#Planetary Imaging
1 messages Ā· Page 39 of 1
It has very large amount of CA
And 80mm maybe isn't suitable for doing planetary
But it has like 900mm focal length, so idk, maybe I can make a use for it?
Yeahhhh true
š
Theyāre
Letās just say
Thereās an emoji dedicated to them hahaha


Lmaooo
But I'm planning to do like DIY 114mm with 900mm telescope
Ohh
Yeah totally go for it
Idk man, idk what to choose, cam first or telescope first?
Otherwise id recommend getting a dob
Hmm
Whatās ur budget?
300 dollar max I can spend on
My current value of the money isn't that great... Everything is expensive in my country
Oof
Well
If you wanna practice using the softwares
You can get the cam first
But just donāt expect the best results
Umm which series of the planetary cam?
Otherwise id save for a 6ā dob maybe
My country doesn't sell that thing : (
I got the mars c II but you can get the cheaper one if thatās comfortable with u
Oh
How's the result? Is it great?
Umm...
Yeah itās really good for its price
Yeah I don't mind with that, as long I can practice with new setup and upgrading my skill and knowledge
Probably one of the best beginner astrocams out there
It's fine actually
Yup
Skywatcher doesnāt ship to india?
I'm currently live in Indonesia
Ohhh
Indonesia most people are very seldom for doing astrophotography/planetary, that's why, they don't sell like in official
Ohh i see
They need to import the telescope, and... That's expensive
Yeah
Oof
Hmm
You could get a tabletop dob if an actual dob is too expensive for you
Hmm idk, still way too expensive because of the shipping
Ohh dam
Try to look through the fb marketplace then
For used ones
I'll try I'll try
Fb sell a lot of things
Yep yep agree
Thanks anyway for the time
Appreciate it
No worries
Is it legit?
Not sure, you should ask one of the pulsar guys for help
Pulsar?
Sorry haha, theyāre the DIY people
They have yellow name tags
#šØ-do-it-yourself
Umm I don't have access
Select the channels & roles bar on the top of the server
And then select the DIY role
Thank youuu
I can join right now
No worriesš
Thatās the one I have, it comes with a cord that connects it to the camera and a usb port
Iāve heard the Uranus c is better
Idk though up to you
I feel Iāve done quite well with it
To be fair, the powerseeker refractors aren't actually terrible. They're not good per se, but they aren't god awful like the pseudo bird-jones reflectors in the same lineup are.
The mounts on the low end Celestron refractors are bad, but the optical quality is usable. Not good, but usable.
just gotta find something better to mount the optical tube on. The mount they come with is bad enough that with enough finagling quite literally anything could be better lmao
Powerseekers are just big monoculars, whatās bad is their mount, sucky usage of money and advertisement
It's a shame honestly. Celestron is a flagship company for some of the best telescopes out there, especially their SCT's. With such great products you'd expect them to have better quality control in their other stock.
If you didn't know about their flagship SCT lineup, and had only heard of their terrible pseudo bird-jones and less than optimal refractors, you'd think they were some low quality off-brand joke.
and mirrors
The 114/900 mirror is very nice price to performance. Not sure what that currency is, but I bought a similar one for around $20 USD.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002593170862.html
It cheap since it's a spherical mirror, but it's got a high focal ratio so the spherical aberration is very small if noticeable at all.
I don't have any images with it since I used it mostly for visual.
Have a look at this if you want to DIY a telescope with it: https://www.printables.com/model/224383-astronomical-telescope-hadley-an-easy-assembly-hig
Sadly aliexpress doesn't ship into my country
Alibaba does
I've got the mirror like around 25 USD dollar
This one is very cheap
If you are in India tejraj does sell a kit with the mirror, mirrorholders and focuser etc: https://www.tejraj.com/product/45-newtonian-telescope-making-optical-kit
Sadly I'm not at India haha
Extra challenge for build this Hadley DIY telescope
But thanks for the information
Appriciste it
Before you put everything together, you should get the primary mirror center spotted
It'll make collimating easier
I see
I have zero experience of operating reflector telescope
Is it easy to do it?
Sooo the higher I'm using the eyepiece, the precision of colimation is strict?
Np
Jupiter and Io about an hour ago
I did some research right now, parabolic mirror doesn't have like chromatic abertion
But if I use with my current set up like 900mm spehrical mirror and paired with 25mm, does it make my planetary image looks like a lot of bunch chromatic abertion?
Curious, I'm just asking
You won't have to worry about it with planetary imaging, since there is software to align the rgb colors. Same can be said for reg astrophotography, but I think it's probably harder and less effective
Also, you won't notice it visually
aaahhhhhhh
okay okayy lets gooo
im afraid that the CA will disturb my images
Also, 25mm at 900 focal length isn't enough to do planetary. You'll want a barlow lens for that, and probably a dslr or webcam
cuz my telescope like 80mm it has like alottt of CA
yesss yess, i already had it
but its quite cheap barlow lens
but ill invest it later
Won't matter too much, I started with a $20 one, and it didn't lower the quality of my planetary images
okayyy
ill need planetary cam for the next year
ill save the budget first
Yea. And since you're doing diy, you can buy your eyepieces meticulously
so the eyepiece wont fit or? what is it?
