#Ender 5 Plus - Mercury 1 (Classic) with Stealth Burner and New Enclosure Project
1 messages Ā· Page 9 of 1
@jagged condor im working on a merc based off vengfulās type z
L
But still printing prts and waiting on parts to come in
Im rubber your glue whatever L you give bounces back to you
My printer is stock e5p šš
Wdym stock
Yeah
With no 3d printed bells and whistles
I do have a skr 1.4 turbo but will probably get octopus
Mercury is cool mod but my frame is more straight then alot
Don't
Not needed
Go manta
I am fairly new to the whole 3d printing scene
Welcome
Manta M8p best rn. Then octopus or fysetc spider
Welcome u will come to learn u just spent money on dog shit. Then will fix it
I think E5+ is best starting printer ... becouse every one will cry when found out what he can print on it and learning curve go realy fast up.
My dog shits printing alright. Just doing mods for hobby sake
No.
E3v2
L Ratio
It's way cheaper
Most mods u need to get either way
@jagged condor don't get anything micro swiss
My printer has been out of commission for a while because my dad tried putting klipper on the new board and it kinda went kaplooey
Everyone says to online but it's bad
I donāt want to
Iāve seen it but itās expensive for mediocre at best
Wdym? U got a klipper second voard
I have microswiss dd on my e3 prints good
Don't get a freality sonic pad too
Not as good as my bondtech ddx v3
Which is same price and way better
@jagged condor not sonic pad?
Pls pls return if u did. Say that was miss labeled not actually klipper ez
What is that
It's a creality product. Don't buy any stock ceeality stuff
U have their shit Don't get more
Until u learn lol
On that i agree. No to creality āupgradesā
Also before u tinker with ur machine. Dont
Why not. Its a big way to learn fast
U want to be safe first. I made issue of going mercury too soon. Then needed to print pla to Then do asa
Go straight to ASA. Its easy
Because u learn how much it sucks to take apart Then put back together after u break something
Yes but u can break parts
I have a e3v2 for this reason. Got a used one then fixed
But you learn all the nuts and bolts if you take apart
Now I'm finally doing rails but all my machines doing rails
And with e5 hes going to be doing it a bit
Well I got new ones that are better for merc and my E3v2 XY
The merc your not building
Def. Go to a direct drive
It's still not my own design
I'm gonna stick M4 for a while on my e3v2
A good bowden is a good bowden setup
Thoughts on jetpack?
V0 one?
I didnāt know what it was until this morning lol
I thought it was just an extruder for a bowden setup
Not necessarily for v0
The M4 is good
My friend designed his own corexy machine using Prusa toolhead
And rev extruded aluminum so he doesnāt have to use T nuts
And print saitama with the ok speech bubble or engrave it
M4 good to betin
Rev edteudee?
Extruded
Also prusa toolhead meh unless new ones.
T nuts are good.
Speaking of nuts
The new new prusa one that cameout if actually could work. Otherwise ur friend is sus
Like mayhem
Did you guys hear about the guy that got his stuck between two high power magnets
Also the 86 fighting song so fire heard again
U deserve the death sentence. My balls hate u
They have blurred video of med staff with no joke two jaws of life
Trying ro clip onto the magnets to spread them
86 Anime?
And only sus here is you saying you didnāt f your grease
Or made a grease and jelly sandwich
He is a very large Prusa fan boy
Too scalped
He is able to make it for under $150
Not bad
Cause he is using what he has in hand and doesnāt want to spend a lot
To an ender 5+? Cause that's 1515s are gonna be issue
Do the belts cross in the back?
That machine gotta be small
It is small
Itās not a conversion
He has some random printer that he can use the board, motors, linear rods, lead screws, and bed from
And he has an extra Prusa toolhead from his brother
And he has extrusions from the past robotics season
Side mount y rails!!!!
Whats benefit in that?
Also that support beam is really poo
What size we talking here
You will see soon enough
Ur friend has such shit belt case he didn't flip pulley
Because if it is as small as im thinking it doesnt need supports?
