#The AZ GTI Forum
1 messages ยท Page 2 of 1
the trick was to turn off backlash compensation in PHD2 and turn it on in GSServer
Interesting. I may try that with my EQM35. DEC is pretty perfect on it though. But a fair bit of backlash in RA...
I am using EQMOD at the moment but may try GSS
there's a video on their website on how to tune it
2mins of bubble with way too much light pollution. It's not even proper dark yet ๐
tempted to stay on this target all evening but not really got the reach to do it justice
dumbell rather ๐
M27 is supposed to be really good in Dualband
The same image but without the dodgy flats. looks to be a much cleaner stacked image file.
guess which idiot forgot to turn his dew heaters on?
Bravo @rugged jackal! Looking forward to seeing your next image with calibration frames!
Whopppsie! It is very Humid out there tonight!
Looked a little dark so pulled some more out of the histogram
I think I recovered it. dew heaters on, 10 secs with heat gun to demist the lens
Been there myself and also forgot to remove the Bahtinov mask! good you receovered it, having a hair dryer helps
wow! well done @low mural you certainly can make a silk purse out of some pig's ear thingy, hahaha, no well done and thank you ! This image was stacked with the darks and bias frames as the temp matched but I discarded the flats. I am gonna start fresh, clean everything then take my lights and then carefully build a library of calib frames for the current temp.
No imaging for me - clouds every night since Saturday morning.
hmm my focus has been going off all evening. I thought it was due to guiding, but I've had to just go refocus. It was quite a way off ๐ฎ
it was perfect a few hours ago
I usually keep my flats for a few nights and then retake them. Bias can be kept for about 1-2 months. Darks I would do every time. If you are worried about doing too many at the end of the night. Take like 10 in the middle of your imaging session. At least then if you dont have time to take the rest at the end of the night, you have some! If you are taking 30 second subs then it will only eat 5 mins out of your imaging time
Perhaps the temperature fluctuations? I know the 50ED focus can slip sometimes
yes deffo temperature IMO
here's how bad it got
that dip in the middle is where I refocussed. after that was getting sharp images
notice it's still trending upwards after that though, so getting colder as the night went on, focus creeping again although not as bad as before
I think I might refocus every 0.5deg or something in future
I usually refocus every 45mins to an hour. If only an autofocuser was available for the 50ED ๐
that's something I shall be doing now
so I had to dispose of an hour of data from last night but still had 1 hr of good data. Wish I could work out how to get rid of this purple fringing on saturated stars though
In this very basic video, I will show you how to remove purple star halos in GIMP for Astrophotography
Download GMIC https://gmic.eu/download.html
๐ Support the Channel ๐ช
๐ค Become a member https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRxDxlGtGTlUf6b3qeU0y1g/join
๐Buy gear via this link: https://bit.ly/3trCb8O
#astrophotography #photoshop
star fringing fixed
lovely image, well done
only 57mins of data too. I'll add to it at some point
might try duo-band filter next time
What is your telescope and it's reach?
Nice detail for 57 mins. Pop that duo on and that should reveal some more Ha and Oiii data! This was my completed 7 hour image of M27.
The halos dont bother me too much as it brings some colour into those hot stars but carefully adding them back in to the starless image in arcsinh stretches does help
Really nice, wow... lovr the blue
If I had dualband, i may have got out the fainter details on the edges and some more Ha in the centre. Maybe next year!
This hobby is very challenging clouds, cold, light pollution, technical know how needed, patience, etc, but incredibly challenging on the wallet, ยฃ300 for a filter! ยฃ2000 for a cooled camera! and all the little bits to put it togther. LOOOL
Tell me about it! I guess its one of the pros of my autism. I don't care how hard it is, how long it takes or how expensive it is. I am obsessed with the hobby and nothing is getting in my way
Then again, money is getting in the way 
I like the fact that it is hard, taking my time to learn so I can keep doing this for a long time but I do get despondent when nothing is happening #, clouds have got in the way, far too much for my sanity & patience level, Saving up to buy a proper astro camera, so yeah that too!, what would you get in my shoes?
I didn't use Starnet on mine this time. I liked the look of the stars without it.
It's same as AstroBenn - an Evoguide 50ED. I think it's 242mm or something like that. My sensor is 7.9mm x 4.5mm so quite a bit smaller than your APS-C. That results in more "zoom"
Im guessing you havent got a field flattener for the 72ED? I would get that. It would greatly improve your image and platesolving results
I do not have a field flattner, have you seen the prices? I am guessing manufacturers etc are out to fleece us. I read up on it now that you said it is important and it is important, so that is next item on the agenda (on one of) I am thinking about the OVL or second hand - sorry preloved ones.
StellaMira 2" 0.8x Reducer / Field Flattener with M48 Adapter
I would consider a reducer. It will make your scope faster allowing more light ti come through
Will also benefit you when you get an astro camera as your sensor will be smaller and the reducer increases your field of view
ENS optical might be local to you. Might be worth popping in?
ENS is 10 mins from me - wow. You know everything.
This is interesting - looking at the address and opening hours - They close at 3pm, do not open on Sat/Sun - they really really do not want a dodgy pseudo astronomer looking for a cheap reducer coming over! loooooool. Viewing by appointment! Strewth you'd think they serviced the royal family. haha. But that is a great shout - but I need a M42 adapter I wonder if I need an appointment.
Stalker alert ๐
I knew they were in Birmingham haha. Wish I had a shop like that near me!
Yeah they are probs a warehouse somewhere rather than a shop! Maybe give them a call. They seem like they know their stuff so may be able to advise you ๐
Camera a bit hot this evening! 26 degrees
Good shout again, I'll call them and find out.
any suggestion re targets tonight?
I am tempted to try the Pelican again?
Anywhere around there is good to shoot. Worth noting your camera will filter out a lot of the red colour but you will get some data! Have you got some data on pelican already?
I was messing with exposures etc but it was rubbish as clouds rolled in
so I simply discarded them
there were only 10 shots
Yeah I would say go for it. I would centre more.at the north american nebula purely because that area is brighter
Caldwell 20 being the NA and IC 5070 the Pelican
Or we could say Caldwell 20 being the NAN! 
I always type north american rather than north america ๐
my remote connection is being a NAN
relying on chrome remote
using the cls tonight
fair warning - another stupid question coming up:
can I use the imaging section in NINA to take my Darks - just loop it, take the desired exposures and save them in a folder automatically? this will save them as FITS format files?
or should I stick to the previous method of simply taking 20 RAW format frames from the camera?
Yes this will be fine!
No it would be better if it was all from NINA. Easier for you too!
Ive finished my Sadr region for tonight and now taking my darks. I will then refocus move onto M16 and take 30 mins of data.
Look at all the hot/cold pixels! That is why darks are important.
if only we could afford a cooled camera. loool.
though NINA can help me with the darks I will have to use the camera native format for the bias as NINA imaging does not go to fastest setting on my sony - 1/4000
I can actually capture the bias and darks from the PC uisng Sony remote imaging software!
I know right!
Yeah well bias you can still with a few weeks if not months ๐
very nice
Very nice Hubble palette .
just taken my Evoguide 50ED apart to see how the focuser works. There's 0.3mm of slack inside that I think can be taken up with a washer. I've ordered a 0.2mm so let's see if it improves things
if it does, I'll try to get it perfect and then make a DIY EAF ๐
Braver than me!
If you get something going, you may have a customer

it's pretty simple actually. There's literally 3 parts. The rotating bit has a 3mm flange that sits inside a 3.3mm groove made by the other 2 parts screwed together. That extra 0.3mm is what's causing the backlash. If I can take some of that out with a washer, we'll be onto a winner
just ordered a MyFocuserPro2 circuit board. Could only get a pack of 5 actually. Grand total, delivered, ยฃ2.77. I'll keep 2 of them and ebay the rest ๐
These clouds are killing me, been itching to image for a while now and cannot ๐ญ also 1100 text in this chat letโs go you guys ๐
1102 now
Yeah I just set up and a haze came in. No good when shooting low to the horizon. The UK has had some surprisingly good nights the last few weeks. I think over the last month I have gathered almost 20 hours of data!
Keep us updated!
Also just got the William optics wedge today, since the skywatcher wedge just doesnโt do the job, so hopefully since itโs a better quality wedge and heavy that it will do a better job
Also very short nights unfortunately. Longest day of the year soon though
How to improve the Skywatcher Wedge to make it clamp properly https://astro.wheep.co.uk/hardware/wedge/
My adventures in astrophotography
If it was not for this thread and all the help, suggestions, envy, goading etc given by the 'bros' my wallet would not be as thin as it is now, also I'd still be trying to fix a toilet roll to the mount so I can use it to polar align
, or taken up something less hard like learning to fly a 777.๐
Do any of you go to dark sites?
if so, how do you power all the equipment etc?
Sounds nice and expensive, keep us updated on how good it is!
I don't drive so I dont have that luxury haha. But AZ-GTI is optimal at 12v 3amp. I think a lot of batteries can output that power. Mini PCs vary. Mine is 12v 2amp. You could then remote to your phone
I wouldn't rely on Venus for too long to focus with, it's getting very low.
Try and use a star like Altair, Vega, Arcturus or Deneb.
I usually lick a star close to my target for focus.
No clouds where I am tonight. (For now) I want to squeeze in some more m16 data considering I only get about 30 mins a night before it goes behind a neighbours house haha
Just had another Mr Bean night, will disclose the full absurdity of the failure in the morning, after a cup of java and some sherlocking for I know not how it occurred.
I plan to work on a battery solution at some point so I can do just this
So last night's comedy - started early so i can catch venus above my neighbours tree and roof, focused, pleased with myself. Look how not like Mr Bean I am, slewing here, slewing there.