Any 1.25" eyepiece will fit with any 1.25" holder
It's the standard rn. Though 2" is growing more popular
I just mean you can get the right eyepieces you need, instead or getting kinda random ones
ohhhh i seee
i thought any eyepiece would not fit into my telescope
my bad my bad
ill stay with 1.25
Invest in a wide telescope first
Then camera
In my opinion
No
š„²
I mean not nasa but what do you need help with
Mainly scope or mount, i want to potentially upgrade them
What do you have now
Eq5 and 130pds
130mm i think?
Ahh
5.1 inchs
Hmm well based on what im selling rn, i could achieve a budget of 1k to 1.5k
Potentially more depends on situation
I would wait for a good deal on a nice sct or a dob over 12 inches or over
In planetary imaging
Yea
Can dobs track objects?
You would need to get a mount for one or get one that does track
Thatās why I have a sct
Do you have any good recommendations that can allow this?
C9.25 or C11 are the common and less expensive ones compared to the C14
I have the C11
You would need a heafty mount for it as they are heavy
Also is the uranus m good?
I know you need a filter wheel and all
But im probably getting a camera for christmas
Yeah thats the colour one i heard its very good too
Yea
Although is the uranus m good for resolution?
Thatās what I use though
I think mono is better because you get more detail
Might want to fact check that though
Geez lol
The 2025 Strawberry Moon šš
Named After Tne Stawberry Harvest This Time Of Year, The Stawberry Moon Doesnāt Actually Glow A Pinkish Color, It Does However Get A Deep Orange Near The Horizon After Sunset But As It Rises Glows Bright Whiteāļø
This Isnāt One Of My Best Images But I Might Have A Better One Coming Soon, Stay Tuned! ...
2081
You can kinda see it better here
It gets good views though
Used 16'' Dobsonian + EQ Platform, or if possible, mod it to goto
or even a 12''
theyre easier to goto
and are more often found used at that pricerange with a pre-done goto setup
Alright thanks aswell!
Is the 200pds good?
Yeah, its a pretty good scope, but the EQ5 will struggle with it
@lean island has this scope
Yeah so i might have to change the stand to fit the weight capacity
Oo
Also what stand would go with the 200pds?
Eq6 r pro?
Or is there any better options?
HEQ5 is bare minimum (even then its too complicated for some people)
Would rather go with a harmonic at that price
or a used NEQ6
One of these?
Heq5 works fine but is on the upper limit of what it can handle
@loud ledge as an owner of an EQ5 clone, that came with my 200mm F5 OTA, I would sooner recommend the EQR-6 Pro
Okayyy
EQ5 Clone is not the same as a HEQ5
Thatās fair. I know that the HEQ5 has more capacity than the standard EQ5. And I wonāt argue that the HEQ5 would be sufficient. I personally would feel better with the EQR6.
Thatās just me. š
The EQ6r is overkill
mainly because of its price
Iāve been told that the HEQ5 is sufficient, but the EQ6R is better overall.
Yes, of course its better but that doesnt change the fact that its overpriced and that a harmonic would do better for cheaper.
also, an HEQ5 is MORE than enough for planetary
DSO imaging is the main issue
I did use my 200 F5 tube for planetary even with just an onstepped eq5. Definetly get something bigger if you plan on doing DSO as well. You can do planetary without tracking to save money, tracking just makes it really easy.
OK. Thatās fair.
I guess I will adjust what Iām looking for. For my planetary purposes, I was looking for something that was a bit more future proof, which is why I was focusing on the EQ 6R. However, realistically, if I get what I want, itās going to be a Dobson and beyond the capabilities of the EQ6R anyway.
So is the 200pds scope and the NEQ6 a good combination?
VERY good.
š
Pretty cool
thanks
platos has to be my favorite crater
This is really awsome
@low oar please image patavious when itd at its best
Its my gav creator
Crater_
š
True that one is good
I prob have a pic of it somewhere just not a good one
Yea not good but itās there lol
Jupiter through my Telescope
nice, what telescope?
And what camera lol
Celestron Powerseeker 114EQ
Oh wow, quality is pretty decent for a Not Greatā¢ļø optical tube
Poco X3 Pro
Dang
thats pretty good for a powerseeker and phone
Powersucker and a phone? damn, well done
Fr
That's the most detail jup with phone I've ever see
What eyepiece do you use?
I don't believe that.
Probably a BS 9000 25mm
4mm Eyepiece
Dang
Kellner Eyepiece
What settings should I have for my images in planetary ap? I use sharp cap
i think i did something thats frowned upon
i took a second exposure to get the moons visible then brightened/removed areas that the moons are supposed to be in
second exposure in question:
separate exposure i meant
As in did you keep saturn normal but use the frames with the moons?
