#Ritchey–Chrétien enjoyers thread
1 messages · Page 29 of 1
I recently got an EAF, kinda have mixed results with it. Convenience is certainly awesome, to be able to focus remotely and without shakes. But I find that more often than not I get a better focus manually compared to AF routine. Need more time with it to experiment with steps etc..
I think I want a 585 cam as a companion for my 2600mc pro. Does that cam make sense with RC6 at 925mm?
The idea is to use it for smaller targets and as planetary (and that would be 1370mm)
I'm gonna do a lot of experimentation and especially with my Bahtinov mask since that's going to be the the most reliable indication of focus
@frosty shard I ordered some 30 foot extension cables that appear durable enough so I can put my rig out in the middle of the grass in my yard.
That way I can get a bit more time on things like Markarian's Chain, anything in Leo, and maybe Orion.
If you want to collab at some point.
Amazon borked up
A while ago I onger an 80ft cable and they sent me a 160ft cable. More overkill than I could ask for.
160ft of high power cable should have cost me about $100
I got it for 40
holy
I think it settled down
@digital nexus Since u got an rc6 just like me, by any change u have a bathinov mask? No cuz i need to order one but i still havent figured out its size
you can set up in the house behind youur neighbours 
Idk the size
I can help with this, what do you need to know?
Dang alr
Okay thanks, i have to buy a bathinov mask for my rc6 since i still focus lets say by heart but idk what size i should buy it cuz in shops they range from a mm size to another, like what matters is the mirror diameter or the diameter of the ota itself?
This is the kind that you want, hope this helps
It just came with my scope, it’s a bit over 6” probably
Ay man i appreciate it a lot, thanks, so basically more or less 16cm
What brand was yours? Stellalyra?
I dont live in usa so idk brands but if im correct thats the one which seems to pay more attention to the customers so they provide quite a bit of stuff w the otas
Was this the ebay guy right?
Yep
I think i saw this too
Gotcha
Its good, you can go for it
My rc6 is GSO. But the mask came with it used, and it’s 3d
printed
Yeah i think tho its gonna be a long road since hes in merica🦅 while in in italy
Ahhhhh alright, mine is too, just rebranded but other than the dustcap
Nothing
Does it even converge lmao
i did continum subtraction
the blue is red, the gray is ir 685 and ir 850
it looks like the blue is hiding behind ir
there's like no detail left from doing that though
there was
ohh, that image i just sent wasnt denoise that way
that was done with grax
mb
o
it didnt damage any data bc i had good enough snr
either grax sucks or you didnt get more than 15 minutes of data
thats an hour while i was still untracked
so 0.35secon subs
i am yet to deconvolve the image too
that's extremely soft data
I am not sure you will get much out of deconvolving it
untracked makes a bit more sense
heres the irgi version
its quite noisy tho
(and was perposely overdone)
Slight Aura-Farm?
that red reached out so far in my shots
nniiiice. It wouldve on mine as well, if i had taken this image earlier. This was pretty much to the end of this spectacle
it has weakened during the half an hour I was outside
i dont know how long i was out but i went to a nearby field so i could see more
just thougth about taking this shot as the scope had been running the whole while annd i wanted to check if ht polar lights messed up the frames
which they did not lol
I've tried to catch them right near orion but I figured i was too late lol
i got that shot wwith some stray green ones
gotta check them the next morning on my monitor lol
Needs more JPEG
Fingers crossed I'll encounter some auroras with my scope, but I don't have a suitable camera atm
@frosty shard clouds and wind but stil got to test it out :D
(red lumpyness is actually nebula)
I hate you
Can't image in –20°C
hah!
get dew heater for equipment
Actually my rig handles it fine, I just can't use my Surface at temps that low
Except polar alignment is hell
The lubricants are too viscous
Also setup/takedown can be painful
oouch
I have -12 -14C now. Yesterday it took my scope over an hour to settle
Settle in temperature?
Hi I'm considering joigning the RC crew
Got any good RC8 recommendation ? Apertura Carbonstar looks sick but what about the mechanical design/included focuser?
First of all, how based of you to join us
The CarbonStar comes with a rack and pinion focuser stock
I haven't seen any baffling issues at native FL with the 8" version, but I have not used a reducer with it
Okay
Does it hold collimation well if not moved around too much ?
I have had to do two collimation adjustments the entire time I've had my scope, one because my secondary mirror was loose. The second was a minor tweak I didn't actually need to do (collimation was pretty acceptable but I knew I could do better)
But I have had no problems with it holding collimation otherwise, especially with my relatively brutal hand carting of the scope to and from observation locations
I've had it for a year now and I've been imaging with it since last May
I have a 6 incher, no complains on any mechanical stability or focuser
Collimation is also straightforward if you use the DSI method; there is no need for lasers, holograms, Cheshire eyepieces, etc. except if you disassemble your scope and need rough alignment to start
The big leagues be callin
You got me convinced..
Yep I had a read at the DSI method, it looks straightforwars
Thanks 
Also recommended accessories: 2" dielectric diagonal and low power eyepiece should you wish to do visual
(I had the Crayford focuser version and I kept that focuser for visual while using the R&P upgrade for the imaging train)
Also my autofocuser just arrived!
Oh so initially it was shipped with a Crayford but then changed to R&P ? Thats nice !
No excuses to not help auric then! Truly optimal
Yup. I prefer the Crayford for visual tbh
Though the R&P is totally serviceable for that
Yeah, but I would mainly image with it anyways
I think I'll make the jump 🙂 thanks for the replies
Do you have a rig already (I assume you do)?
