M1.1/EVA 3/Dual-Z/Custom enclosure

[tiny bramble]

I guess I'll get started.

[tiny bramble]

Endstop bumpers are kinda outta range. Need to shorten them a few mm.

[tiny bramble]

First power on with CANBUS

Now I'm setting the bed limits and finding where the screws are.

[feral prawn]

looking good

[tiny bramble]

got the screw locations.

yikes. the deviation on my abl is pretty high. EDIT: I think it was one of the bed screws wasn't set tightly. seems better

[short cove]

I was a bit worried going to unklicky from bltouch but now I’m using it I wish I moved sooner. Deviation is minuscule with it and if it get bad deviation on the one point over 3 probes it does the measure again.

[tiny bramble]

It's gonna be Klicky or Beacon for me soon here. I wanna get this ready to enclose first, but new ABL is definitely a goal.

[feral prawn]

klicky is just great

[tiny bramble]

I'm leaning that way for cost reasons. Beacon is still fairly expensive, IMO.

[tiny bramble]

I think I have a new door done. Gonna print the corners and such now.

Using perpendicularly machined corner brackets here.

[feral prawn]

fancy

[tiny bramble]

Like that flair you've got now? 😉

[feral prawn]

hahaha, worked hard to get it

you too can get one

[tiny bramble]

I considered it when I first got this running. I might once it's finished being enclosed and actually looks nice.

[feral prawn]

I did take my time to get it presentable

[tiny bramble]

My wiring was not so clean the first pass and the build plate issue kinda finished it off for me.

^BUT^ ^NOW^ ^THERE^ ^IS^ ^DUAL ^Z^

Oh, dang, it didn't make the text small.

OH HECK

Ah well. Anyway.

Printing the black covers for the door corner brackets. I added some cosmetic corner covers that I'll print after.

Working on the Z chain next.

Also, this spring-mounted endstop bumper isn't super great. Works, but adjusting the Z offset is annoying.

[feral prawn]

clicky+sexbolt = auto z calibration

[tiny bramble]

So how does sexbolt work that it auto sets the bed height? I haven't figured that out yet.

[feral prawn]

homing is done with the sexbolt (endstop)

basically probes on the nozzle

then attaches clicky and probes clicky switch body

and finally probes the bed with clicky

this makes it possible to find nozzle to switch offset

and then nozzle to bed

[tiny bramble]

Ohhhh so the sexbolt is the endstop

[feral prawn]

https://github.com/protoloft/klipper_z_calibration the math is explained here

[tiny bramble]

How do you align multiple Z steppers? Is there more than one sexbolt?

[feral prawn]

single Z right now

but if vorons work with quad z

must be ppossible

[potent stone]

klicky does the bed tilt

[tiny bramble]

Ohhhhh there are no screws

Dang. So probably not workable for a non-kinematic dual z.

[old marten]

All it does is set initial z and nozzle offset

Kicky handles the mesh and tilt

[feral prawn]

https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html#z_tilt works with dual or triple from what I read

[tiny bramble]

I have a stock bed, though. Belt tilt may be caused by steppers or may be caused by the screws.

[feral prawn]

all you need is to ensure that both sides are at the same height

2 right corners are aligned

and 2 left corders

not sure if bed screws adjust still works

[tiny bramble]

I see what you mean. Two sexbolts at a fixed height for auto-align, then Klicky can do the screws_tilt_calculate business.

[potent stone]

nope

[tiny bramble]

Not what he means or won't work?

[potent stone]

1 sexbolt 1 kliky

[feral prawn]

one of each

[potent stone]

in the config you set the position of your 2 leadscrew (or the points where the bed has the leverage to be lifted) and the position of the 4 corners of the bed. in your case you have 2 level of tilt, one can be automatically adjusted (the 2 motors) the other need tilt screw calculate (to adjust the 4 screw of the stock bed). klicky is handling to calculate the 2 screws

[feral prawn]

klicky will be used to tilt the bed

[tiny bramble]

Doesn't that assume kinematic mounting, though?

[potent stone]

you could do just with klicky, but only sexbolt will not be that useful. the “only” thing that it does is to provide a relative point of view to the nozzle and the probe

[potent stone]

no

[feral prawn]

klicky only is fine if you don't swap nozzles that much

I tend to go between .4 .5 and .6 depending on needs and filament

[potent stone]

It calculates the tilt from 2 points up to 4

[tiny bramble]

Hold up. The bed's tilt is on springs, though. Its tilt is independent of the Z gantry. If my bed is wayyyy off (i.e. just installed), won't I end up with binding?

[potent stone]

yes as I said you have to kind of manually fix the screw, but the bed spring/screws should not change much

[feral prawn]

maybe depending how severe it is

I would love to eventually go full hydra but the damn thing is expensive

[tiny bramble]

I mean, if I had a flat bed, this sounds wonderful. But it's not. 😕

[potent stone]

when I had double z, I had to manually turn the front leadscrew to align the bed, If I had 2 independent drivers I would have used the bltouch to calculate the tilt

any probe can do that. klicky can also do sexbolt because it doesn’t retract as the pin of bltouch, so it can trigger the sexbolt at the right time

[tiny bramble]

Hrm...I think I might have an idea, though.

Decouple the two issues.

[potent stone]

you can stock things over a couple months, the stabbing expense is the bed

[tiny bramble]

Fixed Z endstops mounted on each end of the Z gantry would work, the question is how to probe them.

Maybe I could park the toolhead?

Le gasp.

Okay, so the endstop is parallel to the bed here. Its plane will eventually collide with the limit switch.

What if I make it like the Y endstop on Merc, so that it's perpendicular to the bed carriage?

The bed can safely pass it without a problem. As long as both switches are at the same Z offset...

And the only time I need to check that is during an auto-level

[feral prawn]

keep it simple go with klicky or bltouch only to start

[tiny bramble]

This won't replace either

Just replace the two existing endstops. If my Z endstops are triggered at Z=2mm, Klipper doesn't care.

[feral prawn]

thing is once you tilt the bed you can adjust screws

damn I need dual Z now

[tiny bramble]

So I have it working fine with dual Z, it's just a pain to adjust both endstops. I'm basically saying, stop doing that.

[feral prawn]

yep thats what I did with merc

[tiny bramble]

As long as they remain at the same height, the gantry is level. And that's all I need from my Z endstops.

[feral prawn]

I would try to use bltouch to tilt and then check screws

[tiny bramble]

Yes, correct. Keep BLTouch or whatever, just change the Z endstop locations.

[feral prawn]

forget z endstops

you don't even need them

in regular use bed should never get too tilted anyway

[potent stone]

and what do you want is not a bed levelled with the frame, you really want a bed levelled with the gantry

[feral prawn]

true

[potent stone]

which may or may not be the same thing

[feral prawn]

or don't use a spirit level 😆

[tiny bramble]

The bed and gantry can be parallel independent of the gantry. Springs, y'all.

At this point we're talking fractions of a degree of difference, though

And all that difference is handled when I pass the bed with the BLTouch to calculate the screws tilt.

[tiny bramble]

Bland looking, but it's a cable chain mount. Hopefully this will work better than the last. It's about 50mm lower now.

Calling it quits for the day. The drag chain anchor position is off, and I already sent it to print.

[short cove]

z tilt makes both steppers at the same height, its good for making sure bed is level at the steppers if one drops but the other doesnt at power off. need to have 2 z steppers defined. the screw calc sends you on a infinite journey i have found, i just set up a dial gauge and set up bed screws with that. you could also just use the nozzle and a feeler gauge at the 4 corners. i have 1 stepper that drops so i home then z tilt, need to make it a machine on command.

z tilt is easily done with your bltouch

[tiny bramble]

Z tilt is already working. I'm trying to make it easier to adjust the endstops, but there's also other discussion going on about Klicky and Sexbolt. Since I don't have either right now and z tilt already works, I went back to working on that. 👍

[feral prawn]

in theory even bltouch+sexbolt works

the advantage of that is the automatic z offset when you change nozzles or to compensate for thermal expansion at different temperatures

but I think thermal expansion is kind of irrelevant in ranges of 50C

[old marten]

With klicky your nozzle keeps a much safer distance to the bed

Bl touch you would need a very tall sex bolt

[tiny bramble]

Door is much better. The four screws visible will eventually hold a panel in place. Mimi was very helpful during assembly.

Gotta make sure I don't forget to knock out space for the handle, though

[tiny bramble]

• New Z axis carriage joints are on.
• Already broke the cable chain anchor. 🤷‍♂️ I'm going to drop cable chain on the bed for now and keep moving.
• Removed both Z limit switches to design a mount.

Fusion 360 is such fragile software. Sigh.

