Trying to create a nice and smooth sliding door. Modelling it with Blender.
Will share a version once i can get it working reasonably well.
Looking for some constructive feedback π
Will continue to update here
#Sliding Door with Linear Rails (WIP)
round hawk
fluid zephyr
I think your gonna be putting a pretty large amount of axial load on the screws that hold the rollers with how far the glass is cantilevered out. Might twist the bolt in the plastic unless you have the printed wrap around to the back.
you might be able to make it work if you have the screw go all the way through the plastic and secure both sides with washers to distribute the load.
round hawk
@fluid zephyr Aye thanks for the feedback! Yeah i was worried about that. When you meant having the print wrap around to the back, is it to the other side of the pom wheel? So there's 2 walls at each side of the wheel.
In the picture, this is how it currently looks haha. undecided yet. I think having the screw go through all the way might be good and securing it with washers.
Also the center of gravity is way off without any support for the glass.. i need to think of solution for this. My idea in my head is just the tension between the top and bottom pom wheels clamping together
round hawk
maybe a small spring pin thing holds the glass and sort of locks the slider in place unless pushed with a certain amount of force.
fluid zephyr
This shows both techniques in the same model. for the load distribution technique two washer types are used, one small set against the bearing to ensure the outer moving ring of the bearing does not rub on the larger load distribution washers. the load distribution washers spread the axial loading out so it is not just on the bore of the printer part, but on the walls of the plastic too. It also lets the plastic be sandwiched compressively.
the other technique here is doing something akin to double sheer on a motor mount. when you do this the axial load is distributed across the top support between the two plates, you can make that arbitrarily beefy.
the other problem will be the slop, you aren't really effectively constraining against downward tilt with only one roller per rail, usually you would want 2+ per rail but then you cant swing the door out far enough.
round hawk
This shows both techniques in the same model. for the load distribution techniqu...
Aye sorry been busy the whole day but i saw the message. This is pretty cool! I'll try to fit this in. Either that or i gonna try another design again. Been looking into using Plasticity with Blender to get into CAD.
round hawk
the other problem will be the slop, you aren't really effectively constraining a...
Currently there is 2 rollers for both top and bottom but i agree i dont think it feels enough. I need to clear the idea of the door hanging on the side xD
Gonna chuck the link here that @split dagger https://drive.google.com/file/d/14LOYjGhs-4JjtKzOdUlhWIrymVl4s_9F/view shared for the inspiration
fluid zephyr
oh another thing I was thinking was you could do rollers on both sides of each rail so if it rotates you arepinching the plastic part. might reduce slop somewhat but I'm still not sure it would be enough
round hawk
oh another thing I was thinking was you could do rollers on both sides of each r...
I had this idea in mind too π but uh just plastic instead of wheels haha
i am also looking into figuring out the other side of the wall.. kinda tight with the current space.
fluid zephyr
I had this idea in mind too π but uh just plastic instead of wheels haha
I think you could use plastic v slot rollers, especially if they are nylon. But I'd want a bearing of some kind in there. regular rollers use 625 bearings in a pom or nylon shell
fluid zephyr
i am also looking into figuring out the other side of the wall.. kinda tight wit...
Yeah then I would just ust wide washers probably don't have the clearance without making it thicker
round hawk
I think you could use plastic v slot rollers, especially if they are nylon. But ...
Do you mean like a 2020 extrusions but 3d printed?
oh wait
fluid zephyr
the rollers themselves. say if you have bearings but v slot rollers
fluid zephyr
yeah I was thinking you were meaning printed rollers? I think you will need a reall bearing in there or else its gonna be really grabby and wear quickly. Also loud
round hawk
Yeah xD
I wanna do this a little bit more proper. I like this idea and feels much safer with the v slot roller
XD this will be a good direction
alright time for a 3rd design
XD
with the new stuff i've learned haha
fluid zephyr
I hate to say it, but at a certain point I wonder if the linear rails aren't such a bad idea given the amount of hardware to do this relatively well with rollers (multiple washer types, blots, rollers, a nontrivial amount of filament) for a result that probably won't be too robust. Cheapest I can find 2 packs of 400mm MGN9 or 12 rails on amazon is 26.50 shipped and a design using them would require less plastic.
your probably looking at 8-12 bucks for the rollers anyway.
round hawk
I hate to say it, but at a certain point I wonder if the linear rails aren't suc...
