#Ender 5 Plus - Mercury 1 (Classic) with Stealth Burner and New Enclosure Project
1 messages · Page 8 of 1
It's the boop mod
Og yea just that size
Vengeful u should order some raindew bearings fyi
if i go crucible it will have can bus lol
C$ 2.99 | ISO 14580 M3 Titanium screws M3x4 M3x5 M3x6 M3x8 M3x9 M3x10 M3x12 Torx T10 Driver Socket Cap Head Ti GR2 QCTI Screw
https://a.aliexpress.com/_msMygcU
Send link idk crucible
I ordered more titanium screws for my v2.4
I may go lightbar
Bruh that thing
lol
oh titanium, im out, not for me
I do it for my lightbars
I am doing CF tube. I am not unscrewing so It better be good
they are great and you get up to 60C chamber with ease
im tempted to get a backer on my x
I Have em
No point prob for u.
Unless u actually heatsoak
since these e5+ are huge
i heatsoak
kinda
i mean i cant really
beacon overheats
if i do it properly
you have to scan as soon as the bed is up to temp
Does beacon hhave a relay to turn off?
no
That's sas
Sad
It could be way better that way but temp would prob be issue
Im going klicky from now on prob
it gets bad readings after it heats up to 60C+
Vengeful order bearings I linked tooo!!!!!
They are good ones
I'm assuming u have Amazon ones
U should get youmetong rails next too
Price for me
usd
you can do a heat up to 110c and a cold hotend(and part fan at 100%) with bed -100mm from the beacon. then its a race
ztilt then bed mesh then heatsoak , then hotend heatup, then purge and print
Yea but the bed will shift with heat
Even with a kinematic bed mount.
yeah its not great but the reading get bad if you let the beacon get hot first
but it works for me
Yea I don't think I'll go beacon
its not needed unless you have a huge bed
and even then i think that depends on the printer
Yea but heatsisking big important
going on voron chat
I'm going to bed keke
Needa figure out though later if aWD works with 9mm belts
Omg omg omg so many good animes came out today fuckkkkkk
4...
5 maybe
Penis life
Real ones know
Lol
Im doing tap on my current build
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@naive swan
which printer?
U should order rails from youmetong
Z2. It's 15.5 a piece for switchwire
The one im using all your parts from. Type Z on 5 Plus. I had already printed out all the merc 1.1 stuff when i saw your build. Now im printing all your files.
@vocal terrace konosuba?
Well i know you didn’t link konosuba
But have either of you seen that series. The movie was hilarious
tap may be a problem if you are using the stock bed
Anime: Kono Subarashii Sekai ni Shukufuku wo!: Kurenai Densetsu
Plzz dont mind the in between scene cuts....have to do to prevent copyright
Got two beds incoming. Got someone to hook me up with some toolplate aluminum and tapped for hydra. Also going to try and snag either a mic6 or atp5 from fabreko
Because im unsure of the quality on the free one but frees free
Also the sucubus episode of konosuba is pog
Not may will
Watched eps 1 release day
Both printers I have are 350mm
F
Why F ?
bigger = slower movement
yea that's ok
Alot of hats
Do u swap filaments?
yes but I use a clip and its way down in the roll
have to waste all this filemament
had to cut it out
It could be ur clip.
yea
Try talking to someone like @sterile pond ideally if u still have box for a few. See if a batch issue
Think im going im going to build a re-spooler
spool the rolls myself
I got it re-printing again
threw out the bad spot of filament
Credit First
I took the really cool design from kpawel and TheTimetraveler then modified it for my purposes.
Original Quote
The main idea was that the square holes have a 27% wider opening surface without letting the round particles fall through any easier (the holes are still 1.5mm wide). Also a sphere and a square hole can never form a seal un...
hopefully these print well in abs plus
i need like 5 of them
nice I will print some
it printed like crap last time i tried
oh
but i will make my own if i need too
ill give it a shot
needs support and cant be printed that fast i guess
I could see where the filament was tangled
i had to unwind like 10ft of it
cut it out
noiw its printing same roll
hopefully it don't have anymore tangles
Steve Builds is streaming the merc 1 build
Well he is doing merc1.1
yep
how do you have them?
have them ?