What do you mean
He is in this server
Those belts are weird in the one corner cause the pulley for Motor he flipped
Also klicky cheaper than bltouch
He already has it
Wait are the side extrusions different lengths.
Yea I'd never build that. Looks like ok beta test. A rook is better.
I will tell him to join this forum
No.
I like the inverted stepper motors
This isn't the place
I can't even tell it looks weird
The old church. Noon. Be there
Not to talk just to see
Oh ok
Cause I donāt want to send screenshots to him if what he should change
His whole frame isn't a good idea
It is also his first experience with corexy
You don't want not the same level extrusion
He had only had Prusa mk3 and ender 3
Ok I needa work again
same here lol
My trick is witch from mercury fighting music
dang i need to watch this weeks episode
Just order the Beacon
hope fully it will be here soon
I just installed the sb2040 V2
v1 went poof
I need to check which version I have of the sb2040
Im rocking the very awesome BA-HTK-V4
Its all the rage
Just gonna sit here and wait for the L
What wattage is your lazer vengful
10w
Sorry been painting all evening
So I can etch all this glass
Still going and no curling yet
@naive swan nice you using the beacon yet. If so how long did it take to get to you ?
I first video is a shit post
(CARSON DANCE)
Reminds me of Gundam WFM fight song aka witch from mercury
What im thinking for my hydra top plate in clear yellow backlit
i think i ordered right before the weekend, but i got by the next weekend
ok
is that doug?
let me check my email
I haven't seen any shipping emails yet only say that I had placed a order 2 days ago
I ordered 2/28
oh wow
maybe i should reach out to them tomorrow
So I receipt email right after I placed the order
Then the next day an email with my tracking number
Yeah I would check with them
order placed on 4/09
I would have expected an email by cob today
im sure they are close by now
Maybe they have a backlog for Easter weekend though
true
So reaching out tomorrow is reasonable
yep
In both directions
how you like it ?
Itās good, you have to do some work arounds but itās also a good idea to do what I had to do
and Ill have to find some klipper doc on it
k
In mods
right noiw I have the bltouch keeps flaking out
Basically I donāt heat the nozzle until right before my purge and I do all scans with fan at 100%
thats pretty much wehat I do
Also I lower the bed by 100mm while it soaks
yea
You want to keep the beacon as cool as possible for scanning after that it doesnāt matter
Other wise I have no issues with it
cool
I am amazed it is so consistent. I was concerned using it as my z endstop
But it has been spot on
thats what Im goig to do
After a full month
bltouch ...failed to deploy all the time. Reboot and its fine
yea
I guess creality got lucky
lol Saitama from One Punch Man
lol
Polylite abs prints so well
is it v3? i read somewhill on klipper that you have to set somthing in config if this occurs
A few more pieces printed and can bus is installed.
Had to take a can bus networking course to install it tho lol
do you mean mainboard?
With this type of pattern, I would be printing in whatever orientation is outward facingā¦. Supports be damned
I got klipper screen work with happyhare project
Very nice
Haha yeah itās very tempting
The happy hare should work with trackrack too I would imagine
I want to put a klipper screen on mine but my priorities put that as a future mod
Is that an old IPad?
Tbh itās only handy if your desktop is not right next to you printer
Surface go, with the dock
Oh thatās nice
What does this mean?
(Iām the one who designed the printer)
I think he was calling out the cross pattern belt path
Bro not an ender 3, itās called the mono price maker select v2. Itās like 6 years old
I didnāt know š¤
Lol
Just some random ass printer I couldnāt remember the name
Hey mono price was big player before creality flooded the market
Very nice
Just wait for Burgo
Lol
I canāt wait to get flamed š
He will show up out of nowhere in a few hours
Yes
No dont.
I'd not want to have the bearings stacks so close. Want them strmf
Good afternoon Burgo!
octopus pro H723
What?
I did it like that to have better belt wrap
And also there is a 10mm gap between the belts
thats not alot
I'd want more
ngl thought u wer designer....
my wiha keys decided to replace with wera. The weras so much worse ngl Wiha was cheaper and better.