Haha for sure. Been thinking about it too. I have a spare linear rails and lots of spare pom wheels. Just making use of some old parts from old printers haha
Bunch of MGN12H
actually.. am still using the first version
Will give POM wheels a few more tries. Before throwing in the towel for linear rails. xD
split dagger
Will give POM wheels a few more tries. Before throwing in the towel for linear r...
I think you should just use linear rails anyway
round hawk
I can have the panel much closer to the frame with linear rail.
Will work with MGN12H as this are the spares i have with me now.
Sliding Door with Linear Rails (WIP)
late scarab
I think you should just use linear rails anyway
why not rods + linear bearings? cheaper, easier to maintain...
round hawk
Mmm i do have 2 spare rods too.. and bearings.. hm. it is possible too. Just wonder if the rod will deform overtime
fluid zephyr
why not rods + linear bearings? cheaper, easier to maintain...
harder to mount, less constrained. with rods you can only secure them at the ends, while for rails you can do the entire length without interfering with travel.
for a 400 mm span I'd guess youd need 12 mm rods to keep them from bending
late scarab
harder to mount, less constrained. with rods you can only secure them at the end...
still cheaper than rails
fluid zephyr
still cheaper than rails
thats gonna bend 100%. I was talking real steel rods
aluminum wont hold up, not stiff enough
and steel ball bearings will also pit the aluminum quickly. This is what you'd probably need.
https://makerstore.cc/product/hard-rod-12/
$20 a meter, so cheaper than rails, but probably not by all that much after you you add in the cost of the linear bearing
late scarab
yeah yeah, you won ^^
fluid zephyr
lol the printable rails aren't actually as bad as you might expect in certain applications. I've seen people use them short-medium term as z axis rods is things like pandoras box. Low amount of force needed to guide the axis and you can get decent enough tolerance for good prints.
round hawk
XD maybe i can give this a try with.. ASA... i have polycarbonate too but hmm..
or perhaps just PLA for cheaper
fluid zephyr
cold try it for fitment before buying rails. I wouldn't use it like that though- youd be better off with rollers even if they are sloppy. your loading along the thin layer lines along the side of the carriage, so your door could shatter.
split dagger
My ahh ainβt using the glass door ima be getting the plexiglass upgrades
I actually wanna be able to see inside my machine
fluid zephyr
ah ok, this is actually going to significantly improve the situation for you, the density of plexiglass is only about half that of glass so you dont need to worry about weight nearly as much
round hawk
probably gonna be really light for this guy xD
late scarab
I actually wanna be able to see inside my machine
lol... nope
split dagger
lol... nope
Yeah maybe better to make your own
Anyone know the thickness of the glass door and glass lid
round hawk
lol... nope
woah that's crazy price
For me with my caliper
Door 3.12mm
Lid 3.21mm
@split dagger
split dagger
Idk if normal acrylic is heat resistant for the use we might use
fluid zephyr
Now to find what acrylic to use
If I was self sourcing I'd do polycarbonate. Not all that much more expensive, but much less likely to crack when you are drilling and cutting it.
25 shiped for me
split dagger
Very cool
round hawk
ill get this printing
round hawk
Extruder clogged π just popped a stuck PLA
split dagger
Rip
late scarab
Alright linear rail version
I have one single issue with this
Where would I place now my Print sheets/Top cover since I store them there π
round hawk
I have one single issue with this
Where would I place now my Print sheets/Top c...
Hahaha your issue is also my issue too
My solution is to just extend it out similarly to the previous pom wheel version but.. uh.. i will try this first as it's the very basic type. Will do the add-ons after
i actually did manage to print a version but i have some things i need to fix.
round hawk
i think the bridge in the middle is too long and its bending. Might have to rethink that.
aside from that, working pretty well and isnt tilting downwards when the door is hanging
split dagger
Try metal rod or wood rod inside the bridge
round hawk
Hmm.. i do have metal rods..
probably needs to be adjustable because maybe the linear rails aren't truly parallel
i can probably keep it the same but have like a spring like thing in the middle of it
like tolerance gap
or something
Gonna take a short break on this model for awhile. I wanna work on switching my Sonic Pad to debian for my N3M
worldly pollen
That's awesome! Great progress
round hawk
That's awesome! Great progress
Thanks!! Yea looking forward to refining it further.