Because ngl thats understandable
well two of the moons had to be duplicated to their relative locations. i exposed them but they werent detailed
let me just draw it real quick cause idk how to explain it
Most of them do really suck, had the 114 but it was really good, had to hide the fact that it was a powersucker cause no one would believe my planetary images were from a powersucker
As long as you are transparent about it itās kinda okay. And you should realise that obviously your telescope did not actually detect the other two moons.
we all start somewhereš
Might get my 10ā goto up n running again
Should I strap my DSLR on my 10ā while itās tracking and track the comet for a better result
It may be stupid but I need to get a better result lol
yea go for it
Hello
Last night i viewed all four gas giants but im trying to see how this (overexposed) uranus aligns with stellarium
Two different versions of stellarium dont align either
@low oar what r u using to strap your camera to your scope
Gonna do the same but for my goto dob
Ima be fr shouldāve gone for the Schmidt instead of the dob lol
Should probably figure something out for that
Okay guys heres the solar system in my telescope so far
Jupiters moons are arranged in size order from left to right
C11
The one for my scope?
The one the C11 is on
I bought it with the c11
Yesir
I got it all from a guy in North Carolina
$1500 š®āšØ
honestly that's a really good deal for the whole thing
Definitely
Got the mount now just need to put it on the tube rings
Now time for rollout ramp and platform
Work? Yeah. Give you nightmares and crippling depression? Yes.
You have to understand that the 250 is a BIG fricken sail
What kind of nightmares lol
Like between the eq6i pro, the Neq6 and the eq6 r pro, which one works best with the 250pds
Nightmares of constant shaking, horrible guiding graphs and partial impossibility to image
Technically the EQ6r
For planetary and visual itās fine
But DSO imaging it becomes.. frustrating
If you can put up windshields there isnāt much issue but Iād advise against it
The mount could definitely hold up to a 300pds but you will need something to break wind like a dome or something
I just wanna do planetary
Then it should work but heavy winds will still be a huge pain
Yeah, some nights here it can be windy in ireland
Hello
Can someone explain how to remove these weird artifacts
My ap grid was 104s
Should i increase the ap grid size into one single box???
Yeah try that and see if it looks normal afterwards. It kinda looks like you were imaging with variable transparency.
I fixed the issue, it was ap boxes
@low oar yo alright so what would you recommend for sub length, I kept it for 10ā yesterday I could go longer
For Lemmon?
Yeah
has anyone done a peekaboo shot like this
so cold outside got a few minutes of jupiter
Nice
Seriously can't wait until it starts coming up at a more reasonable time lol
Send it once you're done processing :)
pipps doing its thing rn
exposures a little clipped but im pretty happy woth it
I donāt have field rotation so I was doing 15 and 20 second subs
Have this one, using Lyaphine's 20".
holy wow
i have never realized how weird jupiter looks without it streched at the equator
No field rotation with an equatorial? Weird, Iāll probably test it out
What?
You donāt get field rotation with both dec and ra tracking
I assume you mean the opposite. You don't get field rotation if you track in one axis, i.e RA.
wooo!!
thats how EQ mounts work
Whatās a good exposure + gain to use with a 8ā dob, ASI 585mc, 3x Barlow and on firecapture for both Jupiter and Saturn. I swear I capture them either too faint or too bright
10ms and set gain so histogram is around 70-80%.
Yep, it's kinda funny how we kinda tune out Jupiter's oblate shape (atleast I do) and it becomes something you don't really notice, until you see a depiction of Jupiter on a perfectly round sphere, and suddenly it looks so weird and unnatural.
a quick plato image
Fr
Sharpness
evil Jupiter (inverted Hubble image)
Halloween Jupiter
so colorful
Nice details
Bless me with good seeing please
Sick
U should try to image the moon and Saturn conjunction coming up
Is this a realistic result with a 10 inch scope
250p quattro uranus-c with 400x400 crop
And cropped more
3x barlow stacked with 2x
20 minutes of data
With ir 685
I did this simulation of a image
With good seeing
can I expect something like this?
Or 2-3 times blurrier
Btw quick question, how does the 250p quattro differ from the normal 250p??
250p quattro
Optimized for Astrophotography.
1000mm f4.
250p a dob.
1200mm (f4.7) its f5
PURELY FOR VISUAL
250PDS a newtonian.
Visual/astro ish newt.
1200mm f5.
Moon through my Telescope
K thanks!
theyre pretty far i just checked
Btw should i get a ADC
I wanna get good results with planetary
10 inch newt f4 with barlows
Looking forward shooting neptune
I am looking at the StellaLyra 1.25" ADC
Very attractive priceā¦.
The zwo is wayy more expensive
I need help
Yeah itās near the end of November
Hey, I'm building my new hadley diy telescope right now
It's about 40 percent done
I can't wait to get the result
I think the people here who get best results from planetary use an ADC, and would recommend its use to others. I've taken a single image with my own ADC. It's actually the best image of Saturn that I have from my 8".
So yes, ADC is recommended. I personally have a ZWO and the price at the time a couple of yrs ago was about $125 so I get what you're saying about cost. Others can speak about the StellaLyra brand better than I can.
Thank you man!
Do you think its a must with a IR filter 685nm?
