#Rokinon/Samyang 135mm discussion
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We gotta Z61 owners thread if you wanna join - #1075625173585252362
thankyou š
it didnāt no , i have to buy it separately but itās not biggie , i can do a few days work
About step down rings: do they introduce strong vignetting on this lens?
They do if stepped down a lot but it can be corrected with flats
I use them cause I hate the roki blades on stars, but also my specific copy seems to benefit from a stepdown ring cause my CA is decreased so much I'm shooting at f2.3
Is that 58mm aperture then?
58mm actually
Ah I see
This was probably asked before and sorry in advance but what's the difference between the good ol' roki and the Samyang 135mm T2.2 VDSLR ED UMC
That shouldnt make it unfit for photography sould it?
I use it and the body is the same size and shape so it still works with any ring systems (eg astrodynium) the only differences is the focus and aperture rings for example instead of a rubber grip there are teeth for a follow focus and the declicked aperture wheel but there are clear markings so it works perfectly for me
How is your lenses' star performance?
Wide open at t2.2 the stars aren't perfect (for me QC is hit and miss) but 99% of the time i shoot at t2.8 and stars are sharp and round
The only reason i go the cine version is that I bought it from a shop and because it is quite specialty they ordered it in for me and after paying for it and everything they said it was discontinued which was just a lie and they instead gave me the cine version
Oof xD
That sounds like the regular roki
Well im just assuming they are the same
and that I was just lucky to get a good copy
since they are optically the same
Nice to know, thanks
Do you happen to have a abberations inspection lying around?
No sorry
never used it to be honest
You guys see the new Uranus C pro
Aside from many upgrades and proper tec cooling, its just straight eye candy.
Carbon fiber with black and red accents.
š
I know a lot of you guys got the 585 / Roki setup
This would look so sick with a roki
It does look awesome and seems good value too!

Almost tempted to ādowngradeā from my 533, such an ugly camera.
Is it a downgrade? I mean aside from the bit depth
Yeah it is. Lower bit depth and smaller sensor. But not in sexiness.
The sensor is only smaller in height, so technically no light loss, but for mosaics it obviously would require more panels.
You know they also make the 533 version that also looks sexy AF?
@hazy copper Does the Uranus C come with a uvir cut?
The normal 533 pro looks very sexy imo
Paired with the roki and a guide scope at least
Just gotta get the proportions right
Oh yeah I also got a 533
It is very epic
Could see a ton of detail on the veil neb in a single sub using the l enhance
I think I'll get the Touptek IMX 585 then
You donāt want a permanent uvir cut though. What if you do ir imaging
Planetary or deep space
Idas gnb
Or be cool and get the p1 cooled 585

could be the next goated cam
is p1 making an actual cooled 585
oooo
thanks didnt see it
I like it
Why should the uvir be harmful though? I only need the visible spectrum and the filter goes from 400-700
(I really don't think I'll ever do IR)
Why buy a camera that limits you? If you have any chance of doing planetary IR is nice to have. You can get a nice boost in detail on planets or the moon with ir.
And the idas gnb is great. Shoot galaxies in light pollution.
I'm not sure how much this is, but I'd highly consider looking for a used 533
You can usually get them for under 700 (I got one for 650 with adapters, filters, shipping, etc) and it's overall a slightly better camera then the 585
That's especially true if you prefer larger sensors
Surely you will do dual NB though at some point? You ideally wouldn't want a uv/ir as well in front of that? Just seems odd to want an integrated one when you can optionally add your own pretty cheaply
I think a used 533 and a new uranus-c pro will be around the same price?
I do, can't I put that in front of the uvir?
What?š Not in Germany I suppose
You can but the IR will cut some of of the Ha wavelengths which you don't want
Basically for broadband targets I use my uv/ir filter and for nebula (Ha rich targets) I use my dual narrowband filter, I woulnt ever combine them, If you but integrated you are forced to and you are loosing some of that precious Ha
https://player-one-astronomy.com/product/uranus-c-pro-usb3-0-color-camera-imx585/
$549 new.. I think thats probably around the price of a used 533? @hazy copper got one recently so he would know
I was gonna get the old model for 400
And the Touptek 585 is 370
Fair point..
The cheapest 533 sensor I could find is 750
Perhaps if I wait long enough I'll find one
Yeah fair enough, I havent looked into second hand 533s much
Touptek are always good value, just make sure you get it from somewhere that isn't a pain with returns, but $549 for a new uranus-c cooled is amazing i think
But are you that dissatisfied with your Uranus?
The Touptek is also fan cooled
No, its brilliant, but not cooled, If I could buy now id get the pro. Im not going to nbow as I have the standard though
Ha is at about 656, no?
And if the filter has a cutoff at 700nm, how do they interfere?
How about the Saturn C, it has the same sensor and is a tad cheaper
at that price I'd save up another 250 for a 571 sensor touptek
Fair, looking at the 20% Vat+ extra fees, that idea kinda resolved itself
Has anyone imaged M16? How visible are the pillars at this focal length?
obviously pretty small
If this is to be trusted, a mini sensor might deliver interesting results https://www.astrobin.com/412981/?q=m16 samyang 135
Interesting, can probably get some decent detail with drizzling then
A challenge worthy of your attention!
can get the omega nebula and some milky way in there too
If itās a good uv/ir filter it shouldnāt, but thereās a lot of reasons for not wanting to double up
Something to do that there's more glass in the imaging train?
Did it the other night. This is a 5 min sub. With 533mc
nice
. On the sa gti?
Yep
solid
Also got these two. I am yet to learn narrowband editing or try adding RGB data
I've just been trying that myself. I found Bill Blanshan videos to be great for this. Also his pixelmatch scripts make it a breeze if you use PI
Iāll check them out cheers
Wow these are incedible... single subs?
I also got a few hours of narrowband on lagoon. Hereās a sub. I have a few hours of RGB data with my Uranus C. Might be able to combine them.