[feral prawn]

oh they all are

you never worked with solidworks did you

[tiny bramble]

Nope

This must be a CAD problem, though. I've never worked with such flakey software before.

I mean, not that's over a decade old and actively maintained.

[feral prawn]

if it's old it's ridden with bugs

[tiny bramble]

New lid design

Underside. Plenty of room for PIR foam.

[tiny bramble]

https://www.amazon.com/Weather-Insulation-Density-Adhesive-Closed/dp/B07PFJW7XY
This will fit in the slot of an extrusion, though it'll be a pain to get in.

1/8"/3mm thickness is half the T-slot depth, so the panels will still be inset a little less than 3mm. 1/4" is just slightly wider than the t-slot, but it fits in the channel

[tiny bramble]

Looks like the lid corners are working out okay.

Allergies are the death of me right now.

[tiny bramble]

Cutouts done for the handles. All of the panels are final dimensions (hopefully) but for t he back rear panel. I've gone uniform 1/8" (~3mm) panels everywhere.

PIR foam will need to be cut pretty tight to avoid too much heat loss.

[tiny bramble]

Cool. Door and lid are both done now, minus acrylic panels

[tiny bramble]

I changed the rear panel. It's vertical now. Redid the mid pieces for the back panel, as well.

Rear view. Much simpler for the back panel.

Remaining:

1. Floor panel
2. Filament intake
3. Rear CANBUS wiring panel
4. Z limit switches
5. Filtration
6. Service lights
7. Door latches
8. Order panels & purchase insulation

[tiny bramble]

Rear connector panel has a first try done.

Rear:

• 1x 2pin Mini Fit Jr for CAN Power
• 1x 8pin Micro Fit 3 for CAN data, USB, and chamber temp.
• 1x PC4-M6 coupler for filament
  Front:
• 1x 2pin Mini Fit Jr for CAN Power
• 1x 2 pin Micro Fit 3 for chamber temp
• 1x 6pin Micro Fit 3 for CAN data and USB
• 1x PC4-M6 coupler for filament.

Panels are removable from both sides for serviceability. The pneumatic couplers use the built in 4.2mm tap hole for the corner bracket to ensure the PTFE mates smoothly.

PTFE goes right through that hole.

[tiny bramble]

Second ABS printer is being obnoxious. hopefully will have it back up shortly

Back, I think.

[tiny bramble]

Revisiting where things are:

1. Rear panel: print-test-fix-print stage.
2. Z limit switches: next
3. Filtration: not started
4. Service lights: also next
5. Door latches: will adapt existing design, likely
6. Floor: Holding off on the floor for now. I want to make sure every wire cutout needed is present.
7. Order panels & purchase insulation: pending on 6.

[feral prawn]

looking good, stealing ideas for my enclosure 😆

[tiny bramble]

I think I fixed my other ABS printer by swapping out the heater, but I'll have to wait and see.

[tiny bramble]

Hmm. I'm getting ideas about diffuse lighting. This is dangerous. I do have clear PETG...

[feral prawn]

been thinking on how to do it as well

that and nozzle leds

I do have some 3mm ones for that

[calm berry]

That works well, imo.

I used clear petg to diffuse some LEDs for a computer project.

I also did some light sanding.

[tiny bramble]

Y'all are tempting me...

I did the chamber thermistor panel mount as 2 row, 2 position, instead of 1 row, 2 position. 🤦‍♂️ Just a one hour fix, but still. Dang.

[tiny bramble]

Gotta work on the panel mount. Packed too tight with the rear of the connectors. Also the PTFE doesn't couple well, so I need to fine an alternate for that, too.

[tiny bramble]

I've moved the steppers for the bed forward to maximize clearance at the back. this will also let me start work on the floor panel (but not yet).

The stepper is now 145mm from the front extrusion

Offset from center by about 25mm if my math is correct.

[tiny bramble]

We have a floor (almost)

[tiny bramble]

And now handles

[tiny bramble]

Z endstop mounts

[tiny bramble]

If these endstop mounts work, I can turn it back on. I need to fix the cable chain height, though, so I'll need to be careful. Too close to the back of the bed and it'll snag.

Looking good

[old marten]

Most printers with z endstops run them at the bottom rather than top

[tiny bramble]

This'll do fine

[tiny bramble]

I've done two iterations of the Z endstop mount, once for each side. Looks and fits much better now.

[tiny bramble]

Status

1. Top rear panel

• Updated base pieces need install
• Upper right piece with panel mount is sole remaining issue

2. Z limit switches: (printing next iteration)
3. Filtration: not started
4. Service lights: paused; considering daylight-on-a-stick
5. Door latches: not started, will adapt existing design
6. Floor:

• Initial design prepared
• Paused in case of changes

7. Order panels & purchase insulation: pending on 6.

[short cove]

What filtration are you thinking? I have a nevermore printed and the filter medium just need to get the fans, but was thinking of doing like what vez did with the cpap tube and blower.

[tiny bramble]

Dual 7530 blowers: one for continuous filtered circulation and one for cooling exhaust. Vacuum cleaner HEPA filter and a decent-sized AC tank. I have an existing AC tank design that I'd like to re-use, but I'm open to whatever will work. I have two different HEPA types to work with on hand, but might switch to something else still.

Nevermore is an option, but 1) Micro doesn't have a HEPA and 2) I'm not fond of the larger design.

I have an existing printed solution, but it's very large and bulky.

[tiny bramble]

It works very nicely.

[tiny bramble]

I think I'm going to cut a notch out of the rear panel and put the PTFE in the upper center. It's not working well in the current position.

[tiny bramble]

I went pretty basic for the PTFE passthru

[ancient rain]

This is a fun thread to follow. Nice work @tiny bramble

[feral prawn]

this is great to steal ideas get inspiration

[tiny bramble]

Thanks!

[tiny bramble]

Looks like a gas mask sipping on a straw, but it'll definitely do.

[feral prawn]

love it

[short cove]

I like how that has the Bowden sitting in the chamber.

[tiny bramble]

Thanks! I'm hoping the clearance is enough to not get stuck once I close it up.

[tiny bramble]

I modified the Z stepper joint so that it sits closer to flush with the floor panel.

[tiny bramble]

I ran out of the dark cherry color that I used for the stepper mounts. I'm redoing that and some other parts in Atomic's Perfect Blue instead.

[tiny bramble]

Next iteration of the rear panel is ready. I've added a third mount point on the bottom to give it a more secure connection. The cable chain is moved up 15mm, IIRC. I moved the connectors for the outside panel down so that they can't possibly have clearance issues. The inside connectors are more widely spaced in the room that they have.

Status

1. Top rear panel:

• Reprinting new version in black and blue
• PTFE passthru: ✅

2. Z limit switches: ✅
3. Filtration: not started
4. Service lights: paused; need to find daylight-on-a-matchstick dimensions
5. Door latches: not started, will adapt existing design
6. Floor:

• Initial design prepared
• Paused in case of changes

7. Panel gaskets: waiting on a hotend swap; will be after rear panel finishes printing (coming week)
8. Order panels & purchase insulation: pending on 6.

I updated the status so soon because I keep forgetting about the panel gaskets. I don't have a TPU-capable hotend installed at the moment. I need to finish up some printing before I can swap.

[raw plaza]

honestly i didnt know tpu was better in a PTFE lined heatbreak until i read that. i thought the last few tpu prints i got from my v6 were pretty good. but it might be the custom heatbreak. https://a.co/d/eFElGht is what i was using. but now im hoping the skinny heatbreak on the TD6 prints some great tpu, it seems like the flow is much more precise

[feral prawn]

specific for tpu? tbh only printed with my nf crazy and had good results

[tiny bramble]

I have the Micro Swiss All-Metal Hotend on these printers. It's notoriously poor with TPU. The stock Mk8 OTOH does a great job with TPU, despite its other shortcomings.

[tiny bramble]

Yeah, it likes to squirm around when there's even the slightest gap. It's a cool substance.

[tiny bramble]

Switching out the easy-to-reach stuff that's blue and testing the new rear panel. Some stuff is still in the queue, but so far it looks good.

The panel mounts have a good snap to them and the Y axis can clear the entire bed without messing up the drag chain.

Might need to take about two links out of the drag chain, though.

[tiny bramble]

Transitioning to blue

New Z stepper mounts, not just a color change. I don't have pics of the improvements, but it's much easier to install and get squared now.

[tiny bramble]

Slightly stalled in some ways by needing to order fasteners.

Top rear panel is effectively done, though. I think it's about time I either figure out filtration or design the gaskets.

[tropic idol]

Always a problem for me

[tiny bramble]

M5 x 10. It's always M5 x 10.

