#Ender 5 Plus - Mercury 1 (Classic) with Stealth Burner and New Enclosure Project
1 messages · Page 10 of 1
Yeah i saw he burned his up
Alpt of people are having caps coming off rn
Ebb36 is good. Also look at mantis XOL2
on sb2040?
Mellow?
yeah
Yeah mellow makes shit electronics
well thats obvious
I'm talking about sb2040 yes.
Ebb36 I've had success
lol
I know you didn’t wire it backwards *
I recall them showing you a product pic with it backwards though
lol victim shamming rofl
No I bought another.
Im a btt fanboy. Ive only had success with them
I'm still tryna explain to BTT that they are wrong
Even though i hear their stuff can be junk
They are what they are. Their QC is non existent
I havent had any come in doa
I have had about 6 different boards
Prob in minority
I go through Amazon just incase their stuff
Skr 1.4 is dog crap that's why
Ive had their SKR2, and a few of their screens.
1st gen stuff
it usually takes them a version to iron out the kinks
SKR2s have a bad launch for instance
Oh yeah my fan board was the issue with other machine.
Cause the board wasn't soldered correctly looks like
they would fry whith 2209s
It's at an angle.
@vocal terrace i know were clowning on the 2240 but seems like it has everything i want/need in my setup. Do i cut that trace on my tap pcb and just use one of the end-stops to plug into?
No it works both ways
Also Cw2 is dog shit that's why I say dont
SHERPA MINI with the XOL2 mount is better air glow.
Flow
I'm gonna be upgrading soon
Rj11
what's wrong with CW2
sorry
basically parts cooling
if fine though, just not the best
IMO Looks>Performance in this case
Yea I haven't printed with SB yet
I think Ill stick with SB
too much invested in it
I mean this mainly matters if your wanting to speed up PLA prints. Its still good for ABS and high temp materials as far as i know/read.
As soon as you have good chamber temps, the fan is needed again even for abs
Overhangs start curling
yea
I have ordered one to test, I will update how it goes, hopefully mine doesn’t fry like Burgos
cw2 is heavy
I have 1
I have 1 and then a bad one
I'm putitng it on my switchwire most likely
Oh
cw2 is heavy and like theres one that do same thing but smalelr.
Sherpamini
Vz-hextruodrt
both are way better.
ok .. but i think ill stick with SB
too muc h invested
yea well I don't have money to burn at the moment
I'm just strategically upgrading
well ill just have to wait
having trouble with getting the ender 5 plus to print properly
I have the eva 2.4 on it and all of a sudden just wont print
re-leveled reset z offset etc
Define wont print pls?
printer tool either too far or to close/ spaghetti
heightmap showing
example
2 days ago printed this
A multifunction CNC machine using the ZeroG Mercury 1.1 motion system and CyberPlotter tool heads adapted to work with a modified EVA carriage.
Laser mount for a Neje A40640 diode
Pen mount for Sharpies
Build notes forthcoming on https://garage notes.lmnt.co
Thought of you vengeful
I have seen that video
Whats your toolhead look like
mine Dragon HF eva 2.4
What probe
bltouch
I had a similar issue a few weeks back. Was my probe mount had softened/screws had come loose. So it was tossing my height off
Didnt notice it until i watched it laying down a layer while troubleshooting that it moved slightly
Bltouch as well
Mine was sls printed nylon. Never got close to 70 chamber temp and still softened
ok maybe i should re-print another bltouch mount
If i can get one to print
Over hangs like butter
Settings in your slicer correct?
haven't changed anything in slicer
Ok sb2240 canbus adventure begins
Now going to start modding rear steppers for new steppers. Is there a way to chamfer in tinkercad?
I've come to learn that Euclid Probes I can make for 5 CAD if do 100
@vocal terrace what mcu are you using?
For can on octopus pro do i need the u2c?
RJ11/ RJ12
I was reading up in the CAN board that flashing firmware can be a pain on octo pro because no dedicated can bridge? Hows your experience been with that?
no.
I don't think can is necessary
If its wired keep it wired.
A good umbilical is better
I managed to do it but, it was a pain.
Also last night I got a time out error
Well after talking good about btt my skr2 died. Time to dive in and install everything i got.
What? How?