I plan on having it extend it to work with spacers
perhaps intergrate it with spacers
pseudo oasis
Any update(s)?
round hawk
Any update(s)?
No Updates yet! Been swarmed with work and getting my Neptune 3 Max to work well. I can say im close to getting my N3M kind of done and will jump back to the Centauri π
Hoping to print the centauri carbon parts with the N3M
minor pecan
I had printed this in PLA a while back, and was just looking at reprinting it in PETG. However, I noticed that there was a piece* that "fell off" of the build plates in my slicer when I loaded the .3mf file, and when I finally got it back onto the plate and visible it turns out to be far too large for the CC's build envelope.
Is this mod not printable on the CC? Or is that piece, as the object name suggests, from an older, obsolete version?
*CC_Linear_Rail_Sliding_Door.stl_5
Also, the object CC_Linear_Rail_Sliding_Door_v2.stl_4 seems to have zero volume.
round hawk
I had printed this in PLA a while back, and was just looking at reprinting it in...
Hi and yeah! Itβs printed with the Centauri Carbon. I have not tried with PETG before.. Give me awhile i will take a look at which part it is.
hmmm dont think im seeing the same parts as you for some reason.. are you alright with giving me a screenshot from your side?
i assume it might be the piece on the right thats sticking out the build area? I might have to squeeze that in a bit
round hawk
Also, the object `CC_Linear_Rail_Sliding_Door_v2.stl_4` seems to have zero volum...
Im starting to think you might have my silly version where.. i think this piece.. was out of the build area. Faaar far hidden (wasn''t in my view in orcaslicer)
and i deleted it
i think..
minor pecan
In the .3mf file there's an object called CC_Linear_Rail_Sliding_Door.stl_5.stl, looks like this.
round hawk
HAHAHA
minor pecan
lol
round hawk
uhh dont uuse that xD
minor pecan
So I can safely ignore that?
round hawk
yaep
minor pecan
Good to know π
minor pecan
gotcha
I looked at printables very briefly, but it didn't look like there was an updated file
minor pecan
Also, the object `CC_Linear_Rail_Sliding_Door_v2.stl_4` seems to have zero volum...
Any idea what the stl_4 object is all about?
minor pecan
ah
oh
no, I mean in the .3mf file there's an object called CC_Linear_Rail_Sliding_Door_v2.stl_4, but selecting it or exporting and re-importing it makes the slicer complain that it has zero volume and it doesn't do anything with it.
round hawk
Hmmmmmmm
minor pecan
Here's a screenshot of all of the valid objects I was able to get from the .3mf file
round hawk
just incase, you wanna download the latest version? im slicing it fine on my side
round hawk
actuallllyyy let me sharee with you one more file. I should've shared this in printables
molten vigilBOT
CC_Linear_Rail_Sliding_Door_v2.gif
round hawk
this 3D preview is amazing
minor pecan
ooh, nice
round hawk
I will take awhile to work on this. Currently working on making my own riser
minor pecan
Yeah, no rush or anything, just wanted to make you aware π
(also that zero-volume "object 4" is still there π)
round hawk
Yeah, no rush or anything, just wanted to make you aware π
Thanks!! xD
round hawk
(also that zero-volume "object 4" is still there π)
aaaaa
weird im not getting that error
maybe u can send me your 3mf file
the only 4 i have is this
minor pecan
Odd. Here's the .3mf file I extracted from the zip
molten vigilBOT
thzprint_centauri_carbon_linear_rail_sliding_door_v1.gif
minor pecan
And here's that object exported to a .stl file.
molten vigilBOT
CC_Linear_Rail_Sliding_Door_v2.stl_4.gif
minor pecan
interesting
round hawk
Odd. Here's the .3mf file I extracted from the zip
yeah this one is fine for me too
minor pecan
what's that part supposed to look like?