[tropic idol]

Lol for me it’s M3x8 or M3x25

Not sure why

Jeez my build uses almost 300 M3x8

[ancient rain]

I love panel mount connectors. They're part of my end goal. The #1005938207692693515 is great but I dream of things like the Snapmaker Controller

Ideally all with CAN like they have but I'll take some minifits, microfits, and maybe some keystones and you won't find me complaining

[tiny bramble]

Like this? 😄

[ancient rain]

A man after my heart 😍

[tiny bramble]

I have panel mount profiles for a host of stuff in my OmniBox repository. https://github.com/jon-harper/OmniBox/tree/main/Misc/Panel Mounts Might be useful for you. 🙂

[ancient rain]

The omnibox was one of the first AIO external electronics boxes I looked at way-back-when

[tiny bramble]

Can't believe it's been around long enough for folks to say that now, lol.

lol @ that reaction

Now that EVA 3 has trihorns I want to reprint that part...

[tiny bramble]

Fusion 360 is ruining my day and it's not even 5:30 am.

[tiny bramble]

Yay! Bolts came early!

Forgot to order extra tee nuts though. Womp womp.

[ancient rain]

Ali order?

[tiny bramble]

Amazon. I ordered the bolts from Bolt Depot, but they didn't carry tee nuts.

It all shakes out. Package was a day early, Amazon will be here tomorrow.

[tiny bramble]

Paused the past few days for stuff to get delivered and get caught up on other projects, particularly documentation.

I still have work to do finishing up E34M1's assembly docs, so still in a holding pattern here. Docs are more important.

[tiny bramble]

I need a PC4-M6 coupler. I have three and need a fourth. Dangit.

Problem solved. Adapted for a PC4-M10

[tiny bramble]

I may have to take these leadscrews off and clean them.

[tiny bramble]

Filament is loaded!

[feral prawn]

pics

we want pics

[tiny bramble]

And I broke my BLTouch while lubricating the leadscrew. I have a spare, but still. Shit.

[feral prawn]

not like its a cheap thing

[tiny bramble]

Maybe I just jammed the pin. I'll take a closer look after I get these lead screws on.

F#$% squeeling no matter what I do.

[potent stone]

if you had klicky you wouldn’t worry about pins… I also enjoy having some 🧲 handy at any time, when some screw fall right in that tiny place you can’t get it

[tiny bramble]

I'm wired up for Beacon. 😄

[feral prawn]

💸

[potent stone]

ohhhh

[tiny bramble]

So, at $80, I'm happy with BLTouch pins...for now. 😉

But break enough BLTouches...

[feral prawn]

@potent stone still waiting on that STL 😁

[tiny bramble]

https://tenor.com/view/oh-snap-dave-chappelle-saturday-night-live-oh-no-omg-gif-19226541

[potent stone]

ohh, right, totally forgot about it… I am trimming hedges since this morning, I’ll send it over as soon as I’m over with this s**t.. also I have a version that mixes turtle and jonspaceharper for the sherpa and the thr, so I could use the back shroud

[feral prawn]

no need for the shroud yet

[tiny bramble]

I love that you have the cat shroud

There's a 30mm fan version now, btw.

[feral prawn]

ill be modifying it for the cable chain

shroud will be with EVA3

thanks to @tiny bramble

[potent stone]

it’s really handy, many time I need to handle the toolhead, and it really prevents me to touch the pcb in any way (not all the time I remember to unplug the thing)

[tiny bramble]

https://tenor.com/view/love-languages-pea-chu-gif-25871138

I'm full of gifs today.

Okay, but seriously, I need to fix this squeak. I'm destroying my lead screw nuts.

Maybe I can loosen the bed mount? Might have the nuts too tight together?

This is a bad view, but there are four M5 screws that hold the mounts in place. They tap into the extrusion ends.

@potent stone Pics!

You can see the missing 30mm fan for the PCB. I need to install that, too.

[potent stone]

@tiny bramble are you using completely customised stepper towers?

[tiny bramble]

Nope, stock

There's a second extrusion that mounts behind the normal rear extrusion

[potent stone]

yeah, I really would love to steal that pass-though panels for the belt. I am planning a very rough enclosure… Absurdly the cheaper/best option I cam up is to use shelves from the ivar ikea system. the 50x80 wood panels 😅

[tiny bramble]

You can make a decent enclosure with IKEA stuff.

I'm gonna take a break. Allergies are bad today.

[feral prawn]

I printed recently stuff for a lack enclosure

(not for me)

[potent stone]

yes but the lack have a crappy wood, if you cut it everything will go down to pieces, the ivar is just pine wood, you can cut and work with… I have to test if routing a few mm where the x-joints need some space will impact the strength too much

[feral prawn]

ah yes for cutting lack sucks

that thing is mostly cardboard

[potent stone]

it might be good for heat insulation 😅

[tiny bramble]

Dead air pockets are wonderful insulator. More closed cells = better insulation.

Pressed fiberboard though...I dunno about that.

[feral prawn]

idk but if you want good insulation try XPS

[tiny bramble]

XPS is really good, but PIR is more compact for the same R value

Which one is cheaper seems to be a coin flip

[feral prawn]

but a little more fragile

[tiny bramble]

Definitely. I use it as backing for wood or acrylic panels to crank up the insulation.

[feral prawn]

we use XPS to insulate houses here

[tiny bramble]

We do both. XPS is more common in Texas where it's hot. I think they use PIR more up north.

It's also used where you have thin walls

[feral prawn]

I have also seen mineral wool being used in the US

[tiny bramble]

That seems smart

[feral prawn]

here we use it more for ceilings

I actually added a layer on my roof and seems to make a big difference

[tiny bramble]

Ohhh, thaaaat is what you mean by mineral wool. We call it fiberglass batting.

[feral prawn]

there are 2 types the glass one and the other that you might know as rock wool

[tiny bramble]

Interesting. Never heard of rock wool. We do a lot of batting in walls, then blown insulating in attics.

[potent stone]

wow, it must be an EU thing than, you can see racks full of rock wool (with the rockwool brand logo) in every diy store

[tiny bramble]

Apparently it's common and sold at hardware stores here. I've just never happened across it before.

[potent stone]

maybe because in Texas (safe exceptionally sudden freeze) you don’t have to worry to keep your house warm, worse case scenario you get outside, drill a hole in your garden and get some petrol to warm up the house

[tiny bramble]

Drill a hole? Dude, you don't randomly drill holes in the ground for oil here? My god, you go the oil derrick like a damned human!

It's five feet away!

[potent stone]

sorry I was joking 😂

[tiny bramble]

lol, omg, I am too 🤣

[potent stone]

but you see.. You actually know how much to drill to get it!!!!

[tiny bramble]

They don't drill oil in the area I live in much.

Go about an hour west, though...it could be true.

[potent stone]

There is a said that a ministry from Denmark, while drunk, gave away part of the see with some islands to Norway… where they found petrol all over the place right after 😂… we have some gas here, but you really have to look for it under the icing cold northern sea

[tiny bramble]

There are some interesting phenomenon behind why it's so cold. I need to re-read about it. Part of it is ocean circulation.

We laugh that Russia sold Alaska to the U.S. for $2 million.

Alaska celebrates "Seward's Day" after the Secretary of State that pushed the purchase

[potent stone]

it’s actually warmer that it should be, thanks to the Mexico Gulf current. we would be all covered i. ice here if it wasn’t for that

[tiny bramble]

Isn't there a North Sea current loop, too?

[potent stone]

imagine if Alaska was USSR during the cold war 🤦‍♂️

[tiny bramble]

Oh, eww

Allergies are crushing me atm. Ugh.

[potent stone]

sorry to hear that. pollen?

[tiny bramble]

Yep

It's that time of year for Oak trees here.

(not my photo, but I've seen similar)

[potent stone]

there is a company I visit here that makes pills for allergies… their principles is to concentrate the things you are allergic with so you take extra dose of it until you are no longer allergic… like the have a dust mites farm in the basement

[tiny bramble]

I get injections for that. I had no idea pills were a way to do it.

[potent stone]

maybe injection are better for pollen, weird complicated immune system we have

[tiny bramble]

It might also just be an insurance thing. From what my allergist's office has told me, they make the serum on site. That's maybe cheaper or more convenient than sending it off to be made as a pill.

Buuuut I dunno.

[potent stone]

imagine if you could see the pollen molecules and your immune system cell compatibility complex in cad, you would see how “lucky” you are that the pollen molecule fits the complex pocket, and you have an immune reaction… hopefully there will be better remedies that the serums/extract we have right now

[tiny bramble]

Yeah, the immune system is so incredibly complicated and fascinating

[feral prawn]

yeah I have seen that method for severe peanut allergy for example

[tiny bramble]

It might be safer for ones that cause severe reactions, too

Smaller doses possible

Buuuut I dunno.

