#M1.1/EVA 3/Dual-Z/Custom enclosure
1 messages · Page 3 of 1
nope, I’m Italian
Out of curiosity, what region?
Piedmont
@feral prawn can’t make a reaction to a reaction 😂
yes
sorry couldn't resist
Had to ask. I love geography and European history.
after all america has no history 🤣
Eh, comparatively, yeah
In Italy I live at 500m on the sea, just on the mountains feet. here in Denmark the higest place is the bridge to Sweden touching 120m or so 🤣
Dang, that's a dramatic difference.
Denmark is fkin flat
Texas is dramatic. We've got a dash of everything.
I was going to say The Netherlands is flat, but it's not. It's a bowl.
I gues if there wasn’t Netherlands to beat us we would be the Netherlands… or we will be if the see get a notch higher than now
Netherlands with a tsunami just vanishes under water
New Orleans has more to worry about than Netherlands. At least the Dutch are planning for that. We're just twiddling our thumbs. Ditto in New York harbor!
Venice?
venice will become vanish
Same kinda head-in-sand approach, yes. Although is there even anything Venice can do?
Except drain the water?
not really and IIRC they are skinking not just water rising
Ohhh yeah
the did a engineering masterpiece, hearing the project ads, but I am not sure how they implemented it… yeah sinking plus they have water rising. bad combo
I saw somewhere that they were adding barriers to avoid waves
but then salt water + any metal doesn't work
and the barriers were supposed to move down so ships can go through
If I order my rails and Daylight on a Matchstick from Fabreeko, it'll be 110 with free shipping. If I order them from West3D, it's $105 with shipping.
The only difference is West3D has all of the parts now, but no 330mm rails, only 300mm. Fabreeko is out of stock on the Disco/Daylight sticks completely.
well 330 rails are worth it
Iffff I plan on upgrading this bed.
(not for long I hope)
I just really wanna get this second build done, I guess. I'm impatient.
might just get new extrusions as well and sell the OG ender
I'd buy the frame, but...
Atlantic?
that pond is in the way, yes
a small pond
a pool, really
shipping it inside PT will already be a problem
yeah, anything heavy is always a pain to ship
ordering extrusions from Misumi is a huuuuge cost sink.
shipping starts at $15 and goes up from them
indeed, too heavy and ship becomes the only way
sloooooooow
I might get them from RatRig
national shipping for me
That's a good option to have
thinking on keeping dimensions but swapping as much as possible to 2040
aka top and bottom
since I also have the drill press I can make accurate holes for anything I need, just get a tap set
That would save a ton
RR asks for 1e for each tapped extrusion
and that's just the ends
more might be even worse
Eek, yeah
need to estimate cost
Crap belt came off carriage durning print ......spaghetti
Serious? Slipped or snapped?!?
@tiny bramble left side slipped out of carriage during g a print ..spaghetti. this time I used extra blue loctite
Is this your Z axis? I saw in Vengeful's thread that you're belted Z.
No must have been some confusion. It was the y belt on the ender 5 pro no big deal.
The as-yet-unnamed air filter project has some basic docs now: https://jon-harper.github.io/air_filter/
Documentation for Clockmaker Filter.
Going to keep working on this before posting it to the community mods channel
Eh. Went ahead and ordered the rails and a roll of filament to get free shipping.
I'll do the day light on a stick later
@cedar depot Docs for you (and anyone else interested). https://jon-harper.github.io/air_filter/
It has a name now.
Documentation for the Still Unnamed Air Filter Thing
Thanks
Done fiddling with the air filter today. I think I might tackle CANbus next. Sighhhhhh...
@tiny bramble you know, that's actually a good name
my printers are down
SUAFT is now in #1007998760967737364
So it's not the CAN. The logs specifically mention it's loss of connection to the MCU.
I moved the USB connection to another port on the Pi. Next is trying a different cable.
Tensioners are still jacked. I think I know why, and it's an incredibly stupid mistake (if I'm right).
Okay. I'm going to rebuild my model around the new STEP files. Swap out my jobbed up ones for the real thing. Then redesign the tensioners and rear walls with some stuff I have in mind.
With the filter designed, that just leaves the door switches, lights, and panels.
question on beacon
klipper keeps telling me I need a control_pin for it ..but i have removed the bltouch info
man the beacon is just not working for me so I must be doing soemthing wrong. X and Y keep homeing to back right corner. Even though I have z safe home set for the middle of the bed
Sorry man, I don't have one yet to help you. 😦
@tiny bramble it's all good. I'll delete the config and start over
Rails are about two hours away by car. They made it from Florida in less than 24 hours. BY GROUND. I mean, awesome, but damn, that truck driver had to have been going 85 through much of the Deep South.
if only those rails could talk
I mean, they are, but they derail constantly. For historical, stupid reasons, transit by semi rules except for truly bulk shipping.
hopefully they'll be very quiet. 😉
You could be right, though. I don't live near a railway anymore to look at the cars.
Will mess with beacon tonight
Good luck dude. Sorry you're having a run of trouble.
It's all good it's about the tinkering and learning curve
New tensioner design coming.
The tensioner capsule is now symmetrical. Mounts with two screws, although I need to move them forward. The cover is largely cosmetic and allows the tensioner to be printed flat.
Nice
It's my way of killing time until FedEx gets here with my new rails. 🤣
Oh shit. Those Vengefuls?
Yes
His CAD is always so polished.
