictures are those white spacers sitting on the gauges or on the steel

#

it needs to be on the steel else you will compress the top of the gauge and the bottom

#

that matters

#

might explain your weird spikes

#

the way it works is that cut out pice of steel flexes and the gauge is bonded tod that

#

if you press on the gauge its self it wont read correclty or will be wonky

#

as it compresses and decompreses

#

the gauges works on that pice of cut out steel flexing

#

the gauge stays fixed

lime cave
# errant fjord I want to know why the hight plane of the bed is making the bed less t acoy

The frame is clearly bent. It was obvious from new. The object was to isolate the frame from the bed mechanically. The spacers are pressing on the body of the gauge. I tried with fitting them just to the centre of the frame, where the screws are, that didn't give sensible results. The screws are used mainly to keep the spacers in position X and Y, only just engaged, about 1 turn

errant fjord
#

yea but I am wondering if the none-sense results are correct

#

because I dont think the gauges work correctly if you press on the expoxy directly

#

they bend and inresponce the reistence changes

#

bent unevenly should be worse

#

I wonder if you cadded up a custom spacer

#

that fit nicely over the gauge

#

if it would do anything at all

#

so yea dont press on the gauge body I think what needs to happen is they need to use a different mount

#

something more flexable

#

then just epx right to some cheap metal tabs

#

I wonder if it might make sense to cad up a spacer that sits on the center of the tab like a tri-pod

#

so the force is equally transmitted

#

or something U shaped that sits in the center

#

and is located with the center hole

unborn olive
lime cave
unborn olive
#

I'm not sure we're talking about the same thing here

lime cave
unborn olive
#

oh, I thought you meant the entire frame, those are often bent

errant fjord
#

I mean if the bed frame is bent

#

the the entire unit probly got dropped or something

#

so the entire unit is now sus

#

but the bed frame you could probly print out of something decent

#

probly ppa

#

but if frame is bent then just shim the frame

#

or do you mean the accual bed

#

I discard my hand and pay 50LP to summon Keeper of the book: @supple tinsel

#

do we have cad models for the metal fixing frame for the bed ?

supple tinsel
#

You shall know my fury

latest.png
supple tinsel
errant fjord
#

what about the steel frame that the bed mounts to ?

#

err osorry

#

the stupid platic thigns that ride on the screws

supple tinsel
errant fjord
#

well you could have the frame printed or cncd

trim thistle
#

JLC CnC ?

errant fjord
#

haven't checked jl yet

#

jl is more expensive

#

about 100/150 for plastic either pc or nylon6

#

you can have it cncs in 6061 alu for 123.00 usd though JLC tho

supple tinsel
#

I'd do laser cut steel personally

#

actually waterjet. would be more flat

errant fjord
#

I do have a cnc laser

#

but It wont do metal

#

... yet

#

need to replace the driver and diode assembly with something much more thiccc

supple tinsel
#

tbh laser wouldnt be that great because it can cause deformation. waterjet would be better

errant fjord
#

I got one of those old medical laser from a ewaste aution

supple tinsel
#

I should really see if I can just get time on my college's waterjet

errant fjord
#

gonna mount it ot the carriage

supple tinsel
#

like, you have this enclosed right with proper systems for power delivery and motion?

#

and interlocks

errant fjord
#

lol no

#

safetys deleted

#

its instent blindless

supple tinsel
#

operating a scrapped medical cutting laser with all safety features ripped out might be the dumbest thing I've ever heard here

#

pls dont do this

errant fjord
#

lol

#

just dont stare directly at the light

#

lol

supple tinsel
#

you are trying to trigger me aren't you

errant fjord
#

looooooool

#

I mean if you want I can find anouther styropyro video for you

#

he makes this contraption look ... safe

supple tinsel
#

is this thing even closed? how do you deal with specular reflections potentially starting fires or blinding you?

supple tinsel
errant fjord
#

if a kid can cram it into a old raydar gun

#

I think I can do it

#

🙂

#

161w out ouput power before he juices it up to over 250W

#

WATTS

#

not mw

#

litterally probly visable quiet easily from space

#

could accually hit the iss with it

supple tinsel
#

NO NOT A LENS

#

this is such a fucking bad idea

#

please tell meyou have certified glasses for what you are doing and not aliexpress specials

errant fjord
#

I mean is 18 bucks a roll on amazon certified ?

