Jupiter and Saturn through my reflector
#Phone Astrophotography
1 messages · Page 10 of 1
Skywatcher 127 mak with my s20 phone and phone holder and a 32mm plossl
Jupiter photo that I took a month ago
andromeda galaxy through a cheap 25mm plossl eyepiece
50x3s livestack iphone 11 pro processed in siril
Managed to take these photos of andromeda with just my phone on a simple app
Why is there a color divide between two sections of the photo? Also, what is this “simple app” because I want it.
astroshader, only available for iphones currently
Alright I downloaded it.
shoot in raw format if you can
Same ig:D
Dbe
Really nice
Get a uranus-c, or better a cooled one from Meow Astro
if that means background extraction i did
You need a better one
I wish I had the cash to get a cooled camera
When your stuck at work and it's clear skies 😒
Get workin
@edgy talon is offically the new edon cox
I'm allowed a break now and again 😂
Nah I won't tell some1 to get a powerseeker or stare at the sun
Thanks
damn your pfp is amazing
Xd
I FInally got a hint of nebulosity (114/900 scope and samsung A04e
I'm sorry dawg
That's just a gradient
chronic schizophrenia
Very appreciated, wanting to ask, is there a possibility you have an unprossed video? I would like to compare slightly, to see if I'm on the right path here.
Cool, good app to possibly look at!
Also, do you recommend the lite version or the pro version of that app?
Pro version is better
Nice, will get that then.
Definetly, but probably better than my stock pro mode on my galaxy camera app.
Also, do you have any footage of Jupiter you would have used to make a final image?
I'm trying to compare mine to someone's for a rough idea of what I should look for
Wowza that's cool! What settings (like iso and shutter speed) did you use?
Thin clouds began to move in last night, maybe affected it a little
Also discord compression is going to make me cry
increase exposure, also get a barlow or switch to a higher power lens (assuming clouds dont exist)
Ok, I beleive this is my 20mm with a 2x barlow, perhaps just stick to a 10mm lens?
yeah, or barlow and 10mm
seems quite undersampled
I noticed the 10mm with the barlow was a little poor for seeing last night, should I consider investing in smaller lens?
lens wouldnt change seeing
Without the barlow?
Probably, I'm just planning ahead at this point, clouds for days are ahead. Was lucky to get to test my stuff last night 
20mm + barlow would only be better if you needed the eye relief or the fov of the 20mm
if they were identical in terms of those factors then the 10mm would be better*
Ok, I understand increasing the exposure, would there be a good ISO you'd recommend that doesn't make it all too bright?
Gotcha
lower is better, i run with 50 and a 30/ of a second exposure but that would depend on the telescope
I beleive its f/5. 650mm focal length with a 130mm inch apeture I beleive
yeah that would be more exposure
Collimation has been recently done, I had an issue with it a while back 
Ok, so crank up the exposure and keep the iso lower?
depends, what exposure are you using right now?
1/60
That's the highest my built in camera app allowed me, but I bought a pro app, so I can go higher
It supports 1/5th of a second
one or two steps higher on the exposure with a 10mm lens will most likely produce the optimal results 1/40th maybe
Alright, I'll test out a few exposures on firday, turns out I'll have a clear night 
Appreciate the help man! Thanks
no prob
I dont remember
All good. Got some help already. Thanks for your help.
Yo dude, why is there a whirlpool towards Andromeda?
I want to attach my phone to my ap rig just for fun but its not worth the time cuz its limited xd ☁️
looks like one of my old pictures of omega cent
when the jpeg is compression
seems like a bit of dew somewhere, pretty good though
Maybe poor viewing today?
This perhaps is a lil better
exposure seems good. although due to the compression that phone videos have it might be better to take several raws
threw my phone on my rig for fun since I already had it set up but my camera was feeling depressed
20 minutes give or take
big dippah
WHOA
Which phone/camera did you use and what is bortle scale at your location 
Imaging Date & Time:
7/11/2023 ~12:40AM CST
Imaging Location:
Melissa, TX, USA
Equipment Used:
Astrosmaster 130EQ Telescope (130mm aperture 650mm focal length f/5) equipped with Celestron Smartphone Mount, Celestron 2x Barlow Lens, Celestron 10mm eyepeice, Celestron RA Motor Drive.
LG Velvet 5G Smartphone (Android 13)
LM-G900 (1.8mm aperture 4.806mm focal length f/1.9)
Image Details:
Image shot with Motioncam android app.
1:46 minutes of raw video footage (2644 frames) at ISO 50, 1/100 of a second exposure time at 30 fps, 12mp resolution 4000x3000. Footage rendered into individual raw uncompressed DNG files with vignette correction totaling 59.1GB data.
Resulting image preprocessed in PIPP (converted uncompressed DNG files into a SER playback file), processed in Autostakkert! 3 (a total of 3472 frames stacked as a result of duplicated good frames in PIPP), post processed in Siril and Darktable.
Bro casually produces an amazing image with the Astromaster 130 
Also, does shooting at 30fps rather than 60fps make a large difference?
@fading bobcat Thank you. My phone wont do 60 fps. 30 and below.
@fading bobcat how many frames for your shot?
@fading bobcat I would think the only difference between 30 fps and 60 fps is the exposure time. If your camera aperture is large enough you should be able to get thousands of frames in a couple of minutes.
what fps options u have
personally before I upgraded my phone camera to the uranus-c, I would shoot in basic definition quality at 120fps
Shooting in pro mode, i have FHD 60, 30, 24fps, UHD 60, 30 24fps, and HD 30. I shoot in UHD 60fps
I get 1/60th exposure, which is what I shoot at with 60 fps.
@fading bobcat raw video correct?
I'd say UHD 60 is fine
According to light pollution map I live in bortle class 4 area but it just like bortle 6 sky I can just see some bright stars
And anyone tell me why
can u send the map link
Is there an option for raw video in Samsungs camera settings?
It's pro mode, so I expect it to be able to take .raw
Just turned it on... should make a difference
Clear skies tonight, so will go for it again.
Sounds good. How long you think I should shoot for, 30 seconds, 15 seconds?
I've done both, using 20mm + 2x barlow. So I'm thinking the smart option is 30 seconds.
yes
u should try 1 min too for the sake of it
so
Ok, so I also have a separate camera app, there's no raw option
There's Jpeg, WebP, and PNG
It's all untracked, but I'll try up to a minute.
@sour turret do you film in .raw format?
Asking, trying to find an app that films in .raw
Weird question, how long were you outside?