in a filament dryer
as its printing
its tangled in the roll itself
just pitched it in the garbage 3/4 of a roll
just wasted 4 hour print again
probaly just a bad roll
where did you purchase them from
lol
out of stock every where
bought 6 rolls
no your raspberry pi
Dont get pis too much. Orange pi 3 lts is way cheaper and can run multiple board
I paid 35 per PI 4
have you seen the big tree tech cb1
yes
do you know anything about them?
in stock at microcenter
i just ordered one other week
do you know if we can run the can board from them to our canbus tool heads
@mild hinge i just seen you backing vengies design on youtube lol
i prefer this one over dutchs new design
which version
vengfuls over the new merc one
steves frame looks better than the stock E5+ tho
no creality metal
dam hotend is clogged
have to cool is off too take it apart
1st clog in a long time
see if 260 will un clog it 1st
nope too clogged i guess
Itz e5 pro or e5 i veljeve. Also if you need to add corner get the k3 style
from fabreeko?
same kit i have
dang no .4mm needsles thought i had some left
Getting closer, I wish I had another printer, I’m only able to print one set of parts per day with work and busy doing other things
You on @mild hinge
L I have a E3v2 for a reason.
What is the reason?
Lol
Better be a good reason
So I can always have a printer working
That’s the only reason my e3v2 has not been stored
I don’t think there is any difference between your v2 and my e3
Jelly unless he dropped linear rails on it, you have a maxed out e3
Do you print abs on yours?
I could but I don’t
I was thinking about this
Either wobble x or switch wire conversion
Yeah it’s the last step before any other mods take it past a point of just being a custom printer
Which one should I do?
Wobble x looks really good actually
Look like a solid way to quickly remove any z banding
Which I have on bot printers
Both
Ah I see, I assume this is just a better version of belting your z
Meaning I different option available to you
My V2 doesn't work because it isn't stable. My e3 os
Wobble x I'd go if didn't have old hams
Idc anymoee
It was designed originally for the heavy duty z screws, (can’t remember what their correct name is)
But for hydra, they look good, not being belted
What are the hams like
Do you have to keep living them
Old ham coupling
They aren't bad but wobble x better
Okay so switchwire or wobble x?
For the best abs printing E3
Belted z is better. I'm not switchwire yet. Wobble I'd do foe my lead screw printers
So I take it lead screws in general are just not great,
Then hydra would be better if belted
I seen someone was working on this
But it didn’t look like a good design because there was no gearing
Ball screws
Ball screws are best if price doesn’t matter
On the e3 belt is best because of its integration with everything else
The wobble seems like a bed lifter solution
Hydra would be better with wobble x
But it is already kinematic so I don’t know how that will interact
On trident this could be good
there is realy low chance to need wobble x with , bearing on top and good alignment on motor shaft.
I think it makes a lot of sense on something like @twilit edge build with the dual z linear rails
I could see the combo being to top tier of dual z
That looks rather interesting
Also a quad stepper/linear rails ender 5 plus is interesting with wobble x
Using the fabreeko mic6 bed, since it has the 4 stock holes
kekw me
buy not anymore
I like the fabreeko mic6 bed
What
didnt realize what u ssaid
Ok
rechecking bed height ( map ) a bit high on one side
Anybody checked out the new Sparkel ASA yet
bruh they fully did it?
they had steve do a sneak peak
oh
peek
it looks very ZeroG though, not bad for that skirt style
Im using creality's frame
I wont
wasn't ripping it all apart
I already got it emnt
https://a.co/d/djMkALt picked these up last night
I have 2 of them from home depot
fingers crossed, i think they can hold 4 rolls airtight
mine holds 4 too
i like sterilite, so fingers crossed
nothing wrong them
those are big
i want these to be as compact as possible
for me its for opened
polylite has resealable bags
yep
but not everything is polylite
correct
ok my next canister has started
I really need to get rid of this creality tenyt
supports on what
the slica canister
if they had the step, i would have fixed all these issues
for the canister
true
liek the 1st one better
i saw those , not liking that
correct
Silica Gel Regenerate Jar
pretty cool
i like this one
The Esun abs+ really doesn’t like them sharp hot corners does it
hell no, but all my filament is doing it
@naive swan you like the https://www.printables.com/model/421756-silica-gel-regenerate-jar/comments .....me to oI downloaded the files
Even the ASA?
well i havent checked that yes
ok back to printing latches
Mabey there a setting for fan on small perimeter
looks good, but i was going to just drop them in the filament dryer
vhb tape or 1mm foam ?
with the bottle
for panels
i use vhb on clips and mounts
foam on flat panel to frame areas
im heading up to kb3d monday
for?
layer 3 and i already have curling.....
