#Rokinon/Samyang 135mm discussion
1 messages · Page 6 of 1
i can’t tell send a better picture
like use snipping tool and send it on discord through your pc instead
Ok
What’s the snipping tool
go to the search bar and look up snipping tool
Ok
did you figure it out?
it looks like they’re a little bit trailed
Where is that 😭
what about snipping tool didn’t work
When I do what it says it won’t work
open it, click + new, drag a window to what you want to snip, copy it, send it
like it won’t open?
I’ll do that
it looks a little trailed, just stack it and then in the final stack it’ll be easier to see
Would the trail be the reason the galaxy moved
Like I couldn’t have been more precise with the polar alignment
It was insane
I’ll stack it any way rn
even if your polar alignment is perfect the gears in your mount aren’t perfect so there’s gonna be error
what mount is this
Star watcher 2i
yeah so the gears in there are far from perfect so your statrs are never gonna be perfect despite how close you get with your pa
It would also be beneficial to check your PA once in a while
True I’ll do it in a sec
I’m stacking it rn
I’ll show ye it
When it’s done
actually I kinda can’t because I can’t centre the 6 and 0 bc id have to move the arm or the mount
Also is it ok that the galaxy moved tho
That ia due to the tracking error of the tracker
Issa normal unless it's strong
So it’s ok
stacking will align it but it might look weird, again just stack it and see
k
Also it’s just lights obv
why didn’t you take any calibration frames?
I haven’t yet
I will when I’m done my lights
I accidentally cancelled the stack but I’d say it’s ok so I’ll do it properly tmrw
Ok so that was by my Roki (and it’s a little trailed but do the stars look in focus)
it's out of focus
yeah it looks out of focus to me
How badly
Like do I have to do a lens surgery on it
was that the smallest you were able to get the stars?
Yeah it locks at that
i’m not super familiar with this focus issue with the roki honestly, maybe someone else can chime in and give you some advice
Are ye able to fully tell because the stats a trailed so mabye there not
no it’s definitely out of focus
no i would say it’s a pretty significant amount
yk how u lock focus , i think coz ur locking it u go into focus then the locking point is a bit out, so i recommend u do test exposures and adjust focus each time
@velvet lark
So I’ll have to do a surgery on my lens
no , you’re probs going past ur focus point , remember focus doesn’t stay the same all the time coz of temperature btw
stopping down slightly will make focusing easyer tbh
f2.0 focusing is pain
generally 2.8 is nice 👌
Yeah it’s the sweet spot
@mystic loom do you know of any way to mess with backfocus/tilt without buying any crazy expensive accessories?
Mine really isn't that bad, but certainly could be better
Tilt? Just either the Astrodymium plastic shims (they’re meany to deal with severe tilt) or the Zwo thing which is 100
Back focus I found a great set of aluminum shims that include a 0.15mm shim so you can’t get more precise than that
Waiting on them from aliexpress
Will send link
same actually. i want to try "perfect" backfocus
still on its way
Also @shell wasp did you use any accessories in particular for cable management?
Mines a little am5 specific (blessed passthrough electricity) but like my cable setup
Lots of short right angle usb b
SmallRig Universal Spring Cable Clamp(2 pcs) MD2418 can be mounted on accessories with 1/4-20 threaded holes (Such as SmallRig cages, cheese plates, and handles) by an anti-drop 1/4-20 screw. It’s able to set the cables inside to avoid the mass of the cables, including HDMI cables, charging cables, shutter cables, and headphone cables. It’s able...
got some of these 
just cable loom
like so
Your rig is a bit too powerful
Tbh though that tilt thing for the asi cameras has been a lifesaver
It’s awesome to know that once you have it dialed in the tilt is just done
Lol I also own a 72mm f4.8 refractor and a Celestron c6
One mount to drive them all
Haven’t really done much with the c6 yet but will get around to it in the spring
Need a better guiding situation for it
QuivTheLazyGeek used a C6 with the Hyper Star mod quite a lot. Turns it into an absolute light bucket.
Maybe at some point I’ll get around to trying a hyperstar on it
taming it would be fun to read up on
Roki array directed to a hyperstar with mirrors 
Light speed broken
...it doesn't work like that
kek i know
Also that obstruction would be...
Anything is possible if you put your mind to it 
imagine making this with Rokis
@mystic loom imagine tilt adjust a roki array like that with a stack of backfocus shims you just dropped on the floor.... then the baby alarm goes off
Those are pretty much just as fast. They also have bigger objectives.
god, dying a thousand deaths looking at that and thinking of the fussing involved
Believe those are Canon 400mm f2.8s if I'm not mistaken?
yeah
i wonder if the 2.8 canon is sharp. the 400mm f4 supposedly is
the expensive giga fast lenses usually dissapoint
like the 300mm f2.8 is expensive and way too old for modern pixel size. needs to be stopped down to f4 
bokeh bro photographers dont care less for corners
I was thinking they were using the latest 400mm f2.8, but I may be wrong.
