#Full Metal Gantry
1 messages ยท Page 2 of 1
Sounds like a terrible idea
How do you plan to retain the belts on a post at higher tension
38mm is correct, but it will throw your belt 3mm from parallel
Not to mention how you would need to use a metal clamp to clamp the belt.
The center slot in the vz toolhead requires one to push the belt through the slot loop it around a piece of filament then return it back through the same slot, thus the belt sits a hair under half a belt thickness from the center of the slot.. wrapping it around a post that shares the same center as the slot will put the belt in the same position as stock.. but please don't assume that I am not making modifications to the standoff.. as for belt retention well it will still be some form teeth meshing against teeth being held fast.. but I haven't gotten that far yet..
how not? it should work fine
The hole is not center. Is slightly offset to accommodate for the belt. If you wrap it around an m3 standoff which is 5 or 6mm. The belt path will no longer be parallel.
right... well, the offset wont create too many artifacts right?
you cannot keep the triangle gap tight, might move weird
and you have to rely on a clamp 100% to hold the belts
also do not have any way to prevent the belts from walking up and down
... but please donot assume I am not making modifications to the standoff...
Damn that double negative lol
What you will find interesting is that the two pieces that retain the belts in the VZeroG toolhead are not mirror images of each other, but are actually the same part flipped 180 degrees on the Z axis.. you are right that they aren't perfectly centered but they aren't even perfectly inline with each other.. unless I got a lemon part from Mellow.. which is possible.. either way the modification I will make to the standoff is exactly to address both the issues you and Turtle have pointed out..
You could make little standoffs for the belts to rest on
Lets Go ๐
Yeah I got two identical pieces in mine.. ๐ญ
Which one is left and which one is right?
Top is left bottom is right.
Thay are the exact same pieces
U just rotate it differently
Well @inner cedar's parts are mirror images, mine weren't
Huh? How
If you look at his pics you will see that the slit is actually offset by a fraction of a mm
Oh right I newer noticed that
It really doesn't bother me as the modifications I am making to the standoff I am replacing it with should take care of that..
It's looking like the thicker part should face the gantry?
Are u gona make little tubes that slide onto the stanoff so the belts dont ride up or down and have the same spacing?
Yes
I like where you are going, but no lol
Why?
It will add weight
weight reduction is not beneficial if it reduces structural integrity or causes any other sort of unwanted movements
An extremely heavy but perfectly rigid system will perform better than an extremely lightweight but wobbly system
I am aware of this, it is the principle behind almost every machine in a machineshop.. our 3D printers are aluminium and plastic nonsense compared to anything truly rigid..
Different tasks uses different approaches and weight/rigidity/speed ratios
Whats structural integrity? XD
Stainless Steel Beta Frame when
Forklift to move it around when?
There is a guy on youtube that build a core xy out of steel box tubing...
But that won't be me lol
Milled from the single cube, with rails
I can tell ya with all the stainless I have in Merc2 it ain't gonna be light...
how much of a bad idea it is to use 3 0.1mm shims instead of a 0.3mm one?
Can you measure it? Even with a vernier?
I think it's fine, it's just a shim and I think it's mentioned as an option in the instructions
Maybe it's not, but I still think it would be ok.
Should be just fine
I mainly added them as optional for those who want to dial in the bearings and heights to have zero play
thinking of using only 0.1mm ones, a 100 pack should be enough to fill the bom requirements
Yeah, will be fine
I originally was going to use a single 0.1 under the toothed idler
But that wasn't enough to allow it to spin smoothly
you can even finetune the amount
@shut pewter a retaining compound that has a temp range up to 143c will be fine? Also donโt need more than medium strength?
I think that will be fine
@shut pewter Remember that endstop ๐
Hmmm, do I print it in black or red.....
Rainbow
Got my metal now I only need to buy the parts on AliExpress
Finish looks decent
How's the pin fit
If it's to tight, I use a spare pin as a reamer in a cordless drill
I tried actual reamers and they made the hole to loose. Even using a 4.9mm and 4.85mm reamer
I'm missing one part
what am I missing
no I'm missing a part
you or your project?
finish looks indeed very decent! and especially for free parts lol. Fitment looks oke. Pin fit is perfect. not too loose not too tight. dont have to drill. btw smart thinking using a spare dowel to increase the hole size
ohh what are you missing?
you have some bad luck these past days @lavish sinew
yep I know
front towers
ai that sucks. I have spare X joint parts not front tower parts
would have sent you otherwise
What to do. Print the printable parts of the front towers red, black or red with black? Have red spacers and rollers. And should I spray paint the metal parts or leave em as is. Finish is nice though
@tender token how do you have your x stop?
I like the front tower printed parts to be the opposite of the aluminum parts
And printed spacers the same color
so Red ๐
oeh thats nice. I ordered red spacers and rollers. so printed red would be a bit too much maybe
damn these 9mm belts and setup look next level man. makes me wonder if I made the right choice lol
It's only different spacers and xjoint plates to switch later
thats true. not that big of a change.
so bearings are the same? just a bit more apart
aha noted..
Upgrading from 6mm metal gantry to 9mm
oehh that would be nice.
like tinkering. haha.
