#3D Printing Corner
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Fish?
only 3D printed fish
Swedish are ok as well.
I'm using Solid Edge right now and I'm really liking it
Coworker buddy was off today but that'll work in his favor, printed some more for him.
I finally cooked up the stand, wondering if I should print it fancy or not
used solid edge to draw it. export the fancy one, suppress the features, export the simple one
might just go with full rectilinear 5% infill. will be plenty of support, just a tad more filament but print time is cut by 60% or so.
how does this happen?
Dunno. They said it was a brand new bottle.
TinkerCAD has this new sketch thing. Experimenting with it but I have to go to work. 😦
It didn't have a sketch thing before?
Nope, you worked entirely with geometric shapes.
does this count? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AH-Oa-hU1iQ
I feel like this channel outta be in the community section. 
But I'm happy it exists.

Yeah I made it because we kept talking about printing stuff in the hardware room.
Trickle down tech discussions.
I used to find 3D printing stuff mainly in the off topic spot, I guess cause I normally dont drop down to pc-hardware.

This is new. Really either works, I just did this to get it out of the hardware room.
I need to start designing the right side of my sim rig. Procrastinating on that.
what are yall using to do your model ?
I started using Siemens solid edge. has a free version and is fully offline
no in browser shit, no cloud limitations
depends on what you use it for. It's good if you know how to use it
I learned CAD on it
it would drive me crazy as well if I had to use it at work
i have 8 ish years in sw but oh god solidwork is so unstable
true
didn't use solid edge too extensively to tell you if it's more stable or not
but give it a try
and its free so its great sinc emy sw school license expire soon
just trying out the synchronous mode. Ordered is kinda how solidworks works
and synchronous is how the software I use at work works
kinda liking it. feels faster
I had a supplier for aluminum profiles come over to my workplace today and I got the urge to convert my SV06 into a coreXY machine 
Saw a thing and I was like "I can print that", and then see they give you the dimensions. So I'll be printing that.
Hey, that's convenient
Holy crap. That's a 3d print.
yoiu wanna tell me that everything here is printed?
What type of printing
Also it look like it’s under a coat of primer and a coat of paint
Well yeah, resin models are typically painted.
Could be powder printing too
I know it's resin because it was from a resin printing group for a specific brand of resin printers. 
fired up my 3D printer. got a request to do a small 3D printed crown which will be given to the person who brings the best waffles to work.
borrowed the model from printables, scaled it to 150% and let it rip
Bringing waffles to work absolutely deserves being gifted a crown.
I probably would've made my own if I had a waffle maker at home
How to 3d print waffle maker
i unlocked a new adestion helping technique
What kind of printer is this? Looks rather industrial
Plate adhesion for your plate adhesion.
its an anisoprint A4 (honestly its awful) never struglled that much with a printer
I don't like glass build plates, never have.
i haev a maekshift not glass plate but it has isseu with temp then
the only good thing of this printer is the CBF and CCF capability
if it work well
idk if it work well i havent try and i dont see the point of even using that
I use PEI and G10 on mine.
PEI sheet on my printer as well
A friend had a glass sheet on his printer. Was a nightmare as well
the issue is i dotn haev any good way to mount other thing that glass on ths printer
Flashbacks of dealing with hairspray and kapton tape.
i mean ihave a glass bed with a not glass building plate stuck on it as other option
but then bed teamp i fucked up
I still need to get some better clips for the G10 sheet, big prints will pull it right up.
lat time i printed a big thingy the whoel bed left its place