I'm assuming it's not a 2-dimensional replica of Carmen San Diego's hat
round hawk
i think.. it's not suppose to be there at all
round hawk
what's that part supposed to look like?
HAHAHAHAHAH
round hawk
summon carmen san diego's hat
haha
well should be all good now i hope. Let me know if there
if there's more troubles. Happy to help out
minor pecan
Will do, cheers!
round hawk
making a riser with exhaust and voron cpap and some storage compartments
minor pecan
woah, that's a chonker
minor pecan
One last question, haha. Does this mod require 2x MGN12H 400mm Linear Rail? The description on Printables makes it sound like it only needs one, but the design seems to have slots for two.
round hawk
One last question, haha. Does this mod require 2x `MGN12H 400mm Linear Rail`? Th...
Oops yeah it needs 2
Honestly though it is bcause i have MGN12H lying around. If its easier and cheaper you can get MGN9 but will need to modify the STL file
There was a discussion on using 3D Printed Linear rail somewhere up there.. not sure how well that holds XD
Probably will be good to use PETG or Nylon for less friction surface
late scarab
making a riser with exhaust and voron cpap and some storage compartments
wow.. I wonder how many kilos of filament will be used for this ^^
round hawk
wow.. I wonder how many kilos of filament will be used for this ^^
Hahaha hopefully not a lot. Gonna trim lots of areas
shrunked it down and rearranged the layout a little bit
late scarab
no extra opening for the bowden tube?
late scarab
damn
round hawk
The goal would be to..
- Turn the riser into an exhaust and using bambulab carbon filters (won't require the top glass to be open but it's optional.. i can make it slide i guess)
- There'll be 24v LEDs for the riser too π
- Have compartments for nozzles and tools.. or multiboard
- CPAP design with custom toolhead model (maybe i can add a 24v led in the toolhead and have it powered from the PSU)
- I guess the bowden tube can follow the cpap
Additional stuff
- Remix the recirculation mod to cover the existing exhaust holes.. maybe use another 12032 fan?? hahaha
- Custom side panel spacers for a chamber heater i bought from taobao..
- Door seal for the existing sliding door mod
- bed plate holder
sounds like a lot
late scarab
CPAP? For tool/model cooling?
late scarab
When you already there, here is my tiny wishlist of features ^^
- Printhead lights
- Nozzle-Cam
and other stuff π
round hawk
Printhead lights will be great haha that's something i want too
Nozzle Cam.. i assume we will need this plugged to a rpi? I do like nozzle cam.. especially for my N3M haha
Sure XD once im there
maybe by then we have a stable solution for klipper cc
or just do an entire board replacement and throw in a BTT eddy like in the neptune printers.
fluid zephyr
making a riser with exhaust and voron cpap and some storage compartments
Make sure you figure out how to run your part cooling control back out the toolhead and fake a tach signal unless you can run stock klipper and output the part cooling to a pin on the mainboard. The toolhead will error out if it goest get the expected signal back from a fan.
Also it would probably be worth it to investigate the cad for the plastic insert if you are doing something this tall. If you are doing it that big I would advise just replacing the stock plastic part so it is more secure. I have the cad for that plastic part partially done.
round hawk
Make sure you figure out how to run your part cooling control back out the toolh...
Replacing the plastic part makes a lot of sense! Thanks man will take a look at that. Yeah i will need to probably run some test with the part cooling control from the toolhead
will be sad if i print all that and it doesn't work hahaha
minor pecan
Sorry if this is a dumb noob question, but how do you get the hinges to work? I just broke the pin off of the lower door hinge part trying to get it seated into the corresponding sleeve.
fluid zephyr
Sorry if this is a dumb noob question, but how do you get the hinges to work? I ...
what orientation did you print in? This is the only way the pin would be strong enough
minor pecan
That's how I printed it.
The lower one snapped off right where it connects to the plate.
I haven't tried to fit the upper one, but I can't imagine it would go much better.
Is there a trick to printing cylinders and cylindrical sleeves horizontally? Neither came out particularly round, so even if I do get them to mate it seems unlikely that they would rotate very well or at all.