Speaking of collimation, can you help me understand what am I dealing with here? I am getting elongated "flat" stars in upper left corner, which also look like a stretched donuts. Is this a collimation or a tilt issue?
I do have a decent mount (AM5N), but still using a OSC camera and planning to go mono, so that will cost some money
Also using a low FL guidescope, will probably have to go to OAG
Are you using a reducer? If not I am certain this is tilt
I do
If you are I'm less certain it's tilt, but I'd say it's pretty likely
Without a reducer the astigmatism of my 8" RC is sagittal
Do you have an aberration inspector view of the frame?
so that corner, does it need to be pushed more towards ota, or away from it?
I do have a tilt corrector plate, right now its just flush all the way
I actually can't say with the reducer present; all I can say is try both and see which one corrects it
(honestly I'd be trying both at native FL)
Also what is the target
This was M36, but I get this problematic corner pretty much on all shots where there are stars in there. I cant go any more closer to the primary, does this mean pushing the other side out? I've never adjusted tilt before
If I'm thinking of this correctly I think you need to pull out the side with the tilted stars
But don't quote me on this
I might wait for a better weather to do this, don't want to be adjusting and DSI'ing in -14c 🙂
Yeah I made sure to dial in my collimation before it got brutally cold here
I think I'll guarantee myself twice yearly collimation checkups and tweaks, one at the end of fall before it gets too cold and one in spring once it warms back up
Its not even that bad rn honestly, just that corner that's bugs me
crop tool 
nooooo
Bummer
Tbh the focus stability is not that big of a problem with my RC, so I don't mind just triggering autofocus runs every hour or two
reasonable
6min unprocessed livestack right off asiair, I might just leave collimation be for now
Check out the bottom and left spike, i think u are slightly out of collimation tho
How does one interpret a "double" spike?
3/4 spikes are split 
its due to either a bent spike or the collimation being off causing light that hits it to split instead of stay a single spike
you can notice it double easily if you unfocus
The thing is, for a perfect image, the diffraction patterns should be symmetrical by a 180 degree rotation. The fact that it's only doubled in 3 directions likely comes from the tilt
You probably have slightly misaligned spikes, which is not a problem, but you should only see the misalignment in an even number of directions
I think u are slightly out of focus, otherwise it can be tilt, mhm collimation seems pretty okay as i see
Yeah!
I dont really believe it could be tilt u know why, i definitely got tilt in my image but star diffraction spikes are fine
Thats what I was thinking
im gunna find it quite difficult to misalign my spike now 
Every time I have a tilt issue I see it in the diffraction spikes (one direction is split when the other isn't)

What do 8 do though if my tilt plate is flush right now? In other words, I cant get that corner closer that it is
Mhm, idk dude maybe for me is different cuz i swear i have tilt but my spikes are all fine, later if u want i can drop here a pic of the tilt angle and then the star spikes
would be cool
oh, u may have an issue
Do I raise the the whole plate a couple of turns each screw, and then get one corner closer?
Yup
Im doing it asap!
Tnx, I'll try a round of DSI and then tilt once its above freezing point
Judging from the rest of the image I think the tilt plate is all you need to adjust atm
I checked defocused on-axis the other night, looked good
EAF installed
im gunna loosen every screw by a quarter turn when you arent looking 
what are those two side spikes?
sick
as promised the tilt
Mhmmmm for the star i dont have a proper frame that shows it as clearly as the one the other dude sent but i have a picture i took a week ago while i was focusing on a star tho and its this, idk if it can be useful or not, ah btw that halo is caused by the fact that i dont have the uv ir cut filter yet
Look like astigmatism to me. Half of the image is in focus, your primary is tilt. Just need a collimation here 👍
cool spikes, have you made a mirror mask yet?
buh
I took a picture of m101... but I'm not satisfied with it
@tight lodge Well, its better than mine:) its pretty good actually, pleasant to look at. How much int time is in it?
Nope mine is so terrible i cant be bothered to Look for it xD
It turned out to be a tough target for some reason
Main Thing that bothered be on Mine were the Stars (i Had an sct with a dew heater Ring which resulted in wild Star shapes
best I managed so far, about 7h in
Idk... something like 2h maybe?
The rest got absolutely obliterated by Starkink 
hang on, its in NB?
LHaRGB
tnx, I'll keep trying
This was my first attempt. First time with mono rig and pretty much whole new setup
this blue and purple you pulled out looks really nice on it.
I need to revisit it. I feel like I can get it a lot sharper
I should at least add Ha to mine
I tried this last spring but didn't get enough data due to weather.
i thought that was ur whole scope lol
@frosty shard are eaf attachable to gso rct's stock?
also, can you send the link to the collimation guide
Stock focusers are EAF compatible

im convincing someone else to get an rct 
telling them all the pros and cons
@frosty shard I won't know for sure until the first night out, but it could be fixed for real this time.
The left side is new flats, the right side is old.
The change I made was I introduced 3 new knife edge baffles of varying inner diameter and distance from the camera, and the combination of all 3 of these make it impossible for light to skip past the secondary to the camera, even after being reflected by the inside of the baffle tubes.
The interesting things to note about both the regular and DBE'd flats is how much easier it is to see the dust motes in the new flats, and how in the DBE'd flats, a reflection in the middle vanished.
Though the cherry on top is seeing the mirror struts that were once visible in the dust motes vanish from visibility.
That confirmed to me that the issue ive been battling this whole time was illumination from the mirrors and the sky at the same time, I was seeing dust motes get illuminated twice.