@shut pewter How much tension needs to be set at with the full metal gantry 6mm belts?
no worries. thanks appreciate it
Here is a link to a good belt tension calculator tool, make a copy of it so you can edit all of the fields.
@tender token
thanks!!! will have a look!
Can anyone recommend an AliExpress store for the standoffs and spacers?
I have those in the readme
Thanks, another case of RTFM
I tried to cover as much as I could without doing a full build manual
I just didn't put the links in the bom since ali links do not link to the options needed
Plus they break/change fairly often
So fewer things to maintain by just including a section with links for sourcing parts
Yea I saw them I just always scrolled passed them lol
First batch came the finnish is soooo good
Whoops. That's a bit too much ๐คฃ
where you located
gonna cost more for me to send that for you to order ๐
yea lol
sand em down๐คฃ
haha wish it was that simple
ugh have to wait again
Looking nice though!
You can print temporary shims I guess
@shut pewter are you sure the shims tha supposed to be here are 5x7x0.3?
nahh i'll wait. printers are up and running
Fair enough
Powge idler may be different from gates. But .3 was perfect on the gates idler.
There is a reason I added 0.1mm shims as optional
So you can dial in the stacks
But also yeah I only modeled gates idlers for now
Aha I didn't notice that they are slightly different.
the standoffs are designed for gates idlers
which have a different height from powge ones
I have to do the standoffs for the powge idlers no matter, I can send them to you when I'm done
Yeah I missed that part. It's Allright I'll order gates idlers and shims. Have to have 5x7 anyways. Notices I have 5x10 even with 1 mm width that doesn't work. Idler will lock up
Appreciate that man
Thanks for clarifying.. Need to pay more attention ๐คฃ
do u know if the west 3d idlers are the same height as gates?
the poge ones work
the spacers just need to have a little different length
I cant do the new ones now, have to go and head to the clubhouse
bar needs to be manned
I can either do it after that or tomorrow (I have to do them soonish no matter what since my metal parts are already on the way XD)
btw, if you need the 26mm pins, I also have 100, we can check what shipping from germany to you would be
thanks but I ordered 25mm ones
Just adjust the shim stacks as needed
think i'll do that. unless I find a reliable source for Gates idlers on Ali. Have to order the shims anyway
these are the ones right? @shut pewter
Yup
Cool I'll order these. thanks my man
forgot the 5x10x3 alu spacers as well ๐คฃ sjees, this does not happen often
think i'll use some m5 washers. works too
Mine still has washers
seen the pic ๐ found some!
unfortunately not in red
I have red ones ready to install
where did you get those from
Amazon
oehh lemme check
Just search ali for m5 aluminum washer
They have 4mm for metric plates as well
Your want 4mm if your plates are 3mm thick
4mm ๐
you have the link ?
found it!
haha thanks my man!
aight should have everything now. Thanks for the help guys. got all the original parts, plus ordered the 0.1 shims as well just in case
now what to do with 4x 6mm Powge idlers ๐คญ
And gates are not required at all. Just what I used. And to add setups for other specs would have delayed the release
I understand. I would not do it any different
Figured shims could cover the rest for now
but do want to do it as per your design.
Gates is the tallest that I have had myself
true that. but not if you are stubborn like me haha
@tender token 3mm is for imperial plates and 4mm is for metric
yes that's right. I need metric
With 3mm on metric the bolt would just touch the bottom of the extrusion.
@frank obsidian ๐
Powge isn't gates profile
I know
but if they have worked well before why would you replace them?
Because they don't work well. Look at the above kek
what if someone has powge belts?
I guess powge idlers would be beneficial in this case
see?
Doesn't matter here majority use gates so don't use powge pulleys it's simple.
I use gates and am very happy with them
Modded the mounts in my black merc, though its the red merc that really needs this mod...
I need to figure out an easy way to include this mod in the files without breaking things. This involved changing the main sketch which doesnt allow changing both at the same time.
why are you trying to make jealous
xometry parts arrived, even without any finishing they seem to do some light sanding on the edges
I might actually order more from them in the future
Mine arrived as well
Some scratches on the surface
But not a big deal
Gonna airbrush them no matter what
If the fit and quality is good I will add them to the readme as a sourcing option
Quality seems to be good
There are tabs on there(which is to be expected if you only select bead blasting as post processing)
Other than that fine
Sendcutsend parts have tabs as well
I know, I mean it is to be expected, they have to fixate them somehow
I just used a file to remove the ones on the lower pieces for the tensioners since they were in the front and thus pushing the plate back relative to the printed piece
How far along are you with the modded printed parts for the stepper towers XD?
ah shoot
And think about how to save out the step files with all the options
any way you could send me the not cleaned up files XD
Would prefer to not tear down my printer twice XD
(well I have about 3 weeks till the frame is here)
I just hacked the files to get it done on my end. But it broke things
Just cut the current step files in cad
It's not that hard to do
we both know what channel this is going to.
Lol
I can do that
I just figured I'd ask first :)
I'm trying to do most of the work myself and not offloading it to other people
I mostly ask for opinions/tips
Only way I can improve my CAD game is by getting feedback :)
I also don't love the design I did for it, but just wanted to get it printed
I could have spent another hour to make mine pretty
I also have to figure out how to connect the third post to the frame
was thing of doing something like a blind joint with m3 screw and washers
cause I dont think a m5 will fit there, too tight with the belts from what the cad looks like right?