@naive swan KB-3D u can buy a shit ton of bulk spool from.
yea i need to get more asa filament black/red
that sparkle red looks kinda neat
sparkle black looks cool too
Glitter infused Ideal for everyday printing and delivers high quality surface finishes High accuracy diameter and smooth windings Vacuum sealed bag with desiccant bag Made from 100% Grade A virgin non-toxic raw materials Diameter: 1.75mm (+/-0.03) Net weight: 1kg Recommended Extrusion Temperature: 230°C-250°C Build Pla
ABS+
ok ordered 24M of belt
nice
layer 5 so far so good
i resliced and turned down speed back to 90
I printed that already
need the circulation of heat
yeah i should do that for now
did yo usee the nevermore max yet ?
thats my filament get ur own
lol
L its 2 hours away from me
I can print it just to much hassle to source the parts. Once a kit is out I might do it
Also I think I am going to try the quad gantry wobble x using the fabreeko mic6 bed
yea
I dont have the 500mm rails
The rails I have are 450
So Ill probaly pass on it
the voron 2.4r2 enough for 1 qlp is fine with me
question I just noticed that the pressure advance is not transferring from the slicer into klipper
is there something I'm missing
I thought pressure advance was set up in klipper and not in slicer.
Also. Any issues with the toothed gear on stepper thats almost at the tip of the shaft (hehe) causing shaft to bend? (Haha) ?
i copy the slicer code into the klipper dashboard
I found the klipper setting for some reason it changed to 0.0
So I changed the value back
time for some lego building while 3d printer is printing
Looking good @deep vine
What size locking ring collet is that on the Stealthburner ptfe. Ive been looking for one that fits
Also working on a preventive measure for the rear left stepper, im weary that because the toothed drive gear sits so far down the shaft we could have the shaft start to deform. What im thinking is two of these. uxcell F5-10M Thrust Ball Bearings 5mm x 10mm x 4mm Chrome Steel Single Direction 4pcs https://a.co/d/fXdrlWt and a printed spacer that would have the bearings help shaft keep its shape. I know thrust bearings are more for a back and forth motion and i should really be going for a pillow block type solution but my cad skills are severely lacking at the moment. If i could come up with something it would most likely involve 3 heat inserts into the side the opposite side the stepper bolts onto and a spot to insert a flanged bearing like on the bearing stacks to create a pillow block.
Maybe over thinking it but ive had a few shafts break on the ender 3’s y and suspect it has to do with how far that gear sits from the end.
im not sure, it came in the ercf BOM
oooh thats sounds good!
Remember pulleys cab be adjusted too
Is that a reply to my post?
yee. but the frame is just issue in genral
Maybe im not seeing what else i could do? Im trying to account for the extra force on the stepper toothed gear thats almost 7 mill out of shaft.
I think this is because @naive swan had to increase the thickness of the top plate to increase strength and make it more reliable to print
A possible fix could be to recess the stepper down a few mm
You are correct on them being thicker than original.
Recess doesn’t sound aesthetically pleasing though
As well as they would mess with the enclosure
I think two bearings and a spacer would strengthen the part enough though
It shouldn’t affect the enclosure, just the stepper will sit slightly lower
Them bearings you posted won’t stope the shaft from bending because they are designed to take vertical load not horizontal. We need to find a different method
It would be better to design into this top plate a mount for a 605 bearing to sit just above the toothed gear
Also check this out
Right thats why im also looking at how to implement a pillow block bearing. That would help stop side load.
shoot
that is not a good idea
that looks beautiful
i could recess just the stepper
im thinkin a stepped recess or maybe some removable supports? what are you guys thinking?
i can build down anything i cut out
well no i cant, dang
one of the pins is in the way
i can make that area 5mm thick again
@dawn vapor im sorry for the goof on this, i agree with you this give to much room for shaft flex
the stock merc 1 mount was 2mm and this is 7mm i want to make it zero
even steppers with a longer shaft would cause this problem
since it can apply more leverage
im thinking a pocket of 2 on the right and 7 on the left
Hey no big check this out
Those two combined
The bearing is from an axis wheel
My jank tinkercad skills lol
Interesting
So you insert this and it keeps the shaft stiff?