Pointed North as always for TPAA, clouds rolling in, very bright, waited. got dark and a mix of whimsy and menacing cloud wise, started TPPA, Plate solve 1 done, 2 done, 3 no no no. Why? Maybe clouds. Pointed in different darker skies. no plate solve, Changed solver, no plate solve,
Refocused, yeah slighly out for some reason, no plate solve, restart NINA and computer, stars are bloated, star trails - turn off - then on mount. Turned everything off and on, looked at the lens - dirty - much dirtier than I expected! how? Filter staring at me - is that a scratch, can't be I have not taken it out of the imaging extension.
Carried on, clouds thicker then got lighter, refocused, pointed back to North... many days later, lets look at the filter - there is a great big smudge of something unmentionable (since I don't know what it was but greasy, removed it, put back imaging train without filter voila plate solved.
Cleaned (most likely damaged the filter) put it back in and plate solved.
1am. Napoleonesque defeat. Go to bed.
What about a car inverter such as https://www.amazon.co.uk/1200W-Inverter-Converter-Sockets-Suitable/dp/B0C3R9T8K3/ref=sr_1_53?adgrpid=52572840469&hvadid=259039774542&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9045535&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=4116405623143425444&hvtargid=kwd-315484106809&hydadcr=28152_1724844&keywords=car+inverter+240v&qid=1686914071&sr=8-53
Yeh one option is a leisure battery which is just like a car battery but tuned differently with an inverter. It seems kinda weird to convert 12v to 240v just to convert back to 12v though, so the other option is to use DC-DC converters
Those shims arrived for taking slack out of the focuser. The good news is that they did take some slack out, bad news is that I didn't order enough shims so I've got to wait for more to be delivered
But can you connect an extension and plug in all the devices such as mount, camera, dew heater, etc?
cloudy tonight for me
No dust smotes this time but vignetting and odd shaped stars and comet-ery effects on some and no nebula?
150 subs at 50s, ISO-1600, 20 darks, flats, dark flats processed in ASTAP.
Will have a look at this tonight!
Thanks
The Vignetting is really strong. How are you connecting your camera? Through 2 inch or 1.25inch?
There is some nebula. The comet effects. Are because of the lack of field flattener and that is probably making the vignetting worse too
Also as your camera is not astro-modified, it will be difficult to pull out the nebula detail.
I struggled with the Pelican nebula last year when I wasnt guiding
That was my image last year
I will see what I can do to bring out some nebula in yours
I use a 1.25" extension tube and a svBony CLS filter to cut out the light pollution, (this is the same filter which I found to have a rather horrible smudge on it ๐คช . I have ordered a 2 inch extension tube to reduce the vignetting but then will lose the use of the filter! As for the flattener, ENS do not have one with a m42 adapter and the StellamIra Reducer-Flattener m42 is out of stock, ๐ง
BTW Did the flat frames work?
I'm sure there would be an adapter out there somewhere? Might be worth contacting an astro shop like FLO to see exactly what you need if you purchase that reducer? As you may need spacers to get correct back focus. But yes I think having 1.25 access with your camera sensor is going to cause some inevitable vignetting.
The flats worked at removing any dust motes! I would say the vignetting is too strong for the flat frames to remove.
In terms of suggested target. I would either take a lot more data on ne ula such as Pelican or Eagle. Or go for something like star clusters or Dumbbell nebula? It's hard to pull out Ha with a stock dslr.
That being said, M31 will be arriving again soon!
Thanks once again for the invaluable help, seriously this thread; all the contributors have been vital for my progression and slowly getting better, including being able to get fairly decent calibration frames, doing TPPA, focusing, installed a mini pc, but of course the rest of the mountain needs to be climbed and this is a slow hobby - clouds, rain, light pollution all hinder, and of course money!
Your pelican image is impressive and wish I could do that much
- I am not getting great results but progressing and will be adding the flattener as suggested - major problem is that every time I come here my wallets gets lighter 
I had tracked the pelican at 50 seconds - is that OK? if so can I push to 60s? Weekend wasted - all clouds and torrential rain today.
sky is clearing up, but is it worth shooting - as it won't get darl until 11ish?
cloudy here in SE
well, kinda. It's been a lovely day, but a little cloudy now and it'll get worse overnight
and besides, let's me honest, this time of year, you'll wait until gone midnight to get some decent dark, then it'll start getting light approaching 3am
I'm going to concentrate on some improvements to my kit over the next month or so
I am divided, though want to shoot but when I look at the cost to benefit - cost being time, effort, lack of sleep to the benefit ie , practice, number of subs, but astro dark is between 12 and 3. 2am is my limit to remain a functional human and while I write this, it is getting cloudy...
I can do perhaps 2:30 if I'm on a roll, but after that I lose interest ๐
btw, this should be your home page on your web browser ๐ https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/maps-and-charts/cloud-cover-map
See that tiny gap between the 2 giant clouds that's me looking up
๐
Venus is visible, but cloudy
I can't connect my az gti to my computer
It says cannot connect unexpected response
I have reinstalled the program but there is no difference
which program?
Synscan pro@modest nebula
if you're using the cable then switch to green swamp server
I connect it through its WiFi
I can't help. Not used Synscan or wifi for ages
I think most of us have moved to using the EQmod cable (available from amazon for about ยฃ26) because it is much more reliable compared to the wifi connection.
however, have you tried connecting to it via your phone?
Try that first, can you connect, move the mount, can you align etc?
I was using wifi for a while in the synscan app then it just packed up and never worked again. Not sure if its due to the firmware update
Also I had issues because I would power the scope using batteries - when their charge declines it would behave very erratically. I moved to powering it via mains.
@rugged jackal
It connects with my phone and it is reliable
So at least that confirms your mount's wifi is working and that you can connect, just not with your windows PC? Are you able to see the mount's wifi ssid in your PC's wifi settings? Is the connection stable? I found my connection with my android phone was more reliable than the PC. There may be a conflict - did you install a new app? if so perhaps remove that. I had an issue with a conflict when I installed an app - lost the use of my camera!
Also check if there is an IP / channel conflicts. Maybe worth turning of your router,
BTW this is the cable i referred to: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08LPC1F5W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Skywatcher Telescope AZ-GTI Mount PC Connect Auto Guide EQMOD Cable for Replacing The Hand Control Cable USB RJ12 Skywatcher AZ-GTI Theodolite Free hand control PC directly connected to EQMOD cable (need to flash EQ mode firmware) USB to RJ12/6P6C Serial Cable Build in FTDI Chip inside .Support a...
The other thing I can suggest is to install the latest mount firmware, also install latest updates to windows.
Well, i can connect the mount with an older computer but with my new laptop it say unexpected error.and after trying for a while it finally connects, but it is not that reliable @rugged jackal
Things to try:
Reinstall the Synscan app on PC
Check PC for updates (non updated pc's can affect wifi)
Run a firmware update on the az-gti
Try a different wifi card (like a usb wifi adaptor)
But an EQmod cable is much more reliable. No connection drop outs or latency issues! Well worth it.
and, you can make your own if you're into DIY and have the tools. Mine cost me about a fiver ๐
I wish I knew that before I over paid amazon when I could have sent you a tenner for it ! 
@modest nebula
How do i make my own?
you need a USB serial board like this:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=usb+serial+board&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=usb+serial+adapter+ftdi&_osacat=0
Find great deals on eBay for usb serial board. Shop with confidence.
then you need an RJ12 cable wired to the serial board like this https://eq-mod.sourceforge.net/eqdirect2.htm
Self build intefraces
just needs 3 wires connected - ground, transmit and receive
for Rj12 cable, I guess you could get something like this and cut one end off. Make sure you get a cable with all wires connected though because sometimes phone cables only have some wires missing which will probably be the ones you need https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275062689399
To be honest, if I didn't already have the bits laying around I probably would have bought that one off Amazon. It's far less hassle.
@modest nebula ok
I think i am going to make my own then...
Thanks
Been meaning to ask this for a while, in NINA sequencer it gives me an option to dither - I heard that is good for removing noise, should I turn this on (I am unguided and use a dslr) and how often etc. Thanks.
@rugged jackal You can still dither and should, you just have to connect to the direct guider in the connection settings and set up how much to dither by that you want
a friend of mine 3d printed a couple of drive cogs for the 50ED for the focuser project. I only actually need one, but I guess I've got one spare too
Thanks for the advice, please suggest a number for the 'dither every #' field in the sequencer?
Really looking forward to seeing how this goes!
At 30 seconds I used to dither every 3. That was enough to remove walking noise
The longer the exposure, the more you should dither. When I do 5 min subs, I dither every exposure
OK, thanks, if I understand this right in my case dither every 3 for 30-60s exposure?
I would say so. If you are still getting noise, then try every 2 exposures
Also since it is Friday hence obligatory clouds!!!!
BTW what does dithering look like during a shoot? What should I expect?
your target in your photos will look slightly off centre after each dither
the stacking program will realign them based on the stars
then after stacking, you'll have a border around the edge that looks a little weird (the overlap) that you'll need to crop
Thank you, very useful information.
Took a risk, skies pretty clear, focused, tppa ... And yep u guessed it biggest pile of sh... Clouds you don't want in the middle of doing tppa ๐
Looking at the met's weather app, if only we were in France or Spain, or even down south like Salisbury
There goes my dithering for tonight 
fits perfectly ๐
I'm in awe at the quality of this item too. You can hardly tell it's 3d printed. None of the usual tell-tale signs like the bracket that you see in that same pic
also, I did this https://astro.wheep.co.uk/hardware/evoguide-50ed-focus-improvements/
My adventures in astrophotography
Looks awesome
Is it worth guiding with az gti?