I printed them 3 4 days ago before the printer went down
They look good
Thanks
Now I just need to get the outer part printed
Beacon homes x/y but not z
Trying to figure out why
Any guess I have would be completely baseless, lol
Also still need the z tilt
Cr touch took a crap ...bed will not level. Stays in red. Doesn't matter if I compress springs flat
So this design sucked. The easier solution was fixing the existing tensioner, so I did that instead. Should be able to install it without removing the belts, too. 😄
Be ready in six hours.
I’ve installed the 1.1.5 without removing the belt… it was fun 😂
WUUUUT
the worst were the stepper towers, just because I’m dumb and messed up the belt path a couple times, but it wasn’t that bad, the new tensioner were very easy to install with the belt on before the shaft/flange. it was definitely longer than remove the belt and install it, but I didn’t want to deal with the belt clamps
you're insane
I know 😅, but the advantage of doing as I did is that zi could change each of the 6 piece on its own… in case I didn’t have time to put on the others. undoing the belt meant leaving parts around for the next day, in case I couldn’t put all on in 1 go, cats/kids would have made a mess
there are things called boxes
you know? made of cardboard, plastic etc where you can store stuff 😁
damn
the trick is to have more boxes hlthan cats
I have 2 cats and about 109747473949 boxes
hehe… but I also have the printer squatted in a place where I wasn’t supposed to occupy for that long… my wife subtly (not really ) points it out every now and than (every day)
My cat points out if I have too much stuff on the desk so she can't jump off my printer enclosure. Somehow the enclosure became a platform.
I feel like mine will become a platform too
speaking of platform, I'll be installing the new table this weekend
Oh nice!
Ol' One Leg the Table.
I was tempted to make it legless
bolted to the wall with supporting brackets?
but then wife said "its easy to make it legoless just never put legos on top"
I made the new support legs for my enclosure cabinet 1mm to low and they move… I was thinking that’s an opportunity to fill the missing with some dampening material
two boards along 2 sides of the wall (corner)
pocket holes from those boards to the top
speaking of which need to get them from the garage
if it fails me I'll add more brackets
(aka print custom ones)
I have rhe 1.1.5 printed but not installed
Printed trident legs for mine with tpu Printed feet
i forgot to slow down retraction the last time I used TPU. That went poorly.
Started out GREAT
how did it end
Well. I finally got the filament out of the extruder and it had formed a knot inside the filament path to the hotend.
There was a LOT of TPU crammed in there.
a pain to cleanup
TPU varies a lot from company to company, too.
So what works for one brand won't always for another.
ok time to mess with the beacon
Can't react to that reaction, @potent stone, but lol.
yea ...deep slope
at least I have it level now but just low
the probe is pretty fast too
I couldn’t resist
the slope ski...yea
Glad you got the beacon working, Mike.
what’s you z setup? 5+? dual z with independent motors?
dual/indepedent
yea i have ender 5 pro/ender 5 plus/voron 2.4r2
and elegoo saturn 2
for which i dont use anymore
nice dev 0.225mm
getting closer
Annnnny time FedEx feels like showing up...
usps much better then fedex
Yeah, FedEx is not the reliable delivery operation it used to be. I go with UPS more now.
oh yea
OTOH, this package is a day early, and seemed to magically appear overnight from Florida.
fabreeko ?
Yep
yea i order from them alot
They didn't get the matchsticks in, but I got those coming from West3D
matchsticks "?
don’t get me started with FedEx here 🤬
fedex gave my brand new router away to another person ....glad they brought it over to me
Ruh roh!
I get that one. Made a nice neighbor friend at a similar-looking house with a similar-sounding street name about a block away.
It's almost like all the houses around here look alike and have similar sounding street names...
Yeah. Suburbia is everywhere.
where you from I see USA flag
Dallas-Fort Worth
Dear heavens, I'm so sorry. 😉
why is that
lol, Houston gets ragged on by much of Texas. Take your pick. Traffic, crime, weather, sports teams...
Oh nice. Cooler weather, for sure.
yea but boring too
lol, I've heard that
you ever go by gasmonkley garage ?
Those dudes work in the Industrial District of Dallas. 1) Getting there is hard and 2) it's not the safest place to go. I've been maybe twice to that area.
But OMG, once was to pick up the panels I had done for my enclosure. So awesome.
I'm looking at that map, dude. That's incredible.
too high in the center
tiny tiny bit
FedEx came. Dude did not look like he was having a nice day.
last time we use FedEx, I've see the FedEx Van coming in, I went out to get the package, seen the van going away, meanwhile, receiving the notification that there was no one home, so they'd take the package to the warehouse (and they don't do a second try here, you need to go and get it from them)
Now they just leave the packages, but they used to do that. UPS was the worst about it when I was a kid.
at least the guy went to the house, last issue I had was with DHL, he didn't even come here, he just dropped them off at pickup point and said nobody was home... 2 construction guys outside, me and wife at home, checked camera footage at the time the tracking said nobody was here, of course no van to be found.
man I hate that, especially when it's where you don't have walls
We built a wooden dog-house looking thing. Trap lid that the delivery drivers would put the boxes in. There were fewer drivers then, so we'd explain and they'd do it. Now we'd have to put a sign up or something.
I have a different issue now, because some of them know I'm 99% of the time home, if I don't show up they drop it over the wall (1.6m) the problem isn't things breaking but we being away for 2 or 3 days and rain
can't wait to get the new doorbell, so I can talk remotely with them.
