#Ritchey–Chrétien enjoyers thread
1 messages · Page 34 of 1
just before i started imaging tonight
but i didnt touch the imaging camera and i didnt put any torque in either direction on the imaging train either
i need a new guide cam for this rig
the 120MM is too bad to use even on the quttro for galaxy season on an OAG
i put my 585 on the OAG
it's possible the weight of it made something shift but im not sure how likely that is
P1 FHD-OAG MAX. The prism is designed to illuminate a 585🫠
Was about to say i had that on my quattro 150p when i had the wrong backfocus
Ooo the quattro 150p reducer, that one is amazing
I would get the quattro 200 or 250 with the 150p 0.85 reducer 😉 get a bu spider and mask, add a cover on the back and a fan for air in the scope, and at last a new focuser
Also here u can get the reducer for the 150p
SkyWatcher Komakorrektor 0,86x
Or get a nexus 0.75
I don't think Vel agrees with that statement 
For that price? It def is
Funky annoying stuff happens when you reduce a telescope.
It can only be considered good for small sensors
Sharpstar mpcc corrects much further and the Nexus corrects apsc
That's not the big issue. the issue is how far into the tube it protrudes. It's a long CC, and having it protruding inside the tube without any shielding or baffles, it's a recipe for disaster
Like this ? 
Many of them intrude and it's not always a problem
it's better when it doesn't 😅
The issue with them protruding into the tube is the fact that they can pick up light directly from the sky and funnel it down onto your sensor.
It floods the sensor with unwanted signal and tons of reflections.
That's easily fixed one way or another
Move the mirror or screw a m48 spacer on the end of the CC
i did both
neither worked
@slate falcon there's nothing immediately apparent with the imaging train
i dont see any new gaps or anything
huuuhh
did your focus slip?
not focus
collimation
Then there's another source
No
It's uneven throughout the whole focus travel.
When I replaced the stock coma corrector, all of those problems went away.
I think the blame lies solely on how far into the tube that one needs to be.
Hmmm I just noticed a larger than usual gap at the bottom of my OAG
Yeah it would be an internal reflection from the ordinary light path and not from being exposed
If you sufficiently protected the end of the CC
As in the stock cc was not painted sufficiently and that's the actual problem
The front end of it was painted.
The rest of it
Unfortunately it didnt matter since the ambient light from the sky could enter from on axis light
It would have required painting the inside.
And I cant be asked to take it apart and risk destroying it.
You shouldn't have to do that lol
I would have because the reflections were internal reflections caused by light from the sky entering from the normal aperture of the telescope.
I tested this too btw.
My main point here is I don't think the problem is intrusion but the stock cc being badly flocked
If you sufficiently covered the end of the cc
I know somebody who tried this and it didnt work.
I didnt give this a try because I already painted the front of it.
So the threads are all gummed up by paint.
If you cover the cc with a spacer you are eliminating the possibility of light from the aperture entering the CC
The only source of reflection is from the secondary then
depending on the orientation of the cam that could be the problem 
There's an issue with doing this in my case too
The point of focus on the quattro 150p is such that you barely have to rack it out to reach focus with that CC.
That means that sometimes, you get misshapen stars and an extra pair of diffraction spikes because the coma corrector is so far in.
If I add an extension at the front longer than like 5 mm, it's over.
It needs to be longer than that to have sufficient area to dampen any reflections with flocking.
Then sure that's the problem
Even then
That particular corrector has something up with it.
The elements are introducing astigmatism or something.
It also cannot correct my 533 well.
Let alone a 571.
It's not sufficient for the kinds of things I want to do with this scope so a quality upgrade was already welcome.
can you even cut the corrector?
No 😭
;-;
It wouldnt be worth it across the board.
thats kinda shit
Yeah it can only work on very small sensors
I am only taking issue with the idea that protrusion is a problem in of itself
Because most ccs are very long and often protrude
