#Ender 5 Plus - Mercury 1 (Classic) with Stealth Burner and New Enclosure Project
1 messages · Page 11 of 1
used to be the same deal with amazon and newegg but the states got pissed and passed laws if they were a corporation they had to collect the tax
my CF asa spool broke pain
just print a spool
no not srespoolng
ssure
That bearing fit is 
future bottom support
Would have stayed in chat but got kid watching power rangers on full blast
Everything is fitting very nice. Thanks for the great work
incase the parts flex with wieght
they will be heat inserts
im glad it fit
cant wait to do the swap
Are you still doing trident bottom merc top on your type v?
Oh how many din rails did you fit in your type z?
with backpack 4
Nvm you used backpack
with hydra it will be 2 only
So two bottom two backpack?
You could do a fanny pack 😂
Have a small electronic enclosure up front. Give it some cool disco lights.
I dont know if im going to ise the 410x410 bed i got for free on this
lol
Still looking for build surfaces.
i got a honey badger, i kinda regret it now
Dang. Ok i really gotta find a build surface and a good heater thats this size
And figure out how to re do the drilled holes
Happen to know size of the mounting screws for hydra bed? Its like 4 mm with 8mm countersink half way down i think
@naive swan is there a klipper command to check part cooling fan I'm not able to get it too turn on
@vocal terrace
@vocal terrace
You made my credit card more fuller
you made me buy
LDO
GATES
is there a led indicator for the fan? if that’s turn on/off when you sent the gcode, it means you have a wires/connectors issue otherwise it might just be some bad config
No indicator on fan
Almost done
is this for the type V
Ldo gates isn't a sprc
Type Z
for the Long shafts?
ASA?
Polylite abs
so ive ordered some LDO motors
im using Mstarks mod for the bearing, do you think i should keep using that with the LDO?
If you are going s55 then the max power mod is the way to go
If using standard length shaft go for Mayhem’s mod
Or the new pocket version
@vocal terrace on the sb2240 do i need to junction NPN and set proximity voltage selection to 24v?
are u doing tap?
I didn't touych the sjunctions at all.
tghen don't touch it u connect to an endstop pin
all parts are prepped and ready
cell phone is downstairs
ill be back in about 1.5hrs
hopefully i can get hydra installed tonight
what rials
those are honey badger
all i needed to print was a 2040 rail alignment tool
@naive swan
Well this is a lot of work fml
Fuck I think my octopus pro is bricked
Bruh how
Looks fricken cool 😎
I had timer too close fault
That's canbus error
So I tried to add u2c
It's probably that something isn't being powered correctly check wires
When I was flashing the octopus back to standard klipper firmware. It has bricked
I’ve tried everything
Spend mabey 8 hours on this
F
Tried reinstalling boot loader the the STM32 loader
Can get a serial id from it
Btt 6 month warranty right?
Are u doing canbus for it?
Here's where u can hypothetically, return it to Amazon cause BTT are assholes
Will Amazon return it to Btt
No. But u can just hypothetically buy it from Amazon BTT then it will get returned.
What about manta? Is it worth upgrading. It looks as tho is has a better form can port
Meh if u got it u got it
Joining vengefuls sorrows
L
L
Some how the boot loader would not overwrite the can bridge I installed
F
Omg!!
?
It’s Alive
L
Lol shoulda stayed with it
I couldn’t even print tho
The time too close was only printing for about 2 mins
It happened every time for me
Back pack is off
F
Wait u call that cool but not my vzbot
Bigger motors better person
This will be my first canbus print
L
Ohh how comes
Hydra.....
Ohh yeah 😄
Ewww
I threw that one in for you
is the silicon heater self adhesive?
ah cool
U needa cut down those bed wores
Soldered wires shouldn't be used.
Wait those are ferrules rifht
wth are you talking about?
Look at the discord photo without opening web looks like soldered wires for bed
Not the fused ones
Quickly show ur feet. I mean those wires are showing slot they should be
Been playing around with the speeds
very nice
Had to restart with the pi. Somehow sd card failed. But got canbus going on pi. Waiting on more screws. Miscounted. Gotta install psu and wires.
Have to redo my din rails
good news is the backpack rails are the perfect size
the ones on the bottom were 40mm too short
Lik those?
the back pack was adding rigidity as well, but that just went out the window
Bottom don't
Bottom bounced?
if you do it like the other hydra people do the no added benefit
My rails aren't that strong lol more for actual mount they could bend with My hand. My coeon has better ones
Yea the hydra method doesn't
That's why I didn't care
this is using the trident method
Discover E3D's Revo Nozzles for your 3D printing extrusion system, for hassle-free nozzle swaps without the need for tools or hot tightening. We are proud to be aUS distributor for E3D. Description With a wear resistance comparable to a Ruby or Tungsten carbide nozzle, ObXidian is built to last, regardless of what yo
@naive swan they only have point 6 but thought you might like to see this
Just need to start installing the hydra parts now
Looks like I need to rewire the bed but it should be easy
didnt u add wagos?