"you either don't deliver it or please drop it in the garage"
yep over
generally it's not breakable things
that's why I want the damn smart doorbell, I can even build a box for them to drop stuff
the box worked really well way back. hard part was getting the drivers to do it.
one fedex driver was a super ass and would set the parcel NEXT to the box, but not IN. and facing the street, so any car would see it.
almost done with the third rail
heh that kind of stuff that requires collaboration from driver has that problem
here as they're usually the same ones every day, and most already know me would be easy
We had that box like 25-30 years ago and lived in the country then. Delivery drivers were a little less dime a dozen. 🙂
Last night / now
Everything done but the toolhead now.
Found some small oversights. Missing a 5015 blower that's 24V, damaged fan pin, etc.
More progress.
looking good
Argh. Remaining Ender 5 is my only working enclosed printer right now. Just threw an error. Jump jumped to 55C for some reason and it threw an error.
I think it may be that I'm cranking up the part cooling fan and it's distributing more heat to the chamber.
$160 for 7kg of CF-ABS is way too awesome a deal. I do not have a reason for that much CF-ABS, but daaaamn.
Sold out already, though.
Also, yes, the problem is the part fan. I caught it kicking in.
Raised the shutdown threshold to 60C but kept the watermark the same.
It's coming down from 57.5-ish
Or not.
It's holding at 57C. I lowered the part fan.
New printer homes
just messing with you
don't want to ruin it for you but it's most likely the motora
Well, biscuits and shit.
That's okay, cuz I got the new tensioners on the actual printer that this build log is supposed to be about.
heh 2 in 1
Probably going to finish the new one (Oscar) wayyyyy before I finish the old one (Big Bird).
Now that there are two, I shall reveal my printer's code names.
not sure I revealed mine but it has a name as well
drumroll
wat not saying
lol
hahaha it's not very imaginative
Flow...
there are multiple reasons for the name though, one being half my nickname other half because plastic flows
F$%#ing ridiculous. The tensioner is still acting up, but it's just that one part. I swear it's the toothed idler.
Wondering if I put the wrong shims in place.
Yep. x2
Nice! How's it working?
Good luck. It's pretty simple once you get in the groove of doing it.
yea
I think my 1.1.5 on this printer is b0rked though. Something is off about the idler.
the left toothed idler
Not sure. Maybe I swapped two of the x joint printed shims?
Cuz the height really seems off.
I need to print the spacers
Heh, I was printing last minute stuff I forgot all day.
Oh! The Y endstop! Oh the shroud!
printing @tropic idol the reset of the belt tensioner
the front xjoint spacers were updated shortly after the step file release. 3 versions now, along with labels on them.
I will look into that, then. Thanks.
I'm tired. Gonna go read and pass out. No late Friday for me.
8.5 is new
Oh. Very nice.
I have the fabreeko kit which one do I need I have the zero g kit 1.3 i think
I know I dont have the v1.4
either 8s or 9s
that style idler varies
some measure 8.5, 8.6, or 9
9s are what we used for those before, and they worked fine. Just had more up and down play.
to tight is bad
better to have them float
also I have had toothed idlers that were not bored large enough for the bearings, and once the bearing was pressed in they became crunchy.
I have the kit with the black rails
you should start your own build log 🙂
great way to share your build, and what mods you have done
I don't think it's the idler spacers unless I switched them up, which I will check.
cant hear you 🤣
still nothing
go check my pretty enclosure
I'm thinking top back centered
That's my favorite spot when I get it to work with lighting.
Update: Not working on Big Bird today (the old Merc). Working on Oscar, who is being a fussy little baby.
@tiny bramble I think I might have my back printing again
@worldly current Found a source for Daylight XXL. https://www.genericprinter.com/product/generic-xxl-lightstick/ Never seen the distributor before, though.
@tiny bramble FYI I followed Gargamel advice and went with these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32476317187.html
it ends up being a lot cheaper with RGBW
you might be able to find white only as well
Oh, my Daylight on a Matchsticks will be here today. Beef was asking Fabreeko about Daylight XXL.
I honestly want the PCB because there's no glue to melt, lol
They're going to look good. Those series of lights are awesome.
I'm using white because it's what I've already got wired.
I also like to match opposite light color with the color that’s printing 😅
no macro for that though… just manual
I got some XXL’s from a guy on etsy they work great
wouldn’t you want to print this in white to absorb less light?
i guess it would be ugly tho
Also who has white ABS?
Gray, though...
Can't wait for mine to come in the mail today
spent like $300 on leds, power supplies, controllers, wiring, connectors all to not use it lol
yeah the 45 deg ones are nice on official docs
oh good, those are the ones i grabbed
Yeah, this printer project I did awhile ago I spent a ton on lights and stuff, and had the same deal. Wound up doing something else entirely.
i have all this brand new LED stuff i cant return now lol. I guess ill sell it for cheap in this server
nevermind on them being nice lol. Im going to redraw them at 20-30 degrees so you can see first layer of print better. Also doesnt have anything on the back of the piece to locate it on the rail, it just free spins
CAD time!
I just installed 3 sets of them with 3 strips on each printer lol. took like an hour to set them up
going to make a spacing tool as well
Can I have a look when you're done? I'm considering how to setup my own.
spacing them was difficult IMO with printer on table. spacing tool would help a lot
Are they in a row?
Got the matchstick modeled, finally.
wdym?
Like are they spaced in a row, or one in front and one on each side?
Oh, you got the XXL, yeah?
Nm, lol
Daylight on a matchstick mount. Holds a diffuser. Mounts perpendicular to the extrusion (i.e., flat on the extrusion). <11mm thick. Would be thinner, but the connector on the stick is problematic.