I wouldn't worry about it
I have the extrusion
why not use it
I dont think adding a m3 screw and some washers is gonna be that hard
Just have to do it before installing the extrusion
I wont countersink the holes anyways, not needed so it saves work and countersinking a hole is "easy" "uncountersinking" it is kind of hard XD
(the ones for the posts)
btw are you running 41 or 42mm pins since they are sticking out the top
hm
I should have gotten unthreaded m3 spacers and long screws
I know you're gonna tell me to not worry about it
but I prefer to do it overkill as long as it doesnt cost more money
(or cost is negligible)
I just did an M3 50mm and a t nut there. Replaced the standoff with a spacer.
that's the easiest solution
But that requires buying a spacer and a long screw XD
You could thread a long screw through the standoff if you have one.both parts are inexpensive
They can, thatโs why I used a spacer.
I have so many spacers and standoffs Iโll never use them all. Vendor kept sending me wrong color and sizes but they refunded me.
is that a 5 or 6mm od spacer?
didn't notice any tabs on my parts let me get some pictures
@shut pewter I wonder how your graphs compare now with full metal gantry vs fully printed one? Do you have examples please?
did you engrave that pattern on it?
yeah he has a laser
a fiber laser??
yea iirc
I've done them for a few members
might as well just build your own laser ๐ฆ
"ohhh nooo, i guess i have no other option"
xeometry can engrave IIRC
lol
I didn't have clean graphs before or after on my black merc. Y still has a second spike. But precursors shapers both look good and did improve with the metal gantry upgrade
I have not found the cause of the second spike yet
is this what the static resonance thing is for?
I have graph problems as well and we'll need someone to help troubleshoot them.
Started sourcing metal parts meanwhile...
probably a missing pulley
that x๐ ๐ ๐
I dont think itd work lol
Zeus would lose a pulley and still get IS graphs like that lmao
hey you got the joke
Finally got my parts that were relatively close in size. Only for them to be terribly cut. Going to scrap those too.
just an fyi for you all:
the stepper tower top and bottom plates have two holed which is 1mm smaller for the dowel pins.
Thats covered a little better in the old pdf for the metal stepper mounts
at some point I will do a updated guide like I did for the stepper mounts, with more details
@heady solar only the bottom plates, so the pins do not fall out
right. I just barelllyyy missed it
almost shipped mismatched parts to ppl
thanks to bigblue for noticing
Yeah, even SendCutSend missed this, fortunately, they have great customer service and resent the missed parts.
Been there too, but totally my fault. I had the wrong quantities set, so I got 4 4mm holed plates and two 5mm.. 3D printed a jig to hold the plate and my drill guide true and drilled out the 4mm holes to 5mm..
Should do 9mm also
I'm using the vz printhead so I'll stick with 6mm to use up what belts I have. I'll make the switch once a mod to fit 9mm belts comes for the aluminum vzprinthead
I'll swap the 6mm setup to my open frame and convert the enclosure to 9mm once the time comes.
Xeometry bead blasting vs no finnish

bruhhh this is sexy af
Whooop whoop!!!!!
Funny thing about the bead blasting:
I spray painted mine to test something and then removed it again with acetone
Now it's a lighter color
If anyone needs the remixed X endstop for LW Gantry and Metal X joints
Just changed the dimensions and recessed the screw
I posted one for the pro, didnt get to the plus yet.
I made a different one for the 400mm bed, but only a few have those. If they need it, Iโll send it.
I'll need it. ๐
Thinking about switching the 400 to the first merc, vz doesn't reach all the way to the front. XOL and SB reaches all of the bed
It's fine either way I guess
๐๐๐๐๐
Getting everything ready for assembly today, plates will be delivered today, and realised I ordered m3x10 standoffs instead of spacers....
Soooo friendly reminder to properly check BOM and your order list on Aliexpress ๐
What is the biggest benefit of doing the full metal gantry? ๐ค
Weight reduction and stiffer
wdym? it refuces an entire 5g!! so amazing!! ๐
srsly tho it is cool that it technically ways less than stock
That's per side, 10g total
For those chasing every gram, that's a solid savings. For most it doesn't matter.
Have to wait for the proper length bolts for the tension towers. But installed the x gantry joints now
Aren't the tensioners just the stock bolts?
no
Wait bolt as in screw?
Or bolt as in pin?
Oooh nah ๐ Came to the realisation today, while waiting for my xometry package, that I don't have the 20mm long m3's
thanks
The whole printer except the frame is getting redone... Including electronics
Shoot
why?
Today feels like christmas ๐ฅณ
Was having issues with my electronics, and switching to 48v.
Kraken motors, btt kraken board, uhp350-48 and uhp350-24
Where do you guys get your metal gantry parts and how much is the cost for it all?
Naisss... Going all out I see. So you'd be getting the 5160 plus as wel? ๐
Xometry outside the us, sendcutsend in the us.
Depends where you're from. I'm from Germany and got my parts from Xometry. Original price was ~120โฌ with bead blasting but they recently had a 100โฌ off coupon
Kraken board has integrated drivers, 2160. Everything we use from 5160 minus all the features we don't use for printers
im looking at ur github for the DXF files and im wondering if you would recommend 9mm or 6mm?