Usually, you need to be outside for a while (30 minutes is good) to let your eyes adjust, then you'll see more.
South Magellanic Clouds
.
📋 Exif
📷 Xiaomi 12 + eq3 equatorial mount.
⚙61x60s ISO 400.
📌 Mg, Brazil. Bortle 4
@fading bobcat Motioncam. I dont know if there is an ios version but I bet there is
It's android, so yeah
@fading bobcat capturing raw video is a game changer. More frames, less time, more features. I realized it became essential for Jupiter. I read a bit of a soft rule is, 3 min for Jupiter and 5 min for Saturn. Otherwise you'll end up stacking movement of planetary feature. I also read you can derotate but I'm not doing that. Must get pure raw data!
Cool! Where's that at?
Also I am on android.
Cloudy Nights
Page 1 of 2 - Is 3 minutes too long for Jupiter? - posted in Major & Minor Planetary Imaging: You often hear the advice that you can shoot Jupiter for up to 3 minutes before needing to derotate, 5 for Saturn. But I have always been uneasy with this advice, as I have never heard anyone mention image scale when they give it, which it has to depend...
Is there any settings I need to change in app for RAW videos?
Yeah. I got that, is there any settings in app I need to change/would be best to change?
@fading bobcat these are my latest settings.
Done
Assuming they'll work pretty well
I did not crop 60% before as I didn't know if that would impact resolution or not and didn't want to take the chance. I reached out to the app developer and he assures me it just simply crops down without affecting resolution. This is great news as this will give me more frames with smaller file size. My micro sd card is only 64 GB
How large are files usally?
you will have vignette in your images with these settings. Also do not clip your highlights with his settings. Means be careful with your exposure time or you will have blown out areas. Best to underexpose a little. However, I think 1/100 second exposure time may have been a little too under exposed. Try 1/60 instead.

full resolution 4000 x 3000 is 24.01 MB
I shoot at 1/60
60% cropped is 3.85 MB
How do you counter the vignetting?
I used to shoot 1/50 but was afraid was too bright. But now going back and forth in my head about that. Or somewhere in between.
Counter vignetting by selecting correct vignette. But means that your dng will have digital processing in it. Best to take flat calibration frames and remove it that way
@fading bobcat I doubt you would even see the vignette at cropped down to 1600 x 1200 and furthermore image will be cropped more before the stack. I crop down to 448 x 448
Yeah. In Pipp it crops it down alot, usually makes my image look really bad so I increase it a lil
@fading bobcat I'd say its appropriately cropped when planetary mode is selected. What gear do you have? Scope, lenses, etc
130/650mm telescope, so it's f/5.
Using a 20mm lens with a svbony 2x barlow.
Camera is a galaxy s20fe phone cam
The I use pipp, registax, and autostakkert
It's just abnormally pixelated
But I can try letting it do its thing when I process later tonight.
@sour turret I do have a 10mm lens that is usable, but is more difficult to use with my phone.
Someone have Samsung galaxy A32?And know how to take good shoot with it?
What type of shots?
Planetary or DSO?
Planetary
Ok, so with planets, you don't take images
You record short videos and process them in software like Pipp, Registax, and Autostakkert
I'm not the one to be telling you the best ways to photograph planets though, as I'm still learning
So, if I were you I'd go to #🤓-ask-a-nerd
Soo you prefer videos I took 39 shots of jupiter but its don't look like jupiter
Yeah, you take videos.
Mines not the greatest, but I processed a video and got this
I really suggest you go to #🤓-ask-a-nerd and ask more professional people than myself
On my phone i see this
What equipment do you use?
I know about your phone, but what telescope, lens, etc
Sky watcher 130/900 and barlow x2 and x10 lens
Ok, so that's pretty solid, compared to what I got...
You got a 20mm lens?
Hm
If the 10x lens looks good with the barlow (visually) you'd probably be ok to stick with that
But yeah, it looks like that in your image cause the exposure.
The foto I send I take with barlow x2 and x10 lens
When you film Jupiter, bump your iso down (I use around 50), and then your exposure can be around 1/60th of a second
I personally zoom in with my phone after focusing.
So it makes it look bigger 
I try
Again, possibly go into #🤓-ask-a-nerd and ask there, and try to get a more experienced person to help out. But I wish you clear skies, good luck.
@fading bobcat I use celestron phone mount. Should work well with 10 mm eye peice. Mine has 2 x barlow with 10 mm eyepiece. Also, now that you will be taking raw video frames of jupiter, it will come out way better. Especially with 2000 + frames. Things start looking right at 1800 frames but ive gotten the red spot with some detail with as little as 500.
@fading bobcat you basically have same specs as I do.
Turning the iso down will help bring out some detail in the photo
You can do that on your iPhone camera by dragging you finger next to your focus point
keep iso down to the least possible. Then adjust exposure time. If exposure time is longer than 1/10 you risk streaking. My 2 cents... Only works for planetary. For nebulae exposure time shall be in seconds to minutes. Must have good stability.
Take test shots
I imagine you pre process multiple videos in PIPP and join them together to process later?
@fading bobcat no sir. I preprocess the whole duration of the frames in PIPP.
Clarify please?
Neverwhere please dont try and ping an entire server :/
@frigid sparrow thank you for the reminder, I actually dont intend to or like doing that
@fading bobcat I have a process to get prepared for the shot. in this case, now a raw video shoot using Motioncam android app (used to be with DeepSkyCamera Beta), so I will keep the scope of my latest technique. If you would like to know the specifics of the process before the shot, let me know and I'll explain that separately. When it comes to processing in PIPP, I use quality weighing option and push all of the top quality frames to the beginning of the video file, in this case a .ser file. NOTE: I suggest downloading a ser player program. Conceptually, since my intention is to get nothing but good quality frames at the shortest amount of time to get all of the planetary feature frozen in time ("good" SNR stacked), I will process the entire load of frames captured anyway, and analyze the quality later in the next step which is using AS!3 to stack the images. If i did good, about 75% of the frames will be acceptable for stacking. In the case of the latest Jupiter image i posted, all 2644 frames were processed in PIPP, but only about 70-75% of them got stacked, as I got picky about it. I intentionally looked through all of the frames in AS!3 and analyzed in the ser video player, and determined that 3472 out of 4627 (1983 got added as duplicate frames by PIPP) were any good for the stack. I did do some trial and error here and I underexposed the frames (1/100th of a second exposure time plus 30 fps) So I also had to stretch the the histogram white point 75% to brighten it up.