Oh wait u said were. Yea
I don't think 10mm is alolt
Pretty sure too that back mount Linear rail aren't great. Cause then more effects from bad pretension
Preload
I ALWEAYS MIX EM UP
GOOD AFTERNOON BURGO!
I read wrong
Afternoon. U watch Oshi no ko?
Why would you want more, i donāt see any downside to having them that close
So u have a stronger part. Urs are so close together. They have little support.
also its a 15x15 frame. Tapped ends with blind joints is the go to mounting method for cheap.
The rook, Voron 0, saladfork and the micron are all small printers. Look at them to see how
Iām going to tap the ends
Just I only have socket head bolts
So I need some way to hold it together well
Also this isn't the spot to talk about ur printer.
I havenāt yet. Did see the first two episodes of Heaven Delusion on hulu. (Pretty cool post apocalypse show) have konosuba, oshi no ko to watch today.
I did watch heavenly delusion and hells smething
I wish we would get more episodes of uncle from another world
read the manga.
its good
do you guys follow space X?
No.
Anyone got the manta din rail mount
can't u just get the voron mods1s
Got it
to be fair you use my build log to talk about anime
but its urs
And u like anime
fair enough, i like printers too....
Ok the canbus is setup
@naive swan U may like oshi no ko. it WAS SO GOOD
@dawn vapor tell me when finished
i havent tried them, i am assuming you saw them on amazon. these seem promising https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832667244886.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.54.493e1802he1wAH&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US
and priced fairly
correct
In the US good belts cost ~$5 Per Meter so if the difference is negligible, just go to one of the vendors. If time is not a concern, that link is the best i have found so far
well Burgo found it, thats the best I have seen
From what I can tell its gates. I have verified seller belts and its the same shit
Stupid thing killed my sunon fan. Cause I forgot about tachometer then added it....
But didn't change fan jumper
I do have another printer at the moment so guess i'll order the gates HT belt's
My 24 meters gets here by the end of the month
I just checked and ithought I put 10m only got 5
will that be enough for the voron 2.4
6mm
350
It might be close
16.4ft length
Yep
6mm, Model: GT2, Length: 5Meters/16.4Ft/196.8inch
looked up a voron 2.4 350 6mm 188mm
So many parts
@dawn vapor your stuff is in
Mine took 1 week
hydra will be cool
@naive swan did you have to get the 500mm frame too or does the ender 5 plus have the 500mm frame already
its a little bigger than 500mm
550 is largest extrusion eight.m
yes on front to back
not counting the original x gantry
Yea I was thinking about the hydra kit. I have the orig ENDER 5 PLUS FRAME
I was looking at the BOM I have everything already far as the fabreeko kit MERC 1.1 with black rails/MIC6 plate
me printing eva 2.4 merc 1.1 cable bracket
tall motor shaft
cant wait to get rid of this POS bl touch
every other print job bltouch fails to deploy
These where from aliexpress? That was really fast shipping. Most of the stuff i order from there is two weeks. Im in california.
No printed solid
Oh thatās right! Still fast. Thats cool
How much heavier?
looks good
EVA 3.0 worth the upgrade from 2.4 ?
think I mgoing to print the eva 3.0 with the dragon HF hotend
and see if I can find a stl for the beacon
2x
Yikes. What are you thinking for extra support, filets or actual pillars.
Under mounted support
I have never liked the steppers hanging off the back
It will sit under the bottom plate
And will be optional
The ldo max power steppers are not standard
measure the shaft
Itās 55mm
ok not annex k3 i bleieve.
Thatās why the name is s55
shut up vegeta
Not sure what printer uses them but printed solid carries them
Mandela Rose
why are theynema 17 kekw
2804 is the new ones to get
railcore they are for
Don't put on the one u told me makng
def 9mm belt motors
I am using them because they are the perfect size so the shaft is held captive with a bearing and wonāt flex
I could do 9mm but thatās not in the cards just yet
I have idlers in my cart lol
I'm prob doing them instead of bearings
Well the bearings will be needed no mater what
That rail ore is beefy
Core
I think that is on another level
Like full cnc printer ready for peek stuff
yea ik
Interestingly enough that thing is basically the same concept as a merc
Ideas are really flowing now
Iām tempted to build one
lol look at the cost
ok i got good X resonance
I think Y could be most likely my bad linear rails.