Depends on if the toolhead you want to run supports 9mm or not
that would make sense. i think xol does support 9mm but im just not sure what the benifit is and if its worth going bigger
Your packaging looks like one sent from ada lovelace street
Larger bearing with the live idler will hold up better under high belt tension
But you will need steppers with longer shafts that can also be setup for double shear to handle higher tension
so it will cost me more gotcha
prob better to just stick with 6mm then
already have the idlers for it
and steppers
The double shear bearing on the steppers is a good upgrade for 6 or 9mm.
But you can always do that later
though I might as well cross it off if im already gonna rebuild the gantry
is there a bom for 9mm or do i just need to do some digging for what i need
aha I did not know that. sweet
it was like 110 for me
@calm cosmos The lightweight rail is now a part of the record holding merc, good job, holding up amazingly 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UV6UaswLptI
Worlds fastest 2 motor (Non Tiny Printer) corexy printer on the Annex official Speed Benchy leaderboard! This is a fully CNC converted official Mercury One printer. This did start life as a stock Ender 5 Pro believe it or not! Only things lefts stock are the 24V PSU, front power switch, and the frame...... YES THE FRAME is still the original wit...
@broken venture at 3:20 - 3:43, why is it slowing down on that move on the front of the benchy?
It's fkin nuts though!!!
im going to make that printer obsolete ๐
U wish
well dont tempt me ๐
I'm not just putting respect on LHs name lmao
right. I didnt mean that srsly, sorry. dont get me wrong, lemurs contributions wont go unnoticed. hes made an impressive printer ๐
Im also working on a bed slinger, which was heavily inspired by the lh stinger. I do hope to surpass it one day tho
Ain't gonna lie, I posted this in the wrong channel XD
Im probably stupid asking this but what are these extra parts for?
is it only for motors with longer shafts?
Yes
u need at least 40mm shafts
Soon Iโm sure theyโll have made enough we donโt even need to mention it
โNo Finnishโ
Rob declaring war on Finland
๐
Did your plates come correct the first time?
Yeah
Well that gives me some hope
Snce there is no Finland he will be transferred to asylum
โฆ am I just too American to get this one, Iโm illiterate with world politics
Sorry thats an old meme about how Finland doesnt exists, it is just a conspiracy and here is only a sea where japan fish
Would the new Kraken V2 motors work with the shear support files? They now have 5mm X 37mm shafts.
Easy to check in cad, I'm at work though
V2???
Yes the next batch are noted as v2 and have a 37mm shaft and no pulley included
Where did they announce the V2 at?
Iโm assuming itโs their discord. They put it behind Patreon subscription.
they didnt really ๐คฃ
PREORDER!ย 5% savings on preorders. Motors are set to arrive early November.ย ย The high temp Kraken is finally here. Designed by Omranello from Devil Designs, these motors were made for applications where high torque is needed. This motor has an internal ATC Semitec 104GT-2 thermistor to keep a close eye on those moto
I've been watching the wrong site aparantly lol
Yeah the only reason I knew was because I was going to buy them off PeeDee's site and I saw V2.
Black thermistor wires now? Buy them just for the wiring XD
They havent updated the stats sheets tho. Still the 40mm shaft verisons
are there any downsides to a round shaft instead of d cut?
Round may be able to handle more force. I donโt think it will matter much if you add the bottom bearing.
From Left to Right, 5mm Round Shaft Double Shear, 5mm Round, 5mm D, 8mm Round Double Shear, 8mm round, 8mm D
28
Simulation results with 265N 20mm up on 25mm long shaft. Corresponds to 9mm GT3 Belt wrapped around a pulley
29
Differences from the calculation forumala are due to L/D being only 5, and end fixity differences
Damn wasn't tested double shear + d shaft smh
yeah deffinitely but I meant like if it made aligning the pulley harder or something
Aligning the pulley shouldn't be a problem with either type of shaft, the only problem I see would be the possibility of the pulley spinning on the shaft during high accelerations
My stepperonline motors aren't here yet but I'm probably going to grind the shafts down just to be sure
Nah itโs easier cause you can tighten it up anywhere
ah nice then
deffo gitting round shafts
More likely to slip though....
where do u work?
Machine shop lmfao. The engineering title is a scam.
Engineering is all about a scam of a piece of paper smh
Are you having a burgo moment again๐
when isnt he?
I've worked as a machinist for 27 years. More in production for the last 20. Piece work for the first 7. 15 before that as a mechanic in military. With engine repair shop.
I want a cert.
Ive been a full time dumbass for almost 17 years with a certification in stupidity and graduated from foolish college
What state do you live in?
ks
goofy question, but should I be using shrinkage compensation for the printed parts?
no, just adjust hole comp in slicer if needed for a good pin fit
@mitsubishimakes

Iโm going for my mechanical engineering degree currently, so I really hope itโs not a scam
One might hope it is a scam, if one is ready to scam other people
Fair enough I suppose. Iโm not sure what I plan on doing after I get my degree, Itโs just my best option considering my skills and interests and I have no better ideas
A degree is a very expensive piece of paper that tells employers you can follow directions. As long as you can keep your curiosity and creativity though the process, the ability to know which equation to look up is worth it. You may have to work somewhere boring that pays well for ten years to pay it off though.
