Iv'e just finshed assembling to the point of flashing the board. I'm very comfortable printing, assembling and wiring, its the flashing and that side that gets me a little nervous. I'm very capable, but any direction or help would be amazing. Am I correct in saying step 1 would be to USB connect to the printer? OR should I be making sure my tool head and all peripherals are what they need to be beofre proceeding (tool head cutter) etc etc. Like I said, any help at all is incredibly appreciated. I have 4 more of these kits to build.
#BoxTurtle Built - A little nervous on flash, next steps. Any help would be amazing.
outer sparrow
charred furnace
hi
long bear
Hi
charred furnace
will you be connecting via USB or canbus in the final state?
outer sparrow
Hello @charred furnace ! I saw you in the live stream the other day.
I will be connecting via usb
charred furnace
LDO kits?
charred furnace
the board is likely already pre-flashed with klipper for USB mode, then
outer sparrow
Oh really? So just plug and play (kinda)
charred furnace
plug it into a pi - see if you see a /dev/serial/by-id/usb_Klipper...somethingosmething stm32h723 sometingsomething device
if you do, then it's got klipper on it already
outer sparrow
Ok, so plug into printer PI .... ssh in and see if it has Klipper?
hello! @long bear
I apologize in advance lol, I'm going to be asking a lot of questions here. I just want to make sure I get the first one done correctly to save me headache down the road with the other kits.
charred furnace
it's no worry
do you have a power cable yet for it with the molex connector?
you will need that, even if data goes over USB.
outer sparrow
I do not
long bear
That is the point of this thread, to keep all you questions in one please 😃
charred furnace
so, that's probably step 1 honestly
because you're not going to get very far at all without 24v and gnd to the afc-lite.
outer sparrow
ok, do I make that, or purchase it?
charred furnace
make it, because we dont' know what the connectors or length is for your printer
outer sparrow
I'm planning on mounting to the top
Ok, make it. Do I find the instructions on the GitHUb?
charred furnace
the pinout for the connector is on the github
but connecting it to your printer, is going to be unique. if you can let us know what you have, we can maybe suggestion some options (maybe a shot of the electronics bay wiring on your printer)
you don't need to populate the pins for CAN-H and CAN-L since you wont' be using canbus.
charred furnace
ok, so a basic LDO kit.
charred furnace
what i would probably do, is connect it directly to the power supply with spade forks for 24v/gnd - stack one fork on another for one of hte 24v terminals.
That, or you could cut the cable, and split in a 3 port wago into the line, so that it goes PSU -> wago -> (octopus, afc-lite)
the wires should be 20awg stranded wire
outer sparrow
do I add a wago for clean install, or stack the forks? What would you prefer @shell fern ?
shell fern
The Molex cable should have been included by LDO
Keep in mind that the some of those terminal blocks and the SSR are all wired for 110VAC, so don't tap in there assuming it's 24V like many printers are.
shell fern
LOL, sorry I was panicking that you'd already serviced printers are all 24V.
There's no molex connector included at all? That doesn't sound LDO-ish, but you could be right.
charred furnace
There's no molex connector included at all? That doesn't sound LDO-ish, but you ...
the molex connector and pins are included
but no cable
outer sparrow
Oh, this lol
shell fern
Go ahead and add WAGOs at your preference @outer sparrow
I have WAGOs here if you don't
outer sparrow
I think a wago would be clean and add a spot if we expand in the future.
I don't have them, no. I can order, or you can drop when youre around next. I'm at that stage now lol so I'm at a stop.
shell fern
OK, it's not too bad of a mess under there! Whew! Showing your cable management is like showing your underwear drawer- people will judge you no matter what's in there.
outer sparrow
LOL
@charred furnace I have a question about the tool head. I believe a cutter is required there? Can you give me a bit more info about that? Or point me to somewhere I can read about whats needed.
shell fern
They're not too pricey. I'll get you back if you want to source them.
outer sparrow
I think we should be fine with whats sent already. I'll order some 3 port now.
charred furnace
<@397432363593891872> I have a question about the tool head. I believe a cutter...
outer sparrow
ok, so I see a filamatrix bag in the kit.
does that mean I'm good? I just need to print and install?
charred furnace
pretty much yes
outer sparrow
badass
charred furnace
if you have questions ,just let us know
long bear
And that is in the manual online as well
charred furnace
outer sparrow
I really appreciate your help @charred furnace
charred furnace
this has a printed parts wizard
outer sparrow
thanks
shell fern
<@397432363593891872> I have a question about the tool head. I believe a cutter...