I'm getting new ones soon
We are testing a new beacon mount right now, actually. There's a Beacon mount already that requires you solder the wires directly. We've got a fix that doesn't require that in print testing.
@dawn vapor how tight of a fit is the bearing into the stepper housing you modified?
@twilit edge nice. I saw the one about soldering the wires direct. I'd rather not do that.
Drop a line on the #1041406799342997544 channel if you'd be willing to test the new one. Otherwise it should be ready in a couple of days.
@twilit edge yes i would be willing to test it
@twilit edge processes of printing 3.0 now
Tagged you over in the mod channel with the files you'll need.
Ok thanks
HevORT DIY 3D-Printer Documentation
@naive swan guess this looks like what I might do.
I've never checked out HevORT before. That's an insane number of configuration options.
Not bad idea of using spider couplings
U should do this those motors are for this type
Yes. It's very good for that
I'm still between it and the vzbot mounting setup.
Hold off as i just test printed and the gap was still a bit to tight so fixed and did a full print. The fit is lightly snug. Holding the two halfās together the bearing stacks jiggle. Once stepper installed jiggle goes away.
The bearing itself is tight. It will be hard to get out once you press fit it in.
lol i was looking at this in the morning
still think the rail core is my guy
once i finish my co2 laser and a cnc
Simplevore look at too
Vore
Core
It's same community
@naive swan what drivers are you running dor x/y would the new steppers benefit from other drivers with higher voltage drivers?
for now 2209
not sure which drivers you need
No.
Oh wait u said motor....
Yea u need to remember this is RMS values too. 0.707 x number = value
0.707 x 3
wait not sure
2A
2x0.707 = 1.414
TMC 5160
not sure i see myself going 48v
2209 at 24v is more than enough
Did you ever solve the bed drop issue?
Okay, well I printed it already and tbh although it was very tight gap I had to press it in, but liked this because it means it Will movement in the future
Even closer..
Did you remove you safe home z hop in klipper so it doesnāt skip steps after parking the bed and then homing after next power up?
TMC5160ās work good
I think beacon had me turn it off or kicky, and I never added it
Not sure why I donāt have it
Not too fond of the price
Right i was looking at them 30 bucks each
Picked up 7 sheets of coroplast
@deep vine are you using a separate board to run your ERCF?
Stay 2209s
Yeah I wasnāt planning on it
shitty input shaper time
0.6mm nozzle time estimate
I think less
@naive swan chamber temps?
Kinda weird routing but it worked
Without circulation itās at 50c
@dawn vapor
@vocal terrace Happy Birthday!
Dog
I'm at 58C on a 2.4
And 63C my canbus went to
But my motor easily 120c
So current go down down
Also ty
I can now sm9ke and drink legally in my area
yeah the merc holds the heat under the bed
not really it doesnt restrict the heat the same way
Thats cause I got bed fans
I get fun stuff tmrw.
- Fix my cw2 (something prob anti thingy is lose).
- Setup my brush
3.print.
all my heat hangs out here
Then move the b3r up.
i wish i could work on my printers this weekend
Lol why not
i have to laser all weekend and work tickets between each laser job
Divorce aka Always printint time.
Oh that's worse
Just quit
And shit ur pants rn
Vengeful u should try oshi no ko.