use mini sheets of film
@harsh matrix i was somehow getting round stars while being the worst out of collimation i have ever been 
how come i was only seeing half my mirror
but round stars?!
astrobrokenography
💀
Horrendous seeing is about the only thing I can think of.
i thought i had horrendous seeing
this all makes sense now
on why i usually get 2-3 arcsec seeing
but recently its been so bad
soo
that could explain it
but it doesnt explain why the stars were looking good out of focus
No it doesnt, good point.
buut now my stars do look a bit better
unexplainable phenomena
ig
the out of focus stars through the clouds is on par with my previous in focus stars
i mayy be cooked
previously it was measuring between 6-8fwhm
dang
you could do marakins chain
however you spell it
i didnt realise that one nebula is so bright
monkey head
sadly wind is still real
Nah ive already got a target in mind
Plus I did that last year
this is the best focus i have had in monts
wadafsk
now my hfr is like 3.2 -3.3
im slightly oversampled so it makes sense
abell 13
why
caught up in some stuff
ok
@harsh matrix 10 mins of data
stars look better than before
some dodgy frames are getting stacked here tho
heres after removing some more dodgy
Is anybody expert here enough to tell me if by any chance i need to collimate the rc?
Thats too far out of focus to be useful.
Try this @tulip iris
It is impossible to tell if it is collimated with a picture of a screen. You are not coplanar to it
There is mod to collimate with the defocus method
If you want a real collation, you have to use a tri-bathinov mask
I like these website to create one :
https://skeye.rocks/tools/mask/
https://satakagi.github.io/tribahtinovWebApps/Bahtinov.html
The tri-bathinov V2 is really good for collimation because it show the offsets better
Quickly create Bahtinov or Tri-Bahtinov masks in 2D or 3D. The Bahtinov design is used for focussing, while the Tri-Bahtinov design is useful for focussing and collimation. 2D designs can be printed on paper and then cut manually, or they can be cut with a vinyl cutter. The 3D STL files can be directly printed on a 3D printer.
Sorry i never did this beforr
I remember that to check the collimation i had to defocus on a star
There was a fun paper out today about getting an RC working https://arxiv.org/pdf/2602.16415
Officina Stellare 🤤
It look very intersting !
Thank you for sharing
Actually posted something on Astrobin for once:
https://app.astrobin.com/i/0n10om
woa :3
25inches of snow today
i levt you a comment 
astrobin can translate cat!!
blue orionm
I got like 16 lol
i got 0 inches
u dont get snow prob
i do rarely
@harsh matrix What’s the largest sensor the RC reducer can use
A 533 if that's the one im thinking of, you need a flattener to go any bigger. Especially with an RC6
I got the apertura 0.67x
So you put a flattener with the reducer? Huh how’s that work
Why did the reducer say APSC on Agena then
apsc for 8"
Sooo I just need to buy an RC8, got it
if ur fine wuth dodgy corner stars
BlurX fixable?
F/9
You could get a reducer/flattener. Something that does both, or get a flattener and put it behind the reducer. Flatteners are the only things with strict back focus requirements.
I wouldn't even use that reducer with APS-C with my 8
The corners are already very dodgy at native with APS-C and the reducer will magnify that.
Nice
We doin M 51 with the Quattro from here.
Im able to do 5 minute broadband subs all night without blowing anything out.
Because the SQM went back up. 
It seems to fluctuate heavily on a seasonal basis.
It's basically a bortle 4.5 in the fall, and then drops back down to bortle 3 in thw winter.
Perfect timing though because I want those super faint tidal tail features and I'm willing to run up here again for another 2 nights next month if it means I can make that happen. 
smol stars
Yeah the seeing was surprisingly decent for this location.
The aberrations present are from my phone and not the scope.
I did have to adjust collimation once I got here but it was an extremely small adjustment.
The field looks great.
thought so
yea!
Hah we always do the same things man
I did this some days ago
How much signal will u get?
Uh I dunno
Was supposed to get 2 nights, >12 hours on it, but it's completely overcast despite every weather app I have showing clear and no clouds until 6 am.
So most likely, only going home with 6 hours of good data this time.

