Constellation Extruder Family

[mystic sleet]

ahhh would you just look at that utterly disgusting timeline

[little galleon]

What's different?

[little galleon]

I've never seen a timeline that looked good 😂

[mystic sleet]

different ecas mounting hole, i made it for the sf initially but just split it and merged it with the bottom half of hf and it works

[primal oak]

/s

it looks really nice haha, I am still rather skeptical it will hold up long term but am curious how it does

[obsidian berry]

@primal oak I don't suppose there could be an alt filament cutter model that could use the qidi plus 4 blades? They seem very similar just shorter and with one mounting hole https://uk.qidi3d.com/products/plus4-cutter-blade

[primal oak]

unfortunately not. because of how elegoo did the filament cutter cutter you need to have a 5mm hole with the right distance from the blade tip to allow for proper pivoting and it really needs to have two holes because printed parts with walls as thin as they need to be wont hold up to the torquing from a pivoting filament cutter motion. I've looked at basically all available blades and couln't find one that will work. It might be possible to implement a much easier to manage pluge cutter like most printers and bambu uses, but that requires homing and filament cutting macro changes we can't implement in addition to a bunch of CAD work on the toolhead and elsewhere to support that actuation motion.

But really unless elegoo releases CC1 AMS or you plan on doing a full klipper conversion and doing an open source MMU the filament cutter is actually entirely unneccessary. plenty of people have just removed it and the printer works just fine.

[obsidian berry]

Ah damn - makes sense. Thanks for the explanation

[rare lance]

Does anyone know where to buy the pin for the tensioner?

[obsidian berry]

You can grab one on AliExpress probably? By my measurements it's M3x15mm

EDIT: To be clear, the small pin that holds the small gear in place is M3x15mm. The longer pin that entire tensioner pivots on is M3x24mm

[rare lance]

Thanks. I am looking for the pin that the assembly pivots on.

[mystic sleet]

It's the one from the stock extruder

Same for the spring

[obsidian berry]

Oh yeah, that too

[primal oak]

yeah. tbh its a good idea to have some random 3mm shafts laying around.

I happened to use some 3mm carbon fiber rod for the pivot point because I had it. saved like 0.7g so its not really worth doing if you dont already have it

[sterile ledge]

I used some iron wire found in the backyard, its 2.9mm so maybe closer than something from AliX. I am known for being agricultural with this sort of thing. The quick and easy way is to just cut the head off any longer 3mm bolt you have.

[mystic sleet]

Should use peek bolts too for weight savings

[primal oak]

I actually have PPS screws and PEEK spacers, but those are for thermal isolation on the bed mounts on my ant printer

peek rod is quite cheap though

[primal oak]

I would not use a shaft that is that off, especially for the pin the tensioner gear spins on. Ideally you want H7 tolerance pins, but regular pins will do provided they are decent

definitely don't use a bolt though for the tensioner gear. the CC tensioner gear just has a bushing and an m3 thread will eat it for breakfast

[mystic sleet]

Yeah peek is quite buyable as long as it's not filament

[mystic sleet]

Struggeling to PID tune my hotend with mze. anyone ran into that issue?

[primal oak]

I have not, do you have the sock around the mze?

[mystic sleet]

Yep

Also struggles to heat up with the fan off

[mystic sleet]

Running with the included 45w heater

That might be the issue here

Iirc one can get 80w for tz hotends which would be perfect for working at higher temps

[primal oak]

this is the one I am using. its probably flying a bit close to the sun on the included cable but the wire should be able to handle it espec since actual draw is lower at temperature.

you can also get an tz or x1c 60W heater. I think the main issue is that it won't mount easily with the cc heater since it is bigger

[obsidian berry]

Grabbed a small supply of what I think should be equivalent parts from Ali. Feels good to have spares on hand. Should have everything I need to reassemble the stock extruder to have on hand and I'm only a Neptune 4 gear set away from having a drop in ready Constellation CS as well if I wanted

Ali only had M3x22 then M3x25 steel pins, I'm sure at least one will be fine though

[mighty pawn]

please replace your PSU if you do that

the 100W PSU is already loaded to 95W or sth

[obsidian berry]

The listing I grabbed my TZ3.0 from describes the heater (potentially inaccurately) as a 48W heater and that has been working perfectly fine for me with the DLC V6 MZE

[mystic sleet]

I know I had to delay my chamber heater startup sequence cause the fans were drawing too much power 🤣

[mystic sleet]

400w is enough right? I might upgrade my neptunes psu and shift it one down

[mystic sleet]

Seems like I might have a different issue then...

