#Rokinon/Samyang 135mm discussion
1 messages · Page 2 of 1
are you going to need a new lens to design a new print?
u must clean ur roki everyday no way its just naturally spotless
I might have some I can reuse
Nope. I just care for it
F/2 vs F/2.4 vs F/2.8 on roki. It gets worse at F/4 but im too lazy to test the in betweens.
Do those FWHM figures account for any CA that may be present at f2?
To be honest f2.4 looks like it's a nice sweet spot
Trying to figure it out. I believe so. But it measures what it calls a star so the CA shouldn’t affect it. I also get no CA at f/2 so yk.
The Roki is asleep waiting for the perfect clear night
The beast slumbers
Clean your keyboard 
where cam
still no new cam
What cam and where did you get it?
zwo asi585mc from astro-art 
its finnish store. competetive pricing and sometimes better than mainland eu
it was noted as backorder with 2-3weeks but the dockworkers union had a 2 week strike
so there is a pile of stuff they have to clear now 
Ah well there you go
they launched a online store for norway so whe whole site was -5% off 
i backordered it to get it for the discount
mistake
So after a frustrating 2 weeks of solid cloud and rain I had half an hour of clear skies last night to test the uranus-c/roki135 combo with the l-extreme and it turns out filters under B7 skies are a game changer
So the first is the 2.5hr stack with no filters and the second is the 14mins of data I managed before the clouds ended the session
In just 14 mins of data there was so much more nebulosity on display ! shame the star halos are pretty prominent though!
I had to move from 90s exposure to 120s which is probably a bit of push for the alt-az gti unguided too
but for anyone wondering how the roki 135 performs with the l-extreme, there ya go

Yeah dual nb is great
I didnt get the l-extreme just for the risk of getting a sample that does halo’s
like Cuiv has one that does no halo’s
i went with IDAS NBZ
Yeah you can see the halos on mine are quite extreme
I think its run of the mill for that filter isnt it? Not seen that its a batch error or anything?
Also the bandpass shift from the faster optics hurts the l-extreme a lot. It is sample dependant, but you ideally want a wider bandpass due to that shift
Well aside from the halos (which like Cuiv don't really bother me) I was pretty impressed, i have to say
Its quite strange which starts have halos too, not necessarily all the brightest ones, odd
Not as cheap as I got the Uranus-c though
how much was that
its like 20€ more. it adjusts VAT for me 
Ahh ok maybe a UK thing
I just noticed on my recent image that it appears there is some sort of tilt in the imaging train somewhere? Any ideas where and how i could address it..
At first I though it was star trailing due to the 2 min exposures unguided but looking in more detail it appears the stars towards the corners point outwards?
Do you reckon its the Roki or the camera sensor?
Would like to address it before I undertake my next session (if the clouds ever go away) when I hope to grab more that 14 mins of integration 😆
I didn't notice this training until I had the filter in my imaging train but that's probably because the star boat without a filter hid it somewhat ?
I assume you didn't ever get this problem @hazy copper ?
When corners are egg shaped towards middle, you dont have enough backspacing. Correct? 
That makes sense, i dont have any backspacing.. need to get a 5-6mm spacer then assuming mine ends up the same as yours? You did warn me and i ignored you
It seems stupidly hard to find single spacers for some reason
Well i have the luxury of zwo EOS filter draver that fits 17.5mm backspaced cameras. Player one is 12.5mm so you need 5mm t2 spacer?
I have the same filter drawer but its not enough
It reached infinty focus about 2/3 through the focus range
Single spacers are expensive too. The svbony spacer set costs the same as single’s
OK ill look for that then.. T2 thats M48 right?
Ill check.. I think the uranus c is an M48 as is the zwo filter drawer. You got this sort of thing ? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Svbony-Extension-Adapter-Extending-Astrophotography/dp/B07S72HT9R/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1ALH2ZSV8BCOF&keywords=svbony+spacer&qid=1679059701&sprefix=svbony+spacer%2Caps%2C57&sr=8-4
When you cannot get to the right focal plane for focusing with a camera or eyepiece. This extension tube kit solves this problem. You can use this extender with any camera or eyepiece or with various adapters. The M48*0.75 threads on both ends make it extremely versatile. Use this extender for ob...
Really? hmm ok ill take mine apart and measure to be sure 😂

M42 on both
Yup cool
No ideas where I get 6mm from? Hopefully 5mm will be enough fix my stars? Then I just have to worry about the l-extreme halos!
Would be so much easier if I live in the middle of the Australian outback!
5mm should help.
I guess I could try and get hold of 2 3mm ones
I must get some anti seize paste too, I hear spacers are notorious for never coming apart!
Or 5mm + 1mm shim
There are good spacer sets from FLO.
They sell two kinds if memory serves well
REMEMBER AFFILIATE LINKS

Yeah illl take a look and use the links
@worthy grove oh yeah. I think getting a 5mm and shim set to backfocus for a thick filter

1/3 filter’s thickness to backfocus
Well the filter doesn't add to the image train as its in the filter drawer?
Like my idas nbz is 2.5mm if i remember right. I added 0.8mm
why would it add thickness if its in a filter drawer though?
If you have none installed. Then it does not.
but if you have something mounted in there. It does affect
Oh right, that doesnt really make sense though? The distance from sensor to lens is unchanged right? no matter if there is a filter in the drawer or not. Im missing something here
Sensor to optics distance is not the same when abit of it is taken by a filter
@tender apex help
OK But If the distance is taken up by air vs filter glass that's where I dont quite get it, its the same distance but maybe the filter refracts the light slightly hence why you don't need as much?
Ill get 5mm plus shim as you suggest though as it will give me flexibility to experiment a bit
That makes sense... Great explanation, thanks of persevering with me
It takes a bit of trial and error this does..
might solve some headscratcing later
getting a shim set instead of just one is good
my filters are all different thickness
dhl express seems to be lightning fast
📫
ordered at like 3pm. got notified 30mins later delivery on monday
from germany 
I have an amazon order on a 5mm one arriving tomorrow.. May have to make a cardboard shim until I get a proper one in the meantime
or some stiff plastic
i imagine even the 5mm will vastly improve the stars in my image
the diy garage shims are cut from coke cans with scissors
yeah i think the small shimming will affect the extreme corners most probably. not sure
well my backfocus is well off at the moment as I have no spacer at all just the lens adapter / filter drawer
so few clear nights to test things. im one of those who need to see things work to understand 😄
Yeah clear nights are few and far between in the UK at the moment.