First print went okay. Need a brim, though.
This design is inconvenient to install but lets me use the M3x6mm button heads I have sitting around. Looking forward to playing with the clear PETG to get different effects.
This won't work. I'll work on another iteration tomorrow.
PSA: This is not what the first layer of a Benchy should look like.
Not a cali cube, either.
I think one of the stepper pulleys was loose.
Yep. It was. Printing beautifully now.
Fixed that #$@%. Heating up Grover to print it.
Simple, no fancy stuff. It's two holders that attach to the extrusion, then a diffuser that mounts along with the light strip.
Hopefully works with both button and socket head screws for the diffuser. The screws mount close to the LEDs so they don't get in the way.
Sent to print
First print looks great, second is almost done. I'm working with Oscar (the new Merc) to get it printing. Lots of small issues adding up.
@tiny bramble can yours hold 13 v3d rgb leds ?
Mine are the ones you slide on diffuser type
These are plain white LEDs, no RGB
I worked with a coupler and none of them quite made me happy. Hopefully this does the job.
yea
270×12×8mm
Dang, nope. Well, the mount will work.
But the I'd need to know the hole spacing to make it work for yours
step file
Dude. DUDE.
That's just the mount, doesn't include the PCB. 😦
I just the need to know how far apart the screw holes are, really
nope, should be yours
hopefully, can you check? it's for the classic daylight on a stick
neo
It's derived from the "on the stick", so I think the hole pattern is the same
probaly
hold on, must eat
take time no rush
close up pic
me too
time for some food
Strange printer is popping but cant tell where its comming from but only intermitten
right belt is moving up/down
too loose ?
still printing good though
brand new roll and has been dried
strange cant take a video of it ...video keeps flashing
That's a lot of belt motion
heck yea
i pulled that belt really tight too
left side straight
ill rip it apart after this print
only top belt
dafuq
loosened the belt crimp to pull it tighter and came all the way o
Ahhhhh
so now I have to pull the whole tool head apart
If there is one thing I could change about EVA 3...
Yeah. I'd love to be able to undo the belts without removing the hotend
yea its a pain
Since I do not have the CAD, the stick_diffuser file may be wrong, but I hope not.
Wait. 270mm wide? Damn, no that's not right
Yeah, I realized the length is different than the version I was modeling against.
ahhh
dont matter cant print right now anyway
dont feel like messing wit h the printer
best rule I ever made myself is to know when to quit for the day
🤬
dont have all the 1.1.5 parts printed yet
so Im done for at least 2 weeks since I have no printer and on PTO
its all good
i got a new game to play
lol, okay, you're good then, lol
yea just got released today
firmament
Haven't heard of that one
oooooh
welk time to pack the filament away in a dryer box
This looks awesome. Have fun.
Playing with layer heights for this diffuser. I want more diffusion, so I'm going thicker. Alternatively, I'll make it thicker with equally thin layer heights. But I'm testing thicker layers first.
I've got another, thicker version going right now at .16mm, because it came out foggiest. I believe it's a balance of diffraction through the layer and the number of layers. If I go with thicker layers, I'll get fewer layer boundaries again.
2.4mm thick diffusers look lovely.
pics pls
@feral prawn Sorry, was away from keyboard. Some nice weather rolling through right now.
looking good
That's at 75%, btw. I'm printing the final diffuser for the overhead triggered lights.
This is bright.
I can’t find a good image to count (maybe I should scroll more, but I’m lazy so just gonna ask :P). is this the 12 or 18 led stick?
and are those with 3 pins?
12 pixels, 2 pin, 24v
It's 158mm wide, btw (I couldn't find that anywhere)
I have all the electronics for the led wired up, I just need to find some nice lights, I have a meter of 5050 10mm addressable led, but it can be better I think
The Disco on a Stick is just WS2812B, fwiw
There are ones with RGBW that look much better if you want bright and addressable (but that would mess up your wiring)
ahhh, I have 2 rings 24v super bright!! the guy who sold me the nf crazy put lot of goodies extra in the box, fans, and those led. just 2 wires. So you hook it up on the unused hotend pins, or something like that?
or on instead of fan
How many LEDs?
I'm using 24 on a fan port and it's okay
can’t recall, I dismissed them because I am invested in 5v led… 2 ~10cm rings let me check
oooh those will be interesting to see in use
@potent stone FWIW I ordered some 5v ones RGBW addressable
Ooh, built in diffusers
Swapped out the stepper drivers on Oscar, the new Merc. Hopefully that will fix the layer shifting, since the only change was a set of higher-current steppers.
no go.
Problem: I get continuous layer shifting, always to the front right. Slow movements are not an issue, just rapid acceleration.
Things I've checked:
- Belt path & alignment
- Belt tension
- Stepper pulleys are tight and engaging
- Swapped stepper drivers
- Checked cable connections
- Corrected stepper current
Octopus 1.1, set to 1.1A for 2A steppers
I did not (going to go back and do that), but they're very tightly engaged.
max_velocity: 200
max_accel: 3000
Gonna check the set screws again anyway
set screws are the only thing I could think of with those settings
that or maybe you have bad steppers?
I was thinking the same thing, but these are tested.
Agreed. I'm gonna do loctite and see what happens.
had issues with my very first merc build setup, cannot recall what it did. But I had to loctite the pulleys to fix it.
One simple cali cube, coming up. I feel like @old marten is right about loctite here.
my 5 pro is running at 1.1 run current, 600 travel moves at 10k
would be running at 1.4, but had klipper shutdowns from the drivers getting to hot.