Better view of the break.
Basically the whole pin snapped off when I applied the tiniest bit of pressure to rotate it in the sleeve.
fluid zephyr
Basically the whole pin snapped off when I applied the tiniest bit of pressure t...
how many walls, top bottom layers, and what was infill percentage?
Also what material
minor pecan
3/4 walls (alternate extra wall setting on), 5 top layers, 3 bottom layers, 15% infill, PETG
fluid zephyr
3/4 walls (alternate extra wall setting on), 5 top layers, 3 bottom layers, 15% ...
Oh I would want to use voron settings at least for for the third of the part that has the pin in it. that would be 4 walls, 5 top and bottom, 40% infill.
Also is that acrylic or polycarbonate? If it breaks with polycarbonat its NBD, but if it breaks and its acrylic it could actually crack the panel so you'd want higher strenghth.
minor pecan
It's the acrylic door from TH3D.
Not familiar with Voron settings (though I do plan to build one at some point), but I'll give those numbers a try.
fluid zephyr
ah ok yeah so it is unlikely that it will break if it is acrylic, but possible so I would definitley use 40% for the hinges
minor pecan
Is there anything I can do about the not-quite-roundness of the hinge pins and sleeves?
Or is that just something we have to deal with in this industry? π
fluid zephyr
Is there anything I can do about the not-quite-roundness of the hinge pins and s...
You have to either use metal parts or design around it. both are possible but I would do the first given any possible means, it will always be better to use a screw in a printed hole rather than a printed pin in a hole. I would just put an long M3 or 4 screw all the way through that hole and call it a day like on this dry box hinge
If you absolutely have to use a printed part then you can design the geometry to be more printable. For the ECAS connector in the constellation the cylinder continues up and bridges so the fit is proper. likewise the filament path bore is a 2mm circumscribed hex bore rather than circle because it never has any unprintable angles, the filament path is much cleaner.
you would need this to be in parametric software probably but on this model I would slice the part that has the 45 degree so that just continues up to the edge of the circle. on the unsupported part of the pin I would truncate the circle parellel with the bed and do a small built in support block seperated by a 0.2 mm gap since that will print very well. The suppor t block is green and the cutting planes are in red.
minor pecan
Ah, so it's not something wrong with my printer or settings. I'll tuck all of that away for when I can understand it better, and see if I can get this working as-is for now. π«‘
fluid zephyr
Ah, so it's not something wrong with my printer or settings. I'll tuck all of th...
yeah no its just a general thing you have to design around. You can use adaptive layer heights but it wont really help with the underside as much as the top.
round hawk
Better view of the break.
Hey Sorry man! I just woke up. I think you can give this printed part 100% infill.
I think thats what i did for mine as its a part of the print that will be stressed
minor pecan
Ah! I'll try that next if the 40% breaks too. π
round hawk
Ah! I'll try that next if the 40% breaks too. π
Do the same for the part thats holding the hinge too! π Hope it goes well. Mine is still holding well and im using PLA. It should work for you
π
minor pecan
Actually it seems to work fine as it is. π
Now I just need to wait for the second linear rail to come in and I can finish assembling this thing and get it mounted. π
Definitely a nice, low-stakes project to learn how to install threaded inserts.
minor pecan
next perch
oh thats nice
minor pecan
Honestly I wish the ECC was more black, would make the white pop more. π
But yeah, seems to work pretty well. It feels a little fragile, but there's no squeaking or sticking or anything.
round hawk
Oh that's great to hear!!
Im sure the fragile bit can be worked out somehow but thats awesome
minor pecan
Yeah
round hawk
Im using mine with the actual glass
minor pecan
Ah
minor pecan
I slightly chipped my glass door, so I swapped everything out for TH3D's acrylic, lol.