[feral prawn]

yep it starts with micro doses

it was a documentary or something, there was a girl that almost died in an airplane because someone opened a package of peanuts in the back of the plane and she was like in the middle or something, very severe stuff

[tiny bramble]

Tree nut allergies and shellfish are super severe

[feral prawn]

then with that kind of treat treatment, while she couldn't eat them at least the dust wasn't a problem

but that shit impressed me, just some specks of dust that flew to her

[tiny bramble]

I've got bad allergies, but I can't imagine that kind of sensitivity.

[tiny bramble]

I really can't figure out this lead screw issue.

I've lubricated it again, cleaned and lubricated, loosened the nut a bit, adjusted the tightness of the Z joints...

[feral prawn]

what's the issue

[tiny bramble]

Squealing. Like it's not lubricated

[feral prawn]

had that issue with silicone lubricant

the spray kind

[tiny bramble]

😕

Gonna wait a bit, then try applying it while it's moving to and force it in place, maybe

[potent stone]

I had a very bad squealing until I’ve loosened all the rails holding the leadscrews, I aligned them “perfectly” with their respective extrusion but apparently they needed some small self adjusting so the screws could all spin smoothly along all z travel

[tiny bramble]

Sweet. I'll try that next. Thank you!

[tiny bramble]

Sigh. Time to put my big boy shorts on and try to fix this Z axis.

[tiny bramble]

I think @potent stone 's advice helped, but it's not solved. I've ordered POM nuts to see if that does it.

I've never had lead screws do this and not be able to resolve it. This is rather not fun.

[tiny bramble]

Almost resolved. I think I didn't have both sides of the leadscrew nut lubricated.

[tiny bramble]

Printing 😄

[tiny bramble]

Still printing. Looking sharp.

[feral prawn]

now all you're missing is a serial

[tiny bramble]

And some panels...

[feral prawn]

panels don't count for merc 😆

[tiny bramble]

Also the BLTouch is still broken. 🤣

If I get my serial, I'll wait until it's closed up and done done.

It may be a four digit number by then, but...

[potent stone]

🫢 (klicky)🤭

[tiny bramble]

Already wired up for Beacon 🤘

[feral prawn]

or a final one instead of a beta

[potent stone]

it will be not be after mine for sure than

[tiny bramble]

Yours almost done?

[potent stone]

yeah I know, that’s why I didn’t said it

didn’t say it… ? hmm whatever

[tiny bramble]

Ohhhh, the hands were like you almost saying it then covering your mouth?

[potent stone]

I was also coughing but there isn’t a good emoji for that

[tiny bramble]

Y'all are so hip to he new emoji vocabulary. I do 🤘 and a rotating, tiny list of smilies.

[potent stone]

hopefully that’s a matter of deciding if 1.1.5 is still beta or not

[tiny bramble]

I might reprint when I do the panels.

[potent stone]

I use the punctuation 90% of the time I have to emoji something :-]

[tiny bramble]

Are we both old farts?!

[potent stone]

yep

[tiny bramble]

https://tenor.com/view/dancing-cat-gif-24196276

[potent stone]

I think if I find some 2020 extrusion in the local marketplace I’ll build a tiny/regular merc with the old ender 5 bed and the 3 axis mod. or maybe use your 2 axis system. For small extrusion the 2 small 2020 that came with the back leadscrew assembly might work

I just found an ad where they sold an hypercube frame for 80€ 😩

[tiny bramble]

I've gotten to thinking about those extrusions and the stock build plate. Maybe if I got holes punched in the plate?

[tiny bramble]

Isn't that 4040?

[potent stone]

yes, but it would have worked… I guess even better

[tiny bramble]

Agreed. I just wasn't for certain.

[potent stone]

jezz, 80€ was frame and 3 linear rails!!

[tiny bramble]

YOW

[potent stone]

no wonder they sold in a millisecond

[tiny bramble]

right?!

Not a bad print...70mm/s

Z wobble is definitely visible, but the picture makes it stand out more.

[potent stone]

do you think it’s a z artefacts the lines on the print?

[tiny bramble]

Definitely. They're regular bands.

[potent stone]

also clearer filaments are more unforgiving

have you considered any integrating the wobble x thing?

[tiny bramble]

I was looking at that again today!

It's still open in a tab.

But it's also more $$ and design and testing.

[potent stone]

alternatively you could give a shot to oldham couplers, the might be expensive but there are maybe cheaper deals in ali

and I’ve heard of printed version of the wobble x that works well

with oldham you don’t have to redesign, I think

[tiny bramble]

Hrm...I'll keep the Oldham in mind. And the Wobble X.

[potent stone]

tbh I have oldham, I have no idea if they solve any issue

[ruby needle]

I’m using the printed ones from the Vzbot GitHub by more than 300 hr, and they have solved my z wobble problems, I lubricate them with spray ptfe grease and they are holding very well

[feral prawn]

link for those pls

[ruby needle]

https://github.com/VzBoT3D/VzBoT-Vz330/tree/master/Assemblies BOM and STL/Bed Assembly/STLs

You need one middle and two top/bott

[feral prawn]

@ruby needle mind sharing a pic of it in place?

[ruby needle]

I’m not at home till the weekend, let me check if I have a pic where they can be see

[feral prawn]

it's enough to see where they fit

[potent stone]

nice!! they are exactly like the one I got, I had 3 for 40€ on ali last year… It wasn’t too expansive and since I always had problems with wobbly screws I gave them a try. I’m using them with hydra, I should probably lubricate them as well 🤦‍♂️

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/1044248147473481828/1061019174006161488/IMG_8100.mov

[ruby needle]

I’ve printed mines to try and eventually buy metal ones, but since they are working good, I ended up keeping them lol

[tiny bramble]

Status

1. TPU panel gaskets: about ready to start
2. Filtration: planning
3. Service lights: not started
4. Door latches: not started, will adapt existing design
5. Panels: Ready but paused for possible changes.
6. Camera: Pending
7. Bonus: Top hatch needs some adjustment

[tiny bramble]

I put 3mm/18" foam gaskets in. Seems okay, but I'm still going to try TPU versions when I do the rest of the TPU work.

[tiny bramble]

Working on documentation today. May venture into the TPU gasket realm if I get frisky, though.

[tiny bramble]

...two days later...

It's on, I just haven't printed. The E34M1 docs kinda sucked up my week. But:

• Button head screws are finally in.
• POM lead screw nuts also showed up yesterday evening.

[tiny bramble]

This Z axis is rock solid.

[tiny bramble]

So. The belts are rubbing badly.

About to start printing new parts, I guess

Made some tensioner adjustments so that they use shims, too.

[feral prawn]

isn't that added as well on latest?

[tiny bramble]

yeah. I'm printing 1.1.5 stepper mounts right now. If one belt is rubbing, I'm sure they all are.

[short cove]

Are these available anywhere? This would fix a problem I ran into.

[tiny bramble]

Are you looking for tensioners with added shims or these one specifically?

[short cove]

I’m needing a tensioner with a fixed case so it doesn’t move on the extrusion, however I want it to bolt onto a 2040 extrusion so might actually make my own.

[tiny bramble]

Let me know if you want the STEP of the tensioners. You can make a different base and keep the inner tensioner.

[short cove]

Cheers, will look at it tomorrow after work.

[tiny bramble]

I think after I finish the stepper towers I'll load ASA and reprint the XY joints with 1.1.5. Maybe go ahead and do the Beacon duct and rear while the ASA is in.

Otherwise I have all the blue parts done, so I don't need blue filament loaded. Might as well make that switch and swap it all at once.

[tiny bramble]

ASA is in, XY joints are printing.

[tiny bramble]

Printing the last of the ASA now. That printer's been giving me trouble and I finally got it sorted.

[tiny bramble]

Gonna be out of town until 4/23. I plan on assembling 1.1.5 when I get back.

[tiny bramble]

I'm back and waking up. Time to figure out WTF is happening with these belts.

[short cove]

These came out nice, modded them to my needs. Have tomorrow off so will start on the rebuild. Then I can start on the dripped AB motors

[tiny bramble]

Oh cool. Second screw hole?

[short cove]

Moved the one that was there and second on to screw onto 2040

[tiny bramble]

That's a good idea. Better than my one. Might do that now...

[short cove]

im redoing my whole frame

[tiny bramble]

I wish I could. I've found so many QC issues...

I had to remove a tapped bracket to square the frame. Tapped bracket literally pulling it out of square.