I guess we'll need to reprint some stealthburner parts in ABS/ASA, so if you send me the STLs I'll do them here for you in the colours you request.
outer sparrow
ok awesome.... were rockin and rolling
Oh crap, I'll need some wire for the molex too. 20awg
shell fern
So... the Stealthburner on Decker has a metal Voron Tap, as well as Nitehawk and Revo Voron hotend.
shell fern
Oh crap, I'll need some wire for the molex too. 20awg
Again, I'll get you back. Get enough for all 5 Box Turtles.
outer sparrow
not a worry man, were on the same page.
@charred furnace do you have a suggestions for wires? or a harness?
shell fern
Holy crap, it's basically a complete reprint of the Stealthburner
outer sparrow
Fantastic lol
orange and black please haha
actually
white/grey/black
thats the first one
charred furnace
Holy crap, it's basically a complete reprint of the Stealthburner
not a COMPLETE reprint...
but, it's what is needed 🤷♂️
shell fern
@outer sparrow won't you be installing in Decker first?
charred furnace
<@397432363593891872> do you have a suggestions for wires? or a harness?
this is good stuff
this is also good, but it's sold out https://store.isiks.tech/products/xt302-2-can-cable-3-meters
shell fern
We can always swap the Box Turtles around later so they match their final partner.
outer sparrow
<@372508878757429249> won't you be installing in Decker first?
I will, yeah but this entire BT is white/grey/black
ok fair
so orange/black please
lol
shell fern
Which printer is to be paired with the current BT?
shell fern
so orange/black please
Yep!
shell fern
Sounds good
The leftmost is "Triumph" and is monochrome so that's perfect. Ivy on the far right has some green going on, so it would be nice to get some green in her BT.
outer sparrow
ok great, that works.
shell fern
Do I need the short arm or the regular arm for the cutter I wonder?
outer sparrow
@charred furnace any insight on the short or long arm?
charred furnace
I use the long arm, more leverage for the cut
outer sparrow
great. thank you
shell fern
I should probably already know this, but what is source of the actuation force on the cutter?
shell fern
OH! how freaking clever is that?!?
charred furnace
can't take credit for the original idea 🙂
we just cleaned up the repo and made it easier to figure out what to print, along with a few other quality of life modifications.
shell fern
Love the STL selector page. Holy crap the LDO guys and pretty much everyone else could learn a lot from that.
outer sparrow
It really is very well done
shell fern
The sensorless homing does not have submillimetre precision, so I hope it consistently finds that pin
charred furnace
I (and LDO) can't take credit for that STL wizard, that's the work of another voron contributor
https://home.wizards-enclave.net/
they have a bunch of configurators though
charred furnace
The sensorless homing does not have submillimetre precision, so I hope it consis...
let us know ... worst case you could add endstops back in the mix
shell fern
Wired endstop cables constantly breaking- those cables were the weakest part of the design IMO. After about 4 replacements in 3 months I was like- that's it, I'm going sensorless
outer sparrow
Theres gotta be a solution for that (were just assuming itll be an issue) ... and if there isnt, we will create one.
charred furnace
if you are using cable chains, you can do separate x and y endstop sthat do not go through the cable chains
but - I think sensorless will likely be fine/accurate enough, provided you have it tuned well
shell fern
We will certainly share anything we learn.
outer sparrow
charred furnace
that'd also be fine
do you have fork connectors?
and crimpers for them?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B1753K2
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069TRKJ0?
and crimpers for Molex?
outer sparrow
I don’t. Perfect, thanks
outer sparrow
Ok awesome
charred furnace
these are useful tools that will serve you well beyond boxturtle, getting these + crimps/connectors was one of best purchases I made, as it lets me fix problems with my printers 🙂
outer sparrow
I have 5 kits to build so I appreciate the tips
long bear
Dang 5 box turtles, sounds like fun
charred furnace
who do you think you are, @magic basalt
outer sparrow
lol 😂
outer sparrow
Dang 5 box turtles, sounds like fun
It will be when theyre all built and dialed lol
outer sparrow
@charred furnace This looks like it could be perfect for the 24V. I’ll cut and put in 2, 3 port wagos and mount them to the extrusion. Just thought I’d touch base.