It’s basically a pillow block bearing. Meant to keep axial forces at bay
So does this require 605zz?
My initial thought was to use thrust bearings with a spacer
I have a few of those
That would make the shaft stiffer sandwich between motor and toothed bearing
But as jelly says those are for back and forth or in and out motion
You should have like thirty of those wheels lol
Oh lol
Should be a press fot when assembled
Fit*
Weather itll be stiff enough is another thing. I think the whole assembly i made might be too small but thats the concept
I think even tightenning or closing up the whole the stepper moves into and putting a bearing there would be better than recessing stepper
Its just moving fulcrum so the forces for bend aren’t so far out
Ok follow me on this, then i put a cut out for 605zz in the plate leave a slight lip and any time the shaft wants to bend the bearing holds
On the bearing I wouldn’t have thought of this at all
I mean its a bit more refined. Again tinkercad skills
Actually possibly flipped so no falling out
If your integrating into your design
I was thinking maybe we flip the stepper or get long shaft steppers
They long shaft would still need support no?
Or is the body longer to counter balance?
Also if we get long shat we can put bearings on both sides
That would be the way
Shaft*
I always wondered why those parts had the big holes in em. I thought they might have been going in that direction
Yeah the even on the stock design this was a problem
Ok just need to source nema 17s with a slightly longer shaft
Like 20mms more
Let me measure
Here is stock
Dimensions
I hope it’s steady enough
The left stepper is the main culprit
I think this something I really want to resolve all the way
if we drop a 605zz on top and bottom plus a stepper with a 50mm shaft then is problem goes away permanently
as for the concern of horizontal vs vertical, the force would be applied in the exact way the bearing is designed to have force applied
not it but this could do it
bingo!!!!
man thats beefy
and its ldo
it is a .9
but its a beast
also the cut out is exactly where we need it
here are specs
Ok in the meantime my design failed me lol but
@dawn vapor what do you think?
why did it fail?
I dont think we need to worry about shaft moving up and down as much as trying to bend
too thic?k
Failed because the legs i had going out to supports did not have enough to grab on to to keep it in place
i think those steppers are the answer
We don’t even need a bearing nearest the stepper
The stepper has one at the head. Just need one at end of shaft
we may need to go to f695 though
good point
if we add one at the bottom then problem solved
im going to bite the bullet and order 2 of those steppers
i think you are on to something
I really think only ones needed
But if its a version setup id go with two on the BOM
Just for ease of shopping
i think we call this op version
And setup both stepper mounts to be same with bearings
If i was buying this and starting out yeah id go for two of the linger shafts but atm. Saving money lol
Too short on one yes
on left
Yep
ok i well release a cutout version then
with a removable support that brings it back to stock
height
the pocket will be 5mms deep
the left will still wobble slightly
i can go 7 deep but it might cause a different problem
Put voron on back burner ...going to start printing updated parts for the merc 1.1
Id rather add the pillow block into the part which is the direction i think im headed until i get a longer shaft stepper
Id go 1- longer shaft stepper 2 pillow block 3 recessed pocket
Are those stock steppers?
It has a 2-3mm undersize
Nvm*
No these are normal nema 17s
those ldos are the solution here but to your point i need 2 options
i can make 7mm recess for you but stock will be 5mm
@dawn vapor does that work?
7mm stepper recess? Nah don’t do extra work for me. Im just going to add that pillow block im pretty confident that it will solve any of my bent shaft worries. Then ill move over to the long shaft stepper when you get that sorted.
well i just need to extrude down 2mm more
That moves the fulcrum way closer to the gear and that should be more than enough to keep it from bending
ok
alright i think the screws will need to change again
with 5mm pocket
nvm they will stay M3*25mm SHCS on those
i will extrude the hole dow as well
@dawn vapor do you have 20mm screws?
other wise the bottom plate will need to be reprinted as well
I do
ok, didnt realize there was an update
perfect
i will get the updates out tommorow and order the steppers right now
No it looks good
@naive swan will it make any difference if i have one 1.8 an one .9 stepper as long as i set up correctly in klipper?
Its like you have r2d2 in your home. I could watch this on loop for a while lol
Ah screw it ima get two of those steppers as well. Move the ones i have to my z for when i do the hydra mod.