[short cove]

yea thats half why im doing it, going to blind joints all round

[tiny bramble]

I like blind joints, but I love counterbores more, heh.

[short cove]

its longer but makes room for motors in the back

oh yea will need to drop the z parts down to the bottom too, they are too high there

[tiny bramble]

If you're going all custom, may I suggest using 4040 extrusions for the corners and a 4020 crossbars all around? It'll cost a bit more but give you a lot more rigidity.

[short cove]

This is all using the stock frame at the moment. When I’ve got it together I might trim the top 4020 straight so I can get two fixings in there.

[potent stone]

that’s was what partially fixed my squareness issue I removed the front left and rear right brackets. keep the top frame squared (like with a judo move) and fasten with t-nut brackets. I got it better squared by 1mm or maybemore. to do it properly I also loosen up some of the brackets on the vertical extrusions, So I might have squared on top and un-squared (more) the sides… but hey it seems to run better now

[tiny bramble]

I think it was the fact that you had that issue that made me try to take the brackets off, actually. I probably would not have known otherwise.

[potent stone]

sorry wrote on my phone with sun on the eyes 😂

[potent stone]

thank you creality

I wonder if they improved on this, eg is the 5S1 frame squared?

[tiny bramble]

lol, doubtful

[tiny bramble]

I just can't see them learning and doing something new. They really haven't done that well before.

[tiny bramble]

Added the last of the outside corner brackets or whatever those fat triangle plates are called. I also got rid of the socket head screws, finally!

[tiny bramble]

#1041406799342997544 message : "Both my tensioner and EVA 3 are based on a CAD model I made of Merc One.1. If that's off, both the tensioner and EVA 3 will be off by the same amount. I can figure that amount out by looking at the depth of the belt wear."

Which means I can fix the tensioners pretty easily.

[tiny bramble]

Spent the morning fixing up E34M1's belt angle issue, but I also:

• Tested new tensioners that are slightly lower, since they share the same z-height for the belts as E34M1.
• Now printing another iteration that has the final, correct z-height.
• Swapped all other Merc parts for 1.1.5
• Also have a new mount for the BLTouch to test.

[tiny bramble]

And I forgot to print the new tensioner base. GRR.

[tiny bramble]

Anybody else reuse their heat set inserts from discarded parts?

[potent stone]

obviously

😛

that’s how we get rich

[feral prawn]

yes and no

yes because thats what i plan on doing but didnt yet as I'm still waiting to need them

until then I save the parts

(unless theyre broken)

[tiny bramble]

@potent stone @feral prawn if y'all have the bits for it, a heat set insert press is super cheap to DIY build and soooo handy.

You can see the power switch for mine in the top of the pic. The wood block is the base.

[potent stone]

I only the extrusion leftover from the ender 5 gantry and the 2 small supporting the original z with cantilever bed (one of which I plan of reuse for a 5 colors multi-metrial unit)

[tiny bramble]

I think with a tall extrusion like the x axis you could do that.

[potent stone]

can you share some bom (I might not have the space for it though 😅)

[tiny bramble]

in short:

• two gantry plates for v rollers (your old X axis gantry will do)
• v rollers
• GT2 belt loop for between the gantries
• something to act as an idler at the top (like the bearings from your old E5 Y axis)
• printed parts to hold them in place
• a soldering iron
  optionally:
• a power switch
• an indicator light
• a spare power cord you can cut to run from the switch to the wall

I had a bunch of openbuilds plates left over from something else, so mine is a little extravagant with aluminum and stuff.

Looks like that

[potent stone]

ok, that’t doable. and can you set the stopping point? I mean, there a 2 critical points on setting the heat insert, one is going down straight , the other is to set the insert to be flush on the hole (slightly in might be ok…)

[tiny bramble]

yep! Just use a screw stuck in an tee nut

[potent stone]

of course 🤦‍♂️

[tiny bramble]

But with this I find I actually don't need the stopper. Add a stepper motor to the back side as a counterweight

[potent stone]

huu, I have linear rails leftover.. key, maybe it’s a bit overkill, better to reuse the rollers from creality

[tiny bramble]

save your rails. They are more valuable. This is brute up-down.

Like, I spent $5 on the iron. I spent more on the indicator light than anything else, actually. 😆

[potent stone]

I have all that’s needed it seems :). and do you have proper points for the iron, or you do like me and press hard an heat insert in the iron to prevents binding the ones you want to melt in?

[tiny bramble]

points? like the insert tips?

[potent stone]

yes

[tiny bramble]

Yep. I just leave the M3 on.

I haven't used the others.

[feral prawn]

I don't been using the TS100 stock tip

[tiny bramble]

Oh yeah, I spent another $11 on the tips. Forgot that.

💸

[potent stone]

wow, that’t a lot, that little tip is worth more than the rest of the pieces together

[feral prawn]

yeah I know have veen looking at the tips

but they dont fit the ts100

[tiny bramble]

i updated this to mention you need a power cord to sacrifice.

[feral prawn]

and I like it for the temperature control

[potent stone]

so how do you prevent the insert to came out once inserted?

[feral prawn]

doesn't get stuck

plain and simple

[tiny bramble]

https://tenor.com/view/boy-meets-world-dundundun-gif-7420957

[potent stone]

nice, it’s a big tips than 😜

[feral prawn]

for PLA I run it at 210 220

for petg 230 240

ABS 300 😅

[tiny bramble]

I never change from 200. I prefer to make inserting require more than a second to make sure that it's not crooked.

[feral prawn]

pretty much follow printing temp except for ABS because I couldn't bother finsing a better one

I just eyeball it

[potent stone]

I only insert on asa so far

[feral prawn]

from above the glasses

[potent stone]

at 260

[tiny bramble]

I think I'm super fussy about my inserts then, lol.

[feral prawn]

I have an old and cheap iron but no temp control

so I use the ts100, if I ever get a proper tip I'll pay to get a sleeve to fit over a ts100 tip made out of brass

but then that's not cheap

[tiny bramble]

that doesn't sound cheap, no

You'd save money getting a cheap soldering iron with temp control and tips

[feral prawn]

first step is find who can make it

ts100 runs of battery

and I love it

[tiny bramble]

lol, that's fair then

[potent stone]

I just press hard to stuck a inset on the tip when it’s cold, heatup it will stuck even more, and than there is no way another insert will ever bind there, oriented upside down it’s even perfect to fit in the insert, pushing well, without binding

[feral prawn]

ah, I fit mine cold on the hole and just press with the iron

without binding anything

[tiny bramble]

Oh. Yeah. Today did not start well. Reprinted instead of printed a new version. Dammit.

[tiny bramble]

Back up and running. Printing TPU on the Dragon for the first time.

[short cove]

I need to redo those tension towers in fusion, mine are pulling out the bottom since the screw is at the top. Don’t know if you ran into that.

[tiny bramble]

Too much gap between the towers and the holders, maybe?

Though I haven't run into that, no. So not exactly sure yet what's up.

[tiny bramble]

I think I'm on to something with air filtration.

I have an existing filtration solution, but it's way too large and wasteful of material.

[tiny bramble]

Outer shell; outer shell removed to show HEPA filter; HEPA removed to show AC tank.

Gotta blow larger holes in the bottom, possibly graduate the outside of the tank, and design a fan intake. 😄

[feral prawn]

fancy

how will you mount fan or whatever to move the air

[tiny bramble]

Working on that part, since the fan will be underneath. I think I have it figured out, though.

This is a modification of something else, which is why it looks all fancy and finished.

Do i really want to get M4 heat set inserts? (Edit: answer is no)

[feral prawn]

hell no

[tiny bramble]

New design. I need this 80mm wide on one axis, so I redesigned around the HEPA 40mm exhaust hole and fan's 50mm intake hole. The filter's are trays that screw together. Fill with AC, screw in place. Still need to design a fan shroud and the top cover.

[tiny bramble]

Ooooh this is looking nice.

[tiny bramble]

20x inserts, 20x M3 x 6mm screws. And two M4 for mounting the fan.

[tiny bramble]

It's slightly under 100mm W, 75mm D, and 122mm H. Not too bad.

[potent stone]

is the fan a normal 5015?

[tiny bramble]

7030

[potent stone]

aye, makes sense 😛

[tiny bramble]

Whatever airflow I'm planning, it'll be about a third or less of the design after the going through the HEPA and AC.

[potent stone]

that looks more efficient than a nevermore

[tiny bramble]

The plan is that I can replace the cap on the bottom with a second fan for chamber cooling.

Hoping that's not needed, though

[potent stone]

snd the hepa is from a vacuum cleaner commercially available, or something like it?