This would be the cause of the embossed vignette I was getting too, on both the 571 and the 533.
The fact that the struts have vanished means I achieved my goal, on paper. So it's time to see if the changes are a net positive or negative on the next night out.
Could be a change in rotation causing the struts to look like they vanished
If they are there, the contact was cut by over 50% id say
That would still account for the sky illumination I think
The flats on the left look much more similar to my flats. Is this with or without the reducer?
with the reducer
Really struggling with the process but im in Love with the Details
holy sharp
with a 6" rct right?
8"
the sharpness is really nice imo, but the lum has so many gradiennts its really annoying
aa
sounds abt right
what really annoys me is that m82 is just not in the surveys for msgr so i ccannot use it to remove them (at least it wasnt last time ive checked)
😭
Bane of my existence rn
you need to finish the survey yourself ovc
Not with that fov 💀
I could Go Out andgather more Data, so i can ignore the Processing a little longer
Still work in progress, just 6.3h in, no Ha yet, I think it's my personal best so far on this object
Just some quick data to test a couple things. All together, less than 3 hours data.
is this the rc
what camera
294mm with ccdt67 reducer at .7x
Horse head is 4x5min Lum subs, Bodes is 4x5Min Lum and 3x5Min RGB, Owl Nebula is 1x5Min RGB
@high aspen ... I'm getting really close
Now I have to figure out why is so messy
I might have an idea... but I won't say it
probably the laser/cheap lenses

Oh definitely
But the higher quality laser that I have it's very thermally unstable and it has a shorter wavelength.
The shorter wavelength compresses the fringes so much that they become invisible 
ooof :(
Soooo... I might have to buy an overpriced diverger from Edmund optics. Also find a better 650nm laser

why does it look like a fingerprint
its mine mb
okay
It's a mirror finger print
how accureate are the readings with that fuzzy reading
Bad
DFTfringe simply tells me to kill myself 😭
wtf 😭
The igram is just too messy for a clear reading
Buuut... I can blame myself as well. I handheld the camera in front of the beam splitter 
This was the best purchase
Gives me the ability to have micron scale adjustments with 0 backlash 🤤
woaaa
I am being driven mad. It's gonna be too cold to image for the next week
I still need to get this EAF working
Actually since I'm new to EAFs, got any recommendations for what to do beforehand (e.g. testing in NINA, helpful extensions, sequence modification)
im testing the RC with the new baffles installed
i dont know how well it will go
hopefully it works
it's hard to tell rn because the acclimation to the sub 20 degree weather is slow
i think collimation is seriously off now though
so anything i get tonight will be unusable
yeah it's way out
took removing and reinstalling the primary to throw it out
rip collimation
💀
i think im just going to get an SCT
this sucks
nothing ive done has helped the RC in any way
it's still scuffed as hell
worthless
if flats dont work then i cant do anything with this scope
i think the era of the rc is over
Have you give it a go under dark skies?
yes
ive said before that issues still come up after enough exposure time
the dust motes never fully calibrate out regardless of where the data was shot or how the flats were taken
i have tried again and again to make it work and it chooses not to
this is a dust mote that persisted after nearly 15 hours of lum from the bortle 3 site i go to
i took 2 sets of flats each night and i tried both sets to no avail
this one persisted regardless
same with the vignetting here
both issues im still wrestling with 6 months later
it should be fixed if this was something i could have fixed
but it seems the issue is rooted in tube flexture or the figuring of the mirrors
i have no way of testing or fixing either of those issues myself
so. im screwed
Is this with the reducer?
yes
I'm not 100% certain, but I think that is glow and not reflections.
Hear me out
I'm building an interferometer, and I noticed that the mat grinded edges of the optics, makes them glow
So what I'm thinking is that the optical elements in the reducer are glowing
if that's the case, what do i do instead?
and how would i test that?
I could try to experiment for you by painting the edges in mat black and see if the glow is reduced
i think the edges are already black on this one
not a very dark black but black nonetheless
hitting the reducer at an extreme angle of incidence does make it glow but in this case that was not possible
i had an aperture cut off just in front of the reducer cutting out the edges from being visible to the secondary mirror and the issue was still there
and even though shooting without the reducer is cleaner, there's still major issues there too
heavily denoised to show it
whatever this is
Does the pattern stay fixed with camera rotation?
Damn discord reply
this?

because the answer is no in either case
after i fixed the focuser light leak, the vignette changed based on sky gradient
this example above was without the reducer but still resembles a lot of what im still dealing with
one side of the embossed vignette is always brighter than the other and usually the brighter side is the side with the worse gradient where the sky is brightest
it's uneven
and this pattern changes daily
i dont know wtf is going on there
Do you have some light pollution where you shoot ?
If yes, is there any light you can see directly ? Even a little one or far away ?
oh i am in a firm bortle 8 into 9 on bad nights
there are no lights that can shine directly into my scope
stray light from the neighbors at best and ive tested with the scope aimed away from them, with the same results
Oh, damn that is a lot
so i know it's originating from sky glow
they also dont leave their lights on all night
usually they go out eventually and i dont see any difference when blinking through my frames
you would know by blinking the frames if a light was shining directly down the tube or not because ive experienced it before
Some nights, when it had a lot of humidity, the reflection of light pollution on the sky could give me a halo inside the tube.
So, it isn’t impossible it come from your sky
And I was in a bortle 4 on bad days
The moon is also a problem
Very complicated to resolve the reflections
As I understand, you also designed a pre-reducer field stop? 