supple tinsel
errant fjord
#

I don't dispute that

supple tinsel
#

this is insane. I love how the beam is bouncing of the bottle right onto him with very high inensity

image.png
supple tinsel
errant fjord
#

you know what else is used for healing

#

skechy medical lasers bought at auction for 50 bucks

#

lol the laser litterally lights a penny on firee

#

but as far as knives in a blender with no lid safety goes that laser is butter knife

#

this how ever scares the shit out of me

#

every single point of physical contact on that abomination

#

is instant death

#

touch the input power die. touch the cap chain die touch the array of microwave transformers die ... touch any part of the scary af cold war era vacume tube yea you die

#

you know its scary when styro only turns his GIANT variac to 70% power

supple tinsel
#

very cool, I am fond of old tubes. I have built a few things with them

trim thistle
#

I have a decent collection of tubes

errant fjord
#

well elegoo is sending a new bed

unique salmon
gritty lance
# errant fjord well elegoo is sending a new bed

lucky , they didnt want to send me more piece ( bed / sensor ) , they literal ask me to send my 600h printer back to them again ! ( second time in one year ) They gonna send me a new one again . roosip notlikeduck finaly gonna have the led bar upgrade for free xD ( like 1 month ago they ask me 60usd for that upgrade xD )

unique salmon
gritty lance
gritty lance
icy nest
#

This might explain why I've been having issues

Screenshot_2026-01-30_at_10.37.27_AM.png
errant fjord
#

what in the spike that killed dracula is that

#

bad sensor ?

upbeat agate
#

I got a replacement bed for my Centauri Carbon however I ended up just getting the whole machine replaced by Elegoo support. So now I have a spare bed I am selling lmk if anyone needs it!

supple tinsel
errant fjord
#

solution

#

take both bed apart

#

tig weld them togetor

#

now you have a6mm bed

icy nest
# errant fjord bad sensor ?

Not sure. Levelling didn't fix it, swapped beds and cleaned everything and it stuck around. Rerunning the entire auto calibration did seem to correct it but no idea if it's gonna last or just go to shit again

prisma knot
icy nest
#

That would make sense. I'm waiting on some parts for elegoo. They didn't tell me what they're sending though 🤦‍♂

icy nest
#

They ended up sending me a new main board, a new bed sensor board, and four of the load cells (I think)

Basically half the electronics 😂

Wish me luck

icy nest
#

Update; replaced the bed sensor board and load cells, re-ran the auto calibrations, got this for the bed mesh.

Didn't crash into bed, but it did lower the nozzle so low it started to print into the textured PEI 😮‍💨

Bed_Mesh_1.png
prisma knot
distant plaza
#

Should I mess with leveling?

image.png
supple tinsel
distant plaza
#

sounds good

unborn olive
jagged wyvern
#

This was my cc1 bed mesh, after manually leveling the best I got it to was .41mm. I packed the machine up and returned to the store I brought it from and upgraded to a cc2c

Screenshot_2026-02-01_191531.png
fierce finch
#

Hey, my bed mesh is so smooth I could ski down it. My prints are also coming out squished on the upper-left corner of the bed. I'm afraid it's a tramming issue, but I've never trammed a printer before and don't know how to do it.

The physical bed itself appears level-- I used a bubble level to adjust all the sexnuts until they were even.

image.png image.png
trim thistle
#

Bubble level is a fair start, not very precise. The box has to be "trammed" first.

fierce finch
#

Any resources on doing that? Found the Bambu one that you posted

(I had some other text below, but I later realized the back left corner of the bed was a little uneven because I'd been printing with zeal. Fixed it, running the Auto Level in settings, crossing fingers)

cosmic marsh
fierce finch
fierce finch
#

Sorry, I've had a very busy week and my brain was tired. Just got what you meant by the bed-- the sheet itself. Was adjusting it again last night, was careful putting the sheet back on, and between tweaking and that, ended up with less than half a mm deviation. So happy about that ❤️

dense steeple
#

been having lots of issues with bed levelling, and recently some issues with layer shifting that I attributed to the bed levelling issues. A few mins ago I found out the nozzle was a bit loose and printing at an angle 🤡

image.png
supple tinsel
trim thistle
#

@dense steeple The nozzle should be tightened while at operating temp, or at least at enough ° to melt whatever material you are printing.
The heater barrel must be supported during torquing as to not transfer force to the printhead.
I don't have a torque measuring tool at home, so the tightness is a guess. Tight but not enough to break the threads. Repeated cooling and heating is the classic recipe for loosening threads.
I'd avoid thread lockers, the filament will ooze into the the upper threads, making some retention.
I suspect a loose nozzle may be from some insufficient torquing.