Ywah i feel you
Same
Yesterday i had technicslly i clear night
Came back home after going out and low clouds came in
I got 4 hrs on mine and thats it, dont look at the stars i have to reprocess it hehe
We usually do but this year we got non 
I was seeing about that much in single subs
F/4.1 in bortle 3 with long subs is absolutely unhinged.
The brightest parts of both galaxies barely exceeded 50% of my camera's full well when doing 5 minute lum subs.
If i tried 5 minute lum subs from home, the whole galaxy would be white.
Or the whole image would be.
@slate falcon you are right, the weirdness with the RC was a light leak

My tired dumb bass forgot to cover the primary collimation holes on my decoupler.

flo sells decouplers now
Hell yeah
Thats the one I forgot to cover btw

might be the most insane data I've ever captured

holy data
rc 8?
Quattro 150P
in bortle 3
w/ Televue Paracorr Type 2
I have been preparing it for this moment. 
It has finally met expectations
actually exceeded them lol.
i thought you had an rc
@tight lodge
the Quattro has grown up so fast 
I have an RC8, a Quattro 150P, and a RedCat 51
The Quattro 150P is my second rig for this season
i will never gett a quattro
I would have brought the RC but I didn't have time to pack it
I had to get there before sundown and was already leaving too late
those 6" GSO mirrors are 
also first night guiding
I thought that was just for rc's
good luck sir
what
that everything goes well?
oh, yea
i have no idea how to use open phd2 so im gonna need someone to help me tonight
mainly for the newts lol
not really for the RC's
usb
all the way
never use ST4
good to know
lol
Setup pic
nikkor 300mm lens for guiding
cute in proportion to the scope
Made a path today so I can EVENTUALLY get out and shoot something:)
Oooh, that's juicy 🤤
lol i had to do same
just did an 8 min long sub
with my wobbly mount
@harsh matrix@frosty shard is this sub good for being 1kg overweighed on a mount made for visual
Damn
my goat target
looking sick
Maybe my processing skills are just ass
@frosty shard @slate falcon continuum subtracted NIR from lum here
NIR highlights the spiral arms
oh wow
i think thats bc the spiral arms are more light bc of the light passing through it
no
likely not
most likely you're seeing them glow in the near infrared because they are hot
just like the tail being thrown off by the companion
i forgot about the silly secret ir emissions from a radiation source
yeah
i cant remember the name
string cheese
i need to get lum for this guy next year
and i will have to retake with longer subs
it looks like the inverse of when i use the elliptical star glow removal thingy i made and it just leaves the arms
ye
ill have mono hopefully by then too 
@slate falcon well i tried to correct the affected flats with new ones that arent affected by the leak
there's some obvious issues here that we saw in the lights
this explains that
dunno where this dust mote came from either
i havent disassembled this thing since before that day and today
another way to look at it
i subtracted the old flats from the new ones tonight and these are the residuals
definitely a fat light leak
2 nights in bortle 3 with an f/4.1 scope is goated
thats insane... make it 5
THAT'S A LOT OF DAMAGE GALAXY CLUSTERS
yup
i might depending on weather
The BCG of the cluster next to the bright star is SDSS J133218.27+470937.7
I don't know if the cluster itself is catalogued
it is called Zwicky 6057
Wait wrong cluster, that's the other nearby cluster's BCG: this one is SDSS J133218.27+470937.7
Oh thanks
Part of me is tempted to image just the cluster
Quattro finally performing?
Not just
Literally obliterating my very low expectations.
This star alone is hubble quality 🤤
Wait... f/4.1?
Yeah
It's F/4 normally and the paracorr has a 1.1x magnification factor.
Aaah, I see. That's why your focal length is almost the same as mine
Almost
The only things that bother me are my fault though 
What did you do?😂
Not sure atm
Whatever I did caused the bright part of the halo just around the core of all of the stars to remain extremely noisy despite denoising.

The RC seems like it very well may be completely fixed now as well.
The weirdness i saw in my M101 test WAS a light leak because of ME.
I created it out of negligence 
speaking of galaxy clusters, Is anyone planning on imaging NGC 4535?
Can't be worse than what I did to your M33
I won't. I'm planning to shoot the Coma cluster
good choice
Nice framing too