Hoping to reach 10k once this gets going. I did a lot of work to remove the stock frame brackets and square it up.
Even the frame taps are off-center on this one.
I only run 10k for travels and infill
slower accels for other features
but my current input shaper was rated for something like 6k
That makes a lot of sense. Ringing doesn't matter where it's not visible
I haven't been able to get enough accel to play with acceleration control until now.
Just gonna bookmark that in my brain...
no real testing to come up with those numbers, just sounded good when I entered them
I haven't played much with PS or SS, so I'm absorbing whatever I can ahead of time.
Here goes the print
It looks very much like that fixed it. Many thanks, @old marten.
...Now this means I have to fix the tensioners on Big Bird.
That's okay. Tomorrow.
These grub screws are undersized, I believe. And I grabbed blue loctite, so they're working loose again already. I have spares and red loctite, though.
To make sure I'm not crazy and the loctite didn't set before it was all the way in, I retightened all of the grubs and am reprinting. Then I'll swap with fresh grubs. Really don't want to undo all the belts, but if I have to...
I have done plenty of work just by loosening the front towers
I might have even swapped motor mounts once before without taking off the belts from the tool head?
lol, okay, I'll get experimental if I have to, then.
I have swapped a lot of parts, many without undoing the belts at the tool head... every released and un-released update.
Looks like the loctite set on me before I got the screws all the way in. Still keeping a close eye on this, though.
Got the belts tensioned to around 120Hz.
About to rerun the accelerometer and fine-tune it.
Getting closer
No idea why the massive peak at 100Hz
Yes...I think it's time to go faster.
X graph looks good. Whats up with Y?
Something is rattling.
That's all I can figure.
But it's def weird.
There was a macro to generate vibration frequencies
Hmm. Well, it's definitely the bottom belt on the y axis, but why?
More tests, I guess.
Making very slow progress here. Busy writing an article.
I wish I was native speaker, writing is a pain in the ***
Still a pain to me, even native. This language is annoyingly flexible. I was a business writer for a long time, so I use too many words when one will do.
My supervisor when I was studying was American, and he said in technical/scientific writing nobody cares if you repeat the same words 10 time in 5 lines (In italian we tend to stretch to very obscure synonyms instead of repeating a word twice in the text)
it just need to be clear, no doubt of what you are saying… after many years, I still didn’t managed to get there 😅
Lol, that may be my problem. I hate repeating words with multiple syllables and refuse to use one more than twice in a sentence. I try to stick to once every two sentences at most.
Honestly, most native English speakers can't write, either. You're in good company. 😉 😆
P.S. I loved Umberto Eco's writing. His addiction to synonyms was fun.
I can't write in Italian either :P... I guess it boils down on being a story teller or not 😂 ... I pity those depending on the documentation I wrote. You're are so complete and clear! I really admire your effort on writing up like that
eheh... you know, I want to start a business around a software I wrote, and I need better documentation :D.. but I have no extra funds, and the business plan is crap, so..
If that changes, you know where to find me. 😉
the hard part is never writing the code, is the business plan
Indeed. Ideas are easier to come by than a good business plan.
(And startup capital)
I had a lot of ideas, started a lot of projects, but never managed to create a plan to market etc
Ditto. But ideas have to come before marketing plans, so it makes sense there are always more ideas than plans, I guess.
I started car sharing app in 2010 (repo is still there abandoned), than I thought it was dumb and never finished
The accumulated stress from being responsible for a car sharing app would take 10 years off of your life. Good decision, IMO. 😉
Anything new going on ..been a bit since being here
Not until this weekend, probably. I've been working on an article all week. HOPING to get a printer up this weekend, but... 🤞
@tiny bramble yea me too Voron almost ready to print
COEX filament is now selling chipboard/cardboard spools. Might have to give them another shot.
Their abs colors are lacking and the price isn't competitive. But they are us made and one state away from me
Use their pla at work
Yeahhhh just saw the price... 😦
Not impressed with the specs on their ABS Prime, either
@tiny bramble getting closer
That looks great
Zero G been updated 1.1.5
Yea its comming along only been 5-6months progress
Good news: Daylight on a Sticks are out for delivery.
Going to try and get Oscar to behave today. Wish me luck.
good lack
I'll take that, too
another and you build an enclosure
For and Ender 3 or some such. Blech...
I cannibalize Ender 3s for terrible purposes.
How to use an Ender 3 to build a Merc:
- Disassemble it.
- Use the parts to build a heat set insert press.
- Throw away the rest.
Hmm. I do have the parts to build another bed slinger, though... EDIT: my sanity returned
I rotated a stepper that had a wire that may be brushing the belts. @old marten that tip about not undoing the belts saved me a ton of time; thank you. Got the belts settled again and have retensioned to 120Hz. About to start doing tests.
What is going on with my bottom belt?!?
To loose
It seemed loose but I tuned both to 120Hz. Inner belt, 150mm away. I'm doing something wrong with my spectrometer.
I find those apps hard to use still, they get things close
From there I use that graph
Tightened both
Gotcha. What's up with the giant peak on the lower belt? I can't resolve it.
Might clean up as they even put in tension
I reset the tension, tuned to 120. This is the second test. I think the right belt (orange) needs to go a touch tighter.
Right?!? Just discovered this. One sec.
Getting closer
I tuned them both to 120 (as close as I could get) and am now gradually tightening the loose one. @feral prawn
these things still confuse me
The giant peak on the blue one? That's what I can't figure out.