That USB cord very susceptible to breakage, Elegoo did not do a very good job at copying Bambi's printhead cord design, you should pring one of the supports for this.

dense steeple
supple tinsel
supple tinsel
supple tinsel
#

oh it actuall broke in a few places seems more brittle than most materials I'm used to

image.png
dense steeple
supple tinsel
#

higher bed temp could also help. TBH the top plate should be printable with the fan completely off. The rest of the parts probably need a bit of air but not a ton.

dense steeple
#

I've heatsoaked the chamber until 40-45, and I had tuned the filament settings before printing. But, looking at my picture again, the fan duct is a bit off, and I just remembered I used the wrong screws to attach it 😅 so there were plenty of issues that could cause a break I think

sturdy chasm
#

hey guys quick question: wtf do i do here?

image.png
supple tinsel
sturdy chasm
#

i could technically buy one on Thursday, the board is in stock in a store that i may go to for an interview

supple tinsel
prisma knot
unborn olive
#

what's the failure mode on loadcells? adhesive detaches?

supple tinsel
gritty lance
steep reef
#

Seems decent enough compared to others. Been having some minor issues with some prints on the door side left of my build plate.

unknown.png
sand rampart
# steep reef Seems decent enough compared to others. Been having some minor issues with some ...

If you're referring to the front left corner, when looking into the Centauri Carbon, I know that a lot of people have had issues where the magnetic bed is a tiny bit lower than the plastic lip at the front, so the very front of the build plate where the purge line typically goes ends up being bent higher than expected; and since the leveling takes place further away from the edge, the CC might not correct for that.

steep reef
sand rampart
#

It's a separate issue from the screw adjustments; from what I've seen on reddit, it's actually considered a fault in construction, and you could talk to support about having them send you replacement parts to fix the issue.

I've got the same issue to a small degree, but I don't know if it's worth going back and forth with support (in my case).

Your options (if you actually have a raised lip, see below):

  1. I've just shifted my initial prime line g-code to happen a few mm further back from the edge, and I avoid putting prints right there.
    1-b) You could even go so far as to define that section of the print bed as un-printable in your slicer, and then auto-placing models won't accidentally set them there, or it'll warn you if a model would be in the area you define.
  2. at your own risk you could take a box cutter/dremel and just manually reduce the plastic lip until it's perfectly even with the magnetic bed. Just don't damage the magnetic bed.
  3. get a flat aluminum sheet, 0.8mm thick, the same size as the build plate. That should allow you to still slap the plates down with magnets, and it might even be flatter than it was before. Or not, but the lip shouldn't interfere.
  4. Contact Elegoo support about sending you replacement parts. This is probably the slowest and highest-effort option to solve this specific issue, but it is an option.
unborn olive
#

doesn't look like a raised lip to me

sand rampart
unborn olive
#

or at least try the screws first. Loosen rear screws by half turn or tighten front screws by half turn, remesh.

steep reef
#

Roger all that. There’s a couple other factors for my case too which may play a more important part than anything potentially physically wrong. I had loaded the plate with 3 large prints, pla on the stock build plate. Have changed the setting slightly, running a .2 nozzle, and the filament is older than dirt but I live in the high desert so being ‘wet’ isn’t really an issue.

sand rampart
#

What's your bed cleaning regimen? Especially with the front corners, where you're more likely to briefly touch the plate, it's possible that skin oils could interfere with adhesion.