I didn't full understand back focus when i started, I just assumed if I can get focus it didn't matter, I didn't realise it would cause that odd tilt effect
also i had problems with adjustable backfocus things. those great to figure it out. but getting it solid with the right spacers and shims are the way to go
when gear gets cold, its not as tight as it was indoors
the lockring in my william optics adjustable flattener was not enough for a stiff camera rotator
and i nipped it up good inside 😄
so i got some M54 shims to the flattener too
Filters add 1/3rd there thickness to the focal plane distance
I think you have some dust on your lens 😂. Great image. Amazing detail. What area is it?
Chameleon cloud. near the SCP
Much better! This time managed 1hr of poor quality subs (basically was shooting all night and have taken ones where there were gaps between the clouds) Now with a 5mm spacer.
You can see I'm still not got enough back focus but waiting on a 1mm shim (although I do have a 7mm I may try)
nice nice
does sub lenght matter on the halo?
also are you shooting wide open or clicked down?
doesn't seem to really, I had worse halos but have removed in this processing
I shot this at 2.4 I may see if wide open changes the halos at all, the star burst is quite prominent when stopped which may be a halo inducer? Not really had enough clear skies to experiment with yet
these were 2min subs, not bad for no guider!
Il post my data if you want to take a look? the halos are pretty ridiculous tbh but easy to remove
#1087047201995358350 message
Looks superb! What camera are you using there?
533mc
Nice. Look forward to seeing what it can do. Nice to have a guider as well
One of those investments that carries over to other setups as is
Certainly does, Although I've been managing 2min subs that are solid on my az gti unguided
i did 5min with 2.66”/px no worries. Only a test though
Seeing was good so guiding was solid
Nice 👍
i didnt do that long subs with dslr. I was using a intervalometer with my hands frozen.
Ha. Yeah I remember those days
No more though, asiair mini now. My aps-c cam was not supported by the little box. And the scopes flattener/reducer is limited to aps-c
I had the worst gear missmatch for a while
Yeah looks like a great upgrade. I'm rocking a mini pc and NINA rather than asiair
got a add-on that mounts to the ring/handle. Its a redcat part but the maker printed one part custom to fit my lens
@worthy grove not my picture. But its the Pro Astro Gear black cat. I plan to get a eaf someday
Made the cog for focus ring custom size 
Dam you got a good rig I want a rig like that
I want the ceres c for the guide cam and the Uranus c for the cam that’s my ideal future rig to save for
The astrodynium or something like that ring system is better though
That rc51 ring blocks the aperture ring
Highly recommend astrodimium, its awesome
I am an idiot for not getting that. It is the best mounting system for this lens
Honestly the big reason why I wanna get an eaf, just to have a nice enclosed focuser instead of my diy additions onto the shell
But if anyone needs the nema14 bracket files for the astrodimium shell, lmk!
👀
I made one but it was terrible
I wondered about printing it but its like £60 from flo
Can't say mine is any good lol, but at least it kinda works 😅
How does it fit on?
Just goes into the same spot as the eaf adapter from astrodimium, I just added a small bump to match the indent on the clamshell
I'd probably move the screw hole a bit more forwards if I had to reprint it
how do you stop it twisting around
thats my issue with my design currently
with that bump lol
At least I imagine that's what they're using the indent for
I'm not a good cad designer though, so it's probably not the best implementation still
Oh right, is that on the rings?
would u happen to have the ring set 3D print file thing ?
You mean this? https://astrodymium.com/products/astrodymium-rings-for-samyang-rokinon-135mm-f-2-lens
Yeah, looks like they updated the design though, and there's now 2 screw holes there instead of a hole and an indent, so not sure which version you have
Yep that’s the one
Yeah it's not really available for download and self printing 😅
Unless you're me 
Then i tried printing it and it didn't work so well 
I was going to give printing it a go. What was the issue? Maybe for £60 it's not worth it
i printed mine and its fine
I use this but slightly modded.
mainly i used gopro screws to clamp it and a aluminium base plate
The GoPro nuts are melted in the plastic
I didn’t use any heated inserts apart from that
@cosmic marlin in case you are interested
if i was u i would avoid the heated inserts as much as possible.
i dont trust them enough
Wdym heated inserts ?
little bits of brass you melt in that hold a screw
don’t think I have any of those anyway 😄
It dosent have the guidescope mount thing on the top ?
I might have a screw that could fit that slotted hole thing, do u know how wide it is ?
I would have thought some sort of plastic cement or resin would be better ?
7mm
the underside has a recess which is 15mm so you could use a washer
hm maybe not able to then
Would it be bette to get Ryan to print it? Since his printer can printer stronger plastic (iirc) ?
Probably won’t be before my bd 
2nd try 
I don't have my camera rn so I'll have to wait to see if it's a decent copy
Just look through it 
50mm
50mm Sony e mount
(yes I'm an imposter)
Well, im calling the police
Snitch
Alright I just tested it
It's... decent I guess
Definitely better than the first copy but even at f2.8 the coma is quite bad
I don't know if I keep it
It's decent enough...
I guess I had really good luck with my copy 😅
well i can shoot at F2, same slight blue fringing towards middle on some stars. the F2 is absolute hell to keep in focus though
F2.8 feels nicer.
next time out ill do some astap testing for science
I haven’t needed to stop down mine
Or I have bad luck 😅
LMC got his good copy at first try, Caphe got a bad copy, somebody I have forgot the name of got a good one on second try...
Looks like ~1/2
You need an autofocuser then
me lol, turns out my adapters have tlit though
5d mk ii the stars are round full frame
I shoot at f2.3 rn, got step down rings that bring me down to 58mm aperture over the 67mm, plus the stars are quite good there
And definitely also have adapter tilt 😦 and can't remove it with a better adapter cause they don't make it for mono. When I get a color cam again, I'ma get the proper adapter then though
Currently just shooting with my 60d that has slight tilt on the right, but it's barely noticeable
Plus can't fix it 😅
Also Ill mainly use it with the uranus c, and with this sensor size the whole field is pretty sharp at f2.4 so yeah
Pretty good
That and more stable temps
Literally 2 minutes of integration before sunset lol
noww it makes sense
I knocked my roki and now it's perfect 
Percussive maintenance ftw!