[mighty pawn]

sure

and might want to figure out a better toolhead cable

not sure what that's rated for

[obsidian berry]

Just an FYI that I ordered this (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010229887474.html) set of Bambu screws and the included "MG 3-14" screws seem to be the right size! Calipered the non threaded portion at about 3.15-3.17 mm

Shame there's only 5 and I had to buy a full set, but not the end of the world as I always need random hardware for something

[primal oak]

I really wish I had a lathe to turn down some M3 4mm shoulder bolts

[mystic sleet]

Woodworking lathe should be able to junk this right?

[obsidian berry]

Damn, those are some soft bolts. Not sure if I recommend buying them at all

[mystic sleet]

Damn that's sad

[primal oak]

prob with a file should be ok enough

[torpid urchin]

unrelated to the extruder topic, but have you tried one of those LDO 300w psu? i’ve got one here and I was wondering if anyone has installed it in their CC

[obsidian berry]

I want to say that @fiery vigil has one but I also think it might be in their FF AD5M, not the CC

[mighty pawn]

negative, I'm just running a 200W meanwell PSU hanging under my CC

[fiery vigil]

I do have it in my AD5X

If I do a heater in a CC I'll add one to it as well

[torpid urchin]

k, i’m planning on replacing my CC psu, might give it a try, but i’ve a feeling i’ll need to extend some wiring a bit because the connectors are on both ends of the psu

[mystic sleet]

i think i found my issue... it seems that my ceramic heaters are curved. so there only is a small contact patch, and i don't think that put enough thermal paste on there to cover the bend

[mystic sleet]

huh is it normal for the male part of the mze to be longer than the female part of the tz hotend?

Moar powaaaa

Triple sock

[mighty pawn]

oh jesus

that poor toolhead board

[mystic sleet]

i'm not plugging both in at the same time

just leaving the other one to help the clip stay in place

[mighty pawn]

I see

[mystic sleet]

but now it heats up quite fast and works

@mighty pawn is it normal for the mze to only be in contact via the thread?

it seems to be 1mm longer than the hole in the heatblock

[mighty pawn]

yeah, i have the same issue

so, seems normal

[mystic sleet]

well that can't be good

ig that's 1mm of free extra meltzone

[mighty pawn]

it's called melt zone extender after all

[mystic sleet]

https://giphy.com/gifs/hamlet-drake-computers-laptop-800iiDTaNNFOwytONV

[mystic sleet]

tempted to throw some copper sheet metal in there

[primal oak]

Woah how tf does that happen

[primal oak]

Yes

[mystic sleet]

good question. i bought a few at the same time and they are all banan shaped

[primal oak]

Should be fine as is. I think cnc kitchen showed that just throwing a volcano nozzle in a V6 block worked ok. Tbh you will never get great heat transfer between the block and flat part of mze because to do that you need tight contact whichnmeans you very likely couldn't have the preload you need on the beck side of the nozzle and it would leak.

[primal oak]

Wtf

[torpid urchin]

m

[carmine lodge]

i

[mystic sleet]

n

[primal oak]

t

[carmine lodge]

a

[mystic sleet]

YOU FUCKED IT ALL UP

[carmine lodge]

no u

I thought we were going for mintaka, the famous quintuple star system 1200 light years away :(

[mystic sleet]

ah yes very famous

[mystic sleet]

Ready for baking

And my spool is ready for drying too

[mystic sleet]

this explains a lot of my issues i think.... the pink part is a collet i made based of measurments of the ones i have laying around. and since they are cast alu maybeidk they break the shit out of everything

it's just massively oversized

[mystic sleet]

bright pink is the one in the model and the other is mine

so i slightly changed the hole geometry and made it a touch bigger. but i think my issue is just that my collets are non standart

[primal oak]

huh interesting. I used the voron model for the ECAS collet so I assume its correct/standard?

[mystic sleet]

yeah probably.... i got the cheapest ali collets

[mystic sleet]

OK gonna make the feed hole a bit bigger, tho thats probably 100% user error printing wet filament with no shrinkage

[primal oak]

did you store this stuff in a swimming pool?

that abs is... frothy

[mystic sleet]

That's after cleanup btw

[mystic sleet]

Pet

[primal oak]

BUY AN AIR FRYER

you do actually need something better than regular filament dryer for this. food dehydrator would work

[mystic sleet]

Yeah I guess that drying it at 70c isn't dry enough huh

[mystic sleet]

I'm looking to get a cheap one.... You know what I'll go shopping this afternoon

[primal oak]

I think PET needs like 90

oh its actually 100-120

[mystic sleet]

that doesn't sound right... you don't want to anneal the spool right?

[mystic sleet]

it's what siryagoat recommend yeah

[mighty pawn]

80c (8h) - 100c (4h) drying is fine

print from a running dryer is required as well

[primal oak]

thats actually from their pet-gf page

and yes... that is when it starts annealing this is why they say to dry this stuff as little few times as possible.