24m for LMC and 4 hours for prawn
Wow, I thing 24 min under your skies is the equivalent of 12hrs under mine š¦ Ill also concede that maybe the 533 is better than the uranus-c. The noise control there is great
Honestly I havenāt been blown away by the 533
I donāt like the square framing at all, although itās somewhat useful for framing.
Artistically I hate it
The noise level is meh. Yet to do a side by side comparison but I suspect itās pretty similar.
The deeper wells are nice though.
If I had paid full price for the 533 I might have regretted it. The 533 seems a bit overrated.
I got it used though. So half price.
Yeah fair enough, i still love the 585 tbh and am unlikely to upgrade any time soon
Fair enough. Itās perfectly capable for everything most people want
With the 135mm the sensor size isnāt an issue. Itās like 250mm equivalent framing so not bad at all. The resolution is good too
well i have a new scope now to try with it (the tak fs60-cb) which should be great for those small objects like galaxies, may need to give my az-gti a service first though
I dont think I will be ditching the 135 though. There is something about the widefield shots I love
So many targets simply arenāt possible with anything longer lol
In this video I am providing two pixelmath scripts that allow you to add Ha to an RGB image. Below is the download link. One thing I want to add; when you process your RGB image, you may not want to add saturation before adding Ha. You may want to add saturation until after you add the Ha data, this way both the RGB and HA data can be even...
lookin good, this with the ALP-T?
Yup
f/2.2 vs f/3.5
Is the higher SNR worth the decrease in sharpness?
Depends how much clear sky you have. Sometimes I just shoot wide open. Although my copy is very good. If you have the time go for the F3.5 and get a few times the data
recently very little clear sky, I might compromise with f2.8 and see how that looks
Good idea. F2 vs F2.8 is double the light. So half the time needed to get an image.
I normally use F2.8. Unless Iām shooting something faint.
So I entered the Samyang and the 585 into Stellarium and the effective focal lenght looks something like 350,can that be?
How much time is this?
Pretty much that framing yes
Hereās my FF dslr vs the Uranus C. 10 hours with the dslr and 8 hours with the Uranus.
uncropped?
The Uranus is technically 4 hours because I shot at F2.8
Pretty much yeah. Uranus had the left and right edges cropped slightly
Is there any difference between the uranus c with its low (8 mp I believe?) resolution and a lets say 24mp apsc cropped to that 8mp resolution?
The smaller pixels will give a resolution boost depending on your optics
I found I got a significant one. Check the images above
It will be roughly 120-140% sharper with the Uranus.
each is around 4 hours
I see
If I'm not wrong it'll also have a Cropfaktor of about 3,37
That would also require some mighty tracking accuracy wouldn't it
4.45" per pixel. naaah
if you put the 585 on lets say a 360mm FL scope to sample around 1.6"/pixel the small tracker might wobble too much and subs are ruined
6 1/2 hours on dragons of ara and 4 hours ish on SMC.
Running the same sequence tonight
Then getting broadband after moon leaves
imagine this with a compact lens setup

What mount is that?
the new UMi mini/lite
looks nice and compact compared to a typical mount
easy to travel with and not breakable
good shape to stuff in a bag. no counterweights to even think about
Yup, hope guiding is good though
its similar / same as the bigger one or am5 etc
It uses a different Dec motor
just does not have the stiffness of the big units when there is a big windsail of a scope on
So no newts?
well ye. if the weight is ok
i did ask them since the payload capacity and performance are almost same on paper
its smaller and half the weight
the cost is really stability with big scopes with wind gusts and such. more likely to throw a sub with the small one if there is a newt on 
Where can these be purchased? And what are the specs?
ill send you a invite so you can chat with the users and the people making them 
I asked Meow in the meow discord and he said it can handle an 8ā newt
13kg capacity without counterweight, 20kg with counterweight
Yeah I have a 6", so would be even easier
This looks dope, any price?
dont actually know. there was a special price for first 10 units but they are gone. 25 sold out of 30 units and they are going to make more atm. you should hop into theyr discord to ask the harder hitting questions 
Ight
$1360 including shipping
ye that offer had also paypal fee and stuff covered
dunno what he meant by tax too. does not really understand how importing works to some eu countries
so ye. i need to definately pay VAT. got the original bigger mount tho, never need to really upgrade 
the eq base is no joke
I thought it was a reused star adventurer eq base for a min lol
Wait
Are you referring to the base in the photo above, the red one?
Or one they offer?
this one
Weigh 1.2kg, payload capacity 30-40kg, declination -3° to 67°. CNC machined
bit puzzled about how is it sold now and in the future. like what is included
since i think they are making it with a integrated wedge soon i hear
so the one that has the option to use that one (good for transport) might not be included but its unbeatable priced for an accessory 
I will probably go for a built in wedge
Uranus C more likely, I know Lux has the pro
Same sensor obviously so results can be compared as far as final images.
I think he has the ares
Now that you mention that makes more sense
Yeah he has the ares
Lots of people have the normal uranus c... the only real difference that I know of is the cooling, but I don't know a ton about it.
yeah thatās fine , my uranus c pro is meant to be here tomorrow
same problem as my lens, but just half less
The tilt?
why is the pic portrait
Hmm yeah looks a tad bit worse
I was hoping with the smaller sensor it wouldn't be as evident
With bigger pixels it hides it
With smaller ones. Takes no prisoners
hard to see with my canon 5d2 subs but the same stuff is there
Yeah that thing's got huge pixels
maybe shooting the squid during the full moon wasnt the best idea 
How much integration time is this?