Desperate times call for desperate measures
- nervously stares towards hammer *
I knocked mine when it was on my dslr camera (in normal photography mode) slung over my shoulder and clonked it on a door frame as I walked through, Mine seems to be optically great (I don't know if it was before i whacked it or not) 😂
All of this is making me laugh so hard
Actually though? You mean caphes roki is now a good one?
Hmmmm, I may have hit mine too hard, any tips?
Keep hitting
but what happened to they're alive and changing though lmao
It was just an illusion
That looks like backfocus dude
its not
Damn
its backfocus of the internal elemets I'd say
I bought the EF version and use it on my 60D (EF)
its spaced properly its just the elements
I dont want to start this discussion again please, it just brings down my mood
im already in the middle of a 200 question exam that my parents are going to kill me for if I dont get an A
all lenses move when focusing so bad backfocus isn't really a thing with this stupid lens
sorry
you're fine
🤐
and real quick though
mine is more than just coma
it has really bad astigmatism
and it also has this really weird flaring on bright stars
@short charm @tardy epoch

about as soft as a sponge too
that means you need 7.3 more hits
Oof I feel bad some of ur Roki pics are really good tho for the issues it has
Last nights effort! Needs more data (about 1hr50mins here) And I kind of missed with the dithering I had to crop the top a bit which was annoying
not really got the hang of this processing yet
It was a combo of siril/starnet and gimp
When you are done imaging it, upload the stack to #1021002743080558642 and lets see what other nerds can do 
Ive uploaded the latest stack just now
I really must get that extra 1mm spacer as I still need a tad more backfocus
Removed my 0.8mm spacer since i discovered i has alot of tilt
My untracked test sub was like 15-20% tilt is astap image inspector in room temp
Tracked 60sec sub in -5c was 45% diagonal
idk what is going on
The spacer felt like it had a low spot
Chee
How do you analys your tilt?
I have a 5mm extension on now.. I do have a 7mm I could try but it may be too much? While i understand the physics of backpacking I still don't really understand how you precisely calculate how much is required for any particular setup
I open a sub in ASTAP and select image analysis and click tilt inspection
I check several from the session
@worthy grove this was with my Z61 scope
some subs were 4-5%
Ill give that a try, I dont think i have ever used the ASTAP ui, I only use it for plate solving in NINA
Im tempted to just get the M48 adapter for the roki and be done with all bayonet mounting
even adding a filter drawer now gives me the sweats
@worthy grove ill show you after work the abomination of a tilted sub with my roki
Over half the stars looked like the hubble variable nebula 
I have to say I haven't had issues with mine so far
Im pissed off really. Im gonna image with my scope for abit till i figure out something
Yeah it sounds tricky to debug, what camera are you using? Does the camera not have tilt correction you can use?
I use the asi533mc
it screws on directly to the filter drawer so idk if there is room for a tilt plate
I see
I think there are A4 papers i can print that has a bunch of white dots on a black background to image on a tripod

@worthy grove when did you get knighted as a nerd?
Last week i think
I have serious imposter syndrome 🙂
How does it even happen? (is there a high council meeting or something)?
when i kick @gusty rock’s ass in the northern leo triplet competion. Ill be the 1st protostar with a trophy 
Vote for me btw. 
Ill take a look
Its still open. End saturday i think. Then some days till its upto votes 
What filter did you use for that in B8?!?
just baader moon&sky glow or what ever its called
neodymium
@worthy grove
Moon pmuch super polluted 2/3 of my stack
Leo is around the cross
This gradient in livestack
Amazing you got such good detail with just that on 3hrs worth!
What were your sub lengths?
30s
Great job!
could have gone for more. But on 2nd night i was glad i didnt
Do you recommend that filter over a normal uv/ir one then?

Idk really. It is the least aggressive of the bunch
also thin. Just 1mm
Only adds 0.3mm to backspacing that is not alot at all
Since getting my dual narrowband filter which was a game changer (in both good and bad ways) I am thinking about filter purchase for broadband targets
@worthy grove a broadband filter is a hot debate. Im gonna test some uv/ir cut sometime and same target with broadband filter
Got 2x trays for my filter drawer
Yeah I've heard some say dont bother and just stick with uv/ir and others say that something like the l-Pro is worth using... I guess it depends on your exact location and setup though
The baader one i have is pretty much a l-pro with less cost
the one you used for this you mean?
I have a mixed case of sodium lights and led’s
Yea
I think its great if i image over the buildings or over the railroad
But over the logistics center that had led’s its gonna be least effective
Some people in cloudy nights say the best filter is a gas, oil and cabin filter and drive to a darker place 
Well my rig is a travel rig and I can drive to a b4 site in 30 mins so thats ultimately my aim but I want to get used to it before taking the travel plunge
Btw i was gonna shoot flats after imaging. Cold lens fogged up indoors right away. Lucky i had clean optics before and after imaging. I stacked with old flats i took day before and it was fine 
No darks, only bias
Why dont you shoot your flats in situ?
freezing my ass off and i just want to leave
i usually do em right away when im home
I have to say using the NINA flat wizard revolutionised this part of the process for me, I tell it to slew to zenith, put my £7 led panel over the top and then press the go button on the wizard and it takes 30 flats in seconds! Once you have configured the wizard once for your panel its a breeze
Might setup that on my pc and use the ipad as a light
used my 600nits HDR monitor for it and sometimes the pad
The asiair flats looks weird
I used to use an ipad but I got worried about putting it on the top and also struggled to get the screen brightness consitent so went for a really cheap tracing panel on top of some copy paper. It works a treat. Never used (and probably never will) use the asiair so cant comment but Nina makes flats so easy
Got decent ones with AV mode on my dslr to test histogram and then going manual with the settings faster or slower exposure
You sure will ^^"

wait I just realized why are you not red nerd
Has anyone here photographed the elephant's trunk nebula?
Nope but I think I will in the summer as my winter targets disappear
Managed this with the roki the other day
Got some tilt issues atm with my roki so ill finish the spring with scope
gonna image elephant’s trunk tonight
i guess the filter drawer is bad
i will adapt the roki to M48 and get a thread on drawer
Sounds like a good plan. What makes you think it's the filter drawer?
Its reputation
might have been the 0.8mm shim
But idk. Had too many problems lately
First Light Optics - Suppliers of Astronomy telescopes, binoculars and accessories from Skywatcher, Celestron, Meade, William Optics, Atik, Imaging Source, Starlight Xpress, ADM, Moonlite, Catseye, Hutech and others.