The max exposure i can get unguided is 11sec and i am a bit worried
100% Imo, I couldn't go over 30s with mine but could do 90s with guiding
I changed mount now but I had the azgti, evostar 72ed, canon 1300d stock, svbony 30mm guide scope and a 120mm mini to guide
sure, 1 sec
Those are great!
What settings did you use?@azure solar
iso 1600 for orion and m27, iso 800 for andromeda. all 90s subs
wait I think it was 800 for m27 too
Have you tried getting more than 90sec?@azure solar
yes but it wasn't consistent enough to be worth it
Oo i see
I use nina for PA
Should i try something else?
Is nina as accurate as sharpcap?
Should be just as accurate
Superb work, great to see these - lots of talented people - very aspirational.
thanks, I've improved a lot since then thanks to the new mount. Much less of a headache compared the azgti
Last night's target - Eastern Veil Nebula, approx 1hr of data
nice, I forgot to post my attempt at it with the azgti. I think I reworked it like 7-8 times lol
I still don't like this image ngl but yours has a lot more detail, gj
mine's real noisy but I'm pleased with the way it came out
I'd like to get an image of the entire cygnus loop but I don't have the fov for it
it's very large yeah, gotta use something with less than 200mm of fl
mine's 240mm but I think even with a large sensor, that still wouldn't do it (goes to check in Stellarium)
oh, my Nikon DX format camera would capture it all with this scope. I might try that at some point
Would be great to see your work.
How do i connect my guide cam with the az gti
you don't. you connect your guide cam to your computer via usb, then your software on your pc sends pulse guiding signals to the az-gti via usb (or wifi). It does not use ST4
Depends on how well the mount guides
Oh wow, that is a cracking image, you must have a good camera is it an iphone ๐ , seriously that is a really nice image, well done, another one to emulate. One day...
I dream of being able to produce such 'poor' images.
don't worry you'll get there, I had a pretty much identical setup to yours + guiding
This is the stacked image of the Dumbbell Nebula as suggested by @low mural https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ArtGTCljOem9XWk1UsXitw-bXaRDdFBQ/view?usp=sharing
2 sessions's data, total of 433 Subs at 35 seconds, dither on every 3, direct guiding, darks, flats & dark-flats applied. Stacked in ASTAP.
Sorry for the lack of messaging guys! I have just come back from my holiday in Spain funny enough. And it was very hazy due to the saharan sand coming over! Hot though! Loving the video nebula images, this is my next target! @modest nebula i will have a read on your website about your focusing project!
@rugged jackal may take a look at your M27 stack tonight 
Thanks @low mural appreciate your feedback, I think I certainly need to get that flattener, waiting on pay day, ๐ง , sometimes I think your job here in reality is to make sure I eat less and astro more. 
and welcome back, looking at the weather app, Spain had very little cloud!!!
Yes the flattner will really improve your images. But I must say, BRAVO! Stars are lovely, calibration frames has removed Vignetting and dustmotes. Couple of artifcats but not horrendous. This is fab! Well done! Quite normal to not see much red as its Ha and I am guessing your camera is stock. But really great work here @rugged jackal Best image yet! (Here is a really quick process, may have another go at it tomorrow!)
Have you tried processing it yourself @rugged jackal?
Here is the full autostrethed image without any editing. The edges are normal as you always crop down, and you can see the elongated stars around the edges because of the lack of field flattener, but what you can see is a well focussed image with lovely stars! & what you cannot see if vignetting, walking noise and dustmotes!
Yes, techically there was no cloud, it was sand lol. But stilll would have been terrible for imaging!
woah, that's real good! I told you before that you'd be getting fantastic results once you sorted calibration frames. Bravo!
Wow @low mural - great processing, I know it is my data but kudos to your ability to get the image! Thanks to you and all others, you are helping me improve bit by bit and helps to have some cloud free nights. My A6000 is unmodified and will be saving up to buy a dedicated astro-cam but my next purchase will be the flattener. I am now OK with the Darks & biases which I take immediately after my session but still struggling to get the flats right. Though they worked well but astap was moaning about the flats not matching correctly and applying corrections!
Thank you for all the help - improving bit by bit.
Yes so all that help is paying off, thanks to everyone again, suggesting I use dither and every 3 and to nail focus/TPPA etc. Biggest improvement is the number of subs and the calib frames. ๐
look what arrived from Hong Kong \o/
Circuit boards for?
it will control a stepper motor to allow NINA to focus the telescope
You mean you are building an auto-focuser? cool, I'd love to see how that works out. Please keep us updated.
This is my rough processing of the M27
Yes. I'll document here. https://astro.wheep.co.uk/
My adventures in astrophotography
Can the az gti handle 6kg?
If i take it down to 4,5 kg
Will i get promising results?
what do you want to put on it?
a skywatcher 102/500mm with a dslr
And a 70/350mm guide scope
that's quite a lot, both in terms of weight and fl
If i use a 30/180mm guide scope?
eh not sure, the azgti has very lackluster quality controls so you may get a good unit able to handle that just like you could get a bad one that's almost unusable
the azgti is good if you stick to wider fov, max 300mm Imo
I have tried using the 70/350 with it
But its a cheap one and half of the picture needs cropping
Good website, enjoyed reading the home page but is it WIP?
yeh, just started really. Perhaps it'll be done in a few weeks
Hi I use a length of wood that you attach to the saddle away from the mount and place my I phone on the wood with elastic bands, i then use this app to find Polaris .
Looks an interesting method. can you show the 'wood and phone' on the scope, thanks.
A bit like this, it keeps the mobile phone away from any magnetic interference from the mount
Hey I love the improvised method, would never have thought of this, is there a free version of the app for us mere android users?
This is interesting, but I think I'll stick with my NINA three point polar alignment
You can get the App for android but I think itโs about ยฃ2.50?
I used it to get sigma Octantis when I went to Australia to image
This is good. Just the stars are clipped. Did you run starnet?
That's a pretty cool way of doing it. TPPA would be much more accurate but for an initial alignment, it's a good idea!
Agreed, I was pleasantly surprised at how accurate it gets it, great for setting up in daytime
I've set 3 circular paving slabs in my garden, so when I place the tripod I'm almost aligned. NINA TPPA is then fine tuning. Great for my garden but your trick would work well for when I eventually go to a dark site
Similar to you I use bottle tops sunk in the lawn, keeps the wife happy ๐
great solution. Even more great when you tell the wife you have to renew the beer bottle tops on a regular basis, at least twice per evening ๐
Yeah I need to do this. With the AZ-GTI i would just use a compass to position it roughly. Now I have the EQM35 I can use the polar scope and get as close at 1 arc min before TPPA
Aye, this is a good idea!
Sorry for the late reply, no I have just been messing with Siril to see what I can do but will process properly after I have watched your clip again.
Brilliant ๐.
I have thought of doing the same but I have yet to find my sweet spot, North - houses, roofs and funny looks, South - trees, West - city centre light pollution, East is OKish, hence moving as per the target.
Has anyone ever used Ali Express for astro gear? Any good? Any issues with customs?
depends on the store, most stuff is fine. Just be sure to use paypal
Thanks, good point about PayPal. What about customs?
I never had anything get stopped by customs but I have only ordered cheap stuff
For future upgrades, this is the one Cuiv reviewed and recommended (I think he recommended) but of course I'd love to get opinions from ypu guys.
Support me on Patreon!: https://www.patreon.com/cuivlazygeek
QHY's $200 Planetary QHY5III715C camera: https://bit.ly/43glY6i
David Huff's Astrobin: https://www.astrobin.com/users/Deep_Space_Dave/
Dylan's review of the camera: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYb5d5-5aWw
My equipment
Cooled camer...
yeah I've seen that video, my concern would be the pixel scale
if it's tiny you need really good tracking and ideally guiding
evostar 72ed right?
Yes that's right I use the evostar 72ED. Ahh right Cuiv has the advantage of a good scope and tracker which is guided.
mh both your pixel scale and fov would be very small
.71"/pix
unless you stick with lucky imaging
in contrast, mine's 2.47"/pix
how wide of an erea you sensor pixels cover, the smaller the more accurate tracking as to be
for example with that pixel scale of .71"/pix you need guding to be lower than that, as a general rule of thumb
what camera do you have now Zulu?
Yep the sensor on this camera is tiny and my az-gti is not a very accurate tracker esp since i don't have any guiding
I have the sony A6000 mirroless.
https://astronomy.tools/calculators/field_of_view/?fov[]=2654||8629||1|1|0&messier=31 <-- that's your Sony right now
if I were you I would invest in guding rather than a different imaging camera
with my azgti that's what made the biggest difference
especially for polar alignment since I could use the guide cam with sharpcap
you'd be much more zoomed in so a plus point is that you can reach smaller objects
but as fenice said, your pixel scale is .71"/pix so your tracking would need to be very good to take advantage of that or you'd get blurry images
Makes sense, I happened to see Cuiv's vblog and was wondering if the ...715C camera might be a good investment later on.
in my experience, an az-giti can do 0.6" on a good day but mostly ~1"
so even with good tracking, you'd mostly get blurred images
Good job I asked. What would you buy re a budget guiding setup?
I wonder if it can bin though? if so you could enable 2x2 binning and double the effective pixel size for half the resolution
yeh you're right
that cam doesn't have great FWC either but despite that, it's not bad for the price
an asi 224 would have a bigger pixel scale, fov just as small as with the qhy
but Imo guiding would make more sense
the cheapest you can go is asi 120mm (maybe used) and a generic 30mm guide scope
2nd hand is a good shout. I found one of these on ebay for less than ยฃ100 - cam + scope https://landseaskyco.com/products/altair-starwave-50mm-guide-scope-gpcam-mono-guide-camera-combo
What ypu are saying is good sense, best to invest in guiding first and then upgrade as I improve my skill.
