#building a dso setup (prob super exp)
322 messages Ā· Page 1 of 1 (latest)
Maybe spent 150⬠extra for the Uranus C Pro Version... And consider the small Fov. (I want to buy also a Cam with the Imx585 (750mm))
c6 + 585 will require very careful guiding, not sure how well the heq5 can cope with that
Will, but hey, The HEQ 5 hasnt failed me so far with the C8 and 3.8um pixel size so i believe in it at 900mm with 2.9um
Plus if needed you can always BIN2X2
I hope it does work, maybe belt modding it would help in case it doesn't
Is ist able to Bin, because 5.8n Pixels would be nice to use with that fl.
Can it do binning? And would the Pixel size be 5.8 than?
Pretty sure all cams can bin lol
But i would never use it, why, i mean my Cgem does not have like 1.7 error with 6kg of gear, why would it.... š
Its not always needed, but if guiding isnt good enough or your oversampled, then BINNING is good
And especially with the terrible seeing in middle Europe
What's the difference?
Cooling, makes such a difference
So I need another cable for it?
Probably yeah, a 12v power cable
I'm screwed
i'll look into it in the future, not now
Do I need an adpater for the OAG
And is the asi220mm an ok guide cam for the OAG
You can, but BINNING while imaging just seems easier tbh lol, binning is good if your very oversampled, which with SCTs are very likely to be oversampled as the typical pixel size for SCTs is around 6.0um and the Uranus C is 2.9 lol
Hopefully its good, normally parents have 12v power around ngl lol youll need a adapter possibly, if so i can help with that if youd want, and im assuming you mean the 120MM? yeah, its not amazing, not sensitive but its fine for a guide cam, i use one too lol
220mm
First Light Optics - Suppliers of Astronomy telescopes, binoculars and accessories from Skywatcher, Celestron, Meade, William Optics, Atik, Imaging Source, Starlight Xpress, ADM, Moonlite, Catseye, Hutech and others.
I like in a HDB I practically need another power bank
Damn, is it new? never seen it till now lol but yeah seems like a really nice guide cam
Which one
Depends what threads the reducer etc uses
I might do it w dslr and uranus c
Can I just use a synscan controller on the eq mount
and just do like 3 star align
You can, its less accurate than platesolving though
and youd still need a cable to plug the mount into the laptop for PHD 2
If you mean for tracking accuracy, then no, guiding is essential no matter the mount lol, especially with small pixels and high focal lengths
PHD 2?
Yeah, the software to guide, PHD2guiding
you can bin but you cant unbin
shoot unbinned
Still, its just easier to shoot BINNED, plus if your oversampled anyway, it doesnt make a difference
What would decon do? lol if its over sampled, just means having soft stars etc, your not actually gaining any detail from it, just making guiding harder for yourself
Also itās barely oversampled
I thought like NINA or sum sht
Still much better sampling with BIN2x2 at that focal length for āokā seeing
Youād get PHD2 and connect NINA to PHD2 then control it through NINA lol or just use PHD 2 without NINA
what a confusing world we live in
Lol PHD2 is great though
i'm confused af rn
but alright
so
i need an OAG (fck knows what thread, adpaters and where to put it on)
Need to learn how to do NINA, PHD 2 and get used to setting up the set up (will be a while lol)
still thinking about transportation
NINA and PHD2 will be fairly easy, you can get help from people on here, watch videos, and just look around on it and learn something lol the OAG (if you got ZWO OAG v2) wouldnāt need adapters likely, as Iām pretty sure the Celestron Reducer is M48 threads (same as the OAG). Transportation is fairly easy, especially if your using a trolley, or putting it in a car or something lol
hm
I might just do the disassembled trolley method
It works so I donāt see why not
I will def get questions on it lol
@acoustic rover This might be expansive try to get a hyperstar to make it f2 for wide field
nope
It's expensive
@tardy nacelle changed my mind
not gonna use uranus-c for dso
gonna pop over to my dslr instead
@acoustic rover Iām gonna clear up what that guy has said, the Uranus C would put your FOV the same as the C8 with APS-C sized sensor, slightly tighter so youāll have a very identical FOV to me, you can shoot a lot of galaxies, planetary nebulae, starclusters, and the Uranus C is amazing at planetary. The point of the HEQ 5 pro was so DSOs was a possibility, and you can use the C6 and any other scope youād ever plan to put on it before getting into 10ā RC and almost home observatories level. With the Uranus C, you can shoot loads of DSOs with the C6, thereās alot to shoot, plus if you ever got like a 250mm refractor, youād have a nice FOV for nebulae, you can always keep using the DSLR and C6 for DSOs though, just Iād 100% recommend modding it, otherwise itās gonna be really difficult to shoot nebulae with
But if I mod the dslr, it's permanent no?