Bayonet mounts have springs inside and even a stiff cable pull can cause tilt maybe
Do u analyze it in astap?
yeah.
i had mount problems too. but i want to measure the filter drawer
also it might just warp in the cold
cant remember my camera orientation anymore
Oh damn if that's bad then my tilt is terrible xD
The cam im using is more sensitive
Hmm is the test image in nb?
Mine could also be caused by the clip in filter couldn't it?
This tilt 
F3.2 i was getting red, magenta and blue starts
at wider apertures even the middle was cursed
with dual narrowband it got even worse
i increased backfocus now for like 1.5mm and at f2.8 the bottom is no longer super soft
Sorry you're having such a bad time with this! Have you managed to confirm that its not an issue with your lens but something else inh you imaging train?
Ordered a tilt plate
borrowed some digital calipers from work 
seems to be 0.01 - 0.03 of tolerance in this adapter
low spot maybe 26.49 and high spot 26.53 give or take 0.01mm i dont trust these calipers enough
same sort of bumpyness in this 11mm T2 adapter in the cam but slightly less
measured my t2 spacers i got. these are absolute crap it seems 😄
I'm planning on getting one of these lenses now, is the best way to get a good copy just to buy a new one and return them until its a good one? I want to be able to shoot at f/2 with APS-C
Yeah do that
weeell. unless you buy a tested copy from someone. getting one from a shop with a no fuss return policy is a another way
getting one with tight stars at f2.8 is more realistic
I got mine from Amazon and it was fine. Maybe luck but I was unaware there were even issues with this lens
Also sometimes using stepdown rings allows you to get more aperture than with the aperture rings, mine is at f2.3 with the rings with no abberations, only tilt
I could really just shoot at f/2 with minimal issues as well
I just peep
Got my first copy on Amazon and it was kinda bad, got a refund and I bought the 2nd one one mpb and it's decent enough
I feel like imaging at f2 it is really sensitive to aligment
Sensor and pixel size will decrease or increase any errors
Like mine did decent subs with fullframe, but with 533mc its unusable
Well the adapters are quite bad unfortunately 😦
A lot of people say they really like the geoptik adapters, but I can't test it cause it doesn't have enough backfocus for a filterwheel
Might be able to get my hands on a used Roki tomorrow, it appears to be a very decent copy 
yeah and adding a filter drawer, then there is probably no room for tilt plate
i ordered the M48 bayonet replacement so i have a plan B, then i just need to figure out a way for 2" filters
You'll probably have to screw into the adapter
there is not enough threads unless i remove the actual filters lockring
i could daisychain a bunch of stepup and stepdown adapters to fit it. that would cost bit too much
tbh the dual nb filter is also tilt sensitive, when i took flats. one side is green and other is red in the flat 😄
im triggered that in my roki setup goddamn nothing works out of the box
I just accepted that I'ma use a DSLR with my roki and call it good lol
yeah i should have bought the 2000D on sale
my aps-c mirrorless is more noisy and unsupported by asiair 
this is what I plan to do too so I can use the standard zwo filter drawer and an oag
i saw a filter drawer that had a built in OAG
37.5mm thick. so theres 6.5mm left to space out
That's 250 euro though...
how much is filter drawer + oag + helical focuser for it
Ok that's fair
But hard to justify if you already have an oag and a filter drawer
I personally can't wait til touptek makes the built-in guider color imx clone of the new ZWO camera
would you still be able to use a dual band filter with that camera though?
Lol nope
But at f/2 idk if I want to use duoband filters, those are quite pricey
I guess an l-enhance would be fine, but that's about it
eventually I'd like to get the IDAS NBZ for it
@short charm found something to pair with the M48 bayonet replacement for filter usage
Der TS M48 Filterhalter ermöglicht die Aufnahme von gefassten 2" Filtern bei einer Länge von nur 15 Millimeter.
im tilt paranoid atm 
Yeah without doing a lot of research won't be able to help you 😅
Does anyone know how to do focus mod on 135mm rokinon lens?
As in attaching an EAF?
No but like basically there’s a hard stop near infinity and you can get fully focus or something
There’s a video for focus modification but it was Timelapse and I don’t know what they did
I am a visual learner so hence why I am just trying to ask
Nebula photos has a youtube video about that
Yeah Ik but I can’t understand it
Nebula photos is what I refer too
I kept rewatching him and yet can’t understand what to do
@chilly ingot
Idk, i found it quite straight forward
Do you mind helping me with it if not it’s fine
well. you literally turn the lens to infinity stop
peel the rubber grip from the focus ring down to reveal the screws
remove the screws
then you can pull the focus ring down to reveal the infinity focus stopper plate
unscrew it and store it somewhere safe
assemble in reverse without putting the stopper back
oh thats all i thought you adjust the infinity thing I guess not
then that should be easy then
@tender apex noticed that the pdf you made. When i focus with the middle left spiky thing with the dot in the middle
When there is tilt. It has double circles in the spikes and purple CA

i have my tilt plate atm tightened flat with no adjustments and it went away. Also M48 bayonet replacent on the lens, filter cell
So atm with these only there is already less tilt
Sounds promising and that its not the lens itself!
Testing today after work
Printing two A4’s with dots to ballpark it indoors
One with inverted colours
RIP your printer ink
RIP your departments printing budget for the month
ok this was 1st test sub

wtf
seems like replacing the filter drawer and bayonet did alot
i did the method of debayering, converting grayscale and inverting the image
yep, I made that thing packed with as many features as possible 😄 that test is how you test for decentered optical components and other flaws in mainly lens based systems, on my mirror based scopes it makes a nice focus test when taking an image, as you can very clearly tell if your at best focus or not
well outside under the stars there was still tilt
i saw the most amazing meteor though
it was so near
could hear it soar and it had a nice tail and cool fireball at the front
lens is garbage
Oh dear. You've narrowed it down to the lens? Are you able to send it back for a replacement?
i made it stock now. ill bring it to the repair shop when im on my summer vacation
idk if i send it to sweden to the official samyang repair shop
a local shop here sayd they will take a look at it
its fine when imaging on daylight with big pixel dslr
so idk if lens service places care at all about astro photography
imagine if i had Askar 135 that costs less 
it would probably be perfect
Hello guys I modify my focus for rokinon 135mm and now it doesn’t like to focus at all
What about the focus did you modify? Just removed the infinty stop?