[primal oak]

its better to print out of a box with dessicant

[mighty pawn]

I haven't had issues drying their PET-GF at 85c for 12h at a time lolz

PET literally sucks the moisture from dessicant, that's something you defo don't wanna do

[primal oak]

85c is prob a bit below the ideal nucleation temp

[mystic sleet]

well fuck me dry then

[primal oak]

just use dry desiccant- I've not had issues with freshly dried molecular seive

[mystic sleet]

all i got is a food dehydrator. some dryboxes and a microwave

[mighty pawn]

I refuse

[primal oak]

sad I can't threaten with ban because anna mod

[mighty pawn]

skill issue, honestly

[mystic sleet]

is this one good?

[mighty pawn]

[mystic sleet]

Happy now?

[rare lance]

Is there a trick to getting the bowden pressed in? My parts are anneled and I can't get it to push in

[primal oak]

Fancy

[primal oak]

Put collet face up on table, hold the extruder body directly by that part, and press down.

Also did you do a dry run of annealing this filament first to test shrinkage? The fit is tight so if shrinkage is not accounted for you likely will not be able to get the collet in

[rare lance]

Did not account for shrinkage

[mystic sleet]

i think i'll install mine before annealing, when the filament is less brittle and stiff. also you might have a collet that is out of spec like mine

[rare lance]

I was able to push it in but it cracked

[mystic sleet]

what version were you trying? you could print mine which is HF a bit more leniant with the ecas fit

[rare lance]

I printed the HF

[mystic sleet]

#1399590824898990170 message here it is if you want

[primal oak]

yeah the 0.5=1% shrinkage you get in annealing will definitely push it ove the limit for being able to get the ecas to fit. Ditto if the part is overextruded

[rare lance]

Looks like the issue that came from annealing was the bowden not fitting

Bearings and extruder gears all look to fit

[mystic sleet]

@rare lance if you got some calipers maybe measure the outside diameter of the collet

[rare lance]

Is the collet the bowden?

[mystic sleet]

the ecas-04 fitting

[rare lance]

The lip is 9mm and the body is 8mm

[mystic sleet]

your lip is 0.5mm bigger than the cad... that could explain stuff

[rare lance]

The ID of the hole is 8.3mm

[rare lance]

So should I press in the collet then anneal?

I am using PPA-CF

[mystic sleet]

that might be a safer bet, and i think the collet is up to the task, maybe leave the blue bit out just in case

makes it easier to insert too

[rare lance]

There is also a plastic piece on the bottom also

It covers the teeth when you push in the blue bit

[mystic sleet]

if i'm not stupid that is nylon, i think it's up to the task

[rare lance]

My package of bowden pieces are all separated so I can just put it in without the blue bit.

Which is better to use for this PPA-CF or ASA? ASA doesn't need to be annealed correct?

I just got some ASA delivered.

[mystic sleet]

yeah asa doesn't need to be annealed, but if you print in a heated chamber it won't last very long

[rare lance]

I will be printing sometimes in a heated chamber. I just received a chamber heater to add.

When I annealed these parts in my air fryer it blew casting sand all over the place. I might try annealing without the casting sand.

[mystic sleet]

anneal in a cast iron pot if you got one

that's what bacon does and he knows a lot more than i do xD

[rare lance]

a cast iron pot in the air fryer?

[mystic sleet]

yep, to keep the sand in one place

[rare lance]

I was thinking of placing foil over the top

This is the pan I use

[primal oak]

idk asa hasn't caused me problems

[rare lance]

Are you using a chamber heater?

[primal oak]

foil is fine but you do need some kind of packing material to keep it from warping. even if bearing holes are fine if there is warp the ecas hole may be differently affected.

[primal oak]

yes, up to 70C. I am using ABS-GF, but GF doesn't really change HDT that much in amorpheous polymers like ABS

[rare lance]

I think I will just reprint the 1 piece in PPA-CF to match the other pieces. If I need to reprint I'll print in ASA.

[primal oak]

tbh it sounds like your ecas are kinda nonstandard

[rare lance]

I pack in casting sand and put foil over the pan so the sand doesn't get blown everywhere.

[rare lance]

Probably, I got them aliexpress.

My caliper is from harbor freight

[primal oak]

should be just a bit over 8mm, nominal diameter for that lip

[mystic sleet]

lol some really go ham with the teeth

[primal oak]

I'm not going to make a joke...

[rare lance]

Correction the body is 8mm. I had it half on the lip and body.

[primal oak]

woah flange is just as big as the rim

[rare lance]

https://tenor.com/view/the-office-steve-carell-michael-scott-thats-what-she-said-gif-20446601

Is there only 1 size bowden? 🤔

[rare lance]

That the body

[primal oak]

there are other pneumatic tubes, and other sizes of ECAS connector, but they are very rare.

[rare lance]

Okay, thought I got the wrong ones.

[primal oak]

no, just kinda non-spec ones

[rare lance]

Probably rejects from the factory.