What filter do you use for that?
alp-t
Are the halos manageable?
some dont have bad halos, mine has semi-bad ones, I got a highspeed ALP-T that had terrible haloes that I sent back
thats 9hrs? 
yup
or is it just cropped in alot
could be worse noise from the moon
i had a really bad case once. looked like lizard scale pattern š
i did too long subs at m45, histogram way too exposed and the moon was up
I cant wait until winter objects come up
havent done anything with my roki on winter objects
yeah, usually people are fedup with the easy winter targets
but now i want em back š
also doesnt help that ill probably get like 3 clear nights in winter lol
yeah. there are sometimes a moment of calm to image once or twice
then 1-2 days next month
when fall changed over to winter. there was decently clear nights. same with winter to spring
but not mid season nono
yep thats normally how it goes lol
and also for me in the eastern US, smoke has ruined some clear nights
When considering possible dnb filters for this lens, I figured it would be the best to just use a 12nm filter to avoid band shift on this fast lens. Are there any easier methods with comparable price?
IDAS NBZ
I use my ALP-T stopped down to 3.5 with stepdown rings
could use NBZ at f/2
Does the same apply to usual uvir cut filters?
bandpass shift?
Well probably not, dumb question
But is there anything I have to watch out for or can I just get the cheapest one?
And the bandpass shift is negligible with the 12nm?
probably doesnt matter too much but some are better than others, ZWO one is cheap and works fine
I'll probably stick to svbony, if there aren't any negative reviews on it
not sure but
heard some ur/ir cut filters can also do some halos
i got a optolong one and its fine
one of my cams has uv/ir cut window. praying to jesus it wont halo. probably wont since the replacement part is priced same as the more expensive uv/ir cut filters
It's the opposite in eastern us, get more clear nights in winter than summer. We have really lame ass winter snows/storms.
Thanks I'll keep an eye put for that
what do you mean more clear nights in the winter lol
as soon as november hit it was the cloud apocalypse
and it didnt start to clear up until may
Ayo, I usually get a couple nights a week during the winter, rn I haven't had a clear night in like 3 weeks
4 weeks tbh
i didnt get any clear nights in the winter barely
ive had plenty of "clear" nights this summer, but smoke ruins them so i dont image
at the veryy least ive had 1 clear night per week
Yii smoke didn't help, where in the east are you?
yeah same, barely any clear nights in winter in west PA
only noticeable clear bits are when seasons change
for me
had few clear nights at xmas 2022
Can confirm
Though it honestly depends on the year. Last year was clear a lot of the time, this summer so far has been very shaky
Are you southeast?
more so yii, NC
noice, I feel like were in a sweet spot in the US. We have almost zero lethal earthquakes/torados/fires, and were not near the coast to be in the path of sunamis or high water levels in general.
also weather in general is nothing extreme
great lakes, michigan
oh yea that explains everything 
my dad went there for college
He said the snows were several feet on average
Yeah weather wise it's pretty nice
Just very hot and humid sometimes.
The people and culture and stuff... bit of a different story
Yes 
So uhh
I found someone that sells the nbz for a rather reasonable price
But only with this system that's design for RASA telescopes xD
Is there any way it would work on a samyang and astro cam as some sort of filter drawer? xD
would need to research more. but it looks like its a 2" filter in a specialised slider
you can get blank 2" filter cells and just put the glass in there
Hmm yeah that'd prolly work, just need to convince him to just sell me the glass š
its abit bothering me i cant find information how big the glass is
You should check the nebula photos videos where he tests different filters. Think the opens them up to measure everything. Including the diameter of the glass
So you get and idea how big a 2ā filter glass is inside the housing
Sorry i gave you this idea on a hunch. I dont have concrete evidence everything will fit
They sell some 49mm unmounted filters
@solid raptor abort. the 2" filter glass in the housing is around 46mm diameter 
You think the gentleman gave me false information?
I already asked him about it again
well i watched a video where Nico took some glass out of the housings and measured em
a 49mm unmounted filters do exists and idas makes them.
the sizes were like 45.94mm etc to dropin to a 2" housing 
ur best bet is to find a filter on the correct size instead of trying to find a bargain to make due
adapting the filter drawer to a astro cam and getting thread adapers, bayonet mount and spacers for correct backfocus.
ur a the same price as a brand new filter
Well, if I got the zwo filter drawer, I`d be good to go and sould be in ok backfocus with the other accessories the camera comes with
Is it Nicos filter review you are talking about?
Ill have a look at it
i mentioned it because he actually took apart filters and measured the glass diameter
so can compare the weird rasa silder if the glass would transplant over. but its too big
Can you link the video?
All test results from this video are up on: https://astrofilters.com
New to filters? watch my intro video: https://youtu.be/ys-28z4qTYw
My review policy video: https://youtu.be/RvN2d9wLR3I
Supporting this channel:
⦠I'm on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nebulaphotos
⦠One-time donati...
after 8minute mark he starts measuring
Hmmm we'll see tomorrow exactly how much it is
waste of money if it cant be made to work
correct
Someone revive the roki forum
Carbon fibre dew shield gives you +10 masculine points
i made mine from a plastic bottle with a heatgun
oh yeah and some velour and electical tape

made it out of an old folder lol
that the canon 200 f2.8?
yea 
simple fit into the redcat ring. made some shims
Sharp as hell
I need some l glass
But I'd get a Roki before l glass.
there is some "cheap" l glass i want but
i know they are not giga sharp
like the 300mm f4
some company gotta start making f/2-2.8 lens designed for astro
yeah
dreaming of a f2.8 or 3.2 redcat
then a accessory extender for it to like f4.5 or something
the dream
we need a 400mm f/2.8 that isnt $12,000 
would probably costs absurd money like the Borg scopes
some of those super fast l glass is abit old 
I mean I guess theres RASA 8
like the 400mm f4 is supposedly really really sharp. but id get a refractor over that
yeah
or f/4 noot
some of the insane fast glass is from the late 90's. probably some wicked CA with astro work.
who knows. way too expensive to even consider taking a risk
time for some astrobin 
used off astromart
the msrp hovers around 589 - 599 for me. i got mine for 489 or something brand new 
nice
this ones in perfect condition, ive already flocked and painted reflective bits
Mono and narrowband filters revive old glass, worth a shot
and i ordered a new spider, mirror mask, and back plate
yeah thats fun to do
is it the chinese one from aliexpress?