Yeah, I'm gonna try it so maybe I get my galaxy enthusiasm back 
I have heared a lot of talk about electric auto focuses on a RC6 so I wanna know your opinion.
Yes or no? And why?
EAF are always good. No matter the OTA
Ehhh idk about that
some stars from hubble look weird lol
Do you have a mono cam? If so, you may need one to preserve your sanity
You can get away without one as I did if your filters are sufficiently parfocal, but if not, it'll make refocusing for filters a whole lot more convenient
yes I do, I also have an EAF mounted on my RC6 but I was just curious
What I can say is that an EAF is not necessarily faster than manual focusing
Hubbles stars have much tighter cores yk being in space and all
He means that the star shapes look weird
but the filters used made them look unique and not quite perfect imo
^good example pickles
Ik what he meant I'm just clarifying what i meant by my statement of "it doesn't look like hubble"
I never said it looks like hubble tho
think that was Pickles
Just under 2h of break last night, including setup, before clouds and snow hit again:(((
I can see some Ha, nice
I swear, feels like this object is cursed for me:) I have lost 2 nights worth of footage to a corrupted files and a bad power cable, there hasn't been clear night in what feels like forever
its nice having a clear night after weeks of clouds
Why have you lost it
M31 is to blame
get it back
NOW
thios might be too bright
i think i may change it

I revised my M 33 image, adding more Oiii and improving the blending of the broadband + narrowband
oh and I changed the contrast between the brighter regions of the arms and the dimmer ones to make the transition smoother
at the bottom left, is that a galaxy cluster?
previous process vs new
yes
Zwicky 6057
2.3 billion light years away
@harsh matrix Your working with the advanced seq right?
yes
How can I restart my sequence so it doesn’t say 16/16 pics taken for example
Bc the progress is at max
I want it to be 0 again
Nvm I found out how
By hitting the reload circle

that galaxy field around M51 is really neat
colourful spikeys :3
is this w the 150quatro
yes
theyre thicc
BTW how to I guide something when it’s moving from north east to north west?
Well: North -> North east -> North -> North West
like what
150p has thicc spikeys with a cnc
M81/82
you just guide
calibrate at the celestial equator
PHD2 handles the rest
i dont own a refractor that you can put a reducer on

there’s such a thing?
or do you mean you don’t own a refractor
petzval refractors
You can put a reducer on a Petzval
Askar sells ones for the 60f and 71f
not on a redcat

Goddamnit i Just wanted to Take a Test frame for fun..
New Project it is lol
Lol
Real
Didnt expect this in 60 secs xd
I wouldnt have expected that either tbf.
i have that out of focus!!!!
It a beauty
it is even out of focus lol
Yeaa
veery defined structure
urs looks so detail 
The 5min sub Looks Juicy as well
so flavour
Hubble is also oversampled
So is every telescope on earth
Except refractors
But those arent telescopes
Oh
Plenty of fast Newtonians are undersampled too (with common cameras)
Though Hubble is f/24 
Eh once you get to a large enough aperture you will be undersampled releative to your diffraction limit but never against the atmosphere
Unless you live on a mountain in chile or sum
How big are those pixels holy
In technical terms, they are big chungi
Idk offhand
its got a fat mirror tho and is hypersharp
15 μm linear
The "high resolution" channel has 21um pixels 😭
on WFC3
Sill massive
It's all about étendue
even with a 6" its hard to be oversamples
im undersampled
get better
yes
but its still hard to be oversampled with a 6"
unless you barlow up
or get 2um pixels or something
f4 2um ur still undersampled
what
the
I mean i am considering i got 1 arcsecond per pixel and my seeing is usually 2 arcsecond 😭 but sometimes we do get good seeing like around 1 arcsecond and those are the times i wish i had 0.5 arcsecond pixels
i wonder if an adc could help with good seeing even with long subs
Atmospheric Distortion Corrector
atmospheric dispersion xorrectir
Right well adc fixes the color separation so i dont think it will improve your seeing
Also if you got a mono camera you dont need an ADC
it shouldnt no
Wait did i misunderstood this wdym by that
lets say its good seeing but its a hot and humid day
like u wont be able to tell its good seeing
but it is
surely it would help
especially for lum data
this calls for a science experiment tea
Yeah could help with a luminance data
Also how wouldn't you be able to tell like what is preventing you from being able to notice that it's good seeing
water in air
makes light not light properly
makes stars bloated
you wont get proper seeing readings
sleeby thoughts fr
I dont think adc fixes that
if you tune the ADC properly you can
adc is insane for planety so why not deep sky?!?!
Yeah i dont see why not
Well, with a mono imaging train it's kinda pointless
You're already shooting relatively narrow portions of the spectrum
The distortion can be compensated for with registration
Even with OSC you can re-register the color channels
ye
The reason you want an ADC for planetary or visual is because you need to get those photons in all at once, and you may not be able to do so without the object rotating
i thougt there would be info loss tho
From the atmosphere absorbing light sure
But not from the dispersion
that makes sense
Also you need to adjust the ADC overnight if you want the best results from it
yeaa
otherwise it gives u ca
You'd need to both rotate it and adjust the altitude setting
awh :c
gonna get chat to annotate this for me
I dont see a problem
@slate falcon I introduced a ton of spherical aberration by tightening the secondary mirror screws i guess
So once again you were correct to say to loosen them up
amy knows RCs better than you and doesnt even own one lol
Cause they've modeled and ray traced them
I have not
I almost did
guys
I noticed this Oiii egg when doing a comparison earlier
look at what was at its heart
I basically imaged a wolf rayet nebula from another galaxy