The graphs are supposed to match, but something is loose or rattling on that belt
Worried it could be the toothed idler
Not sure if this is close enough.
That's one off my 5 pro last time I ran it
Ah, so that peak is not something to worry about too much. But I can bring the belts closer, too.
I'm keeping track of this tuning so I can compare between
Need to start adding notes as to what charged when I run them
That's a good idea. Do you ever use OneNote?
Tried it, not for me
Odd that the spikes flipped
It's because the axes are labeled differently. Just the chart changing the color
Ahh
The peaks are definitely much sharper.
I still don't understand how you read the frequency
how do you know when it's tight enough?
Any background noise shows on those apps
Another printer printing makes it impossible to use
Had to turn everything off in the room and it was still noisy
this seems one could run a jupiter notebook on the pi and keep track of things 🤔, I wonder if it’s possible. Also it could be nice to have mainsail automate and annotate this things
any good guide on this stuff? I have gone through klipper docs and still dont get ir
I'm trying to follow what TC says and my iota of common sense offer.
I still have no idea what causes the spikes in the graphs, I jus fake my way along with it
K. I left the belt tension as-is with the last test. I'm doing accel testing now to see how it goes.
Had to stop for a bit; met with an editor.
This video is supposed to be a brief overview on what the input shaper graphs can tell us. It is the first video of a series of videos which will give a more in depth view on the kinematic system and input shaping in Klipper.
As always: feel free to jump to those parts, that help you with your problems:
00:00 Intro
00:57 What we can learn from...
video that helped me out a bit
I’m doing accelerometer data analysis stuff at work, learning more about it every day
omg. 30 minutes. why can't people write stuff anymore. 😭
it’s sectioned out, not a bad watch
oh good
Using accelerometers at work to determine forces present within hitch mount accessories (bike racks, cargo carriers etc). Analyzing accelerometer data can be very confusing lol. working on low pass filtering and FFT of my data. FFT stuff is more applicable to input shaper because it transfers time domain data to frequency domain data, like input shaper charts.
hoping for my work to help me with my input shaper understanding
I'm guessing it's CPU power that prevents us from using FFTs?
Cuz I know those are super CPU intensive and the Pi is not.
no that chart is an FFT of accelerometer data I believe
It’s in Frequency domain I believe
i’m trying to get better at reading FFT charts and such is what i’m saying, hopefully my knowledge transfers to input shaper
LOL, I realized the last time I read about FFTs was in the late 90s... I imagine technology has progressed. FFS, lol.
working on writing R script to analyze CSV files, would be cool if i took raw CSV data from input shaper and did my own graphing and analysis of it
This is my only concern so far. Probably not going to occur often, but it's interesting.
that chain looks sketchy
I did a fair bit of looking into chain mounting options before I went with that. I chose 7mm chain because it's very lightweight. The sag is deliberate and within tolerances. It just looks sloppy. 🤷
We have liftoff.
It's printing. 😄
Right, so one working printer (still to be tuned) down, one to go.
And the Daylight on a Sticks are here
This looks like layer shifting, but it wobbles back and forth.
wow, how fast was it?
are the z system wobblying or because the vibrations?
It looks more like layer shifting. I haven't touched the Z axis.
it could be the motor pulley, i had similar issues because the pulley were sliding skipping random tiny steps
Good thinking, but if that were the case, the shifting would accumulate. This wobbles back and forth every few layers.
but it seems it keeps going straight overall in the right direction
Yeah. Normally layer shifting would angle off in one direction.
And it's shifting like it would if it were layer shifting! but then it shifts back.
can you measure if the bed moves horizontally back and forth when moving up/down?
I've wondered about mounting an accelerometer to it, but it's not shifting like that.
logically it’s the only thing that makes sense, right?
The shifts are angled, which makes if it's the steppers being weird.
but why would it cycle so precisely
It's not really precise, though. It's more like both steppers randomly lose a step on fast travels..
shit like the accel is too high for the stepper
I'll crank it way down, try again.
ohh yeah
Capped accel at 3k. That should do. If they can't do 3k, I'm in trouble.
you have SO motors, right?
SO?
They're 48mm 2A steppers from Stepperonline
LOL SO = stepperonline
omg
Yes, I have SO motors, lol
I wanted to get those, but from ali I waited weeks without any order updates. so I got LDOs… than I found out I could have them fro. amazon 😓 next day delivery
they look good, I heard they are also less noisy than ldos
They've been super solid for me
so if 3k is no go, something else is off, I wouldn’t blame the motor 🤔
These motors worked fine on another printer I built before this. I'm reusing stuff, actually.
Well, mostly. Not the rails.
Same issue. Cutting the run current.
Slightly improved. I'm going to let it cool down, reslice, and try again.
Jon, you wouldn't be willing to share the step files/stl files for those tensioners you made would you?
Yes, but they don't work right now. 😦 One of them is off and I'm trying to figure out why.
I keep lowering it. Down to 0.75 this last run. 0.8 looked the best. None of this makes sense, so I'm thinking the steppers or drivers are having issues.
I'm doing accel testing with the lowered voltage now
Not done, but I've suppressed a lot of the peaks
It's weird trying to tune and tighten both belts in lockstep.
I think we have a winner.
Still a touch of shifting, but I turned the current way down to 0.75. Retrying at 0.9A now that the belts are nice and tight.
K. Fairly certain this is a board or driver issue. 0.9A caused all kinds of issues again.
Got an idea. I'm going to take the lid off of the case. That should greatly help cooling and eliminate the drivers.