I did
I just need to replace the wires to the ssr
Since they need to be longer
Since I can’t solder those to extend
then just do that
@naive swan u should vc hehe
@naive swan
Im a big fan of the extending product life.
This relieves the downward pressure of the bed on the stepper
yea ik
how does it work?
@naive swan u msut watch the gundam epiosde
its a gundam epsiode
"cycle of Sin" is the next episode
Install on stepper shaft, have coupling rest on it before connecting lead screws. Takes the weight off the internal spring washers inside stepper and sets them on thrust bearing.
good coupling
the ones I linked?
ah ok, what bearing and how many?
yea but the z should be fine
uxcell F8-16M Thrust Ball... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QLTXJDH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Description: The separable components of thrust ball bearings are interchangeable. This facilitates mounting and dismounting, and maintenance inspections. Thrust Ball Bearings are consisted of a shaft washer, a housing washer and a ball and cage assembly. They are designed to accommodate axial lo...
One per shaft
I dont know. Dont have stats but i would say for a mic6 or atp5 8mm bed it may be worth it
Maybe not so much with standard bed
sounds like would make VFA artifacts more present/ common
That bed I linked that was 410x410 is 8 lbs
Its at the stepper, im going to be using oldham’s on the hydra arms so that should counter any artifacts
do have the couplings already?
also no.
old hams don't counter all VFA
The oldhams? Not yet
get wobblex
Well intil someone merges hydra and wobblex thats what i got going on
I want wobblex but i havent seen a mounting solution that i can “tinkercad”
It may just work straight outta the bat wth modify ing the hydra base foot to include the wings mount
@dawn vapor u should join vc too hehe
@naive swan I'm now adding wobblex to hydra
nice
join vc nerd
im building right now
focus on dis Ratio!!!
Arms are on
pog
is there a list with the dimensions of all the panels? i didn't see one in the BOM.
joe has em
First spot al.ldt dpne
For wobbleX
Will r3quire new arms of hydra fyi
@shell wolf btt made the screen hehehe
Lol rank #25
i am working on them
@vocal terrace looks like the hydra kit doesnt match the bom
What...
U missing stuff?
Open a claim on their discord
but i just noticed he added some random m5 shcs x 10
ah i see
its all good
the bom doesnt delineate between SHCS and BHCS
all good
Ok all is loaded
Just need to wire and cut the panels
Time for sleep
it was short 2 m5 tnuts, they packed 20 and the bom calls for 22
not a big deal for me but i have a inventory, not everyone does
Belts installed. How are you cutting your panels vengeful? Just straight ruler and knife or you got some sort of jig?
I assume you are asking about the coroplast. If so, if it is with the grain I use an xacto to cut inside the channel then a pull blade to clean up the cut. For cross cuts, I use a metal ruler and a fresh blade on the xacto.
There is a jig you can make but I’m not sure it’s worth it
😂 13 steppers
Im having trouble wrapping my head around that belt path.
just swap the bearing stacks for otors
Also. Question on belts. So i has two 3.1 meter belts that once i ran the belt paths and fitted, ended up cutting almost 700 mm? Does this sound right? Anything fun i could do with this amount of belt?
gates?
Yes
I mean i dont know why the bom has that much excess?
I gotta double check but just seems like too much excess on belts.
Yeah! I could use it for my e3
i can measure one right now
Measure dis ratio
Amazon special
How strong in the printed z motor mounts?
oh those
I was abit scared to print them
they do the job
Printer is fine for hydra
we could embed the metal plate on those
Bruh metal vs this?
to be fair i thought the same thing but there was no difference on the printed version
Well I thought they might be okay for standard bed, but @dawn vapor has a 410mm bed lol
That’s a big boy
@dawn vapor on the 1.9M per loop
whoa loaded question, lol
Two mains things, one of which I hope to improve with the new steppers
But the second in the jerking noise when the printer changes directions
I’ve tried lowering the square corner velocity
the printer is too big too resist flex
When I get new motors I’ll make a video to test noise
Theyr solid if printed 4 perimeter 5/5 top/bottom and 40% infill
@deep vine sunon fans
2209s
Stealthchop
On
Interpolate on
tmc 5160s are alot louder
yeah but you shouldnt be running interpolate
why?
it is not recommended by most stock configs
shouldn't yes LOL
What is it tho?
where do you get the files for the stepper tower mount. The Mount on the mercury website looks a little bit rigid. Do i need anouther x-joint for this version of the tower?
this is vengefuls project.