You still need to improve your pixel peeping to this level
No because then you cant see anything
Im so going to get more narrowband on M 33 this year
I must
There's so many cool ones in there.
now that ive seen that one
im seeing a lot of others that could very well have been made by wolf rayet stars too
M 33 has tons of these stars too btw
NGC 604 has almost 10
i accidentally imaged a potential planetary nebula in M 33 too
this is why resolution is the name of the game for me, above all else

globular cluster on top of a galaxy
guys
this year in the fall
how do we feel about doing a big M 31 mosaic from the bortle 3 site instead of M 33?

btw M 33 has a lot of blue globular clusters
at first i thought maybe it was an artifact of my processing or the narrowband addition
nope
these are just possible to see out in the wild
here's one in the LMC
That idea made hate M31
But I can cover it quite well in 9 pannels
yall gotta bring an RC down here for the LMC
would be an absolute field trip for yall
fr
i already know what all id shoot in the LMC and could get plenty of other ideas by looking at it some more
egg!!!!!
also did u manage to fix the noots weirdness
I fixed the RC's weirdness

the Quattro still has some incredibly minor weirdness that ill address a little later in the future
im going to leave it alone for now because ive done so much tinkering already
oofs
makes sense
the RC looks to be mostly well collimated now at least
i think there's some pretty bad tilt though
makes sense considering the number of times this imaging train has been apart
i wouldnt doubt that something shifted after all that
focuser tilt specifically
i sure the tilt adapter has loosened a little
maybe
yeah
tiny amount of tilt + some incredibly small collimation error
i think ill leave it alone
i spent a collective 4 or 5 hours (being conservative on the estimate) recollimating it

Bit Off topic but whats that Tool u use to See the tilt?
that is the tilt analysis in ASTAP
@slate falcon there's still some weirdness, like reflections, in the RC data
I just remembered i never sealed the primary mirror cell back up
i think that's fine for now
i can fix it tomorrow
its good enough tbh
the gap between the cell and the tube*
there's a minor light leak there
also light can slip in through the gap between the flat panel and the clamp that it holds into the scope with
so it could be from that too maybe
oh and my neighbors installed like 5 or 6 new security lights in their backyard that are about as bright as the sun 💀
that could be it too
eww
yeah 
it could be any number of things
in shape, scale, and appearance, these look a lot like the reflections my quattro had going on
i dont know what could be causing them other than the reducer or the shiny face of the flat panel catching some stray light
it doesnt appear to be in the flats actually
btw i got the sensor a little cleaner


i took the liberty of installing my new 3 nm narrowband filters yesterday
ooo niice
that vignette is only a fraction as bad as it used to be too
somehow everything i did improved the situation

So tonight I am just testing the RC again
i think tomorrow ill plug up the only leak left and then ill start shooting H-alpha tomorrow

on M101 with the new filter
I want to see if Oiii has anything as well, while im at it
ive never done an HaRGB image or an LRGB image of M101
:D
I think ill set the real framing tomorrow as well

yeah there's a terribly subtle reflection
almost invisible
all of these ringing artifacts are technically internal reflections in the starizona reducer
yeah there it is
im just annoyed by the bright bar going up the middle of the image
that's really it
this could even be from the excess light of the moon
50% illuminated moon now
you know
honestly
this isnt too bad if it's their lights causing it