[mystic sleet]

Better?

[primal oak]

does look better, hard to tell with the harsh lighting tho

[mystic sleet]

gonna get better pictures tomorrow, but i don't dare open that door... it reeks so bad

[primal oak]

huff it, you'll see god

[mystic sleet]

i can't even stand in front of the printer without wanting to throw up xD... now got every window open and a big draft

[primal oak]

nah that smell just lets me know that I'm not dead yet

[mystic sleet]

i should maybe look into what pet ofgasses, cause i'm not feeling so good

[primal oak]

oh I was thinking ABS.

tbh PET shouldn't in theory be much worse than PETG

[mystic sleet]

well idk what sirya tech and polymaker are doing, cause both smell absolutely horrid

[rare lance]

I printed the bigger file but the ID is 8.5mm so I won't be able to fit the 9mm lip. Might have to return these for another 10.

[mystic sleet]

It's got an indent for the teeth to rest in

[rare lance]

I ordered some from Amazon. They claim they are the standard dimensions.

[rare lance]

Got the bowdans from Amazon and they fit perfectly.

[primal oak]

I don't what what youre talking about, thats the smell of potential

[primal oak]

tbf that dan needs to be bow-ed

[rare lance]

I only have 3mm and 5mm long heatsets no 4mm. Should I just use 3mm?

[mystic sleet]

isn't it 5mm eitherway?

yeah it's 5mm

[primal oak]

3mm is fine

[primal oak]

holes have to be 5mm but inserts are 4mm long- you need the extra hole length for platic that gets pushed in.

[rare lance]

Almost done just waiting on a pin I ordered. The only piece I will need is the spring, blade and fan.

[mystic sleet]

make sure to tighten the hotend while hot or you sign yourself up for some funny looking prints

[rare lance]

At like 140 or higher?

[mystic sleet]

i do it at 250

and unscrew at 300

[primal oak]

you should be able to reuse the stock pins

and all of those parts as well

[rare lance]

I know but I am keeping the stock extruder together except for the blade and fan for a backup

[mystic sleet]

you can always go back to it by disassembling it. it's very easy and i've done it before i had hs v6 nozzles

[rare lance]

The filament is not lining up with the hole once the extruder gears are in.

must be shrinkage

[mystic sleet]

did you calibrate it?

also is your annealing setup correct?

i get basically no shrinkage even on huge parts

[rare lance]

calibrate?

[mystic sleet]

with a califlower, or a big print

[rare lance]

I only have an air fryer I use

[mystic sleet]

and lots of bedding to have the heat be even?

[rare lance]

pack a pan with casting sand

[mystic sleet]

huh yeah that should be hard to beat

[rare lance]

I bored out the hole with a 7/64 drill bit

Still a no go 😫

[mystic sleet]

i drilled mine out with 2.2 mm whatever that is in burgers

cf filaments need bigger tolerances due to the texture it gives

[rare lance]

1/8 of an inch bit did the trick

We will see saturday when my m3x24mm pin comes

My soldering iron burnt a little when placing my heatsets

It's still strong through.

[mystic sleet]

you placed them before annealing right?

[mystic sleet]

also the arms going from screw to screw are more or less useless

[rare lance]

No I placed them after anneling

[mystic sleet]

that's not optimal, when putting them in you remelt the plastic and it cools down way too fast to crystallize

[rare lance]

Guess I'll have to reprint

[mystic sleet]

tbh i think it'll be fine since the most creep prone parts don't have heatsets in them

[mystic sleet]

i think you could reanneal too, or just let it be

eitherway since you're making a spare eitherway you can print with this one until it doesn't work anymore

[rare lance]

I'll let it be. I printed 2 so I have an extra.

[lethal basin]

what do you recommend for filament? i'm planning on running up to 320c. also will auto bed levelling still work with the constellation?

[glossy river]

people have been using PPS and PA

[lethal basin]

well if you want temperature resistance you can't argue with pps. any issues with creep with PA components?

[obsidian berry]

people have also been using ASA (me) and annealed pet-cf (clogged_nozzl3)

[lethal basin]

any issues with the ASA? PET-CF seems like a good choice as long as it fits together after annealing.

[obsidian berry]

None that I am aware of, but I haven't particularly abused it as some others might 🤷‍♂️ Nice to be able to use accent colours which I can't with PET-CF

[lethal basin]

have you done any printing at 320 c?

[mystic sleet]

yep

it works

[mystic sleet]

you might be able to do some with petg (don't quote me on that tho)

testing required!