[tiny bramble]

Yep. Comes in a five pack, or even eight packs. I think it's for a honeywell or kenmore, maybe.

[potent stone]

I wonder how many hours the hepa filter works before being expired

[tiny bramble]

6 months, approximately. 3 months in a high-load environment.

AC depends on how much you have (more = more efficient & lasts longer but less airflow)

[potent stone]

yes, but that it’s not in a environment heavily filled with toxic fumes

[tiny bramble]

true. continuous printing is going to degrade it more quickly

I was wrong. It's a HEPA compatible with the "MOOSOO D600".

[potent stone]

nice!

I’m going to test that once I sort my other build issues 😅. I have a nevermore, bur I don’t feel it can cleanup much on its own

[tiny bramble]

Is it a micro or max?

[tiny bramble]

The tray is too shallow. Thankfully, I have room and the depth is variable.

[potent stone]

a micro v5 duo

this looks cool https://github.com/nevermore3d/StealthMax

essentially thou, it’s the same-functionality filter that you are planning. your design looks much easier to print

[tiny bramble]

Yeah, I wanted simple and the only space constraint was one axis. Plus I'd already done the research on what HEPA I planned to use.

[feral prawn]

it might last you more than 6 months

depending on material

[tiny bramble]

First print looks good, but doesn't quite fit (slightly short). I'll get pics in a bit.

[cedar depot]

Might have to check out that nevermore

@tiny bramble Did a 1st print last night turned out pretty good with EVA 3. And cr touch need some fine tuning on my end.

[tiny bramble]

Nevermore is definitely the off-the-shelf solution if you're in need.

[tiny bramble]

Nice! Is the CR Touch mount the issue or the CR Touch itself?

[cedar depot]

Just z offset

the mount is fine

[tiny bramble]

Made some tweaks to the HEPA filter cap. About to print it again.

[tiny bramble]

TPU was a fail, but I had way too much reverse bowden. Going to try it again another time with some kinda open feed setup.

[cedar depot]

Nice I'd be curious on the nevermore

I have 3 large bags of non acid carbon.

Was going to print the max version but parts hard to get

And takes too much space

[tiny bramble]

All you need for this filter I'm designing are 20x inserts, 20x M3 x 6mm screws, one fan, carbon, and the HEPA filter, FWIW

My first 3D printed designs were AC filters for soldering. This is my third 3D printer filter design. I like filtration. 🙂

[cedar depot]

Nice

I have all that

Except the hpa filter

Hepa

[tiny bramble]

They're like $1.50 apiece on Amazon. Repurposed vacuum cleaner filters.

Note: the fan is a 75x30mm blower.

[cedar depot]

Don't have that ...have to order one

75x30

[cedar depot]

Just ordered one

[tiny bramble]

Print just finished. About to put the inserts in

[cedar depot]

Nice show a pic

When you get a chance of course

[tiny bramble]

@cedar depot

[cedar depot]

Very cool

Like it I'll have to print that tonight

Does it have a frame holder ?

[tiny bramble]

It works now, but I have some improvements in mind. Can you give me a day or two to make sure it's right?

Frame holder?

[cedar depot]

Attach it to the 2020 frame

[tiny bramble]

It will now, LOL

[cedar depot]

Lol sorry gave you a ideal

[tiny bramble]

I was going to set it on the floor, but most folks will wanna attach it, yeah

Don't apologize for good ideas, my dude

[cedar depot]

Ok cool I will wait

[tiny bramble]

I've got one more filter finishing up for the other side and I can test it out

[cedar depot]

I installed a ptc fan/ heater

[tiny bramble]

Thermal cutoff?

[cedar depot]

24volt/400 watt

50c

[tiny bramble]

Thanks for installing that. Don't wanna lose you. 🔥

[cedar depot]

Me ?

[tiny bramble]

Fire is bad. It's hot. Thermal cutoffs are good. 🙂

[cedar depot]

Yep of course

Also put in a micro smoke detector

[tiny bramble]

That's a really good idea. I've looked at AFO balls.

[cedar depot]

Yea

[tiny bramble]

Now...where do I attach this to an extrusion?

I'm thinking I'll use the cap, since it's meant to be changed out

[cedar depot]

Ok

[tiny bramble]

Dang that's a huge filter.

[cedar depot]

Yep

Project I started on

Covers the whole top of tent

Only have the smoke detector part

Finished

[tiny bramble]

First attempt at extrusion mount. Added arrows to orient during assembly and an UP label for the filter.

Gotta jet for a bit.

Note to self: you need two M4 x 35mm screws for the fan. See if M3 with washers will work.

[potent stone]

maybe you can just add heat inserts at the bottom, and the “frame holder” could attach there as an adds-on. like this you can make multiple orientations for the frame holders (I only think of left or right, or none. but who knows)

wait, is the bottom closed, right? it would be nice to see it mounted on in the cad with the enclosure 😅… we are so lucky to have you here. Great work!

[cedar depot]

Awesome

[tiny bramble]

Ooooh, that's a very good idea. Thanks!

M3 x 35 will work; I realized I've done it before with these fans.

I've got the filter installed in an enclosure. I'm going to get that one going with stinky filament and test it.

Lastly, I'm about to heat up the other enclosure to reprint this using M3 inserts for the fan instead of M4 screws.

Installed. Airflow is great.

[tiny bramble]

Second one is printing (and so is my second merc).

[cedar depot]

Nice

Inserts would be awesome. I need order some more of them

Looks good too

A tube or guide to hide wiring ?

[tiny bramble]

Nothing like that as yet. Could maybe add a zip tie anchor to the cap?

[cedar depot]

True

[cedar depot]

time to print something small beacon screw caps covers

[tiny bramble]

I really wanna get a beacon now.

[cedar depot]

yea

Almost like the filament is wavy

Think I need to squash it more

[tiny bramble]

Are those caps not okay?

[cedar depot]

Im trying to get the 1st layer correc t

[tiny bramble]

ahhh

[cedar depot]

@tiny bramble I think im going to scrap the ender 5 frame and start over with a trident frame ....this printer is junk

[tiny bramble]

Wuh oh!

What happened?

[cedar depot]

Pulled X extrusion off and it's not flat.

[tiny bramble]

I found that at least one hole for the stock corner brackets is mis-drilled and was pulling my frame out of square. Fixed it by re-installing with a tee nut instead. Maybe try salvaging by disassembling, checking squareness, tossing what's bad, and saving the rest, perhaps?

[cedar depot]

It's a creality frame too boot so better to get a rigid frame that is probably straighter anyway

Probaly will be awhile before printing again.

[tiny bramble]

Bed temp bumped 5 degrees is pushing my enclosure up to 52C, which is the trigger point for my exhaust. Right now I'm still using the exhaust fan from the old filter.

In short, I need to make sure I have a dual fan solution for this new filter sooner rather than later, with the second fan as the exhaust fan.

[shadow spoke]

Wait... is this a thing? To be able to use a trident frame to replace the stock frame?

[cedar depot]

I'm researching it now to verify

But don't see why not. There are trident frames out

Ldo makes one

[shadow spoke]

If the frames are close enough... there is a vendor that sells "b-stock" frame kits for the trident super cheap. And that might be worth going for the 250 size b-stock, in my case. But they do go up to the 350 size

[cedar depot]

I need a 350mm

[shadow spoke]

https://www.tensor3d.com/products/b-stock-frame-kits

[cedar depot]

I think I'll wait on fabreeko they are making a frame with hydra kit

[shadow spoke]

Good to know.... was not aware.

[cedar depot]

Might be awhile before they really it

Release it

So printer will be down for awhile

[tiny bramble]

new cap version mounts another fan. Add a stand to cover the screws and it's 160mm tall.

[cedar depot]

Nice

I'll down it from you but unable to print for awhile

Like the design

[tiny bramble]

Thanks. Are you sure you can't get a new X axis extrusion cut and at least get going until you can buy a trident frame?

[cedar depot]

I'm glad that I ordered 2 fans

[tiny bramble]

With that PTC you'll definitely want an exhaust for your enclosure

[cedar depot]

Yep

Side frame is not 100% straight from creality. I didn't realize it. Layed it flat and there is a slight bow in the front left

[tiny bramble]

Ah. Not just the X extrusion. Well damn.

[cedar depot]

No wonder I have had so much bed Leveling issues

[tiny bramble]

Definitely

[cedar depot]

Laid it on a glass table. Did the paper test . Paper slide right under the extrusion

Right side flat as the glass

So in that point I'll take off all the parts ..chuck the frame and wait fabreeko hydra/corexy frame kit to be released and start over

[short cove]

Tension towers won’t sit properly or you will lose a bit of Y area at the front, but could be worth the trade off. Also tension towers will need a hole drilled for the tension screw to go thru the frame into them. The rear bar will need to be pulled forward so the steppers can sit on both extrusions. It is do-able but would make for a lot of frame size for less bed size. But making a frame in the same way but with different extrusions like 2040’s in parts could work. There is a cad program that does just t slot extrusions and can give you a bom, people use it for sim rigs.

