#AWD motor mounts
1 messages · Page 2 of 1
You can make it pretty later lol but it really doesn’t look that bad
Better than anything I could do. I’m still entry level when it comes to cad lol
That’s what I wanna do for my first big cad project. AWD fro the enderxy
What do you use now?
fusion360
I tried onshape and rage quit before I could learn how to use it
Same I couldn’t figure it out
I tried shaper3d for a little bit too but I think fusion is just the go to
That and solid works
if the task requires it I will try to learn it
for now fusion has served me well
Same. I’d rather master one program before moving onto the next one
Especially with a bajillion different choices it gets overwhelming
fusion was simple enough to start, the rest of the advanced functions are in submenus
I want to learn to do better ducts
a friend wanted to do std6 on his voron 2.4 so I made a design and the ducts are the only thing missing
I also really like to have a digital twin as the corporate world calls it
having the printers in cad made it so much easier to iterate and check for issues
this toolhead might need decoration parts to look ok
ducts might help
cpap that is
There’s a couple of good YouTube videos on how to make ducts. I’ve watched through them a few times but haven’t tried any yet
I did watch some, but might need a rewatch
Yeah I defintley need a rewatch
yes
I just switched to fusion after using solidworks for ever
Also, RIP the focus 😦
Just catching up lol
I want to build a track car so bad
Gotta build a house first though
According to the wife
That is not in the same ballpark😂
Idk why🤣🤣
I race motorcycles a bunch, but its a super short window, so a car would be awesome to extend track season
Dyslexia strikes again
Happens to me SO often
That is one expensive hobby
I live 200km away from the city in which I studied
I can only boast about doing the trip in 2H instead of the 3H that google maps says it takes
With my shitbox I say that is kinda impressive
Hahahah that's awesome
My first car was a junkyard bound 95 Silverado. My dad said if I fixed it he would help pay for parts, so I get the shit box vibe. I always used to say yeah it's got a full undercoat. In rust.
Damn I wish I could get a project car
We just got a house and now I want a project car and more printers. She said house first 🤣🤣🤣
What’re you thinking of doing?
Honestly not sure! So many options. You got the classics like a gr86 or Miata. I really want to 2jz swap something though because why not and good lord that engine.....
Kept losing connection to beacon like 30 min into prints, check logs, EMI, check USB cable and its laying across the power supply inputs/outputs. Hmmm that might be why....
Std6 does not heat up
I think the orbitool is going in short protection because of the high load
yeah, otbitool is only capable of 5A not 7.5A that the std6 is asking for
so only 90W for me
the safety kicks in at 5.9A
Dang so you could just use one of the heaters
Or pull the heaters out and run them straight to the board?
To get full power
I guess you could use he0 and he1 on the board and combine them in the config or would you just put them both in he0
yes:(
Yeah I’m just gonna run all mine straight back.
Shouldn’t be too hard though you can just zip tie it to the usb and have it follow all the way back.
I really dont want to do that now
Could just hook up one heater and see how it does?
the toolhead was 1mm too low so I had to reprint some parts and now I am so tired
I have to extend the cables
I meant into the toolhead board
Like instead of putting both heaters just use the front heater
Just to test
sorry, yes, I just did that
No worries and hopefully it’ll work
it works, but only half the power
Yeah it’s got a lot to heat up
might limit to 70mm3
Still not bad until you decide you want to run the cable or just for a initial test print
dude
I have to use the heated bed mosfet for the std6
only that mosfet is capable to drive that much current
driving the std6 on a toolboard was ambitious
Holy crap 🤣 so the main board can’t either?
basically
Yeah it was lol but it works for the filament runout sensor and all that. I’m just using a btt smart one I’m gonna run on the side
Can you hook it up to the stock mosfet for the 5+ or do you need to buy another?
Cause wouldn’t it heat up at the same time as the bed lol
the heated bed mosfet of the kraken I meant
the mosfet from the e5+ can to 20A
I will do that after I rest for a bit
You just gotta switch between heater 1 and 2 really fast lol
I run my Goliath on the bed of the skr
the toolboard can handle the goliath
Could run two SSR
but this is almost twice the power
I tied them together
no need to run on 2 outputs
they cover the whole length
Ah
dualzone would be a portion of the length on one heater and the other portion of the other heater
Am I gonna have to hook the Goliath up to the bed input on the octopus pro or will the heater spot be fine?
Damn
yes
100w on 24V is 4.2A
so any output is fine
even the one on the toolhead
Okay cool
so..