[mystic sleet]

i've had some creep with asa, but nothing too dramatic

[lethal basin]

i wouldn't trust petg, thats like a 20c downgrade in heat deflection from asa

[mystic sleet]

also make sure to tune your flow properly or else it will most likeley end up breaking

[mystic sleet]

yeah petg won't survive, it's probably enough for printing in a cold chamber but that's difficult to achieve with the cc

[obsidian berry]

ask them how they know 😉

[lethal basin]

iirc hdt of petg is around 65c, so if you want to print nylon or PC it's right out

[mystic sleet]

yeah but to add to that, it's under temendous stress. i think as a rule of thumb an extruder can push about 5kg, so you have to take into account that the hotend is getting pushed down with that force and the only thing preventing it from going is the print itself

so it might work, but will creep heavily

[little galleon]

ASA-CF has been fine for me, although I haven't tested it a whole lot

[mystic sleet]

#1399590824898990170 message

[lethal basin]

all good to know, i've already got a spool of ASA lying around. PPS or PPA is probably the perfect filament for this project, but for the price of a spool i could just get a micro swiss hotend & nozzle.

[mystic sleet]

but the microswiss doesn't come with the rest of a spool of good material xD
Also pet-cf is imo the cheapest high performance polymer, i can get it for 30euro/kg and it's stupid strong

but asa should be just fine

[lethal basin]

both good points. i've been planning to get some fiberon pet-gf for some other high temp projects and it's only like $30/kg

[mystic sleet]

if you can source some for the same price, get sirya tech. as our resident milkshake says it's the gold standart

[lethal basin]

same price, just grabbed a roll

[lethal basin]

what was your annealing process? did you pack the components in sand?

[mystic sleet]

yep, and then let it bake at 120c for 6h. tho i've recently learned that you can go higher temperature at a risk of warping. also went into the armchair heavy industries annealing channel to take the average shrinkage, which seems to be close enough for me to work perfectly. also got my parts with no sign of warpage whatsoever

[lethal basin]

Special sand or just stuff you get at a hardware store

[mystic sleet]

i stole mine out of my parent's backyard

[lethal basin]

nice

[mystic sleet]

tho bacon milkshake did some testing on using SiC polishing compount which seems to work amazingly well, i just don't know how much better the end result is.

[lethal basin]

looks like siraya recommends aluminum oxide sand in the TDS

fairly cheap, but i could also walk down to the river and steal sand from the government

[primal oak]

I'm using ABS-CF, I'm also running chamber heater up to 70C. vanilla abs should work ok. annealed PPS-CF or PET-CF are probably the most rigid options.

[primal oak]

even with ABS my PETG test fit prototype failed in like 2 hours. I suspect even if you are only printing PETG it would not hold up due to the heat coming off the motor. I was measuring around 63 C on the motor with the printer not doing anything for several hours with lid off, just motor energized. add above ambient temps from bed and motor moving to that and you will be be north of 75 for sure

[primal oak]

oh interesting I didnt know they reccomended alumina. Silicon carbide should be better than it in terms of thermal performance but whether that makes a difference in actual part strength or dimensions I am not sure.

I made a thread with some measurements in AHI user projects

[obsidian berry]

Any chance of an invite to the AHI server? Their public Discord links on their site and github don't seem to be working...

[primal oak]

https://discord.gg/EDaHpCBq

[primal oak]

https://discord.com/channels/1029426383614648421/1485024894767861760 thread- there is also an annealing channel

[lethal basin]

Thanks, I had the same problem as jaimbo

[lethal basin]

how hard is it to reassemble the stock head after taking it apart to make the constellation? just in case.

[primal oak]

not hard, although I do highly reccomend buying extra mr84 bearings and not just using the stock ones, especially if you might want to swap them back into the stock extruder.

also the mr84s elegoo used are trash

[lethal basin]

ty

[timber holly]

I can't figure out what the problem is. Sometimes I can't load the filament anymore. The only thing that helps is to completely disassemble the extruder and put it back together again. It sounds weird, but that's how it is.

[mystic sleet]

@primal oak feel free to verify my math but if you use the included thermistor from the tz hotend you will run into quite the issues while printing warmer.
Y axis is real temperature X axis is measured tempereature. green line is how a 3950 thermistor behaves when interpreted as a 4200 thermistor and the purple line is 1:1

would also explain my thermal runaway and pet-cf stinking issues

i was printing my pet-cf at 370C

*if my math is correct

[primal oak]

looks like 4300 (btw its 4300 on CC1 according to firmware) reads higher resistance and thus cooler than it actually is basedo n this calc https://www.lasercalculator.com/ntc-thermistor-calculator/

but I'm not using the TZ thermistor, I just reused the elegoo one because the tz thermistor connector is different

[mystic sleet]

oh yeah mb for the numbrs

so for 320c i get 7.6 ohm on the 4300K, which is about the same as 375 with a 3950K. am i missing something?

i think it runs hotter than it thinks

[rare lance]

So tighten at 250 and 300?