outer sparrow
outer sparrow
Got to this point and restarted klipper and got errors starting with LED. Is this simply because nothing is plugged in yet? @charred furnace
charred furnace
yes, the errors are dumb. it's what happens when there's no 24v power/steppers/etc on the board
outer sparrow
I did enter serial in btw
Ok perfect… building filamatrix today .. had to wait on connectors not included in rev a … but should be almost ready to rock
Appreciate the help so far @charred furnace
charred furnace
no problem
outer sparrow
@charred furnace I think this is the best way to pull filamatrix through the existing cable chain. I have a nice fishwife from my daily job….. or should I rip it all apart?
outer sparrow
Shit
charred furnace
do you not have a tool head board?
outer sparrow
Pi in tool head?
charred furnace
no - like a break out board
or do all your wires run back to your electronics bay through chain
outer sparrow
No breakout board unless installed under which @shell fern would know
Unless you see here
Sorry @charred furnace I wish I had more info
Any help I appreciate
long bear
what does your toolhead board look like, from the cable in your cable chains it looks like you might be running a nitehawk sb or something similiar
charred furnace
yes - in which case you just need to run wires to pins on that board. probably the XY end stop port
long bear
and this right here means you are running a toolhead board
outer sparrow
Ok So... the Stealthburner on Decker has a metal Voron Tap, as well as Nitehawk and Revo Voron hotend.
Updated info @long bear
and @charred furnace
Still take a photo of the board or?
long bear
I think you have a nitehawk sb, but you should verify. If you do these ports may be free to use depending on what you already have connected
outer sparrow
If that’s the case, I don’t have to run wires to the TB?
long bear
correct
outer sparrow
Ho Lee shit
That’s the way everyone should do it, no?
Just looking at that schematic .. would I have to solder all that? Or there connectors? @long bear
long bear
the pins in the lower left you would have to solder
connection would be between one of the gpios and gnd
outer sparrow
Sensorless so those should be free and I can connector to them
Wait… can I wire I connector in there? @charred furnace
At the gnd x y 5v ? Or @long bear
long bear
dont use the 5v, needs to be between gnd and x or y gpio
outer sparrow
Either or? X or y
@charred furnace Can we get a verify? lol before I blast my board
I’m all good with the rest of it. Just this portion makes me nervous for some reason lol. I’m a mechanic that builds engines by hand with fluid dynamics and all lol. But this makes me nervous for whatever reason. Haha
Do I have to rip this whole thing apart?
charred furnace
you’ll need to rebuild the toolhead with the new parts yes
steve does the full filamatrix build here. he wires it to the probe port but you can use XY endstop on the X and GND pins
shell fern
Hopefully all the SB upgrades are compatible.
charred furnace
they should be
stock ldo kits from rev c and onwards are pretty easy
it’s the rev A ones Which are more difficult
outer sparrow
it’s the rev A ones Which are more difficult
We have rev a
outer sparrow
ahhhh … that puts us steps ahead
charred furnace
Rev A LDO kits
from like 2023 and prior
void lavaBOT
freyfreak.: Sorry, I thought you were referring to rev A I can't read not Rev A Voron build.
freyfreak.: Rev a I can't read *
outer sparrow
I broke the thread lol…. What did I do?
charred furnace
it's proper name is boxturtle 😉
outer sparrow
Lmfao, that’s awesome. My apologies lol. @charred furnace
outer sparrow
Without digging deep myself, do you mind if I ask what your role in all this is @charred furnace? You’re extremely helpful and willing to share the knowledge. It’s very neat within a project like this.
outer sparrow
*cringe as I watch myself here* but I go over the 'origin story' here
Awesome, thanks for that. That’s neat you got hooked like that and now you’re a main contributor.
charred furnace
also, @past harbor and Steve both told me I wasn't allowed to quit. 🫠
outer sparrow
Haha maybe after I get a couple of these kits under my belt I’ll be able to help a few people out myself. I do know I’m spreading the word
Ok, back to the help thread.
past harbor
I make things but don’t like people
Queue thunderkeys
🙃
outer sparrow
I make things but don’t like people
Queue thunderkeys
🙃
Much appreciated… I’m not much a fan of them either. @charred furnace Has been a huge help.
The first thing I notice about that video is Filametrix vs Filamatrix.