I'll keep a look out. Thanks for the reality check lol
yeh, guiding will let you use your existing kit more efficiently, but it will also give you a lot more to learn. Don't expect it to work flawlessly on day 1 ๐
Most of my equipment is second hand lool sorry pre-loved.
You know me - I am used to that now. ๐
you can also set a new profile in nina to use the guide scope and camera as main scope so you can run tppa much faster
would this be a cheap alternative to an ASI224? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304964114058
same chipset, and Altair isn't a bad manufacturer
That would be so good, so my wish list is - Flattener first, then a guiding system.
would be native supported by NINA and Sharcap etc
same sensor so yeah
those IMX224 sensors have massive pixels but very low resolution ๐ฎ
I used the asi224 for my first astro cam. Although it's good, i grew out of it quickly. I am using an Altair GPCAM3 178c for imaging now. Although not really a proper deep sky cam, i have got good results with it.
@rugged jackal I got an Atik GP secondhand for ยฃ60 and use that as a guidecam, when I upgraded my astro cam (hopefully in the next few months) I will be selling the Atik GP
@low mural Did I understand you correctly that you will be selling your Altair GPCAM3 178C?
No sorry ๐ I would use the 178 as a guide cam and sell the ATIK GP which will make a good guidecam for you
looool OK sorry I thought it was the same cam. Which one is the Atik GP?
Right, cool. when you are ready to sell, let me know, hopefully we can do a deal. Appreciate it buddy.
You will be the first to know!
How long can you take an exposure with az gti at 300 mm unguided
Each AZ-GTI is different. I maxed at about 40 seconds
I agree with Benn, each is different I seem to have won the az gti lottery and got a good performing one, just take your time doing polar alignment and re due it about 3-4 times to make sure that the seeing from the atmosphere wasnโt effecting it, even now with guiding I will do 3 polar alignments the 1st one is to get it in a good rough spot, the 2nd time to fine tune it, and the 3rd just to make sure that if the atmosphere is wobbling and Iโm not in a tolerance that Iโm okay with
Looking good, glad someone cam imageโฆโฆ had a clear night finally last Saturday but family was over and I crashed after and didnโt wake up till the morning ๐ญ and then last night but to hazy from the fire, and Iโm seeing as of now a couple of clear skies Monday Tuesday and possibly Wednesday but Iโm just hoping this haze will be gone by then
Thank you! At the risk of being a stuck record, this thread has been invaluable - so many great people helping. Thank you.
I have followed (or as best as I can - I use GIMP not PS) @low mural's video clip on processing and this is my proper attempt at processing. Ta Da - I present the Dumbbell Nebula - 2 links - a tif and fits please feel free to offer advice etc...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/15ZT-ed4hMRYYQeP3BbqxFSKAUekEDLPe/view?usp=sharing Tif
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PwZVciR0v7lWp_-QtCEfypWPqaiNTyV-/view?usp=sharing FIT
And while guiding how long can you take or it again depends on luck?@low mural
150 seconds max but there are a lot of factors, payload, pixel size/focal length, balance, seeing cinditions etc
I have seen a guy on YouTube that take 10minutes@low mural
Getting good @rugged jackal. I will do a video process of your data at some point for you too. May help you to get rid of the magenta coloured stars!
Again, depends on the mount, payload, focal length, balance, polar alignment accuracy, pixel size, guide scope, guide camera ๐
So although it may be possible to get 10 min subs, I would not expect it!
Oh that's a bit disappointing
Not sure where you are based but most of the UK is bortle 4+. 10 mins will be washed out
Not many people take 10 min subs
I am southern Europe
I bought a guiding cam and to try getting pictures of st least 120sec
I assume that mount was regreased/tuned too
taking really long subs is risky if something like a plane or satellite passes in the fov the sub is ruined, gust of wind? sub ruined
can't dither effectively either
How long do you guys take your exposures?
2m unfiltered, 3m filtered
It depends on my targets. But yes would also depend on filters.
I use a stock dslr for imaging
With my eqm35 mount I can take 5 min exposures but some targets are better to ahoot with lower expsoure times
An uncooled cam especially a dslr may have problems with thermal noise if the exposure is too long
I take relatively short subs due to the light pollution and to get more effective dithering, with more overall subs you can dither more and get a cleaner result
Yeah I tend to stick to 120s - 180s and 300s if I am feeling lazy ๐
yep, I tried 300s subs once and the final image was really noisy
Ok, tomorrow will probably arrive my guiding camera so i can start shooting
What guiding equip did you get?
I bought a bresser hd guiding camera
And i have a 30/120mm finder that i will turn into a guiding scope @low mural
This one
Nice yeah that one is defo good enough for guiding. You did have me worried, i thought you got this one. Which i did to start with.. big mistake and returned it ๐
I think that this one can't take long exposure @low mural
An astro store in the UK said it would work for guiding. definitely a lie
Yeah it could only do 1 second I think and I was being optimistic because I took the advice from an astronomy store!
Some people only care about money unfortunately
What was your setup with the az gti?
Better than my sv205, that camera was miserable
At first i wanted to buy the sv105 but i found the bresser one
Evoguide 50ed & Altair Gpcam 178c
Generic 30mm guidescope & Atik GP guidecam
All connected to a mini PC
Use sharpcap
That will be great, much appreciated, do you by any chance use GIMP? as you know I am a cheapskate and that is what I use 
I don't but I suppose I could give it a go! My employer pays for my photoshop as ot use it for work so I am quite lucky there haha
Super late to the party, but hi!!
remember, it's always morally correct to pirate adobe software
All the best people do!! ๐
I hear you but Adobe has moved to a subscriber model and hence cannot lonnnnng test PS etc. 
wdym long test?
in other words pirate
oh you mean that since it's a subscription model it's harder to pirate or something?
That's the best way to get PS, well done.
Yes exactly - older PS would use a key which could be pirated but the subscriber model requires an online account and paying for a sub to be able to use it.
I've been using a pirated version for a couple of years, it's not hard to bypass the account thing
I still have the installer if you want
very interesting, and just for research purposes does anyone have a guide of some sort... ?
the installer I have is literaly click setup and let it run
it's a 2020 version but that's fine for me
again and just for research where does one get this installer, you know for research.
pretty sure I got mine from piratebay
There is a site called piratebay?? where have I been living?
๐
under a rock apparently lol, it's been around for more than a decade
Hi
Hahaha You are so right. Just went to that site, warnings all over to use VPN before doing anything. Selling Nord VPN - another subscription!!! - so I need a nord VPN cracked installer to get the PS cracked installer. ๐ ๐คช
it would be safer to use a vpn (any not just nord vpn) but I just download anything without one
but check how many downloads, seeds and comments to check if a download is safe
or use Gimp ๐
I shall create an article on my website later showing some tricks I use when editing in Gimp
Hi - welcome to the longest polar alignment ever ๐
I look forward to that, perhaps add a couple of video tutorials?
screenshots ๐
Yeah that would be really useful.
I might also document my typical Siril workflow too
Please do, esp with screen-shots - would be very useful.
I'll reprocess my east veil nebula data and screen shot it all the way
That is one of my bucket list targets but my imaging dslr is not very good at picking up reds well not in bortle 7/8 skies.
You might be surprised at how well it goes. I just used a IR cut filter on mine. Not used narrow band on it yet
๐
good question, I guess you'll have to try a few
@rugged jackal https://astro.wheep.co.uk/howto/process/ and https://astro.wheep.co.uk/howto/postprocess/
My adventures in astrophotography
My adventures in astrophotography
Excellent - will try out the steps you have shown on my next project, please suggest a target. Does anyone use Pixinsight?
note, this is what I do. Not necessarily what is the "correct" way ๐
I will update as I learn more
I can't justify the expense if PixInisight for a hobby
No imaging tonight thick blanket of grey unrelenting clouds
same here
the eastern veil nebula is pretty easy to shoot, it's very bright (ngc6995)
I think @rugged jackal will catch more than just eastern veil with his micro 4/3rds
Agree totally, it is an incredible price to purchase a license but most of the 'professionals' endorse it and the results are really good but for someone like myself at the low end of the curve, siril and gimp are good enough. However, I do endorse @azure solar moral argument to 'use' PS products whenever possible. 
but, I think it will come out pretty good
OK The Eastern Veil Nebula will be my next target. How many subs at around 35/40 seconds? My Sony is an APS-C sensor. I'd prefer to use my Fuji X-E1 as it is lower resolution and hence large pixels but cannot control via NINA.
that example on my website was 57 x 60
mine was 257 across 3 nights
really, I needed 4x the data to get better signal to noise
90s subs
next time I do it, I'll use my duo-band filter
the point is, just an hour of 60 sec subs will get you a pretty good result
4 hours even better, and so on
it will be a good target for you too, because it rises in NE. you'll get decent darkness by about 11:30pm onwards
so if I do about 400/500 at 35 seconds that should be pretty decent data?
Excellent and I can also try out your instructions on your website. Cool. sounds like a plan. Now if only I can get one you guys to clear the skies for tomorrow?
pfff yeh, it's the most frustrating hobby
at least I have my auto-focus to built. The stepper motor arrived along with half the components. So I can get soldering & making brackets, etc
Sorry guys another question. My last processed image the Dumbbell looks much better in Siril but when saved in tif or png it is very dull and soft?
How can I improve or at least get a fairly close facsimile of the Siril image?