Yeah thatโs what Iโm afraid of, I donโt want to be stuck somewhere lame for a while and waste time but Iโm hoping for the best for now and doing what I can to achieve it
Depends where you are in the world. Engineer is job title in some parts, in others it holds legitimate value once you get your p.eng.
Iโm in Florida so Iโm thinking Iโll maybe start with theme park engineering of some sort, does that sound like a good idea?
You can DM me or move to general so we donโt flood this channel with discussions of what is an engineer again ๐.
But anything thatโs gets your foot in the door with projects under your portfolio is a good idea imo. As long as your keep your degree broad in mechanical engineering, itโll keep your options open. Including working with roller coasters.
where can i buy this kit?
I bought it over xometry but you need to give them the drawings that you can find here https://github.com/TurtleCrawler/Mercury-One.1---Full-Metal-Gantry/tree/main .
No problem!
what does th 9mm gantry mean and 6mm?
ok, thank you bro, iss the aliexpress kit worth it, or should i self source the metal parts?
There is no Ali kit
Why is no one reading stuff XD
#important-updates message
@shut pewter
Dumb question:
Why do the spacers for the tension towers have a bigger od than the ones for the xy joints?
At this rate I just tell them to send it and dont come back complaining when shit doesnt work right ever
I made them separate and didn't cross check values
Actually I might partially enjoy hearing the B!#ing, moaning and potentially catastrophic FAILure
Sorry, I don't have time to read every note, I have printers to fix;)
Ok
Still, Ali kits are bad
So it's just a
Doesn't freaking matter
Does the size of the x-y joints spacers matter?
Otherwise I'm gonna adjust them to my washers๐ค
Off to scope creep town
any recomendations on print settings? or does it not matter as thyre not structural?
standard ZeroG print settings
kk
I see people crapping on spelling for the docs above. Are they still in development or did I just miss them in the repo?
I had several typos at first, most should be fixed now. I haven't had time lately to push more fixes though.
I guess I'm just dumb. I can't find the docs.
The readme files on the github
There are more readme files in the sub directories
As for a more in depth guide that will be awhile
Oh, thanks for your patience. I did not think to look down in the STL directories. I am so used to using gitยฑhub for just version control, that did not even occur to my. Thanks
I didn't want to have a mile long readme in the first page
So the first one is a general overview
Input shaper is showing 40K accel recommended on a 5 plus, just started tuning it.
Y is better than X oddly. hollow rail, lw gantry and zerogcnc
that doesnt sound right post graphs
Ugly input shapers are known to show high accel values
First peak is mount in Y looks like
Increase the accel per hz for X testing thougg
Try 170
Found a nasty rattle from one of the wire ties. going to fix that first
sounded like rattle snake on speed
Try 200. And just do the X
220 lmao
ok, thanks
What does increasing that do?
If my 5mm dowel pins are a little loose in the plates is there a way to shim it or hold it, or am I thinking about that too much and it doesnโt matter?
Use retaining compound loctite 641 I recommend
Increase the amount of shake. It's for more rigid setups
How do you know what the right hz is?
What is the belt free span length value that goes in the excel?
Or does anyone know what the recommended hz for the FMG on 5pro is?
Almost done... Awaiting the standoff for the towers.
@shut pewter I accidentaly ordered 2 6mm bottom stepper tower plates instead of 3mm would it be possible to drill out the 4mm holes to 5mm halfway for the dowel pins and use just 1 plate on the bottom?
Seems like itd work
I doubt I could do that while holding the tolerance I would want with just a drill press myself.
With a mil it's possible
Or if you use a good counter bore bit
Ill align it with a 4mm drill bit and then swap to 5mm
Whats that?
You can just use 150. It's just the span you want to tune the hz at.
Ah ok. Thanks
Assembly time !
Who did you get your plates through?
I used Aus Laser Cut - theyโre in west Footscray vic
Min order was 120 iirc but I got full set of 6mm and 9mm plates both the top and front mounts
That seems average or less than for price. I got a set for the 9mm cut out of 304 stainless. Was $3 more than aluminium so thought why not. Itโs a bit rough. Might hit up Aus laser cut tomorrow. Thank you.
Np
that is incredibly cheap dang
When I checked a laser cutter in Poland it was only 36 euro for everything minus the stepper towers.
It's finally alive!
The all silver and black setup looks clean
The colors are a little bit all over the place right now. The original build theme was black and green but now I have some spare black and red ABS-GF from my voron build that I'm using
Seems like my new Z2 preload X-rail needs some time to break in tho
ill be doing black standoffs with a black vz cnc + black lw gantry w silver plates and gray printed inserts
I have my silver gantry...... could go silver beta frame ๐
It looks nice, I'm doing the same thing. All silver with black accent
Did you compare your belts and fix any issues there first?
Colors Iโm using.
That's the belt graph, I'm not really sure how to read it
Looks like it needs a suit and tie XD
Classy
R.I.P. Ender 6, I got two full sets of Beta printer parts out of it before it's demise
Technically 3, I ditched the first set.