This was with a Nikkor Q 200mm f/4 from the 60s
the cnc'd one
yep lol
12nm Ha filter with my dslr
honestly that looks a fine profuct
we shall see
i still need to dust off my scope
i lint rolled the velour like mad. and theres some dust on my mirror now 
nothing flats cant handle
yeah i suck with flats though
nice. i wonder i could get older FD glass that is any decent
Yii FD could be better possibly, it's hilarious cause that 200mm lens doesn't focus with my Canon or Nikon DSLRs using no filter or even my CLS, only focuses with my Ha filter. Comes into focus at the infinity mark... Exactly. Don't even have to check focus night to night.
mm yeah already spotted a adapter for FD lenses to mount astrocams
Noiccee, I wanna slap that Uranus C pro on my 200mm
300mm f.2.8 FD is 799 
has filter slider for 48mm screw on filters wtf
these are beaten up though and riskyest things ever
has fluorite 
Canon 300mm f2.8 L FDn Manual focus fast long telephoto prime lens for FD mount SLR cameras released by Canon in 1981. Part of the top-of-the-line L series. This is the latest design which used the new mounting system and utilized both UD glass and fluorite crystals, artificially grown to suitable sizes (for use in photographic lenses), to minim...
Thing is massive
yeah its 2345grams
imagine getting that and it has bad aberrations or CA
then you are stuck with a obsolete lens
Nah I'm using that thing for wildlife till I die
https://www.astropix.com/html/equipment/c300mm.html
yeah so. older glass is the biggest gamble. even old EF glass that was made when sensors were still super bad
now we have gear to get all the nasty flaws out
Canon EOS EF 300mm f/2.8 L USM IS Astrophotography Tests
Honestly with mono astro cams using rgb filters you can technically avoid CA. Astrobiscuit did it with that Orion ST80 if I remember correctly.
ye
think he is lucky imaging with a cheap 150/750 achromat frac
using a borg super reducer
bringing it down to like f3.6 
it was in some BAT meeting vod
Oh yea I haven't been in one of those lol
those are chonky scopes and quite cheap
Roki is wild
What changed between your first edit? This one lools much more vibrant
Lots of masked curves adjustments, sat boosts, histogram transformations, etc
@uneven compass what was the focal ratio btw?
Yeah your edit in the comp channel looks miles better than the first one as well
Which one do you all think is better?
Pretty much the same, just more stretched on the right
1 
Yeah I think I'm with you there
That surrounding Ha is dope af
I need to get a Roki to pair with a SW SA GTi.
If they come out with a mono 585... š„
Mosaic beast.

mosaic with a small 8mpix sensor
4 sets of flats per panel
how about. bigger sensor. no mosaic needed
Better sampling
4 sets?
per filter
The mono 533 exists
Yea, but... 1k
i think wanting 2.9um pixels over 3.76 is not that big of a deal when the imaging area would increase by a landslide
using a 571
Oh yii for mono lol
Again it would be around 649 (considering 585 cooled color is 549) vs 1k for 533mm. Not to mention 571 even more.
Maybe a used 294MM is an option
touptek 
533 is def nicer for mosaics cause of the 1:1 aspect ratio, but budget is what I had in mind.
Def cheaper
well. bigger is bigger. asp-c will do 4 of those 585 panels at once. or maybe even slightly more
insane time savings for bigger projects 
idk. not much mosaic stuff planned for me.
maybe if i image heart nebula with the newt i might frame it to add the soul as a mosaic later
if its doable on separate nights 
Dam toupteks 533 mono is still 870, lowest may be 800. If I could find one used... May have to bag.
very fire love the reds
so this might end up being a dumb question but how are rokis coupled with an astro camera? what are the image train components to make it work? Looking at them it appears each has their branded DSLR mating end - it seems like you'd need the opposite of a t ring to connect them to an astro camera? What am I missing?
Not much. Its common to use a filter drawer for the chosen bayonet mount
Something like this https://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/product/new-filter-drawer-for-eos-lens/
there are also versions for nikon lenses and stuff
oh sweet, thank you!
Anyway, there is a solution for a mono camera + filterwheel to a dslr lens too. Usually Canon and Nikon lenses are used in astro, but not the mirrorless versions (too small backfocus for stuffs)
Another question: I donāt fully understand difference here using lenses compared to telescopes-how does changing the f stop change focal length? Trying to get a sense of framing. If I set the lens to f 2.8 what happens to the 135 focal length?
I get that it becomes longer but whatās the formula here so I can enter a handful of preset values in my framing app
And for setting things in asiair etc
focal legnth doesnt change
f stop does not change the focal length at all, its simply the number to control your aperture. you can do that on this lens because it's a camera lens. compared to a telescope it's usually a fixed focal length and fixed aperture
your framing will not change though
for a lens wtih astro, its better to just use external aperture masks so you dont get ugly diffractoin spikes
you can 3d print those and sand it i suppose
the FL stays the same when changing the ratio. With fast camera lenses its common to choke it down a little to get sharper images.
Ohhhhhh got it just slows the light collection speed, same FOV
yeah
This is why itās a good way to get better stars later because stars are bright and who cares if youāre shooting them at f 4 or whatever
i use stepdown rings so i dont get diffraction spikes
the internal aperture control blades (if there is manual control). produce some spikes to bright stars
when clicked down abit. fully open there is no spikes
example
i like the set with both stepdown and step up
they just screw into the front filter threads to close down the aperture. you just calculate what F ratio it gives
i got 72mm filter thread on my canon 200mm. i made stepdown ring sets to 62mm and 58mm
so 200 : 62 = F3.2 and 200 : 58 = F3.45
might toss the rings for F4 in my bag just incase
@mystic loom i dont really know if lenses only have troubles with the pinpoint sources of light with the fastest apertures. Stepping down helps with the star shapes and chromatic aberrations.
so not sure of the dimmer background is also affecter with less than perfect correction in the lens. Some people image wide open and then stars with alot slower f ratio
refractors are well corrected and dont need tinkering. but they are not even close to this FAST 

Spose I can always also just get stars with my refractor whenever even in LP at home and register them against each other if it gives me trouble while Iām learning
But this doesnāt sound too daunting either using these rings or whatever
Sounds like at least @uneven compass has had success with l enhance (which I have) tooāeven though itās not for fast gearānonstellar seems to be fine on it even with the coma on the stars . I donāt need to go run for a fast filter do I?