Mmm yeah think ur right, canon was involved in the project
$500 vs $12,000 a piece tho lmao
so I did the math on this:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804519318882.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt
if you use the bayonet adapter from First Light Optics, and get the agena blue fireball filter drawer, you can fit the following on an imaging train:
- filter drawer = 16.4mm
- automated rotator = 10mm
- zwo tilt adapter = 11mm
- internal back indent = 6.5mm
- 0.6mm back focus shim to compensate for a 2.0mm filter = 0.6mm
44.5mm ✅
you could automate FOV rotation for multi target plans every night
I like my ASIAIR setup too much to introduce a rotator (and it's $400) but this was a fun thought experiment
If anyone is inclined to do so, a fresh Roki dataset is awaiting you here https://discordapp.com/channels/794642864218439681/1150887654276210768
Interesting calculation. Would sure solve my tilt
300mm f/1.8s also popular for astronomy
That horserace finish photo lens? Yeeeah so many of those kicking around
How thin is the thinnest?
oh for the love of god with theis heics
that 0.14 one is nominally 0.15 but i'll call that close enough
they're also labeled so don't need a caliper
Quite thicc
thinn
Guys btw my Roki is a good copy thankfully
The problem was that I was going slightly past focus
Noice
Quick and dirty edit of my data in https://discordapp.com/channels/794642864218439681/1150887654276210768
Im gonna try HOO tomorrow or sometime else because I couldnt reinsert stars today
Yeah, I didnt remove stars on that one...
anyone know if the new highspeed L extreme has bad haloes like the standard one?
Lukamatico did review on it
I believe its improved pretty decently
Not as good as other filters but I believe Luke said for the price it may be compelling
Jwst looking ahh
https://telescopes.net/idas-nbz-nebula-booster-filter-48mm.html re filters, just saying — NBZ (the more versatile one f/2 and slower) only $240, why not go with that?
The IDAS NBZ 48mm filter is a nebula booster filter designed to be used with single-shot color cameras or monochrome astronomy camears to increase contrast in H-Alpha and Oxygen III nebulae.
This is the updated version of the IDAS NBX filter. It corrects the halo effect seen in the previous model by reducing internal reflections.
Feature...
what do we think about these stars wide open?
this is 300s with NBZ at f2.2 in the vicinity of heart nebula
worth trying a session shot completely wide open or does it look like I'm running any risks?
(I always reshoot my stars in RGB at 4 or 5.6, just about risks to nonstellar)
this is with back focus dialed in to some 0.02mm variance from what it theoretically should be
They look bang on to me. You've got your backfocus dialed in there
Decided to gamble and shooting wide open tonight - clouds kept me from starting until 1130 so with how little time I decided why not just keep adding data to sadr for tonight at least
3 will be same as 5 prior when I was shooting at f2.8
Will see what I get tomorrow!
WBPPing just last nights captures to see what they look like by themselves

Im just gonna do the f/2.7 with stepdown ring
might get away with f2.4 and some extra prosessing when i use 533
hot damn guys
But im not gonna fool around when its new moon
I think I may be in business at f2.2
they have coma you'd expect but they lift off
Do a quick dbe on that gradient
Simple gradient from top to bottom
Ye
I'm totally doing another night of it tonight at f2
I think no clouds are supposed to be out tonight
this'll wrap the project for sure
18 hours at f2.8, 8 more at f 2.2
f 2.2 is 1.67x the light of 2.8, so figure those 8 hours are like 13
31 hour integration in B7
can't wait to go to a dark site with no gradient
and just boom out a project wide open
hell even b5 will be amazing
with a narrower filter you get little to no gradient in heavy light pollution. but fast optics are a problem with em
my 4nm for slower optics is absolutely insane
nice
(2 * 0.9 * ((G - 0.1*R) / 0.917) + 0.5 * ((B - 0.08*R) / 0.498)) / 2.3
This very nice
from somewhere on cloudynights
have you tryed the new plugin
does this work with the version of Pixinsight right before the latest?
for me it does
I am holding off upgrading because apparently there's some bug with NAS drives in the latest
watch the nebula photos video about it
I keep all my stuff on a 16tb network drive for sanity
i didnt download the latest pix when the emails started dropping
going to give them a couple months to iron that all out
awesome
with this instead of pixelmath, you have live preview
this rig just really has me wanting to go out to the phoenix club's B4 site and go shoot a bunch of IFN
im trying to go out and do just that
but the forecast is so weird i dont know if its clear or not
not in the cards this month with travel and stuff
i really need to just get everything ready and watch the satellite photos
but i think I'm going to try and block out new moon weekend in october
could probably shoot pleiades too then
the dark site we use is to the east of phoenix, just desert to the east
so could start when m45 is still low-ish
light dome to the west
if anything would encourage me to go home at a reasonable hour, lol
i saw a 6.5hour stack of some dust from B5
with f5.6 scope.
a f2.8 roki is 4 times faster and B5 to 4 is like 3times more signal
man 6.5 times faster, f2.2 than 5.6
that's nuts
yeah this system is 4.76 times the speed of my telescope
so do you run this script on your debayered image?
like is this before or after channel extraction
are you opening it from the script menu or something?