[cedar depot]

Thanks but I think I'll just wait have had trouble leveling since day 1 of the creality bed/frame. I'll just wait. Who knows how long before it gets released

[short cove]

Yea I changed my frame to all blind joints and cut my 2040’s from notched to straight. My frame size is now different to stock by 20mm (bigger) in the Y and I lost 40mm in z but being a plus I won’t miss it. This was to stiffen the frame but also to drop the steppers and encase them out of the chamber.

[cedar depot]

Gotcha.

[tiny bramble]

First dual filter is almost done. Printing the second second AC filter and then the base.

Meanwhile, the stepper towers are done for the new Merc.

[cedar depot]

Nice

I'm still on 1.1.4

[tiny bramble]

Gotta wake up here. The double filter is ready for install.

But maybe another cup of coffee first.

[tiny bramble]

Double filter installed, but the exhaust hose I'm using doesn't want to bend that way. Still, it seems okay.

About to go back and retrofit the first one I printed with a second fan.

[tiny bramble]

Status of this project

Not too much is happening here now that 1) the filter is done and 2) I'm about to build a second Merc.

Outstanding issues to resolve:

• Lid slightly too long
• Fix assembly issues with rear panel; requires some redesign
• Filtration wiring missing
• TPU seals (TPU printing issues ATM)
• Install remaining foam gasketing
• Clean up wiring in back

Once the above is done I will be ready to order the exterior panels, I believe.

[cedar depot]

Nice. Got the zero g reframed. Squared up and printed the new 1.1.5 towers

[tiny bramble]

Awesome! Gonna give it a go again?

[cedar depot]

Yep

[tiny bramble]

Good; a janky printer is better than none. 😉

[cedar depot]

Re doing the motion towers to the new ones

Got another ender 5 plus frame

[tiny bramble]

Buy one used?

[cedar depot]

Yes

And it was straight

[tiny bramble]

Nice. I should get a used plus!

...That's dangerous talk, Jon.

[cedar depot]

Got lucky found one local for dirt cheap

[tiny bramble]

Mind if I ask how much?

[cedar depot]

50 for the frame

[tiny bramble]

omfg

That's fantastic

[cedar depot]

Nothing but frame

No motors etc was all stripped

[tiny bramble]

Yeah, but getting that new from Misumi would be like $200 or more.

[cedar depot]

Still together. I took a chance on it

Oh I'm aware

That's why I was looking for a used one

Had to square it up

I can get a voron frame for 100 brand new

Will be working on the voron this week or next

[tiny bramble]

Wait, really?

Where?

[cedar depot]

@tiny bramble microcenter

Look up voron ..they 350mm frames

[tiny bramble]

Oh shit.

No trident, though... 😦

[cedar depot]

No 2.4r2

Ldo has trident 129

If I remember right

[tiny bramble]

That's not bad at all. MicroCenter is nice cuz no shipping, though.

Wonder how much it is for LDO

[cedar depot]

Yep

Looking now

What size you need

[tiny bramble]

Uh, 300 is probably right

[cedar depot]

West3d 140

[tiny bramble]

That's going in my back pocket for future reference.

[cedar depot]

Kd3d 300 frame 135

[tiny bramble]

I really like KB-3D for some reason. Their group buys are cool.

[cedar depot]

Ldo motor frame kit

Yea they aren't too far from me drove to there warehouse last week

[tiny bramble]

Oh cool! If you talk to them tell them they kick ass.

[cedar depot]

I have talked to them before

[tiny bramble]

Oh FFS. Found out why one of my ABS printers was "drifting" on the Z axis. Screw was loose for the Z endstop. Every time it homes, it slightly moved the switch to the side. Long enough and it started added a reasonable amount of deflection.

[cedar depot]

Oh

Loctite

[tiny bramble]

lock washer will do it without eating the plastic 🙂

[feral prawn]

now that you mention locktite need to add some to mine

the vibrations of the frame are getting crazy

[cedar depot]

I put blue loctite on almost everything

[tiny bramble]

PSA: I am selling two Raspberry Pis in the marketplace along with some other stuff.

Please buy them. I want to buy some linear rails.

[cedar depot]

I have 5 pi 4s

[tiny bramble]

Want a sixth, lol?

[cedar depot]

No need

[tiny bramble]

j/k man

Doesn't sound like it if you've got five, hehe

[cedar depot]

Got them all at mrsp

[tiny bramble]

nice! I paid $75 for one, but otherwise same.

[cedar depot]

1 for each printer/one for pihole/one home automation/spare

The 1.1.5 towers printed awesome

[tiny bramble]

Nice. I'm using some part fan now and it's really helping my ABS prints.

[cedar depot]

Cool

[cedar depot]

I don't use any part cooling with asa/abs

[tiny bramble]

I didn't until my chamber temps got up there. Saw it recommended a lot for when the temps are over 45C.

[feral prawn]

I only have an original pi

sucks for anything might just frame it

[tiny bramble]

lol

"Slice of Pi"

Mount it on your wall and call it modern art.

[feral prawn]

better than a banana taped to the wall

[tiny bramble]

What good is a measuring device taped to a wall?

[cedar depot]

I have pi 4 mounted on wall and cable managed

[tiny bramble]

Does it say "Slice of Pi" underneath?

That adds to the comedic value, I think. 🙂

[cedar depot]

Nope but I was thinking of a zero g sign

[tiny bramble]

So what do I call this air filter?

[feral prawn]

show a picture

hepa+carbon?

[tiny bramble]

Yep. HEPA and AC. This is the solo filter. I have dual now.

[tiny bramble]

Here's the dual. The exhaust thing is TPU and needs to be replaced with PETG or ABS to keep a hold on it.

[feral prawn]

BioHazard Defense Mode

[tiny bramble]

Automated Death Stink Removal System

Better Than Cancer

[feral prawn]

PDPS

Premature Death Prevention System

[tiny bramble]

Styrene Sponge

[feral prawn]

MAGFS

Maybe A Good Air Filtration System - MAGAFS

ehhh bad idea

[tiny bramble]

Ehhh yeah

[feral prawn]

sorry US has the whole MAGA thing

Euroguy issues

[tiny bramble]

LOL, everywhere has crazies. I just happen to live near some of the craziest.

Skunk Catcher

SkunkBuster with a Ghostbuster theme

[feral prawn]

MAFAGAFO - Mega Air Filtration And Good Air Filter (need something for O)

you need this to get the joke https://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mafagafo

and google translate

imaginary species

[tiny bramble]

lol, and a tongue twister, too

Dang. I got zero. I'm usually quick with these.

Stinker Shrinker is my favorite. That's a portable AC filter I made.

[cedar depot]

Lol

Stinker shrinker

[tiny bramble]

I mean, I could steal the name Stinker Shrinker

I never published that other filter.

[cedar depot]

Link for stl ?

[tiny bramble]

For the new one?

[cedar depot]

Or not done yet

[tiny bramble]

Allllmost done. I'll make a github tomorrow.

[cedar depot]

What's the new one look like

Ok cool

[tiny bramble]

Not a good pic

It's about 100mm tall, plus two 30mm fans. Comes out just over 6.25" tall.

I need to work on that exhaust coupler next. I printed it from TPU and it doesn't hold well.

[feral prawn]

BioSupressor?

got it, AntiVOC

[tiny bramble]

It's good in the business sense, but not catchy

Stinker Shrinker is a little too jokey though

[feral prawn]

There's a joke in AntiVOC

reads like antivoke antipope

[tiny bramble]

lol

Automated Styrene Storage

[feral prawn]

ASS love it

[tiny bramble]

But more seriously, I'm thinking it doesn't have to be descriptive. Just catchy. Nevermore is a great example.

New Car Smell

Nah

Death Eater

[feral prawn]

I don't like nevermore tbh

call it dementor

aren't they called death eaters as well?

[potent stone]

dementor is great… they suck reason out of you right?

[tiny bramble]

dude, dementors show you your greatest fears. They're terrifying.

I am not naming it that, lol.

[feral prawn]

IDK not a potterhead

no greatest fear is not dementor

[tiny bramble]

Oh yeah, that's the thing that changes shape into your greatest fear, something else.

But they're still terrifying.