moon is too bright
it needs nerfing
true
could still be the decoupler leaking too tbh
wouldnt be surprised on a night like this
yea
i doubt the 3D printed plastic piece is flush against the metal blocking 100% of the light
and i say that because the background is almost the exact same as when i left it completely unblocked, just not as bad
ah
unblocked on the right and blocked on the left
so it looks like i have a little bit more light proofing to do
i dont mind since i dont plan on collimatimg the rc any time soon ngl
not bad tbh
why don’t you just buy an RC
Too slow for my liking. I want something fast
Oh yeah I discovered this during my loose secondary catastrophe
How'd you determine you had spherical aberration?
REEEEEEE GET OUT OF MY THREAD

reducer
Not faster enough
My rc6 is f/5.3 now. My 71f is f/6.9
my lens is f/5.6
how’s that not fast enough for people
When the center of my field was in focus, the very edges were quite a ways out of focus.
F4 is where its at for me. Or f2.8
The HFR was huge too
Roki glazer
Spherical aberration is an on-axis aberration - that sounds like field curvature
You’d like the new Askar scope
By loosening the secondary collimation screws just a little bit, it brought the entire field back into sharp focus.
F/3.8
but this does sound like spherical aberration
It would be really strange if so because loosening the secondary fixed it.
Have you seen the spot diagram for it?
now thats a steal
I'LL TAKE 20
Its worse than the minicat51
if it’s cheaper idc
wait it's only got a doublet objective...
I’m looking to get either this 50P, an FMA180 Pro, or an SQA55
It has 4, but only 1 SD
Its petzval. It had 2 sections with each having 2 glass lens
You can have a triplet objective with a Petzval design, the Askar F series for instance
Or technically Petzval-like
It’s the same thing
But this has SD glass not ED
I’m looking for a wide field scope so il be following this one closely.
FMA 18 Pro, SQA55, 50P
I’m an Askar Fanboy
Il put some Askar stickers on my RC6 to make it pretty
The 50P has 3x to 4x the RMS spot size on-axis (wavelength dependent)
Well just from looking at the spot diagram, unless it's pretty damn cheap, you'd be far better off with the SQA55
It wont be worth your money
The real-world tests will probably not fare as well as the modeling
Depends the price
If it's like a $300 OTA, then what the hell, I'd get one
I’m thinking $400
Na like $700
That’s the price for an SQA55 so I highly doubt it
The SVBONY SV503 70mm quadruplet, a 2+2 Petzval design with similar specs to the Askar 71F, is $400
What's the joke
it isn’t nearly as good as the 71f lolll
It's a 70 mm f/7 refractor, just a 2+2 rather than a 3+1 layout
Oh yeah of course
But I would hope that the 50F is cheaper considering that the SV503's spot diagram is actually better
It has to be cheaper than a SQA55, and probably more than the FMA180 Pro
This is the fma180 pro
well the FMA180 Pro's spot diagram is at a 2x finer scale, and the RMS/geometric radii are better
I'd take that over the 50P any day of the week if they were the same price
Fma180 pro is $440
that’s why I’m looking at it
cause I want a cheap widefield refractor. And I don’t want a Roki
Field too wide? Or some other reason
Lottery lens
And I’m not a fan of the mounting solutions
Fma180 pro would end up being cheaper since I don’t need rings
Bro... this is a reflectors only thread 
That’s technically an achromat
2 days will be my 1 year anniversary of making dark sky site trips.