THANKS !!! 🙂
This part needs to be deleted for the side panel to bolt on in place, couldn’t get a t nut or spring nut in there on that bolt hole without removing that part of print.
Unless its meant to bolt some other way?
def looks like a tnut spot
Your gonna make me tnut
hammer head it
or just remvoe the spot further down
Oh i removed it. Was just providing feedback
i just poped it off with an xacto nife
@naive swan is this screw to lock the tension or just to keep tensioner in place better?
to lock
write up here https://github.com/Vprince099/UserMods/tree/main/Mercury_One/Vengeful/Standalone_Knob_Tensioners
@dawn vapor same concept on these
Been a min since I have been on
@naive swan Are you able to design the same knob as the tensioner for the LCD 12864 ?
The ZeroG knob would be cool to match
I think so but it will not be as nice as the original unless I pour resin in it or something
Oh
Yea also this ain't a zerog project we need vengeful logo now
I have resin and hot glue
No it has 2 leds
I needs a diffused inlay
@vocal terrace
Also I need a logo
Just don’t know what
I wish I had more time to print
I’m thinking hexagon pattern
slow process since working 60 hour s a week
More printers = more time
true
Or get macros to print and remove it from the bed then just use the plugin for klipper anywherre
I have macros setup
Then that shouldn't be a big issue just have storage for ur printing
U just use cold nozzle and bed
True
voron is almost done too
Need more space too
Its what peps have done for a while
The cf tube is me using it cause I'll get an aluminum one when mellows come out
4 printers in a small room
I mean if Def. Not like ik it will be out
Yeah I’m at 5 right now
nice
7 if I count to packed away
3fdm and 1 resin
No resin for me
I like the idea don’t like the work
I'm prob gonna remove my tap I think now
tap is shit\
beacon ?
ahhh
klicky pcb u can go
quickdraw im prob putting on the vzbot or euclid
i'll try to see their weight
Order3d ridge gear now
Nice
The stealth burner is going to the type-V
Hextrudort will be going on Seitchwire prob
I'm gonna modify the files for hydra more tmrw
Cleaned up alot today
Um do u have stock arms?
I have it already
For wobble?
Yeah not needed
I could prob just make a screw add on but screw that hehehe
Ewwww why quad
Go belted z then
It requires extended arms
Oh Frick that
And an angle change
Frick that further
Yeah I will probably just go full hydra
Keep it simple
Since sourcing plates will be simple
Wobble w9nt look like poo
350 or 377x370 easy
Yeah but the hole pattern would change on quad
Drill it urself
Not hard to do. Make a stl
Yeah I can
Then just use a drill bushing or drill press
But not everyone can
I have the equipment
User friendly takes priority
Right now I can take advantage of the stock hole pattern on the mic6 plates
But the atp plates don’t have them
So it’s better to just stick with the hydra bolt pattern
The trident mod would decouple the printer from the hydra plates and give more options though
nice
@naive swan Opion how should Ichange from here
I kinda like the small wobbleX bump but idk if wanna make that curve smaller
I think that bumps cute.
New build sheet and motors
And I must say, before full testing, these LDOs are so much quieter
Which one are they. The lomger shaft ones?
No, the new super power design.
I’m hoping for quieter
don't PRINT at 100mm/s
That is how they stay quiet
Oh I seen this on YouTube
Link?
those specific motors Vez has talked about em
(THIS VIDEO IS SPONSORED BY LDO)
In this one I am testing the new beasts from LDO and Jason. The new Super Power motors. Very promissing and I like them a lot so far. More testing will happen, but I am happy to share these tests with you today :)
Btw, for those who saw my comment on FB about 3000mm/@80K. I am sorry about it. I was dumb and forg...
@naive swan is the power switch we are using two in two out?
how many spots to connect?
or send link again
if it says DPST then yes
ZF Electronics Panel Mount Rocker Switch - DPST - 16A - 125V
that is
I tested it with my voltmeter
And yeah i think im going one out to main psu and other to rspsu
I linked the good one
Ok so u know which side to do as mains thoug?
2 in 2 out
Oh is that how that switch works? One side higher amperage for mains?
no
Mains shouldn't be connected by the neutral side to switch
make sure its the hot/ live/ L side
It just means when you flip the switch, it cuts both poles
it will just ground it if not and bad time
Yea that swirtch deos that
it isn't really neded
I think it’s good practice
So im not doing mains until i finish getting my lenovo heater and rails
It’s safer
yea good idea.