Cos I still need it for normal photography
You can get a clip on filter, the Autofocus on lenses wont work though
Yes
tf
If you remove the filters inside your DSLR, it will ruin the autofocus feature
oh oh
You could always get a cheap, modded DSLR for astro, and keep that one for normal
Id buy a pre modded one, just be alot easier lol
2nd hand shop is shit here ngl
Could always ask for a special request when buying a cam? or if theres a cam shop near by to you, ask them to do it for you
You can do it at home, but it takes a little while (and when i did it, it caused tilt)
true
I suppose I could ask the canon singapore shop to mod something for me
Yeah, im gonna have to find somewhere to fix my tilt for me, or get a tilt plate lol
a
Does the camera MP play a huge part
If you got it modded by a shop, you most definitely wont have the issue
Like 18mp vs 24mp
The amount? not really, just the pixel size
pixel size.. hm
Yeah so 18mp (Saying the sensor is the same size) means the pixels are like 5.6um but the 24mp would be like 3.9um
For a SCT, 5.6 is actually pretty good, but for a refractor (in the future) it wont be great
hm
what pixel size should I look for a frac
Like 3.5um or smth
anywhere from 1.9 to 3.9
Refracs because they usually have shorter focal length, need smaller pixels
The Uranus C is nice, it uses 2.9um
Or something like a 178MC, not sure if DSLRs actually go that small
Ic
Prob not
I know DSLRs go to 3.5um
Like 3.7um
Looks pretty good yeah
btw more shutter count = more worn off right
Uhh maybe? tbf DSLRs have like 250.000 so it shouldnt run out any time soon
especially for astro
it has below 10k
That's a shit ton
Uhh, you sure thats not how many pictures its taken?
nope, that's why i'm asking you
Because the 80D is normally 100.000
Which means it can take 100.000 images before it cant anymore
Shutter count is how many it has i believe, 10.000 is quite small for a DSLR tbh, would last you if your doing long exposures though
yeah I'd probably do longer exposures
Do I still need a OAG for a frac?
Or do I need to change?
You can use a OAG for a frac yeah, a guide scope is better for refractors though
Youd use the OAG on a SCT instead of a guidescope, only because it corrects flexure, commonly seen at like 800mm and above, where if you guide with a OAG, you wont get it
so I also need a guide scope?
Itll be easier to guide with for the frac, but it definitely isnt required if you got a OAG
Which works better
Guide scope works better for frac, OAG works better for SCT, they both do the exact same thing, the only different is that the OAG will correct flexure for the SCT, the guide scope wouldnt correct flexure for the SCT
Alright
I still have like 45 questions lol
Do I need a specific adpater to attach the dslr to the reducer
cos like. Confused af
And those this work
No
Generally just donāt use a tiny sensor on a high focal length scope
Yes⦠Iād best recommend checking CCD suitability calculator
Itās barely into blue
Sure. You can do what you like, not what others can
Itās still perfectly centered with binning
Who cares if itās centered
Generally means you are more safe and not having any chance of loosing details or trailing stats due to bad atmospheric conditionsā¦.
Binned itās like 5mp
Also quick fix: bin in post
If seeing is good and tracking is good you wonāt have to drizzle
If your lucky imaging and have very good conditions sure youād have to drizzle, but when will you be lucky imaging with a colour cam, and under great seeing when the planets are out
Only good reason to bin is if you have 2gb of storage
You can bin but you canāt unbin
Ok, believe what you like, but Iām not gonna argue with you, if you want traily stars because atmospheric conditions suck, sure go ahead, sure you can āresampleā in processing, not everyone uses pix or ps, using a SCT personally I know that even under good atmospheric conditions, binning still does better, stars are nicer and guiding is easier
Stars are the same if you bin or not
Not true
Guiding is the same if you bin or not
Not true also
How is binning on your main camera going to affect guiding
Not saying itās affecting guide directly, Iām saying guiding doesnāt have to be 0.2ā just for round stars
Guiding doesnāt have to be lower than what the resolution limit is, just because you have smaller pixels
Drizzling is fake tho
Iām not sure why you have such a big problem with binning, itās just making things easier while imaging
easier in one aspect and that is storage
You lose detail that drizzling canāt fully recreate
?? So drizzling is but binning isnāt?
No
Binning you are adding
Drizzling you are approximating by looking at the surroundings
I thinks
Ok, sure say atmosphere is calm and you have the best possible guiding, sure donāt bin, you might get a tiny bit more details, or non, because your resolution limit stops you getting more details
Drizzling is basically the opposite of binning, splits 1 pixel into 4
No but your not physically able to get more details anyway
Smaller pixels just make guiding harder and stars softer and more likely to trail
It really isnāt, itās proven
With smaller pixels your guiding does have to be more precise, otherwise trails will occur because your over sampled, if your resolution limit is 0.6ā and your guiding is 0.5ā thatās good, but because your over sampled, your guiding more needs to be 0.3ā and you canāt get it that low, therefore causing trails
@ivory ruin @unique ocean when the Atmosphere limits the view to like 2 arc seconds, why shouldn't I bin, it saves space and reduces noise.