75mm3
it can do 75mm3 continuous
120mm3 for 70mm of filament peak flow
while homing I rammed the bed into the hotend, I am glad I did not break the hotend while calibrating z, the whole toolhead and x axis twisted up
Now that's some flow
What temps?
damn
My cht volcano showed up, going to experiment with that
orbiter started skipping and grinding over 80
uhm what is your nozzle size because if you want higer flow you need a bigger nozzle
0.4 cht
70mm meltzone
I might get a bigger one
but for now its fine
The abstract art it produced
Also I am glad the fan duct did not crash into the z axis
This is how little space it had left
plus stock bed?
yes
Mines been printing exclusively gridfinity as of late lol
Yup my thoughts
its going to perform the same as the goliath
Yeah now i only need one more printer for that thing
they even recomend the MZE for it
then what is this?
I see some issues with it though, the screws for the heatblock do not have stops, so you cand skew the hotend if you tighten them unequal
with this in stock, trianglelab became the best shop for hotends
Dang I want one too lol
I’ll find a printer to put it on 🤣. Flight could use it for the IDEX build
I wonder how much itl be
I tried to reply to @golden hemlock
yes, this it great news
more competition is good
Yeah that's a lot cheaper than Goliath
And easy to fix. If the heater wires on Goliath break it’s another $100 to fix it 😅
Gridfinity?
Free as in "free up more space!"
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Super awesome open source organization system
looks like they have a watercooled version in their docs so maybe they're making a watercooled one too?
most likely
I love that to❤️
I meant to say that if the new goliath copy is crazy what about the std6 monster
Insane?
Ludicrous
Coming soon the Bigtreetech "Heinous war-crime"
And the Funssor "slightly unhinged"
what would that be?
It'd involve child labour somehow
they have products named after mythical beasts so..
My motors are out for delivery!
@lunar cedar got some of them 608 bearing motor mounts?
Asking for a friend
one sec
hb or kraken ones?
uh oh...
Oh also. About to start my build log and 12 plates of parts to print. Got the filament drying now 😎
Ugh I'm so annoyed
The spool got caught and put so much tension on the umbilical it pulled the stepper motor wires clean out
I tried to solder them back just to get it working for now but no luck
Looks like amazon to the rescue tomorrow morning lol
What printhead is that?
My own design based on eva2.4
excuse me what?!
Did you have to replace the motor. Damn that’s crazy
Yeah
which one did you replace it with? another 2504?
Yeah
Facts it would be so much better
Maybe from a manufacturing perspective? But even then it’s not that much harder to add a connector
I could just hot swap motors
I think I read something about temperature at one point
I think I'm just going to make adapters for my other motors so they have like 4in connectors
That’s a good idea
Fudge, wish I could buy those
You should get biger pulleys for these motors
30t?
I can make some mounts that can fit the 30t
Ordered
Whelp Amazon lost my 20t pulleys so guess 30 it is
They'll be here Friday
20t will be here Monday
Less resistance
Higher temp rating, probably the plastics in the conector are less temp resistant
That too
Resistance is the same on paper, I like the ones with ports too
In the spec sheet therey only write the cols resistance
The long shaft ones I have have them built in. The normal length ones have the connectors. I wish they all had the connectors lol
You can extract the rotor out of the long shaft ones and put it in the stator with the connector
Ooo I didn’t know that. Maybe one day but I’ll use them as is for now 😁
I didn't do it because I had to extend the wires anyway
Merry Christmas and happy holidays!!
Merry Christmas!
the front towers need more space
guys
@everyone
Love it!
Love it as well. It’s gonna come in handy as I’m building mine.
So the real question is. Do I setup my gt3 6mm belts so I can use my printer with the new motors today, go back to gt3 9mm with the older motors today. Or wait until Saturday night when the new pulleys get here
I have 8mm bore 6mm 20t pulleys, or 5mm bore 10mm 20t pulleys
Until Saturday
I dont understand
for awd motors or hybrid? i'd be curious how 6mm compares to 9 since that's what i'm going to be running
i say send it with the 8mm bore 6mm belts
i feel that i've been waiting for my printer to finish this batch of parts. then all the toolhead and motor mounts will be printed
i'll start building the rest of it as the other stuff prints
hey, another mod
this looks nice
This may be a dumb question, but can somebody explain double shear to me?
Its putting a bearing on the end of the motor shaft so it does not bend under the tension of the belt
It makes it so the shaft is supported on both sides, it helps the bearings and the motor work for longer
Like so
I got it now, thanks for the explanation
thanks!