@fading bobcat honestly that wasn't good enough either. The stack in AS!3 was the same detail (best i had gotten) but much too dark, so I auto estimated the RGB in the ser player options in ser player app to brighten it up some more and then stack that version. I named it the "brighter version test". That was the one that came out better (only because it was brighter). Then I post processed in Siril, then Darktable.
Would siril be an improvement compared to processing on Registax?
@fading bobcat yes. i say this because, although registax has an amazing wavelet filter, it causes the image to become flat. the reason i had to use Siril is because of the chromatic aberration i noticed when using Motioncam and capturing so many frames. They say, chromatic aberration is caused by the optics not by the app, but i only see this 'green around the edges' issue when using Motioncam. I have changed by camera raw mode to RAW10 so i wonder if that will "fix" it. otherwise, it will be fixed with the option to get rid of that green mess altogether in Siril.
Well, I'm preparing to get film atm, will not be able to text.
So I might have to leave my questions until after.
Might be able to sit in speak easy, but that's about it.
@fading bobcat all good. i keep getting better and better at planetary imaging using smartphone camera and the same Celestron Astromaster 130 scope, so i am willing to share the knowledge.
I've gotten better in the matter of nights cause of people like you. About to start filming in a minute, so I may not be able to text.
the astromaster series doesn't really have decent optics, so expect aberration when using it
Should I shoot with a 20mm lens + 2x barlow or a 10mm lens?
Thinking the 2x barlow
10 mm would be more clean
putting the 20mm in a 2x barlow will just add more things in the light path
Ok, so ill try the 10mm
alr
Any of you available to be in speak easy vc, in case I have a inquiry?
Also viewing is incredible tonight, might I add
@fading bobcat not here in north texas lol
Lol
ill be radio silent for a while ...
i'm free rn
Lovely, care to accompany me?
why not
Hazzah
Let me put some headphones on, I suppose
In speakeasy, whenever you want
@sour turret should I use infinite focus in Motionca?
@chilly vessel Lost connection, mb
@chilly vessel Can't stay connected, no vc I guess.
oof
focus using the moon
currently IO is near jupiter, use that to check focus
Alright
@fading bobcat no infinite focus. Use scope manual focus to the best of your ability. Use Motioncam focus as fine focus.
Well, you should be pleased to know that my mount has officially been Onsteped. Check out a quick stack of 10 2 sec exposures of the Orion Nebula on iPhone SE 2
Still figuring things out and badly need a coma corrector, but I think it’s pretty good for the time it took me
Although, weirdly enough, I only have a large diffraction gradient in one direction despite me having a cross style spider.
google drive
EYY IM WALKIN HERE
"Light pollution map" https://www.lightpollutionmap.info
Interactive world light pollution map. The map uses NASA VIIRS, World Atlas 2015, Aurora prediction, observatories, clouds and SQM/SQC overlay contributed by users.
Hmm that can be an explanation
outdated
it states 2015 in the description so
HOOTAYYYY
@fading bobcat go to manage videos and select render dng using the recommended settings on the screen shot I sent you. I recommend that you use micro sd card storage for the rendered dng, but if you have the internal storage space, use it as it writes faster.
@fading bobcat if you want to export the video, you will have to pay for the app. No need to do this as you can take the individual dng files (use render dng option) and transfer them to your computer and use PIPP to preprocess them into a ser file. Download a ser player program. https://astrowhat.com/resources/ser-player.89/. You can also find a ser player for linux if you are running that OS. use that ser file in Autostakkert.
@fading bobcat there you go! How many frames was that one?
I had a poor night last night, I beleive it was a 15 second video at 30fps, then used the best 25%
I want to shoot more tonight!
@fading bobcat you'll get significantly better results with more frames. So, your shot was 1/60 exposure time, and you used PIPP, Autostakkert and registax6?
Yes, also weirdly touched up some on ps 😵💫
I looked at trying it on siril, but it seemed as if my results weren't as good, personally.
1/60, and 50 iso.
@fading bobcat perfect. Maybe Lightroom would have worked for post processing?
I can always try that too.
But since I was on my pc already, I gave ps a shot
@fading bobcat only 10 mm eyepeice?
My 10mm lens wasn't as good as 20mm + 2x barlow
I feel if I do get a better 10mm lens, it'd outperform
Any 10mm recommendations?
@fading bobcat hmm, strange you should get better detail with 10 mm lens and 2x barlow. Thats what I used.
Oh you want it partnered with my barlow?
I still think it'd look worse, since the 20mm is better than the 10mm
@fading bobcat thats how I do it. 5 mm focal length
You got a recommendation for a 10mm lens?
@fading bobcat in my experience 20 mm just makes it brighter, due to the properties of optical magnification. My 2 x barlow and 10 mm eye peice are Celestron. Nothing special. 10 mm eyepeice came with scope and the barlow I bought on amazon.
Yeah, I'll look into getting a better 10mm lens
Especially if they're better than the 20mm
@fading bobcat its only "better" in that it allows you to see details better. Rather its just magnifying the details that are already there. You wont see those details nearly as well on your phone screen but the signal is there. And when you feed all of that signal into Autostakkert it all shows up 🙂
well done
Is this Andromeda
I think yess.
Jupiter. Very bad sseing the day i did this.
Oh god discord compression makes it appear even worse than it already was
@narrow nexus looks like heavy use of wavelet filter too
yes
cool
My very first Orion Nebulae, with a Samsung a52s phone, very happy with the results, could def be better
Hey man, glad to see you here! Amazing results with MotionCam 🙂
@dense gorge thank you! I really didnt think that shot would come out ok. Took too long to get set up. Saturn was on its way to set in the west and swimming in light pollution. I went ahead and nabbed over 5000 frames in around 10 minutes. Came out ok, wish it was somewhere much closer to zenith in the sky at ~ 11 pm CST
@floral parcel thats awesome, I havent gotten Andromeda yet
The moon and Jupiter
well I guess if yall are going to throw down orion nebulae pics 😁 taken october 15
orion rises directly above me, will shoot soon
@chilly vessel one of my favorites!
taken 3 days ago
hehehehe
guess who cooking with s23 ultra, r6 mark 2 and uranus-c
Bro where tf do you live i need to go there so i can image orion the whole night
1 degree off the equator
also don't come here pls
it's b9
Damn, perfect but not so perfect place
if it works
jk it fcking doesn't
bro was dreaming 😭
better color I think
Niceeee✨✨💯
@solemn spindle daaaaaaaang, thats awesome. How many frames over how much time?