It's sub but so fucking tood
all so i can go to RMRRF
its a trade off
i have to push my team to 300 tickets
next week
so i do 100-150 and they can do the rest M-F
US $817.10 14ļ¼
Off | Voron 2.4 R2 kit 350x350x350mm CoreXY High Quality 3D Printer Full Kit Upgraded Parts Kits Impresora 3d Upgrade to voron 2.4 R2
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrPYvjE
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
Not bad
About 850 shipped
I would prefer a 250mm or a 300mm
250 really
yeah the fyestec burrow, it seem pretty good, i have enough drivers on the board to run it, but i didnt want the extra cabes so, it just case of usbc and the 2 powers leads.
happy birthday 
No standard bed
thats fine
if it was a trident then that might be a problem
im tempted to get a micron 180 though
if it was a 200 i would have ordered already
Haryk has partner ali atore
Their salad fork is fire too
true
but i have v0s so im not that motivated to get that
i need a workhorse that can print some stuff in my ever dwindling office space
i found the perfect spot for a cnc though
my unfinished attic
i want it too but my wife kill me š
just need some ply wood and im off to the races
lol same, but she wont notice
if the cnc isnt too heavy im going for it
but i think it is
i might go for one that will be used for learning and aluminum part manufacturing
thats the only reason i dont want to get a micron right now
i have too many printers
I already have 3040 CNC with some upgrades to learn. and I want buy one CO Laser or 40W diod laser
if you dont mind me asking, which 3040 do you have and how precise is it(3d printer grade etc)?
i want a small cnc so i can make the parts for my co2 laser
I order mid-or lower grade ... then i have to upgrade to Cloose loop steppers ... better drivers, I change controller and upgrade spindle to makita 700w
If i have too chosse again I will order queenbee pro
should i go for a scratch build instead?
yes i have this one
ok that what was i was looking at as well
you can order collets for more kind of router bits.
If you want cut alu . 1blade and oil mist
ok so i need to be ready for active lubrication
hopefully i find some good projects at Rocky Mountain Rep Rap
this how it look when you have only standard 3018/3040 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OzaGGjYc00U
Making a very cool front panel for an electronic device (powerful power supply). As a material - aluminum, from tools - a budget CNC machine.
- I'm on Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/_anton_pisarev_/
I was trying to make some front panels from alu and holes into plastic covers. it wasnt realy nice and clean. with standard 3040, after upgade it goes much better.
looks pretty good
this is what i am looking at
https://youtu.be/w26DHMccicE
Finally, my $200 Chinese Desktop Genmitsu CNC 3018 can cut aluminum... after 2 years of upgrades, testing, and tuning.
00:00-1:00 CNC Trailer
1:00-2:41 Project Intro + Goals
2:41-6:16 CNC Upgrades V1
6:16-8:26 CNC Upgrades V2
8:26-10:33 CNC Upgrades V3
10:33-12:24 Final CNC cutting like butter
12:24-12:59 Outro
CNC V3 Final Upgrades:
Genmits...
thats why I think bettter choise is qeenbee pro you go straing with linear rails ,ball screws close loop steppers you can order steppers with rotation control no skipping issues.
500x500 and it can by scale up by 500
so this is everything but spoil board and spindle?
should iget my own nema 23s?
oh nvm
theirs are fine
they give you more options what you want chose
event speend with ER collets witch are more precise
so i need my own controller, spoil board, and spindle. anything else?
i always forget about shipping
- mechanical kit
- chosse controler
- spindle with ER collet is better as woodworking router
- spindle holder
- motors and right drivers (close loops)
- mist cooling and air system (good to have)
-size if i have to chose 1500wide you can put inside full size material board.
AVID CNC is from Canada .they have near to same machine.
you needed 2?
ok
current draw is higher ,becouse you push tool in material.
3veryome does
ļæ”11.27 18ļ¼
Off | FYSETC PET Dual Carbon Fiber and Textured PEI JANUS BPS-PET PLATE Steel Sheet with Magetic base for Ender 3/5 pro CR10 PRUSA Voron
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0MiPIC
They have the E5+ build pates now
Sorry
its ok
I mean the build surface
bigger fish to fry atm
The milo whatever Hector had I want
What you doing atm
Tea it's food
They have 4 different stores
atm i need 6 steppers and leadscrewsš
Good not food
Bigger Is better
I bet this means we are one step closer the the zero g 370x377 kit
That pei has been out for months...
zerog kit has been talked about
Not with the carbo on tho
not sure of the status
Fysetc official. Fysetc first store.
