#SOLVED: Bridge and budging on some model - tldr: not enough cooling!

1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

keen adder
#

I guess I threw myself into the ring too

Print on my Positron v3.2, so Bowden set up and upside down, about 300mm tube, 1.9mm ID Capricorn XS.

I notice that I nailed some other parts down but some is not the best. Sliced with 2.3.1 beta + adaptive PA, both the columns are seized in - I suppose it was a seam problem.

Bridge is quite droopy, the tips of the columns are melted but there (I suppose lack of cooling at I am at 100% for those layers - at max of the machine).

old remnant
#

have you updated to the release version?

keen adder
#

I was using the last profile I could find on that thread. But if there is newer, would you mind linking it?

old remnant
#

go to orca menu , "help" check for new updates"

keen adder
old remnant
#

yes get the update 🙂

keen adder
old remnant
#

is the test print with the new release?

keen adder
#

Yes. 2.3.1

#

I was watching multiple time and noticed that because the extreme overhang droop, so the nozzle will just push the whole plate up when running over because the edge is not flat after dropping (droop up, of course). Due to how the bed assembled, it's only rigid when being pulled down, not up.

So it explains the gap between those layers at the top of the benchy top, but I am not able to find a way to fix those overhangs properly.

Also I notice when slicing, both classic and arachne has a pretty big wide line for the center line for the roof overhang in front. And I did notice most of these line dropping are thicker/bigger flow lines

keen adder
old remnant
#

this bit

#

you have other issues going on here too

keen adder
# old remnant

Yup. I do have them there) that's why I mentioned budging. And opened a thread to get help 👍

I feel like my calibration shape is in pretty okay shape atm.

Can you take a look at the 3mf I included also to see if anything can improve it?

old remnant
#

ive just looked at your 3mf file you have made quite a few changes , i think you need to start with just a generic filament profile again

keen adder
# old remnant ive just looked at your 3mf file you have made quite a few changes , i think you...

My filament profile is started with a generic filament profile.

Beside temp and flow, max volume metric flow

  • PA: generic one
  • Adaptive PA - this one is interesting. Pretty sure one of those thing that at high enough acceleration the test print don't give enough distance. I have the wall perfect with test, and top surface, but at 8k and 10k accel follow the test, it looks good at 0.3 or so but in reality, the infill are all missing line so I drop it until it doesn't produce thin, non-wall-touching infill.
  • Fan speed and layer time: tuned to what will not produce a melted smoke stack of a benchy with "Don't slow down outer wall"
  • Retraction to minimize string, detraction amount to not have gap on the seam when nozzle travel back (I have gaps there even with PA in place and just retraction).

Mainly that's all. I follow step by steps down like that.

If you start from a generic profile, what steps would you take to fix the issue?

old remnant
#

just humor me and use a generic file print test file

keen adder
#

Ok. But with my temp and flow, and max volumetric speed?

#

What about process? Does it looks alright?

old remnant
#

PLamax 10 ^3mm 220C

#

fan 100%

keen adder
#

ok

#

I mean process to print, otherwise the settings required in profiles you asked are matched in with my current acceleration and speed. Filament profile stock generic, no PA, flow at stock generic, otherwise, fan, volume metric, temp, flow are to your request. Running now. Done in 20 mins so wait a sec.

keen adder
#

Hi)

old remnant
#

bit stringy , has the filament been dried?

keen adder
#

8h 50C food blast oven.
0.7mm retraction. 0.2mm detraction. Staying in dry box while printing and when not (has been 70-90% RH here for last 3 storms) and all my filaments are like that

Doesn't really happen on my DD extruder. This Positron only have about 300mm tube so it's pretty short.

#

Dry box has a out 200g of those little ball

#

10% in the box. I just dry the filaments yesterday

old remnant
#

im guess you have a direct drive

#

upside down printer👍

#

i would try the retraction test to see if you can tune it out,

keen adder
# old remnant im guess you have a direct drive

Yup bowden. 300mm tube, also the extruder is basically a reshelled Orbiter V2.0 - confirmed by LDO and I checked, I swap the upgrade kit from the V2.5 in (gears, shaft, bearings). I have been trying to go up in retraction but such short tube, it actually doesn't need much. In fact without detraction it has huge gap when travel between part. So I leave the retraction as high as it somewhat clean (I don't mind cleaning it very much) and a bit of detraction like that to fill in the space.

So the test print looks somewhat ok? Except the tips with the lack of cooling, and stringing from retraction. For those details I have my direct drive printer to do, much easier.