Bumped up the exposure in post a tad, to bring the moons out
This is the untouched one.
about 30 seconds 900 frames
@solemn spindle are you using pipp to preprocess?
@fading bobcat you used 20 mm eyepeice for that shot?
Did you tried Siril for stacking and processing?
@dense gorge stretched histogram white point in pipp and improved processing in Siril yes. Finished with Darktable
@dense gorge I added two extra frames in pipp and still used Autostakkert to stack. 43 ap.
I think, you should consider Registax or waveSharp for sharpening
@dense gorge I've flirted with registax on sharpening but it is very touchy and can make images look flat and lose contrast. I had not heard of wavesharp though
@dense gorge I assume above image is wavesharp, that is amazing
wavesharp is a new thing from Registax dev 🙂 I actually used wavesharp
@dense gorge do you think registax as better at stacking than Autostakkert? Or is registax just better at sharpening than autostakkert?
I personally prefer this
- Align and Stacking over Autostakkert, but I recently sticked only to Siril.
- Histogram and basic processing - Siril
- Sharpening - Siril, not amazing, but good. Registax is solid, but wavesharp is superior.
- Final touch only through Siril (Croping, colors), I finally left GIMP, Darktable and I finally can use only FIT and use best format, no more TIF.
btw: Don't underestimate bias frames even at planety capturing, smartphone sensor is super small and we want to maximaze signal much as possible 🙂
yeah, i was thinking of switching over to FIT as well. I have not taken the time to do nearly all of the work in siril yet.
Well, in my opinion Siril is best open source software right now and devs + community pushing a lot of work. Only better software is Pixinsight but very complex and closed source and you need to pay 🙂
@dense gorge also have only taken darks, have not used bias frames or flats yet and thats next on my to do list of improvements. Problem is in lack sufficient time to do a lot of these things, but I know its worth the setup.
@dense gorge I like free too lol
Well, I've no problem to pay software, if software mets quality
@dense gorge I need to learn to use siril to its fullest potential and graduate from pipp and autostakkert
Darkframes, hmm great idea, they contains bias noise + dark itself. Some people just only use dark frames, because it's easier 😄
In the short exposure, I don't see much benefits of darkframes
btw: As soon as amount of frames increase I decided to use Siril only on Linux, I reached much faster processing speed than Windows.
@dense gorge I noticed that pipp seemed to only recognize darks and flats for processing master frames, but not bias. Its funny you mention the bias frames because i was thinking I ought to take them anyway. They are not hard to take.
@dense gorge good to know as I prefer using nix. I need to upgrade my LTS release. I assume siril is in a repo?
Yes, they have Siril in repo. BTW: Nix is great choice 🙂
I personally use Arch Linux and OpenSUSE Tumbleweed 😄
@dense gorge kubuntu here
Nice
@dense gorge I think im on 20.04 😬
Yes
Device: S23 Ultra 10x cam build-in.
Iso 1000
Exposure 271 x 1,3s (untracked)
Cpatured on MotionCamera
Processed in Siril
Did you used telescope our your S23 Ultra is To Good!
No, I only used buil-in camera 10x optical zoom camera - equal to 230mm f/4.9. I also slightly edited that, these images are even better a little bit. 😄
Kk
20mm, 2x barlow
@solemn spindle looks like you almost got the red spot!
@fading bobcat I got my 6 mm eyepeice so when is get the opportunity I will be shooting Jupiter again.
@fading bobcat I need to clean my primary and secondary mirrors and see if I can fine tune collimation even more. Really good collimation is probably the most important aspect to astrophotography. I think next to collimation is fine focus. Do everything you can to take great shots so you have to do very little in post 🙂
@solemn spindle what hardware are you working with?
iphone 11 and skywatcher 150p
no
Yeah, I'm wanting to get a "smaller" one than my 10mm lens, but then go wider than my 20mm lens, any recommendations?
Moon photo dump from today
sharpening go insane
sharpened the image, need to sharpen more (joke)
minor increase in sharpening (lie)
My eyes...
stop it before u summon an external lifeform
fun fact, if you "remaster" a photo in the built in camera app you can apply the effects unlimited times!!111!!
Jupiter
130PDS
6mm+2x barlow, Redmi note 7
It needed more sharpening
M o r e
More
you can literally see the sharpening algorithm 😭
MOREEE
I want the moon sharp enough to cut through concrete like butter
@fading bobcat I think 4 mm is the least you can go on a 650 mm focal length f5 scope like yours and mine. As for wider, looks like 32 mm is included in a kit from amazon. Probably use that to view DSO
Moooore😅😅
Looks fun if you scroll quickly
Moon mountains
SW130pds, EQ3-2 onstep
Redmi note 7
6mm+2x barlow eyepiece
You can see the compression artefacts (the squares) courtesy of discord’s attempts to ruin everything we do
The Motioncam is really very good, I have never received such quality. But it takes up a lot of memory and you need a powerful processor on your computer.
oh yeah it’s probably that instead
Yeah, that's basically raw capturing ... so CPU, memory, GPU everything is under pressure, but quality and result is totally another level
Anyway, feel free to join on MotionCam Discord, experts and beauty results from MotionCamera are appreciated.
We recently created astro channel for people who are crazy with MotionCam + astro 🤓
MORE
i've done all I can lol I think we hit the limit
nah i think we can do more
i spammed that image sharpen 5 times in gimp lol
Better?
you made it brighter
I tried sharpening and graining
not much difference regardless
m o r e
Xddd
Moon turned into microwave baccground radiation
lol
Guys? Do you use usually use drizzle?
@dense gorge I think i might have flirted with drizzle in Autostakkert but haven't gone back to seeing if it can improve my images.
@spring viper take 5000+ frames of saturn at 4:3 cropped 60% 1600 x 1200 and you'll be amazed by how much better that SNR gets 😌🪐
Yes, I just have to wait for the next clear weather) That night it was about -8°C and the phone quickly ran out
What's about 30 000 and stack best 10%?
@spring viper that sounds like great atmospheric condition! I dont get so lucky to have no wind and it be that cold in texas. Also while saturn is still in good view. My days of viewing saturn are running out. Days still left viewing jupiter.