its under process -> color calibration -> Narrowband normalization
after you install it
i mis spoke
i mean process
got a very weird color palette when run on my image as it is now
use mode2
and try lightness options
need to screw around with gradient a bit but this process is a life saver
splitting and recombining is so messy
can't wait to entirely redo my stack with the 8 hrs of f2 i'm about to get
i'm really worried I'm about to keep my other samyang I bought and wait until next year and buy a second mc pro and just binocular my setup
haha
you know
a imx571 has so much more fov its gonna image more than two 533 rokis side by side
get 24 hour integrations after two nights of shooting
ha good point
but then I have to entirely re assess my lenses for quality at those farther corners
unless you image at the same point
yeah but farther reach out into the illumination circle
yeah that
tryed mine with one. its allright. i might get actually good results with this 533 i have on now
it's a thought, is all
the lens I'm NOT using was the cheaper one, I could sit on it and tune it and see if it can match this one's performance
if not I can definitely sell it still, plenty of folks want them
that tool is great
this is a little overworked for just 3 hrs of data but just enjoying playing with it
needless to say I'm not wanting for any detail shooting wide open
my f.28 step down ring had a short life on this camera, lol
send a quick png ill try what lightroom color denoise would do to that
would it smooth this out
probably the o3 signal is worked abit hard
yeah its bit too heavy hand on the sliders
what about noisex the blue and green channel some more and then recombine -> play with the tool
but yeah. easy fun colours with the plugin
this was a rough test for me
it felt so easy
Nice that’s amazing
Yeah I’ll be able to be gentler with it when I combine all my data
By then it’ll be a 26 hour, (effectively 31 hour at 2.8 if normalizing for aperture differences) project
Should have enough oiii
ended up collecting another four hours last night of F2 dual narrowband for sadr, to make a total of an additional 7 hours to that project all at F2 instead of 2.8, to call it done -- when I went out before bed i saw pleiades was rising enough and couldn't help myself during a clear new moon 🙂 so shot the rest of the night at 30 second exposures of it, 400 of them 🙃
so all in I will have 25 hours of integration on sadr, the equivalent in at f2.8 of just shy of 30 hours, plus 4 hours on a broadband target, a good new moon all in all
next month looking forward to going out to a B4 site for sure
That looks sick you got the extended spiral and ifn
Alright, so have we definitively concluded what the best duo narrowband filter for the roki is?
Atm its maybe idas nbz but when preshifted altair astro 4nm comes out it takes the throne
Any antlia garbage cant touch it even with a long stick
An Altair preshifted is coming?
I must say I really really love my nbz
Would I enjoy just killing all gradient forever with that 4nm? Yes
But the nbz is spectacular
And again telescopes.net has it cheap (just checked and they’re out of stock, hopefully just temporarily)
https://telescopes.net/idas-nbz-nebula-booster-filter-48mm.html
The IDAS NBZ 48mm filter is a nebula booster filter designed to be used with single-shot color cameras or monochrome astronomy camears to increase contrast in H-Alpha and Oxygen III nebulae.
This is the updated version of the IDAS NBX filter. It corrects the halo effect seen in the previous model by reducing internal reflections.
Feature...
there is no ETA but it is in the works
there is no gradients what so ever at bortle8 + half moon. its insane
i can send the stack if you want 😄
Yes do so
Do you use a regular with a regular scope or are you using one with your roki and accepting the band shift?
I suppose my only complaint with idas is their nonstandard thickness which may literally only annoy me in the entire world
i use it with my newt and refractor
and my 200mm lens needs to be stopped down to like f4
for fast stuff its the nbz. or maybe for a darksite since it has slightly more transmission i guess
@mystic loom this is unlinked autostretch
uploading stack
Good lord
also
1hour integration and some wings on m27
bortle8 + half moon
what the hell man
got my camera back today from repair

its 3.76 pixels + 518mm focal lenght
drizzled so divide the pixel size in half
2.7h Iris from B4 with gibbous moon last night @f2
Nice
Dayum
Stars are giga nice too
Think you need a armed guard for that roki
@mystic loom will come and steal it
for his hoard
lol
this is gorgeous for flat out f2
I'm still getting to know the real limits of my copy
I'm settling in at a very very light tightening -- using a 58mm step up / down ring set with inner diameter at 56mm
Bortle8
so f/2.4
took this last night, still collecting on it
finally found a corner of my yard that can shoot north
These stars were horribly abused by BlurX, pixel math, and multiple other interventions 😂
nice
Nbz still requires a lot of DBE
what bortle are you in again
Yeah the moon really gives a bad Oii gradient with my NBZ
I use sample size 128 pixels with 10 per row and a high tolerance, then subtract. Usually gets most of it.
That’ll look nice when you stack ‘em!
Will try that much aggression next time for sure
Smc @f2
Tweaked above Iris pic
Be cause it's f2 instead of f4.5
i don’t understand why something being widefield means it’s bad
Also the sensor you choose determines how wide your field is.
FF would be true 135mm
Aps-c is more so closer to 180-200mm
Sensors like the 585 and 533 bring the fov similar to around 300-350mm
so?
your missing my point
yeah. thats how focal lenght works
but its about the f stop
imaging at f2.8 instead of f4.5 is quite big difference
its 1 and 1/3 stops of light
it starts ramping up ALOT when you compare integration times
if you image 2hours at f2.8 is the same as like 5hours at 4.5 or something silly
180mm has a smaller fov
are they talking about aperture or focal length
I guess focal length
Bassicly the bigger the focal length the more zoomed in you are 😑
Wtf that's literally what I was just pointing out
Tbh I don't know what your point was to start with, you were asking why do people like the 135 f2 over the fma 180, but then proceed to disagree with half the things people are saying.
roki…
that most definitely was not clarified on the original question.
but yea Roki will be better tbh
"Why the roki would be good
Its so wide
than askar fma180 pro"
This sounded more like an interrogative question, like you were asking why people like the Roki over the 180 pro.
more focal length = smaller fov if your comparing with the same sensor.
yeah and you didnt understand it
smaller fov means its more zoomed in, which the 180 is.