If I use this different speed for stars trick?
l enhance is pretty wide so it wont cut off any ha or oiii
actually maybe
just stop down or get an alp t
I use the l-extreme with it and it is great under my b7 skies but the halos are nuts
God what is wrong with me, Iām already considering doing this to myself with this lens
only works with the canon version for the lens tho i believe
I got that was well but couldnt test it yet
Do you use it with afilter drawer?@patent dove
yes, zwo drawer
What spacers do you have in between the lens and camera?
7.5mm spacer + 21mm drawer + 9mm spacer + 6.5mm camera back focus
the v2 filter drawer is pretty ok. i got the m48 thingy too but. cant fix internal tilt 
Is there any way to fix internal tilt?
idk yeat. prolly gonna trade the lens away for now instead of paying for a "maybe fix" by a camera service shop
i backed off since i dont have anything to shoot with that fov i like for now
was just gonna say its probably cheaper to find another one
its a 50/50 risk
i get 250⬠straight up from mpb or something. if i pay 80 - 120⬠labour for a shop and its not improved
them im out of pocket half the trade value so
decisions 
I got lucky getting mine from someone who offered a raw image to check star quality
yeah 
ok i sent a email to the swedish camera service if they will fix it
guess i can let em tinker with it since i dont plan on using it for a while
if it comes out perfect the value just shot up 2x
@chilly ingot Do you have a sample image?
Oh yeah that looks difficult
left side out of focus, middle in focus, right side past focus
thats how it sweeps across the frame
that was like f4 or slower
OOF
That really looks like backfocus
F2.8 narrowband, single sub
does the same with a dslr
Well, the flange distance of the lens then
That's what I meant
if i increase backfocus with a astrocam. it wont reach infinity even with the mod
tryed it.

maybe someday i can shoot f2 narrowband
Think the issue is it's less than 55mm
huh?
EF lens backfocus is 44mm.
had 0.3, 0.5 and 1mm shims. i was at 1100 focuser step, i set zero to bottom out towards infinity
when i increased by 1mm i was at step 200 or something
then i focused left side and then right side. had 100 - 150 focuser step difference
sorry got those confused, yes 44mm
what I mean is it possibly less than that maybe?
if there is something wrong inside. i had two setups of mounting it. filter drawer + cam. dead on 44mm.
then i added shims to account for the filter thickness, it was 2.5mm glass so i added 0.8mm
used a M48 bayonet replacement and a filter cell, all thread on parts for 44mm again. then shim the 0.8mm again for the filter
same thing, was not camera connection tilt. i got no tilt with the refractor :/
@short charm shimming the rear lens group by 1mm in the lens would actually fix the infinity focus problem i think. all the lens elements are in one piece housing like a refractor's flattener
but ye dont have a 3d printer to make such part. would be easy though
then there is the one screw that is visible not bottomed out inside the focuser. the other two screwheads sit lower
might explain why its focusing light to the side
how solid is that ZWO drawer? that machined piece is great but man it just seems very silly to buy a single piece of metal from the UK to ship to Arizona, doesn't seem to be carried anywhere else
like how solid is the Canon ZWO drawer in terms of creating a decent imaging train?
the zwo drawer is also overpriced but at least it provides some function I'd otherwise have to additionally buy, just want to make sure it's not a bad choice to omit the FLO piece
i measured mine with digital calipers and it has more accurate dimensions than the tolerance of the caliper itself
bayonet fits tighter than my actual canon dslr
awesome
will just get the zeo drawer
zwo*
this does mean for annoyance reduction I should prob get a matching zwo drawer for my refractor which currently has a blue fireball one, would rather avoid repeat screwing and unscrewing of those filters, ha
im in the US as well, I got that bayonet from the UK just cause I didnāt want to get another filter drawer when I already got the standard zwo drawer
smart
@uneven compass with your l enhance what is your usual exposure length at 2 and at 2.8?
I'm not sure about 2.8, but st f2 I've pushed it all the way to 300s
I still have a swsa, so that's the biggest constraint
20,90⬠shipping cost for my roki "maybe warranty" service 
bastards dont have a return's number for a courier service 
Alright, I bought in to this anxious cult
hopefully I got a good one, bought samyang version on amazon
will just return / exchange until I have what I want
so to test, I'm going to want to point it at something with bright stars, no? like should I just shoot at cygnus loop to see how it does at f2? What am I looking for specifically? Note I have a 533mc pro so will probably be a bit more forgiving anyway at the corners with my small sensor
and should I do it in the conditions I'd be doing it in generally (with my l enhance in place), or should i be testing in broadband?
I doubt the filter will make much of a difference when testing the lens quality
first problem what pretty much everyone gets is the loss of infinity focus even when the optics are perfect. easy fix for it
the hard stop gets in the way. there is still room to turn more when its removed 
did it myself. my lens running out of room to turn the focuser was tempature related. worked in the freezing cold, a hair short of infinity when it got warmer
ha, well with 100Āŗ midnights right now no better time to test
is that tab there broken off or ? in case I need to piece this back together for a return in case of the other issue (coma?)
nah its on by those 3 little screws. its just totally removed to get the extra 5mm of movement in the focuser
nebula photos did a video about this too. takes only a few minutes
but as for that imx533. you will never have a problem with vignetting, thats for sure š
but ye, a lens that is sharp from corner to corner at f2.8 is great. the super sharp ones at f2 are rare as hell and a pipedream for most
I think Alex tested some stepdown rings and his lens is still super sharp at f2.3 
in other words if things look good at 2.8 feel good -- don't try to rock the boat
well f2.8 is fine. I'm in this half for the way wider FOV for huge targets, half for something ultra portable for quick dark site trips, and .... er, half for the fact that my "fastish" scope is only f4.8 so even that is going to be quite a fun time
Minus the tilt yes lol

I also hate the roki aperture blades, so i would've used the rings anyhow
Yeah I have a feeling my 60d has some sensor tilt after the conversion
@pure peak

I feel robbed. Sending a lens to a neighboring country.. 28,90ā¬
So wait, the things to remove the focus hard stop is under the grip? It feels pretty solidly on and not sure how Iād get this off without damaging it
Do you actually need to remove it though, don't go voiding the warranty unless you actually need to?