Hi guys, was looking into getting a 3d printer eventually
Seems like the P1S is my go to, but I've seen the firmware stuff bambu's been doing
are there any good alternatives, or is bambu still sort of it's own class?
Bambu is the Apple of the 3D printing world and that's why I won't get one
seems like a good alternative. you'd need to actually watch some reviews tho
I have an SV06 which is a cheapo 3D printer
but I kinda want to transform it into a CoreXY printer
Like the idea of enclosed XY rather than an open bed slinger
Think I'd like the option of doing engineering materials
yeah, corexy is definitely the way to go if you wanna print fast
and if you wanna do ASA/ABS, you need an enclosure
you should just find the few printers that you like, watch reviews on them, buy whichever fits you best
I haven't kept up on the 3d printing scene
more work came up, this time it's some sort of holder for a light, split in half because it's 380 mm in length otherwise. 2 pcs needed so 4 halves in total. just a smidge over 5 hours of printing
also, figured out how to connect my printer directly to the slicer so now I don't even export gcode files. I send them straight to the printer
less fluff on my PC
I wonder if it's the actual hardware of the touchscreen itself that is unable to keep up with refreshing the webpage
feels like when the webcam is hitching, everything is hitching
I see what you mean, almost looks like the printers lagging
the printer itself isn't
also the commands for printing aren't, otherwise it'd crash
just video refresh and the web interface
Might just be the connection to the internet then
Either the printer to the servers, your box or your PC
it's all on LAN
Yeah like to your modem and back to the PC
it's a modern, dual 2.5 gig capable modem. I doubt it's the problem
I've been stuck like this for 10minutes
printer is also sitting right next to it
v strange
always sucks
the actual fps is low I just noticed
indicating that it's the printer more than anything
3D Printing group I’m in shared this. Thought it was cool.
damn commercial 3d printing looks cheap, little orange pi zero 3 case only cost me 5 bucks to get it made in canada from forgelabs
apparently it has a issue with the case walls being 1mm thick but not actually seeing that, says the walls have to be at least 0.8mm when they're 1.5mm
perhaps it's talking about the little display support for thickness looking at it, it is pretty thin
probably only costs like 2-3 CAD to make
ye it is pretty small only about 60mm L and 80mm W, i think it's maybe 20-35mm H and fusion 360 is telling me it'd only take about a hour to print so pretty quick job too
i stand corrected
60 x 62 x 25mm
you have the 3d model for it?
yeah, fusion 360 model exported to obj
found a orange pi 3 zero model to use for measurments tho it's only as a mesh so i couldnt adjust anything on it
i even put some text to label the odd 13 pin headers and what they do
pretty much all it's designed for is give my direct access to the pins and a small display to see whats up with it. has some little pins to silde to pi over and just plop it in and have it stay in place
theres also a friction fit back panel tho i'll probably have to sand it down a bit to properly fit
depends on what kind of gap there is and how tuned the printer is. But usually it is better to just print it bigger and then sand it down
I know my printer so I can just get the fit I want by playing with the gaps
I'll design in a 0.2mm gap, that's usually perfect for me.
I should probably print a clearance test and actually tune all that shit
never touched it
are yall willing too print stuff and ship it? i can cover shipping ofc
gonna need a tobii mount im like 90% when i get my new tv
cuz its gonna be wall mounted
idk figured id ask otherwise i can online but its like 30$ just for the stand and i feel like thats alot idk how expensive 3d printing stuff is but i thought it was cheap
Probably best for you to find someone locally
ig true didnt think of that
Lots of people do that shit these days
any sites for finding local or no
Not that I know of
it was a small plastic mount for under the tv for 30 plus shipping
like shipping i understand
but 30 for some plastic?
thought it was a little silly
Yeah, that sounds expensive
Do you have a model?
For that tobii mount
un no it was just Esty
i also have no clue what will work
Oh, like selling already printed things?
my new g5 is a 55in
and gonna be wall mounted
i really have no clue how well this will work with my setup
ill find out in 10 days
As I've said, best to find someone who can print it locally
But you need to have a model
Since you have the monitor and everything, it's easy for you to measure it up and draw it
i suck at drawing
also would need a caliper right
which tbh i should get one lowkey nice
ye calipers help with small measurements, i think for tobii's size if you send it off to a online shop to get printed you'll probably want to make the measurements in centimeters so like 10mm would be 1cm and 1 mm is 0.1cm
the site i use to print stuff uses only inches or centimeters last i bothered to check and it isn't too much of a hassle to convert from mm to cm
speaking of which i should grab a pair of calipers too instead of digging for 15 minutes to find some obscure items dimensions
alternatively you do what i did for my orange pi case and find a 3d model of it then make your mount around the model and leave a bit extra to sand for a tight fit
Very strange to hear that. Even for 3d printing, tolerances can be adjusted by tenths of a mil so using centimeters doesn't make sense at all
Doesn't have to be expensive. Even a barely accurate one for $20 is better not having one
So your options are either to pay someone to draw the model which will be impossible if you don't know exactly what you want with exact measurements to provide