[mystic sleet]

tighten at 250 so you have some headroom to heat further to undo it yea

[mystic sleet]

idk no matter how i turn it in my head it ends up warmer than measured.
the resistance is higher at the same temperature which gets interpreted as a lower temperature that it actually is

https://www.desmos.com/calculator/i7axitylok if you want to play with it

[primal oak]

are you using cc or tz thermistor?

[mystic sleet]

tz

[primal oak]

why?

[mystic sleet]

cause cc one broke

[primal oak]

you should prob buy another one

[mystic sleet]

why if i can just change the config to be correct?

[primal oak]

oh duh cosmos

yeah

honestly 3950 is better than 4300 because it will read more accurately at higher temps

[mystic sleet]

yeah no way i'm going back to patched or stock after this xD

just having the steppers run smoother is worth the beta issues

also might be worth adding it to the printables to use the original thermistor

[primal oak]

I'll mention it explicitly but I think I made a brief mention of it

[mystic sleet]

didn't see it before writing you here

wanna try to rule out user error first

[rare lance]

Screw holes not lining up

[mystic sleet]

wow that's a lot

did it shrink that much?

also i think the holes aren't perfectly lined up either, but it's close nouff

[rare lance]

I even tried the non annealed one and still the same.

[mystic sleet]

can you double check your print size with the 3d model?

[rare lance]

Is that the wrong size?

[mystic sleet]

i mena verifying if the size of the model lines up with your print

like measure distance between 2 holes in the slicer and in the print

[rare lance]

The model is 33.879 and my caliper has 31.0

[mystic sleet]

welp

that's an issue

[rare lance]

How do I select the center of the circle in ORCA

[mystic sleet]

uh idk, but you can measure the diameter and take the inner distnace and do some math

[rare lance]

It looks to be a mm off

[rare lance]

I need to make it a mm smaller

I will try making it smaller in PLA just to test to get the right size.

GOT IT TO FIT!

I filed down the half circle on the back.

[mystic sleet]

You need to remove that, it's a support just for printing

[rare lance]

No wonder it didn't fit.

https://tenor.com/view/джона-хилл-jonah-hill-facepalm-рука-лицо-долоня-обличчя-gif-7167197686338732060

It's annealed in there now

I can't even get it out of the non annealed part

[primal oak]

its hard to get out I reccomend using a fine flathead screwdriver. or something. it might actually be easier to remove from annealed. If this is nylon its prob gonna be harder than abs or PET generally

[rare lance]

I filed it down. Does the back part need to be removed too or just the piece sticking up?

[mystic sleet]

The whole support needs to be gone as the stepper motor is there

[rare lance]

I'll try to pry it out with a small flathead. Do I need any pieces from the elegoo hotend?

[mystic sleet]

Only the thermistor

Oh and heater if you can make it fit

[rare lance]

The heater fits in the plug but the cable is really long.

The thermistor fits in the plug but it doesn't stay in

[mystic sleet]

Apply some thermal paste and use the clip to prevent it moving

[primal oak]

huh? you run it up the little notch in the clip that holds the heater on

[primal oak]

I just bent it back and down

[rare lance]

I'm not talking about putting it in the hotend, I'm talking about the plug on the board.

[primal oak]

oh

[rare lance]

So I need to switch the thermistor?

Do I have to put thermal grease on it?

[primal oak]

use the CC thermistor

[primal oak]

yes, ideally

prob not required but its a good idea to do so

the tz hotend should have come with some gd900

[rare lance]

Mine did not come with any.

[primal oak]

you can get by without it for now but its prob worth getting either some gd900 (cheap on aliX) or better option is some boron nitride

[rare lance]

I ordered some from Amazon. Should be here today

https://a.co/d/0bl9qj24

[obsidian berry]

I also didn't get any included paste with my TZ, but I have copious amounts of PC thermal paste. How does something like gd900 compare to good PC paste?

[rare lance]

Probably not as heat resistant. That's probably why the paste on my elegoo hotend was powder when I pulled the sock off.

[primal oak]

don't use pc thermal paste- there are only a handful that are nearly as heat resistant and they are like 3 times as much as slice boron nitride and half the thermal conductivity. gd900 is probably similar conductivity but is cheap as chips

[obsidian berry]

spec sheets put it at -50c to 240c which actually seems worse than thermalgrizzly kryonaut which reports -250c to 350c 🤔

[obsidian berry]

whelp, guess I gotta buy some gd900 or boron nitride

[primal oak]

yeah but gd900 is known good to at least 350 in this application. you can def use kryonaut- but its like 10 dollars a gram. slices stuff is like way cheaper than that.

granted if you have kryonaut you can use that, but its worse in both price and conducitivity

worse in terms of conducitiviity compared to bn, prob not gd900

[obsidian berry]

I just happen to have loads of kryonaut already but I'll probs grab some boron nitride for future. thank mr bacon

[rare lance]

Finally complete. I'm waiting for the thermal paste to come but basically done.