"250p" isnt just a dob lol
just like how there is a 200p which is fitted with a dovetail, there is a 250p
It is tho
?
the 250p OTA is sold here regularly on used markets since it got replaced by the 250pds
iirc its still sold in other continents
250p is usually a quattro when u google search
I think u meant the 250pds same as the dob just a better focuser etc
Is the 250pds better than the quattro for planetary imaging?
my
guy
the 250p is a scope seperate from the 250pds which was sold at some point but now youll mostly find it on used markets in the blue style.
Well then idk
Hi guys. Can anyone stack this video?
No. The ADC is a set of prisms that, when set, align the different wavelengths of light so that the image itself isn't color-shifted. The IR pass filter blocks wavelengths other than IR. It would be better used with UV/IR cut filter.
Id definitely recommend getting an ADC
looked at saturn the day before yesterday
INSANEEELLLLY good seeing but Atmospheric Dispersion really kicked in hard
I imaged Saturn on a day when seeing was REALLY less than ideal. Went to stack it and there was a blue shadow. Would have been okay if I had used even UVIR cut.
ADC still has a beneficial effect when imaging in IRā¦
You understand that IR is not one single wavelength of light rightā¦
Yup. ADC effectiveness is a function of bandpass width more than anything. That includes longpass IR filters as well as UV/IR cuts used during colour imaging. It's recommended in any case other than narrowband imaging such as CH4.
I literally tested this and made a comparison with IR filters a few months ago.
With/without ADC
No cuz its not raw
What is an ADC? Is it Atmospheric Distortion Corrector?
Ah
What does it do?
Or well how does it work
Ah. Thanks:)
@somber stratus do you have any good exampels of what a differnace it makes?
Besides the saturn one
There are loads of examples on Google, and that site I linked
I don't have any more personally.
Ah okay
I consider it a necessity for OSC given the significant channel bleed.
yup, though this idea that its not beneficial outside of OSC is ill founded.
is the differnace bigger the bigger the scones or no?
Cuz I feel like it should be
With respect to losses in potential resolution, yes.
Dispersion is independent of aperture, but losing say 1 arcsec of resolution due to dispersion is much more damaging to a larger scope that can (nominally) resolve sub-arcsecond features for instance.
All my pre mono+ADC shots had a slight directional blur, especially in blue, that went away after inserting it.
Yeah thats what I figured.
Ive got a question Tom.
How good of a seeing would i need to possibly get a a spec of surface detail on ganemede?
With a 8" btw
Good enough seeing to get surface details on Ganymede.
Ye ofc but what would that be in arc/s?
If we say that jupiter is like 45° above horizon
In the respect of "I know that there's more than 685nm IR", yes. In the respect of "the spectrum of IR is allowed to pass" I would have thought that ADC is designed to align RGB wavelengths and IR narrows it down to one in particular so I wasn't aware that there may be a benefit.
Okay now seeing @somber stratus's comparison, wasn't aware that there is a benefit.
@livid sierra so I'll just acknowledge there's a lot about imaging and wavelength/spectrum that I really just do not understand and that's where my answer was from.
Altitude doesn't change the seeing scale you need to get ganymede details.
But like with average-ish seeing, you can get glimpses of the details.
u sure?
Heās sure yes.
I mean about the fact that u can get ganymeade details with average seeing
what adc do you guys recomand?
hate to say it but ZWO's is pretty good
What about omegon, itās longer so Iād have better sampling, but I donāt know anything about its optics, do you?
omegon rebrands some ZWO items so i doubt its any different here
The Adc looks way different, it has a different construction
havent heard much mentioned it in particular, but what i did hear was only good
New ZWO ADCs seem to have random prism orientation these days.
Huh thats weird. I have images that sharp that doesnt have detail om ganemeade.
Also im using an 8" sp seeing needs to be optimal
Beyond the "left-handed vs right-handed" issue that's known?
Yes. That was only in very early units from 2016. Mine was a left-handed unit until i reversed it a few months ago.
Someone I know with one needs to point their knobs down with an SCT.
I've heard about others that are whacky.
Every glimmer of hope of ZWO making a product worth its price gets diminished to shreds moments later 
Seeing the stars twinkle as a child 
Seeing the stars twinkle as a planetary imager

Getting impatient atp just give me good seeing š
yk whats worse
having a really small aperture but tom-level seeing
i already know once i get a big dob ill get horrible seeing
Good luckšš»šš»
the moon just a little less than a week ago
my videos for processing are 4k mp4s cause canon locked the ability to shoot raw video even if the camera is capable (90d)
@somber stratus how many times have you gotten APOD?
is there a way to stack a number of frames in a video of your choosing? like say theres 3000 frames and i only want to stack between 500 and 2000
this was trimmed down with avidemux but theres little parts that are blurry probably from some sort of compression
You can use Autostakkert to do this in the limit section. Also PIPP does it nicely.
Autostakkert 4
Can someone help me understand why I canāt send pictures in this forum
Protostars can't because someone was an AH with sharing stuff
Ok
me vs Hubble bubble
plato
Bay of rainbows
Compressed Hubble 
On my screen its not compressed
Look closer then.