#

And even if your humidity is relatively low, it might be worth drying your filament anyway, especially if it's really old. I've had minor issues with brand new PLA that clocked around 24% humidity, which disappeared after I dried them to 10-15%. If your filament has been sitting out long enough, it could have absorbed just enough to become slightly finicky.

unborn olive
#

10 year old PLA from my garage prints fine, that's the last place I'd go looking for problems

steep reef
sand rampart
sand rampart
steep reef
sand rampart
#

Also worth doing a first layer test and live-adjusting the z-offset. It resets after you re-level, like if you swapped nozzles and re-leveled then, and I've had to adjust it to anywhere between 0.1 to 0.8 to get perfect first layers.

#

You don't need perfect first layers most of the time, if everything else is going well enough, but never hurts and doesn't take much time to dial in.

steep reef
#

Interesting. I’ll keep that in mind.

restive osprey
steep reef
trim thistle
unborn olive
trim thistle
#

You (usually) get what you pay for

supple tinsel
unborn olive
trim thistle
#

A Bambu for $1400 is much better than the CC for $300. However, $300 I spent without thinking for two seconds.
The closed source software for the CC seems to keep delivering unwelcome surprises. New hardware maybe needed to get full control of the CC, but then the cost advantage may be lost.
@unborn olive did you get a replacement for the CC?

unborn olive
#

oh, and for root ssh access you just have to press a button in the menu

steep reef
#

doing a full bed print of PETG now, so fer zero issues.

prisma knot
unborn olive
prisma knot
#

Sometimes the wire breaks or detaches

unkempt basalt
#

got this printer a few days ago nekoFine

bed_mesh_map_enhancement.png
unkempt basalt
#

wot2do? strips of kapton tape on both edges?

#

loosened the rear right a bit...

bed_mesh_map_enhancement.png
#

rollin' the dice

AP1GczNt2_gqc3xHrTk2X0AUIf_8IbG_Qg4zw1sFE-2hA5_FNXJ7WgzWEjqGdAw1327-h999-s-no-gm.png
#

it takes 16 minutes and 15 seconds to complete a bed level on 121.1V

#

tape fail

bed_mesh_map_enhancement.png
sand rampart
unkempt basalt
#

i was hoping for a godly level of levelness dogekek

#

bbl, moar tape

sand rampart
unkempt basalt
#

i guess i should've went with duct tape for a sure fix?

supple tinsel
#

see this (#1433037643767222272 message) for more details, but this is the difference between a bed mesh at 60C, and 110C. Basically things change by 0.35 mm over that 50C range. And its not just a z offset change, the shape does.

image.png
unkempt basalt
#

for bed temps i usually use either 30c or 60c

#

i should try one at 30c for shits and giggles... if i ever figure out how

supple tinsel
unkempt basalt
#

power savings 🙂

supple tinsel
supple tinsel
unkempt basalt
supple tinsel
#

they advertise the smooth plate as working at 30c but it is really pushing the low end of usability, I definitely reccomend running it at 50C at least with PLA. One print detaches and snaps your hotend and you are out way more money than the energy savings nets you

unkempt basalt
#

i'm pretty good at designing things to stay stuck on the bed

supple tinsel
supple tinsel
unkempt basalt
#

moar tape: epic fail

bed_mesh_map_enhancement.png
supple tinsel
#

not that it really matters that is what the abl is for

unkempt basalt
#

what if i stick a plate of glass on top?

supple tinsel
unkempt basalt
#

another layer of glass and magnet and steel plate dogekek

supple tinsel
#

tbh glas prob is too

unkempt basalt
#

might it be too heavy and affect the load sensors too?

supple tinsel
#

the real answer is get a mic6 bed machined. but thats $$$

supple tinsel
unkempt basalt
#

also, bbl, moar tape.

supple tinsel
#

honestly if I was going through all the effort I'd just switch to real klipper and get an eddy current probe

supple tinsel
unkempt basalt
#

i can't help it. my first printer was a tronxy x3 which i upgraded the crap out of

supple tinsel
unkempt basalt
#

eventually gave up because 2020 extrusions are too noodly and not even straight/flat

supple tinsel
#

its a fast track to driving yourself crazy

unkempt basalt
#

bed mesh tools? bolbcatgooglyconfused

supple tinsel
unkempt basalt
#

too late

supple tinsel
#

turn back before its too late

unkempt basalt
#

at least this leadscrew tattoo isnt permanent.