I saw that you want a SCT instead ?
Ahah, that is so much worse than RC in any case ! Because you don’t have the problems of condensation right now ahah
Your sky is very bright, so even if you don’t shoot close to them, the glow can impact your images
i did once, it did nothing
what i had in there was another stop of sorts
still did not have an affect
if anything it made things worse
the issue is that sudden drop off in light
im mostly not serious about that
and dew isnt a common problem for me here
i have not seen this
If the baffle are too long, you have a dark vignettage, if it’s too short, you have a light one 😅
The adjustment take some try
i have both
it's light and then gets dark
it's embossed
the vignette should calibrate out with flats if it was strictly due to the baffle tube
This is a weird gradient. It’s like this on the stack ? Damn
my baffle tube is supposedly long enough to be sufficient
yeah that's the stack
i dont understand why it looks that way or what produces it
if you see something like that on a newtonian, the coma corrector is usually at fault
but i had no other optics in place beyond the mirrors of the telescope
no reducer or flatteners
also this is inverse of what im used to getting
if anything, this should have been "too long"
Did you tried with a laser ? To see where the light can pass ?
as i added some knife edge baffles into the baffle tubes to cut out reflections and i think it was slightly over compensating yet for some reason that was my result
I did not, no
but i installed what is by all means overkill hardware to combat stray light
this being the result
Try the laser anyway. You will see where the light go, it is interesting
Yes
yet after flats, this essentially inverts
It is not centered
oh i am aware
it's mechanical in nature
this is my 533 and the sensor is slightly off of center
i dont know why and it bothers me 
it's like this on all of my scopes not just this one
so i know it is this sensor and not the scope
So your flats are wrong for sure. The light is maybe not straight and you have a light path that is not like the sky
it was flat panel flats i used for this test
i keep the panel parallel to the primary
Oh yes that are maybe all the unused lines of pixels for many reasons 
historically ive used sky flats too and those fall short of half decent calibration too
Yes but the light isn’t parallel
whether or not that is the case, it is a hopeless endeavor
since that's entirely down to human error
🤷♂️
a human cannot get the precision necessary for it to be perfect
if sky flats havent worked
That is an advantage normally
then why would flat panel flats work
ive been through this cycle many times, i get false hope when i think of solutions like those you are proposing
Maybe the light pollution
the results have always been disappointing
fallen short of expectations
the last time i used sky flats, i had low expectations, but the result was way worse than i expected
Yes sky flats are really hard to use
Hmmm, that is not so great yes
and this was with flat panel flats
i have had to pick the lesser of two evils and even the lesser is still horrendous
the flat panel was flat across the top of the scope here
yet the result is obviously sub par
i dont think one can get more parallel than that
ive tried shooting with and without a dew shield and flats with that too
no difference
it remains the same
with and without the flat panel, sky flats too
all do not calibrate well
I want to discuss more about it but writing is complicated 😅
Because I have a lot to say and I write very slowly (like a turtle)
you got time cause i gotta go to bed, i can read after i get up
What I see :
- the baffles aren’t good,
- the sky is complicated,
- the sensor is a bit offset
But, I think we can improve everything
Then, good night ^^
I mean, his RCT is quite heavily modded at this point. It's frustrating that the issues persist
Its also not the filters being to small for the sensor?
Iirc He has 2" Filters and the issue persisted with the 533 as Well
So its not the filters either cause I've seen this happen with 1.25" filters
Trust me. In his case, the problem is much more complex than undersized filters
Im seeing it
have you tried placing the panel further backwards?
so it diffuses out a bit more evenly
Cross that off the list😂
darn :c
have you tried a concentrated beam of charged particles?
That would neutron activate the AlO and make it radioactive 
perfect!
Anyone here using this specific combination - RC6, reducer and APS-C ?
Spent a few hours out in this cold trying to re-collimate
I was able to get a good stars across the frame without the reducer, but cant get corners right with the reducer on
sounds right
its a reducer not a corrector.
it just shrinks the field which makes the focus shift hella amplified
So I might be just hitting the correction limit with my reduced 6" and aps-c?
Even with the cropped corner, I still get a bigger fov than native fl, might as well stick with that. Plus f6 vs f9
ayy
not bad still
yea, you may be able to correct it still in post processing
Rn it looks good to me without the reducer on, just a light crop for stacking/dithering artifacts:
dayum
thats decent
My 571 sensor is centered and that has calibration issues too. I'm not sure the offset has anything to do with it.
The baffle tube solution on the scope isn't good enough which is why I added some knife edge baffles to stop further stray light.
It did that and did that really well but ultimately I cant stop light rays from hitting the very thin edges of those baffles, which would ultimately bounce light down to the camera.
I painted them in a super black paint too.
It would have stopped anything if I wasnt in bortle 8/9
Tnx, I think I got the stars rounder than they were before with the reducer, cropped to the same frame. Next step is to put the reducer back on without touching current collimation and seeing what happens. I think last time I collimated, I made a mistake and was trying to do it with the reducer on.
aa
not without blurx 
These RC's can do APS-C really well at native but with a reducer, it gets really bad
let sam the chad do the work 
i can do it without bxt 
what kind of black magic is that
It looks like (to be confirmed) that a slightly cropped reduced frame still has a bigger fov than native fl, and you do reap the benefit of a faster F
making my own model the same way i did with the denoiser 
I wonder whether rc6 reduces better or worse than rc8
worse 100%
8" shouldnt be effected as much
I think reducer goes back on for good, native vs reduced (approximately matched fov):
gimme a corners look !!
i needa stare at dose edges
Round 3, I think its getting better. This is with the reducer, right off asiair
Calling this a day, dont know if I can do better at this point
I can see the physical offset of the 533 actually
I can tell it isnt centered
Will do tomorrow
What
this if it isn't a reducer & flattener
So you don't have apex?