Yeah, seeing was really good, but the telescope took a very long time to cool down
@dense gorge I dont think have space on my phone for 30000 frames lol. Besides thats like almost 17 minutes worth of video 😂
Good point 😄
@spring viper if I know I have a good cold night coming up, I'll set the scope out in the back patio for a day or two. I also do this to thermal cycle the scope to settle the hardware. Especially after collimation, which I have been reworking lately.
THAT was from an iPhone!?
Android
@plush palm Andromedamn
@spring viper we have almost the same photo. 2 x barlow + 10 mm eyepiece. 130 mm aperture. Raw video footage with Motioncam, 2644 frames
@spring viper will do Jupiter again with 6 mm eyepiece (=3 mm with 2 x barlow) come on detail! Will probably do no more than 3 minutes. No need for winjupos!
I would sharpen it a bit more and maybe even saturate the colours a bit more
it looks really good for a picture taken with a phone
and with just a 2x Barlow ?
wow
I have a 2x and a 3x Barlow that I stack to get a 5x Barlow but still I can't get such results well done
I have the Heritage 130p by the way
You should be careful to not overkill the optical zoom
When you do so, then you can't reach focus
i've definitely overkilled the mag but I can't see any quality difference...only brightness difference
Maybe you need a better eyepiece
Like a quality 6 mm eyepiece and the 3x barlow should be good enough
As I see MotionCamera unlocked entirely new level smartphone capturing 😁
Actully my First Time Doing an Photo of an Deep Space object
Good job. There are really a lot of details here. I shot my Jupiter through another application because I didn’t have enough memory on my phone
@spring viper Retrospectively, if I had cropped while recording, it should have only taken up around 18 GB storage. Maybe you have that much?
@fiery rover trust me, I fought with the saturation quite a bit. A problem i ran into with my last run of Jupiter was chromatic aberration. I never had that issue before using DeepSkyCamera Beta, despite being aware that chromatic aberration is and optical phenomenon. I have only had this green problem when using Motioncam. So it made sharpening and saturation difficult as more red appeared where the green was removed. It was my best attempt to neutralize that 🤷♂️
My storage has 64GB, but 61/64 are occupied
you got this with the deepskycamera ?
you didn't take a video ??
this is a a stack of photos ?
damn
You can use USB-C and fast flash drive storage.
@fiery rover I did take video with Motioncam. I had previously used DeepSkyCamera Beta. Yes that is a stack of 2644 raw frames. 2 x barlow, 10 mm eyepeice, 130 mm aperture, LG Velvet 5G phone. Trick is to get really well collimated, good alignment to eyepeice from phone and really good focus. The rest is tracking and recording raw video.
hmmmm...so post-processing isn't actually that important
interesting
@fiery rover imo, you should have to do very little in post. Things ive generally had to do in post is a little more sharpening, but that's because i should get better collimation and better focus and keep the object dead center of eye peice as best I can. A little more sharpening in post will always help regardless though. The other thing I generally have to do in post is remove stray light glow around the planets. This is because I need to keep my optics clean and perhaps flock the primary mirror and the inside of the ota.
hmmmm...do you have an eq??
@fiery rover yep
I've a dob so I can't track it manually...I have to pause the video and then center the object
what telescope do you have ??
@fiery rover I used to do that until I leanred how to properly use the EQ. Then I realized that all I really needed was an RA motor and learn to do really good polar alignment.
@fiery rover Astro master 130
no way...can the astromaster achieve such a result ?m
the pros in this server told me it's trash and advised me to go for the e
heritage 130p
damn dude
@sour turret that's crazy
damn
@fiery rover I mean, they arent wrong. Astromaster 130 is a huge PITA and collimating it well is a PITA, but its can perform. I have the images to prove it lol
hmmm...so it's just hard to use
@fiery rover for the longest time I thought it was total trash until I learned that it just needs to be well collimated, which applies to all telescopes anyway. But has some weirdness to it in that i actually have to concentrate more on extra focus collimation instead of intrafocus collimation. In the end, a star test looks good in both. I have spent MANY hours star collimating on polaris.
damn
@fiery rover its not so much hard to use, im mean it isnt luxrious, everything has to he done manually. Even the RA motor drive is variable speed so getting that right takes time.
@fiery rover my avatar image is a 20 second exposure using the same scope with 2 x barlow and 10 mm eyepiece. I should have just imaged with 10 mm eyepiece only. Used DeepSkyCamera Beta. Orion nebula
oh wow...what's your bortle??
I guess it's not that high
@fiery rover I honestly have no idea. I live in north texas and I want to get shots from my back yard so 🤷♂️. I deal with whatever light pollution I have.
oh nice
I know this looks terrible but trust me I just took this two day ago with just a phone,no tripod and no real zoom(only digital) photo of venus
@fiery rover for DSO, we really need to use a camera with a larger aperature, like a DSLR. Its going to be tough to get much outside of orion nebula. Ive gotten M13 before and intend on getting it again with better tracking.
🫤🫤🫤🫤
I need to make a custom goto for my heritage
and then buy a proper camera
I'm thinking probably a Neptune 664c
prime focus fans in shambles
Hello guys I just got a new phone with 50 Mp camera
Use RAW if possible
Guys? Does anybody have a idea how to improve output of my S23 Ultra 10x lens with 10Mpx - 230mm f4,9?
My first attempt in the past:
I captured 1000 frames and stacked 20% best.
My recent attempt:
I captured 2100 frames and stacked 20% best, but it was just same quality as in the past with 1000 frames.
I want to push the quality much as possible, I already talked with @outer basin, he recommended
- Take a dark frames
- Use fewer amount of frames
I already tried use fewer amount of frames, I have perfectly focused 2100 frames and I stacked only 1%, It was 22 frames and seems to be noisy - I believe that could be fixed by dark frames, but quality seems to be still similar or even just same.
My next idea: is to apply deconvolution to all frames in order to eliminate atmospheric and optical interferences and then registr, stack.