This incredible photo being one of the fields I shot then.
but tbh if someone was selling an RC cheap and nearby me with accesories i would buy it
ive been wanting a deep galaxy rig for a while
Galaxies are the best
That is an undebatable fact.
This is my proof.
Nice, I started capturing some Ha of that region yesterday
Galaxies are mid. Nebulae are where its at
Galaxies are awesome
but nebula are better
no
m40 is more intresting than half the bebula out there
sure buddy
im getting 100 hours on m40 for a reason
cause of them galaxy neighbors like NGC 4290?
Guess what galaxies have nebulas in them and globular clusters its literally two bird one target
Why is there a random star in the messier catalog
While looking for another object, messeir thought it was the object
Lmao why not revert it
souvenir
I wonder if you'll change your tune when you get the RC cooking
But I also gotta say
While nebulae take a long time in an RC, it's super satisfying getting close-ups
int?
4 and a half hours, roughly.
no
I hate processing galaxies. The rc won’t change that
And I’m not saying I dislike galaxies, I just prefer nebula
And I plan on doing lots of nebulae with my rc6
My rc6 reduced is more than an entire f stop faster than my refractor lol
@harsh matrix I’m thinking of setting up the rc6 without collimating…. How bad would this be
Not terrible tbh, unless it's way out of whack you can probably get most things working to start
It probably is
Cause when I got it, the mirror was actually moving with any pressure on the focuser / spacers
Primary or secondary?
I fixed it by adjusting a Collimation screw, I thought it was a locking screw.
The seller sent me an Astro-Tech RC6 manual and the screws are reversed lol
Primary was floppy, I also hopefully did a bit of Collimation on the secondary
Either way you'll probably need to have the camera and all set up to collimate it, unless you can collimate with an eyepiece
It’ll probably be easier to do it with a camera
Eyepiece is easier for rough collimation
(and if you need to adjust the mirror spacing, but that's less likely)
But for good collimation a camera is better
So I have hex keys or Allan wrenches, whatever they’re called
How can I make sure I don’t drop it :/
any tips lol?
Don't drop them on the mirrors?
It's not something I've ever worried about tbh
For the secondary yes, but the primary I mean ground
Like mine are black. It’ll be lost lol
I need a handle or something
Honestly I was thinking about something similar and I want to get myself some glow in the dark tape
Ooh that’s a good idea
In my case it was about having some for when I take my scope out with my friends who aren't into astronomy/don't have good night vision skills
Are the locking screws and Collimation screws different size keys?
I can’t remember
Unfortunately, they are
Good point
I guess I only mess with my collimation in light polluted areas so this isn't as big a deal
I actually should get a set of Allen keys because the one issue I've run into is that the focuser extensions don't provide enough clearance for a multi-tool or ordinary screwdriver
That's a much bigger gripe I have
I bought a big kit on Amazon for like $6 and they’re heavy metal
I'm gonna make sure to get a set that isn't black lol
yeaaaa
I just bought glow in the dark tape
Different colors
Il put a small piece next to each type of screw (locking / collimation)
Color code it
Wait is it glow in the dark or fluorescent tape? I've seen some confusing listings
Oh….
I've been trying to see if I can get multicolored glow in the dark tape but that does not seem to be common
Let me cancel my order real quick…
Hey
Guess what
It’s $300 LOL
tbh look at the sv535
lol no
It’s twice the price, and you cant use a filter drawer iirc
wait whaaat
What plate solving method do you use? @frosty shard
I heard PlateSolve 3 works well at long FL
@harsh matrix
ASTAP + D80 catalogue
Oh that’s what i have been using so that works out
@frosty shard any ideas as to the origin of this junk?
The spot in the middle still seems to be a baffling issue but I cant improve on that any more.
Honestly, I can't say...since I have the version with revised baffling I have never really dealt with these kinds of artifacts?

I'm on my own ig.
There's only a handful of things I can try now.
I think the smaller sensor of the 533 avoids these issues.
Like with the quattro, a larger sensor is asking fo more problems.
Maybe it's time to give up on the idea of using a 571 on this scope.
Thought neither of my other cams are free so im screwed.
I fear i have joined Ring of death-club
wats wrong with it
Well thats Just great..
Guess i'll try and ignore it best i can
today was supposed to be first light with the rc6, but guess what arrived? clouds
Do you see the crater?
Always Like that xd
I see yours but not lime’s
crater isnt big enough
Anyways are flats not correcting for that?
Its a Donut in the lower right
I don’t see it
Like entire bottom quarter of the frame.
Yes
It seems like flats should take care of it
They don't
I wouldnt still be having issues if they did.
Lime used flats
It didnt fix that issue either.
I see a very clear pattern here.
How bad is it at the end of processing
You can’t hide it with careful processing? Masks?
You can try
If i dont use Flats its Not noticable i think but once i do its clearly there
But if you get enough integration, it doesnt matter
You will always see it no matter what you try to do.
Tried to hide it by darkening the bg
But i still See it clearly
I don’t lol
its from the rc itself 
yea I get that
But why
I do.
If we knew the answer, I could have fixed it already.
i feel its presence even with my brightness all the way down
What sensor size
Lime has a 533
Yea sadly xd
Ive seen it with both my 533 and 571
What RC
Im at an 8" as well
My 6 had it too
You do have an 8?
Tf
I thought you had a 6
Cool
Yes
8 gang lfg
XDDDDD