Is what I'm guessing
Also re flats not correcting out: have you sent the problematic subs/flats/bias to anyone
no but i did have that idea last night
So do you have correction issues
i think ill assemble a drive folder and send it to whoever wants to attempt to salvage my situation
With the apex
extremely minor issues
nothing id consider to be unusable
I mean it should have none barring miscollimation
Collimation is very hard to get exact
the apex is a pretty fantastic piece of optics
Either way I had a big problem with light leaks but not flats until I got rid of every single light in my obs + covered every inch of it
We never had a problem with flat correction on that rc8 
I took 5 minute darks in broad daylight and had no light leaks present themselves
i also did the flashlight test at night with the dust cap on
found nothing
So you don't have that problem anymore
Either way the light leaks have nothing to do with the flats
they did
Really?
How so
that's how bad the ambient light is from my sky glow
you could see the shadow of the secondary mirror and spider veins in the background of the images
it was like it was being imprinted on to every image
But that doesn't feel like it has much to do with dust mote correction at the very least
Sure your field is not corrected but I primarily mean getting rid of dust mote shadows
it was in the flats too but since the flats didnt exactly match the lights due to changes in ambient light, it would have differing levels of correction after flats
it shouldn't
that's the idea
yeah I dont understand how it wont correct dust motes
What's your imx571 manufacturer
touptek
but the issue is the same with my 533
which is player one
i have dust mote correction issues with both cameras on this scope
actually the 533 is when i first noticed it on the first night out with the scope
sky flats had better correction but still far from ideal and they did not entrely remove the motes
they left embossed imprints in the image just like light panel flats
but the direction and shape the emboss took changed based on if it was sky flats or flat panel flats, which makes it even more confusing
but
you guys used this scope under dark skies right?
I have too, and this problem is far less pronounced under dark skies
but it will manifest with enough exposure time
But you're at the usual recommended gain?
And you use bias + flats and correct the flats with bias, and correct the lights with both?
they dont recommend a gain lol
i do use the recommended gain on my 533 though
which is 125
that's what ive done for the longest time yes
Well there is one regardless of being official or not
i tried dark flats recently but the difference between dark flats and bias is none
Nah that doesn't help you here
If you send me the data I'm fairly confident I can probably figure out why
ive asked other peeps with it and they all do their own thing with it
I stick to 100 gain and i use high conversion gain and the low read noise mode
Yeah I doubt that's the way to go about it
i mean
The qhy/zwo have basically one setting for theirs
it doesnt have problems calibrating on my other 2 scopes
they do and so does player one
Yeah sure but that's not why I'm aaking
alright i can assemble a folder here shortly
I'm asking for the purposes of funny things happening as a result of choice of gain
Also are your flats at exposures greater than 0.2s or less
I understand that but it doesnt make sense when my other scopes dont have problems with the motes calibrating out
1 seconds or 2 seconds recently
There... can be an edge case
I doubt it though
with my previous panel i couldnt get them slower than about 0.2s
same goes for sky flats
how many light frames do you want?
enough to see the problem
lately one is enough but ill give you more so it becomes obvious
One more tweak, I think this is the most balances I had it with the reducer
Im begging you clean that dust
Flats wont even help with this monstrosity
Yeah, got a new donut while switching things around 🙂
Day 70 of owning an RC6 and being unable to use it
Thats wild
but but
soon.
Guiding is good - OAG working, 120mm guide cam working.
everything is good. im almost ready
its just cloudy and cold. so i dont wanna collimate :/
real
I decided to use a shit weather and a few clear-ish hours to re-collimate my scope and chase one bad corner-it was VERY rough in this cold
its -5F outside and theres 20 inches of snow.
not an option lol
I was wishing I didnt start
We got like 11 inches, still was a pita
Apertura RC reducer from Highpoint
Improving your optical system or photographing the distant cosmos? Experience the full potential of your Ritchey-Chrétien telescope with the Apertura 0.67x Focal Reducer! This built attachment is excellent for deep-sky astrophotography since it shortens the focal length, increasing image speed and widening the field of view. Striking nebulae...
still got split bottom spikey
looks dapper af tho
I was just reeeeaaaly happy to get stars right, didn't have a willpower to start chasing that double spike and probably EFFF something up in a process

Im not a fan of this one.
If you use it at 55 mm of back focus, you get a nasty artifact that is unremoveable.
It looks like this
Left side here
This is this reducer vs the starizona apex at the same back focus and point of focus on the scope.
Using it at the specified 55 mm of back focus causes this.
If you keep the "unnecessary" extension on the back of it, you dont get this problem but you dont get the full 0.67x reduction it advertises either.
Other people have reported this problem with this reducer to HPS and their response was essentially, we know but we aren't going to fix it.
You and me buddy
...maybe I could sell you my reducer, since I have literally never used mine at all
True, but its also double the price for starizona
Correct but you don't get an artifact that consumes the entire sensor.
only if you give me a good deal
What is the edge case that you refer to?
Also, when you refer to a "recommended gain" are you talking about unity gain, the gain setting that produces the lowest noise, the switchover gain for cameras that handle HCG/LCG switching automatically, just the manufacturer's word, or something else?