@simple relic https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1321966892021448747 this is the chat for 8WD mod
badass
What would be the advantage? Would it be for GT3?
Question
Fast. Faster. Fastest.
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I've ran into a similar issue with the pulleys not fitting between the pillars
Any chance you plan on updating the Git w/ the new files that allow for pulley clearance?
I can only send you the files tomorrow
For 30T the toother idler pully just needs to move a bit, otherwise its really close 🙂
@young raptor
@daring hearth
Thank you!!
Hey, i think i saw discussion about them here so maybe this will help some: if anybody in the EU is interested in the S8-55 Kraken V2s contact Omranello on the D3vil Design Discord he will try to get you some.
Just asked him and he gave me the option to get them from meltbro or directly from LDO in China.
are the belts required to be longer then stock in this mod?
Yeah, it uses different belt paths and the stock ones won’t reach I believe.
anychance oyu know how much longer they are?
I did mine AWD from the start so I’m not sure on how much longer. I just used the 6 Meters from the kit but I have some left over
i have about 2 inchs on each belt
I’d probably just order 6M to be safe from fabreeko or somewhere.
i got 20 m lol 2 differeent types for like 14$
Nice!
Had no idea AWD delta was a thing but here it is lol, 3:08 benchy apparently
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=38jG4OhB2Gg
Pushing speed is fun, but so is pushing for new capabilities! I think toolchanging is the next big frontier, so I spent the last two months reworking RocketKossel's motion system from scratch and developing my fabrication skills to get this new design up and running.
All printed parts are PLA reinforced with carbon fiber inserts for incredible...
Delta printers are so cool. Also is that dual cpap?? 🤣
yes! and tool swapping
I have an enormous delta, predator and its fascinating to watch, but its harder still to wrap my head around an AWD delta
I'd love to build a detla. i've been eyeballing the doron velta but I don't have room for one
I don't either but it's there ahah, it shouldn't exist lol, biggest plus is the fixed bed
got a 24v 600w from the 5 plus, what should I get for the 48v?
Would be initially running 2504s hybrid and then maybe AWD if metal gantry AWD becomes the thing lol
I'd recommend something in the 200-600 range
Yeah don’t be like me and buy a 1200w random power supply 🤣. Although I will say so far it’s been working flawlessly and was about the same price as the others
For the shoulder screws, am I needing to have those custom ordered?
Can find m4 thread all day. The Ali link, that stores out for holiday, plus items unavailable.
stupid question, but is it possible to swap out ONLY the tension towers for the AWD?
Yes, that is the front only AWD, I documented the steps you need to take to install it, that is the mod that a youtuber has done as well
M3 thread with 5mm shaft is needed. I will look into alternative sources
Ali is the only place I found them
I mean on ali some alternative store
@lunar beacon
Here
The stack is installed upside down so the belt path is correct
Dont mind that it is a little diferent, the concept is the same
Soo is the back left supposed to connect to the front right?
Yes
You need to take apart the joint and flip them, then reprint the front parts,
Your setup is very clean, what board are you running?
Can you post the pic of the printer here?
I just saw you have 4 5160t plus's
Also can I see a pic of the electronics?
@lunar beacon
Also did the parts for awd fit ok? Too loose too tight?
Oh for the 30t I had to make an adjustment FYI
For the right stepper tower, I had to indent the mounting bolt because it was rubbing the pully.
@lunar beacon what bed plate is that?
Well that is something new
Good to know
New belts when?
Eventually haha
I am excited to see the gains with 30T
Or have you tested already?
Is the 2.45 min benchy with the 30T setup?
A cheapo 310x310
The fronts worked perfectly
After I mirrored them
I guess I'll put the other ones on and fix the run
Mirrored and not mirrored
Yes, keep me posted, I want to see it running
If you need help with the config tag me @daring hearth or @green helm
My right hybrid belts need adjustment it was scraping them and I'll probably need to replace them soon lol
Here's for the 250. If you give me your build plate size I can find a better one. I have one for my Merc I'm gonna put on after I finish my tuning. Or transfers the pattern to the bottom layer and works well for pla tpu and abs
You got it set up?
275x275
But I could do a smaller one because I can't use the whole plate
Er 300x300
I don't remember
Lol
Not right size but this one looks crazy
Shion.Kwoo Upgraded Smooth/Textured PEO+PEI Sheet 280x280mm Dual-Sides Spring Steel Build Plate Magnetic Flexible Heated Bed for Creality Ender 7,Qidi X-Plus 3 3D Printer.