Or you can measure and draw it up yourself
No I need one
Like the amount of fucking times I've been like a caliper would be so nice rn
And I don't have one
So it works out
Ye I'd get the measurements then either find someone too make it or how hard is it 3d modeling something myself
Can I do it in blender or some shit
I've done a tad of Java coding so in terms of difficulty how does it compare
mistype. better than not having one
idk, it's not hard
especially for simple shapes
real
blender work i learned that a little bit or what should i use
should use something parametric, Fusion 360, onshape, solid edge
these are free
Ight
freecad if you wanna torture yourself 
hey hey hey for setting up decent profiel for my fillament what test woudl you recomand me to do (i'm doing heat tower and speed tower)
Benchy is pretty good test actually
Has vertical text, text on the base plate, stringing test
Some overlap
text seems real (both of them)
but also fined out with temp tower that i was not printign at the proper temp
(PLA+ was not just pla) 
What temp do you have to print at?
I print some starter PLA at 210
190 would probably be fine like it says on the spool but I'm printing faster than suggested
i have PLA + and after my temp tower it seem liek the good place is 220c
maybe i haev issue with z offset
for that just print a single layer square
also oteh rquestion is it normal to see the infill patern on teh exterior wall ?
how many walls are you using?
you should be using at least 2
3 is pretty strong, 4 is really strong
strength in prints actually comes mostly from perimeters, not the infill
4 iirc
Idk if we will see it well with discord compressions
the vertical line align perfectly with the infil
well, it is mostly out of focus but I can see the lines
very strange indeed
how does it look like in the slicer?
hmm, looks fine here, does it actually have 4 walls if you make a section cut?
this one is 1 wall
cause i dont really care about the strutural strength of a benchy XD
well, that's probably why you see the infill. does the printer do the wall first then infill or the other way round?
The point of Benchy is to make sure your printer is dialed in, so print it as if you would something you wanted to keep.
they're probably trying to do a "speed benchy". It's a challenge to print it as fast as possible
so lowest infill, 1 wall
Ah yeah
iirc there are rules for it to count
i dont know hwo can i check other than printign something ?
it's a setting you can change
i dont fidn it
what slicer?
i mean i pritn some stuff with 1 wall only some with 4, some eevn with 100% infill when needed
cura cause i hate the dedicated slicer of teh printer
well, yeah. That's what you're supposed to do
never liked cura tbh. I used prusaslicer, now starting to use orcaslicer
i ahev a printer no oen has with a weird dual head adn so far i havent took time to learn how to create printer profile for other slicer
never seen a printer that slow too (especialy for a coreXY architecture
I could not get Orca to work at all for me, it just put me in an infinite loop of asking for info when trying to make a profile for my printer.
did you use a preset or did you build the profile from ground up?
I did mine from ground up since it's a klipper SV06
No preset for my printer, had to make my own. But it gets to a point where it just goes back and forth between windows asking for the same info over and over.
printer will go as fast as you tell it to, the question is if it will print correctly and not destroy itself
Found others having the same problem with it.
what is werid is some fiel from people who used before me dotn haev those weird lien when i haev them
yeah and no it cant go over 80mm/s
corexy that doesn't go above 80 mm/s? that's trash
I print at 120-160 mm/s with 6k accel with a bedslinger
welcome to the world of printer made for CCF printing
adn i dont even knwo if it work well
well, that's what 3d printing is. you throw shit at the wall and see what sticks
all about experimentation
this printer for me is just an overrpiced piece of shit tbh
i have better result with the CR10 mini we have at the other side of the station
and then there is a separate one for "outer walls before inside"
but that latter one doesn't matter if you're only doing 1 wall
and turn on advanced mode or expert or whatever it's called
founded it was in hiden option of teh advanced mode
yeah, that's usually how it is
and its set to infil first
do the opposite
wall first ?
i guess i will try that than
also, a good idea is to add bonding lines for infill
but if you want it fast I guess it doesn't matter
speed is not my main issue it will be slow anyway on thsi printer
what i sbounding line ?
I mean this
but I guess for a benchy, it don't matter
it coneects all the lines, doesn't just stop at the sharp end
your lien look so much thiner than mine XD
these are the defaults
oh i guess that explained mine are set to 0.8 for some reason
these are default speeds cura gives me
i use those speed to for now wanna test the different speed to haev great quality print but didnt had time yet
wehn you chaneg some speed settign do you ussualy just change the main "print speed" or you dial each type of speed ?
wtf, I adjusted all the speeds and it's still showing 1 hour and 12 minutes
yeah
orcaslicer immediately only gives me 30 minutes
I didn't even set up that much
just downloaded orca and punched in some quick numbers I use
Maybe orca slicer is better optimized for tool path
I should give orca a go tbh it seems to give you more control than cura
punched in a few other numbers, got it down to 28 minutes
yeah, idk what's up with cura but I never personally liked it
this is something that I'd try printing
28min benchy that is quite fast
Could do it faster probably
I've done it faster before

