#Ender 5 Plus - Mercury 1 (Classic) with Stealth Burner and New Enclosure Project
1 messages · Page 7 of 1
Vengeful what ur ass tag
what
Ur not a true wan listener
Not sure if your looking for vendors for your BOM but i think misumi is pretty affordable.
not right now, i am am doing the xl top hat right now
For the extrusions
Klipper is in New prusa slicer version
No the slicer
@naive swan What are you running on raspberry? Octoprint/klipper or mainsail?
Octoprint is dogshit
klipper/fluidd on a le potato
Top hat XL is loaded now
https://github.com/Vprince099/ZANDVE
alright i am going to watch the rest of wan show from my bed room
The infamous esun fire engine red
Ooooh, I want I want
it may just become the standard
Especially for umbilical
yeah i am not sure if it will be enough but it will be way better than now for that
Yeah that’s true
Someone will need to test
It look more proportional to the lower section in term of height
Sign me up
i am going to use it for the voron version for sure
but x mount testing is my top priority at this time
completely agree, it was the max i could go without it looking odd
What part are you testing?
a new one but i need some parts to come in so i can start striping the Voron test bed
Carbon x gantry?
its loaded
the cad?
a new folder does exist for the stls already
the load takes awhile
Oh yeah I see it now, I’ll start printing after I finish the first bits I’ll start
ahh crap, i was wondering why the left frame top plate took so long to print, i had it set to 100% infill
Do they make capicorn xs in black ?
I have no idea
which voron feet did you use @naive swan
trident? because they all seem to be a smaller dimension
Trident
One sec
Reliable Hardware Company... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ191Z6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Nice, thank you.
Np
how did you cut your clear sheet? ive found a scoring blade on amazon that looks good.
@naive swan you have the beacon? You like it ? How well does it performance?
@naive swan thinking about ordering one for each printer
@naive swan does it work well on pei boards
bruh
dont ping
it doesn't use PEi it uses the actual bed
u need thicker bed
its bed levlin not sheet
Nope
is that hole not for a bolt?
It’s for at m5 heat insert
just on one side?
on the stl there is only a hole on the left one
this is part of the testing right?
I must have deleted when I dissolved history
ill let you know if i find anything else
Thank you
team work makes the enclosure work?? 😄
Yep lol
i wish my printer would work and stop under extruding haha
still have not solved the proble,
Yeah when I had that it ended up being my gear, took 2 months to solve
Enclosed bed slinger
Also so on pi you just installed straight fluid/klipper not octokliper?
So thats the under extrusion he is experiencing?
mainsail through kiauh
sometimes poor bed adhesion
mostly under extrusion
Missed lines looks like
i can hear somtimes my extruder clicking like its skipping, but its intermitemt, i have checked for clogs and replaced nozzles
also played around with temps and fan speeds
i swear its just this crappy sprite pro extruder
it was doing it even when printing pla with enclosure so cant be chamber temps
i might build a mini stealth burner for it
unless its not related to the extruder skipping
Pla should be enxlosed
oh yeah?
i tried to once, but the pla carbonized and created a new polymer called pl-a-bs
lol
dang need to print 8 more snap latches
Omg wtf
I increased speed by 25% and the under extrusion goes away
@naive swan this doesn’t make sense
@deep vine btw have you calibrated esteps for your extruder at temp your printing?
acctually i dont think i have
i did it when i put the toolhead on, but i think i did it with PETG
It does change a bit with material
okay ill do this in the morning
Looks like overhang parts are the issue then
@deep vine the new version of "R_Frame_Enclosure Supports Needed.stl" is up. Looks like during the cad clean up i did a delete instead of dissolve for a fillet and hole
Okay cool, is it only 2 m5 inserts need for the build?
yes
M5x6x7 should do right?
there were some places where it was useful but here was the only place it was needed
Does the m5 bolt for this need to have rounded head?
i think M5 Heat Setsx4mm Deep x7mm Wide
thats the one i am using
but M5 Heat Setsx5mm Deep x7mm Widewill work as well
Or can I get away with standard head
as in no heatset?
No
a nut?
Yeah
👌
I was thinking about removing the front original 2020 extrusion
So I can see first layer better
Because the design you have made is really solid, so I think it will be strong enough with out this extrusion
Yeah I did wonder about this
What do you think
Hahaha
the front tower frame needs an extension that screws in to the m5 hole of the 2040 uprights
it can be done
But the tensioners is in this line of path
Exactly
the red would be the build out and blue is where the bolt needs to thread
That m5 goes through the tensioner, or it’s very close
Hmm
one for tensioner lock down - stadium hole
one on the rear outside
and one on the inner front side
Could also take it over the side it a t nut
Ohh yeah your right, it should work, after the bolt goes in, the tensioner can be built up
see how the hole recesses here, it just need to recess below the tensioner on the green x
Yeah I got you now
Okay
I want to test it out
yep it means a new tower frame but it would work
They need reprinting anyway
I can makes this design change
agree
Unless you wana do it
ok
@deep vine im pushing the latest cad files now
takes awhile
dang it, i was going to add the built in supports first
I’ll be working from the fusion file tho..