Removing the infinty stop shouldn't affect its ability to focus at all just means you can go past its original stop
Yeah I just did that
I went all the way to infinity and got this
well you've probably gone past infinity? roll it back
Like modify it to not go past or just adjust the focus
just adjust focus
Ok well I tried to adjust it near the infinity and it still does that
The only time it got sharper is when
I step up the aperature
Well you haven't done anything that should affect the focus so go through the whole range and you should find it. What camera are you using?
So also what you mean it could be like the middle focus that can be sharp and not infinity?
@worthy grove is that what you mean
💀
But why would it do that bc before modifying it would be near infinity for mostly but not all focus
been puzzled by this and i dont even know what is going on
you removed the stopper plate and its 3 screws, reassembled
and cranked it to max and it is not in focus in its new maximum position?
the point of critical focus shifts while the lens cools down
and with fast optics like this lens, the point is really really narrow where it is in focus
it is somewhere around the last 10 - 3mm of the end of the turn
depends on tempature
Oh alright
But then why would it be much more in focus near the maximum infinity focus when I step up to like for example f/11 or f/22
hard to explain but, stepping down the lens increases the depth of field and the point of critical focus is broader
but you let in less light. thus increasing the exposure time needed to get compareable results than lets say, f2.8
by quite a big factor
and when the lens is closed down alot, there might be weirness going on with diffraction
i really have no idea what is going when you only enabled more room to find the focus near infinity
Oh alright
both captured with the rokinon, which is nicer
They look great! I prefer the second one.. What region is this? Im not familiar? The first is the triffid I guess?
Rho ophiuchi. First is lagoon/trifid
It looks like there's a weird cutout around Antares on the rho one for some reason
Both are good, I prefer the lagoon one however as the Snr is a good bit better. Definitely get more data on rho if you can
And are you dithering?
Lagoon did dither, rho didn’t dither
Makes sense, definitely keep doing that
@lone tendon decided to get the astrodymium AF kit, and yeah they definitely use that knob to stop it from rotating
That and the lip
More nice stuff from the Roki! Love this lens. Wondering when Ill buy a scope at this rate 🤔
got some 77mm metal dewshield for the roki from aliexpress
it screws on the filter thread. seems ok
but i noticed my Z61 scope's cap fits it perfectly and the WO bathinov mask can be used with it
What would generally be the settings to get the best star colour?
That depends on several things, but ultimately don't max out the well depth for good star color. You also may have to shoot in 2 different exposures if your nebulosity is super faint or you have low well depth in your camera
Oh yeah in this case I actually just wanted to shoot stars to use them as starfield on other images but I also have to shoot some Rgb stars for my dnb images. I reckon about half an hour of integration time should be enough?
And finding out technical details for daytime cameras proves to be difficult sometimes, maybe I can find something in the sensor's spec sheet
Yeah for star data you don't need a lot, 30 mins is quite plenty at f2, just need to drown out the read noise
https://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/Sensor_Characteristics.htm
Only site you ever need for that
For commercial cameras at least
For example
I'd rather step down a bit to get perfect stars? My copy isn't bad but it isn't that good xD
Oh thanks I looked but couldn't find it
I personally hate the roki diffraction spikes, so I use aperture rings instead
And with those I actually have really good stars at f2.3
Oh true I forgot about those, they do look quite spikey, I'll stick to 2.8 then, 2 is a bit unsatisfactory since I also have some tilt
New Roki image
If you want you could shoot at f/2 for like 90% of your data and then f/2.8 for the rest and then only use the stars from the f/2.8 data
Won't the nebulous structures suffer from that nonetheless?
I don't imagine it would affect the nebula that much, and since f/2 is twice as fast as f/2.8, f/2 should look better with twice the data in the same amount of time
At f/2, are your stars not round? Or is there just more chromatic aberration?
Tbh I never tried it at 2 because I assumed it could'nt be too fantastic but I did try it at 2,4 once and I was unsatisfied
But that could've been other factors as well, not quite sure
Should do a thorough test sometime
Alright, yeah I'd experiment with it, make sure you get perfect focus too, stars will look bad if focus is even slightly off at low f ratios
Yeah chromatic aberration can look much worse if focus is slightly off too.
Hmm does a bahtinov mask not provide enough accuracy?
next to autofocuser bahtinov mask is the best
Yes but focus does shift through the night, and an autofocuser not only keeps that in check, but also makes sure you're in a perfect spot. You can do the same with a baht mask, but it will be far more tedious
Oh tedious I can sing you a song about tediousness xD. Especially when I see that the temps will drop I refocus at least every 30 mins, also gotta polar align every now and then and I dither manually, which is especially unpleasant when it's cold outside
Sounds like you need a lot more toys then 😅
I mean when shooting narrowband focusing with the bahtinov mask is kind of tricky I find
I feel like NB you definitely need an autofocuser
More toys sound good 😄
I have a post somewhere in #1021002743080558642, could you have a look at the focus real quick?
My bad, it's in #1021002578588352572 @short charm
About to fall asleep here, so probably not right now 😅
No worries sleep well 😅
Another nice job from the Rokinon!
I've tweaked my process for imaging nebula now, I use the dual narrowband filter for the bulk of my imaging to get the nebula then use my basic uv/ir for some LRGB data and the stars, it seems to give much better stars for me, I then use the dual nb data for HOO and merge with the LRGB data
Haven’t tried it out yet, but will once the summer nebulae are up!
Trial run the settings
So you remember a step count what is a rough focus
Set eaf to reverse since its upside down. So it wont go over the infinity and jam against the stopper when doing the autofocus v-curve
Got it to focus on some nice tree branches 1/2 mile away 😬
Well maybe im an idiot about the upside down thing. But i had to use it on reverse setting
It racks the focuser alot of steps one way 1st
If its normal direction it will run out of travel in the focuser near infinity. With reverse it goes the other direction with plenty of room
Ok! Will do reverse when I actually have it do a run!
i’m getting a SWSA GTI with a roki 135mm attached to a nikon d3000. Swsa GTI has been ordered but will take 10-15 working days so if that’s true it won’t arrive for my birthday 😐 don’t even have enough for the lens yet but i can’t wait to get the whole set up done .
i’m coming from a celestron astromaster 70az so it’s a HUGE jump . can not wait
This little lens can grab the supernova from 22 million light years away!