#

solo leveling attempt #4 in session

supple tinsel
unkempt basalt
#

clearly this issue is not an non-issue

supple tinsel
unkempt basalt
#

one thing at a time. first i'll get it level at 60c, then figure out how fsck'd i am at other temps dogekek

supple tinsel
#

the real problem is a combination of very poor leveling and homing implementation as well as cheap 3mm rolled aluminum plate

unkempt basalt
#

i see moar tape in my future

#

possible new problem: tape affects heat transfer and causes warping mid-print.

supple tinsel
supple tinsel
unkempt basalt
#

my old printer was aluminum -> HOTGLUE (wut) -> glass -> magnet -> steel/pei plate

supple tinsel
unkempt basalt
#

nope.

#

the hotglue was a bad idea. it made glass warp (but i guess it fixes itself after heating up?)

supple tinsel
# unkempt basalt nope.

ok so. you should probably realign your objectives here- the bed being flat does not matter on the CC. like at all. ABL takes care of everything and autocompensates Z. the only issue is making sure ABL is actually representative of what happens to the plate at temperature, tape is not gonna fix that issue. You can get it nice and flat at 60C, but as soon as you drop to 30C your tape shim job wont actually have shimmed it flat anymore

unkempt basalt
#

i only fix what i see

#

i have a hammer. everything else is a nail.

#

correction: i have tape! blob_pin

supple tinsel
#

this by the way is what the bed looks like heating from ambient to max temp

#

if you hammer it it wont change the warping behavior, it warps because of internal stress. it will just warp from a new starting position into a different one

unkempt basalt
#

latest leveling results coming... in 30 seconds! SmolExcite

supple tinsel
#

sorry I'm too much of a pessimist

unkempt basalt
#

i added tape on the blue side. looks like it didn't do much... or anything at all

supple tinsel
#

really though- try printing a solid one layer sheet across the entire bed at 60C. that will tell you much more about usablility. repeat at 30 if you want. it will probably be worse

unkempt basalt
#

moar screw twiddling tomorrow

unkempt basalt
#

i tried to do an auto bed level at 220c/30c right before a print. epic fail it was.

mpv-shot0001.jpg
unkempt basalt
#

much fugly

bed_mesh_map_1772316610_enhancement.png
latent garnet
#

so which i sthe most up to date tool for visualizing the bed mesh?

unborn olive
unkempt basalt
#

ln -s /board-resource/printer.cfg /app/resources/www/ to make your life easier if you don't do ssh/rsync/scp

mystic glen
#

Hello, here is my bed mesh on side A with a Biqu plate. Is it bad ?

newplot.png
unkempt basalt
mystic glen
#

I didn't try to export the mesh with the original, but after adjusting the screws I managed to get 0.238mm in deviation

newplot1.png
#

Calibrating with the side b of the original plate right now

#

Side B :

unkempt basalt
#

much better.

mystic glen
#

Tested first layer print with the biqu plate

IMG_20260306_162726.jpg
mystic glen
#

Isn't there a way to calibrate the bed at the printing temperature instead of 60 ?

unkempt basalt
mystic glen
#

Added these two lines after to do a fast calibration with the right bed temp

;;===== date: 20240520 =====================
;printer_model:[printer_model]
;initial_filament:{filament_type[initial_extruder]}
;curr_bed_type:{curr_bed_type}
M8213 ; Turn on light
M400 ; wait for buffer to clear
M220 S100 ;Set the feed speed to 100%
M221 S100 ;Set the flow rate to 100%
M104 S140
M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single]
G90
G28 ;home
M729 ;Clean Nozzle
M104 S140
; These lines
M8210 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ;Set bed_mesh_temp
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE METHOD=fast ;Run secondary (6x6) calibration at temp
robust olive
#

@unkempt basalt got my printer bed flatness values, the 11x11 and 6x6 are "the same but different" not sure how to put it into words
(1 - 11x11; 2 - 6x6)

9O76B82.png 7DlG0Rl.png
#

something that weirds me out though, if we already store the 11x11 mesh and we do not have the choice to change the bed temp for the calibration, what's the point of the secondary calibration ?

robust olive
unkempt basalt
robust olive
#

no idea why the level delta is bigger than the raw one though

unkempt basalt
#

in your case, raw level difference can become even smaller if you tighten the rear right a teeny tiny bit. but you're already close to the limit