How can we collaborate the changes?
Okay you do you changes the the stl, i will make this modification and when we are done I’ll use your stl and create a new modified version of that which can go in your GitHub if you like
CANBUS INSALLED
Ooh, SB2209
SB2240
Was there any issues?
the small ass wries
yee
Surly soldiering to them won’t be an issue?
Are they some sort of crimp connector?
@naive swan whats the temp sensor for ebb36 command look like?
Are you going to print abs with this printer?
How will you mount it?
cover.
Is that because of the driver?
Will be interesting to see
its cooler cause driver yes.
like thi
Actually the doesn’t look bad
@naive swan did you have to do the DFU-Utility error work around for your skr2 when installing klipper?
are u connecting skr 2 threww the u2c?
No not even started yet just trying to figure out what the install process is and trying to plan out for eventually of errors. Maybe overthinking.
u don't connet skr 2 threw that thing fyi its worsed than not
tried to print the annex panel clips ...cant slice it in super slicer
i dont remember
[temperature_sensor CANBOARD]
sensor_type: temperature_mcu
sensor_mcu: EBBCan
when done you can export the f3d and i can associate or i can give you a mod folder
i like the mod folder route better honestly
Dang that sucks
yee
1 month no voron....
i'm thinking od I want to go SB2040 for my other guy....
Yeah sounds good to me
Ah that sucks!
A 2040 I order3d just in case
@vocal terrace how did it happen
I'll go can on my e3v2 switchwire soin
It happened cause the boards didn't mate properly and 1 stuck out
Ohh, so it created a bad connection and sent to much current
Yee shorted
But what did it short circuit on?
The metal is not touching anything
Idk what shorted on but pins were sitting flat then the cpu went brrr.
Like the way they sat.
Fans and everything wete wired correctly
Tbh I don’t think that would have fried the board, unless the pins had bad connection
Have u seen the solder job they did.
i cant tell from the pictures
@naive swan the updated right tension tower is also missing the brass insert for the panel mount, sorry i just realised
completed, ill print and test new files
Ooh, should I build 4x4 version?
It will be really sick a mercury awd, I’m waiting the cad release to tri myself, but since I’m a cad noob, it will be really nice if someone do it before lol
the CAD file is there.
Sorry, I was meaning the 1.1 cad, but probably since what I think I need to have is only the position of the pulley, I can try
Added built in supports
all parts are officially print as loaded now
it works well and i am happy with it
@naive swan cool
Biggest print so far
nice
Biggest problem I got is I have to watch this roll of filament ..has a dam tangle in the roll
oh thats right
have to keep untangle it
you could unroll some of it
I did
until it goes away?
37% done
trying to print voron door hinges
no success yet
door handles printed awesome
Im about ready to give up on these door hinges and look for something different
Type V is Done
So no can 2.4 ): together
not good
?
can problems?
pinout was fine
whats the problem now?
so put together wwith Hartk 2 board
eww
Glass smooth
hopefully I can get all files in tomorrow https://github.com/Vprince099/ZANDVE/tree/main/Type-V
ok fuirst QGL time
I ordered tap cnc :0
The peps that made that aren't actually a fan of it lol
People don't like cause MGN7
@naive swan dont get cnc tap
the rail even when tbey sent to steve was bad
galileo V2 steve has oooo
What can board was it?
2240
do you need a faster replacement?
yeah I have one I could send you if you needed one faster than Ali shipping
nah I setup my hartk 2prt board
ty for offer
I get 1.5 weeks ish with ali
betcha i'd pay 2x shipping cost lol its fucked
What’s wrong with that?
What improvements does v2 have?
looking good
looks like it
tradrack better
What part is that for?
And have you had any warping issues on your Stealthburner?
for my laser, i need a lift for the rotary tool
Was reading through issues over on the voron hub
not since i switched to ASA
As in the material on the Stealthburner. What asa brand are you using?
polylite
polylite ASA is all I use for printer parts
out of red asa
thought i had another roll ...abs red a different color of red
ugggg
FUCK THOSE SUCKED TO FIND
sucks I have to order some more red asa
Which files?