Most impressive
Did you dither the subs? If so, drizzle 2x to do a cheeky crop closer.
usually its good to deconvolute and resample back to original scale, but its kinda neat to get a closer look that way
I sure did, every 6 mins. Never tried drizzle, ill give it a go
Probs works better with more dither. Gets better values for the new scale
My dithering is pretty extreme as I dont have a guidescope the dithering seems quite aggressive
Drizzled
I went a bit far with the decov but Ill play with it more. Nice idea @chilly ingot
@worthy grove crop more!
earlyer. so you focus all most of the processing to the meat of the image
easyer to dbe and stuff
yeah, makes sense
Hello friends, quick question. I have thoughts about buying the 135mm, the pictures are so amazing 🙂 but I only have the omegon lx3. Would you say that this easy tracking system can handle this? (weight would be all in all 1,56kg, so below the „allowed“ 3kg)
Well I use the SW az-gti and its fine (although the max load is 5kg thats in al-az mode and realistically in eq mode its probably more 3kg like you're omegon) so without knowing much about the omegon I would say it should be fine weight wise. what camera are you going to pair it with?
@chilly ingot Here we are with a closer crop with my 2x drizzle reprocessed as you suggested, what do you think?
I have to say for a 135 lens in B7 I do find it incredible we can almost match the res of some big newt rigs!
What ress is that
erm 3753x3207
Maybe some masking trickery to control the noise
like so it wont get stretched too much and saturated 
ill post the data in #1021002743080558642 so someone can have a crack
Well, the SW is totaly fine there, but at the moment I would rather like to spend money for a new lense. I use a Sony Alpha 7s, really nice noice behaviour, but resolution sucks. I have conserns about the lx3, cause its "only" an mechanical tracker
More weight capacity probably means a more accurate tracking, question is only for me where's the border of the focal length
If you're using a Full frame sensor then I don't think tracking should cause any issues for your resolution at 135mm
the 7s only got 12,1 MP 
MP doesnt matter. In fact lower generally means nice big low noise pixels
Only thing to consider is sonys star eater effect with the bigger pixels and lower FLs, not sure how pronounced that may be here though
Im getting a dual band filter for my roki, what do you guys think, IDAS NBZ or go all in with the ALP-T high speed? High speed is fine since the next scope I get will work with it still in the f/3-4 range
something you can return if you get halo's
yeah true
The nbz uhs is like f1.4 and abit slower, normal nbz is f2 to 3.5/4 ish
L-extreme f2 edition is coming. Dunno about halo’s and returning
I did a 5min sub at horsehead with NBZ and no halo. Was with f/4.7 tho 
there’s also a new NBZ called NBZ ex that is advertised for f/1.8 to infinity
it’s 12nm bandpass though
oh nice its like a l-enhance then
it’d be nice if they had a high speed l-Ultimate
I got an l-extreme second hand off eBay and boy does it give me lots of halos to clone out 😂
So I echo the advice to get something you're able to return
yeah halos are annoying, I'll make sure to get one I can return, good point
Do any of you use the ZWO EAF with your lens? Worth it?
Is printing a lens collar for this thing recommendable?
Having a focuser on anything is nice.
I use a diy focuser with mine 😅
Definitely worth it!
I wouldn't print a collar, I'd print a ring system instead, cause plastic is more bendy than metal so you want more than 1 point of contact
Would an aluminum one work to balance it better at steeper angles?
It will probably just bend less under that weight
Ive seen one for 15 bucks that is reviewed well and weighs 120g
I want to put less stress on my ballhead
Gotcha, well that will work, I used a collar myself for a bit before switching to a system
Ultimately, I went away from ballheads with this though, I just find that this lens in particular is quite heavy
At lower angles it works ok but once you get above 45° things get funky
And you switched to what exactly?
Allows guiding, mounting an autofocuser and is super sturdy
There's 3d printable versions as well
Is it mounted on an arca swiss plate?
You can mount it to one, just need a long one or the William optics switchable one
One thing to note is that you need a plate that doesn't have the grooves prefit for the standard screws, as these are m6 iirc
Or just mount a vixen to an arca swiss lol
Could I mount it on that?
So basically like that xD
You can also just order this with it
That way you're future proofed for a real mount
Why does everything get twice as expensive once william optics is printed on it 
Brands
I was going for something like that, doesn't need to be WO lol
But WO is cheaper than other dual designs from primaluce or the likes 😅
IS the difference between the upper one the material?
The upper one is just 3d printed, and seems to be sold out atm
The idea is very compelling, thanks for the info
Do you know of anyone here that has printed one of those rings?
Well those astrodymium rings linked are paid only I'm afraid, but I think @hazy copper had some other printed rings that are available to download?
@solid raptor https://www.printables.com/en/model/153157-openastrotech-samyangrokinon-135mm-cradle-with-foc
found it
also has an arca swiss plate
honestly, may print that myself and sell my astrodimium kit
since this is designed for the OAT
Do you plan to build that?
Mayhaps
Pretty

Waiting on nema cable extenders cause the nema14 cables are a bit too short for the focuser
And the AUTOPA system is complete, so now I just need to find a box big enough to hold it and I have a portable self setup system
And the nema 14 can run that thing?
Oh you mean the OAT, that's running nema 17s everywhere lol. The focuser part is nema14
And I just dialed in decent settings for the speed of the nema8, and it's barely not able to turn in one of the directions, so hopefully a stronger nema 8 will do it, gotta grab it out of the car
Can anyone here give me some input into whether or not my Roki 135 is a bad copy?
Way back when I first bought it, it looked perfect, but now comparing my images to other Roki 135 images, the amount of coma and aberration on mine is horrid
I'll send a PixInsight Aberration Inspector mosaic, let me know what you guys think
Wait I just did an aberration inspection and the stars are perfectly fine I think I'm tripping wth 💀
I'll take a shot anyway. Full photo, and mosaic
Looks ok to me. You're out of focus though?
The stars are blurred, unless the image you posted is really compressed?
Oh yeah no it's super compressed
I used a bahtinov mask, the focus was pretty dialed in
Ok fair enough. Hard to inspect the image of it's so compressed. The stars look ok to me though. The usual amount of chromatic aberration I would expect with that lens
Can you upload an unedited sub?
Did you do any star reduction? That can enhance any aberration
I find blur X can enhance the chromatic aberration that already exists and you have to back off the star reduction
I'll look at your sub later when I get to my computer
Usually the complaint with rokinon bad copies is tilt and it doesn't look like you have that
That's interesting, I'm gonna keep that in mind. Plus I think I clipped a lot of stars here and bloated a few since I was shooting at F/2 ISO 800 in a Bortle 3
I think it'd probably also help a lot to just go with shorter subs especially with the f/2
Is anyone using the roki with a FF camera?