Does anyone have a better idea? I'm sending an example of how my single raw file appears
Increased a little more, its better now?
oh god
🦃Happy Thanksgiving yall!!!🦃🗡️🍖🍗🥧🍻🔭🪐✨
M o r e m e a n s M o r e

I think we must stop fellas, this jpg is getting out of control 
HOLY FOOKING SHID
We are opening the gates of hell right there
But rlly beautyful shapes of watever dis is xd
If you want to get this evolving, use Registax with linked wavelets and bump up all sliders to 100, save in bmp, open again and redo-it, you can find a lot of patterns by sligthy moving the sliders
increased sharpness and saturation as well
Bro the image wiggles when you scroll up and down lmaoo
There's like horizontal bars that form
your phone got a problem then
quick lil moon I took on my walk
damn what phone
S23 fan edition
s23 gang
nah samsung refers to real moon pictures and adds them to the pic
so in a way they are fake but trying to be realistic
yeee
nah i can't be bothered to talk to calculative people
better than apples results that looks something like this
minus the good zoom
lol
yeah
what about it
most phones use digital zoom
my good one is with digital zoom
this one is an app that trades quality for more zoom
the tradeoff is not a good one
this is with 3x optical and the rest is digital
the annoying thing is that my phone has crap focusing
like awful
I could zoom in a chunk more but it just doesn't focus
maybe they'll fix it in an update because this is a newer phone
wtf it that😂😂😂
my eyes hurt 😭😭😭😭
they are on fire
wtf is going on with y'all's phones 🤣🤣🤣
If you ever heard that it's fake
Probably fske news made up by apple fans cuz they are gealous
Pretty sharp now
Max sharpness reached, i will not go further as artifacts may appear
Space rick roll, omg 😄
Guys? I just created guide and repo about astro on smartphone. I hope you will like that 🙂
https://github.com/SoongVilda/Astrophotography
oh I see...😆😆😆
a bit of the milky way too
good transparency i guess
processing some old data i have
I have pro mode in my phone can I take photos of Milky Way with it?
should be able to, what's the max iso and exposure?
Iso 6400
And shutter speed 30sec
be careful with your ISO...high ISO means more noise...it's better to increase the shutter speed if you have a good tracking system...
as for the Milky way
try to achieve balance between those two
you don't want too high shutter speed... otherwise there will be noticeable star trailing that can be fixed using Photoshop but generally you want to avoid that
as for the ISO...try to go as low as possible, but not too much, otherwise you won't be able to make out a lot of stars
what I do with the ISO is go from the highest value to the lowest, until I found the maximum ISO value that there is no visible background distortion
But in comparissons wehre u hab different isos, stretched into the same brightness, u see different amounts of noise
@wind spoke @ebon lion I think its fair to say that in either case, DSLR or smartphone, lower the ISO the better. And in general, the longer exposure time you have the better. @indigo shell ISO 6400 is overkill on smartphone. I think a good rule here is start with ISO 800 for milky way and other DSO. You have 30 seconds exposure time on your smartphone which is good. Better than mine which only has 20 seconds. See my example of orion nebula at 5 mm focal length (I know the magnification is awfully high here) ISO 800 at 20 seconds exposure time on LG Velvet 5G smartphone. It is safe to say that I could have increased the ISO to 1000 or 1250 with the risk of more noise but perhaps better detail and color/illumination. Your camera sensor may be better at handling higher ISO with less noise, but I'm just sharing "general photography rules" here.
A little bit more sharpening
Also some deep sky images (ignore the pleades weird spike shapes, I have no idea how and why that happened)
impressive 👍
Thanks!
did you use a tracker for these?
Yeah, it's a Goto tracking az mount
All of those are single 30 sec exposure, expect the Andromeda, Andromeda is 11x30 seconds exposure
Single 30 sec exposure on Andromeda looks like this:
looks a lil out of focus
looks to me with the pleades it looks like you got a glare some how, and I will agree that is very odd
are you competing who is going to oversharpen his image the most 😂😂😂
It first started a week ago
extra contrast as well as more sharpening, seeing must've been good to see this much detail
Wat da faq xddd
Full moon from a few nights ago
Mooore
When I scroll on that image, horizontal lines appear 💀💀💀
shit really went down hill
Sharpen it more
Nah it has become the greatest masterpiece the world has ever seen
okok wow thx, what phone do you have and did you use the standard cam app?
I have realme 9, I used normal camera with pro mode, and stacked in deepskystacker on laptop and processed in light room on phone
My phone pics are kinda rubbish
Took this one pointing at Orion
The sky was pretty clear but it wasn't new moon unfortunately, also some clouds passing by
Redmi note 11
Also this one
oh dear 😂😂😂
wavelet sharpening is so delicous 😄 😄
dunno why samsung gives the moon an atmosphere
yes ik "fake detail" but it still looks cool
that poor moon image has been passed around 20 times lmao (22 if you count the rickroll)
still looks cool
A little comparison of the month of November
Same telescope I beleive. just in 2022 I would zoom in horribly and not do stuff right
do you guys know if this spot is Andromeda? Couldn't detect it on astronomy net , but I think it should be there
Man the compression..
i dont think so, i think
Yeah , the res is very bad , also too much light contamination
I know this is the Andromeda Constellation , you can see Cassiopeia at the right
It should be there , but it may as well be just an artifact
I suppose so, i see casiopeia so i think it is
I think this is Andromeda
Cuz you can see the fuzzy cloud near the faint dot
10,000th message in #1020657687291252797
I can see the dot. I really doubt it is unless you maybe can do more of an exposure. What phone did you use take this?
Taken with an iPhone 14, 4 x 30s stacked and processed in PixInsight. There was no tracking so some star trailing. It’s definitely worth taking in a raw format if the phone supports it, especially if you’re going to stack some subs.
does the ProRaw setting make the pictures raw format
Yes I believe so, the file contains the raw image data plus some metadata added by the phone. The raw data is compatible with the DNG file format.
Here’s what Apple have to say about it: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT211965
Apple Support
On iPhone 12 Pro and later Pro models with iOS 14.3 or later, you can take photos in Apple ProRAW. ProRAW gives you greater creative control when editing photos.
Definitely produces much better results than HEIF or JPEG
Managed to take these with my phone and telescope, not the greatest, as I was just holding the phone against the eyepiece
pretty cool
@fading bobcat I like the 2022 to 2023 improvement! Its amazing how far you can come in astrophotography in just one year. Im hoping to get another shot at jupiter before its too late in the year. Ive been doing some much collimation work in hopes to get the best imaging possible out of that Astro master. Im pretty sure I was clipping ever do slightly before. I got a cheshire collimation eyepeice and sight tube combo and although it is "easier" to get the collimation "right" there are other issues to resolve alignment that requires a collimation cap. Im becoming convinced that the tolerance stack up in celestron astromaster scope sucks lol
The astromaster (assuming it's the 130) is never good. I personally used a collimation laser (didn't realize other ways are much easier)
Honestly I love the progress, and wouldn't have done it without you guys that helped me out (yall know who you are). So whenever I post an image here, the credit goes among many people 
@fading bobcat collimation laser is actually the easiest if the secondary is properly placed. So the cheshire is best for that portion. I just use collimation cap for axis alignment. I was expecting that the cheshire sight tube combo would have replaced my collimation cap but no. I cant see the whole of the primary with cheshire eyepeice installed 🙄 My secondary might need slight position adjustment, but I'll see after another star test. If I get one nice round doughnut I'll leave it alone.