FOV is usually measured in degrees, the smaller the measurement in degrees is, the more "zoomed" in it is.
roki
fma180
with canon apsc
this is roki with a imx585
sensor and pixel size matters alot too when choosing optics
if for example someone new to the hobby would slap a 585 to a 60mm f6 refractor
it would sample under 2 arcseconds per pixel and the untuned mounts probably wobble more
also i think the ACL200 F4 is better for the 24mpix canon asp-c camera. slightly faster and forgiving sampling rate. mounts will track with it worry free
ok details for images
cam?
Stock Canon Rebel T7
Yeah 12nm clip in filters
Highly recommend as a starting point if anyone has the SWSA 2i
Upgraded now with the RC51 II and the SWSA GTi but that old rig was amazing and perfect for travel
Great man I love it
Wish I could guide tbh
But it handles the weight of the RC a lot better than the old star tracker did
Its perfect if I were to add a small guide cam+scope and a dedicated cam
it has a lot of backlash for me when guiding
Fr?
yeah
Odd
other people have similar complaints but idk
Only reason I bought it was cuz my old mount fell ontop of itself and broke
Its got a little bit of trail unguided niw
At first it didnt
Might just be the batteries dying inside tho im not too sure
yeah i run it off of external power but idk
I couldnt even tell you why
i specifically got it because i felt constrained with my 72ed, I love being this wide without having to throw out my 533 for a $2k OSC, and the speed is a definite plus
I disagree with folks recommending rokis as a beginner lens because they're too annoyingly finicky for beginners and god knows I'd have quit if I started on a roki but when you know how to address tilt and assess the quality of one, it's worth the effort
this is not done yet - still battling a gradient and the background is visibly too red, but starting to take shape
yeah roki was/still is my first scope, I agree with what you’re saying about the quality control but I feel like about 90% of the time they’re at least decent; I rarely see any “bad” ones. But yeah I definitely love being widefield since it’s cheaper, easier, and widefield is honestly just pretty cool sometimes
mmm looks nice
i mean I know I'm horrifically ocd so that's on me probably
is this drizzled?
yeah 2x back down 0.9, then this was saved out at 50%
need to work on the stars a bit, i think with how I had the histogram starx picked up some green noise as stars
yeah, i feel like with our sampling it still feels very soft even when drizzled which is unfortunate
I think a fair amount of the softness is overagressive noise control because I really pushed it trying to fight a gradient
this is before noisex, definitely crisper
7, but with how low heart is in the sky I'd guess I'm shooting through an 8 light dome
really need to take my rig out to b4 or even 5 and just be blown away
i'm only a 35 min drive to B5 but that park at least officially kicks people out at 11pm
so kind of waiting until winter when I can get enough hours in on something to make it worth it
right
idk how i’m going to have ap work during school lol, i get home and i’m just so tired and then i have 4 hours of homework to do usually
as a parent, without the walled garden of zwo 'just works' i literally don't know how I'd do it
NINA drives me insane, i lose like an hour every time fighting with drivers
sometimes it feels like a cheat code using all their stuff but it's the only way
all I need is for zwo to make some kind of flat panel that asiairs support and I'd never have to walk outside again, lol
yeah i need to get one of those scope covers
but i’m worried about spiders and other animals/wind knocking it down
and honestly kind of want to spend money on other things besides astro lol
reMarkable Bundle 2 Notetaking Tablet | Marker Plus |12 Months Connect | 9 Spare Marker Tips | USB-A to C Cable | RM113 https://a.co/d/g28DZAQ
i’ve been thinking about getting this since i take a lot of notes
it’s like a screen but with the pen it has a feeling like you’re writing on paper since the glass is textured
500 bucks basically though
I first assumed mine wasn't fantastic, but it turns out my narrowband filter is just screwing with backfocus a little but
When using my uvir, I get round stars and pretty insignificant tilt
I really love the roki, it's been such a killer lens
Tbf, you put a lot more work into perfecting yours then a beginner would need to
Yeah that’s real
Assuming you get a half decent copy, I still think it is probably one of the best lenses/scopes to start off with
And especially if you’re not as light polluted as I am, you can afford to stop down
Excuse my typos, it's late lol
Oh absolutely
I never stop down unless I do stars. I just only do broadband from dark sites
yeah I'm starting to think that's my strategy too, not even bothering with BB from Phx proper
was at a conference last week and saw someone toting one of these around, looked decent
i need to write on one and see how it feels
many of the reviews say the texture is indescribable
can also just get an ipad and one of the textured protectors for it
but i’d love something like that so that i can take good notes and save them easily since college classes are note heavy
despite working in IT/data science still prefer paper because i'm old lol
hmm maybe, i’ve heard people say it’s just not the same
but the remarkable is nice in being devoid of extra distractions
I really like the feel of pen/pencil on paper, i own multiple fountain pens
the distractions were what got me
and i want to be like easily able to access my notes
a moleskine doesn't have web search to drag you away from what you meant to get done
yeah exactly
i don’t really get distracted in class but that’s just another plus
500 for it is definitely overpriced but
~premium~
i mean it is and it feels really nice, but there’s no way it’s 150 bucks
Look some more, you'll find some fantastic images... el em si, Dadillo, Caphe, stench, ryderdavid all have gotten great performance out of the 135.
The 180 pro is not bad by any means, but it doesn't collect light as fast. The difference in fov is not huge at all, and tbh you'd have a better time with that fast light collection than a much slower lens with a tiny bit more reach.