Well thats how the original image was
That's the original, you can look it up on Wikimedia Commons.
Looks as sharp
YOO I HAVE 90D TOO
Twins
AH = A$$h0le
really wouldn't be surprised if it's raw too
the planetary images that are used as publication fall very short of what the data is capable of
the "professionals" make no attempt at sharpening or teasing more detail out of the image
Raw vs w/ subtle sharpening. Quite the difference and much closer to what you'd expect from a 2.4m space-based scope.
I'm downloading the raw data for this now.
actual hubble 
please dont use that for assh-le
š
use any other short way of saying but not that, people literally use it in reference of the mustache man
Iāll try to remember that in the future. Frankly, for my own reasons, I try to avoid the use of term entirely.
Well Hubbles slewing speed isnt fast anough for the moon making the moon an unideal target for Hubble.
Yea
single frame with 150-600mm
tried to do a wide shot composite with a 50mm but didnt come out as i wanted to
this isnt good
Right up there with using an air compressor or canned air.
What is up with the northern belt of Jupiter, keeps expanding then it shrinks bro I just want think bands šš
Well kind of sucks now I switched accounts and back to protostar if you remember me
Few things are different since I was last year
Doesnāt rly matter anyway Iāll probably get it back or not but Iāll be imaging with my goto 10ā for planetary only
Yeah it does. One person ruined it.
If you're imaging with a 10" Goto and don't get Mininerd back I'll be surprised.
Iām surprised, a singular person ruined it for everyone
Well I hope youāre doing well with your planetary
I'd be doing great if it weren't for clouds and me just being a little worn out from the week any time it clears up. Right now is a beautiful clear night, usually I'm all over it for a full moon image or planetary if I can find one. Tonight I thought of the effort to set up and take down and was all "Nah."
Suppose that works out, it got a little windy today and still is tonight so the seeing would probably not be favorable.
Got an image with 3 of the 4 Galileans this year though.
I still need to practice with Mars. And remember what I did (other than over saturate) to get my mineral moon. (Did I process one color? RGB? Mono?)
I can say the same for me, unfortunately Hawaiāi weather is bipolar, mountains making their own weather and the seeing is horrible, you get good seeing and good nights very rarely (not even once a month)
Any detail?
Unfortunately itās been a year I canāt remember anything other than the people I talked with 
Slight on Ganymede. So much that Rio can do being 8", not going to compete with Tom's larger aperture.
Awesome! Youāve passed the resolution Iāve ever gotten to (yet)
I just have to wait till I have one of those days
I'm into Solar imaging too a bit. Not using Rio for that though š
I had sun damage for my phone once from solar observing, I just wanted a quick pic but I was being stupid
I learned the hard way
But really I think itās only worth it if you have a LUNT or something similar
craters
White light filter, solar continuum filter, converted to RGB and fiddled with colors.
It'll do until I can get the Lunt. Which since that rates for about the cost of a car will be a decent amount of time unless I fall into a job that pays me in piles of money.
Very good wide field
Better than sun damage to eyes, though.
Guys what barlow magnification do I need if I want to shoot jupiter, saturn, and mars if all I got is a mak 150 and an apsc sensor
go into stellarium and add your telescope specs to see what it'll look like
which aps-c? For planetary the important thing is the pixel size as that determines how small of a detail each pixel sees at a certain focal length.
Max barlow power = 7 times pixel size in um divided by focal ratio
Probably would need a 2x barlow or something or not too much. Do note that you can vary the power of the barlow by decreasing or increasing the distance from the lens to the sensor.
You can ignore the total fov/sensor size as you will be using a small area of the sensor anyway: something like Jupiter will be probably around 250x250 pixels across with your setup.
a6400, which has 3.91 micro pixels
I'm still deciding between a 2x or a 2.5x or a 3x
When I was imaging with my Canon T7, pixel size 3.74µm, I was using a 5x
Or stacking two 2x
I think a 5x is too much for me. 5x barlow makes my scope F60
I've calculated it and the result are around 2.3x magnification max
Fair enough; 5x on my setup set my OTA to F25, which was fine for the DSLR.
should I get a 2.5x barlow or a 2x? My focal length is 1800mm
What's the aperture?
150mm
1800 x 2 = 3600 / 150 = F24;
1800 x 2.5 = 4500 / 150 = F30
Pixel size in µm x 7 = ideal F
3.91 x 7 = 27.37
Under is better, over will be fuzzy.
2x would be best based on that.
Hmm okay thanks for the help
Just got to get to altitude, above any inversion layer for good seeing
Exactly, I live about roughly 1000-1500ft above sea level so up country but it isnāt enough, as much as I would like the seeing up in Haleakala, the driving is a pain
Worth the painful drive imo, especially if you get yourself some more aperture. Lucky in some ways to be that close to a phenomenal site.
You gotta brighten the moon and feather the mask you made so it blends the glow
Key takeaway.