If its fine, no need for it
Yeah not going to until I need to
Just not sure how else Iād test sharpness without having it in focus first
What makes you think you need to?
Oh no reason, it sounded like from here infinity focus problems are near endemic
Just test it now. Try and focus to infinity and check the pics are sharp
Not endemic it's just common with some versions but you can find out pretty quick now?
I unfortunately donāt have a dslr so testing with the Astro cam will need to wait until the coupling gear arrives
Oh right I see. Fair enough.
Cmon dhl
I am considering just getting a used modded canon on eBay to also have for ultra wide shots on the cheap
I've never had infinity focus issues
Yeah a 6d is a popular one and cheap and easy to get
Thereās a t4i on eBay for 175 right now
Considering you use a larger mount rather than a tracker, I don't really know if the dslr would be a good thing to buy
Yeah I was just toying with it, as an idea
They're nice if you ever just want to take a quick shot without having to worry about guiding, computers, etc but without a tracker you're going to have to deal with that stuff either way
Untracked stuff and milky way shots though?
They're nice for milky way shots yeah
If you ever wanted to try taking something untracked it'd be good to have
At this pixel scale and with an am5 properly aligned itās probably pretty forgiving untracked no?
It's a good portrait lens too if you do other photography but I guess not if you don't already own a DSLR?
Well all the coupling gear arrives today from agena and while my mount kit still@is making its way from Germany I forgot I bought a cheap ring thing that I suspect I can mount to a dovetail with some kind of screw to test it out
Looks very similar to what I used. Something like £10 off Amazon
Needed a slight modding with some felt padding
Can line it with gaffers tape until itās snug , just going to use it for testing purposes until my 3d print thing arrives
Yeah I didn't bother with the printed thing as not using the electronic focusser
I got one for this project that will either go on here or move to my celestron c6, if this project doesn't work and I sell everything and get a hyperstar
but I like the FOV of this setup more
The grip is on like a rubber band. It slides back pretty easy once its lifted over the edge
Check the nebula photos video to understand it better. But ofc, dont do it unless you need to
what were your dithering settings? i have the same filter and wondering if filter is making walking noise bad
i know we have different cams
20 pixels every 5 frames
That being said, about 19 hours of that were with 90s subs, and 6 or so were with 300s
More data will always help
and you have a 533mc pro yes?
i got quite bad walking noise once when i dithered every 2 frames with 45s subs. RA only though. Im gonna dither every frame from now on no matter what
Correct
iām thinking about 45 pixels every 3 since 15px every 3 frames didnāt do anything
dither well, drizzle works better 
the either takes a while though, i either in both axes though
How much data did you have? And how long were your subs?
my mount was hypertuned to mint. it settled back in 1-2seconds
so i had no real big loss by frequent dithering
only about 2 hrs since iām just testing it and about 1m if i remember correct, and the sensor temp was about 39C lol
ah i see
rebel t2i b4
Unmodded?
mhm
@shell wasp when the mount was stock. it just would not settle well and timed out.
Is the walking noise mainly in the red channel?
The issue is the cam then
yeah wondering if the temp is making it worse too
Because the filter blocks out all red that isn't ha, there is quite little red signal
right
Temp always makes noise worse generally, but the main issue is the lack of ha sensitivity
Yeah, I'd recommend doing that with a dslr
Modding the cam would also fix it, but that's a whole other bag of worms
i would rather get a dedicated astronomy camera than mod it honestly
900 bucks though š©
You can find it used for around 600
iāve seen a uranus thatās cooled for like 500, considering that
I got mine with 2 filters and shipping for 650
huh
It's worth the extra 200
is it?
iāve had a swsa up for 280 for like a month and no one has bought it
is it just more res?
and having a bigger sensor just means collecting more light
and itās also a square instead of a rectangle?
The 533 is a square, 585 is a rectangle
i see
Ik the square is a deal breaker for some, but I don't really care
yeah i wouldnāt honestly
and how do you attach the roki to the 533, it just screws?
You have to buy an adapter
There was a convo about it in this forum a few days ago
and is focusing easy?
Not any harder than with a dslr lol
yeah, iāll look into it definitely, thank you
Np!
the filter drawer option is the smartest in my opinion 
there are other adapters. they either have no threads for filters or they have some for a weird size
bunch of people using the "V2" or "new" version of zwo's filter drawer to a camera lens, eos, nikon etc
with great success
I like the square, for things that fit in it I like the square print
And readymade for sharing with friends on IG, lol
All set to test just need some clouds to take a break sometime this week
overkill mount lol
doesnt even need guiding
Lol my main is a 72mm refractor
cool rig
When it tells on the lenses name that itās cannon, then what kind of cannon it is? (EF, FD, etc.) Iām trying to find an adapter to connect the Samyang 135 mm f2 cannon with my M4/3 camera, no filters. But I donāt know wich one it is.
can you tell more about the camera other than sensor size
Seems like they do make a version for that camera.
there are also adapters for example. canon EF lens to a MFT
you mentioned stuff like FD mount, thats vintage 90's canon stuff. no longer made
Alright, thanks!