This would be interesting to see develop and may try to copy it for my 72ED
never had that problem but if I were you I'd load it in Gimp and reset the levels,
Gimp is pretty good
And i ve heard that it has some astrophotography plugins
Is you tif file 32bit? Change it to 16 bit before exporting
Yes it is 32 bit ! Right I'll change to 16bit
hmm I've never had an issue with 32bit tif
This is the 16 bit png
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1o2vfLJzpM0LkCzahXqo6VcGp2_yMqNZn/view?usp=sharing
wow looks nice
Thank you but it looks much nicer in Siril before I save it as a png or tiff - I seem to be losing a lot of the image data from the FITS to png?
do you have the fits on google drive?
ok but that's prior to processing
had to adjust the levels slightly. it was very dark here
this is from Gimp
and here's a version I just did with your data. yours is much cleaner than mine
Are the darks a bit clipped or is it an impression?
I think this is better than my image. It has more detail.
Are you rysynthisizing your stars? If so, you do not need to unless your stars are elongated.
Yes, again correct, I am resyn'ing the stars - right another note - do not remove stars if not elongated...
Putting a vid together for you now
Thank you @modest nebula @low mural @azure solar
@rugged jackal I did not get on with GIMP so I processed in Siril only and the image came out pretty good for a 15 min process. Video link below along with the final PNG image and a link to my Kofi page if you fancy contributing anything towards my daughters new telescope.
Excuse my poor editing skills but I have tried to add some captions in there too.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1PiVfcTv08ozZ_vFJrr7r85GJPuw4j2yb?usp=sharing
https://ko-fi.com/astrobenn
Been working on a new process which seems to be getting good results. Instead of recombining starless and star mask in Siril, I do it in Gimp. I import the starless image, then create a 2nd layer which is a clone of the starless layer but I gaussian blur it quite heavily. I then mix it in with the starless image with a "lightness only" filter and enough opacity to fatten our the colour but to keep it sharp. I then add the star mask, stretch it a little until I'm happy with it, save the starmask layer as TIF and use AstroSharp on it, reimport the result. Result = colourful nebula and sharp stars.
Nice image, thanks for the new video. I will be using that too, good to have the captions makes it easier to understand what is happening.
Nice! I'll try it out too. Thanks.
documented at the bottom of this page https://astro.wheep.co.uk/howto/postprocess/
My adventures in astrophotography
Had a quick look - really good. Thanks for this. And I love the final image, wow.
Another night full of clouds, so bloo... annoying!
Hope it helps @rugged jackal and thank you for the kofi's 
Clouds are supposed to clear up at about midnight here.. lets see
Do you have any tips for imaging with the az gti?
- Good polar alignment
- Lightweight payload
- Use EQmod instead of wifi
- Use shorter exposures.
- Well balanced.
Some people have been able to tune/regrease their az-gti. I did not trust myself though.
Its a great little mount!
Of course the video tutorials and Beezer's written instructions are very useful. I think most people will agree that your (and other's) help and tutorials have been very helpful in improving my skills. In fact this thread contains so much useful stuff it should be pinned.
Clouds have cleared and though late I am going for the veil.
What do you mean by shorter exposures?
My main scope is 500mm focal length @low mural
Just try not to push the mounts limits.
What scope do you have?
A refractor 102/500mm@low mural
Perhaps not a wise choice to set up tonight, it was clear and now mostly cloudy
Yeah I would say 500mm is pushing the mounts limits. You need to get PA as close as possible and make sure you are balanced carefully with a sturdy tripod. If you are guiding, you should get decent shots between 60-120 seconds. If you aren't guiding then i would not push past 30s.
That being said, some az-gtis perform better/worse than others.
Got my theory test tomorrow so decided not to embrace the clear skies, glad I didnt now as it has clouded over down here too ๐
At least we are approaching full moon during a low pressure system. Perhaps as the new moon approaches, we will get some clearer skies
@low mural
I have seen a guy on YouTube that takes 20min long subs
Using a 500mm refractor telescope
How does he do it?
In today's video, I'm imagining the Flame and Horsehead nebula, two beautiful cosmic objects that are easy to photograph even as a beginner astrophotographer you will find great satisfaction capturing those two objects.
And thank you all for the support.
.............................................................................................
@low mural here it is
I ve also seen him take 10min and 15min subs
2:36 in. He said "tonight I am going to be taking 300 second exposures"
I hang on. Yeah I see he said he will take 20 min exposures in Ha.
I am not sure how much I believe the 20 min exposures. That is coming from my 2 years of experience with the az-gti.
There are some things to think about though.
He is taking 20 min exposure in narrowband ha. If you did that in broadband, your image would be washed the hell out.
Even the top astrophotography dogs out there don't shoot 20 min exposures. There are a number of reasons such as:
- Dithering is unreliable
- Increased thermal noise
- Atmospheric seeing conditions
- Washed out images/heavy gradients
You are more than welcome to try and shoot 20 min exposures whilst guiding, but I am almost certain you will see some start trailing.
120 seconds is more than enough, there is no need to go higher. Its all about the quality of the single subs as well as quantity. Having more subs to stack will also increase signal to noise ratio.
If you look at the images in #deep_space_pics you will find that 99% of people shoot under 300 seconds
Sฮฟ, he might be lying?
I will stick to 120sec though , i think it is ideal for my setup
I found this video oddly interesting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N60vzaIZq6Y
So what is "FWHM" (Full Width at Half Maximum) and "HFR" (Half-Flux Radius)? And how do they relate to our imaging camera sensor and focusing our telescopes? What is an "under-sampled" or "over-sampled" image? Does it matter? Watch this episode of "How I waste my time", next on YouTube...
Yes cuiv did a good video on this ๐
Anybody guess what I have done? Clue - Normally @low mural @modest nebula tend to be responsible for this behaviour.
Have you bought something? 
Yes - the flattener from ENS - lucky coincidence one of them was actually a M42 version which I bought. ENS is an incredible place - it is literally an Aladdin's cave of astro & optical equipment of every size & description and he is also Roboscopes - has an observatory in Spain, came back from Morrocco which he says is the best seeing he has err seen. And is about to go to Chile to work on another project.
that's the for 72ED?
I might have to buy a 72ED at some point. They look great
I got it cheap from amazon for ยฃ270
I used it last night and found it seems add more noise???
and hence was finding it hard to focus
Amazing! Did you manage to pop in?
Yeah with the flattener, the focal point will change. You may find it easier to get close to focus during daylight with a tree or building far away.
It shouldn't introduce more noise, it should let in more light though. Perhaps reduce you ISO or exposure a bit when taking test shots?
Remember your field of view will be wider! See the example below with M31. Red eithout reducer, yellow with. (Couldn't remember which camera you have but it will gove you an idea)
Also remember you will need new flats and dark flats!
also, now you have a flattener, the distance between your flattener and your camera is critical. Make sure this is correct
right, another thing to understand and get right. Please see image above.
The reducer is attached directly to the scope, then I have the m42 to NEX camera dapater and then the camera
that should be ok because you're using a proper t-ring adapter. But you can easily check it. That symbol on your camera that looks like a circle with a line through it should be 55mm away from the flattener
@modest nebula is correct here, back focus is very important. The gap between your sensor and flattener should be 55mm
Hard to measure but looks around 54-55mm from the flattner. I tested the focus during the day and can focus clearly on the chimneys and street lights using the focuser but found it harder last night - think because it was hazy skies.
It is either 54.5 or 55mm - I can slot one end of the callipers in the camera sensor line (the O symbol) but have to judge it for the start of the T2 adapter because it is slightly lower from the camera body so have to judge it.
it'll be fine
Great.
I tried to do a session last night, TPPA was very good, even with some clouds - it can see through them and plate solve!! and was able to polar alighn within 20 mins.
it's looking mostly clear for me tonight, so going to focus on setting up PHD2. I need to tune my backlash settings
no imaging for me tonight though
Very cloudy at the moment - but to be expected as I have purchased new equipment. ๐
Yeah we got rain here at the moment!
My L-Enhance filter arrives tomorrow!
Itโs going to finally be clear tonight for me, but since itโs the 4th in the states idk if itโs going to be worth it from smoke from fire worksโฆ. Itโs always something every time itโs a clear night for me recently
Remote Observatory is a great idea. Especially for people who are not physically able for health reasons or people who live in small flats with no outside space.
I do get a sense of enjoyment capturing images from my back garden though!
yeh, and I get enjoyment in maintaining, tweaking and tuning my own gear
I agree, the whole point for me is learning this difficult subject, sorting out problems and to finally get the image - I get a great sense of achievement.
just worked out a technique to get stars looking real good in Gimp. I'll document soon
Brill, thanks.
bottom of this page https://astro.wheep.co.uk/howto/postprocess/
My adventures in astrophotography
hmm now I'm not so sure about this. will have to play with it some more
Gotta love the 4thโฆโฆโฆ
Yes! Just arrived!
Sorry for the late reply, yes I managed to pop in and it is a strange and wonderful place. In an industrial business area, narrow front with big iron railings on the window and door. Need an apptmt to visit and the guy opens the door on buzzing. And it is 2 long and wide floors of mayhem - astro equipment everywhere top to bottom, telescopes, cameras, lens, adapters, filters, mounts, everything in hundreds, it was astronomy cave - literally a treasure cave of astro and optical gear.
He has about 5X the amount of stuff in his 'shop' that is not listed in his website.
I would be so frustrated, what part of the US is this? and a belated happy 4th of July.
Brilliant - can't wait to see the results from this filter. Bit it also means - clouds and more clouds.
spend some time rediting my veil data using the techniques I documented on my website. It's far less noisy now and I'm relatively happy with how it looks, especially for less than an hour of wideband data
Nice, lovely colours, unfortunately my attempt was really poor - lots of noise to signal.