24 mins iirc
Me with my 1h to 1h30 benchy 
I've always had the idea of converting my bedslinger into a corexy
Could print much faster then
If you have high speed filament
Just turn up the temp
deos any of you know which orca slicer website is teh real one
Use github
Then you know it's real
ok
after some testing my printer kinda shit itself if goign over 40mm/s

i guess it make a bit of sense since its made for continuous fiber printing
and I only print the first layer at that speed
ofc I don't print CF
mien is not cf but ccf
still, should be possible to print pretty fast
i think sicne you need real low speed for CCF they didnt put fast motor
printing the reverse engineered center caps 
didn't bother trying to fix the mesh, just redrew the part based on the scan
This is the way
yeah, I ain't a blender user or anything. Just redrawing using parametric CAD is much faster for me 😄
will it print?
turns out no
one of the pieces detached as soon as I the supports ended
modified a little chamfer into the print so the brim has actual geometry to hold onto the part
Success
Why printing in such a weird orientation ?
And not flat on the side with the screw hole
strength. These will be screwed where the slots are and there will be a small piece of rubber in the center hole where the rounded face is. A sliding door will be impacting that small piece of rubber/rounded face so if I printed flat on the face where the slots are, it would be shearing the part exactly along the layer lines
Oh ok
fdm?
Yep, bamboo P1S
so you had to sand it to get rid of the layer lines, nice
Yeah, I printed it at .16 and then welded the 3 parts together, the dome, backpiece and the face mask. once that was done I sanded the helmet itself and then using bondo+acetone I coated all the other imperfections.
There was a gnarly hole in the top of it for example.
Today I went back and sanded it back down to almost the print and I'm probably gonna sand it again a bit tomorrow before I hit it with filler primer and get it one step closer to paint.
Making Helmets has been a long time want for me ever since 2018 when I got my first Ender 3, bamboo made it so much easier to do
-# This is my first one
will it be a prop or an actual helmet for a costume?
Both.
I plan to finish making the whole armor set and then when I'm not using it, I'll display the helmet on a stand in my game room.
My ideal would be to finish this one and jump into making a helmet for every sci-fi or media I've fallen in love with and have a helmet wall.
sounds cool
I'll share a picture once its completed.
still deciding how I wanna deal with the visor
you wish you got the p1p?
or you not had an issue with it being open?
Wait
P1S is the enclosed one
nvm
Only thing I knock them for is that I wish they had bigger build plates but I’ll wait for the bigger one that isn’t an h2d and isn’t ~$3k
Other than that my p1s has like ~700hours print time and still prints like a champ
Pretty much what’s on my wish list too
Something enclosed, big bed, engineering materials
Doesn’t cost an arm and a leg
I mean if I had a casual 3k laying around I wouldn’t mind an h2d but balling on a budget is hard
i wish i had 3d printer money so i could make useless stuff like the rocktopus 
fighting really hard with myself not to push the button on the P1S AMS2 combo rn
£700
I'd totally use it for a few projects I have in mind, I wish I could justify it 
Clean af
Tbh ams seems rarely worth the price
I feel like it something you use on or 2 time then never use it again
Does the ams2 not have a drying function?
Idk
It’s pretty consistently humid where I’m at
It does.
I don’t have my own printer only my company one and I have issue of filament too dry 
did you used like a ski mask for the visor ?
Yeah
But like brittle to a point of unspooling a bit to put in the printer break the filament

Tbf it’s a whole 10% humidity in my office (where the printer and fillanent is)
And yet I still have 3dryee if I wanted to make my fillanent extra dry 
Nah, I bought a visor on amazon and cut it out and stuck it in there using hot glue and some visor clips.
I wanted to vacuum form it to get the more accurate version but I dont have the right tools or equipment for that atm.
Work well liek that too
I hate working with hot glue 
It’s not so bad, I’m used to it plus I burn my fingers all the time with random shit so I’m unaffected
Cyanoacrylate glue everything 
My other option is resin 
I just hate working with hot glue
Never worked with either of those but I’m fairly confidant that hot glue is easier lol.
I lied, didnt realize that was another name for super glue.
anyone have a good model for clamping 4020 extrusion to a desk?
not specifically for 4020 extrusions. nothing on model sites?
hey hey hey fellow 3d printer! i was wondering something does some printer more adapted to certain plastic ?
like with my actual printer i dont manage to get any clean print with PLA
but some "hard to print material" like tpu work flawlessly
your settings are wrong. That's all there is to it. Well, maybe for ABS and ASA if you don't have an enclosure, you're gonna have a very hard time getting it to work but otherwise every printer should be able to do every material
i have an enclosure and abs and asa work fine
but i cant find why pla refuse do do print clean
its been like 2month i'm trying to print cleanely in pla
nothing seems particularely weird on my setting
what printer is this? bowden or DD extruder? for PLA you want fan speed to be 100% all the time except for maybe the first layer
anisorpint A4 (a single head with dual nozzle for cff printing)
and its bowden
seems like your printer is a bit of a specialty one so I guess you'll just have to experiment
its been 2month i'm experimenting
i am at a point where i'm gonna gave up on PLA i think
and just petg/assa/pc print everything
what's the actual issue when you print PLA?
random gloging massive string and random print failure
- sometime part split in 2 midprint
on a layer line
I'd like to see pictures. also, have you tried a single layer print to verify the first layer looks good?
@pure wyvern those are some print taht were sucessful
sorry for teh delay i got called
they look okay-ish apart from the stringing. Have you tried even more retraction?
i could
I really don't know what's too much retraction for bowden
when I use DD, my retraction is just 0.4 mm for PLA
bridging is pretty bad too and the most anoying is the random "fail" i got sometime even on file i already printed
Look like they were made by spiderman 😄
i may give it a look

weird