Boothy`s Retro Turtle

[orchid robin]

Just completed the internal wiring...phew! I will tidy further after testing. Get some Bowden tubes installed and switch to the Filametrix I think

[orchid robin]

Knocked up some stand offs in preparation for testing....still seems a long way off!

On my third Filametrix iteration.

1. I revised to suit 5mm bearings.
2. Ditched the lower sensor as it just seemed to cause more binding issues than it was worth.
3. Replaced the drilled out M3 heat set & M3 nut with drilled out M2 Heat sets to see if I can improve the filament feed below the cutter.
4. Some jiggling with the cutter to stop it binding at the drop of a hat!
   WIP, still printing this so yet to be tested.

[lapis rose]

where did you get the cutter for the stealth burner

[orchid robin]

I had an old Aldi scalpel set which had two type 4 cutters in the set, being Aldi cheap & not very sharp but sufficient for testing. I have currently ordered from Aliexpress.

The filament insertion is now much more fluent with all internal diameters being consistent. Tip, I found inserting a piece of filament along the full length of the SB helped keep the filament ports aligned when assembling the SB.

[lapis rose]

but where did you find the cutter add on

i got an sb but it doesnt have a cutter

[orchid robin]

Sorry, thought you were talking about the blade. It is part of the Filametrix mod for the SB, here on the Git: https://github.com/sorted01/Filametrix

[ancient pebble]

@orchid robin I assume you went with the drilled out inserts because a PTFE tube would deform over time?

[lapis rose]

thanks boothy

[orchid robin]

That is the reason, yes, the Filamatrix BOM uses a M3 insert above the blade & a M3 nut below which are drilled out to 2.5mm. If you drill to 2.5mm it still leaves thread evident. I drilled to 3mm with both to clear the thread. This leaves a step between the M3 drilled nut ID and the bowden tube ID below it which acts as a stop making insertion much harder. Even if I had left it with the 2.5mm hole having the filament running through a threaded part is equally undesirable. Hence I went with the M2 inserts to make the ID consistent. Very fiddly but so much better IMHO.

[ancient pebble]

thanks for the insight! I'm currently working on a filament cutter for an orbiter V2 and was fiddling around with that. But your solution seems very promising.

[orchid robin]

You may also want to look at the remix with the inbuilt filament sensor, this one and the original. I have since removed the lower sensor, I am not sure if BT supports it and I found that it was another thing just near the allignment of the filament path to distort things. Although I changed to 5mm bearings and tested methodically with parts, in reality the holistic arrangement with two sensors just made things a little more tighter. May go back to this in the future if I ever get the BT to work!
https://www.printables.com/model/872024-filametrix-body-cw2-for-sb2209sb2240-with-dual-fil

[ancient pebble]

Mine's just a small cutter which is mounted underneath the orbiter and has the same footprint. For a toolhead sensor I'm using the orbiter smart sensor

[orchid robin]

Good thinking with the Orbiter sensor. In some ways an inline one does have a lot of merit regards serviceability. I may change all after some BT printing time under my belt, just need to get to that place first!

[ancient pebble]

I had the snappy before but never got the Tip forming working enough. The tip got stuck in the Filatector sensor on every swap

[orchid robin]

You obviously have much more experience than this newbie!

[orchid robin]

Could you not use snappy and the sensor?

[ancient pebble]

I could, but I was also not a friend of the routine. The BT retracted the filament during a cutting move which led to the filament being sheared off sometimes by the BT extruder gears. And I also would need to work on Tip forming, which isn't necessary at all with a toolhead cutter

[orchid robin]

Thanks for the heads up, quite dreading the testing of this thing, fully enjoyed the mechanical challenge, patience with testing not one of my most established skillsets!

[orchid robin]

I am feeding the BT from the side of the enclosure so decided to use one of the side rear skirts to present the connectivity. Much easier from the side than the back IMO. I already had some 4mm Banana Plugs in stock so decided to use them up. It should allow more flexibility with the Turtle Neck too. It does also mean I can crimp the 24 volt feed with crimp ring connectors which will be more robust. The keystone jack works perfectly, 30th time lucky 🙂

[orchid robin]

I cannot believe with all the USB cables I have in stock I need to buy yet another one! I will be using the serial connection and due to the position of the USB C output a straight connector will be below the line of the feet when inserted. I have therefore just ordered a right angled USB C cable which will still protrude the line of a base panel but will not bottom on the bench surface. Not a problem if on risers above the printer but not the best look IMHO.

[lapis rose]

you could have just bought a right angle adaptor and used one of those cables

this is what im using

[orchid robin]

Thanks, I will on the next one

[lapis rose]

i have one of these on my u2c so the cable passes over the top of the board as it was hitting against the motor making it hard to plug in

[orchid robin]

I will order one anyway, useful, thanks

[lapis rose]

welcome cheaper than another cable too lol

[orchid robin]

Have you a base panel on your BT?

[lapis rose]

no not yet as i cannot print any stuff until my soddin sensor arrives

im sat looking at a 3/4 finished project with no way to finish

[orchid robin]

Sorry to hear that

[lapis rose]

cant find my voron revo or id re install that

sensors in the post but update from china hasnt moved since 9th

[orchid robin]

Not sure if the banana jacks are rated for 24 volts but ok just for testing.

[orchid robin]

Nearly ready for some Blue Smoke!
Bit of an issue with the cable chain fowling the Filametrix stop. I need to research this more.

[orchid robin]

With not having much room at the front of my printer and thinking my previous purge tray was not man enough for the job. I have cut through the deck panel, created a shute and a purge drawer below the door line. This as a larger capacity and can be serviced when the printer is fully enclosed and the door shut. Untested at the the time of uploading.

[orchid robin]

Added a hinged door to to pull out Poop Tray for larger model overspill.

[cinder prawn]

do you have a huge heat loss with that mod or what ?

[subtle bay]

id be interested in that as well

[orchid robin]

Apologies for such a late response missed this comment, I have since made a full hinged door & designed a capping detail for when using high temp filament. I agree not perfect but I do not seem to have any major issues so far.

Just added a 3D Printed Top Hat\Lid to this build.

[orchid robin]

Conscious of the potential heat loss I revised my Purge & Play set with an extended shallow tray, no air gaps now, much tidier & neater I think anyway. I really do not do much multi colour printing & primarily will use the BTs for filament management so this solution will probably be more than adequate for most scenarios.