Im pretty much running the Same train as brain
brain train
I guess im ripping the apex off once again.
Hopefully that makes a noticeable difference
So you're at native?
Jup
Yeahhhhh, I had the problem at native too.
looks like a ronchi test or howere you spell it
Im at the point in diagnosing the issue that everything i seem to do is making it worse.

i think you should try night sky flats
and see what happens
If it works it isnt worth doing in the long run
Thats why I havent done it
If i was using an OSC cam it would be straightforward
What
The hell
Is a night sky flat
you havent heard?!
no
Do you have the carbonstar rc8?
What an FOV
I have a steeltube one
How new or old?
Uhm good question tbh
I bought it new last August, as for how new it is in Terms of when it was built, i have No idea
What brand is it?
Omegon
Hmmmm
Im not sure when Omegon popped up in general.

That's a mixed bag for sure.
Does the center of the spider look like this? Or is the size of this plate and the spacing of the screws different?
This changed some point recently so depending on what yours looks like, it could date the scope.
Looks Like this (god the flash Made this Look Bad)
Alright your's is a new model
And it matches Brain's
Meaning both you of should eventually see the crater.
Unfortunate.
So model and age appear to be irrelevant.
Very
@runic violet I'm not the only one.

how do u know
My RC8 was made in or after 2017 but not much later.
The Carbonstar RC8, a new model of the GSO closed tube RC's, has that smaller spider with the closer screw spacing. Mine does not. Which means the spider changed some time after 2017.
Lime's RC matches that or the Carbonstar which means that it is roughly as new or as old as the Carbonstar line.
That's how I know.
is there a new model of the rc6?
I have no idea.
We dont even know if anything else changed when the spider changed
The crater in Lime's image suggests that only the central part of the spider changed.
And nothing else.
You shootin'?:)
Subs!! Post a sub
What app do you use for Collimation btw
Is it ASTAP i can use?
I am in asiair mini world, dont know about that
I have build myself a cheap OCAL-ish device, and use that with an app called "Collimation Circles"
I say allign/center everything visually using collimation cap or cheshire, that should get you in a ballpark to start with
You know, as bad as it is, it's also a good thing in a way.
It means that the crater isn't some weird one off issue with my particular model, and it proves to everyone that I'm not making it up or fabricating it somehow. 
I don't use an app, I just use the NINA preview to evaluate the star shapes. But you might find MetaGuide useful
We have similar imaging trains so now I'm concerned...
You should be.
@crisp flower @harsh matrix here's the one bit of evidence I have of the same issue, but this is it. I took this data on a full moon and my flats ended up being bad, so idk if this is really the same thing
I can be confident that this artifact isn't from the mirror at least
Also @crisp flower what focuser are you using?
That's the same issue alright.
Afaik
Probably need to go in farther which means you need to remove another one of the M90 tubes.
I only have 1 m90 tube
And I went in and out all the way
noting
Can’t see any stars either way
Bad flats will make it appear immediately, good flats only delay its onset.
You are never fully liberated of it.
Yeah remove it.
That's 1 too many if the reducer is a 0.67x and you are using it correctly
Did you remove the extension on the back of the reducer or did you keep it on?
Well what happens if you stack without flats?
I havent tried.
Not on the data with the crater, anyway.
Actually I may have
(That'll determine if the issue is due to the flats or the lights)
Hmmmm
Now I dont remember if I tried without flats

I can give it a shot when im home in about 20 or so minutes.
It literally can’t attach to the scope without it
Wait...is the draw tube too long?
Yes
I just realized someone I know may have had this issue
Actually I think it is too long
That focuser has like 90 mm of outward travel which makes it much longer than that when racked in.
Mine is only 90 mm long and racks out to 50 mm max iirc
So what do i do
You could always try without the reducer
So basically my focuser is incompatible if I want the reducer
@harsh matrix What spacers for non reducer
50mm and 25mm?
You could still use the reducer but use it at 0.8x reduction.
To do this i think you need a 25 mm spacer
Since your focuser drawtube is so long, id run with a 50 mm
Do you know roughly how long the body of the focuser is?
Long
90mm draw tube