Before I even started this mod.
round hawk
I like the acrylic! Much clearer
round hawk
Me neither but well.. i won't be surprised if they changed it for their next few printers
minor pecan
One could only hope.
round hawk
XD
Dude~If you have time, don't mind sharing it in the Printables web. Just the pics are fine π
if not it's ok no pressure haha
minor pecan
Sure, I can do that.
round hawk
Sick~!
minor pecan
That'll be my first upload to a 3d printing model site, lol.
round hawk
It looks so cool with the white
round hawk
part of me wants to get the main body painted jet black though π€ͺ
Sounds like it'll be a nice learning journey of knowing your printer more
Mmm if i can i would wanna replace my panels with transparent polycarbonate panels.. like the Voron printers.
Seeing how clear your door is.. kinda makes me wanna just have the rest of the printer panels like that haha
minor pecan
If you ignore all of the fingerprints I haven't yet cleaned off, at least. π
round hawk
Hmmm.. i should probably do a quick model of sealing up the left side of th door
there is the gap
could probably try this but im looking to try have something where we can screw it in? Cuz there is still mounting holes that was meant for the original hinge. I might make use of that.
minor pecan
lol, nice
round hawk
With that kind of flat space, will be great to boolean a name onto it or somesort of design π
worldly pollen
https://www.printables.com/make/2843017
Polar Filament has an experimental petg?
minor pecan
Polar Filament has an experimental petg?
Yeah, it's in open beta right now:
https://polarfilament.com/products/open-beta-pre-release-experimental-white-petg-1-75mm-1kg
They basically modified their formula to make it print at higher temps, so it's closer to other brands' PETG.
next perch
https://www.printables.com/make/2843017
does it have a door holder or anything
minor pecan
does it have a door holder or anything
I just have the stock handle on it.
minor pecan
oh, no
next perch
oh
minor pecan
I use a vented riser, so the top panel always stays on
next perch
i guess i can put it on the side
i do too but i like the feeling of putting it on the side
minor pecan
ah
minor pecan
Just be aware, the way the sliding door mounts doesn't really leave any options for mounting other stuff on that side.
It uses all three screws along the top and along the bottom.
round hawk
Time to try it
round hawk
i guess i can put it on the side
Mmm i need to dedicate a day for this haha. It only exist in my older versions
round hawk
Aight it covers
Will share the blank version soon.
Probably works better with the clear door panel
minor pecan
https://www.printables.com/model/1410505-centauri-carbon-door-gap-cover-for-thzp...
It relies on structural rigidity to hold it in place, not sure if dovetailing will work for this piece. π€
round hawk
It has little pins at the top and bottom that just goes in the screw hole.
minor pecan
Yeah, I'd just be worried about the dovetail joint buckling and making those pins pop out.
I dunno, it could work, I haven't tested it yet.
round hawk
Hmmm XD only way to find out
molten vigilBOT
ThzPrint_Side_Gap_Cover_for_LinearRail_Sliding_Door_v1_Blank_dovetail.gif
molten vigilBOT
ThzPrint_Side_Gap_Cover_for_LinearRail_Sliding_Door_v1_Blank_dovetail.gif
round hawk
better
next perch
oh thats nice
split dagger
magnetic strip on it would be cool
round hawk
Magnetic strip to hold it?
split dagger
also will probs stop any rattling
round hawk
I did a print last night. So far it holds itself well and i was printing at 20000 acceleration i think..
yeap
I can take a look at the magnetic strip idea. I do have some strips but im not sure where it should be placed haha
split dagger
for a first test try mirror the other side where the handle magnet is
then after do one top and bottom
so its triangular
round hawk
Oooooohhhhh
wait you meant the magnet is for the door??
my bad i was thinking the magnet was for attaching the cover
I think that is very doable yeah!