Fysetc ... store too
Then some other xjiy one
Yee
the carbon fiber plates are pretty new @vocal terrace
I got 1 for my friend a month ag9
Look at the other atores
Not e5+ but was option
I looked before too
Pet carbon?
They must have been out of stock or I just missed it
Who else is building the enclosure???
Guess u gotta kiss me
Owao
My stance is the frame is dog shit. I'm not buying new one.
My stock is poo
Build the less fame mod š
But vengeful made cool machine
Gonna Tap and drill from here where got 2.4 frame
i am 60 glasses done....just 100 more
I'm also gonna downsize to e5 pro size
Vengeful we can get married
We know best married
Lucky you
hey each pair sells for $35
Shit! That better than crypto then
My 2.4 is 350mm anyway
cost is only like $1.50 a glass
Thatās not what she said
this job paid for the laser and the type-v
Ur mom
and then some
Lucky bugger
Ur dad
Call me daddy
My wife has other things on the order as well, flowers and other things as well
we should be able to deliver by RMRRF
What is RMRRF
The Rocky Mountain RepRap Festival 2023- RMRRF 2023! 3D Printing and more!
Lol
@naive swan @deep vine @dawn vapor If ur gonna buy youmetong rails msg their store before.
They will do a deal
That looks class, I wish I could go
Also took them 7 days to ship my 14 rails
They are small China business so I'm happy
Btt I'm waiting to msg on monday
Oh nice, howād you know
I saved 150 bucks recently doing this.
Was told by someone
Most stuff 8s like this
Mine were a little more than the robotdigg black which tend to degrade faster cause black
im stocked on rails unfortunately
Where did you get ur rails?
Wait let me guess
Fabreeeekoh
?
where returns are not a problem!
So you essentially bought random cheap Chinese ones
Have you had any problems with them?
no problems but you have to clean and inspect
so you can return
if you have any problems
Iāve got them!
the thing is you get them quick
I had to replace the carriage blocks after 6 months
not the best choice but its convenient
Somtimes thatās all I care about
did you do a full cleaning?
I do so anyways
Youmetong is good for that
i ultra sonic the blocks and regrease all the bearings
The original ones I did not, but on the new ones, I removed carriage and flushed them out with new grease,
not the process @vocal terrace likes but it works for me....lol
It dmg rails
I wish I had space for an ultrasonic
Yes but either I'd bad
450 to 500mmm
Cause it creates poars
No I new that
Get one meant for rings
Really?
a small ultrasonic cost less than 50usd
Hopefully we move into a bigger place next year
Then Iāll have a man cave like you
Bruh why it take first pic in
Thats a ultrasonic
I did rails before then learner
these rails though didn't
I love these
got them recently
very nice
I had some slight issues getting panels to fit, some I had to trim down by about 2-3mm
And acrylic is not pleasant to cut
agree, it can be a pain
ok i ordered some tr8x2 leadscrews
@deep vine posted it earlier
it got buried
day 2 for tryna do first print
i havent even printed in 2 days maybe 3
Alright ordered the new style steppers. Will shift the ones i have to the z for hydra.
thats what i am doing since i have 3 of the same
@dawn vapor i test fit with 605ZZ and its too loose. F695-RS it is
they are tight clearance
Man flu
lol i had some extra cash so why not
@dawn vapor never use that prob
for the p[robe
that is stupid copnnector
If any u guys gonna do tap just msg me I can help.
@vocal terrace do i only cut the trace if im using 5v? On the tap pcb? Any reason not to use 24v. Im using the hartk 2pc pcb and if i can i wanted to leave the extra 5v probe header for a 5v toolhead fan.
I'm very active in the tap channel
Don't cut it
I'd just keep as 24V
Take photo of pcb
and ur credit card
Cool. I ended up buying the new tap pcb
v2.4.1?
So i could have the extra 5v header
Just an FYI
Tap is getting new ugpraed
theres more stuf nded pinned to msg in that channel
new pcb pog
I meeda get 1
@naive swan I think XOL2 is something u should try!
Better extruder support. Tap is suppiorted. beacon. ALot of shit
XOL2?