If this works (printing now) it would explain a great deal. This case has the least airflow of my OmniBoxes.
HA! I think I found the issue. Going to have to print a new back panel for this case that mounts a fan, though.
Definitely cooling related. I've got a new rear panel ready to print. It's going to take awhile, though. My only printer rn is the Ender 5 Pro.
I’d be happy to help diagnose and try to fix a couple things?
One sec. I forgot @short cove has a working version. He modded mine and I know his version works. I think I have it.
Update: nope, doesn't work.
@tepid portal Give me a sec to start a print and I'll get you the step file as-is. May or may not work.
No rush, thanks!
I really hope this new rear panel works. If it doesn't, I will be sad.
Fully panel mounted like the my other merc, though.
Usual caveats and lack of warranty apply. The left belt is too low on my build.
@tepid portal Should sit in your V slot channel nicely. I modified it from the T slot I use.
Thanks! Just opened them up. The issue you were having was with belt alignment right?
Nevermind, apparently I can’t read haha
It is belt alignment. It may be my frame, my belt installation, or the tensioners. Thus all the lack of warranties and such. 🙂
Specifically my lower belt/left tensioner.
any reason to cut deeper on the back
cut deeper?
on the connector cutouts
Ah, so the panel mounts snap in
The XT-60 projects exactly 2mm, so it's a 2mm thick cutout
and so on
Okay, made some changes so that it will work with my zeroG, hopefully we are on the same rev and it will work for you also. I’m doing some tests out of PLA now and will report back if it all aligns nice
oh damn might need to cut mine like that
Yeah, that's why the F3D and STEP file contain bodies and not just sketches. Includes depth
crap
eep, sorry dude
no worries not printed yet
With a little more experience I'll write up a guide on making a back panel, maybe
possibly maybe
Sweet! Lemme know how it turns out! If your prints aligns okay, then I know it's my build.
Mine still has belt issues that I haven’t looked into yet. It is the right hand x joint toothed idler that the belt walks up and scraps. But doesn’t affect prints or make noise when printing.
I forgot you were having issues until I went back and re-read what happened.
I feel a screw top and bottom to help align the insert would help
I also printed a couple of frame braces and a vzbot toolhead with no issues too. Just minor belt rub issue.
I’d venture to bet that aligning the screw with the center of the pulley would be best, you would just need to be careful that the screw you use wouldn’t be too long at max tension. Could always make the C shape deeper
Also, here are the results of the batch I printed
It seems to be aligned with my carriage brackets, but it looks like my print head is a bit too high relative to my carriage. I wonder if the rails I bought are taller than standard
What version did you print of the EVA files?
I’ll have to dig back and confirm
The belt angle won't affect print quality, but it is incorrect in that version of the front.
Trying to bring up Big Bird (the first Merc) and can't get the MCU to connect. I was having issues with it earlier and swapping cables is not helping.
Dang, it looks like you printed an old version of the front. The BLTouch is older. Did you get them off GitHub or Printables?
I always forget to reply directly reply to notify ppl.
Ah, I see. I accidentally ran system up date on this printer and now I've been bitten by the USB bug
Interestingly, that seems like the only one I printed from the git hub. I’ll print the most current one and give that a shot now
One sec. Something's up.
Okay, it's an old file and the last two commits aren't there. WTF>
@tepid portal I've uploaded the correct files for the front and belt grabbers.
Great, will give those a shot. Thanks!
Sure thing. Sorry for the issue. 😦
Rear panel for Oscar is printed. Printing the fan cage, then I can install this and see how it goes.
Still working on the connection issue with Big Bird.
Oscar's parts are done. Gonna have a little coffee ☕ and start figuring stuff out.
Hmm. Oscar's parts are done, but the new bed cable isn't here yet. I may wire it up anyway with the cable I have and just leave the back panel loose.
TODO:
Oscar: Install Daylight on a Stick/free up Daylight on a Matchstick for Big Bird.Oscar: Print the new HSI/lid support crossbar and install.Oscar: Transition to new rear panel and install fan.- Big Bird: fix USB communication.
- Big Bird: test belt alignment resolution.
- Big Bird: test Daylight on a Matchstick, print more mounts
- Lastly, get a running Merc to do another OmniBox test print.
Big Bird is not fixed by the udev patch. Something else is wrong and I've swapped USB cables three times.
Daylight on a Stick installed. Looks funny because I printed it in two pieces to fit on my bed more easily.
This is what I did when I had issues due to print tolerances. It works well, I haven’t had time to look at my belt issues yet or if it’s alignment issues. I’m running modded x joints for stealthburner too that I made from the stl’s a while back.
Got a lot done, but only got to tick off one of the seven printer-related things. Wound up running errands and working on some other stuff.
New OmniBox for Oscar. Air intakes are moved up front. Working on adding a blower for the stepper drivers.
@tiny bramble nice
I need to find something to replace the metal case on the ender 5 plus. Pain to get the electronics
https://jon-harper.github.io/OmniBox
Takes a bit to print, but very well worth it. Makes servicing things a lot easier.
Not exactly. You have to pick the parts you need for your configuration.
But the skr 3 ez is supported, if that's what you mean
Ok wasn't sure on connections for all the wiring
Two options: just pass it through cutouts (the default) or figure out a panel mounting solution like mine.
I may actually have a spare case from the last release soon here. I print several for each release.
That's the one you have? The SKR 3 EZ?
@cedar depot Here are all the MCUs supported: https://jon-harper.github.io/OmniBox/0.9.9/support/mcu/
Documentation for the OmniBox 3D printer electronics case.