(I use a Touptek ATR533M, and in high conversion gain, high full well, and low noise mode. I did some experimenting to find unity gain is 200, and defaulting to 100 probably results in nonlinear sensor behavior)
the lowest noise performaance that happens to be at HCG that is the best setting for virtually every type of imaging besides photometry
for the qhy268m its like 56/25 high gain mode
sensors can have odd behaviors both sensitive to flat exposure time and gain, that's why nailing everything down is important
Which artefact are you referring to exactly (maybe not seeing it on a small phone screen)?
The halo eating up the entire frame
This foggy ring
Aahh
I had a CRAZY ring before I extended my baffle, it was absolutely unworkable and no flats would help
That could have been part of the problem here as the RC8's baffling allows light to get in around the secondary mirror and it will always reach the camera if you use a reducer.
Otherwise the stock baffling should be adequate. Except im not convinced and there seems to be nothing I can do about it.
The fact that it vanished either by changing the back focus or by switching to another set of optics entirely leaves me unconvinced of it being the stock baffling as well.
It's more convincing to me that the reducer was the problem
That it interacts strangely with the already wacky light cone.
Sorry valoren can i ask you a thing, does this thing really affect u on the final image? Im not following what u guys were talking abt but my rc6 and the 533 i think have the same behaviour on flats just as yours, this halo u talkin abt is something u just notice on the final stack or only the single cal frame?
This issue is observable in single subs and persists after flats.
The method of flats you use is irrelevant as it will always survive flats.
Isnt it possible that since primary mirror is connected to the drawtube and all the other parts, by having a heavy rig down there the baffle that is where the primary sits is tilted?
U know i noticed that sometimes my images arent corrected too but it seems to be more something related to the dust sposts on the mirror since comparing the weird thing that remains on the image and then the flats the places are identical, i never seen anything like yours tho
What do u usually use to do them? Atp im curious, i heard u did sky flats too but it still doesnt perfectly correct the issue u were talkin abt
I got a different reducer
That apertura one was yikes
I still had leftover dust spots
Btw if you see dust spots leftover in your photos, theyre not on the mirror
Dust on the mirror is far too beyond the plane of focus to see
Ah why dont u suppose it could be that too, like an internal reflection that happens when bright light such as the flats one enters the tube
Theyre on your sensor or filter
hot take, rc's are not worth it under 8 inches of aperture
Prolly sensor window
Woa crazy its even brand new lmao used 2 times since i got it
I dont know what the cause was
But it could be like what @tight lodge said
The edges of the lenses in the reducer could have maybe not been dark enough, causing the optics to glow
It can be too dont exclude it and btw even tho theres this myth that baffles on rcs arent correcting properly the image so u need the 3d printed one its not always true
Just a very bit of light can enter if u dont have the 3d printed baffle but that looks like its not the case
Consider weird reflections between reducer lens and sensor too
I still Cant understand why is the circle u told abt so offsetted from the image
You dont have to be worried about that
It's because the sensor of my P1 533 is slightly offset from center
Physically offset
I can see the offset with my eyes
Oka
How the hell did that happen, arent those sensors on a motherboard screwed in place?
Weird tho…
Well on the RC6 the baffle tube is supposed to be 165 ish mm long to be adequate
My Carbonstar's was 150 mm long
My RC8's is 200 mm long and 175 mm is adequate, by all means it is overkill.
But both scopes got that exact same artifact and only with that reducer
So it does definitely have something to do with the lenses of that reducer
Either theyre bouncing light between each other or theyre glowing or something else, I don't know what, but it's the reducer itself.
Maybe its just an rc6 thing, even tho i never seen this before, neither on mine when i got it and i was literally clueless of everything lol
it was pretty nasty
Well u answered urself then
The 6's never got an extended baffle from the factory but the 8's eventually did
Probably as i said with a strong direct light it bounces off somehow and creates that weird effect
Mine predates the mandatory addition of them from factory but came with a metal 50 mm extension
Ah
Woa
That's not quite like what im seeing on the 8
Sometimes you would get a rainbow after trying to BE it
Nah, I avoid the parts of the sky where that's possible
It's how the reducer interacts with my bortle 8/9 sky glow
I think this issue of the baffle is pretty irrelevant since the amount of stray light that can enter and bounce then on the sensor is pretty much limited, not impossible im just saying i dont really think its that, even because u would have otherwise random reflections on the lights and not always the same thing again and again
I then made a test baffle extension out of thick paper, and boom, the issue was gone
Same
No you're absolutely correct
I just wanted to clarify my own findings through my own investigations of the issue of baffle tube length
Thats wild
Ah u are in bortle 8/9
This could be another hint too
Even tho
I gotta say
At that focal lenght light pollution aint too much of an issue unless u use filters (or correctors),if we arent considering gradient
Yeah i feel ya im tryina understand the issue
I don't understand what was going on myself lol
Mhm pretty bad ngl
But I will tell you
Dust motes not correcting out entirely is a common problem with these RC's
You said you have some that refuse to calibrate out?
I feel you, sometimes i get weird stuff too and i just be like wow i did everything as always whats wrong now
Yeah I flocked, painted, and baffled everything i could and dust motes still persist after flats
Ah never heard abt that
A quick Google search will make it painfully apparent
Very slightly yeah, if i switch between g r b channels expecially in blue sometimes i see like a very very faint shadow of the dust mote
Well atp dont overstress on something u cannot control
If its something w flaws u keep it that way or just live with it
I mean u tried many things, i wouldnt have even bothered 😅
Yup
Blue and lum
Green after those
The less u know and the better u live they say it
Idk weird
I thought it couldve been the faxt that i literally use a white shirt and a shitty graphic table to use it as a flat panel

All this work.