I think this idea works great for one of the mods with the 270 hinge on the right instead of the left
I can take a look at this during the weekend π
split dagger
A low profile gap cover the same width as the one on the right would be cool
round hawk
A low profile gap cover the same width as the one on the right would be cool
haha sure xD i can modify that! Thanks for the measurement
messed up my nozzle.. made a huge blob around it and just replaced with another aliexpress nozzle.. the heatsink feels different and kinda lighter compared to the original
printing well tho haha
split dagger
currently my .2 and .4 nozzles goop that holds the ceramic heater element in place has turned to dust and fall off with out the sock on
π
round hawk
man.. kinda makes me wanna do the hotend upgrade more but.. i bought a few bunch of this nozzles.. holding me back from upgrading
split dagger
haha sure xD i can modify that! Thanks for the measurement
any progress on the modified gap file
round hawk
any progress on the modified gap file
not yet π taking my time
split dagger
ah kay
round hawk
@split dagger
split dagger
ooooohh myyy
round hawk
@split dagger https://www.printables.com/model/1416100-centauri-carbon-left-gap-cover-with-optional-magne
Untested but feel free to give this a try if you want xD
split dagger
i will print it when i get the hardware required for a 270 door or the sliding one
round hawk
I think i might very likely jump off the CC ship while i still can to a Prusa ship π Been doing upgrades to printers since the ender 3 but this CC is getting more and more questionable xD and i wanna stick to something more long term and print more of the other stuff than printer stuff. Just joined with a friend of mine and going with the Core One and hopefully get that tool changer they have in the future. Once i got my Core one up and running, gonna sell my CC away :l
gonna stop with the riser project and gonna work on the sliding door more now π
minor pecan
One thing I've noticed is that when I have the door open for a brief period, occasionally I bump into it, and the hinge sleeve has developed a crack. Doesn't seem to harm functionality so far, but it's there.
round hawk
do you have a picture of the crack?
minor pecan
1 sec
minor pecan
good, kinda hard to get a good angle on that, lol
white plastic isn't good for photos π
round hawk
XD
i think if it opens freely it should prevent that crack from happening. Aight thanks for the feedback!
I hope to get this figured out before i get my prusa core one kit
minor pecan
I've also been puzzling out if there's a way to have a bit that covers and "captures" the door when it's slid back.
Haven't had much success though.
minor pecan
yeah
round hawk
i noticed that too
aight keep throwing me this feedback xD will work on it once im free after work
minor pecan
lol, roger that
round hawk
i need to think of some cool design for it too
right now is just blocky
HAHAHAHA
or maybe a simple rounded edges might just help
round hawk
Yeah
minor pecan
Once I get sorted out for ASA-CF printing, I'll probably try printing it again in that; by that point you'll probably have the design quite polished. π
round hawk
ASA-CF sounds pretty lit
looking forward to that
I'll probably still print mine with Basic PLA XD
should be fine as long the printer doesn't get to more the 60Β°c
outside
minor pecan
Yeah, definitely. I just like consistency, lol
So if I reprint all of the in-chamber mods using ASA-CF... π
worldly pollen
I've also been puzzling out if there's a way to have a bit that covers and "capt...
I was thinking maybe magnets would help with that
round hawk
I was thinking maybe magnets would help with that
I like this
the more i think about it
aaaa BUT i just remember it doesnt slide in fully
fluid zephyr
Magnets might be the best choice since there could be some sag in the mounts and the coupling range for magnets isn't very long unless you you make them very large. I just kinda wonder if it will be fiddly.
Here is an easier approach, just use the approach that was used for the internal burge bin that slides, out put a small notch that just allows a bit of mechanical feed back and holding power. I'm thinking a printed arm on one side of each carraige that kind of springs out a bit. At the end of the travel range there is a slight widening of the surface it touches.
that way you can also easily calibrate stiffness of the connection and how long you make the channel if there does need to be a longer distance because of slotp
rare robin
AWESOME!
mortal grail
why not rods + linear bearings? cheaper, easier to maintain...
because with how much this is levered out you want to overconstrain it, and linear rods+bearings just won't do it. Besides proper square rails cost almost nothing nowadays anyways.
late scarab
because with how much this is levered out you want to overconstrain it, and line...
damn... how time flies.. I asked that over 3 months ago... damn
mortal grail
harder to mount, less constrained. with rods you can only secure them at the end...
there are side mounted rods and the appropriate bearings for them, but uses a lot of space for what it is.
late scarab
Ich weiΓ π
mortal grail
did you align the rails? an easy method would be to secure on rail, assemble with screw loose on the other rail and tighten them as you run the carriage next to the screws.
mortal grail
damn... how time flies.. I asked that over 3 months ago... damn
just found the thread, looks interesting
must be some extreme form of masochism to use blender for this though, respect