@tiny bramble I really like the omnibox
@tiny bramble Just curious how much filament do I need to print one of the onmi boxes I have ender 5 plus/skr3 EZ board/PI4b/SSR 4 ( 4010 fans ) Just trying to get ideal on everything. Also can you send some pics
2nd try. First try had a derailment after a few hours of printing due to the angle caused by the screw. I added another option to have the screw inline with the pulley and am trying again. If this works I’ll send the step and stl files
Takes about 1 roll-ish
Oh dang. That's some shavings.
What pics do you need? I've got plenty, but if something missing from the doc site for clarity and whatnot, let me know.
About to close up Grover's OmniBox here soon.
@tiny bramble Nice
I'm still have to download all the parts
How much Filament est does it take to print
The core body takes ~.75kg of PLA, depending on print settings. I know that one for certain.
The rest puts you around 1kg-1.25kg total. That's a bit of a guess since I don't reprint all the panels and such every time.
Are you following the print checklist? Lots easier to make sure you've got what you need.
@tiny bramble yes following the print guide. I have it on the screen ( very well documented ) I was looking too see if I had enough filament
Thanks! Just making sure. The BOM has filament and all the other stuff you'll need, as well.
@cedar depot PS: I have a spare case. Don't know what shipping is, but if you can cover that, you're welcome to it.
color ?
Solid gray. Polymaker gray.,
Same as this
It's a test article, so not the super prettiest print, but it'll do.
Heh, thanks. Just offering since I have spares of these all the time.
I have everything except the heatbed connector
You don't have to use a heatbed connector. I use started doing this instead of passing the wire through.
One sec. I'll show you what a generic panel looks like
Generic rear panel: Fan in the middle pulls air through the case and over the stepper drivers with cutouts for wiring to pass through over and under.
Looks good \
Oscar is back up.
About to print a calibration cube.,
I also put the case temp thermistor by the stepper drivers for a better reading.
Printing.
NO. NOT AGAIN.
Run current is now 1.0A. Going to try this...again.
Looks better now...
Still shifting.
WTF.
Okay, I'm ordering new steppers. Dunno what else to do and I'll end up using them anyway.
Seems to stop shifting after the first couple of layers??
About 2mm up
that's weird
Starting to wonder if it's not the current draw from the lights. ~40 lights + bed + hotend + pi + fans...
Then add a bunch of new current draw from the steppers...
Also printing PETG, so lots of waste heat
try without lights?
350W
bed alone (ender 5 is 220)
130 remain, also its never exactly 350 so I would say 100, hotend alone 50?
I believe it's a 50W cartridge
10+ the removed 30 for margin)
Just 4W?
ahhhh
so like you can see is tight
leds off and try it
I only plan to have mine working with hydra
Oh, heck. I did the math all in one equation and got 306W with the lights off.
add lights 346
LRS-450-24 will fit, but it's $70. 😦
you need a 500W PSU 😅
Orrrr
ding ding ding
oooor
Finding out how cheap and small a 24V PSU is. Octopus has 3 power inputs. I can just power one from that.
you can move the bed to ac
this is the right answer
wait you're not made of money?
it doesn’t need to be expansive
No, I am NOT a cannibal.
come on everyone who's into 3D printing is
I'd be like, "here, have three thumbnails for that Voron."
hehehe
you can just get a ssr, a silicon pad an use your current bed (yeah, it’s an irreversible move… but still…
he does have a point
I think I’ve even seen 235 mic6 bed… but yea, that’s slightly more expensive
I have an SE-450-24 underneath this enclosure. But it won't fit my OmniBox.
Grr.
RS-75-24 is 25$
I will need to think on this issue.
In the mean time, I've set max_power on the bed to 75% and am now trying a reprint.
just kill the lights
I did. Still acted funky, or appeared to.
hm
dying PSU?
could be. I forgot which machine this PSU came from.
I had one machine I bought and the seller told me the PSU was bad and he had given up on it. After a (very) thorough dusting, it's run wonderfully.
It's printing better. One layer shift at the start of the print.
Also remembered the toolhead CAN board is going to draw some power, too.
Prolly not much, but it's there.
it will
Almost done. Looks much better.
Think I'm going to have to bite the bullet on the new 450W power supply. Every other option takes too much time or costs too much.
This sucks, because I will also need to figure out a solution for my other Merc.
I don't have an AC bed
zero G is a 500watt
Both printers are AC bed
Zerog is a 1000watt fabreeko bed and the other is a voron 750w bed
I'll trade you a questionable 350W PSU for that 500W PSU... j/k. kinda.
lol
mine is orig to the ender 5 plus
@tiny bramble next going to be the omni box for the zero g I really dislike the creality case
Noice
@tiny bramble got to the crossbar main body crossbar file under guided tour says it doesn't exist
@tiny bramble same for the front body files https://github.com/jon-harper/OmniBox/tree/0.9.9-frozen/Core/0.9.9-frozen Body/Front
@tiny bramble I think I was still able to get to the files
Oh NO! I see what happened! OH dude, that's ridiculous. I need to fix that.
Sorry, I was running an errand.
if you print the unified base, you don't need the front and rear
you only need one LED backer
@cedar depot do you have a Raspberry Pi?
ok
FYI that side panel does not work well with the current OmniBox release if you have a Raspberry Pi. The extension cables don't turn that tightly.
Yea i have a PI4B
Is it going in the OmniBox?
yes
Right on. You'll want a CPU tray for it
will a ssr fit in there too