Thx! Waiting on this to arrive and then itāll be set up
yeah that is the best ring setup
the redcat ring is not optimal what i got. it blocks the aperture adjustment ring
and with a EAF bracket i have it puts some torque. that astrodynium is perfect since it grips the front too
super stable
Yeah this was just for trying a test shot but the way the clouds have been the Germany package will get here before I get it outside
ok conditions are total garbage out there right now, but unlikely to get better for next two weeks in terms of night clouds -- found one region that wasn't totally overrun to test stars in corners at f 2 and f 2.8
let me know what you think about this? Seems like I have a fair amount of elongation at top right and left corners in both f 2 and f 2.8
that is f 2, this is f 2.8
I did polar align and am on an AM5, and exposure was only 10s so doubt those are trails but could be wrong
is this a dud, or inconclusive?
seems like some astigmatism too, but not sure
(not sure if this discord has trained me to be way too critical of rokinons/samyangs)
Got anything to stack abit or the whole sub
What does ASTAP inspection say?
What happens if you do longer subs
With my lens, the comet like tails got longer on bad stars
Stopping down to 2.8 seemed to have helped abit. Id still be abit bummed out. Looks to me its not amazing, but its not complete trash either.
If a 30, 45, 60sec sub shows super nasty areas at top and middle right. Back to amazon you go š
That almost looks like tilt or backfocus though, idk if I'd treat it as a bad copy yet. I don't really see any bad fringing on that small sensor, so It may be good
I'd also try with a proper DSLR, these lenses are really designed with 5micron pixels in mind, not 3.76
should cruise ebay for a modded dslr to add to the collection
would tilt be possibly occurring given the goofy mount it's currently in? one hold point
Need to try again when that astrodymium clone arrives, since it has two hold points, maybe?
is there any way to test for tilt in the daytime?
Alex makes a good point with the tilt. F2 system is way more sensitive for that
Seen some people support the camera and lens on a long dovetail with big guidescope rings
Zwo makes a 11mm long t2 tilt plate to fit the 533 style cameras. It replaces the 11mm long t2 extension
that a another expense on a maybe
I did that and no success.
My lens did the same with 4cams
now i own a tilt plate 
ordered the tilt plate, that seems a nice enough upgrade to the 533 anyway
i think I really need to get my actual mount kit for this thing to get a better sense of what is going on in the optical train
and probs need to dust off my windows astro pc to do some closer analysis in NINA than is possible on the asiair
help me understand tilt a little better -- is there any impact on it if the whole "Ota" + camera assembly is out of perpendicular to the mount? Or is this just internal to the optical axis
I do keep looking at it and more I do, I see what you all mean about tilt/backfocus. Here are the corners super zoomed in:
they're all pointing out in the directions that would indicate I need to pull out the BF a bit, though yes at different degrees so likely also a tilt element to it
I have a bunch of spacers so trying that next
When i was testing out some shims. Adding 1mm was quite abit as EAF stepcount
i just put on a 1mm to start
I have a 0.3, 0,5 and 1mm i think
I added them againt the cam since it had the longest thread
when i had tilt plate on
oh interesting yeah
but these stars don't look horrendous other than BF/tilt issues?
the stock 11mm does the same though
Idk seems allright. Nothing post processing cant fix with that mild CA
if you load the sub to ASTAP
It can draw some lines where the stars are pointing
but ye it does mildly point to some small backfocus thing
rigging my canon lens now
Need to sort out my whole astro backbag
Cleaning all filters and optics. Hyped for darker skies next month
where is the ccd inspector in astap? For the life of me cannot find it
oh found it!
seems like we've got a tilt thing going on
i think hocus focus in nina also has tools for adjusting tilt. there are some great videos in youtube
should be a superior method adjusting it live than dragging subs to astap
definitely
with astap i found that if both side are equally defocused it results in low tilt number. other side is out of focus and other past focus š
tilt is still a thing but here are some 2.8 stars, followed by some f4 stars, and some f2 stars
f4, then f2
I know not to expect perfect at f2, but this look like a decent copy? Hopefully my full rig arrives end of this week and I can stat trying to tweak back focus and tilt
but wanted to share some 60s ones for folks' opinions (the prior ones I shared were only 10 second shots)
Yeah f2 definitely gives you fringing on those samples, and it's kinda noticeable at f4 as well
F4 you gotta pixel peep though
Hmmm, do you have a uv/ir cut filter on there?
I do
I'd say return as long as you can
cool, will do
so we're largely looking at chromatic aberration
someone in the astrophotography world should produce a rokinon inspection checklist, the QA that the factory doesn't do, lol
Maybe wait for other opinions as well but I wouldn't want to have an OK copy long term if I could've had a good copy for little to no extra expenses
Easy then
I will sit on it for a bit longer and then send it back -- reset the return clock since it seems I bought this during "every night is cloudy even if the daytime is crystal clear" season in arizona, maybe I can wait this out a bit to make testing less harrowing
hoping to land a good one in like three strikes

š¤
A good copy is something to guard with ur life
haha
a lifetime keeper
unless science developes some magic glass that makes all optics obsolete
the roki is 2.5x - 3x cheaper than sigma art 135mm
Thats alot of savings
for same sharpness
yeah I think I am going to try three times and see where I stand
not that I won't try a fourth but at that point the draw of "just get a redcat, speed be damned" might start singing its siren's call
Or just get a used good copy?
Also, try with a stepdown ring, I had about same fringing til I installed the stepdown ring, seems like my errors were closer to the edge of the front element
That's what it felt like yeah
I was going to just live with the fringing, but after installing down to 58mm, I didn't see any anymore
So your guess is as good as mine lol
another reason for stepdown rings to the list 
Ordered, could be interesting to see if that solves everything
Iād certainly be fine with f 2.3
f2.3 would be god tier still.
the 2.8 with no bad stuff happening is the norm
2.8 still nice, for sure
for nonstellar, what is the impact of shooting wide open with a lens that can really only begin to do stars well at 2.8?
assume I own blurxterminator and starxterminator and they're always part of my flow
Ayo anybody got a nice integration of the Sadr region using aps-c sized sensor? I want to compare this old ass data I took at 135mm using a 50 USD Nikon AF-S 55-200mm lens.