Had a print going last night when i git uo to check oarts fan said it was running but was not. Reset rebooted. Saw a too low error then nada. Black screen won’t flash. Won’t turn on. Have to spend the night at work so I won’t be able to troubleshoot further until tomorrow.
Too low has to do something with stepper drivers from what I read, but I don’t see why I would have an issue with them
Get a manta m8p
It has native vanbus no adapter needed
only if you get a v1.1 v1.0 doesnt support it.
yea.
Looking through forums. Maybe blown fuse on skr2. Still just going to start converting but ordered fuses to see if that fixes it.
that would make sense
don't just do fuse
prob worse
the fans aren't fuses
they are mosfets
ok i have 23 glasses left, 23*12mins looks like 4.6hrs left
@vocal terrace the fan is what made me reset the board. The board came back once with a “too low” error. Looked it up and it might be due to blown fuse. Will know tomorrow when i get home. Theres two fuses on board by bed connector. A 10a and a 15a. Thats what i plan on checking. Blown mosfet i can just switch the fan connector but right now nothing on the board os either sending a signal or allowing a firmware flash so fuse is only thing i can think off.
If its just a fuse i can keep the board for the MPCNC
Yes but thats just bandiad oltuino. ur fuze blew for a reaosn
fuses don't just blow.
Correct and i wont know what that reason was until i check. If i put new board in and for some reason it has to do with something i already have/fan bed mosfet wont know until i open it up.
Don't get the same bowrd
Get something better like manta m8p
I already received octopus pro. May buy manta still looking into weather i can get a 1.1
if ordering new anyway, but if @dawn vapor has one then use what you got
no need to waste money for the sake of wasting money
yea but like fuses don't blow for no reason. Thers ikely another reason
yeah im talking when the board is being swapped
yea but that board is dog crpa.
I've literally gone through 5 different ones cause they were DOA
Again if theres another reason the boards blown a fuse (has hundreds of hours) just want to make sure im not going to say instantly blow a 2209 or my octoboard
@vocal terrace when i need a new board, im getting the manta. but till then rolling with my skr 2s
also skr2s work just fine, but in this hobby shit happens
doesnt matter what board it is
the entire board is toast?
I don’t know. I know i boot up bltouch deploys like normal but my tft wont connect to it. Tried switching to marlin screen and its just black screen. My print failed and i had a blob of asa on nozzle but other than that everything looked fine externally. No magic smoke smell. Just non op parts fan and then reset “all low” alarm and black screen. Hopefully my steppers are fine because i was going to move them over to octo
Will plugging in a messed up stepper mess up my new board or just not work?
check the traces but i have no idea really
check if drivers can be tested using a multi meter
Just use the other board
has octopus
i know @dawn vapor is concerned it will fry the new board
Drivers shouldn't relaly fry board
Just stepper buzz to test
shouldnt
that will not test a thing
you know that
sure it will tell you if they work
but not if they will jack up that socket or the board
small movement. with a bit of time. U shouldn't create enough current to frick shit
@naive swan where did you ground your frame?
These grounds can all go through a wago right?
correct
i use 5 slot ones
done with the laser
back to 3d printers again
WAGO 221 Series Compact Splicing Wire Connector Assortment Pack 50pc | 221 Series Assortment with Case | Includes (25x 221-412), (15x 221-413), (10x 221-415) https://a.co/d/en0SUpn
Pull the lever up, insert a conductor and push the lever back down – done! Tool-free and lever-actuated, WAGO's 221 Series wire splicing connectors easily, quickly and safely connect solid, stranded and fine-stranded conductors of different cross sections using two-, three-, and five-wire connect...
Got myself this kit for that
Nice
looking good, are you using barf's
You had any experience with dirtybird toolhead? I’m looking at mantis and xol2 then stumbled onto dirtybird.
@vocal terrace whats that garbage on your gantry?
Haven't
Wdym my backers?
I need 1 cable chain...
Get deltas if ur gonna go XOL2 I learned.
@dawn vapor "Does the polarity matter because I’m going to have to snip this wire and crimp on a different connector."
Bruh clown behavior from that dude
also OSHI NO ko ep.2 POG
@vocal terrace imagine mcgiver. I hve two black wires which do i cut!
Hes going to have a hard time when he has to connect everything at the board.
neither u just shit ur pants
The animation is too good on oshi
the manga is fire
So update. Not sure what did it but all my steppers are fried.