That's really good, don't mess with it
That's what I was thinking too, definitely a lot better than the printed motion system with 6mm belts
Nice
Now you gotta work on those bumps XD
the color i want my beta in
Damn, those are super clean
That's the cleanest iv ever seen!
not enough fo rhim lol
Nope
How do you even manage to get these graphs?
take off the tube.
wait they can't design for shit
I need a better strain relief that holds the tube too
Mine was a 3am drunk very dirty cad
The oh shit i need that thing part
@broken venture
I made this monstrosity. I have the beta frame and have an extra extrusion at the back so needed a way to mount the cpap hose through it. Uses some reusable velcro "zip ties" to hold everything together
That's a test print, so bad quality lol
Goes right there
now you have to connect your cpap through the extrusion
Between the two extrusions yes. But with the 3mm panel on the back behind the hydra upright it gets too narrow for the cpap hose to go through without squishing so I needed to make this, and have some decent support.
nonono, through the hole in the middle of extrusion! I know there is a hole somewhere ๐
Thatโs AUD too so USD would be about $70-$80
Now that Iโve got sets for the 9mm mod I guess Iโll have to force myself to make another one
Beta frame helps with that
You can get it any colour cheap just need to wait, feel like you are 4-5 weeks into the 11 week lead time
You know me, I want the best I can get
Canโt tempt you if you already have purchased
Iโll be putting my metal gantry stuff together this weekend
Yea 8mm 2504s
9mm gt3
Iโve got stainless rod that doesnโt need sanding down for pulleys or bearings or idlers, just need to cut it to size
And stainless plates
Thats hawt
except extra backers to ur frame for rigidity
Im allowed to cheat a little
Be happy I havent ordered any for the front yet XD
I also just swapped out the screws for rainbows for the hate
@frank obsidian since you asked about the airbrushed pieces
Airbrush didn't work out (most likely cause the nozzle was too small for the color I wanted to use)
But spray can is working exceptionally well
It's just matte unfortunately
Maybe I can get away with thinning the color more in the airbrush
But I don't think that's the solution either
we have made a cpap mount for the beta hydra enclosure
so you wont need the extra extrusion. would be a waste of bed space tbh
if you say so ๐
All I did was add that extra extrusion at the back. I'll put a panel on the back of the hydra upright, making a pocket in the back to accept the power supplies and cpap. Just going to mount the cpap turbo the same was the vzbot does
ah its in the back
Yesirrr
Why did you add that extrusion?
Huh?
in the middle it seems
I think that's just the cable arm
Hydra extrusions seems to be in place
I did this, less things to rattle.
?
Plastic on top of extrusion, more screws means more things to come loose and rattle.
Lots of vibration on the upper extrusion
Oh I thought you meant you invented a magical floating X gantry.
super lightweight xjoints
so finally able to do some tuning with the metal parts. Getting these weird Y axes shaper results, any thoughts? My max accel is really high but the graph is very spiky. (This is with the fans on max, hotend and part cooling)
Turn off ur fans.
printer will be printing with them on so I want a representative shaper profile to be generated.
Never had this issue before, with printed gantry
No
The fans don't actually have that much is result effect
That looks like noise from fans being on since electrical.
if thats the case then the X graph would have noise like that which it doesnt
Not really. Ur moving wires different ways both ways.
@frank obsidian another update on the painted pieces
Spray paint is working exceptionally well
(If you are better at painting than I am it might work even better but it's looking really good)
I just used generic spray paint based on synthetic resin (not acrylic) since it's more scratch resistant
Nice
Concerning tolerances:
Unpainted piece:
3.18mm
Painted piece
3.2mm
Did you use etch primer or does the paint have a primer in it?
Before full metal gantry
After full metal gantry
Still need to figure out my Y Axis, I feel like trying out normal profile again instead of the light weight gantry. But a very good improvement
Propably something w the y rails
could be anything related to the motion system really
the 125hz bump is prob cable/ umbilical mounting.
yeah not worried about the last little bump there. just trying to figure out the messy downfall of the second big spike
What has everyone been paying for a full set of laser cut parts from sendcutsend? I uploaded one file and got a crazy price.
90ish plus shipping usd
you need to adjust the settings
but ye theyre pricey
$90 is very reasonable.
for the full set? yeah
Wow, I priced out OSH cut and it was $138. $90 sounds a lot more doable.
make sure you select 3mm 7075 with no finish, processing, etc
Do you pick the 7000 series for strength? I wouldn't imagine it cheaper than 5000.
Sendcutsend is the best option in the us
To cut plates?
I have money for matching plates. Hint hint, wink wink
I did work out pricing
Just need to order parts
Haven't had time to sit down and make sure I have all the right stuff
I have been returning pop cans for printer stuff ๐
So I'm ready ๐
This plate going to be metal?
yes. 7075 is the preferred option for strength.
im using 6061 because i got it cut locally and thats what they had but 7075 is better
No plans for that, haven't seen a need with the thicker revised ones for the beta frame.
7075 is what I recommend from sendcutsend and i know it works since that is the only material I have used myself.
Just for a matching the rest of them. That's all
Suppose I could send them through my AMS. ๐
Wow, I don't think I am fully appreciating the forces on the mounts if the aluminum grade matters. I think I need to do some math. You guys are real hotroders.
sorry, i didnt mean to come off that way ๐
your printer is yours to build. just wanted to inform you ๐
Out of curiosity, has anybody tried to use this to blacken their gantry parts?