[obsidian berry]

Damn @rare lance that looks very nice

[mystic sleet]

Yeah idk what you did but it looks better than mine

[little galleon]

I think it's the CF filament and the black screws

[mystic sleet]

mine are simliar, but it might also be wet filament in my case

[rare lance]

Thanks

Now I need to level my bed again

[mystic sleet]

Very good idea.... By not doing it I engraved my bed once

[rare lance]

I tried printing some ABS and the nozzle was pushing some of the filament on the plate

[mystic sleet]

oh i think you need to push the mze sock up a bit

[zinc cave]

When not using the stock nozzle setup (I run one of those Bambu adaptor mods), it is important to run a bed level before every print if you don’t wanna engrave your bed. Better to be safe and waste a bit of time leveling than fucking up your bed impo.

[primal oak]

oh I don't run bed level before every print and haven't had issues. I'm not sure if the A1/H2 adapter has a different offset or has more flex tho

[zinc cave]

¯_(ツ)_/¯ creator said to do it. I just do it because I don’t want to buy a new bed plate before I have to.

Especially since I use my cc1 mostly for higher temp filaments that need the chamber hotter so I just use that bed level time to get the chamber even toastier.

[rare lance]

Heatsets nut came out for the tension screw which caused a clog in the hotend

[primal oak]

I'm surprised usually lack of tension would just stop extrusion and not cause a clog.
which heatsets do you have specifically? they make some that are not as wide

[rare lance]

I noticed when I was putting them in the holes seemed too big for them in a couple spots. I used the M3x3MM

[timber holly]

u need M3x5x4 ... Voron style.

[rare lance]

I fixed it with super glue. When I put the next one together I will get the correct ones.

[obsidian berry]

Is this small gap between extruder and TZ4.0 hotend expected with Constellation CS?

[obsidian berry]

Got a suspiciously good deal on the TZ4.0 from Amazon. Already ordered a replacement TZ3.0 for the one I clogged to death before I stumbled on the TZ4.0 and figured, for £5, it was worth a shot and for keeping as a drop in spare. A great deal for a fiver

[mystic sleet]

Yeah it's for the cutter

[obsidian berry]

am idiot

[mystic sleet]

It's maybe a bit wider than it needs to be, but nothing dramatic

[obsidian berry]

of course it is

[primal oak]

Yes it's for the filament cutter

[mystic sleet]

@primal oak is there a reason that the hotend fan sticks out by 1mm?

[primal oak]

? What do you mean

[mystic sleet]

the one to the left is constellation, the one to the right is stock

[primal oak]

Oh uh idk. Remember constellation happened before we had official cad so some stuff on carriage was a bit off

[mystic sleet]

ahh makes sense

if you don't mind i'll remake them so that they fit better with the amogusburner

[primal oak]

Oh ye go ahead

[main python]

Constellation_SF-CS_Extruder_shroud.gif

[mystic sleet]

oops

ok for real now

[main python]

shroud_CS_SF.gif

shroud_HF.gif

[primal oak]

thanks!

[slow delta]

before i order some parts, is both the heating element and the thermistor reused from the CC hotend, or just the thermistor?

i see options on aliex for a version with and without both

[primal oak]

just thermistor, you need the heater.

also make sure you buy the one with the seperate heater (eg not the one with the special P1P connector)

[modest flare]

Hi, is there a new version coming regarding the Canvas?

[primal oak]

Maybe but I can't figure that out untill I have the new extruder in hand.

I'll do something because Id rather not use canvas than go back to stock hotend lol

But my canvas won't come in for2-3 months so it will be a while

[modest flare]

Yes exactly, I have your extruder now too and would like to keep using it, but I also have to wait another 3 months until I get it 🤗

I hope it will be a simple upgrade instead of having to reinvent everything 😅

[sturdy lintel]

the p1p connector has both thermistor and heater routed to one connector like this, right? (link)[https://engitypeshop.com/products/ceramic-heater-thermistor-p1p?_su_rec=0YkacK99aE97vMQhrAEoyIyV7QBEX3ABqYwLs-zHOYx-UYqgSILcW3L1hSBZjsX8QQMQvCgsbQ79OggmnBl3KQ6WrQSir8_G6Md47iM3MTNG4j57Oa4BEtR6nnWLau-L6ESjR5ILvcuUnp8OQksv-uGIcfH_QGkicVAemIX0k_Ebu9tAu5hdIOsWp2Nw90QmwbGmYBvJu2X9zLVYiFuDh5Tqqxi1Nmo_iRBMV3RMM0HdpBULFgYRHhInddtUXA&_su_rec_id=50f7f2c5-9560-4d63-9c98-e3e84066f7a3-1777656539]

I fear the tz 3.0 kit I got has that style

I'm also seeing what looks like a 3d-printed part within the tz3.0 heatbreak, that fits into all the gaps of the fins; that's probably just to protect it during shipping, right?