F
ur whole board is bad tehn rpob
ur 24V line fried
Must be but the only two damage items i noticed where my parts fan mosfet is toast
And when i tried flashing the card yesterday it burned up the sd card and fried it. Just noticed it had char marks
I dont notice any damage on the wires for power supply
I guess ill check and verify proper voltage coming from it
yes. ur nnot gonna see that prob
no.
just unplug it
don't power that board its a safety hazard.
No i already removed board
I found a spare skr2
That i used to test steppers
The other board is dead dead
Cant connect to it cant do anything so ima snap it in half and toss it
Fuses are intact. Board looks pretty clean except mosfet
yea but that means shit
like saying my house looks fine when all u see is the outside
it's still on fire on the inside
minus smoke
lol does the polarity of the smoke matter
I mean smoke from the house
Voltages on power supply
So going to just move forward with starting conversion to type z
Not going to bother running that standby skr2 just didnt want to instantly fry my octo pro
Ok about to start the upgraded stepper stls
Ill have to print those on open frame for now but those mods you did. I like that
Never would have thought of adding a removable plate. Thats a real good design touch
Burned sd card
Lol is that why you were opposed to pockets?
Damn I thought the electrical problems on my V0 were bad
You could keep pocket top and switch all the others to the new bottom
Like more than it is
yeah you could mix and match
? Recess more?
I would think thats fine to leave flush
Less printing if you have pocket top and bearing bottom
Makes it easy to switch. Modular. Sexy
depends on whether it tries to ride up
If the fits tight like the one i made. Theres no riding lol
true
Should be push or tap in with mallet
subject to testing on this one
Have a cal cube with bearing holes and clearance holes that can be printed prior
Ill be happy to test should have new steppers end of week
ok
i will post them here in a bit
should be workable with any version of the top plate
fun thing./ dont download FUCKIGN KLIPPIAN WHEN PRINTING LIKE IM SO FUCKING ANNPYED STOPPED MY PRINT
AHHHH
The ikea love seat?
mo the firmware smart ass
Why where you trying to download it? While printing and using it? Im confused
Update?
no its a fork of klipper.
I didn't assume that it would insta start the files over my present files
Oh thats right it downloads directly to pi right
Yeah i wouldn’t either so good to know
Sorry for your loss burgo.
Hopefully it wasn’t a long print
I woulda have liked to known
yea fuck this program
I can't even use my god damn printer rn
like I've not gotten angry in literally YEARs
like this
LIKE FUCK ME
u can't use SB2240 I guess
hopefully I had all stuff fine I think so
at least it backs em up
flash a fresh build on it
lol
still
I'm really pissed
MY PRINTE RWORKS AGAIn
theres cool shit in that program
but not for me with this thing rn
how long ur voron handle tajke to print?
hmm about 8hrs i think
each?
the black part took my V2.4 3.5hours
i didnt use my printer for a week and now its dead
lol
other psu on?
good point
the 5v is on
not sure about the 24v
nvm it is
canbus is on
mcu is on but no response
let me update everything
everything is on but the mcu is not connecting to the pi
try ntoher port
next ste is L + RATIO
OMG I GOT SO GoOD tap results
out of 8 probes 1 microstep difference
i think my 24v psu is dead
wdym how u test?
its not providing any juice
do u have anything plugged into it?
the lights off it too?
which one?
green on psu
120V?
Tryna do faster parts now hehehehe
its my pi
yes
its not connected to the network now
had to hardwire in
looks like it went ipv6
im back
did some clean ups and a reboot.... all good for now
I'm tempted to cut my panel and have a fan to make faster nozzle cooldown
hotswap deez nuts
seems klike something in my z is fucked again
idk that or my tap melted
@naive swan adaptive mesh is pog
Qnd purge
My v2.4 I'm getting a bit of accels on lol
Almost 6 hours main parts of handles
Stock trident speeds
Slicer then moved it down based on flow of 12mm cubed
I need to get my new rails, my new tap magnets installed/ new files and then my belts a little bit then I can increase further
My belts get here by Friday
Pof
Pog
Ur def gonna get better results with them
My fans I'm excited to upgrade. Buying my 48V psu same tme
So reimage and set up everything tomorrow then start printing the new mounts so I can swap in the new steppers
I have a 48v psu
How does that work?
MW 350
Is it just new psu and go to town?