Shucks
My pics sucks. Havent had a good chance to image 
Now that my lens is fixed
did that one polaris dust pic untracked to test it out
It’s complete luck buying a new one, but if you buy second hand from an astro person you can ask for example images
Order it when clear skies are forecast. This is one of the few times I’d suggest ordering from Amazon lol, next day delivery so the forecast probably won’t change and hassle free returns too
It really isn’t as bad as it seems
Just send it back, easy
I know ordering from an astro store is better, but if you can order through Amazon you’ll get quick and easy delivery and returns if necessary. So you’ll be unlikely to be waiting long to rest it, and won’t be waiting long to get a new copy if you get a bad one
Ah fair enough, that’s quick tbf
I’d just order it when the forecast is looking good tbh. You don’t need perfectly clear skies to test it either, just a quick shot of the stars at various focal ratios
Indeed, but there’s nothing else like the roki really. There’s things which will perform well, but nothing that has good performance and F2. It’s worth getting a good copy on one
If you get a bad roki, you need to send it to sweden to the warranty repair place. Needs to have a clear and reproducable problem with it
Also its only cleared as ”warranty” when they try it. So you need to pay for shipping
if its not, there is a fee
Sucks
That is a pain
It’s quality control, or rather a lack of it
Its the same lens. Just quality control
Not really
The depth of field is so narrow to test corners
Samyang don’t do much quality control on the lenses (this is probably why they sell cheaper than other ones) so the focus hard stop can be in a slightly different place between lenses and the optical performance will vary between lens copies
photographers never notice bad corners, they just foam over bokeh
you can aim at polaris and do like 10 - 15sec exposure
15 might be pushing it with field rotation. 10s should be better
Generally though, it’s cheap for what it is. It’s much more expensive to buy another brand’s lens with similar specs
The 135mm definitely also has quality control issues, I had to send back my first copy so I can confirm it from experience
I wouldn’t overthink them though, it’s just important to know what you’re buying. You could very well end up with a good copy the first time, many people do
Check photonordic
My 135 had internal tilt. Warranty repair center replaced the front element
Surely in that case the front element would be defective so it would be free to repair under warranty?
All you can do is order one and see. As I said earlier, I wouldn’t stress about it as you might just get a good copy straight away
I think a fast camera lens is not a great first AP optic for everyone
Needs a special kind of nerd
Ok lets say. A fast telephoto
A simple 60mm doublet refractor is more straight forward to use
its a telescope 
Higher chance of getting some CA with camera lenses though
depends how good glass they use.
I know a great solution
Get the fma180pro
And dont forget the canon t-ring
good bye 
@gusty rock What mount do you want?
Camera mount on tje samyang
We're talking about the samyang here aren't we?
He's using Canon EF
Alright
I'd take the ACL200 tbh, 200mm is I bit more versatile.
A little faster than the 180 as well
But with more reach than the 135
Yea, should work just as well as the 135.
It's chunkier, but believe me it's wayyy lighter than a 60mm frac.
It's def not the heaviest lens either
There are lenses much heavier than it.
It's no problem for your GTI
Yii it's designed specifically for astro but should work fine for daytime photography.
Yea astro will cause anyone to realize their poor at some point lol.
see if you can get a raw image from the seller if buying used to check star quality
ah okay
Yeah I'm gonna either mod or upgrade soon
making some progress -- noisier because I had to pull an entire night of shots that for some reason ended up with an internal gradient, rather than fight it forever I'm going to just collect more with how many clear nights I seem to be having right now
this is just 18h integration, yanked out 7.3 hrs and the gradient was easier to clean up
It looks like you denoised luminance but not color? You may be able to balance the two out and gain back some detail.
i just ran deepsnr on it
I assume it's noisy on the blue channel because I used narrowband normalization which I believe ends up boosting the derived blue channel up to match the red (though I'm a little unclear of how it works) and OIII is obviously weaker
so all that boosted blue ends up looking noisy
(this is my guess)
in practice I've found that with my LP I can't really call a project done until I'm nearing 24 hrs on it, maybe even 30
how do you denoise color though?
"just 18h" 😳
I've got 16 hours on h and s I need to process lol
B7, B8 light dome 😦
I’m going to be blown away the first time I can escape this light
And or if that Altair pre-shifted 4nm filter ever comes out I’ve heard tell about
i need to start shooting again lol
How long would I need to image the heart nebula in bortle 2-3 using Sony a6000 stock and rokinon at 2.8f
Get as much as you can
Minimum of 2hrs for those conditions
Maybe 1hr since your not stopped down a lot.
You have the bortle to your advantage, but it still will be quite hard
I'd honestly go for at least 5 to get a good image. The dark nebulae should pop out nicely
Ok
found the offending shoot session - sep 25 must have had a bad flat and is why my images were looking bad in a weird way with MORE data after that date:
really need to remember to take flats 2x
i don't have any dust motes so seeing if the prior day's flat works on it
if it works I'm going to re run this set with this day back in (it's a lot of data, 6h 40 min) and I would consider myself done with some 30 hrs
might turn back to running split sessions on sadr and california, 3 hrs on sadr, rest of night on california each night
no dice, this is so weird
what do you all think would have caused this on a single night?
scope literally in same place for a week
so weird
dew?
i severely doubt it
dew point has been solidly 40 degrees below ambient
and it is in every capture from the start of the night to the end equally
and only that night
hmm i agree, only thing i could think of is something going on with flats
stray light?
Yea stray light can cause such a concentric ring I'm fairly certain.