Sorry, I used wrong channel when pinging you
Anytime I derotate a shadow. This weird thing around it shows up. And Iāve tried every setting and canāt figure out how to fix it. I can mitigate it by not sharpening at all but then the photo isnāt as good as it could be?
This was my final image from that night. But I want to sharpen more.
This is what it looks like when I sharpen more
I would also like to do the same something like this, with Io half out. But same applies
Problem solved, thanks
mooning streak day 4
š
Titan
clean
nice, i can see the faintest bit of shadow rhea is casting too
Ah yeah was wondering if that was a shadow or what
big
big
i found something useful for imaging that shows shadows with a time slider (wish the map was higher resolution) https://ciechanow.ski/moon/
Mathematical crime to write things like that.
(the way you wrote the calculations)
I'm open to suggestion on a better way. š
You literaly wrote 1800 x 2 = 3600 /150. With that you can prove that 0 = infinity.
?
Just think about it
Our Moon In Full š
On November 4th into the 5th imaged the moon for about 3 hours, capturing incredible amounts of detail under outstanding atmospheric conditions šø
I captured 24,000 images and combined them all to complete this 115 Megapixel image of the full āBeaverā super moon of November 2025! š»
I took 48 individual panels...
Itās finished š
Full beaver super moon. Sounds like a very real event.
When will they stop giving random shit names to the full moon for no reason ?
0 = ā ?
With what you wrote yeah
š¤·āāļø time of year beavers are active
Blame the native Americans not me, I have nothing to do with beavers
Then why don't u call a jup taken at the same time a beaver jupiter
Brotha
Iām not a Native American born in the 1500s but if I had to guess it was because everyone could see the full moon and not a clear image of Jupiter
I'm just making jokes about y'all giving hilariously stupid names to the full moon for whatever reason
Aberration that is.
š loved this movie
it's one of my favorites
It is, transparency over here is probably the thing I have to worry the most. In the morning though itās pretty common that the air will be really stable, Iām just not an early riser
Iāll be taking out the 10ā tmrw morning though if stars are not blinking, anyone know how the northern band is doing? Iāve seen it has expanded then it decreased in size, I rly wanna see a lot of storms like 2018 jup
i lost my mooning streak
Pause
Guess what, itās your lucky day
Ken & I are imaging it now with the 24ā. Heās visiting and reminded me to do it
:D
š¤Æ
What do I need to do so i am able to send pictures in this forum
Now you need to prove your a nerd with good images
Recognition by people who can give you it
Really kind of doesnāt matter to me in my opinion
I recognized myself
Iām wondering if you could get the surface texture of it atp
YO
W
when u have the data. could u pls send it? i wanna process
It's not that great. I'm processing now. Seeing was a little rough
so in other words. above average to everyone else standards
btw did u get only ir or also color data?
also did ina during the full moon with horrid seeing š
color data
both
Colour is absolute garbage due to seeing. IR is far superior.
send both š
sharpened colour
(IR)RGB
why are there 2ir data?
the process is starting to look good š
its so hard to not overexpose anything tho
@somber stratus i tried. alr.
toms vs mine
what on earth happened to the colour
uh.. i couldnt get the color correct
idk what was wrong
but its kinda hard when the file is just green
Yeah that's raw output from an OSC cam. RGGB bayer matrix so you get twice the green signal.
ye
It's easy to correct for. You just set white point.
forgot to white blance š
prob why
here is just the ir data
it got really bright when i combined both files
but it was really good data tho
oversharpened imo
well its subjective ig
i like getting as much detials as possible
doesnt look natural tho
like here you have more contrast, but mine is actually finer in terms of detail. Edges are less "bloated".
yeah
your somehow looks higher resoultion tho
ig thats why
ye i always struggle with not oversharpening lunar data xd
feel like your is just "slightly" better š š
all jokes aside. is that good for an 8" with below average seeing?
It's pretty good if that was below average
Also resizing the image ~3x (aperture ratio) and visually comparing the detail level works nicely too, since resolution is prop. to aperture.
Yh
found it, my old attempt with my 8"
How.
Seeing
True

It ain't that hard
I had really bad seeing but luna was 60° above horizon
Dunno why people in this server got a cult for it

Its a cool taget lol
It all honestly started with astrobiscuits video
Yeah but y'all going too far with ts
Did u image it?
Yeah
Show
With small scopes it's a exciting target but once you get big ones you can do it no sweat
With 8" at native, IR720

From a mosaic done with a 4" frac, at 25°.
how does Richardson lucy deconv work for planetary, is it any good?
Bearly got it with an 4" is crazy
live view from the eyepiece of my 130pds during supermoon
How many elements?
Two, it's an achromatic.
There's a shadow in it if you pay attention.
Don't think much people realize its a depression not a mound or smth
really impressive for an achromat
even disregarding the equipment, really nice
Well, the scope being at f/13.2, it's all good with a green filter.