Also f695 bearings. Going to pick some more up.
I think it will be a problem
Lol yeah it’s because I turned of interpolation
I’m going to try f695 and 605zz but both should work
F695 has the lip which will be nice
But 605zz is beefy
Also steppers are ordered and took an opportunity to order a revo .4mm nozzle
You legend!
I am interested in the remote stepper idea. Have you considered coupling it with a longer drive shaft instead of trying to buy a stepper with one?
I think if maintaining current positions then space is an issue.
And revisions are needed lol should have a working prototype tonight.
it would require a lot of compromise to accommodate the coupler. Honestly since the idea is we are adding the long shaft to make it stronger, it seems fitting that the stepper being used is also way stronger. I think we already have a problem with the e5+ being too big and this solves those issues
i think i am also going to take this oppurtunity to stiffening braces, the look of the rear steppers is going to change some what
Are you doing both bottom parts to accommodate the longer stepper shafts? Also the files are missing the bottom skirt clips to secure bottom plate. The trident versions work fine but the sides where the fans are, they are not the same size (possibly due to scaling?) as the rest. Ive already fixed them ill post them up when i get home.
ah i missed the clips i will load them soon
both will get the long stepper since they are .9 and are way stronger(high Torque)
looks like 4 simple clips and 2 hinges
Correct not sure if you edited the clips but the ones that mount on the fan holders seem to be a bit too long if you use the stock trident part. Thats the part i fixed.
Also. Little elbow grease to make it work but heres my bed
8mm thick and i have to drill out holes a bit
interesting, that part was not modified at all
the fan holder is stock
It bolts on fine but when you tighten it down the curvature of the area it bolts to makes the part tilt
hmm
Wait, isn’t this rectangular. I’ve just ordered all clear acrylic and black acrylic panels, I hope the dimensions are okay on the cad file.
yeah
😵
well crap
the only problem would be if they are too big
to small is wont be a problem
why
Theres always sandpaper
that would be better than too small
they are zero clearance on the cad
i cant add material
You could water them until they grow
agree too small wont be a problem
I really need a cnc machine
all parts have an acceptable varince down of 2mm
The maker space by me wanted to charge me 200 bucks to cut a few panels
up is the problem
or a laser...
screw that
Im about to hit the next door app and see if any neighbors have a dusty cnc machine they wouldnt mind using or letting me use for a few bucks
my laser can do 24*24 inches
all the panels cut cost mee £100
3d print a cnc
And i got that free build plate but now i need to counter bore the holes and also drill it for the standard e5+
Plate looks good. Gotta figure out how to check total flatness and how to properly clean the back
how thick can it cut?
thiccc
?
You can paint it and then etch is about it right
you would need a c02 laser
correct
im not doing jet pack because i will do hydra in the future
Same thing on glass
looks familiar hmmm.🤨
lol
Ok one more set and I’m done with this
did it fail again?
they look good
which tesla do you drive?
I do not
i was i guess that crypto mining is paying off then haha
which is better the eton or mach e
not bad
Uh the Mach e is more like a Tesla
You can’t really tell the Etron is electric
It’s nicer than the Mach e
Just not as many features
can you explain what it is tho im confused about CW2, galileo etc.
Galileo 1 has metal versions available
Just different dimensions
Cw2 was made for SB
Cw1 was AB
because i was thinking about building the CW2 should i wait for galileo
I already see some CNC parts for CW2 light weight
so galileo is just a metal version of clockwork
Mamsih/Galileo-stealthBurner: Galileo extruder for stealthBurner
Looks like main difference is no 50:10 gear ratio
I have try find some comparison between CW2 and galileo but I cant find anything only SB and AB version.
Galileos don’t have a gear ratio
ou then I have already build CW1 on AB
the galileo is based on the orbiter components
Yeah it’s obsolete now
It’s basically the same thing as cw2
Except cw2 has more torque
ahh i see
that makes sense now, so im thinking the only upgrade possible for the galileo 2 is this helical gearing onthe hevort?
do you think voron will go this method?
When I take it only from mechanic side you will have only more precise rotation between both gears. improvment in short moves can be expect. but nothing more.
Theres aluminum cw2 ??
Any aluminum Stealthburner?
Just ab options
just motor plate :/
Oh nice
and x cariage light w8 in alu
X carriage is a problem for me
@naive swan did you cut your own panels or have them made?