Thinking like the moon or a nearby window that wasn’t covered or a floodlight that was on? (I don’t know of any, just grabbing at straws)
This is a new spot in my yard I have been experimenting with
So not super used to the lighting
Makes me think that it was probably a man made light, maybe I forgot to pull the blinds to my office that night
Since I’ve shot basically entirely around the moon and no other nights show it
I think this buster might finally be done
24.5 hours after reshooting one night and throwing out that night of 7 hours of that stray light
Ready for another shoot. I’m trying to squeeze in NA nebula before it’s gone for the year
Going to chip away at it four hours at a time each night for a while
I have a plan that does it and then swings over to California nebula for the remainder of the night to just keep@at that one as a freebie
coming along nicely
nice process
the colors make it feel like a dream
gives that feeling
Thanks gang
Just need to figure out how to reduce the color noise in the bg when I go HOO
Lots of blue flecks
chrominance acdnr usually works well for that
Taking the roki out for a change
Can confirm the backfocus is bad
Within 0.03mm and its flaring towards middle
2min sub
that moon is killing you
Yep should have gone with the 200mm and 4nm filter
yeah
Or newt. Seeing is exellent
yeah backfocus sucks for me too idk why
Next time ill go with the 4nm and z61 or newr
Rly cba with bad stars again
My stars looked amazing with the 1mm thick baader filter in
how are you attaching your filter
Drawer
Keeping a extra slider with me to PA, slew and frame with some uv/ir cut or broadband filter
Muchos faster
Keep shooting man trust
That framing is perfect for the 135 this is what I got in two panos
Dont look at the stitching
Is there a cheap way to attach Sammy to a ZWO camera? (Nikon F mount)
well, its AP accessory taxed but i use the ZWO nikon F to M42 filter drawer. its great.
i recommend getting the filter draw one
I think that may be the only option for the Nikon version too
since the M48 bayonet that some of us use is for canon mounts
Yep and the drawer is great
This is execellent (if you can fix the reflection). What camera was used with the Roki to get this?
2600 
Really big pics
Some strange artefacts with the stars too?
How hard is getting good enough stars on that?
Yeah its backfocus and something else idk
With long subs they flare more and more.
I know for a fact my Roki can get good enough stars on full frame with 6 micron pixels. Now with the 533 I seem to get similar stars because backfocus is off.
Gonna click it down with the blades next
I want a canon mount Roki ngl.
Or flock the aperture mask
I actually like the effect of the blades on the bright stars with the roki tbh
So I can do the screw mod
@fallow stirrup I might wish to purchase your Roki. Seeing as you hate it so much.
What
Why would I hate it if it’s the only lens I use for dso
Stench said he hates his roki
You’ve said a lot of times you hate the wideness of it
Yes and I stopped
For the greater good
He doesn’t hate his Roki. He hates his F2 Roki.
No backfocus with any F2 system is an absolute nightmare
I stopped saying I hated my roki a while ago
Once I finally got images I could accept as decent I stopped
Hmmm and does bigger pixels make it even harder?
It makes it easier
Hides imperfections
Can’t decide what I want to buy next. 571 mono or a big mount, at or above EQ8 tier for my dob.
In the future I want something like a 120mm esprit
For now prob not but if your willing to wait some time if I get something better I could prob sell it for a fair price
Rn my roki is like my only decent lens i can use for ap
Oh
But you have a very nice copy. So I am tempted
I thought you were kinda serious as I haven’t mentioned my hating ever since I learnt to spent more then 1 night on a target
I just want mono at F2 
571 is a insane sensor goddamn
it has zero imperfections
Not hard at all with a real scope
But at f2 - 2.8 idk. Atleast tilt adjust. The aliexpress shim kit is god tier though
Etched the sizing on em
I think I might get the 571 color from the meow discord since I could probably sell it for close to what I bought it for in a year or two since it’s so much cheaper there
and then go mono
Tempted to sell some lenses and get a acl200
ill image with the canon stopped to 3.6 - 4 and see if i can shim, blurx and massage the data
as a bonus i can use a tighter bandpass with it
The 12nm was kinda meh with giga moon + light pollution
yeah use your altair 
its so good for my bortle. Ill just use the roki for darksite broadband
Cam is uv/ir cut stock so no shimming for that
sure as shit better designed to focus at infinity
and more emphasis on getting fully corrected flat field
its small
its just not as fast collecting data
but for my light pollution i can use a really narrow filter with it
that might help alot compared to extra speed
idk. you will end up spending more money on the roki than acl
for the acl you only really need a t-ring and for the roki you need mounting rings
you want to be able to rotate the lens for framing the target
the acl has a rotator
also a rail for a guider
just polar align really really well and you can do allright unguided
looking at it now. should i grab it 
kek
gonna ask from nokk how much from china
what you really should do is decide what kind of pictures you want to take
and what sort of scope it needs
download stellarium and add a bunch of scopes in
i got bunch of camera lenses, scopes like z61, 80mm f6 triplet, 400mm lens, 6" newt, sct's
and such
added theyr redurcers too and a bunch of cameras
it can be good, but you are screwed if its not. best roki is second hand with sample pics
sample variation. some are made better than others
i had to send mine to sweden to the official repair place for warranty. its still not amazing
if you buy something for actual astro use and it gives bad stars or has CA
you can return it
for a photography lens they probably dont care
ye well. usually its so minor its not visible even when saturated
its not that simple
i have a APO scope. its a doublet with FPL53 glass
has some CA but its super minor
one pixel wide at the top and one pixel wide at the bottom of stars. top can be blue and bottom something else
basicly no ca for me.