No aberrations. They're smaller than the diffraction limit.
meh, can be useful but rarely. Best to just use wavelets and/or stellar deconvolution
Little sharp
ye
Not really, seeing just too bad
dang
this is really bad seeing right?
ir btw
my average btw
I would just go back to sleep
@sharp ridge ts better right?
that was at 23 Degrees above horizon btw
deff exellent seeing
oker
woah, thats super impressive'
At the end of the day you just need big appature
You can get good seeing but the limit will always no matter what come down to the amount of light ur getting
Well yea yea
Holy shit man
I guessed it right 
In Hawaii we have a front that reached us as soon as it clears up should be able to get some good seeing
@somber stratus will u ever make a full lunar mosaic?
Got this with my 6ā in 2023
Nice we have an interesting range of aperture showcase here lmao
w
yeah
do you need a uv/ir cut to get ina? or just no filters at all
Itās just a surface detail on the moon anyone can shoot it, apature and seeing is kinda where it comes into play
mmm might try it next full moon
Doesnāt have to be full to see it
Itās in the middle of the moon roughly
ah ic
With such a small feature the UV/IR cut helps quite a bit.
Atmospheric dispersion and no UV/IR cut can definitely ruin your chances to actually resolve Ina.
dang i didnt know they pointed hubble at the moon, musted have friend the sensor a lil lol
hey i want to ask any idea how to capture moon surface with untracked?
point at moon
take photo
congratulations you have taken a photo of the moons surface
this was untracked
That's an anti image, it doesn't count.
what if umm i want to do stacking?
is it like impossible to do it? or it needs tracker to do stacking?
take a video. its bright and you want lots of subs for the best seeing so taking a video is the best way to do it since you get FPS
if youre using a dslr, run it through pipp and then autostakkert
does pipp can recognize what am i going to stack? since its out from the FOV
it has object detection parameters
alrightttt, i might need to tweak some settings
thanks anyway
appriciate it
U dont need one but I would recommend it for extra sharpness
Definitely I was just saying resolving it
moon
I achived this with 6" Callisto and Ganymede
Tom, when i try using my adc it always seems the two things you move to align the channels are best when i dont move them from the starting point, also how do you use it without releveling every few mins?
yeah a 3x
(Havent tried this data very much)
Hey quick question I have a meade lx90 8 inch and a ZWO asi462mc camera and my images are terrible. It is collimated according to a star test (admittedly on Saturn there were no good stars in the portion of sky I could get from where I was), I use PIPP, Autostakkert!4 and Wavesharp2.0, but debayering seems not not work particularly well and the images are kind of blurry-grainy? Any help on what the problem might be would be greatly appreciated, thanks
how do you even align lunar data?
Press rgb align
no i mean like how do i allign different stacks
yes
Photoshop
dang
Just align them on top of each other perfectly and then press the color overlay
i thought there was a less time consuming way
Can also use winjupos
Hey @somber stratus with a 10ā 4000mm F/17.5 what exposure works best? I keep histogram 70-80%? Also for the histogram am I targeting white light on the histogram or green? Or what?
I usually do 7ms but I feel like when I focus well at 4000mm itās still really dim
Uranus c
Like your live view on your most popular Jupiter post looks really bright compared to mine
And last question how do you focus at such a high focal length? I find it very hard
Settings come down to seeing most of the time
Thatās true
What about this, Kenny?
Thereās no works best
I usually run 7-10 depending how bright the planet is
On the big ones like Saturn and Jupiter obviously
I see, and which wavelength for histogram
?
Yea thatās rgb
White is the average right
Itās automatic
Iām asking what histogram range
Depends
Get your exposure then worry about gain
It depends rly
Thereās no perfect settings cuz thereās no perfect conditions
I see
If we were on the moon and had the same camera everyone would use the same settings
What histogram range do you shoot for?
I donāt look at that most of the time
But I guess high 70s to mid 80s
Ethan fina drop some better knowledge so listen to him
I hope lol
I'm mostly running the same 12ms exposure time on the bright planets and adjusting gain as needed.
Thank you, Rthan
Ethan
Again conditions
And as for the red blue and green lines on the histogram
Donāt look at those
Which one do you set at 80%
Maybe I donāt know how to read a histogram right then
Had my name right the first time.
Your using a color camera
10ms will do. And ~85% on the brightest of the three channels if running colour.
See the different lines
They are separate, is white the average?
There isn't one right exposure time. Just don't go crazy long or crazy short.
Just rgb
I know
Itās all 1 thing
Presumably itās luminance, so 85% on this is also fine.
Thank you
Just make sure youāre not overexposed. Canāt go that wrong otherwise
Thanks
Thank yall, is apologize for my confusion
Tom what do you website do you use for seeing conditions
Not sure about him but I use atmosphereic
his eyes
At night too
What skywatcher truss do you have?
Once weather clears up and hopefully seeing is steady Iāll try to do better than my last years run
Especially with my aperture I have a lot of potential
He likes windy.com
But Iāll let him answer when he comes on š
We have the same scope!
Awesome
this would cut my mouth if i bit into it
Indeed, love this part of the moon
Saturn and some pretty thin rings
Is sv305 pro good?