And mcu
No
They have jumpers to swap
Idk if octopus or the other will use.
There's a jumper where it swaps them to v fused or the not fused power
Is there a lot of parts to swap to do that upgrade?
Haha everyone’s having a bad night cant make this up
I’m boned
Seems my fan might have been the culprit
Not good
I plugged part cooling fan on an always on connection and started a small fire
F
Oh shit
U need better board
Octopus or some other
Cause yeah u still use 2209s
Well that boards scrap so
For Z and exteuder
Yeah that makes me want to build a testing psu
Lol
No tmc plugged in
I have a variable can use for 30V upto
Was just troubleshooting
I need to get 5160s the wattarts or whatever
I figured I had to upgrade to octopus or better just didn’t know if there was more to it
Not really
U need to get better fans
Ur gonna run into them as issue soon
Was using fysec
I'm already maxing these gdtimes oit
I have deltas on order
U can't water cool ur part cooling
Wishing you two a better day tomorrow. Got the new new mount printing on the e3. Night all
That will be cpap
I'm gonna prob water cool with golieth on the 255mm machine. Then custom add on for canbus water cooling
Or I'll swap to wires.
I'm gonna swap the canbus for my 2.4 when swap to xol2
Guess I need another can board cause I'm supposed to have 12v fans...
Nice. Also. What’s that shit on your gantry?
Hey do you think the cnc parts are worth it on the 2.4?
The clips on the bottom are to prevent panel warping.
I have 4 bed fans (2 in nevermore).
Kinematic bed kount
No
Straight up only spot is AB motor moujts.
I have backers there. I may remove X backer at some point
And got any idea what voron is revealing this week?
They did that cool video with the 24
Um klippian may be talked about
And what was that thing in front of print head?
Oh nvm it is the print head
Looks like m5
Hmm
My sb2240 came today
Fingers crossed mine does not fry
Fingers crossed this ratio
Push them together
Urs should be good
Remember the fans pins
And that u got a shit board for a shit thing
Canbus I'm sticking with but I'll likely be going watercooled because of it
I see the pins have been cut
The fly newest sh board looks good
But prob isn't great electrically.
I just want the 12V fan mosfet but already gor ebb36 coming
What should I do with the fan pins
Set them to correct voltages manual goes over everything
Ahh okay I see
I'm swaping to xol2 so I'm not gonna use it until switchwire
4 fans? nice
3
And the 4 pin one is always on or u can only use 4pin fan
Not 3 pin
ok still better than 2 at least
I fried my sunon forgetting that
The 4th one is proximity
thats ok
can fan always on is good
If ebb36 has fan jumpers would be god boqrd
U need that for proximity/ inductive
Also pls tell me usb to can adapter to utoc
ok back to work, no time today
Same
I wonder what to do about the fan now
The ebb36 is good being on the back to get a fan on it
Work hard @naive swan
I’ll look for the mod that looks best lol
Got 2, they seem legit
ok today was a long day
So when installing mainsail through raspberry pi imager i need to enable ssh dont i.
Im having some parsing errors now but i seem to be chugging along
I have real ones and can agree
Ugh feeling pretty defeated with klipper atm. Feeling like restarting my config file from scratch. Been chasing errors all evening.
Did you manage to get everything installed, your just struggling with printer.cfg?
Yeah. Some errors are real easy the ones im struggling with is understanding the led stuff. Keep having issues with led status atm. I think i need to install dependencies and libraries for the LEDs on the pi?
Also printed out new bottom stepper mounts. Get new steppers in today for assembly. New stepper today looking fire.
Which led set are you trying to install?
Barf
are you using this?
[neopixel sb_leds]
pin: PB0
The pin connected to the neopixel. This parameter must be provided.
chain_count: 10
The number of Neopixel chips that are "daisy chained" to the
provided pin. The default is 1 (which indicates only a single
Neopixel is connected to the pin).
color_order: GRB, GRB, GRB, GRB, GRB, GRB, GRB, GRB, GRBW, GRBW
Set the pixel order required by the LED hardware. Options are GRB,
RGB, GRBW, or RGBW. The default is GRB.
initial_RED: 1.0
initial_GREEN: 0.0
initial_BLUE: 1.0
initial_WHITE: 0.0
Nope got that all right it appears. The last error i stopped working was telling me led effect was incorrect in file. Ill get it today. Steppers get in and should have a fun evening of assembly.