a 2nd hand redcat would suit the sw gti u got too
petzval, super sharp, rotator, dovetail, finder backet
actually pretty damn light
thats why a 2nd hand. im not gonna pay the RRP for one of those
WO stuff is too expensive in the EU
@worthy grove looking better with a bunch of better calibration data and restacked
thats nice
gonna leave it like this if i dont image more
Think 2 minutes
25 hours, finally got rid of the gradient
love the OIII showing up, but not sure I love how magenta NarrowbandNormalization makes the red
Added f/5.6 stars to my f/2 m31 (45 mins) and Iris
Roki is nice and sharp stopped down
My idiocy knows no bounds
Bought a Nikon 180mm f2.8 ED for cheap
probably amazing or a total waste of money
Its the autofocus version before they swapped to plastics
So good optics and metal housing
🙏please be decent
Gotta be pretty good at f3.5 at least.
ye well it was half price what they were listed elsewhere. and those were plastic body ones
it has a dented filter thread but i got a tool to fix it
mm in theory it should be a lens to shoot stars stopped down and wide open the rest
it has some CA but stopping down reduces star sizes and easy defringe click in lightroom
highly regarded lens what i read about it
Mostly purple fringe?
purple yea
i could just do the whole deal wide open and process the star layer separate
Do "invert" - "SCNR" - "invert" again
yeah i know that trick
Better results than Lightrooms dodgy CA remover
there is slightly more involved sncr combo to process dual narrowband stars too to look more pleasant colour
cant remember it. but it made the red fringing stars orange and the green ones more blue i think
You know calibration in Lightroom?
Or Camera RAW
i only have lightroom
Either one
Ahh
Yea Lightroom will work I think
Using red primary and shifting it to the right will correct duoband stars.
the lightroom defringe is allright. i just do the unscreened stars there and open it back up in pix to screen back
May take two passes, and a bit of magenta added.
ill try that sometime
gonna try shoot some broadband since its new moon
hope i get some clear
its gonna be a absolute mess at my bortle though
Supposed to be clear tn
Gotta get darks for like two nights ago
And more soul data for my heart and soul mosaic
cant you fit that in one go
i kinda want to zoom in the middle of heart neb with my newt
Melotte 15 is sick
yea
dual nb that one
need to go grab some distilled water
i had some organic debree drop in my primary and i had to wash it
something from a tree or plant
Best I could get at 360mm
just soap, alcohol and tap water treatment now. need to get the water stains off with distilled water
lemme check my newt framing
all this at 1.5"/px sampling
IMX533 is tragic sometimes
but it would do the job
Yii, especially coming from my DSLR along with it's 5.2 um pixels
this is on a roki/533 pair? what is your camera, and what was your orientation angle?
Roki/183mc color - angle was like 180 degrees in Nina (camera was horizontal at zero position on my mount)
Just got an imx571 secondhand so 183 may not be used much anymore 😉
Do you focus manually? Or do you use an EAF?
Cause them stars are sharp 
EAF
imx571 so good. might need to do some fiddling with the z61 if you have the reducer
I figured, manual focus would be difficult to get that good. What EAF you suggest?
i found that mine started to show some weirdness in the corners. might be my cam too, suspecting its not 17.5mm backfocus in the cam
more like 16.5 or 17
I have the standard ZWO one - I use a BlackCAT adapter with my redcat ring
I have a redcat - no reducer for me 🙂 - I do expect some wonky stars in the corners though.
Redcat and Roki
And an AT6RC
i think the fullframe corrected stuff is better with aps-c
the redcat probably decent
the fast lens might need massaging in full moon nights to get it sorted
Yup
I have the unfortunate habit of getting tired of targets before I get enough integration time on them 
May try again with Shinpah’s IMX571 😉
Tired of the 183mc mottling
same
@hazy copper supporting the camera with its own ring seems goated
Start printing son
I’ve definitely thought about this
The bayonet has a bit of wobble
However I don’t have much noticeable tilt, just coma. Need to try shimming.
I have a mild side to side tilt that only affects like 2pixels in the CA
The tilt also visible in the vignetting
I wonder how effective looking at the vignette is for analysing tilt.
It should give a rough idea
Ye well ill show a example when im home
What’s this thing ?
ASTAP and using image inspection
its okay for big problems in backfocus or tilt
Small ones not really
Hm might give it a go
helo
Oh yeah it is
You getting these from Rock Thrill or driving out?
Excellent… what Bortle is that? My usual astronomy field 1h away is B4 but the “good” one is B3
B4 as well!
How long is the exposure time of both?
Just to stop this from dying
Lol I would love to pair the 1600mm with a Roki, highspeed mono setups go crazy.
Is it @mystic loom 
Could lmao
guys are rokis worth it ? i wanna get one to use with my guiding , L enhance and uranus c pro , but i’m getting told i could get a bad copy
Either you get it used by someone that has a good copy or you do it the @mystic loom way and try until you get a good copy amd return the rest
yeah i ordered one when i was getting my fjrst rig , couldn’t test it tracked but got told it was a bad copy and returned my roki for a zs61 lol
100% worth it IMO, but if you're not okay returning a copy or two then it's probably not for you
yeah i’d like to get one
tbh maybe just wait for a second hand one to come up and ask for test shots at f2.8 or faster
yeah
2.5H
This target seems to have been in all of our minds this season it seems xD
I'm gonna try a little mosaic around meissa this year, if the weather permits it
Wow this is superb! I still remember your orion shot from last year.. it was epic. You using the 533 for this?
if i were to get a roki and use it with a uranus c pro , could i get any lense ? eg a canon or nikon one ?
i really wanna get one , the images you guys produce are amazing , but i already have a zs61 but my camera has too big of a crop to do widefield nebulae
as long as you buy the correct adapter you can
one for the correct lens mounting
oh okay thankyou , i can email flo
Correct. I’ll be reshooting most of this stuff this year.