Death Eaters were (IIRC) Voldemort's troupe of bad guys

Hecking Good Filter

Simple Air Filtration for Everyone (SAFE)

Safe Air Filtration For Everyone if we wanna go recursive

[potent stone]

it looks like a penguin

[tiny bramble]

Here's a Fusion screenshot of it

missing the second filter in the pic, though

[feral prawn]

no dementors are not Voldemort guya

they literally use them as capital punishment

[tiny bramble]

I meant Death Eaters are the Voldemort guys

[potent stone]

so 2 penguins

I mean.. I like penguins 😅… I used gentoo for a decade, frikin cool penguins

[feral prawn]

I still use

3 computers with it

[tiny bramble]

Sorry, Amazon came. Got distracted.

[feral prawn]

BFF Big Fucking Filter

[tiny bramble]

lol

[feral prawn]

you can replace the middle word with many

[cedar depot]

Finally got some good prints

awesome

now to start printing the skirt for ender 5 pro

[tiny bramble]

Sweet! You were really close to giving up yesterday.

[tiny bramble]

Bolts for the new Merc are about a day out in the mail. Still need to order the linear rails, though. 😕

[tiny bramble]

Basically, I need to order my linear rails from Fabreeko, but I wanna order daylight on a matchstick (and get free shipping, too). Hence, I am waiting.

Oh yeah, and I gotta setup a repo for the as-yet-unnamed filter.

@cedar depot https://github.com/jon-harper/air_filter

No info yet. Just the files.

[potent stone]

heppy

[tiny bramble]

Is heppy HEPA happy?

[potent stone]

heppyfi

heppy-fi

[tiny bramble]

Ooooh, name ideas.

[potent stone]

just rambling

yeah 🤪

[tiny bramble]

E-Z Kleen! (jk)

Detox Box

Uncle Jon's Air Freshener

[potent stone]

squeaky clean air filter, SCAF

or squaf

[tiny bramble]

it's got a BOM now. Should be mostly right.

[feral prawn]

i like scaf

or Heppy HEPA

[tiny bramble]

Squeaks McClean

[feral prawn]

McClean reminds me too much of lightning McQueen (blame my kid)

Heppy McHEPAFace?

[cedar depot]

Stinker shrinker faceplate

[tiny bramble]

I do enjoy Stinker Shrinker as a name.

I also feel like Stinker Shrinker is better for the original thing I made with it, which de-odorizes your bathroom, etc.

Awful Burning Smell Filter = A.B.S. Filter

[feral prawn]

too specific

[tiny bramble]

fair

[feral prawn]

decided to ask chatgpt, terrible names:

FiltraPro
AirShield
CleanPrint
3D-Clean
HEPA-Print

[tiny bramble]

Eh, yeah

all just word mashups

I still, of course, welcome our coming AI Overlords who are, of course, already watching over us. looks around nervously

[feral prawn]

10 more, for once I am sure ChatGPT will not be our AI overlord, others maybe but not this one

PrintPure
CleanFlow
Filter3D
CarbonCatch
HEPA-Fresh
PrintShield
Filtratech
PurePrints
Air3D
CarbonCleanse

CarbonCleanse reminds me of other things

[tiny bramble]

Sounds like an Instagram influencer diet

[feral prawn]

hahaha exactly

where you eat activated carbon tablets

[tiny bramble]

and kale

[feral prawn]

kale is not that bad

[tiny bramble]

I don't like spinach, either. If I did, I know I would like kale.

But it's more popular in Europe than America, AIUI, so it's more of a joke here.

[feral prawn]

kale is good done on the oven to make it crispy

with some salt

[tiny bramble]

I've had kale chips and didn't dislike them

[feral prawn]

see?

[tiny bramble]

Lol, so it's also used VERY commonly as a decorative plant. That's kinda why it's a joke. You're eating the decorative plants at the restaurant.

(I will eat the kale outside as a joke, too)

Anyway, Kale Kleaner probably won't work.

And CarbonCleanse is out

I'm going to consult The Oracle.

[cedar depot]

Stinky Shrinky ...lol

[feral prawn]

Very Effective Particulate Remover - VEPR

just making shit up

[tiny bramble]

Summer Breeze: hot and refreshing

It moves hot, clean air around

I'm thinking of names that evoke what it does

[tiny bramble]

Prison for Plastic Particulates: PfPP

The Killer Airborne Plastic Purifier: Killer A.P.P.

The VOC Vacuum

VOCinator

PrinterVac

MiniVac

HEPAVac

VOCVac

[cedar depot]

@tiny bramble

[tiny bramble]

Niiiice

[cedar depot]

1.1.5

[tiny bramble]

I am having trouble deciding how best to mount the filter to an extrusion

[cedar depot]

Yea

[tiny bramble]

Erm. Maybe if it were under the Y axis

Lemme pull up a CAD

There

Alternative is down here.

[tiny bramble]

I like the bottom more. I also like the idea of putting it behind the Z axis on the 5 Pro.

[cedar depot]

Me too bottom is better

Also maybe on back of the extrusion

Incase you have a tall print hate to lose space

A bottom plate with attach heat sinks to

[tiny bramble]

Heat sinks?

[cedar depot]

Inserts I mean

Or would it be to tight to get screws I.

In

[tiny bramble]

The bottom plate you see is 5mm thick. Plenty enough for inserts

[cedar depot]

Ok

Looks good

@tiny bramble I need to get a program to read step files

[tiny bramble]

Fusion 360 is my go-to.

[cedar depot]

Ok

[tiny bramble]

I think OnShape is also free?

[potent stone]

if you don’t want the hassle of license, freeCAD reads everything

[cedar depot]

Ok

[tiny bramble]

Ooop. Have an idea about E34M1 documentation. I was going to work on the filter, but docs come first.

[vanishes]

[cedar depot]

Ok

[feral prawn]

for filter, bottom lowers the center of gravity as the printer is usually top heavy

[tiny bramble]

it's super light, to be fair

[feral prawn]

any weight lower is better

[tiny bramble]

True; just mentioning it's not too significant

I expect in most cases folks will have it set up on the floor of the enclosure. This will probably be best for LACK users and external enclosure folks.

i.e. me

[feral prawn]

external as in box outside of the printer

[tiny bramble]

yeah. box and printer not the same unit

[feral prawn]

like me as well then

[tiny bramble]

I sketched up a quick exhaust nozzle thing to couple the fan with the exhaust hose I have. About to print that and start working on fit a bit.

[tiny bramble]

It works. Printing a second one now. I'll get it up on GitHub and then head back to the E34M1 docs.

[tiny bramble]

Both printers have proper exhaust setups now. ✅

[tiny bramble]

Great.

MCU connection failure

Annnnnnd lost connection with can0. 😒

[feral prawn]

oh dear dont get me started on can

when I swapped my board I was going for direct can

no modules in the kernel

so I recompiled

loaded module and crashed the whole thing

[tiny bramble]

oh. that sounds awful.

[feral prawn]

took down the entire home server

thats what I get for running everything there

[potent stone]

I had to compile the kernel in the unofficial armbian for amlogic, it took me all day compiling (I just reused the config they have, so every module was on, insane…). switch to official Arabian for tinkerboar, can was on by default 😅

[feral prawn]

Gentoo here so...

[tiny bramble]

I will never willingly recompile a kernel.

willingly

but still

[feral prawn]

I do it on a weekly basis

first 10 times are the hard ones

(because you're tuning for HW)

[tiny bramble]

Weekly?

[feral prawn]

yup system update

[tiny bramble]

ahhh

[feral prawn]

well technically I have it all automated

[tiny bramble]

do you build it with clang or gcc?

[feral prawn]

no fkin idea

[tiny bramble]

lol, gcc then

[feral prawn]

just type make -j13

would need to check makefile, since the system as both for sure

[tiny bramble]

maaaan i really wish Fabreeko would get the matchstick lights back.

Sweet! My extrusion for the new Merc comes today.

[feral prawn]

Saturday?

I wish

[tiny bramble]

Wish what? Saturday deliveries?

[potent stone]

yeah, not such a thing here

[tiny bramble]

Crazy. UPS and FedEx even do Sunday deliveries, although the postal service does not.

[potent stone]

some curriers do Saturdays, so there is a remote chance to get a package Saturday -morning- but no way Sundays

[tiny bramble]

Labor laws/unions?

Or just cultural?

[potent stone]

cultural

[tiny bramble]

Interesting. Tbh, I can live without Saturday and Sunday delivery.

[feral prawn]

labor as well

since here at least one rest day a week is mandatory

[potent stone]

During Easter everything is close from Thursday to Monday here. the first year I didn’t know, we almost starved to death… let alone delivery

[feral prawn]

so ends up being aimpler for most businesses to close on sunday and Saturday as well