Couple of options
I just have to connect the belts
Been working on getting parts for the AWD, if I were to go with the Honey Badger Classified motors, I would just need 4 8mm bore pulleys? For double shear 148-2rs bearings work?
I will have to make the parts for them, the hole is 13mm for the 695 bearings
Didn't even think about that
Been struggling to decide what motors, and then shoulder screws dilemma
is there instruction on how to assemble the awd mod?
i see i need to switch parts around im just not sure what
which is why i mirrored them lol
i use the 310x310 sheets
No, just pics and cad files, @green helm is working on some instructions
The x idlers are supposed to be flipped but I think since you mirrored the parts it should just be putting the towers on. Did you run the belts?
i was going to set it up correctly unless you guys wanted the data from it
i have not run the belts yet
klipper decided it was going to corrupt itself so i have to redo it later after work today
Ohhh okay yeah if you're doing it correctly then the x idlers need to be flipped so if it's on top it needs to go on the bottom and vise versa. You may need to print the back motor mounts too since I think they're different
Left one on top right one on bottom
i thought i needed to reprint stuff 😄
No reprint for the joints
Yes
I have the front printed. And I have the front mirrored printed
Ahh okay you won’t need to reprint the joints like @lunar cedar just take them apart and flip the toothed idlers like my pics
Which things?
This looks good?
I think those should work. Do you have a link? I couldn’t find them anywhere outside of Ali and would like to keep that link incase I wanna do the 50mm ones for 9mm belts
MISUMI is a leading supplier and manufacturer of configurable and fixed parts for automation, press die, injection mold, plastic mold, tool stamping, and more. Browse over 20 million high quality products - no minimum, free shipping available.
You'll just have to configure
Same day shipping too!
Aye that’s good. Should be good though! I’m not sure on the different tolerances but I think they should work
Thanks!
@green helm do i need to change the other wheel too on the side
or just what you have in your pictures?
One sec let me get a better picture
ty
Left side x
kk
right side x
what part isnt lining up?
the left bearing on the lower side
i might be wrong lol
i think i have the wrong spacers to be honest
im just wrong
its an illusion
no wait i think the bottom ones line up
they do
it was an illusion
i moved the axis to the back
i should have done that before i opened my mouth
lol
next question
do i use belts with wire or carbon straids 😛
Okay cool and carbon straids? What’s that 👀
If you want to get new belts you should get genuine gates belts from trianglelab, mellow or a few other good sources
didnt have the money
and i have 20m of each type of thos ebelts
so i have 60m of belt
im not buying new belt for a while lol
That is a lot of belt
ssure is
ima figure out what type i like the best then buy it from gates someday
lol
Nice
i cant wait to see what 4 super powers does
Vfas🤣
I wanna see the results! If you need help with the config at all let me know!
There we go, @green helm got to level 31!
i shouldnt. i just have to redo klipper lol
it corrupted itself last night
Ooof. I had to redo mine twice so I feel your pain
its been a few months soo its okay imo lol
yay lol. pulling my config. this is my error
the python environtment is corrupted lol
@green helm do you have any parts recommendations?
Hello! 😁. So @daring hearth and I are running goliaths. You can use the trianglelabs std6 like @lunar cedar or even the chc xl. Rapido uhf would work too or anything that’s uhf really to take advantage of the speed gained by AWD. I’d do at least dual 5015s (good ones like berserker or gsdtime fans) if you don’t want to go cpap. I guess it really depends on your end goals and how much you want to spend
Are you on a pro or plus?
@green helmare you free to help me with my config
i dont wanan struggle or guess anymore lol
Sure what’s up?
Okay! You may need to adjust the ! In front of the dir pins to make sure they move
i broke my eddy mount
Try stepper buzz command for each motor and make sure it’s turning in the right direction
Yeah two motors are fighting each other
Which way do you want it to home? Back right?
Okay so under stepper_x you see the second one that’s dir_pin?
Okay did it make it go the wrong way then?