Also don't forget to lick the mains
I mean if i bypass that and let the ssr handle it there’s always a possibility of something wrong
idk what ur saying
just follow the voron mains wiring diagram.
Im going power in to switch to wago mounts
Make sure u connect the Hot labeleld/ L stuff to L
And distributing from there
Then neutrla to N
also color it
Black/ red is hot
Green as ground
then whnite as neutral
Yeah i got all correct color wire
I know enough to do it but not enough to NOT double check lol
I went to school for (1 year) electrical engineering technician still double check
Everyone likes you in the can depo btw
not like u can double check on life
Use the trident manual
? me?
Yeah thats what i was going by
Perfect
so confused
Yeah i used the word pog and they knew i got it from you
TAP I'm very active
How is that going?
Very good
tap is shit but Ik this shit very well
Kicked out yet?
no
I got everything but toolhead wired on can
Vengeful u like the first hydraarm?
Nice
I did my stuff first for canbus to octopus and saved alot of itm,e
I need to do the bottom panel
All the guides i got for flashing canboot and klipper to the sb2240 require it to be on the canbus
yes I did its way easier
@naive swan want my fil;es?
God bless you for doint that
or are they that bad
btt is shipping me my replacement soon
Not yet
Stronger than the tap ones?
same idea
I’m eyeing the hexort arm
I don't have the actual stuff
tap ones?
wobblexX idk if is ok with tap
but just remove tap
I'm gonna when swap to CF tube soon
No how they drop in mount
Yeah um n52’s?
Oh. It just uses magnets (i've heard that aren't strong enough so cause issues)
tap doesn't need N52
just best
I have alot of N52s cause tap now
I’m not sold on wobble x yet
I like how much stronger
I tihnk magnets might be issue
Hmm those arms look like they could be drop in ?
yes they just swap
Also bed needs to be heavy
hydra is
I need new lead screws
Too short
Just modify the way t mounts
For wobble x
how far it off?
u can do 1 screw fine for the top mounts pretty sure
About 40mm
F
At least 30
I did msg mirageC about adding it to the wobbleX github
wait the trident doesn't have top mount
its prob cuase how it is
hydra may be ok.
yee
You just need 470-500mm lead screws
I still don’t get it
ALL U GET IS THIS RAITO
now my trap, send naruto + sasuke kissing
gonna sapw my V2.4 rails soon
I lubed my switch and it's rails
Im still unsure on what ratio means in this usage/situation. I just learned what pog was three weeks ago thanks to burgo.
Anyone remember bravestarr
I just read up on it.
I need to get the rails/kit
So
Youmetong isn't
And are good
Ik people who work for vendors who don't buy vendor rails but youmetong cause it's that much cheaper and good
Not gonna say what vendor but it's pretty well known they have good stuff
Had to put some temporary plates from the last version, another item for the list
My printer lives. Got 90% of the wiring done. Need to do both bottom and top covers on electronics enclosures and flash can before i can get it printing again.
Also in case you guys may have answer.
On EBB SB2240 i haven’t flashed canboot or klipper onto it. When i turned on to do so. My hot end fan (hooked up to the pwm pins because i plan to use the tach as a failure safety. If fan stops spinning itll shut down printer) anyways when plugged in fan is 100% is this normal prior to flashing?
No
Y can't use that
U can only use 4 pin fan there
I was gonna. Just use the tach pin with qnother port
Maybe I need toolchabger
I feel like toolchangers are become very popular all of the sudden
PitStop 3 is a 3D printer and tool changer that supports 10 to 20 materials at the same time, all with identical or different hotends and nozzles. Diving into various design decisions and the reasons behind them.
Support this project on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/mihaidesigns
Chapters:
0:00 Project overview
0:44 Old PitStop 2 project
1:56...
Too much space too
Rear im gonna remove the extra heatset spot prob
Oh I don't need the middle part I've learned for my files
nvm
wait rear just doesn't need it I gues
L
+Ratio
Why do they have dogs and cats lable’d as pests
exactly
in case you want the dog hair and dander out?🤷♂️
Back to that fan question. Vengful do you have your hot end fan kick on only when extruder heats up or is it always on?
all people should do it as heater
always on. Rekts the fan
reverse wghat i said second. NEVER always on
agree with Burg, the fan kicks on over 50C
My v0 fan used to be always on and that was always failing
screw that mellow board
lol
it was supposed to be controllable and it was fried and didn't allow me to control the pin
RIGHT DONE!
Thats how i ran my 5+. On over 50c trying to set it up on the pwm pins so i can e shut off.