Will do when i get home
Also setting my uid i dont get a port at the end of my ssh query is that normal?
Vengeful what pi case are you using?
nah
just shit power rails'
they cant power much on the usb ports
you need external power injectors
My linear rails should be soon
im ready to go just need to get klipper and can boot on my new install
mcu and can are ready to go
good thing i loaded all my configs on the github
I’m just about finished this is anybody want me to share files and config I will. It’s on magnets so removes easily
ur motorssound like trash
Help me fix it lol
also those aren't real gates right?
Amazon specials
yea get gates
Surly that won’t help with noise??
Okay I will get come at payday
the triangle labs in BOM
Buy what do you think about the motor noise
get better motors prob
what are they?
Stepper online
those are louder
ur stupid for getting 5160s
send the link may be bad ones
alot are trash for 48V
only do 5160s for 48V
I bought them from Btt
U have fake belts but 5160s......
u should
I just ordered 5160 pro
That’s what I have
don't get those drivers...
Why not
They work okay for me
I have the pros and I haven’t noticed any issues tbh
YES!
are u doing 48V
My motors are noisy but they where before the 5160 pros where added
Same :/
I can put them into ZANDVE usermods after I finish the base plate and test it
Ok
only uif 48V
I'm still building a ciron 2.5r2
Thats nozzle brush right. Been looking for one. Nice!
ciron?
2.4?
I needa get a new bed heater for mine prob
its selling like death casue airbubble
Fysetc will get back to me later
I used one of my brass brushed and cut handle off
I got a edge to edge heater for mine
I'm gonna prob get 1 without adheaive and RTV
Mini Brass Wire Brushes Plastic Handles Wire Brush for Cleaning Rust, Metal Work Pieces, Welding Slag and Rust, Greasy Dirt, 12pcs https://amzn.eu/d/cl8YBNl
ew EU
Got the nozzle cleaner already
Just adopt it for your brush
What you using on your merc
Like go hyra
Which is this?
Me I got merc 1.1 and voron 2.4r2
I will do Hydra hydra when fysetec releases it lol
Fabrekoo is out of stock hydra
L
what need?
Exactly this brush would work
500mm extrusion
In us
u can easily get it from the US
I'm prob going water cooling now lol
Water cooled stealthburner?
no.;
vzbot
stealhburner i'm swapping
Already maxed out my fnas.
I would build one but they’re just too loud
idc
Have steppers and 3rd z axis
Mic 6 bed
ok....
U can eaisly get other stuff
heater u can custom order from Keenovo.
buildplate get from fysetc
@vocal terrace my steppers ar 1.8 degree
why they noisey?
cause thats the motors u have
you think LDO will be less noisey?
Ldo here
my LDOS are less.
what the best to buy?
2804AH
can i get them with long shafts?
ohh these are the super power ones?
yes....
do they actually have super powers?
bruh.
They are some of LDOs best motors
they are nema17s
no.
there is better motors that aren't supported by this printer
Nema23s are better
servos are better
no
the design.
good motors can't gurantee that
ur belts.
the big ass rpinter
whats the best gates? high temp?? i seen somewhere somting about GT3
GT3 aren't out rn
high temp is stornger for 2x the prce.
its not that much noticable
I've heard its more stiff
do you think they gona be a while?
they prob will cost ALOT
okay so which one to buy
yes that was me
apparently 135 degrees C
ur not gonna get hot enougn from them
for the high temp belt
i dont think you need high temp
^
Literally can't get that hot if u do vengefuls strat
these are pretty good price though
okay, i wont get them then,
so if triangle labs might not be real is it even worth buyin git?
the other ones I'm pretty sure 95% are
but I don't have the EPDM
EPDM is an extremely durable synthetic rubber roofing membrane (ethylene propylene diene terpolymer) widely used in low-slope buildings in the United States and worldwide. Its two primary ingredients, ethylene and propylene, are derived from oil and natural gas.\
no
i found this in my country cheap
get 6MM
don't buty that they are bad msgs
thats also 200mm
wait its this dued
hes good but not 1M of GT2
it just says £3 per loop
oh GT 2GT
ahhh
GT2 get
i see
how much the triangle labs cost u vs these
I'd go triangle labs
@naive swan u remove me from BOM
These might be better to add
yeah exactly, gotta be better than amazon specials
Lol yes
I thought you were done
I'll add screws and more now
Ok
Time to rebuild eva 3 tool for merc 1.1
eww
EVA3 is good when u have good belt parth
do SB
I have the sb on the voron
yall should be getting fans fyi
what fanzzz
delta fans....