Take the ! Off of all of them and which way does it go?
the dir pins
Yeah we can try that. You’ll just have to see which one moves if they’re turning the way you want them
Yeah for all x and y
kk remove the ! or buzz
Cause it looks like it’s going left then front so we may just need to flip them all
Try removing them all first
endstop is on the left
i have a cutter on the right
left back yes
i thought you asked where endstop location was before
lol
Okay then leave the ! For your x and remove it for y
kk
Sorry lol I thought I said back right 🤣
So it went in the right direction or no?
i have an ender 5 plus. also sorry i didnt understand much of your message. im not that advanced so could you please rephrase that to a noobie language
time to break out the super glue -.-
No worries! I have a plus too
Okay so there’s a couple of different brand hotends. Goliath, chc xl, and rapido uhf are all different models/brands that offer high flow. I’d probably recommend starting with the rapido since you’re newish.
Cpap is a type of cooling solution that uses a cpap blower to deliver air to cool the parts. It’s very loud so you’ll want to use 5015 fans for your part cooling. They can be purchased from west3d, or amazon, or anywhere you prefer. AliExpress is a good resource if you’re outside of United States
Hmmm okay if it’s stuck then it seems like 2 motors are fighting each other. Start with stepper buzz and go through each one. Start with x, then x1. Y, and y1 and make sure they’re moving in the direction you want it to home, if it’s not then add or remove the !
It’s a lot of trial and error. This may help but it’s mainly for 2 motor systems
Uhh let me check
STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper_x
oh i wont be able to tell. you'll have to look at the toolhead and see what direction it's moving
it doesnt move when i buzz them
lol
wellllllll
seems like 1 of the motors isnt spinning
that could be a problem lol
yup 😄
lol
y moved perfectly
x did not
its jumppy when it moves towards the endtop
hey @green helm i got into a bit or researching and i think im starting to understand now. out of curiosity can i see your printer setup?
Did you get the motor working?
Like a picture of it?
yes please. or a video of a benchy if thats not too much to ask
My speedboat vid won’t upload cause it’s too big but I’m about to start a print with my speed quality profile I’ll get a vid as it’s going
Also I am doing 8WD so I have 4 motors on hybrid as well
did i see correctly that youre using stock psu?
Does it home properly now?
Build Components:
Frame: Ender 5 OG
Gantry: FYSTEC Lightweight
Bed: Fabreeko 275mm
Hydra Mod
Electronics: BTT Kraken, BTT Pico, Pi 5, BTT SKSM
Power Supplies: LRS-600-48, LRS-350-24
Hotend: Goliath
Toolhead: VZ CNC
Extruder: HGX Lite
AWD Belts: 9mm GT3
Hybrid Belts: 6mm GT3
AWD Motors: Honeybadger/Turtlecrawlers "Classified" Open Beta Motors
Hy...
Yes for 24v but I’m running 48v too so I have 2 power supplies
Here's a speed boi
Flip one of the x dir pins not both and see if it helps
Granted mines had a few extra modifications
kk
“Few” 🤣🤣
Hahahah
Your build is so clean though
including the water cooler
It's generally recommened to avoid the super power 2804
If you’re not in a rush you can get the honey badger classifieds they’ll be 3A motors
I have 8 of them on the way
I mean if they dont have to be super powers i have plenty of motors
but i have ocd
lol
You could use 2504s if you have some. What all do you have?
I’m gonna do 4 and 4 more than likely or keep all 2504s on this and use the classifieds on another build
Can you send the printer config?
I am running classified AWD and 2504 for hybrid
nothing is classified with trump as president 😄
Not a benchy but here’s my speed quality profile printing some parts
oh thats fancy
Not sure why it’s making that funky noise but it should be fine 😅
I was about to say
haha
Your umbilical seems a bit long, it could be causing VFA with the swinging
Yeah certain movements sound fine but others sound like that and I’m like uhhhhhhhhhh please don’t break 😭
Ohhhh possibly I need to shorten the cpap tube a lot
I wonder if you made a tower with a bungie on it to help hold it up out of the way
to be honest i like your setup a lot more. yes its slower but i feel like id rather have that sitting by my side than @daring hearth superfast printer that would need some dedicated space 😄
I have some piano wire I could use 🤔
Honestly mines about the same as his for our speed quality profile
My speedboat just isn’t as fast
Yeah its really only for ballz to the wallz
Cause it’s big and chonky
Does y axis home first?
Mine is the same noise level when printing normal stuff as @green helm and like he said we use the same profiles
yes
Also can you check that the motors x and x1 are on the diagonal?
@daring hearth but im definitely stealing some eye candy ideas
With fans on. The first part fell off the bed so I had to exclude that object lmao
It's like a vette with a blower out the hood, sure it might be faster, but you never actaully really use it unless you are trying to break some shiz
I feel like that noise is a loose screw on the toolhead or something cause it just started
This is home all or just y?