I used to with the canon 6d
Were you happy with the fov?
For things like Orion and the heart nebula yes, but it wasn't long before I moved to the Uranus-c
I wouldn't have been able to get this with my 6d but I got some great Orion widefield shots I was very happy with
What do you adapt it with?
Looking at this properly i can see you are indeed in focus.. I shouldnt look on the phone, my bad.. .The sub looks fine too so i think your lens is fine, I think you may just have stacked some bad subs in your processed image as there are some funny shaped stars going on?
I love Rokinon lens 
Anyone use the Astronomik L-3 UV/IR cut filter? I'm getting a 2" IR cut filter and have read that this filter helps CA a little even though mine isn't too bad
I'm using an l-2 clip in myself, which is a bit narrower iirc
Are you using any uv/ir cut filters rn?
Also you need a uv/or not just ir cut filter, the CA usually comes from high frequency blue light, not the red
yeah I am, the ZWO one
and yeah you're right, its the blue haloing that can sometimes be a problem
L-3 is the narrowest of the three
The website says the L3 is designed for "refractors that have less than perfect color correction" and that it will "minimise the problem of bluish halos"
I got one end of last week, but I don't really know what to make of it right now. I feel like there is a bit of everything, but not sure if I should stick with it and i'm overreacting or not..
These are shot with a modded DSLR without any fitting UV/IR Cut filter. I know this will/ is causing issues as well (halos), but then I'm worried about having the stars in the center somewhat focused while they look like a smudge in the bottom right corner
idk 😅
Is your DSLR Ha modded or Full spectrum modded?
That would have been great question ask when I got it second hand
. Stumbled over the same issue/ question when researching a bit further - I don't think there is any way I can test this without needing to tear it apart?
But I would guess it is HA modded only, as I can still do a proper whitebalance of daytime taken photos in post processing - when looking at them in the camera itself they have a strong red hue with normal whitebalance if it helps
Yeah I dont think youd be able to white balance with full spectrum so youre probably right
I think the chromatic aberration in the first pic is normal but the aberration inspector corners do look weird, mine dont look like that with an APS-C sensor
hello i’m getting a roki 135 soon , what’s the difference between the two ? i have a nikon d3000 btw if that matters
it’s UMC and AE , both on amazon one out of stock one in stock
is it something to do with the focus and telephoto lens??
i’m not great with cameras tho and what lens suit cameras so i’m sorry if i get the obvious wrong lol
They're identical
Yeah they are the same company, just in different regions they sell under different names (and sometimes both brands exist in same region)
So whichever one is cheaper and you can send back multiple times to if stars are bad
Just make sure it's not the cine version
Which will have that in the name and will have very spiky rings meant for video adapters
The cine version is also identical aside from the click less f stop ring
Admittedly that is annoying, but it's usually cheaper and that might be worth it to you
I've used it for a while now and it works great
ahh okay so i can order either one and they will work the same ?? there’s nothing different in them just the case that one is in stock and one isn’t ?
@tender bison this was not a compliment. Ur copy is made on a monday by a hung over worker
Thank you for the feedback
Few kinds of aberrations visible to weird directions
the cine version is for amateur cinematography or videography, de-clicked aperture rings are necessary for that. you wouldn't get the cine version for something like astrophotography
Agreed, but for example in my case the cine was significantly cheaper
Yeah it's a drawback, but I image at f2 anyways and when I do eventually start using f2.8 for narrowband, I'm just going to use stop down rings
less spikes too
@twilit hound There's a really nice roki for sale rn, might be interesting for you 🙂
don't got the money right now sorry, but thanks
I only have managed to get $186 since I purchased that lens, plus I would only buy one if image samples were included as well
and if I did buy another 135mm lens it would probably be a sigma 135mm f1.8
lets start a canon 200 club 
another russian roulette lens probably
I dont like that lens for its spikes + red stars
Needs stopped down as well
Im not really into astrophotography either anymore
thats the nico copy that is worst ever recorded 
not sure about that but I've seen it almost all over astrobin
Sell the old roki, plus samples are included and the seller is a very forthcoming person. But yeah your reasoning is understandable
I unfortunately cannot sell things
nor can I return things either
once I buy them Im stuck with them, forever
what are you gonna do when you get out of jail?
lol what
when you get to expirience real freedom ofc
Idk
It's not that easy
moving out doesnt allow freedom if anything it just confines it even more
Just found out this chat exists, and was wondering, if any of you are looking for purchasing the lens? If so I just happen to be selling it, along with an autofocuser, adapter, rings, and guide scope handle…
For more info, send me a PM.
Pls let me know if such messages are not allowed in this thread, so I can remove it.
@chilly ingot my family is ok with me applying for getting a job next year. If that works out then I'll get back into this stuff

That's excellent, although I do recommend #1023613540587810846 would perhaps be a better place for that
ey its cool, send the sample images here btw. i think i saw ur advertisement and it looked ok
I have done that, but just so more people would be informed about it. I want to upgrade ASAP to a bigger scope😂
checked again. think you should click down abit 
Meaning.?
or is that backfocus actually 
That’s also tilt… unfortunately
My f/3.2 looks quite good ngl
same "tilt" with my dslr's and astrocams
so its inside the lens
tryed with M48 thread adapter, filter cell instead of drawer
etc etc
looks great
And in center it’s really sharp
I decided to just send it, this is 440x10 sec exposures of the cygnus region 
But hey, I can identify crescent and the tulip nebula
Did you check focus during imaging? 
These fast lenses drift pretty quick when the temp changes
yes, but not hard enough it seems 
I ordered a bahtinov mask, will try again then
that I cant really solve I think 😅
You sayd you got this lens end of last week?
yes
Im sorry man, i would return that particular sample 
I checked, I still have about two weeks left until I need / should return it - I want to give it another try with the bahtinov mask which should arrive end of this week
I also read to try not to focus on a star in the center but on the outer third, then the average is better, so I will try that too
are you shooting at f2 or clicking it down abit?