Now for the rear
if u set it to the specific 1 for klipper it turns on always with ehater on
Do I remove heatset spot we think?
U think they add character or nah?
Nah remove
TMRW
bruh orange pi clone
lol inovation
its canbus
@naive swan opnion on how to remove this cureve?
wait wobbleX might block nvm
select the objects and hit the delete key
if it deletes more than expected then hit ctrl+z
Gonna make it thicker
Do needa make this side not wavy
Assuming needa remove faces but I clicked alot and no likey
What program are you using for this burgo. It doesn’t look like tinkercad.
fusion360
Number 15 Burger King foot lettuce the last thing you would want in your burger king burger is somebody’s foot fungus
I lvoe it took 4 horus to get caught
+Ratio
U didn't buy old ham couplings right?
Cause buy 3 wobbleX if ur oing hydra
ur also the reason making these files so early lol
That video was horrendous btw.
yes.
I love the funyn
maybe this week I'll change my discord
I am not. Im buying wobblex
good
What meme will you pick next?
I have from school
good
Back panel is on
nice w0bbleX almsot done
very nice
pidtune?
looks like normal PID from seciond half
bad therm
I thought so
unless you did a power cutoff
nope
junk
poor mans microfit'
I always have them in stock
@naive swan look at that fucking stupid quad Z mod
bruh no.
They are just good!
micro fits are way morea nnoying
screw paying 3-8$ a connector
yes
if u buy em from right palce
no
yes.
We don't cut any corners here at 3D Lab Tech. We offer the highest quality 3d printer filament and 3d printer parts that have passed the most stringent testing so you can have the best 3D printing experience which equates to less tinkering with broken or jammed printers and more printing.
L + RATIo
thats how much they cost
Are those normal lead screws? They look bigger than 8mm
450mm
buys I'm gonna break my monitor
Pretty fast? My hot end drops back to room temp in a bit over a min.
Meant thickness @naive swan girth
you have to have timeline on
I do
yea
left arrow
I needa change these corners cause its fricky
I have them done but this stupid side
these stupid fillets
they are connected and so hard to delete
also @naive swan vc? @dawn vapor
whatcha all designing now
using a cr-touch for temp
all i have right now
Ok guys WobbleX is going into community rn
link ?
I dont have hydra yet
regular E5+ is out
oirder 3
ojh ):
if getting woblle X get 3
just shutdown again
Heater extruder not heating at expected rate
See the 'verify_heater' section in docs/Config_Reference.md
why 3 ?
12% discount
ok
looking up wobble x
very nice
v 1.1.5 ?
Like how you hide the motors
cleaner look
put another therm on prrinter finally got a small print
looks good!
pog
pog ?
pogchamp
not good with lingo what is that
Belts tomorrow and I will be ready to set up my config
Which belts?
Looking good @naive swan
6mm gates
I thought you already had received them?
L
I'm looking at thr cnc for the voron
Not needed
Only machine I'd get cncd is a vzbot
Vorons are dog shit for speed in comparison
Yea
ASA should be plenty good or abs
Pretty much print in ASA
Just printed a temp cr touch in asa
Already have a voron 2.4 r2
And a zero g conversion
Like to get a hydra
Adding wobbleX logo
I'm the only person rn with wobbleX hydra I think (files not in person)
Oh
Where u see?
Aliexpress
U see it there?
Yes ws8
But for hydra?
Nope
@deep vine what settings are you using on the carbon bed plate?
Just got one
Are you using glue stick?
CF side u don't
its supposed to be lower temp max though of 100 but 110 people do still
WOBBLEX logo added
zeroG logo add?
I did I just need to install them
yea science!
Whats science
Breaking bad reference ):
Also may need a top lead screw mount for hydra wobbleX if anyone wanna test here it would be coolio
Gotta purchase rails this week from your vendor
Ill be printing the arms this weekend so if you got a top mount i can test
this isn't with top mount
@dawn vapor what bearings u got?
the pillow ones or actual 608 I think
608s gonna make for
ok 2 ideas:
-
I mount it and have 2 side mounts similar to the Y endstop mount. but surrounding the bearing
-
I do a top mount 1 that does 2 screws enar the top of the 90degree frame connectors. Will still be put onto the linear rail somehow.
@dawn vapor I do intend on testing vs of without top bearing and with
1 u guys put it in ur collecitons?
2 downloads/ 11 views pog
Oooooh I got ya, you had me nervous because I ordered the same belts as you
mellow cost more....
my rec
Yeh
Hopefully they come soon
@naive swan so my mini display stays black. Will it not light up until i clear all klipper errors?
klipperscreen?
No