His is turbo placed tastefully, 95% the same preformance
out of curiosity how come i dont see people running hydra mod?
Depends if you have a plus or not
Plus is half decent with the 4 posts and dual motors, pro had a canteliver plate that sucks
You got it to home?
Hydra is also a pretty significant price increase
yeah that is very true
yes i did
hmm
Send a vid
thanks guys! you gave me a lot to think about. also confused me a lot at the same time 😂 now i need to rethink what will be my next steps
Of course! If you have any questions feel free to ping me
i think ill do hydra just so i can get that out of the way and then do the AWD convertion
The plus doesn’t really need hydra from my experience with it unless you just want to get the new bed and swap all that.
At that point if I’m gonna do hydra on the plus I’m gonna do the new frame too
Is the config you sent the one you used now?
pretty sure
if not ill send it again
this is current
im pid tuning so im sure its going to change
Yes, then its wrong
You need to change the stepper x with y and x1 with y1, either the pins in the config or the plugs on the board
Also slow the homing speed for testing
Put 50 on homing speed
Until all is good
soo your saying to switch the plugs or pins/
Like it says in the pic
Pins in the printer config
motor1 x
motor2 x1
motor3 y
motor4y1
motor5z
motor6z1
motor7z2
motor8e
what will this do?
so the back left motor is supposted to be x or y
If now its x the it should be y
I think their endstop is on the left not right
Yes
Okay cool just making sure
Left is 0 right is max
Oh duh
Also @lunar beacon z tilt might not work because of this
its alot worse now
Since the x axis is basicaly bacwards the printer does the adjust backwards
Small steps, now you have the motors corect but bot the dir
Change for x and x1 the dir to !
And see if that fixes it
If not do the same for y and y1
i love how i didnt change anything and it worked -.-
current
i feel like my belts are 2 tight or something
But for x you still have the enstop at max
Oh, I did not see that
took me a min to realize
lol
can you see it jump when it moves
i think thats belt tension
yes
when it z tilts
when it moves along the y axis x jumps
soo when i move left
it moves to the back also
It’s going diagonal?
I wonder if one of the motors is trying to spin in the wrong direction. I had one of mine trying to go opposite and it caused that
ty
yes that worked
Of course
it locks up under any speed tho
What’s your run_current?
Hmm what's the max amp for those? Could try 1.2 but 1 should be fine. What PSU?
lrs-350-24
until i switch them to the bigger one
but i need a wire
and idk were to get it
The 350 should be good 🤔 but maybe not
i just dont wanna hurt it lol
im really good at breaking stuff
but im pretty sure i need to give them more power
lol
Same lol
Yeah I think so too also id comment out hold current
well i feel dumb
And I think I set interpolate to false
Ohhhhh yeah I leave it false with auto tune too
oh okay
its having issues now -.-
i feel like one of the motors is fighint one another
its in the top belt
which is bakc rioght motor and front left
Verify they’re spinning the right way and it’s not going against the other one
when i add or remove a !
it acts worse
soo i feel like something else is wrong
and i feel like its something with the top belt
i watch it jump alot aroud the back right motor
Hmmm possibly unless it’s the back right motor moving the wrong way
i think its a power issue
when i do it by hand its pretty hard
probably due to the belts i chose im thinking
back and right make slow clicks
forward and left make fast clicks
I think 350w should be enough. If you’re gonna get a new psu why not 48v 👀
The new psu is 48v
It's not outputting 48v tho
Features: 48V 10A 480W 1.Full load burn-in test 2.Great switching power supply for home appliances 3.Universal AC input/full range, cooling by automatic on/off cooling fan 4.A new style Switching Power Supply which can keep the voltage stability 5.LED Switching Power Supply, high quality material...
clearly
and when i said it doesnt output the power to 48v i ment its not working after i set it
i can set it to 48 or 24 and when i connect the drivers to the psu it only outputs 1.xx
also seems the printer belts dont kick when the printer is moving on a diagnal movement but doesnt when its straight
im not sure how to fix it
ive also changed to gates belts
so its not that
but there is no clicking or anything when it moves from the rear left to front right
idk if this helps
figured out my issue... when i put the idler pully onto the motor i counted the teeth wrong
i changed it and everything is working now
figured this could be useful information for the future incase someone else does it
Yes, also do the motor sync, I linked the vid in the github repo
@lunar beacon
Happy printing!