No, but if you try it, let me know how it works! If it works well I might try it too.
I have everything including the dye to anodize and dye my parts black when I get my full set. Guess we will find out how much work it is!
No worries, I'm shooting for size and temperature so I'm not too worried about massive acceleration. I'm just tying to learn whats important from the experienced people. Thanks.
are you going ultra high temp?
I don't have any plans to go over 100ยฐC chamber temp. My wallet is already crying. But most of the parts I've picked/bought are rated for <130ยฐC.
Longer Y extrusions for some added support in the rear. M3x50s and spacers ordered
I got my 2504AH(S8-55)s and pulleys in today. ๐
Oooh, I like that. Never felt great having the motor mounts hanging off the back.
You also ordered m3x50 and spacers for that so you can also secure the rear post?
Yeah
Give it a mounting point in the back
And technically the middle post too if I wanted
So I suppose I should really modify the printed parts to accommodate for a 6mm od spacer in the middle๐ค
They make 5mm
Oh
I read m5x50
I only found 6mm ones
So I figured modifying the printed part is not that big of a deal
I got both incase the rear ones wont work with the red 6mm OD ones
Yeah I wanted black
Someone said they should work
I can check in a bit for you
Theyre 1mm thicker than standoffs, so didnt know for sure
2 m3's should hold the towers down nicely, with those corner brackets holding the extrusions straight
No flex
Then wall mounts and we are gonna fly
Gr2 is Swiss cheese
Oh man, I got some bad news for you then XD
Iโd try it on a test piece, then give it a light scratch test after a day or 2.
I've actually got a couple of throwaway parts that I'm testing it on right now. I did one part that I didn't prep correctly but it still blackened part of it pretty well. I've got everything now to do a more thorough and proper job later today. Wish me luck.
Is it a dye? I thought it was a touch up paint.
It's actually a light blue chemical that reacts with the aluminum to blacken it. It's usually used on guns.
Doesn't that give a blueish black?
Cause afaik that's just cold blueing
Thatโs pretty cool. Hope it works good.
It's like bluing but, for aluminum, it's more of a matte black.
Not the same kind of chemical if I recall correctly
I'm gonna stick with spray paint
Already wasted money on Revell colors for airbrush only to realize the nozzle is too small๐
Iโm not use to the anodise and dye, at work the process we use produces the colour in the anodised surface so no dye after. But it is setup for 6.5m lengths of extrusions.
New pole #1246930108032225280 message
(Direct link for anyone not on the D3vil Discord: https://forms.gle/cNBCBu6LqHLajDMA7 )
I'll pass
Yup
Fair, it's probably a waste of money, but I'll try them anyway
Is he still sticking with his 37mm commitment?
read the link smy my head
Other Shaft Length*
*
*Note on Other Shaft Lengths: Please note that in order for us to offer an additional custom length, we will need to receive a minimum of 50 orders. If the minimum is not reached, we will not proceed with this custom length.
Problem is people want results before they buy so not gonna be a lot of backers
They said in the Discord that they'll try and have similar price to the normal Krakens, but it'll depend on how many orders they get
(Which is expensive to start with anyway)
so fucking expensive lmao
Ill keep my V1s for now
and ur ti backers ๐คฃ
Whats wrong with those??
But they work
Do they make steel ones?
not well.
You don't like the idea of trying to stiffen a crappy creality frame with hundreds of dollars in ti backers? Lol
๐คฃ
hector would needa be selling me some other services.
Just use some old rails
That's my plan๐
Well
Rails look good๐ค
I wanted steel ones, but hector discontinued them.
Teehee
why dont u just test it with rail?
compare the performance
if looks are that big of an issue just sparaypaint
Theres worse addictions
4040 frames...
Ill get a new frame eventually
Now if there was a extrusion kit to where I just need a screwdriver..... we could talk about it ๐
4040 beta merc would be crazy!
too bad @shut pewter is cringe
we like turtlecrawler. hes a nice guy
meh
How much money worth of parts do you have for your "ender 3" now?
I dont like turtlecrawler. turtlebasedler is better.
the amount I paid or the free shit got kek
my stealthtaz is technically worth like 2.5k ๐
nice try
is what I said wrong?
Is it even an ender 3 still?
yes if I use an extrusion for the top...
likely no ๐คฃ
That looks siiick
Me wants
i have better for splendacross.
Is that the valvanator?
thats only like 1.8k rn. without 6 more motors
ufonator. I have cad for both.
๐
(not from him direct)
thats a different printer design...
I have a beta chube.
Nice
Still using it for cheese?
id prob do custom hotend ad this point. But ill likly be doing chube longer if that becomes a thing
i never did it to my air.
this splendacross.
Whats the flow of chube rn?
idc.
it has more meltzone then anything else lmao
prime only exception
nbut its a noodle
Whats this๐
Top plate design, kinda like that other printerโฆ.
ITS NOT ANGEL
Hahahaha
NOTHINGS BASED OFF ANGEL lmao
Whats that
Nah no hanging steppers for z
hotend flow is hard to put hard numbers on, to many variables
interesting, 4 steppers for x 4 more on y? then triple z?