Nice work! Looking to shoot this target next!
It should look awesome with your new filter
Tomorrow night is looking promising!
tonight looks good for me. I have sky from 11pm onwards, fully clear at midnight
cloudy for me
Damn I have the opposite tonight. Clear now, cloudy at midnight ๐
When I looked earlier, I had a 3hr windows. Now that's reduced to an hour if I'm lucky, so that's that for this evening then ๐ฆ
How did E Halley and W Herschel become such great astronomers when they had to battle the british weather like we do 
I got this little freebie from one of those chinese apps that sell junk. Thought it might be worth a go ๐ its got some power in it tbf. Need to find a way to stop the blue light though
They must have started very young - like when they were 3 years old, otherwise there would not have been enough clear skies for them to make their discoveries.
๐
Tragically all very cloudy for me all week.
just unplug the led or break it
there is an led under the fan probably
1 step closer. stepper motor is mounted with belt. Now to finish the electronics
It looks good @modest nebula
Nice one!
Exactly what I did!
I was too tired to go out last night but tonight is looking promising!
last night was great. Unfortunately, tonight is too, so I'll be knackered tomorrow
Hi guys please advise, I tried the veil nebula but I am getting faint images - should I keep going and take more frames tonight or try something else - please suggest some targets.
Looking really good, wish I could do something like this.
You can do anything if you put your mind to it. That bracket was made with a bit of aluminium from B&Q, a hack saw and a drill. It's nothing fancy ๐
you could try to run the guiding assistant
regreasing the mount would also help but how much the azgti can improve is very limited
mine's actually behaving at the moment
and we're live https://astro.wheep.co.uk/livestack/
@azure solar i have regreased it
I will try again tomorrow
At least i got some very good 1min subs
normal azgti shenanigans then ๐คทโโ๏ธ
mine was mucking around at the beginning of the evening until I remembered I rotated the guide cam. A quick recalibration sorted that
Poor guiding for me today too! Took me 2.5 hours to set up so I am just running with it!
@scarlet stump have you calibrated properly? Are you accurately polar aligned? Have you taken darks for your guide cam and have you ran the guiding assistant
I'm getting 1.18" at the moment but the stars are coming out round enough. Took my ages to get focused and polar aligned with the l-enhance ๐
Single sub is look ok!
The cheap chinese fan has knocked about 2 degrees off my camera temp ๐
Overall its quite a faint target. Keep going you will be surprised once you stack
The sub looks great - Veil Nebula? I am going for that too but mine looks like this:
Yeah it's there. My bortle zone is better than yours and I am using a dual band filter so I am removing most of the LP. You will be surprised with what you have once stacked!
Stars are looking tight! And no more elongated stars at the edges too! 
Right I'll carry on
Well you keep making me spend money I mean improve that's right improve.
Capitalism sucks ๐คฃ
Everyone should be handed astrophotography gear by the state!
Sure does but the socialist capitalism is the worst.
I second that or at least take away the profiteering by ZWO et al
I think ENS will be my new best friend or I will be theirs but need to save up. I should have taken photos to show you what a crazy place it is.
Yeah you are lucky to have something like that local to you!
this has been guiding at ~1" all evening. I'm actually impressed for a change
Impressive for the az-gti i must say. What guidecam do you have again?
I have got an hour's worth of data. Wanted at least 2 but hey ho. Gnna run for another 3 subs (12 mins) and wrap up with calibration frames ๐ฅฑ
Quick uncalibrated stack and auto stretch. Now that looks promising!!!
My amp glow is horrendous ๐คฃ
Very rough late night process but damn, this filter is good!! 1 hour of data so far
Starnet ++ doesn't work
It says Microsoft.net framework problem
Do you have .net framework installed?
I solved it
I installed a vc runtime file and worked@azure solar
Like it, your rough is my cut diamond.
Wow nice! It'll be even better when you process it
this was his final process in deep sky pics
nice. almost as good as mine ๐
Your framing is better than mine. My sensor is just too small ๐
here's mine from last night. Once again, far too noisy. Way too much light pollution here. I'll need to get another few nights of data to make this one better
what scope
Evoguide 50ED
my camera is undersampling too
gives me hope for my uranus-c
this is my only photo I got so far, 8 minutes worth of data
What noise reduction method are you using @modest nebula ?
Nothing special. I put a tif from Siril into Gimp, get it looking best I can. I then clone the layer and apply a gaussian blur. I get that one independently looking good but deliberately different. I then reduce opacity on the 2nd layer to get a reasonable balance between sharp and blurred
I must re-do my calibration frames. I think that will help
your 8mins is better than my 1.5hrs! I couldn't get anything out of it. Mind you, that was months ago and I've learnt a lot since then https://astro.wheep.co.uk/2023/05/16/bodes/
I imaged in a b4
thats prob why
I'm perhaps 7 here
Yeah that is pretty much how I do it but within PS instead.
All this time, i thought you had a 705c lol. Yeah your images are decent with an imx464 sensor. The SNR isn't great on it. In Fact i think my little imx178 may be better. Your pixel size is 2.9 too right? This is what concerns me with getting the imx585 tbh. My pixel size currently is 2.4 and even that is slightly undersampled
yeh, really I need a smaller pixel size. It's making the stars look quite bad
mind you, I paid less than ยฃ100 for this sv505c and I only got it because it was available and had a larger sensor so got me a bigger fov
Yeah that's decent. Do you drizzle? That should improve your stars a bit.
I think the 505c is very sensitive in IR too
yeh. mostly 2x but if it looks good, I'll try 3x
yes, but I don't yet have an IR pass filter
What camera are you considering investing in?
I didn't yet ๐
I will rephrase, which camera would you ideally and realistically like to have 
something cooled, something with a larger sensor size, something with smaller pixels
but, I'm still learning stuff with this one, and each time I try I get better and better results. So, I'm happy until my ability exceeds my equipment
for example, last night I learnt that if you rotate your guide cam, it freaks out until you recalibrate. Obvious really ๐
Yeah I get you! I feel like I am approaching the limits of my 178c but then again this L-enhance filter has opened some new opportunities!
I am yet to remove my guidecam from my guidescope but I will now bear that in mind. It does make sense for guiding to freak out but an easy thing to miss!
I figure I'll keep my gear this year because as well as my skills improving, the sky is also changing which gives new challenges. Perhaps next year I'll get a new cam
Sounds good! I am hoping to get a C5 or C6 for my daughter for Christmas as she is really into planets at the moment. I thought it may be good for me too. I can then dip my toes in planetary imaging and possible to use it for galaxy season. (Then again I would be oversampled with my current camera, even with the focal reducer) either way Its a win win!
the thought of planetary bores me to death
My daughter will be amazed by the images haha
Nice one!
did you guys see this graph someone posted the other day?
dunno if it's true or not, but it feels it ๐
Damn, surely not.. that looks painful! Now I feel bad for being in bortle 5/6 ๐
cool image well done
that's just normal azgti jank
try to lower minmo a bit
how long are your guide subs?
1min
guide subs, not main cam
Sorry
2seconds
should be fine, have you ran the assitant already?
pretty much, you could try to smooth it out a bit by playing with minmo and aggression
Ok, i will try it today
this is how my guide graph looked on my azgti
Despite the graph the subs should be fine ?
if the total wobble is lower than the pixel scale you're fine
420mm, 90s
I usually trashed about 20% of the subs
but I kept other that with higher standards weren't really worthy
Ok
Thanks for the help
I will let you know how i did
btw aggression can go over 100, so you could try to set it to 120 or so if the pulses don't correct enough
What was your total RMS?
I do not remember,
I wil take a picture and share it here later tonight
Does your graph also look horrible?@low mural
Well depending on how you display your graph, you can make it look horrible. So it is hard to tell by just looking at the graph.
Sub 2:00" is considered good for the az-gti but some people have been able to get sub 1:00".
In general sub 1:00" is optimal.
I used to get an average 2:50" total RMS with the az-gti
With the EQM35, I am getting an average of 0:90" total RMS
(This is measuring in Arc seconds rather than pixels, which is the recommended way to measure)
I can generally get ~1" with mine. sometimes lower, sometimes higher. It depends on how good your guide cam & scope is and how well you polar align. Also, make sure to keep your guide cam focussed & choose a good guide star in PHD2. It doesn't always auto-choose a good one
What guide scope and cam would you recommend to pair with a 355mm scope? After having my travel rig unguided I'm thinking of venturing into the world of autoguiding so I don't have to ditch so many subs
any 30mm guide scope will be fine
It seems the zwo 30mm paired withe the asi120mm is the order of the day?
the zwo scope is very expensive for what it is, honestly I can't suggest it
Ok I'll look for a second hand 30mm scope from somewhere .Good tip, thanks
mine was a 2nd hand 50mm guide scope with a mono camera. I't probably overkill for my needs. I have no idea what would be optimal for your setup
well, I say 50mm. It's 202mm focal length
I use a 60mm guide scope and while it's overkill it also guide so much better than my 30mm
I had like 1.1" / 1.4" rms vs .6 with the 60mm
mine's this one, with an older camera https://www.harrisontelescopes.co.uk/acatalog/starwave-50mm-guide-scope-gpcam.html
Auto-guider package with the extremely sensitive Altair GPCAM and the Starwave 50mm Guide Scope. More sensitive than the older AR0130CS sensor in the GPCAM 120MM, with quality all-metal focuser. No more polar alignment hassles! 1 year free SharpCap PRO software license! The most accurate Polar Alignment Software on the market, plus Plate Solving...