[obsidian berry]

I ordered a pair of TZ3.0 after destroying my old one accidentally and it also came with what I figured was a 3d printed air funnel for the heartbreak fan.

That's how I left it installed at least

[sturdy lintel]

oh, mine is also (barely) angled towards the central fins as a funnel, interesting

[primal oak]

yeah this is the p1p one, you do not want these, but the heater plates are cheap anyway

[primal oak]

yeah I have seen that on newer ones, mine did not come with it, i think a few other people removed theirs as well

[obsidian berry]

Damn, I overlooked the need for the M2.5 screws for the constellation cs. Double sided tape it is 👀

[nova bloom]

Has anyone made a full assembly guide for the constellation yet? I'm having a hard time using the .step file as it only lists 3 of the 10 heatset inserts

[primal oak]

unfortunately I have not. I will probably do that soon since I need to make a few minor changes anyway

the HF CAD has the full set of heatsets and all versions are basically the same, sf and cs just have one more screw and heatset add that is pretty obvious that goes straight through all three plates near the hotend

[nova bloom]

ofc I checked the sf and cs versions only lol

[primal oak]

lol sorry I didnt document super well and work/teaching got super busy

@mystic sleet hate to ask but do you have a step file for your extruder now that you update the tolerances on printing that I can use as a template? IK you sent me one before but that had an issue right? or was that because your ecas04s were nonstandard

[mystic sleet]

I think mainly cause of nonstandart ecas but also extremely tight tolerances. I remodeled my ecas and have it loaded in the cad with all the adjustments, I'll send it your way

[nova bloom]

I'm just glad you've given the community an alternative to Elegoo's fuckass design

are the changes major enough for me to put off assembling the extruder for a bit?

[primal oak]

I don't really think so, I'm pretty sure its only going to affect the midplate and maybe front. The main change is going to be increasing how durable the the ECAS fitting is and slightly raising it 1-2 mm with the hope I can later support the filament detector from the canvas upgrade so canvas will work with it

but either way I do reccomend having a spare extruder frame printed anyway since its like 20g of plastic. you can just keep new version on hand for next time you need to service extruder or whatever.

I bought a canvas kit but if I can't make the filament detector work its not getting installed lol. Id rather have a single color printer with a nat trash hotend

[mystic sleet]

especially if you like pushing your printer to death... i have destroyed 3 constellation extruders and It's all user error

[primal oak]

lol because you printed them with 0% infill?

otherwise I might do a custom config for alt filament detector whenever cosmos supports canvas

[mystic sleet]

first one petg cause i didn't have a setup where i could print anything stinkier. held up until i started printing asa (shocker)

[primal oak]

and also your prints were like styrofoam at the time because microwave drying lul

[mystic sleet]

aye that's blasphemous

[primal oak]

ah yeah makes sense

[mystic sleet]

second one indeed had underextrusion issues

[primal oak]

mypetg test print lasted all of 3 hours

[mystic sleet]

and third one was just not up the task of 70c ambient with 290c hotend

[primal oak]

sounds like you didnt git gud™ /s

[mystic sleet]

damn, mine held up for months

[mystic sleet]

i am now 😎

as i say this there is a belt that flew out of the carraige :*

[primal oak]

ngl you are one of the best design people here

I'd say you and @hard lava

[mystic sleet]

i'll let this inflate my ego tyvm ❤️

[nova bloom]

canvas is particularly bad with the stock hotend because it purges and wipes so much on during printing which caused a cold blob of PETG to adhere to the nozzle, and promptly broke off my hotend on the poop chute during a filament change

[primal oak]

me? I keep my designs a bit more old school

lenin is original gangsta

[mystic sleet]

@primal oak so here's the one with the slit, it doesn't have the struts removed like other versions i did idk why i didn't just do one file with everything i tested

[primal oak]

awesome!

[mystic sleet]

and it has both the to spec ecas and my out of spec one remodeled

i would recommend to test it with one of your collets just to be sure that it fits that

[mystic sleet]

yeah he's really good.. and his sense of aesthetics got me looking like child xD

[primal oak]

yup. this was one of my big concerns. I'm hopeful I can make constellation work with it.

I think CS with the tz4 integrated nozzles might also help reduce perge volumes. shorter melt zone but also incredibly smooth bore so no plastic to retain in camfer between nozzle and block

[primal oak]

yeah, that man's renders a pornographic

[obsidian berry]

Y'all are cute

[mystic sleet]

says mister spaceship cockipt coffee machine

[obsidian berry]

Hey! It was a genuine compliment 🙁

gassing up each others design prowess all cute like

[mystic sleet]

and i'm just jealous :(

[mystic sleet]

i was trying to include you in that compliment in a weird way xD

Btw if you ever strip the right thread of the stepper you can always fit a nut there