I've only had this option in my local store, I need to import if I want brand like zwo or player one, which it's cost me 30-50 percent more because of shipping and taxes
Its better than nothing, but I would buy from asi or zwo
or player one astronomy
are you from southeast asian countries by any chance?
Yess
Okayyy
Me myself actually want to grab the player one, but since yeah the taxes and shipping cost crazy I need to spend more money š so sad actually
indeed
are you located in Indonesia?
Yes
there is this store in malaysia called optical universe scientific instrument, never bought stuff from there but it looks legit. The prices are not too bad too
Woah
i got my telescope and other equipment from ous and its overall alright, never got broken stuff
(i like buying from that store because shipping is cheaper for me in malaysia compared to buying something from amazon that has ike x4 the shipping price here)
yeah the shipping rate is not that expensive
I had an SV105, wouldn't go with that brand. Granted that's their "bottom of the barrel" line compared to the 305 and still I'd recommend Player One or QHC
(btw optical universe scientific doesnt sell player one / qhy cameras only zwo and touptek cameras if youre planning to buy from there)
Thank you, but still I still need to pay the shipping and the taxes, which is expensive
Okayy thankss
Actually the price is the same as the player one mars c II, the one I picked which is same as sv305 pro
The problem yeah the shipping and taxes and I cannot bypass it rip
Making the import price like extra 60-100 dollar
it is definitely cheaper to buy from that store compared to buying directly tho
Okay
Which brand are you recommend it?
Like what zwo? For planetary?
I might be considering one if it's good
zwo is overpriced
ZWO
- Overpriced
- Other brands are more capable even on the same product (I've spoken with people who say the Player One Uranus-C is better than the ZWO ASI 585 even though same sensor, not sure the exact reasoning)
- ZWO uses open source software and closes it which is against usage agreement
- Their ASIAir is an up-jumped pi that can be outperformed by a minipc running an Intel 4-core Celeron CPU.
Which is to say, I won't say that they're a bad company; I can't say I'd recommend their product, either.
Player One
- Decent Price
- Decent product
- Would have purchased their Uranus-C if I wasn't impatient to get my planetary camera.
QHY
- Also Decent price
- Also decent product
- They're a scientific camera company
- I've seen this brand positively mentioned in this discord.
I love my Uranus c
Hey thanks for the insight, making me thinking twice to buy a product
Quality
ToupTek <= ZWO < Player-One < QHY
Pricing (ascending)
ToupTek <= Player-One < ZWO <= QHY
Support (personal knowledge, all besides ZWO are really good)
ZWO << QHY < ToupTek < Player-One
Price to Quality Ratio
ZWO < QHY <= Player-One < ToupTek
My current setup consists of an ASI585 (was too impatient to order/wait for the Uranus-C), a minipc or laptop (depending on what I'm trying to accomplish) and a Onstep that I'm still trying to learn on my StarView Pro EQ5 from Orion.
What happen to sv bony product?
Is it not recommended?
Oh my bad I'm trying to replying this message
So along with what Jolly said above for cameras, I'd recommend minipc over pi all 8 days of the week. I have a Beelink U59 minipc ... tbh wish I would have purchased one that's more powerful though it does the job pretty well when I limit to imaging.
Sorry
Id only recommend SVBony cameras if you have a SUUUUPPPPEEEERR tight budget
I see... That's some good setup
ive heard many good and many bad things about their cameras so theyre grey space
Soo device issue?
Okayy thankss
You dont really need a minipc at all
a toaster could run imaging
Heh, no worries. I think everyone prefers Player One or Touptek or QHY over svbony. I won't recommend them. Their SV105 camera can't be used with some software, and it kept crashing SharpCap for me. I've said that it's a bottom of the barrel product, and it's utter garbage that isn't worth a cent, let alone the $50 I paid for mine. Not sure how other svbony cameras fare. I do know that they do compressing on camera that prevents getting a good raw image for processing so honestly they're object non grata in my book.
any laptop he may have access to works
Dont use the SV105 as a point of reference please š
Fair. I'm just saying that I wouldn't recommend a pi product for imaging, I think they're a little bit more limited.
A potato could do imaging though. I have a Dell laptop that I started imaging on. I got the minipc because I want to be able to remotely image and I personally think it's easier to do that on a minipc than the laptop.
So I have a local store that sells sv 305 pro it sells at around 200 dollars
Beside from that I want to buy also the mars c II player one
It's 199 dollar at the store
When I checkout the total cost of shipping is extra 30 dollars
That doesn't include the taxes of country
Usually they added 30-50 percent of my current product if I wanted to import a produc from the other country
So I have to pay like 80-160 dollars extra
So I need to pay 400 dollars at the end
I'd stay away from the sv305, personally.
Maybe for some you guys it's small
But for my country it's really big tho...
I see...
I don't know paying extra 150-200 dollars makes it worth or no
Man I hate being live in here, everything is so expensive
I make no judgement on how the cost of things can be compared to what someone has in their pocket. I sold my house to get my first good telescope so I have no room to judge. š
Required budget for astrophotography: ā
Woahhh that's some dedicated hobby
That's insane, respect for youu
REALLLL
