i knw i know its very difficult to see with white filament but i usually work with white filament only i tried my best to take pictures as best i can
#Orca Slicer is not giving me clean prints need help troubleshooting
1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
i am sharing my cura results too
cura results
i am new to all this so i don't understand which settings needs to be tweaked
ok will try and give an update
If you share the photos of the top, bottom, and sides, we can help you work out what calibration and tuning needs to be done.
i can do dat with fresh print again for u if u need it ?
Just need it for the print I linked for you.
i'll print the kitchen and share the output den ?
Yes
@steady forge sorry for the tag i had one question
in kitchen sink settings -
Recommended Print Settings
All Layer Heights = nozzle diameter ÷ 2
All Line Widths = nozzle diameter
i am using nozzle of 0.4
so what layer height i need to keep ?
also didn't understand All Line Widths = nozzle diameter
?
Can't really explain it any more clearly than it already is.
For a 0.4 nozzle, all layer heights should be 0.2 (half of nozzle diameter), and all line widths should be 0.4 (same as nozzle diameter).
oh ok i usually use 0.2 layer height only so should be ok given my current settings
just disable thick internal bridges right or i need to change any other settings here?
ignore this ?
Still incorrect. Re-read what I wrote and the PDF instructions...ALL line widths need to equal nozzle diameter, no exceptions.
Yes, you can ignore this.
If it's not listed in the PDF instructions, then it doesn't matter.
oh oh ok ok got it
Moisture is not the only thing that can cause strings though.
ok how else should i troubleshoot i'll take a look at the pdf again and see if i can try to understand from there apart from dat what else do u think from top view so far?
How much calibration and tuning have you done? Typically you don't need to worry about troubleshooting until all those basics have been dialed in first.
i usually have done only temp tower to see which temp works best for my printer and filament and honesty until now i don't think i have gone above 205 in cura be it any pla filament so far i think maybe my printer does better that dat temp only ? not sure i am still trying out new filament soon once i get hold of a dryer
Ironically, the temp tower is probably the least useful tuning print. You need to calibrate your e-steps, pick a temp, then perform max flowrate, flow ratio, PA, and retraction tuning, in that order.
Until those are done, any troubleshooting will basically be a dog chasing its own tail.
ohk
how will i calibrate or test max flowrate, flow ratio both ?