Mantis XOL2
Xol2 is pretty nice, my trident has one of those
I have seen it in metal and thatās all I care about
Dual part fan would be nice as well
there are some stl's
At least one of my printers will have a stealth burner
all I see is there hotend mounts
and extruder
and mgn9/12
Perfect
Glad I could help you out
US $13.80 8ļ¼
Off | Mellow CNC All Metal Vz-Hextrudort-Low/WC Extruder With 8T/10T Motor One Shaft Twirl Gear For VzBoT 330 VZ235 HevORT 3D Printer
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOhjkKy
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
Oh and there is an ebb36 mount with that one too
nice
I ordered the tap cnc,
I spoke with CL and they told me they are aware of some units having play and this is because of there supplier sent out a batch of rails with incorrect preload. All the new units will be double checked before sent out
Any ways, they apparently have made some revisions and even if not, then I donāt have to worry about this component warping when heat soaked
mine haven't warped
CNC tap can't justify with the MGn7
Iām guna print couple of these
How long it take u guysx to do a PA test?
Is that a btt pi?
THE 2.4 IS ALIVE!!!!!
Yeah, I havenāt tested it out yet tho
2.4 ME STILL BUILDING
alot of parts to print
I have it built and fired it up tested leds etc
jsut not enough time in the day/week
just ran probe accuracy dev 0.001912
fin ally got bed screws back to 1,1,1
Strange screw tilt says 1.1.1 but height map says
trying too get mine to print
print job is horriable
@naive swan fyi aliexpress sale rn
Bearings are there
9mm belts
canbus
klicky pcb
Will these work for the M5?
@vocal terrace finally watched the episode. Thats a wild premise lol
Fire though right
Still have to get caught up with Mercury. Yeah i like it. Quite a few good shows this season
Also F695-RS and F695-2RS are basically the same bearing?
You might need to make the hole deeper but yes
I think so
Do the bom I put good 1s
No, this is the one I have https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004264826360.html
It uses usb c
Are you building one?
I'm gonna contact a local shop about getting them to possibly buy a Cocopress
I have 1 already.
all my rails are clean now, @dawn vapor i have to make a decision. Start the hydra conversion or work on the steppers(still waiting on my gates belts)
Stepper conversation so it doesnāt bend anymore
Lol
Work on steppers?
yeah but that requires removing the belts, and mine wont work if i do
they are streached
new S55 steppers to reduce the bend of the shaft
Ur shafts shouldn't be getting bent.
Like a voron doesn't even get bent Shafts
U probably needed to adjust ur pulley.
It makes stuff look weird if u don't adjust the pulleys.
Yea. I have a 2.4 and also same machine
too much torque applied
Mine wasn't ever like that
has to do with how the M1 was designed
Eww
End of the day it mean you get better numbers on input shaper that can result in higher accels
Yea those motors will be good
AWD is gonna be mine
U should build a k3 next
Not railcore k3 is way cooler
im going CNC vs another printer
Yeah seeing at how difficult its becoming to find someone to cnc lexan/plexiglass i think im going to build a cnc as well. However i think im going MPCNC so i can just buy/build a few parts at a time
For stepper towers you designing them to hang instead of bolt on top?
Yea but why do that.
G6 Precision is the play.
500mm is like 20 cad. Then u just cut urself
Fits the bearings perfectly
Actually fits them unlike screws with their loose ass
whay @vocal terrace you lost me
I was thinking captive as screw.... like foron for bearings
I want to come up with something fun to put at the end of the shaft.
@naive swan do you have any plans to update the eclosure for anyone running the newer rear motor mounts? can i replace my newer mounts with yours to run your enclosure?
the cad is not released for m1.1, when that happens i can make a version of it. However it will still require reprinting the mounts(this question is usually related to that) since the mounts become part of the enclosure. At that point M1 or M1.1 mounts are basically the same thing aside from the belt pattern layout is tweeked
Yes you can run the rear steppers from this build, they just wont have the extra shim in the bearing stack
additionally(and coincidently) the discussion above is about the rear steppers and how we are incorporating beefier steppers and bearings for the shaft on the mount to allow for the added torque
this will be optional of course
you could drive a gear with them and transfer the power to a spining emblem or something
i did see that. and i see why it would help but for starters it seems just going to the older mounts wont affect anything motion system wise. well looks like i have a lot to print now lol.