Wow, that's quite a difference. I want to keep the guidescope small as it is a travel rig technically
tbh I think it's a mix of a bad guide scope (the svbony one) and light pollution
Looks worth considering. I think I'll se if anything comes up second hand though
My scope and camera resolution is about 1.7" so any guiding around that will be fine
I paid just under ยฃ100 for mine - scope + camera
the focuser on it is fantastic. I wish my Evoguide had it
got a built in rotator too. overkill for a guide scope
I don't even have a rotator for my imaging setup!
me neither. I have to loosen the clamps and turn the whole scope! ๐
Yup that's what I end up doing but my focuser fouls the dovetail if I do it too far so I'm limited
52.09"?!? Something is going horribly wrong there. It is likely a user error as I could not imagine any az-gti performing like that.
Have you input all your guidescope and guide cam settings correctly? Are you sure you ran the guiding assistant? It should have told you something was wrong ๐
I don't even know ๐
I think tomorrow i will reset the app and do it all over again just to be Safe @low mural
holy hell
Not really, but better than the other night
In theory every pulse should bring the line back to 0 but with a lot of backlash it's hard
The total error despite what i do keeps increasing
It's better but not considered good. I was getting okay 120s subs with this sort of RMS
Remind me, what scope and camera are you using for imaging?
If your pixel scale is lower than 2.52" you are going to get poor results
And you are definitely polar aligned? How are you polar aligning?
And your total alignment is close to 0:00:00?
Yes
So your resolution is 1.53" per pixel. So a total of 2.52" RMS is going to produce some poor results. Your total RMS should be equal to or preferably lower than your pixel resolution
How do i lower the rms
So you have done all the main things stated below.
- Correctly balanced your scope?
- Focused guide scope?
- Calibrated guiding in PHD with a high SNR star and a star low to the horizon?
- Taken darks for your guidecam in Phd2?
- Accurately polar aligned?
- Updated firmware on az-gti
- Guiding via ascom and not st4
- Ran guiding assistant for more than 2 mins and followed instructions at the end?
If you can, run the guiding assistant again and screenshot the results. Let it run so it measure backlash on both RA and DEC
Yes j have done all of them
Also check cables are not tight or snagging or there are no nuts or knobs preventing the az-gti from turning
So is this the problem?
And just checking but have you got the tripod and mount positioned correctly at home position? Pointing north?
Yes
As close to 0 as possible. When I run the assistant. I usually get between 0-2 arc mins
I got 0:03:00
Yeah you need better than that
It needs to at the very least be below 0:01:00 but ideally you want 0:00:00 (not always possible)
Run nina three point polar alignment 3-4 times to get a more accurate result
Ok, i have another question
I usually run it once to get it below 0:01:00 then run again to get 0:00:10 and then run again to get close to 0
With the az-gti, the best i could get was around 0:00:10
P.s i love how we are back on the original posts main topic.. polar alignment
Thanks to this thread @rugged jackal now smashes PA!!
I use apt to control my camera
It says put the camera in bulb mode
After i adjust the setting and press shoot nothing happens
Whereas with nina i have no problem
Honestly, stick with nina 
I would if I could but my guidecam is not supported so i use apt. I don't have any problems with using my ccd cam but i used to have problems with a dslr and apt.
I think the camera needs to be in bulb mode too though?
Yes, i put it in bulb but i get nothing
Yeah, stick with nina! Haha
Ok, thanks
I will let you know how everything turns out
Great! Looking forward to it!
Also bear this in mind too. The star you were using at the time had a SNR or 8. You want a brighter star to get more reliable results.
You will find it here. If i can, i try to pick one that is around 100. But that isn't always possible.
Oo ok, i ll try that
Also make sure your star has a sharp peak. If it is flat, it is likely bloated and will produce poor guiding results
Rms should be half
Or ur pixels are gonna be smeared a lot
Although it is ideal to have RMS half your pixel resolution. It's not 100% necessary.
Here are 2 of my images.
My pixel resolution is around 2" per pixel.
1st image was taken with total RMS of 1.50"
2nd image was taken with a total RMS of 2.50"/3.50"
1st one is less than but more than half, the 2nd one is more than equal to.
If you are over sampled, then yes, it is more important. But in my case I am slightly undersampled and in @scarlet stump case, he is neither over or under sampled.
apologies @modest nebula but https://astro.wheep.co.uk/howto/postprocess/ seems to be broken?
Also, make sure it's perfectly level, or it will go out of alignment when it rotates
https://astro.wheep.co.uk/tutorials/image-processing/postprocess/ - I reoganized the site
Thanks @modest nebula - this is so useful!
๐
Thanks to everyone - seriously when I started I could not get my head around polar alignment - I kept asking how does the mount know? ๐คช There is so much in this thread. Much more than just TPPA. Incredible journey.
You don't need it to level at all, once it's allinged it's allinged no matter what. A level start just makes the allignment process a easier?
I think @modest nebula is right here. A
Polar alignment wont be accurate if you are not level.
I am not precisely levelling my tripod as I am shooting on stones ๐ so when i do polar alignment, it's not 100% accurate. I get it down to at least 00:00:10 by performing 3-4 tppa's and when running the guiding assistant, I tend to be 00:02:00 out of alignment. But it's good enough for me and guidings seems to remain consistent.
Here in the UK we need to make some sacrifices in order to take advantage of the very rare clear skies. Looking at the forecast currently, there is not clear skies in sight. Just in time for new moon.. 
I need to get some small slabs to put on top of my stones, so I can be consistently level!
My attempt at the veil nebula
395 subs at 35s, 85% moon, I am still not getting my flats right.
Polar aligning get's rid of the leveling imperfections
The skies have been the biggest hinderance to getting decent images of the universe. Since we like space -and while we wait for the clouds to annoy other people, anyone interested in UAPs?
Fair enough!
Looks like you were working on a 32bit tif here @rugged jackal before exporting from Siril, you change to 16 bit tif. Otherwise this happens
Can't immediatly see any issues from the flats here. Feel free to send the unstretched data ๐
You are getting pretty good data now @rugged jackal Now for the processing. might be worth using #1021002743080558642 #1021002578588352572 channels to get an idea of other peoples processing techiniques!
ok I'll process again.
It was ASTAP squealing that the pixels differ too much in the flats.
Was there any vignetting or dust motes?
yes I had some vignetting but no dust motes.
try darkflats
or siril
never heard of anyone using astap for stacking
Can t get lower
Re run it again
If you are getting consistent results, then 00:00:16 should be ok
Yeah, it is stable
Ok now open phd2 and run the guiding assistant and see what you get
Ok, where should i point it?
Guiding assistant should not matter where but I would say at a star around 30-50 degrees above the horizon I would say
For calibration I think it needs to be 30 degrees or below
Ok, i ll run it for about 5 min@low mural
Yeah this is nicer! I would say you have probably overstretched a bit, but good work!! I will have a process tonight ๐
I'm actually jealous of how in focus and tight your stars are!
Thanks buddy. The 72ED is daid to be a good scope.
I'm half way through writing some astro software at the moment, and I went out this evening for a lovely Indian meal & a few beers, and now I really can't be bothered to finish it ๐ฆ
Sometimes its good to have a break!
Has it settled to 1.53 or is it climbing?
It pretty much there
Not sure why your PA error is still so high. Is it 68 arc mins at the end of the result
What was the result of the guiding assist?
Yes
I mean at the end of the day, if you are getting nice round stars in your subs, then proceed
The. Check, if your stars are still round. At the end of the day, your subs will give you the overall picture
Ok, i am going to take some pictures then ..!!
yeh you're right, I've made good progress today and I'm at a stage now where it's going to get heavy, so a few more beers and some Youtube. Off to watch cat videos
Good luck! How have you got clear skies, send some our way!
Enjoy man!
I am from Greece
We have clear skies almost every day ๐@low mural
gosh, ban him!! ๐ฎ
I guess, i am lucky!
gosh, I've had too much food and drink to care about coding tonight but I still want to progress, so I asked ChatGPT to code it for me and it looks like the solution it's come up with is good. I'll implement tomorrow
Great work with the data again @rugged jackal You have certainly got the hang of it!! 
Thanks, wow your processing is very good, I cannot believe this is the same data! I'd love to see/read how you processed this.
you are so lucky; If only we can have clear skies every night or at least on Fridays & Saturdays.๐ ๐
Well , i have a problem
I have a canon eos 2000d
And i use nina to capture
the saved images are dark without any information showing
and when i stack them in dss the final photo comes out without rgb( in grey scale)
What should I do?
Ps i can now take up to 1min subs!!
@low mural
Individual subs are likely to be dark until they are stacked and stretched.
In regard to the grey scale, it is probably a setting in nina which is spitting your subs out in greyscale. I dont have much experience with nina and dslrs but I will take a look in the nina settings a bit later.
Nina have their own discord, they can help you if you need immediate help!
Awesome that you can get 1 min subs now! Is that with 2.5 total RMSm
Ok, i ll check it out
Yes, i also tried to balance it a bit better and that helped a lot@low mural
what happens if you open the output from DSS in Siril?
You can still edit the picture
to see if there's any data in the stacked file just open it in siril and on the bottom where it says linear, change it to autostretch
I ve done that but it doesn't have colour @azure solar
can you try to upload the image?
In dss how do i debayer it?@azure solar
in theory it should be done automatically when stacking
The stacked image came out without colour
can you upload that file? I want to see if I can do something with it
Unfortunately not, my phone doesn't recognise it
I use wetransfer to upload stacked images usually, not the direct upload
Yeah something off. Upload the stacked images to either we transfer like @azure solar said or google drive. We will take a look ๐
I think i got it , i asked in nina s discord
I will test it tonight and see what happens
Nice! They are a helpful bunch in there tbh!