Yeah, non gates belts are a gamble
It was a plastic material
Can you send more pics and vids? I want to see it moving and printing
Yip will do when I get back to it, in at my sister house for the weekend watching her kids
sooo
before i send videos im redesigning my eddy mount
it will break off if i do any speed tests because it will hit the front left motor
yeah, you only get full coverage with a hidden probe like beacon or bdsensor and no filament cutter arm, the toolhead needs to be as narrow as possible
gonna put the eddy in the front
should be okay
is it going to make my life harder? yes
might be ok
it will clear everything
im worried about the heat getting trapped behind it
i figured out a way to run speed tests for ya 😄
so once i eat lunch im going to work on that
1200mms at 7000 acceleration
i gotta tighten the belts more
im working my way towards 1500mms now
Yeah, no, something in the settings is wrong
how?
That is not 1200 70k
your a 0 off my friend
You can do 1000 70k most likely
You are on 48v?
not yet
With 48v and 2A per motor you can do 70k or more
It skips?
i tried 400 at 10k before
and couldnt do it
i havent tensioned the belts correctly yet
or input shaper
and does it have instructions?
yup
Where do you get those shoulder screws. Every place i find them says no longer available
Can you order from misumi?
misumi msb5-40
For 6mm
I also recomend you do the full awd, the rear mounts are also stronger than stock
@simple relic
i got mine from aliexpress
From the link in the github repo?
Yeah
yes
I will have to find more stores that sell them
damn they have no 50mm ones either anymore
They are kind of rare
why not just shrink the hole down to 3mm?
5mm dhaft with M3 threar are less common
For diferent bearings?
The stepper tower would be weaker also
oh i gotchu would have to chagne all hardware too i guess
what does 9mm belts do
im thinking about upgrading lol
They are more ridgid, but need more tension, If i were to do it again, I would just get 6mm gt3 belt instead of 9mm gt3, also 6mm gt3 is better than 9mm gt2
Also for gt3 belts and you need double shear, that means new motors
over my head 😄
Less belt stretch, the system is more responsive, the belts might last longer
But again for 9mm belt or 6mm gt3 you need motors with longer shafts, so that you can do double shear, the unsuported motor shaft would be under too much stress from the added tension, and it will damage the motor
yeahh ill just stick with the 9mm
Yes
9mm? Or you meant you stick with 6?
I will have to go back to 6mm also, the toolchanger mod I am working on is based on the tapchanger and stealthchanger, and the suttles for these mods use 6mm belts
thanks man. lol then I saw that they're out everywhere. I used to have some 5mm spacers that were 50mm long. might not be quite as strong as that solution, but it has to be better than nothing
You cant order from misumi?
Misumi ships same day
Just found it. Is this it? If it is, im gonna order 51. Seems like a useful configuration https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110300249140/?CategorySpec=00000071979%3A%3A50&list=PageCategory&Tab=wysiwyg_area_0&curSearch={"field"%3A"%40search"%2C"seriesCode"%3A"110300249140"%2C"innerCode"%3A""%2C"sort"%3A1%2C"specSortFlag"%3A0%2C"allSpecFlag"%3A0%2C"page"%3A1%2C"pageSize"%3A"60"%2C"00000072058"%3A"mig00000001420449"%2C"jp000223598"%3A"mig00000000316111"%2C"jp000223605"%3A"mig00000000316125"%2C"00000071979"%3A"mig00000001420425"%2C"fixedInfo"%3A"innerCode%3AMDM00000000693|21"}
Shop Shoulder Screws - Tolerance e9 from MISUMI (Drawing/Specifications). MISUMI USA has all of your Strippers, Reamers & Shoulder Screws needs covered, with over 3.8M high quality products and 80 sextillion configurable parts available with fast shipping and low pricing.
this is msb5-50 not msb5-40
Shop Shoulder Screws - Tolerance e9 from MISUMI (Part Numbers). MISUMI USA has all of your Strippers, Reamers & Shoulder Screws needs covered, with over 3.8M high quality products and 80 sextillion configurable parts available with fast shipping and low pricing.
for 6mm belts you need MSB5-40
and for 9mm belts you need MSB5-50
@simple relic
Ty sir! Im putting 9mm belts on it
Nice
for the 9mm belt, do you just put additional spacers between the bearings?
More bearings
695 bearings
Cool, but oh damn, assembled in Aus is $60, triple the price of the BTT one
What motors do you run?
Ldo-42sth48-2504ac-s46
For 9mm you can get s46 or s55
Contribute to Stanciu-Andrei/PrinterMods development by creating an account on GitHub.