Collimation lasers need collimated themselves, which is counter intuitive to their purpose.
@fading bobcat truth. Which is why getting it pretty close with collimation cap is good enough. Star test to finish the job 😁
for some reason i get jupiter like this or like that, yall got any tipps? iphone 13pro, 90/900 refraktor
i got nightcap and astroshader
Turn down your ISO and exposure time
Seconding what @floral parcel said, I use about 50iso and 1/50th second exposure, record good videos (in .RAW) format and in focus, then put it into processing software, I suggest finding a tutorial on yt.
If you scroll up a bit, you'll see my comparison of me last year to this year, the only difference was I started learning the proper way to shoot planetary images
yup
oki thx, do you focus the scope with the phone already on or focus first and then put the phone on the scope?
my new pics from an phone (i think you can see the orion constellation and the pleaides)
damn thats compressed
ig
extremely
I thought it was discord failing to load it
With the phone on
Otherwise it'll be out of focus when you put your cam up to shoot
specs?
I’ve had those spikes, after wiping the camera lens on my phone with my finger. It does look like there’s some faint nebulosity visible.
finally got the mount working proper. this was a test run
17mins worth of 32s subs
10mins of darks
bias (unkown integration, i took them a year ago)
no flats
📱: moto g60
🔭 : heritage 130p
: azgti on alt-az mode
oh wow i hate discord compression
belive me it's less scuffed if you open on browser
This coma is very noticeable, such coma can only happen if there is a very bad main mirror.
But in general it looks like a trails
Might be the eyepiece too
There probably isn't THAT MUCH coma with an eyepiece
So yeah
thats really awesome
@magic abyss That comment was meant for you. Very very awesome. What FL EP used?
@fading bobcat only thing I changed was to the 6 mm EP. I shot last night too. Will try and get it developed today
@fading bobcat *6 mm EP + 2 x barlow (3 me FL)
all three
i need a flattener, the collimation is awful and the eyepiece is the stock that came with the scope
here's one sub so you can see how awful collimation is
the power of tracking

originally planned on doing so
but i saw carina was above the trees and it's my fav target
i need to fix the collimation tho
yes
i know where it is by sight
inmediatly
Jupiter and Io

Mother nature being a bit*h again 😒😂
@terse smelt barely but yes lol
Dont fix what already works 🤷♂️
i mean it kinda works... it can pick up andromeda with some light polution and some other big deep space objects...
but adjusting this way is hell
im not poor or something , but i want to get sure i'm made for this
i think i will buy a proper stand this monday i guess
Very understandable
@magic abyss yes, definitely with tracking. And polar alignment.
Can barely see it but it's Andromeda Galaxy
Pleiades
Both with my phone through a celestron travel 80 and a 32mm eyepiece
Question. I tested several phones and most of them have max exposure of ~0.1s one had 0.4 but no raw image support.
How do you do these 30s shots?
Or these are reseved for only selected phones?
could be coma
you'd have that problem with any phone viewing into an eyepiece (example below)
no, on the rightmost image the stars have tiny black outlines (image used is own example, effect more prevalent in vanism's image)
vs the raw, which has no such outline
might also be discord compression
Because all jpeg go through processing that include probably some denising and sharpenning. Something you don't have in raw image
I mean all camera image generation
This outline is basic sharpenning artifact
It depends on the phone a bit as there will be hardware limitations on the max exposure time.
In terms of RAW support most phones allow this but not all with the native camera software. So you may need a third party app to take an image in RAW
Hi all. I am 13 years old and i took this image Alpha Persei Cluster. Would like to know any corrections. Thank You.
This is my first Astro-Picture
Google pixel phones have an astrophotography feature where you can shoot up to a minute and 30 second esposures
yeah these are shot with the regular phone camera
cant shoot with anything else
my samsung s20 has a "night mode" which allows me to record up to 20s exposures - came standard with the camera
@lunar beacon yo artyom I have installed your amazing app but for some reason I can't find any deep sky objects 😮💨😮💨😮💨...I live in a bortle 9 area but I'm using a light pollution filter
shouldn't I be able to get something with a 2s-3s exposure ?
You can with stacking. You should start stacking. Unfortunatly most cameras I've seen so far don't allow single exposure more than 0.4s.
Make sure you go over the manual and check the android camera specific notes.
I assume you are talking about OpenLiveStacker
no I mean the Astro hopper app
but that thing with the camera also helps
but wait
pro shot app auto stacks images...I might try that
Ahhhh.... Good question. What are you trying to capture? What field of view? AstroHopper would get you close to the object but not always bullseye
dude I've gone nuts with the telescope...I would search the nearby sky for at least 2 minutes lol
🤣🤣🤣
I tried to convince myself that I've done something wrong
I have bought a velcro to mount my phone on my Heritage 130p
I've always aligned accurately
and when I tried with planets at 26x I could always find the planet in the FOV
which confirms that the app works correctly
I guess it has to be a bortle problem but I genuinely don't know
seeing you writing in the channel gave me the inspiration to contact you
If so camera is problem. What are you trying to capture? Which object? Start from bright open clusters to see if you even can get the signal.
I've tried Hercules
and some other clusters
Orion too
and Andromeda
what's going on with Discord ?
Try high contrast open clusters like Pleiades - very easy - you see visually very well as well so you can confirm what you see, capture.
hmmmm...I'll try
thx
I will use the pro cam that automatically stacks photos
it has an astrophotography mode
thx man
Send something we can see
just click it
No
OK Sir
Orion from last night
📋Exif:
📷 Xiaomi 12 + Motorized eq3 mount
⚙ 70x55s iso 400. 24mm F1.8
📌 Contryside of São Paulo, Brazil. Bortle 3 with high clouds
Alpha Persei Cluster
Xiaomi-MIUI 12 Version
iso 2500, 256 images stacked
Bortle 9, India, Chennai
I took it through 7x50 Horizon Binoculars
Not bad!