If only we could say the same - ie test tonight, the best we can say is , I'll test as soon as we have a 2 hour window of clear skies sometimes this year!๐
Currently i am at an astroparty ๐@rugged jackal
Astronomy compels the soul to look upwards and leads us from this world to another.
Enjoy!
Maybe Sunday night apparently for me. Lets see.... โ๏ธ
104*40 sec exposure
This is nice! Well done ๐ stars a little blown out which is preventing you from seeing the detail of the pillars. But still a good result! Is your 2000d a stock camera or astro modded? Also did you do starnet to remove the stars during processing?
My 2000d isn't astro modded
Yes , i removed the stars and also
used an achromat to capture it
Thanks a lot!
@low mural
Nice! well done, only 104 frames at 40 seconds and you get this!!! 
Nice, yeah the achromat would probably bloat the stars as not all colour wavelength are at the same focal point. That being said, it is still a great image. Got a decent amount of ha for an unmodded cam.
I bet M16 is about 30 degrees in the sky for you? It's only about 19 degrees here in the UK and a pain to capture when there are overhead cables, rooftops and trees in the way 
Yeah, it's a nice target this time around here
Tonight, i think i am going for the veil@low mural
Rubbing it in with the clear skies again ๐ I started my Veil image 7 days ago but cannot continue yet ๐ง๏ธ๐ง๏ธ
Haha , let's hope everything goes according to plan ๐@low mural
Haven't you got some seriously hot weather down there at the moment? Your camera sensor must be ๐ฅต๐ฅ
Yes, it s really hot
though we are at a mountain and at night the temperature is quite good @low mural
Sounds good, send photos so we can all enjoy the skies and weather vicariously. Our skies are - well blighted with cold unrelenting clouds.
Miraculously I am imaging tonight. Testing the gain on my camera whilst capturing more veil data
no imaging for me tonight but I am tweaking my driver that I'm writing. It's quite usable now
Is this for the focuser?
no that's another project ๐
the focuser is coming on well. need another few components though
You making your own camera now? ๐ฎ
no. I have a few raspberry pi's laying around with HQ cameras. I used to use them with Kstars/Ekos and they were a bit pants tbh, mostly because the software sucked. So I thought I'd write a driver for them so they worked with NINA
and now they do, and they're working quite well
I figure it would give me another option. These have smaller pixels and a smaller fov
I think they'l reach further for smaller targets
That's I would love to get into coding!
Pretty cool!
Could I technically write a driver for my Atik GP to work in NINA? Haha
yes, if you had the specifications for it or an Atik SDK
I'm surprised there isn't already an ASCOM driver for it though
There is and it doesn't work with NINA.
Basically if I have phd2 open and NINA open, I can't connect the camera to phd2 because it thinks NINA is using it when it isn't
most odd ๐ฎ
But it works with apt and phd2 so I can only assume it doesn't work with NINA. I contacted Atik but they are not interested because it's an old camera haha
When I contacted NINA, they got really defensive. Which is fair enough if it isn't their fault haha
well this driver I wrote is using Alpaca. It lets me run a driver on a Raspberry Pi and ASCOM running on my PC will automatically locate it on my network & start talking to it. It will appear like it;s connected direct to my PC
That's cool, you have so many little projects going! Making good use of cloudy nights!
yeh, I have plenty of opportunity
I'd also like to try to set up my old Celestron reflector too, but clear sky is too rare to waste ๐ฆ
Yup, and the UK seems to be stuck in this low pressure system atm.
I have got about 40 mind of data tonight though, so far. I'm using different gain settings so I am not sure how it will play out. I also rushed my focus and polar alignment but seems to be OK.
Another hours data added. So happy with this l enhance!
nice work!
Thanks guys, much less noise at the higher gain. Will properly process it later today and upload into the comp 
Looks great, well done.
Higher gain will sacrifice some FWC. Did you notice it affecting stars at all?
I ran a sensor analysis, also spoke to the guys in "ask a mega nerd".(patreon channel) some had experience with the imx178 sensor and used to do 300s subs at 350 gain.
If the camera had unity gain, I would say it would be about 400, but I did not want to risk too much FWC reduction.
The stars weren't clipped but still in good shape. I think 180s is probably optimal.
Here is my sensor analysis result in sharp cap.
I did mine a while back too https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xALjaTmV4yTsKMDVzlnbRZEnKMkYr3x5OJ77IoIPNuk/edit?usp=sharing
What gain do you image at?
100, unless it's an especially bright target then I'll try 0
Hmm yeah I think I went I bittoo dark the 2nd time round. 3rd time lucky!
colours better in 1st one but the contrast not quite there. colours look weird in 2nd and a bit dark, also noise reduction artifacts inbackground?
Yeah I think the artifacts are from pushing the black point too far. But then again, there is only so much noise reduction you can do with freeware. Discords compression probably isn't helping either ๐
Settling for this I think
Nah I'm happy with this one 
The first one looks great!@low mural
Looks great!
looks great buddy, love the colour and detail - better than my veil image (by about 1000x) 
I am thinking of buying a new eqm 35 pro or a used heq5 pro .what do you guys think?
heq5 Imo
Does it matter that it is used?
if it's well kept it's fine
astro stuff is usually cared for more than other stuff so it shouldn't be an issue to go used
Should be fine, just ask to have them turn it on so you can see it move and if it does your good to go, and like fenice said Astro stuff is safer to get used than anything else since people take care of their stuff in this hobby
Ok, i will check then..
How do i connect it though to nina?@azure solar
Yeah HEQ5 if you can afford. I went for a secondhand EQM35 because I don't plan on loading my mount too heavy and cannot afford a HEQ5 haha.
With recent heq5's you would connect using a USB cable and ascom (eqmod) (or other servers. Ascom is most popular) if you get an old HEQ5 then you may need to get an eq mod cable. My EQM35 has USB.
Make sure to ask for guiding logs and ask if there are any issues
Hi guys, sorry if this has been answered but when doing a TPPA do you have the mount tracking or stop tracking ?
tracking, although NINA will sort that out for you
thanks, right, just went out last night and it came to me that I did not know this. sadly it was short period of clear skies, North, East, West all covered in clouds within an hour and south was clear but too many trees!
Weekend looks to be wall to wall cloudy stuff.
yeh ๐ฆ
more time for projects though
just waiting for a few connectors then I can power it up \o/
what's that? ๐
the clue is in the name at the bottom left of the circuit board ๐
it's a control board for a DIY EAF
pardon my ignorance, isn't it quite large? the onstep eaf I have is very compact in comparison
this is 5cm x 6.5cm so it's not large
obviously it will go in a box at some point ๐
ah that's not too bad, looked bigger in photo (pun not intended)
I've probably got enough parts to mostly make a few more, so I might do that at some point and put them on 99p auction on ebay
@rugged jackal Tracking, but whenever I would start doing the polar alignment the synscan app would stop tracking having it fail polar alignment but stopped having that problem when I switched over to the gs server
just watching this talk by Dr Robin Glover (author of Sharpcap) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RH93UvP358
How long should your subs be? How much should you cool? What gain should you use? How can you get the most out of your CMOS camera? Dr Robin Glover of SharpCap talks us through the science behind deep sky astrophotography using today's modern CMOS imaging cameras.
Missing Gain Section: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ub1HjvlCJ5Y&feature=youtu.b...
I think the takeaway from that is that in my bortle area, I need 30sec subs. Any greater than that and I'm not really benefitting from reduced noise. However, narrowband needs 10x that length.
just flashed the firmware on the focuser, wired up power & stepper motor, started the Windows control software and focused in/out. Works perfectly so far \o/
now got to do some mathmatics to work out in/out limits so I don't end up destroying something
is the stepper a normal one or is it geared? sonac built a focuser too but without gearing it wasn't working properly
the stepper motor itself isn't geared but it's driving a belt with pretty high gearing. The lens is also pretty light touch. I doubt I'll have much issues
hrmm low gearing even ๐
That's a very combersome focuser
But for the evoguide I don't think you can do a lot more
I also worked out how to reduce the backlash which should make it easier to autofocus
I could make a field rotator holy
got it on the scope today and it's focusing great manually (by jogging it in and out). Got to try to simulate some sky to see if NINA will auto focus though
my autofocuser works on real stars \o/
nice
now I can be even more lazy
an eaf is a game changer, makes setup even easier
ok everyting perfect tonight, guiding at 0.57", focus is pinsharp, everything good. I bet clouds roll in now
What is everyones next target? I am thinking IC 1396. Not 100% yet though
wanted to do western veil nebula but there's a think layer of humidity over here that doesn't let me shoot anything
it's frustrating beacuse it's clear but I can't shoot
The skies are teasing you. The UK is being battered with low pressure at the moment which is really frustrating haha. W Veil is tricky no? 52 Cygni is pretty bright!
I am currently having another go with my E Veil data. Was not 100% happy with my result haha
processing*
nah that star isn't really an issue, here's an autostretch of some nights ago when I tried ignoring the haze
Idk if it's worth trying to put more time on it in these conditions
Oh yeah that is not as bad as I thought haha. Does Starnet like it though? haha
Yeah I guess. if it was me, I would take some subs and then check the average FWHM from any previous nights data? Or maybe shorter exposures?
I didn't even get to that point, I did calibration and a stretch and it was so bad I just left it sitting there in his folder
shorter subs probably aren't a good idea with the l-enhance, I don't think snr would be good enough
Oh I was not aware you were using L-enhance. Yeah maybe not then.
tonights frustrating here. I can see enough stars to browse around & play with my new focuser, but it's so hazy I can't get any decent imaging