Beside that, what could be improve if those 2 issues are ignored? Lack of cooling is not solvable due to the toolhead design, and the stringings on small details I don't do with this printer.

Mainly to be able to print functional parts while able to carry it around)

#

On my own profile I noticed much cleaner strings I guess because of the PA are tuned in.

old remnant
#

long bowden tubes will always get some stringing , and some filamets will string more than others

#

im guessing a printer like that will be less tolerant of profile setttings

keen adder
# old remnant long bowden tubes will always get some stringing , and some filamets will str...

Yea. I am glad that it use a small bed and such short bowden. The strings are not what bothers me though.

But I mainly want to deal with the overhangs on the benchy and problems that it bump my layers up.

While also the layers on the 4 columns got budged out. That I actually don't know why. But my theory is that I don't cool them enough and they somewhat melted so when the nozzle moved back, neither the lines are clean as well.

old remnant
#

more cooling if you can

#

how about a couple of external side coolers

keen adder
#

Hmmm. Like put fans on the side of the machine then I want to print a bit fast?

old remnant
#

make a couple of side air ducts

keen adder
#

Since atm my little one can run up to 20k accel 480mm/s with the speed test script for good 100 iterations (Hiwin rails really help there, but the H-bot schematics are bad for X axis).

So atm I am am capping it at 12k travel and 10k for the infills.

Even learnt that the pa test is no good pass 8k, I guess the travel distance too short for that...

I have to lower the PA all the way to 0.1 for infill else I have just super skinny strings that don't stick to anything

keen adder
#

At the moment it already use dual ducts unlike the original

old remnant
#

if you can fit 5015 fan , i did a lot of test on them and found one from digikey with a good outpput

keen adder
old remnant
#

let me find the part number for you its 24v DC

keen adder
# old remnant more cooling if you can

Now you mentioned it.

I was running pretty conservative fan speed 30 to 85% since I prefer stronger layer adherence but the 4 columns that melted have pretty higher layer time due to the front hull that is solid so the overall fan speed for that layer is actually quite low. I will bump up the lowest fan speed to see if my Benchy improve : D

old remnant
keen adder
old remnant
#

im sure you can use a 2wire , i dont use klipper

keen adder
old remnant
#

Digikey will deliver everywhere

keen adder
# old remnant Digikey will deliver everywhere

Yup. My issue is not to order. To be able to take it out of custom here. I have a bunch of packages from AliExpress still there after 6 months.

Some old one took 8 months were the longest.

So other features of the test print looks good enough?

old remnant
#

other features look ok

keen adder
#

Also a question. Is there a way to limit the biggest line width that arachne will generate? I notice some overhang just got generate a huge 0.7mm line for my 0.4 nozzle and it droops crazy.

old remnant
#

if you have a 3mf file where it goes much larger post it on here and ill have a look

keen adder
old remnant
#

infill yes, is that the 3mf above

keen adder
#

That's the overhang on the front

#

Classic slicing also have similar issue.

Mainly when it generate that on the overhang, the huge plastic and extra flow is too much

old remnant
#

you can increase/decrease your line width a bit and they should all become the same width

#

just dont make the line width narrower than the dia of the nozzle

keen adder
#

Ah. So only way is to adjust general line width to pack more lines in that space, yea?

I only use 0.4 for top layer. The rests as you see, is from 0.42 and up

old remnant
#

if you set line witdh to 0.4 you may see more lines

keen adder
#

Ah okay. I thought so.

keen adder
# old remnant more cooling if you can

Never mind the layer shift.

You're absolutely right.... I really thought that I can nail the hull means I could get away with lower fan speed for longer layer time. But yes. I got the minimum fan speed up to 70% and those are mostly resolved! Not enough cooling on the columns does make them melt all over the place!

And the normal bridge is still good. Just now I need to check slicer whenever I have overhang to see if no thick lines are generated.

Heh, thanks a ton!!!

#

[Solved] Bridge and budging on some model - tldr: not enough cooling!

#

I even printed this with z-hop on too. The drooping on outer overhang cause I always use outer/inner/outer so those have issue. Generally I don't design my own part with more than 50⁰ overhang so it's not a problem.

keen adder
#

Won't win any contest but I am definitely using it for most for for sure

keen adder
#

Try to speed up but the cooling is definitely not enough for a 20-minutes benchy. The above is 30 mins but that's it. The 20-min with everything crank up actually finish just fine but cooling becomes a bottleneck

sour hill
keen adder
keen adder
#

It looks like best is to use thinner lines for wall. But tbh. I rarely encounter this issue since when I design my own stuff in CAD (FreeCAD) I just use an actually wall thickness to have it multiple of wall width