Im saying binning is a better idea for sampling, they think resampling in processing is a better idea
In Astro most times the pure Resolution isn't the problem, sharpness is....
But still, wouldnt it be generally better to bin to get better sampling, and make guiding easier, its not like staying oversampled actually gains any extra details, just makes it harder on yourself for no actual benefits lol
Apart from lucky imaging
Yes of course, and even if you have perfect Guiding, if your not living on a Mountain in the Desert, it is likely that the Atmosphere is the Bootleneck.
Exactly, its not like its doing any good lol and yeah the atmosphere is the limit usually, kinda sucks cant lie XD
Tbf 1.6 is pretty good lol
Best i have is 0.7 mostly 1.2, don't know about my Guiding because i can only do 30s subs
Damn 0.7! thats actually really good tbf! barely get below 2" here lol
Where you from?
Austria
Nice! heard the mountains are nice there
Yes, but i live as far away from them as possible in Austria XD
Ah damn XD
But because of the relative small scale this isn't to important, currently i am in the Alps, and also have my Equipment there, but š§ļøš§ļøš§ļø
Yeah, nice! hopefully the weather will clear up for you! weather this summer has honestly sucked so far XD
This summer, you mean the hole Year XD, where are you from when only your summer sucked
XD well tbf had some good nights during february and march lol im from uk
I was once for two Weeks in Ireland, it rained every 30min for 15min the hole two weeks
XD yeah thats typical weather lol sometimes itll rain without there being any scheduled rain ngl
Currently its raining with a thunderstorm warning, if we are lucky it might actually thunder for once lol
Apart from the rain in the alps, how is it?
Everything is so green. Especially because i was on Vacation in Egypt bevor. But for bathing in the beautiful lakes, it might is a bit cold.
update
80ED
EQ5 Pro
2" L-Ultimate
9x50 to guide scope (asi 120/220mm for guide camera)
Modded canon 80D
The l-ultimate is useless for most people Imo, too expensive and too narrow bandpass
Unless you meant the l-extreme
F7.5 is ridiculously slow. Youāll struggle a lot in bortle 9.
You need all the speed you can get
what
For the 80ed
said wrongly yeah
Unless you have a reducer, but thatās only slightly better
Yes
hm
How about the redcat?
f2 iirc
Sharpstar scopes should be cheaper for you. Whatās import costs from China like?
Yep. Light magnet.
no idea
hm
china?
lmao
Get from this guy. Based in China and can get the same scope significantly cheaper
Yep
damn imma be broke lol
the first one.. hm
Iād rather the roki
F2 is pretty fast ngl
That thing isnāt the best. Itās quite slow. But decent optically.
roki isn't good?
Nah the 180
do you own the roki/know amy good example pics of people using it
Any*
I have it yes
Look for pictures from me in #deep_space_pics
Doing some quick image searching the fma180 looks about the same or slightly worse than my Roki.
Of course far slower
Alright
holy shit
But the 135 FL is fixed no?
and how would I guide
like idk if OAG works, or do I need a whole new guide scope
Yep itās not a crappy zoom lens
Guide scope. OAG is a bit silly on a setup like this.
Would the zwo package work?
Yep
alright
yet another question because I am paranoid
how am I going to put the guide scope on the roki itself
and is the eq5 more than enough (tryna save money so I can maybe go down to eq3 pro)
Redcat 51 ring set
Or astrodynium ring set ideally
Or the same thing but you print it yourself for free
i don't got a 3d printer sadly
alright
Can't find it on flo
damn alright
still doesn't have it 
Get the redcat ring maybe
well shit me
do I like get the handle, put the guide scope on it
never set it up but i think so. See how others are doing it.
alright
yeah they put the handle on it
1 more issue
what adpaters do I need to put the filters on it
Using the Uranus C right?
M42 filter draw. From ZWO. It will also say something like āM42 filter drawer for Canon EFā
uhm
wait let me pull up fov calculator
still questionable
@acoustic rover A good 135mm and Uranus C would also be a good comby, and you can still use it with your C6...
Or buy Hyperstar for your C6
note i did have halo issues with the uranus and the roki and antlia alpt.
they were gone with the 533mc
hm.
@acoustic rover Do you already have a C6, and Heq5?
so this is for canon dslr?
C6
either canon or nikon mount roki
ok
So a Hyperstar could be considered
HEQ5 no
@acoustic rover Don't have real live experience but with Hyperstar and Uranus C you would have still a nice Fov for Nebula. And with just the C6 nice for Pl Pl Nebula and Galaxies
@acoustic rover If your ansure, biggest question is, what you want to shoot.
well
Generally everything
cluster, nebula etc etc
Well in that's case...
I smell a redcat 51
alright then
Are there any of these things that have been considered in this thread for sale used near you?
currency is sgd
šI thought this that this one new was cheaper.
that is a very confusing sentence