Horsehead with phone + guidescope
I probably won't even finish processing it. I did it just to test before doing it with the telescope.
setup:
Orion from the other day
What are each subs exposure?
astromaster 130 shouldnt be able to get this much detail 😆 Jupiter Europa Io and GRS 12/10/23
iPhone 15 pro
Sheeesh
samsung s21 fe
iphone 15 pro
forgot it was a tif file
i’m pretty sure i captured the spiral arms in m81 if someone can do a quick stretch that would be greatly appreciated
I me more interested in foreground than background what the hell is that spike with blue light

This is back in May.
B2/B1, 30 Second Single Exposure (With Adjustments) iPhone 13 Pro Max
damn why does it look like that ?
was it out of focus ??
Iphone makes astro shots oily
looks like a watercolor painting 💀

Can someone explain why dss doesn't stack my images? It's got a low star detection (I beleive I'm trailing at 1.3s)
But regardless it doesn't stack any more than 1 image
Maybe give siril a shot?
Here's a less edited .raw image
could be because it can’t figure what are stars
I totally get that. Any suggestions?
If it's trialing then I'd bump it down to 1 second. But 1.3 seems usable
I had this issue same time last year and we could never figure it out
I have the same problem, sometimes it does stack, others nope
I do not know tho
Ohhhhhhh
Well actually this is the original.
Before I like doing huge adjustments on the exposure 💀 that’s why it looks different lol
This is another one back in September.
B4, 30 second exposure (No adjustments) iPhone 11 Pro Max.
This time I didn’t adjusted anything, but it’s quite noisy if I zoom in.
Pleiades!
Why is Zelenskyy's face on Jesus' body
I know this is kinda off topic but I got a few random thoughts i wanna share. I have realised i've actually forgotten what Bortle 6 amd above is actually like. I lived in a town until I was 15 but I never really took much notice of the sky until we moved out of town.
My village is still affected by the towns light pollution, right on the transition of Bortle 5/4, but i live on the B5 side. I remember taking my dog for a walk for the first time in the village and going down one of the side streets with no street lighting and seeing stars i'd never seen before for the first time, but now I'm just kinda used to it.
I don't go into town much at night anymore and when i do it's normally just in the car where my view is directly affected by street lamp glare which just totally blacks out the sky regardless of light pollution. So it's been years since i've actually seen any other sky than a 5/high 4. And when i have been elsewhere it's been a full moon so not really and apples to apples comparison.
Anywhere here's a photo with beehive cluster
Braunschweig jaaa
shoot in raw
idk how to on a google phone either
but it’ll make your pictures look cleaner
search it up
Luckily i have an dslr now
make sure to shoot in raw with your dslr
You know the history behind Braunschweig ?
Not really i just live pretty close to it
like 20 mins away
damn
I want to live in Braunschweig one day...apart from having super rich geschichte it also is an amazing place to live
Yeah its a beautiful city
Atleast the old part
Ima retake it i think tonight
So... I strike again with my S23 Ultra 10x lens.
1.6s x 1100 frames at ISO 1600
Total integration time 29 minutes.
Bortle 5
you got the flame nebula, damn
Not bad
S23 Ultra 10x lens.
1.6s x 1100 frames at ISO 1600
Total integration time 29 minutes.
Bortle 5
I added dark frames right now (no flats)
@wind spoke you have a pixel 6a?
Or something else
Go to night setting
Set countdown to 10 seconds
And take the picture
Its for 4 minutes byw
Ill take some pictures of getting it later, my stepdad is the one with the pixel and he's at work sooo yeah
Ale thats still fine i think
Does it have a night mode?
If so, click the gear and make sure astrophotography mode is not disabled
Then, go back and set the countdown timer for 10 seconds for best results
And it should countdown from 4 minutes while taking the exposure
@wind spoke work?
K
Tag me if it does
Gso 2.5x it's nice and affordable
I think there's a very faint satellite by Cygnus but I'm not to sure.
My Orion Nebula taken with a Google Pixel 6a
are you sure
Blurxterminator's new AI 4 is much better at correcting out-of-focus eyepiece edges. It's a total gamechanger for astrophotography with cellphone
bro you are insane 🙌🙌
did you take this with your new setup or with the Toya 114??
I did it with the 114/900. It's still my current setup... I just made some upgrades to the equatorial mount
daaaaamn...you are insane bro🙌🙌🙌
and you captured everything with your phone right ?
a Xiaomi 12 ?
insane
use astroshader
works for any iphone
and it’s free
Oh thanks for the recommendation
it´s just deconvolution
but based on each star
The AI are not inventing data. It's just speeding up something that I could do manually with a simple deconvolution tool. But with AI, it can do each star with a different configuration while with normal deconvolution you apply the same configuration to the entire photo.
Got this questionable shot of the Andromeda Galaxy, you can even see little Messier 110. Messier 32 is technically visible, but it only appears as a misshapen star, with no visible glow around it to indicate its elliptical galaxy nature.
Took about 75 exposures, 2 seconds each.
Fixed some star trailing and slight chromatic aberration in post processing, among other things of course.
the dangers of phone astro (this is the phone)
Your phone isn't feeling very good
lol, just as you posted that i had deleted all of the raw files, 50gb of dng files (backed up to a 2tb hard drive)
Oh, so it's better now.
i can finally update the phone
I was hoping it would just be like that for all of eternity
lol
There it is the link to the shop where I bought it
Jupiter using a 6" dob, and my phone of course.
The red spot is so cool
DBE please
DBE?
Dynamic background extraction
Post process in Siril
Is Siril available for phones?
Ah ok
I use an app called Astro Shader to do the stacking for me, since I don't have a computer
Please get a computer to use an actual dedicated stacking program
Well, maybe someday
It will be faster with deepskystacker or siril
Astro Shader is working alright for me at the moment
Send the tiff
That image of Andromeda was like 500 exposures, each exposure was roughly half a second long. I took it using my phone of course, but attached to a hunting monocular, all set up on a very low quality tripod. No star tracking, but Astro Shader recognizes similarities in each exposure and lines them up accordingly while stacking.
I'm not sure if I have the TIFF but I can send the original stacked image before I did post processing
I don't think it'll format properly into discord but it's probably fine
I think that's it
This one was 75 two second exposures but it ended up basically the same as the 500x0.5 exposures, oddly enough
I just can't capture much more light using just my little monocular and a phone, probably
Okay ill.mess with it
single exposure from a few months ago
It’s alright do more exposures, and process the image, and it’ll look even better.
20x50 Binoculars and iPhone SE 2020
Scope?
6" gso dobsonian
Can anyone send wide space night sky
DJE
Wut
Dynamic background extraction
Rifle scope?
