ive been printing benchies with white polyterra PLA and somehow i've developed stringing overnight and it seems to be moisture induced
#Polyterra White PLA not holding up to high humidity environments?
supple kernel
these benchies were printed 10 hours apart, no huge changes in gcode aside from setting a minimum layer time
surface quality on the left benchy also looks better despite printing faster than that on the right
wind bloom
Can you add your used temperatures, nozzle/bed? if you can add print speeds and what layer time you used would be pretty nice to troubleshoot
supple kernel
temp is 230/65 for both
layer time on the left print is 1s, 5 on the right print
150mm/s on the left, 50mm/s on the right for external perimeters
only other diff i can tell is the left one has a retract speed of 20mm/s vs 30 on the right
not sure if polyterra just soaks up moisture like a sponge
wind bloom
65 for bed it's kind of high for Polyterra, I print 55°C bed on PEI without any bed lift and I know some has gone lower.
230°C at 150mm/s can be ok, but at 50mm/s is way too high, Polyterra melts pretty easy and becomes pretty runny at that temperatures, you may want to try at lower temps if printing slow like 210°C for 50mm/s
I have only tried printing once a wet Polyterra piece and it only makes pops sounds and becomes brittle but doesn't look like that.
supple kernel
65 works for me since i have a thicker cast bed
so temp at the bottom of the bed where the heater is isnt as hot as the top, but moot point cos you can print pla unheated as well
if youd like more data i have a dry(left) vs wet comparison when doing the woodgrain test
supple kernel
I printed a new benchy (right) with the exact same gcode as when the filament was dried
tight linden
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09X29YPGZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 a few hours inside something like this might help. I personally store all of my filaments with desiccant in a container.
ocean loom
I’m on my first ever Polyterra. Banana of all things. I live in Great Lakes area on the water. Humidity can wipe out my large inventory of ASA or TPU and neither will recover in a dryer. They all run straight from dry boxes Cosplay and terra you can tell right away are two PLA which will absorb moisture like ASA. Run it on a 3 hour trip in the dryer with a 50 gram Wisedry. Then put the Wisedry in the microwave to recover. Pro pla and PETG there is little threat of moisture. Once a roll is actually wet I’d say toss it. If you getting snap,& crackles it’s time to pop it in the garbage.
void shoal
I’m on my first ever Polyterra. Banana of all things. I live in Great Lakes area...
I would tend to disagree, maybe try a different dryer method. Just to be clear, you maybe using a great method, but a dry box doesn’t actually do any drying it just prevents additional moisture. I have had some of the worst moisture logged nylons and TPUs recover beautifully in my toaster oven over a few hours time. Something else to consider is spool type and design when drying. Some solid wall spools can prevent success especially with heavy solid plastic sides.
ocean loom
Once Asa or TPU has absorbed water it will never return to spec. Mild moisture no worries but saturation the polymer comes out of solution and won’t return to that consistent extruded shape. Dryers and dry boxes don’t work because we don’t remove the moisture we heated into the air. I do with Wisedry bags by taking the moisture out and revitalize in the microwave. They have pellets turn orange to green. Weight them before and after and it’s surprising the weight they will pull off a 3kilo Asa half way through the roll. I keep 100grams of Wisedry in every sealed tub and they extract moisture from the tubs monthly
I’ve 3 dryers although the 5kilo beast is not finished yet. Waiting on parts. I had to create a roller to handle the monster 5K rolls but keep it low enough to fit in a Dog food tub. LowRider roller was born and the dryer has a cage to hold Wisedry to remove moisture. 5V heat pads SS temp prob H sensor controlled by pico w
Collectively our farm which is split in two 6 Prusa 9 hotheads 60+ kilos of Polymaker ASA. Fastest way to fix heatcreep from wet roll and get back in production toss the roll and nozzle out.
tight linden
I’m on my first ever Polyterra. Banana of all things. I live in Great Lakes area...
my toaster oven and my food dehydrator both work wonders on sucking the moisture out. after 12 hours in either I can put a spool into a box with a hygrometer in it and it won't go up a single percentage point.
my toaster oven usually has a small gap for the thermometer and the dehydrator has vents in the lid
ocean loom
Yup they sure work a lot better than your $50.00 dryer which just puts moisture inside the vessel but doesn’t evacuate it. I sneak into the kitchen to cure PC and nylons 😀. Got busted curing clear coat on intake manifold once
tight linden
eh?
you might want to put a temp probe and a hygrometer into the side of your dehydrator....
even with sainsmart epa-cf a couple days in the $50 dehydrator works wonders on print quality
when it's running, the RH inside my dehydrator is usually 12-18% when my place usually hovers around 40%
stuck crystal
Yup they sure work a lot better than your $50.00 dryer which just puts moisture ...
You know even a 50 dollar Sunlu dryer original can be modified with some holes for air exchange and moisture release:)
ocean loom
Actually to remove moisture takes a heck of a lot more than a couple holes. One way valves pump accumulator and condenser. Called air conditioning.
ocean loom
Yup read that Have several up dates on it. Hydrometer filament feeds. I’ve a dog food box with $5.00 heat pad SStemp probe pico-W and Wisedry bags as to not steam the moisture out of 5K rolls. The temp sensor on the pico is not so good so separate board. And I’ve had a few humidity sensors on the boat so I’m in search of something more durable