I moved the mods here, it should be easier to maintain and manage.
hey guys! ive got a question regarding cooling the stepper motors:
i see people using heatsinks for cooling, but since im gonna be throwing my printer inside an enclosure tent, would i get better results if i used water cooling?
Water cooling is always going to be a superior cooling solution, but you might get away with slaping some heatsinks on and lowering the run current a smidge, if anything you can put some fans on top of the steppers
Fans + Heatsinks would be my first choice
Why did I find this, now I had to order parts to do the front motors 🤣
You won’t be disappointed!
At least I already have the motors 🤷
Trying to design metal fronts personally. Love the idea, got everything else as well
Nice
I ordered 8mm shaft 2504s for my build, can you show do plates to suit laser cutting as I’ve already cut my full metal gantry already
I will have to design them first, the curent version is only for printed parts
Ok cool, like I said I’ve already had the parts laser cutting done for the all metal gantry
I'd love to cut parts for AWD too
But Il print the back AWD mounts in PC and see if I can space them in such a way on the metal mounts to line up
Ok
id love to cut parts but im unsure how to make tool paths
i even have a milo in my basement
Hey guys, has wnybody tried installing a bigger print bed with the awd mod? Atm im using the standard ender 5 plus bed but im wondering if i can stick a 400mm bed with hydra in the stock frame
My usecase is that id like to print some airsoft/paintball/car dashboart parts without having to slice them in multiple pieces
I think AWD will be fine but you couldn’t do hybrid since AWD is all on top above the frame. Can’t say 100% though since I don’t have the 400mm bed or hydra on my plus
I can look into it, but from what I remember you cant use the front corners corners of the bed with the 400mm bed
@buoyant pike
Thanks for letting me know! Do you reckon i can fit in 377 or 380mm?
The problem that im seeing is that even with a 350mm bed i cant use the whole 350mm of it, so in reality i always end up with at least 10mm less
The stock ender 5 plus bed is 377 x 377 and I have no issues hitting the entire bed on mine. I’m not running hydra though
wait, is it? ill have to measure it when i get a moment but if it is i feel like an idiot. 🤦♂️ apologies i might have been overthinking this
I’m pretty sure it is! I know the pei plate I used is 377 x 377.
I’m not sure why it’s advertised as 350 x 350 x 400
No worries! I tend to overthink everything so I can relate lol
370x377
no problem
ive just measured it and it is indeed 370 x 377. what in the goddam f 🤦 ive just ordered the linear rails. ill keep you guys posted
btw @green helm thanks for your tips on the cpap cooling setup. im still looking into it. i need to figure out how to incorporate it in my setup. i have a soft enclosure which sits right next to me. i think i have an idea about how im gonna extract fumes out but whats concerning me is how am i going to have a cpap running without turning me deaf 😄
this is what my setup looks like atm and im intending to keep the enclosed printer right next to me while im working from home. so ill be spending at least 8 hours a day right next to it
Of course! I have the soft enclosure too and mine sits beside me. When you use 30% cpap it’s not crazy loud which is fine for most pla stuff. I sometimes do 40-50% for faster printing (30-40k accel) and it’s noisy but not crazy
My cpap is mounted in the back on the top rail
Usually when I work from home and have a print going it can be a little loud but with 30% fan it’s not bad. I normally do 40-50 which could be too much cooking lol
Soon ™️
hey guys, has anybody tried running these with the 4wd? are these any good?
They are not that great. Had one before on my 5+but im back to stock 2020. When you go fast rigidity is more important then weight.
thanks! i was about to buy one, you saved me quite a headache
Has anyone configured this to work with 8mm shafted motors, specifically the Honey Badger Classifieds that are going to be shipping out soon 🥳
Yeah @daring hearth is running them with classifieds and I may be swapping mine in when they get here
@versed glade Honeybagers for AWD and 2504 for hybrid
Build Components:
Frame: Ender 5 OG
Gantry: FYSTEC Lightweight
Bed: Fabreeko 275mm
Hydra Mod
Electronics: BTT Kraken, BTT Pico, Pi 5, BTT SKSM
Power Supplies: LRS-600-48, LRS-350-24
Hotend: Goliath
Toolhead: VZ CNC
Extruder: HGX Lite
AWD Belts: 9mm GT3
Hybrid Belts: 6mm GT3
AWD Motors: Honeybadger/Turtlecrawlers "Classified" Open Beta Motors
Hy...
Are the files on the GitHub for 8mm?
You have the nebula frame?