For this.
Can't see it without it dbe'd but theres a fat dust mote in the bottom right quarter of the image
I feel the disappointment man
That didnt calibrate out
Its just like a woman when u try to tell here shes wrong
I did everything i could.
Jk
Crazy
Yeah I mean
I love the scope. Because when it works, the results make me drool.
When i took my frames using my apsc dslr i swear frames were better than urs even by not using any corrector
I sincerely believed I could get it to a point where it was near flawless.
I just see weird fog that literally makes me crash out
It showed promise every step of the way, but after adding some knife edge baffles in the baffle tube, it became clear that there was nothing left to try.
Exactly
Yeah i feel you man
It looks like the flats are over correcting due to a bad offset.
But that's not it.

Idk i noticed that sometimes things just cannot be fixed however u try
A lot of this is high bortle issues.
Id be a lot happier if dust motes werent persisting.
I switched from a stupid achro frac and a manual mount directly to this
Literally had me like i would not see anything except that
I just feel like, gso scopes are basically idk the more u pay the better they are, i thought that paying 600 bucks for the rc6 was all i had to do to image but guess what, u need to swap everything almost except the mirrors if u are lucky ahahahahahaa
It is what it is
Probably ur bortle doesnt help either
I did the same.
This scope shot all of these incredible photos. But the majority of the broadband photos were under dark skies. It wasnt even flawless there.
I tried to make the doublet work but I was so fed up with chromatic aberration that I couldn't take it anymore
Crazy unlucky
Yeah i tell myself the same, in 4hrs i noticed that the shadows of the dust motes on the mirror like duplicated ahahahahahaha

Thats crazy somebody professionally ill as me ahahahahaha
Yeah hence why im done just dealing with it.
It will get much worse with the more exposure I add.
Exponentially so from home.
Tell the truth u were waiting for this moment to show me the pics
Except all jokes those are very good
I was not but those come to mind when I think about the disappointments with the scope
I bought the scope to image the pillars of creation and i did w the dslr but well, u know
Wdym
My issue is that probably im crap at post processing lmao
Idk if 8hrs of stuff should look like this..
It seems okay
I feel like there could be more of it
Looks like collimation is out.
Fr
Im extremely particular about the collimation of my RC
Oof i hate it
To the point that I decoupled it just to avoid astigmatic stars from the mirror sag
Also 8 hours of data from an RC, especially in bortle 8+ will look pretty rough.
U did good at least u tried everything
But are you OSC?
Idk like a tip hahahaahahahaha
What how
Like..?
Triffid looks amazing
Ah
Yeah definitely
Yep 533 mc
Maybe not but your stars look funky
I see no issues w collimation idk
I just cooked them lmao
Wait where
O
Thats another reason why it's underwhelming.

These RC's get insane once you get mono.
You can cheat the signal a lot with luminance.
mono itself is just really good
Ah okay, no maybe thats because my guiding lately aint being the best, im a bit experimenting w cable management so, my average is 0.8”
WDYM CMON I BOUGHT THE CAMERA FOR CHRISTMAS 😭
Life gets disappointing very easely lol
Nah OSC from light pollution on an RC6 is pretty rough.
Yeah but i have no money bruhhh
I did it for a while.
If i even pick the mono i just cannot make it
This was 4 hours of data i believe, from bortle 3
I get that, very understandable, but you should know it has its limits.
Im in bortle 5
Try to shoot for 20 hours minimum per broadband object
Not in tokyo
Okay then definitely go for more data per object
Yeah, these stars are tilted a bit. Could be tilt or collimation
Dammnn thats nice i think i found somebody as me
8 hours isnt very much and is even less for OSC.
It was gonna be my next target
I know that but i got it since i wanted to make the big step from the dslr to the dedicated camera
Heh welcome to the club 💀
If i pick mono i need another 300 bucks for filterwheel and lets not talk abt filters
20hrs? Ah
Silly me i thought 8 were overkill
Definitely not
Go for as much as possible
8 is like nothing.
I think tilt since i got the stock shitty crayford focuser
I went for 31 hours of broadband on M33 this fall
From bortle 3
Realistically there was no good reason to do that
Okay
But the benefit was that I resolved a goofy amount of low magnitude stars in the galaxy.
And I didnt have to denoise the luminance
It was totally flat
No new it started to be like that after aknowledging the existance of female sex
have you used a laser to check?
Okay then ill do better
Oh absolutely
That focuser is a horse turd
Ok guys thanks for telling me im a disappointment i get it
And practice post processing
Practice practice practice
From bortle 5 you can get infinitely better results than I can from home
Well i wish i had bortle 3 next to be
Best theres here is 4
This is about 40min on bodes as I was just testing some stuff. 5Min unguided subs LRGB
My lum had some calibration issue but I was taking down the camera next day anyway so oh well
It's 90 minutes away 
I can only go once a month if im lucky
Hey u know however it goes it still comes useful sometimes, u know experience
Just siril to check it and theres i can assure you that
Vel, what rc you got?
Believe me the screw under the drawtube broke the pastic piece that idk protects the shaft where the 2 wheels move around
I need the first 350 bucks to buy a new focuser for sure
After that whatever yall want
So u live natively in b8/9 but u have the possibility to go better if u want
Lucky…
TPO RC8
Sort of
Depends on my work schedule too
Which, being in retail, could be extremely variable.