I have the rev a filametrix kit @charred furnace
charred furnace
the bom is the same
so you'll have everything (and more) to build it, aside from possibly heatsets.
outer sparrow
Ok awesome. I have a lot of the heatsets.
outer sparrow
@charred furnace Hey there man! I feel like I'm SO close but might be dealing with something silly. I have a happy turtle in console and just completed the filametrix... I went with single sensor and wired to the gnd and gpio13 as suggested. I'm trying to test that switch in the console and no matter what I can't get a response to show up. Should I start taking this thing back apart or? I could SWEAR i hear the switch engaging like all the other ones, but I feel like I'm going nuts now lol.
charred furnace
do you have a multimeter?
outer sparrow
I do yep, I was thinking that... resistence across the 2 pins and insert filament ?
charred furnace
put it in continuity/beep mode and see if the beep goes away when you insert filament (assuming you wired the switch normally closed/NC)
(outer two pins)
outer sparrow
outer 2 pins yeah.
outer sparrow
No beep at all @charred furnace ... I checked against the spare switch to ensure my meter was working and checked resistance fine on that one. Faulty switch?
outer sparrow
outer sparrow
haha yep, already there. It's weird... I take the switch out... it tests fine... its like its being closed in the cavity at all times but im sure im installing it the correct way and the ballbearing seems to move fine
user error, something silly.... but I'm not sure what.
I feel SO close to printing LOL
long bear
You using the right size ball bearing? 5.5mm I think that's what it's supposed to be
outer sparrow
lemme double check the manual.
maybe I put the 5.5mm in there, ohhhhhhhh
yeah! that FilamAtrix manual says 5.5mm
outer sparrow
so its not the bearing ... its being engaged inside the cavity. Frig
The cavity looks fine to me though… lol 😂 this is funny for something so small throughout the whole build
charred furnace
it is 5.5mm for this
outer sparrow
The inside of the cavity is fairly perfectly printed it looks… this is with no ball bearing
I feel like it’s that ledge but I also feel pretty stupid right now LOL. 😂..
outer sparrow
The first time yep, but before I get to the point of screwing it in you can see/hear it’s closing within the cavity
Without a ball bearing or filament in the path.
That’s ball bearing and filament. The switch is hitting that ledge and closing as it’s inserted into the cavity. Any further engagement does nothing cause it’s already closed. Hence my issues in the klipper…
charred furnace
what ledge?
the filament is supposed to push the ball up to trigger the switch
outer sparrow
yep, I know. the trigger mechanism of the switch hits the ledge you can see (easier in the photo without the bearing) when inserted into the cavity and closes the switch.
outer sparrow
no. in the cavity in front of the bearing hole
in that zoom you can see it very clear.
thats where the switch activation mechanism rests - closing the switch .... I'm thinking it should rest (end) over the hole.
wait a second....... in that schematic you sent the switch has no lever
outer sparrow
LOOOOLLLL
charred furnace
they still ship the kits with the levers fvor filamatrix though
outer sparrow
this whole time youre probably like ..... "this guy is something else"
hahaha thats some funny stuff
thank you sir.
outer sparrow
Awesome, thats where I missed it!
outer sparrow
@charred furnace should I run a bowden calibration to try and force seeing that sensor? I can't get it to show up any normal way or in gui. (lanes calibrations all green - happy turtle)
outer sparrow
yup
outer sparrow
[AFC_extruder extruder]
pin_tool_start: ^!nhk:gpio13
#pin_tool_end: None
long bear
If you enable enable_sensors_in_gui in AFC.cfg file it will show up in your web gui
long bear
It's there Tool Start
outer sparrow
and easiest way see if the switch itself is functioning? Or just being there means its ok
Lots of learning lol, I appreciate it as always.
long bear
and easiest way see if the switch itself is functioning? Or just being there me...
manually put filament into the hole and see if it triggers
long bear
dumb question but you sure its the right gpio in your config file?
outer sparrow
the afchardware.cfg ... afc.cfg or printer.cfg?
long bear
in AFC_hardware.cfg for pin_tool_start
outer sparrow
[AFC_extruder extruder]
pin_tool_start: ^!nhk:gpio13
#pin_tool_end: None
Xy end - right side
long bear
Did you connect one of the wires to GND?
outer sparrow
yup. I soldered to the switch and pinned to a connector
2 outside on the switch and gnd & gpio13
long bear
what happens if you remove !
long bear
Nice!!
long bear
! inverts the signal and ^ is a pullup, so GND cannot overcome the inverted signal I think.
outer sparrow
geez, thats interesting. Much appreciated. That brings me one step closer to printing! I really dont think im far now.
long bear
I dont even know if that makes sense though lol
shell fern
This is a super helpful group
outer sparrow
It sure is. Thats awesome. Have a good one @long bear
long bear
It sure is. Thats awesome. Have a good one <@178887472590225408>
Yup we try our best when we have time
long bear
geez, thats interesting. Much appreciated. That brings me one step closer to p...