I am the recent owner of the samyang 135 and had first light a couple of nights ago! The night itself wasnt meant to be clear and im pretty sure there might have been high clouds when imaging.
The andromeda and pleiades are both 30 minute stacks made of 30" exposures with an asi224mc. The other is a 1 hour stack on the heart nebula. To me it looks like its not at critical focus but I was really trying to get the star as small as possible when focusing. Is backfocus still an issue if you can go past the focus point? My other thoughts is that dew might have formed on the lens but the stars seem the same from the first exposure to the last, or the high clouds caused the bloat. The last thing I can think of is to use a uv/ir cut filter to reduce star bloat?
Normally I would troubleshoot these things myself but as the weather here in Ireland is so cloudy all the time I figured I may as well ask some people who may be able to solve this before my next imaging session.
you need a uv/ir cut filter
that should sort out your star bloating 😄
Yeah, was hoping that wasnt going to be the solution 😦
They are $10
wait, like the svbony ones? When I was researching all I saw people recommend were the Astronomk L1,2,3 which are like $150
the SV bony one works absolutely fine yeah
i have one, it doesn't produce halos or anything
Nice, thats a relief 😄
I think that depends on where you insert it in your image train
The zwo one is slightly better, I’ve had both. The SVbony is specced better, however is clearly worse when doing a comparison. The SVbony advertises a higher transmission percentage but the zwo is visibly clearer. Yet to compare both to my optolong uvir.
Ok, stupid question. But how do you know if you got a bad one? The optics aren't right?
There are various issues that can come up. Some won’t reach infinity focus because there’s a hard lock on the focuser, some have coma/bad stars in the corners (particularly at fast f-ratios) and some have chromatic aberration. You can’t really know about those without testing it in the field, and sometimes the issues can occur with different severity between copies
Any optical issues should be apparent in your images, or can be seen using something like the aberration inspector in Pix
Is this a good one then? Sorry, I'm new to all of this. And didn't see anything noticeable. It's two 3minute subs and 1 dark frame.
Bit of tilt top left, very slight purple CA but hard to tell with this weird compressed image.
7/10 copy.
Well crap. I got it from B & H too. Damnit.
whats wrong with it? i can barely tell from your image......
its a good one
Does anyone here who uses digicam control know what causes the temp error
That’s what it looks like
Is this the right thing?
Yep!
yes , this sounds stupid but make sure you get it for your camera , i got one before and nearly ordered it for the wrong camera
i sent it back tho as i wanted a scope
I trust B&H for quality, but I'll test it still
How do I know if the stars are good though? I currently have absolutely horrid star comas so I have no reference as either way this lens will be much better (my star comas can be 3x as big as the star)
B&H has nothing to do with korean lens quality assurance methods
What you can do is check the return policy for b&h
A fast f2 lens can have a bunch of camera tilt and backfocus stuff to sort out though to get really good performance
Modern sensors and pinpoint light sources take no prisoners
Oh yeah my bad
Will do
Atleast in europe if you buy online there is minium 14days and the seller can offer more return time. If you walk into a shop and buy something over the counter, zero returns
Do consider finding one used on cloudy nights as you could likely get a couple subs from the seller showing the real world star performance.
I saw one on CN for 380 USD.
Thats is indeed the best solution
Testing time

Rebel T7
I'm testing with Heart and Soul + dual narrowband + double Perseus cluster
I feel like I see a ton of people using the T7 with Rokis
Must be a fairly popular DSLR
Is the T7 modded?
I want to get it HAlpha modded, it is not currently
Let me know when you get it modded/buy an astrocam...
...for no particular reason
Here's the F/2 top right corner, is this good? (For Roki)
I don't know if focus is perfect
No batinov
Bad compression... doesn't look awful for f2
hard to tell but it looks ok
Focus may be a tad off
split the channels and see if all channels are sharp
that's coma but is normal at f2
There is coma
Yeah
Do you want to see my old corners?
They're uhh
I'll just show them
my field in a corner of a 20m sub
Compression is very bad yeah
this is juicy tho
Are you imaging rn?
This was my other lens
Not Roki
That's what I had to deal with
Oh lmao, good
The tails are 5x as big as the stars lol
Also the Roki middle has perfect circles for me
It's hard to see anything star shape wise with that compression
iso -1
yes
nah just gain 100
Please don’t actually shoot in jpg
yes
Some of my fave Rock'n On 135 captures of 2023. 🦾 🦾 🦾
Polaris ifn looks sick
very nice
Is there a bahtinov mask template for the Roki? Like a paper cutout or is there a 3d print file?
There are some on thingiverse, I printed mine
outstanding
beautiful
mind blowing
mesmerising
sexy
astonishing
these photos will get 10 likes on tiktok or any social media platforms
but these get 50k
but all jokes aside , beautiful images
I expect nothing more from TikTok lol