If you keep your current steppers. Check out my mod to add a bearing to the left one to help with side loads!
Im a fan of out of control pressure gauges so maybe something like that driven by stepper gear lol
should i work on the pocket still?
Up to you, personally i donāt think we need it? Im a big fan of symmetry and having a stepper with a pocket is way more of a change than the pillow bearing added to it.
It is your awesome design though so def. Respect your design choices
Just trying to be helpful on function
true its just more confusing, does it work without the bearing?
It works but im not sure in the stepper working lifespan
The last steppers i broke at the shaft could have been just creality flukes? They where on the y axis of an ender 3 max with less of an end load
if it doesnt work i need to change it, this was all cuased by and when i changed the top plate to be 5mm thicker
Which was what originally brought up my concern
Well if its pockets do both? That doesnāt mess with overall case right? What was original reason for beefing up thickness?
well i have 2 options then(3 if i include the max power mod).
1 add a 5mm pocket to make it stock dimensions
2 add the pillow bearing as the stock option
3 force max power s55 steppers as stock
If you do retool them, might be benefit to also shave off a bit on the top side of bearing stacks to account for new bearing setup? I think i ended up taking off .8mm.
it was beefed up because i had to isolate the front wall to avoid an ackward printing orientation with supports
im torn on the shim in the bearing stack. its kinda an obfuscation of a bigger problem...bent frame
As far as options id go with 3 force new steppers. I think in the long term theyll be more functional for whatever upgrades you think of and they are priced the same. In the midterm retool currents as a jump in point to keep initial cost down? At the moment i came in looking for just the merc mod and dove head first into your case.
I havenāt ran my setup. The shims made sense because the belts looked like they are just right sizing wise so it made sense to give them a little room to play. I would ask. What direction are you wanting to go in
i think v2 will be max power forced
A mod to a junk frame or a ground up build
yeah true
If were going ground up i need to buy some extrusions lol
If its a junk frame i think it could be addressed in the build instructions and adding countermeasures like the bearing stack config
my main goal is to extend the utility of this printer
Im anticipating doing skew corrections at the end of my build either way lol
if we scrape the frame we are working against that mission
Have you done that btw to see if you had bad skew?
no
I mean whats so nice about all of this is we can āmake it workā i still get pretty good prints im def. Happy with as is
And thats with a crap load of initial tuning and skew correction
Im looking for improved utility on asa and abs material printing out of your case
at this point i want to make sure these builds are true to the normal use case. someone has an e5+ and they want to print abs and be happy with the way the printer looks and performs
Version 0 is supposed to do that
Version 1 will add the tri stepper
I think this is a happy medium from entry to full boar vzbot/voron/ratrig
Which is why im mostly active in your build lol
and Version 2 will start working on issues and full redesigns
ie side mounted y rails
beefey rear mounts
If the power steppers are a way off though ima start modding current design to use them as i need to move the current ones to the z.
And im just about done with my prints to assemble. Been making wire loom from scratch
i think those will be a "mod" for now that will become required later
Ayeš«”
umbilical?
can or no?
Yeah. Really rethinking the CAN every time i crimp
No can as of now
But i think im just toolhead board away from CAN? Got raspi 4b, octopus pro. I dont think i meed can adaptor for that?
Hmm maybe i should scrap current toolhead. 4 wires instead of the 18+ lol
thats where i started
my laser job is almost done
i have 10hrs left
as soon as i clear that i will start the max power mod
Does your toolhead have an integrated driver
and possibly the side y
it does
thats the reason i can run the skr2
BTT EBB SB2240 CAN bus PCB for Stealthburner w/ Harness and Connectors
https://west3d.com/products/btt-ebb-sb2240-can-bus-pcb-for-stealthburner
In for a penny š
36
just ask @vocal terrace about that one
i hear good things about sb2040