Made them
I made them
these only have helical on the gears and not the fillament teeth
Newest Oblique Tooth High Precision MK3s+ Dual Drive Gear Hardened Steel Nickel Plating 5mm bore Compatible with Creality CR10S PRO DDB Extruder Prusa i3 MK3 MK2/MK2S/MK2.5 MK3S+ 3D Printer https://a.co/d/aran8fa
Like this?
yes exactly, do you think this will make a difference?
Nope
that is what the hexdrovort has
I don’t like being a naysayer but this is not normally a problem
he claims it can prevent certain artifacts
I’m not sure how that is
better grip on the filament
yeah but that wont change it much
centers the teeth and fillament better
i guess, but lets be honest how that be noticeable
every little improvment helps i guess
nah
probably only noticeable when printing really fast tho
it can prevent it only while lots of retractions and helica gears must be on driving gear (there is now gap between gears)
if you pay more for it, you could spend that money on upgraded steppers or better drivers
well that makes sense, so there is still going to be back lash
agree
i dont see a scenario where it would not be part of a $300-600 upgrade
to get the tiny benefit
48v, high power steppers, better drivers, bigger belts, rails, pulleys etc
And cnc mounts
But its not streight way to go ....
sounds like type Z v2 to me...
Nah
🙃
I don’t think the creality frame could take full advantage of all of that
i manged a 17 minute benchy on my merc1.1 with eva and bust a set of stepper mounts
yeah, less weight mean higher accels
Yeah but strength helps the equation there
High accels on the merc mounts are held back by the shaft flex on the steppers
Speaking of which, is that the fix for the over strained shaft prose have
@naive swan Do you have installed kinematic bed mount kit on your trident ?
Longer shafts?
No
I’m working on standard mounts
I will see what it takes to put kinematics on the mod
its full metal upgrade with slides on bed "can thermal expand while warming"
Yeah I have seen it
I May pick up a kit to try it after some research
If it works on stock trident parts then it should work on the type v
I am still not sure if go it or no. I never see some comparison before and after installation. how bed warping
Yeah not sure if it’s much benefit
Right now my main priority is get tri stepper z on both versions
So I can start v2
That will have many upgrades and adds
Final revision. Needs support for the stepper hollow. Needs a bearing from a pom wheel as thats all i had handy. Its push fit. Allows room for adjustment but this will work until new stepper mount designs and minimum cost for the time being.
great!
In full swing now
3 down…. 165 left to go
1.25 a glass
35 a glass
Paint is cheap
Too cheap
Not bad for 60hrs of work
Ah cool you airbrush. I haven’t in about two years but i think i was pretty good
That used to be my work
that looks very good
Lol here is my backlog
havent built in few years, let alone paint
I see yours and i raise you a 3d of mine
Also back on topic
I had to sand some shims down but i got the bearing stacks configured to what current spec is of shim-bearing-shim-bearing-shim
that looks good
i have my parts coming in tomorrow, hydra kit, plate, heater, bearings, ge5cs
steppers get here on thursday
after this, i will be ready to build type v and go hydra on type z
Does this require both pieces reprinting or just the top?
Just the top
Just the side the stepper attaches to.
Your talking specifically the bearing on the stepper right. Thats just the top part where stepper sits. Thats all you have to reprint.
Just because you have Added an extra shim in between bearings
Oh no didnt reprint. Just measured all my shims and found any that measured under .70mm and used those.
I had to sand a few to get them to fit
Otherwise the two half’s wont mate properly
Did this hoping to not have issues with the belts getting eaten
Going to look at shaving a mm off the bearing stack entry points on the top where the stepper sits
So i can use the normal 1mm shims the merc bom uses
For ur enjoyment
Their engineer doesn't know how to consult a pin diagram or their manual
ohh snap, that makes sense
Yes. They didn't say correct direction in their support. Also they didn't even place the heatsink in the correct spot
It's not supposed to be on the stm32 chip
@vocal terrace did you send them this pic?
No they sent me it
hopefully they wil send you a new one seeing as tho there no instructions to say which way
Yes there is. They are wrong. Look at the photos I sent of instructions. It's the correct way there. U can't mount it any other way
yeah its supposed to be on the tmc
the instructions look right to me
yeah but that picture they sent isnt
oh shit the email they sent, is wrong ofcourse. i thought the where demonstrating how not to.. lol
lol I dodged a bullet on the SB2240 it seems
What thickness acrylic sheets you guys using
2.5mm
You happen to have a source?