Roki vs Niko
Im interested to see the difference in detail. I already know my image will get blown out of the water in terms of sharpness.
Fpl53 enters the chat
But really, if ANYONE makes an fpl53 135mm triplet with f/2, that thing will sell like crazy
Shoot, even a 100mm at f2
You might also wanna consider a shaprstar fma 180 pro
They're made for AP and have an inbuilt field flattener
may have found a used samyang, having the guy take some sample shots with it. He just sold his tracker so can only take unguided -- figured he would still be able to demonstrate any coma in corners with his APS C. Could turning up his ISO help with showing any potential CA, given that he can't do 60 s exposures? I plan on sharing the pics here to get the opinion of the brain trust
I'd have him point at Polaris, that way there's less trailing, and I'd keep iso max at 6400, and ideally 10s
And have him take f2, 2.8 and 4
Wip
are you using a filter?
I can't tell, what are we looking at right now? š
If it's no crop that region mus be pretty large
Somewhere in Cygnus?
Oh splendid
And yeah no crop
How much data are you aiming at?
yeah, iām selling my clip in l enhance for my dslr, may have to grab an l-enhance sometime in the future, i think the next purchase would be pixensight though
my 533mc pro is arriving tomorrow, very excited
Great, another two weeks of rain in the offing then š
itās clear here every night actually, just hot
there's some noticeable star trailing (he wasn't able to shoot polaris due to smoke in that direction from a neighbor's fire, as he said) - this is altair; not sure whether this is even usable. Trying to get confirmation on sequencing and aperture - he sent me a folder of like 100 3s exposures but the metadata isnt' clear if there are f2.8 and 4 captures too
Not sure if anything in astap is useful here - would "tilt" just show tilt or can it indicate coma issues too?
or is HFD or roundness better for gauging coma issues?
Are these shots even useful for gauging anything given the star trails?
in order: Tilt, HFD, Roundness
Trails from being untracked are pretty considerable. Not sure if this is useful data for gauging
well 3s untracked subs are unusable
ha, yeah figured. Well will not treat this one as the grail and will keep at the amazon grind!
@uneven compass i just realized that i need a mounting system since i just have a vixen style dovetail, but i canāt find any mount system anywhere online; theyāre all sold out
Mounting rings for the roki?
This one exists
Everything else does seem sold out
i know its annoying
im wondering if this will work
holds the camera, i just dont know if the mount is vixen
Well that has arca swiss at the bottom what any mount definately isnt
i just realised
it has screws on the bottom so I can just attatch it through 3/8 to my existing vixen style plate
needs a long plate and a big guide scope ring to the front to support the lens
Ye
ok well im desperate so ill do that
Ef mount has springs under the lugs. Id get one of those 3 screw guide scope rings to it later. If there is tilt
itll work until i get a new scope
Ye sure it probably is servicable
Technically, yes, but you're adding lots of flexure
You really want it to be connected in 2 points, bonus points for camera also laying flat on something
i donāt really know what my other option is @short charm
Welp, astrodymium apparently cannot process any orders atm
yep
Holding the cam with the zwo ring and lens separately will actually work really well
Looks kinda bad tho but its all function
Yeah it would work, but there will be potential tilt and flexure introduced
There are also sites you can buy printed stuff if you upload the files. Assemble at home
idk how great it will be
with all the threaded fittings.
i sent him a message, trying to cancel my order for the other thing
thanks for finding this
The ad is from almost 2months ago though, so check first
he was online today
and he has other classifieds and someone left him a review on him selling them something yesterday
Nah more like if it's not sold yet
ah i see
if i can get it it will be nice, since when i sell my roki for better optics it will add some value to it
iāve been pleasantly surprised with agena astro, they shipped my adapter instantly and cancelled my order within 20 minutes
Ah how lovely that is! The Veil Nebula Complex will be one of my most desired areas when I get my roki!
Agena is the best astro store in the US rn, no doubts about it
iāve been using HPS since i really like their customer and technical support but iāve most definitely gotten a good first impression from them
Which do you all prefer?
2
is there discord compression on that
There is always discord compression 
Ordered from both opt and hps, and they don't really compare to agena in terms of stock and decent pricing. Also agena support is awesome
yeah iāll definitely be using them more in the future
the whole weight of roki is hanging off the filter draw ?
that's a valuable filter drawer, what can I say?
.. what ?
that guy is still selling it and he's giving me it for 50 bucks, although i have to buy another dovetail but not bad
Definitely prefer the new one finally
Much cleaner
I'd really like to win low teir lmao
Bro I saw yours in the comp just a sec ago, dam good
That background Ha has got you the upper hand
Honestly... yours is the biggest one I'm worried about 
The processing is pretty great, I love how glowy it all is
I've said too much
In low tier?
Ayo now you got me curious
Wait nvm i think the project is considered high-tier
Same lmao
@uneven compasswhat star database do you use for platesolving?
got the camera, now i just need to mount it
If I see a speck of dust on that sensor 
i didnāt see any, flats exist anyways and if itās on the front glass i have a rocket air blower
533mc has no amp glow, overall really nice specs, more people have it and so i can ask more questions, better sensor, etc
Same price, and there's a bigger used market for the zwo
Oh if he got it used than that explains it
Player one used market is almost non existent
Maybe some here and there
i didnāt get it used
many other people have the exact same setup iām going to have so i just thought it would be easier, it looks like a solid camera though
Oh ok well nvm
nothing wrong with the player one, 533MC pro and ares c pro are the same price
sooo just pick whichever color you like i guess
Yea it's a very good cam obviously it's just Player One did things a bit better when it comes to quality of life features.
I would personally go with player one for my first astro cam
They seem to care more about whats ideal for the user
I like the design
What does the player one have that the zwo does not?
It's simply getting bought by myself period
I'm only going to get player one because I like the colors lol



hope my canon 200 is sharp