or sunon
digikey sells em for good rpice
alot better than Gdtime
ive got delta in my SB
good
have you got pics of them
oh i seen the v2.
gonna repirnt the gantry prob CF ASA soon
have you thought of doing v0.2
no
I'd go saladfork
stock V0 isn't my thing
oh salad fork ill have a look
well i decided my next printer will be an x1
you jammy bugger!
i need something more reliable
i really want oone
i may give the K1 a shot
crality?
yeah lol
its klipper for k1
thats ok if you can swap it out and not lose functionality
less updates though
sounds suspicious
damn have to install all my can stuff again
Why?
on the pi
my mcu and can are good
just need everything that runs on the pi again
if this happens again....im busting out a nuc
vc?
damn
~/klippy-env/bin/python ~/klipper/scripts/canbus_query.py can0
nothing is coming up
ok power cycle found it
ok im up and running
but my screen is dead
nvm it just turned on
L
back in business
so glad i had current copies of my configs
might have to tune again though
i was about to head out
Why do heatsets instead of more m5 nuts?
i almost bought a new 2.4kit
Eww
i give up on the 2.4
that works
Trident is pointless
I'm getting great results but my rails are soon
omg fedex is the end
its always been canadapost for me
the v0s are good....but that is the extent of my voron builds unless they drop something game changing
yea Vzbot is what I like rn.
Also annex
nah im done with allthem
i want all metal
if its printed i might as well further expand this project
oh i will do a switchwire though
its wasteful to just landfill ender 3s
i like that too
but i need a largeformat workhorse
and i want to do peek
L
Dang I got 63 dollars of rails customs.
wait so my amazon rails were cheaper?
no.
no customs
ok but for me?
Ok layer 2 started, time to get my food
noice
So on the u2c i thought it plugged into the side 4 dupont? And do you just double up the voltage wires from the sb2040?
It looks like it plugs
And the red/black power gets doubled up with the voltage in to u2c?
Burgo can you elaborate again how your original can toolhead board let out the magic smoke?
bad pcb
SB0000
also U2C is poo if u have a octopus
So you had it plugged in proper orientation but btt showed you image of it plugged in backwards?
yes. just use the instuctions
I needa msg their support today to get a response again...
I got the u2c because i heard octopus can was poopoo
no it's the same.
U2c Is just only useful when don't have a big mobo
Ok so i just plug into octo can and wago the 24v to can toolhead?
idk i didn't do that way.
What way did you do
You sure your not doing anything wrong?
ne wbed heater ordered
What happened to the latest one?
?
my other one has an airbubble seems like so it smells like death
Thats 🌰
its prob due to bad heater install by myself. Ik ddn't use enough scratching surface
prob like that under heater
then I'm gonna use stuff to remove the glue then just RTV iot
Holy crap
what?
the easiest way to tell is if ur bed smells like disgustingness afteer u applied it
mine currently has RTV gholding it on. I'm not worried of it coming off but I don't wanna continue so hopefully get mien soon
im finally getting rid of some my old motors got
now to get rid of more random crap
where did you get the heater?
my honey badger has been great
this one is 1/2 price
I trust fysetc cause my hydra gonna be theirs too
i think im getting one meant for a V2.4 kit they sell
they have a hydra kit?
ok
I intend on buying it as my bed
now I needa try selling my extra SB2240 prob
or I'm gonna need to make a mount
At least I grt a free 3m can cable
remember CAD
2/3rd that number
I would spend alot more for fabreeko
that fysetc will be here faster to
you can get all that from fabreeko for the same price and faster shipping in the US
again im talking about US folks though
sometimes they shoot themselves in the foot
its 69 USD for fabreeko 300mm heater
same as tbhuis one but with the cutout prob
lets see....75(bed)+49(plate)+55(heater)+(no sales tax if not in florida) 179 out the door shipped fedex because of order size free expedited shipping
I menat the heater for me more. the bed is 218bucks for me without any ali coupons
bruh no sales tax florida is stupid
no
I have 13% sales tax
you cant tax across state lines
u should know my pain