Sound like install software, setup number and calibrate. Almost there
outer sparrow
Alrighty, a new one lol... Im doing tool changes and for the first one it etruded the poop no problem. Now its doing them successfully as I watch but no extrusion OR pooping?
10:33 PM
lane2 is now loaded in toolhead t:33.844
10:32 PM
AFC_Poop: Starting poop
10:32 PM
Loading lane2
10:32 PM
Lane lane1 unload done t:31.161
10:32 PM
AFC_Park: Park Toolhead
10:32 PM
pressure_advance: 0.025000
pressure_advance_smooth_time: 0.025000
10:32 PM
pressure_advance: 0.000000
pressure_advance_smooth_time: 0.025000
10:32 PM
AFC_Cut: Cut Filament
10:32 PM
Rotation distance reset : 4.6500
10:32 PM
Unloading lane1
10:32 PM
Tool Change - lane1 -> lane2
10:32 PM
t1
10:30 PM
_CLIENT_LINEAR_MOVE E=50 F=600
10:28 PM
lane1 is now loaded in toolhead t:29.438
10:27 PM
AFC_Poop: Starting poop
10:27 PM
Loading lane1
10:27 PM
Lane lane2 unload done t:31.176
10:27 PM
AFC_Park: Park Toolhead
10:27 PM
pressure_advance: 0.025000
pressure_advance_smooth_time: 0.025000
10:27 PM
pressure_advance: 0.000000
pressure_advance_smooth_time: 0.025000
10:27 PM
AFC_Cut: Cut Filament
10:27 PM
Rotation distance reset : 4.6500
10:27 PM
Unloading lane2
10:27 PM
Tool Change - lane2 -> lane1
10:27 PM
T0
10:26 PM
lane2 is now loaded in toolhead t:29.577
10:26 PM
AFC_Poop: Starting poop
10:25 PM
Loading lane2
10:25 PM
Tool Change - None -> lane2
10:25 PM
t1
I'm SOOOOOOOOOO close hahaha
long bear
you may need to increase your tool_stn value then
charred furnace
yes -- sounds liike it's not priming the nozzle enough before hte purge starts.
outer sparrow
ok awesome, I'll have a look. any suggested increment levels?
long bear
ok awesome, I'll have a look. any suggested increment levels?
like does it not poop at all sometimes?
charred furnace
what is your tool_stn currently?
outer sparrow
its not poop at all right now but the changes are going smoothly lol
ool_stn: 35 # Distance in mm from the toolhead sensor to the tip of the nozzle in mm, if tool_end is defined then distance is from this sensor
tool_stn_unload: 52 # Distance to move in mm while unloading toolhead
tool_sensor_after_extruder: 0 # Extra distance to move in mm once pre/post sensors are clear. Useful for when only using post sensor, so this distance can be the amout to move to clear extruder gears
tool_unload_speed: 25 # Unload speed in mm/s when unloading toolhead. Default is 25mm/s.
tool_load_speed: 25 # Load speed in mm/s when unloading toolhead. Default is 25mm/s.
outer sparrow
Alright, so I'll look into lane 3 physically tomorrow. Appreciate that @charred furnace. I'm still going to try and get the other 3 going for tonight. I'm still not getting any poop on change ... tool_stn @ 60
charred furnace
can try bumping higher, based on your retractand pushback
bump it until you get filament oozing out after the load completes but before it goes to do the purge .. can always shrink
outer sparrow
up to 80 and still nothing .. is there another way I should check this like manually extruding ? @charred furnace ?
charred furnace
post your configs please (AFC/*) as well as your AFC.log file
long bear
Machine then click on the drop down and choose logs
outer sparrow
charred furnace
so you're just poopin' in the wind? 🙂
outer sparrow
LOL what?
outer sparrow
I turned those off in plans to use purge in prints. I have no space for kick or poop in this printer
outer sparrow
it stays there or I pull it off for now during testing ..... are you saying .... what i did, turned it off? Sorry, i can be dim at times LOOOL
charred furnace
I'm saying - if your plan is to pruge to a prime tower/object
turn off the poop function entirely
poop: False # Disable Poop.
in AFC/AFC.cfg
outer sparrow
haha I just left it on to test the lane swaps lol
outer sparrow
```
poop: False # Disable Poop.