I am happy that there is a place close enough to go for a weekend though
However, it hasn't been bortle 3 since like, March last year
Only the first and second trips were believable
I got back at the hobby cuz i finished highschool this summer and got into medschool
Second one I measured the SQM which came out at a firm bortle 3
Since lessons start again in march sfter that ill be out agsin
Every trip after that has been bortle 4 or 4.5 due to bad transparency
Idk till when so im lowkey sad abt it
The tradeoff about that site is extreme humidity, regular high clouds every time ive gone, and rarely consecutive clear nights.
Yeah it can happen
I have to be prepared to toss 25 to 50% of my data when I go.
I live in extreme humidity too
Always fogs up here
Btw same
Literally same thing
Its been over a month of continuous clouds now
In 1 whole month 2 nights of imaging
Ah well im going to go back to uni in the fall so
Im a bit paranoid abt it so i just go outside every hour to check w my own eyes
Once that happens, my time under those skies will probably be over for who knows how long
Thats the not so good part about it.
U got a bit extra time than me
Same
Idk when ill be again around here
Yes and no
I need to study in depth before i go back
Need to dedicate my time to that and not travel
I was just thinking abt that
Eh same thing
I have physics exam the 12th of feb
Ofc guess what 2 weeks before exam only a stupid aah as me couldve gotten appendicitis lmao
I may be getting operated tomorrow
Hope i die lmao hahahaahahahahaha
hello hallo halo
Lil update im alive
I went to hospital and did some exams but nothing came out lol, it may be no appendix actually
I gotchu (once the temperatures exceed –10 °C here)
what scope?
Apertura RC6 @ F6
ahh man of culture I see
I aslo have one
do you use a ccdt67
cc6?
classsy cassy
nice! there are high F right, like 11 or 12?
I use apertura's 0.67 reducer
that's 2600mc pro
so it was appendix
love the detail/resolution on the spiral arms
that where I am now
remove the secondary and it becomes f3
spend an extra 1k and it becomes f2.9
corrected to full frame
you can "RASA" it?
Why would you choose to approach glory and not actually achieve it
lololol
wait has someone actually RASA'd a GSO CC
what scope also mono?
Our AG X0.95 Wynne corrector is very easily and efficiently used on many different sizes of paraboloids from the smallest up to large, 500mm mirrors. We illustrate this by displaying 8 options, 4 different mirror sizes with 2 popular imaging focal ratios for each. If you have a mirror which differs from any of these, please…
it can also be used for class casses if you remove the secondary
Well there's a big issue I see with trying to do this: the light cone shape
why would light cone shape change
If you RASA a classical Cassegrain, the focal plane will be forward of the secondary mirror
And so you can run into stray light issues if you don't put it a lot of effort to baffle the sensor externally of the OTA
wel yea
On top of that, you may not get any benefit of a wider field if the internal baffling cuts off the light cone with the aggressiveness needed for an f/12 scope
we will see in a few years 
Not to totally dissuade you from trying, but you may have to account for these limitations
Ray tracing will help
planed on donutwory
I do wonder if attempting to convert an RC in this manner would get you better results
The trade-off being that you'd need a different corrector
No, was osc and Astro tech rc6
damn, nice image
okki :3
It should come out looking like this but with more diffuse signal since it's not the full set.
Dont be deceived by it, looks fine until you run a DBE, and a little bit of noise reduction, reapply STF, and then problems start to show.
@frosty shard thought his was my image for a sec lmao
He scared me cause he processed it so similarly
Framing is quite a bit different
So it isnt mine
Okay perfect
Rc6?
Not really idk its a weird thing, every damn department head looked at all the things i did and told me i got no appendicitis
Think it more like something very close, phisically to the appendix that has its symptoms too but it aint
Its an irritation of the intestine close to that, precisely the ileum should be
Tho now im there and ill keep being here for another night lmao
That's good, right?
Depends, if it would be something u can say ok the u got this this and this so u have to be operated such as appendicitis well, 30 min on operating table and ur done w everything, since this aint that ill keep being in pain and have fever for idk how much long so it depends
If ur goal is okay im happy im not being operated then yeah, if ur goal is i hope pain gets away then this aint really changing much
Oh true 💀
Yesh
Lemme check if tonight was a clear one
I lost signal because of this💔
No okay luckly its terrible the weather here its being on streak this shi
Prolly the most worrying part is that i have to study for the exam
Not the thing i have atm
Yep
After three months I finally have enough weights to not make it so front heavy and the right adapter for the camera! Finally 😭😭
Ok, I might sound brutal, but it's better to get operated and have the appendix removed early.
If u got appendix inflamed then yeah
But i dont
I just have the fever and pain in the same area but all the damn exams i did till today proved the opposite
Would u be operated knowing that if u remove that theres no assurance the pain and everything w it goes away?
Thing is, i have some of the things related to that but whatever i did and tried gave opposite results so there isnt really a proof saying ok u got that so its a weird situation ehm
If I have a filter drawer sitting between the reducer and sensor, is dust on a filter close enough to cause donuts/motes?
Yeah it certainly can
Yeah
But it won't be tight
It will be diffused
Tnx
should look like this after heavy DBE and denoise
@frosty shard 
I saw that a little while ago. Do you think you might upgrade?
on an RC, probably not?
for my quattro?
yes
yes
Unfortunately I think I'm going to have to abandon my Heart Nebula project
I really need the integration time on some different targets
And that's very hard to come by at the moment
This was 13 hours 20 minutes...f/8 on a full moon moment
yeah