Havent worked with that before. How did you cut?
Also are you making a mod repository for your cases? I changed out the logo on the trident air filter/case. Going to be adding that to my build
its acrylic 1/4inch i think
yes
i put instructions on how to add
table saw with plexi blade
i ordered 3mm
I’m going to not use the U2C and wire the can tool head directly to the main board
Nice
My board can’t do that
I noticed only some boards have this feature, I have octopus pro. So I thought it’s better to have one less complicated part to go wrong
What board you got?
Skr2
when you going manta? 😉
Lol I don’t need to
I have skr2s paired with can give me 6 steppers
So both of these will be skr 2 until i work on quad gantry
ahh was going to ask about hyrdra upgrade regarding extra stepper
Hydra prints started
What are you putting hydra in again? And did you solve the bed falling when printer powered off?
When using a pcb on sb can you not use direct drive?
Type z v1 and no but Tri stepper will solve it
What
Are u good?
No
Relax
This pcb needs to be bowden
It’s still direct drive
Yea mounts to cw2 or Galileo v2(not out)
What pcb?
This for my voron
I’m getting mixed answers here
Lol
Not my ender 5 machine
PCB mounts to the direct drive extruder. It must be used together
A cw2 with a pcb still has direct drive
The pcb has the fans mosfets on it
U can prob make a mount for not cw2 but that would have alot more useless plastic
@jagged condor this stuff can be overwhelming, but a pcb usually has nothing to do with what extruder type you have. What is the problem you are having?
Don't get this pcb
Cw2 isn't that good
But I already got it.
Vz-hextrudort where it at.
Which pcb?
I think there is some confusion here
I’m not having problems I’m just looking at similar builds I want to complete and make a plan so there isn’t a lot of problems I have to solve
Go with ebb36 style can boards normally. U need however to make that board work a good wire strain. So PG7 I suggest u buy from ali
It's more easily scalable
Also go with sherpa mini or Vz hextrudort
Both are very well designed. Annex (sherpa mini) are over engineers. Then there's hextrudort with lightweight cnc and the crazy mind of mirageC.
R.I.D.G.A reverse integrated idk rest is good for Sherpa mini or stock Vz-hextrudort. Both have mounts for stealthburner out
@naive swan u should try out XOL2 mod for ur machine
Better cooling.
Same mounting
Has beacon support out rn
Ur wires make me upset with u
Ik someone with mantis and umbilical
U should have PG7 ik u got them
I'll take that bed and make u sleep with itm
I still got it don't need my bed anymore
Get those thumbs down
@jagged condor what machine?
I have e5p
I'm prob gonna go 9mm belts no AWD now
AWD needs metal I guess
Yeah
Mantis XOL2 or Eva 3 Server Fan is strat
What is benefit of AWD ?
Mo powa baby
U can get greater torque and power outta it
Oh I agree
It's not even much more cash shmonie
Yeah also the upgraded gears
Burgo how many coffees deep are you right now
Lol
You strike me as someone who can pound some coffee
Only thing deep in is ur mom.
Whoa
Dang now I want a coke
Bruh did they update chat gpt
I haven’t drank one in months
I don’t use AI
Yes I'm adhd and I enjoy coffee. I have a ok setup
I know shit about fish. This the way
@vocal terrace can I get a picture of your machine?
I like kona coffee but im not very traveled.
What machine?
Also no at work
Mmm work
I have multiple. However a merc isn't one. Need new frame and I don't like their design
You mean you dont keep pics of your babys on your phone?
Im at school 😈😈
You have 99 problems and a merc aint one
Jesus
Not mine actually those rails are expensive AF. Edm cut
I like type z mod. I like it a lot
Jebaitr My driend
Its as close to voron as ill get without spending voron cash
Voron I like but not good enough speed for price
Vzbot?
K3 or vzbot pog
Doesnt that guy have hos bolted to his house
To keep it stable lol
K3 havent heard of that one. Ratrig, voron, merc
And vzbot
Should be able to pull off higher speeds with the new steppers
Annex beast that sent photo of
Might need 9mm belts though
What is your main print materials your trying to go to
2.4 is so sexy