```
in AFC/AFC.cfg
perfect, ill do that after testing out. thanks
charred furnace
try and manually extrude 50-100mm - does it work
charred furnace
make sure your stealthburner latch is shut ...
outer sparrow
open and closed it ...... still nothing.
charred furnace
it should be extrudingw hen you tell it to extrude
if it is not - that is probably not a boxturtle thing...
doulbe check everything with CW2 - gear meshing, grub screws, no cracked parts, tension set appropriately, etc
you can verify all of this by unloading from the toolhead ... then disabling AFC by commenting out [include AFC/*.cfg] in printer.cfg ... and testing your extrusion stuff that way
outer sparrow
ok sounds good. much appreciated
outer sparrow
So, it’s ended up being the “connection” between the top and bottom. Where the cut happens. The 2 holes weren’t lined up as well as they should be and it was causing the filament changes to get caught there. Hence the no dribbles or poop or anything from the extruded.
I’ve got them lined up to the point of 85% lane swap success. It seems to be majority lane 4 for me lol.
outer sparrow
Also, where can I find the file for press on wheels? I’ve been looking but I cannot find them.
outer sparrow
Thank you sir!
outer sparrow
Happy Easter everyone! Hope you're having a good day! OK... So I rebuilt lanes 3 and 4 with better wheels - no more slipping on the shaft. NOW... the problem I'm getting is upon loading a filament its loading JUST enough to trigger the hub switch and staying there.... Showing a green LED .... But preventing me from running a "T1" command for example ... and I also cannot re run the AFC_CALIBRATION because I'm stuck in this loop on all lanes.... - I tried to comment in this line I saw not doing anything in Turtle_1.cfg. (hub_clear_move_dis: 25 # Distance after hub switch becomes fast to retract to insure hub is clear) But it dint actually enable a retract lol - so i just commented it back out.
charred furnace
disable load to hub?
or use LANE_MOVE to move it back some so you can do calibration.
or manually reduce lengths hy maybe 10mm in turtle 1 cfg
long bear
the hub_clear_move_dis only applies when unloading a lane
outer sparrow
Ahhh… hmmm 🤔
long bear
reducing your dist_hub like thunder suggested will solve your problem when loading spools in
outer sparrow
Alrighty...... lol, a bit of a weird one here..... I'm so damn close its wild...I followed the initial start guide for setting up Orca. What would cause the print movements to go all wacky after the tool change? the print movements are normal and smooth before the tool change, then after, theyre SO FAST and SO JERKY.... at first it was actually looking like little frog jumps ... I disabled the zhop on retraction in Orca - so it doesnt do little hops to every next print position but those movements are insanely fast and jerky now. Not nice. I've been looking at my configs and everything but I'm stumped.
outer sparrow
as far as velocity or? What information can I give you?
max_velocity: 500.000000
max_accel: 10000.000000
minimum_cruise_ratio: 0.500000
square_corner_velocity: 12.000000
thats after running SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT ....but I'm not sure if thats what you're asking.
outer sparrow
btw ... I apologize ahead of time .... I can build anything lol, that part is my strength. Still doing my best to learn quickly on the config side of things.
charred furnace
what’s it showing as the accelerations and velocities in mainsail or fluidd before and after the tool change
outer sparrow
ok im starting a test print ... i'll run that command before and after ... correct?
charred furnace
you don’t have to run any command
you just have to use your eyeballs
there’s a machine panel in mainsail at least which reports the current values
outer sparrow
lmfao I just saw that ... sorry to onfig deep after last night LOL
before - velocity: 500 accel: 500 squ corner:9 min cruise: 50
tool - velocity: 500 accel: 4000 squ corner: 12 cruise: 50
after " "
so its not resetting the speed correctly after tool change
interesting.
outer sparrow
haha yeah, we have it set pretty conservatively
i'll get one shortly after i get this sorted out
outer sparrow
do you think my problem lies in Cut.cfg? @charred furnace
or the point at which the saved accel is happening?
charred furnace
I don't know. post your configs and gcode you are using.
outer sparrow
outer sparrow