I think it was at bit further than f2.8
very likely 
I truly appreciate the second opinion
Mine is similar. It is literally a paperweight
i cant return it because i was clouded out for a month or two after getting it
Return period is 14days
for me
Bringing it to the service shop when im off work for two weeks soon
Praying something is just assembled wrong
I have to say, whatever ppl thought about the thread of @twilit hound about this lens, I truly appreciated just the information that these issues might popup, so I looked out specificially for the weather the next days for when it arrives before I ordered it 
A great roki will get good stars at like f2.8
If its super sharp at f2. Keep it for the rest of ur life. If someone wants it for astro. Ask 3times the price 😂
I sense a great opportunity of investement deals selling quality-controlled rokinons and returning the bad ones 
I dont mind a mild blue CA
but if the stars look like comets and helicopters….
in a traffic jam
@wild valve taking notes 😂 
What notes?
because yours doesn't seem to have these issues and looks tempting now
Oh no no… I’ll sell it for less then it is new.
I don’t want to rob anyone, and I want to get as much money from my used gear, as the new scope combo will cost.
its pretty bad.
Jasa`s? Actually I meant his offerring referring to your joke
I think it looks much better, especially looking at the f/2 open picture with the nikon
no, my roki
Does anyone have broadband target suggestions? (49°N)
Those with less Ha? theres quite a few dark nebulae in the north that are rising like the shark head nebula and that region in general. They are dim and need dark skies, but possible for unmodded cameras. You can shoot Rho Ophiuchi, it will be quite low for you but doable and bright
Oh yeah I'll definitely try Rho Ophiuchi if I'll have good vision on it and since I saw a nice possible dark-ish location maybe reflection (and perhaps dark?) nebulae might also be possible
Getting the integration time will be difficult with nights not longer than 2,5h 😬
Yeah there's a lot more NB targets right now, but you can definitely still get at some of them though!
At 49 north you're gonna have some trouble with rho lmao... honestly your best bet is dust in cepheus. Not a super optimal position right now, but it should work. It's all pretty dim, so you're gonna want to sink time into it if you can
Even though there's a lot of ha, cygnus really isn't bad in bb either. Especially if you have a modded cam that'd look pretty great
I'm at 39, rho is low but not undoable, guess 49 is much worse though if I think about it more
But not many bright broadband only targets rn
Yeah it'll only rise up to 15° that's not much but I don't think I'll need thaat much data on it
I guess I'll stick to narrowband, though it is quite frustrating on a stock xD
Time to mod lol. Or get a modded camera, you can find them cheapish at times. You can also look for ghost cameras cause those "hunters" do the same mods as we do but it may be cheaper
That's actually a good idea, the ghost modded cameras are cheaper than astro modded 
no astro tax? 
No way xD
I want to mod but not my a6000
That's why I wanna sell it and get sony full frame to mod
A7ii or a7iii
Hmm there's a modded a7ii for 450€ on ebay, doesn't sound too bad...
At that price get a used 533
Cheapest one I see is 588,plus I'd probably have to get quite a few accessories
But the thought is tempting
it finally came , this will make my nikon d3000 useful💀
nice, let me know how the stars are 
thankyou , i will do , i’ll send them here 🙂 goona try a shirt untracked exposure tonight to see if they’re good enough , if not i’ll send it back and get the lens by the time my SWSA GTI arrives
i’m testing the lens out and it keeps saying this , to lock the f ratio do i turn it to the right till i can’t anymore then i click this to lock it in ?
The lens is completely manual with no electronics. There must be some camera settings to tinker so you dont get that message
Might be some dumn white balance thing or something
ahh okay , i’ll try it out again later
every time my camera turns off it pops back up
we have a problem my focuser doesn’t turn to the infinity sign , great
Yeap. Common thing to do is to remove to stopper to access the extra 5mm of focuser throw. Usually helps when then lens contracts in the cold
Usually these kinds of things voids warranty. Perfectly good optical quality roki’s need this too
Its a shame
how many hours do you think id need to bring out the Ha clouds around andromeda with a dualband filter? lol
oh you mean the newly discovered big faint areas?
isnt that with some special oxygen filers and not ha?
insert Caphe xD

This image was actually taken by a friend of mine
Let me look at the exposure he used
10 hours, 7 from b9 and 3 from b4
at f/5 cause he used the Meade Quad right?
That was with a roki lmao
F2.8 I'm guessing, that's usually what he uses with the l extreme
And 533mc
Damn nice, thats my setup too except I dont have the filter yet, Im planning to get the highspeed ALP-T
I know he uses the meade quad so I assumed it was that
That's sketch
I don't think he has a mead quad lol
Jimmy (another person who has done a really nice m31 ha image) does, maybe you're getting it mixed up with him?
im thinking of jimmy yeah, idk how I got that picture and thought it was him then 
Jimmy's definitely had a lot more detail, but his gear was also way more advanced
Its... doable with a swsa. Just not super fun
this is jimmys yeah
I know the details of the image were posted on reddit but the reddit is privated right now
Yeah lol
I think it was ~30h though
If you want good m31 clouds you need to sink data
yeah itll take a while to get a good result
although your friends image is really good
10 hours isnt too bad
and in a city
Honestly, I'm not sure I'd bother unless you could get a solid 20 though
im willing to do 20
I think I'll try f/2.2
and itll all be from bortle ~4.5 where I am
You should definitely be able to pull something out then
At least with proper processing
What's the bandpass on the filter you're getting for ha?
this is one of the most beautiful andromedas ive seen
such good HA
really makes it pop
Jimmy is amazing lmao
Since im using a dualband filter I wonder how much of the inner oxygen structure(not the arc) I can get
yeah true, alp-t seems to be one of the better ones in that regard at least
You'd just need to see though, oiii m31 is quite new
Oh wait that one is 5nm
That's actually quite good lmao
and expensive as hell lol
what
Because of this statement gping against your experiences
oh
Also too long exposures
Can get away with untracked if you take a pic at polaris i think
Zoom live view to 10x and look at the bright star get smaller as you turn the focuser. If it clunks to stopper before it went a larger again from smallest size the stopper needs to be removed 
ill try a shorter one tonight
has anyone ever done the fix themselves ?
like take the stopper out and then fix the focus
the infinity stop? I have, it’s easy
What exactly is "Infinity Focus" and what are the potential problems with a hard stop for infinity on a lens? This video also addresses how to modify a Rokinon 135mm f/2 camera lens if you are having trouble reaching infinity focus on the stars.
Screwdriver set: https://amzn.to/2YfTTjc
Magnetic Project Mat: https://amzn.to/3wk7ZwQ
Camera Modif...
ah yeah i didn’t wanna take it apart i was too scared , but i got recommended a scope double for focal length for £130 more so i went for the scope , zenithstar 61