You need to be put in your place con your server ๐
yes.
belted z?
yee
Will you build it
im doing k3 inspired stuff (mathematicalpotato 1 rn)
he is to cheap to buy his own motors
they are so expensive....
U got me inspired now ima cad up a 4040 v0 size printer instead of the delta lol
yee.
and not stupid
Why
2020 lol
They designed like a toudler.
theres so much wrong with it from the core design philisophy.
I wanna reuse the old frame from the delta that my teacher gave me
Almost look like the RatRig amount of screws ๐
yea thas the funny part.
1000 screws
Progress on the delta so far
Burgo complains about how hard k3 is to work on with all its screws
Procedes to add 10 times as many screws to a ender 3 build.
were shitposting in turtles spot too much....
oooh very cool
did you figure out the constraints?
Where the mods at
the screws arent the part that makes it bad.
Gonna use the doron velta toolhead but I have to modifi it for cpap

No
that toolhead is so mid.
oof
my next project after these 2 is a delta
tell me about it ๐
I have very cursed ideas.
Thats whats holding me back rn
(all in 1 effector thats 1 slm piece basically)
No extrusion printer?
Tell me
Aww
nah welded steel fineeeee
Tell me your ideas and I might use them too
Plz
I want to reuse thw old frame
Burgo is having burgo moments again๐
Extrusions*
just do 4080
Maybe in the future. And 2060s at the bottom
coming after my heart.
I wanna do a 4040 v0 size printer lol
Propably 4040 mini merc
one thing RR did right 3030, on a 200mm it's damn nice
I'm too poor for that
=it was like 80usd for 2 of them cut...
Nice
I'm still poor for that+no time for that kind of work/design
the plate was the easiest part ๐คฃ
and I'm in yurop some shit here is stupid expensive
Can I get an invite link plzzz?
Oooo
๐คฃ idk if u want that.....
hes not wrong, I just removed it because that doesnt fit our server well ๐คฃ
turtle remember when U said my server was the only 1 I behaved in...
the tables have turned ๐คฃ
Lol
you did for awhile....
fair enough
I think you finally figured out it is also the only server you cannot be banned from
Why you keep posting pictures of angel?
and hijacking turtle thread
the general chat is nsfw tagged....
Its that type of server lmao.
also most of it is shitposts. until we have actuall questions lmao. I got smart people.
Ok than im not gonna open gc lol
Why
I have regrets reading general every day
๐คฃ
Ill join w the hope theres more pics of burgos interesting printer designs
sounds like the kind of server I'd enjoy some years ago
Ok here we go
Im scared
What are theese names lol
Not gonna open it
Im scared
oh links or pics is mainly just pictures of stuff.
best to nsfw it ๐คฃ
why is it a nsfw channel ๐ญ
Im scared of what you mean by stuff
Cuz burgo
Monika and me are like water and oil ๐คฃ
Monika is the one w the crazy ender?
Sub 2 min bechy?
yee
nah
monika is very much though someone though whos testing is a thing,.....
thats kiripatka. russian guy
Ah
its barely
monika was like 2.03mins or something i forget
closeeee
thern she made hotends.
because benchys are useless
Wdym
like that guys sub 2 min benchy is useless anythig but benchys.
monika is still learning and best to not take her advice.
(i am still learning too)
Aha
I meant this https://youtu.be/7lJmkTSoWLc?si=5i9o-1bEfAawabPN
hey guys sorry for dropping the camera but tomorrow I will be releasing an even faster benchy using a Bowden extruder. print settings: 1200mm/s 175k accel on x and 300k accel on y limited Cartesian .5mm line width .25mm layer height 2 walls and 3 tops and bottom. speed boat challenge legal. i hope u enjoyed (sorry if you saw this in your feed tw...
ohh right
aren't we all?
yee. but monika its hard to explain why I recommend again lmao.
too much lore ๐คฃ
What the actual flock?
the hotend alone is worth like 400 bucks. the motors are like 40 a piece. the laser cut parts I have spent 400 on (theres stuff that wasnt good). The frame 250 usd. continue continue
Oh I get it. But goddamn. You should etch the dragon on the cut parts
thres dickbutts on them.
Lemme see
This is awesome!
as usual Iโm dumb and I find this instruction confusing
should one countersink all the m3 holes of the bottom plate?
The top 4 per plate at the top of the plate. And the 4 bottom ones on the bottom
ahh, I thought about that, but it would be clearer if the image actually flipped to the other side
I thought the same thing but used the step file
yes, I was just saying for the sake of clarityโฆ Iโll not do anything before looking at it on a computer (I was planning from my phone)
I read the instructions right but thought I didnโt need to mark the holes cause Iโd be right. I drilled one side of both x joint and steppers on the wrong side.
yes, I think without the cad that shows which side need to be drilled, the image on GitHub are not enough info (saying this in the most constructive way, not criticism)
Being 2 different colours for top and bottom of the plates would help make it look different.
But wouldnโt of helped me lol mine was just plain old blind rushing in
if any consolation I had to reorder the bottom plates because I ordered in a rush, on 2mm thick plates ๐
Silly question. If the entire belt path has been made a bit lower on these, what toolhead do I use?
doesnt change the toolhead belt location