I mis-read the v style files that you are going to upload
hopefully I can get all files in tomorrow https://github.com/Vprince099/ZANDVE/tree/main/Type-V
GitHub
the type-V version
sorry for re-posting link
Im working on it
I just have to compare changes
That sucks
Yea
Yeah it works, I’ve printed t couple of small prints with it, but mainly used for swapping out fillaments. I’m suprised actually because it works better that I expected
Very cool
Got my new build surface, hopefully helps with adhesion
Nice!! That looks good, you’ve just build another axis for your laser
well i had it but, i needed to make the raiser since i added an enclosure
i hope it works better for you
How do you like that xtool? Are you able to effectively and cleanly cut 1/4 acrylic?
Oh cool, is the enclosure mainly because of fumes, Send a picture of something you have laser etched
its only 10w so i dont think it can, as far as clear is concerned, i got it for wood stuff mostly. this will be the first glass project. The Xtool seems ok but its pretty expensive, in hindsight i would just build my own.
so far i am about 1k in on it
right after i finished the laser project, i built a V0, converted a E5+, designed an enclosure, built it, and now i am working on my current project plan. Before then i had just finished up with cyrpto mining....and now i need to start back up(since its profitable again)
canbus adapter for octopus soon hehehe
@naive swan engraving is pretty neat
I ran canbus direct too the octopus pro board
yeah, im still surprised i can engrave on glass using black tempura paint to transfer a white burn in
Nice
Yea I was looking at creality laser but decided to look into that later. But what I really was interested crystal engraving
i may be wrong but that may be a job for infared laser engraving
i will just give this advice, get the laser that does exactly what you want. dont plan on upgrades at all
its a money sink
i love it but in hindsight i would have built my own using what i know about 3d printers....one day i will make something badass
that a piece of kit im scared to use haha, i know you have to be really carful with lasers.
lol yeah, eye protection is a must
@naive swan also the mining
is it easy to do?
more to the point, is it even worth it?
can i mine, from the raspberry pi while at the same time as running klipper? 😉
if you have 20-30k of GPUs sure, im well over 2x my investment at least
is it for everyone no, lots of investment and time
you have to maintain the cards
you have to monitor the servers(machines running the software)
easily a time commitment of 10-20hrs per week
not sure
well not Going to lie, but from that, it doesn't sound appealing to me.
mabey ill just run a 3D farm instead haha
yep
40watt laser would be awesome
problem is you can go co2 for 2-3k
yea
got some polymaker asa red
bought some froma buddy instead of order it ...2 rolls to get me started
very nice
yep agree
all my local contacts come to me for parts and filament....
Lol
nice
i need to find some meet ups or something
I like ASA better
yeah i have become the ABS ASA guy now
Then u don't like as much profit
More expensive filament
also tpu
yea no proffit here just hobby
As college student I gotta worry on that cost
yea im past college years
if someone asks me for ASA i luagh and tell them how much it costs then they go ABS is fine
I like sparkles
same
And turtles
I saw some new sparkle red asa
Sparta 3d is near me
2 day recieved
Imma start getting his Asa prob instead of abs+
im working on it....damn escalation has me swamped right now
ok i give up.....i didnt even know why i am fixing this....ok going to grab a bite, see if anyone responds and work on the type-V upload
question, should i drop the fillets for chamfers on this one? I am getting curling on the 2mm fillets.
Chamfers seem to be more Voron style
Dinner time does sound good
local computer store selling the xtool now
@mild hinge the files are up
Type V is loaded https://github.com/Vprince099/ZANDVE
Has anyone tested any cf-asa
Type V is dual z and type Z is hydra? Or
Type V v1 will be trident, Type Z v1 will be hydra
Just waiting on the parts to start the test fit
Hydra will be quick
Trident requires some mods
Both v0 versions are as stock as possible, to keep cost down
I'm building a trident and a voron 2.4r2
Do you happen to have a pic of the type z, specifically the enclosure deck? Printing out the parts that go on the rails and was curious on fitment and how to secure the panel? Also the din rail middle support does that attach to something?
the panel is sandwiched
din rail middle support works like a standoff between the panel and the din rail
there is 8 parts
each has clips the are screwed into heat sets
Ok i think i missed the heat-set slots when i was slicing the files.
And im at work while its printing or else would have downloaded cad and looked. lol
Do you have two ender 5 pluses that you are enclosing or are you going to swap Z types on the one build?
i have 2
just waiting on parts now
i have the rails, mcu, can, pi, most of the screws, sb parts, fans and extrusions
just waiting on bed, heater, hydra kit, bearings
need to inventory screws soon
So didnt know if you did anything for this but i found a good tach watch macro and config that will stop hot end heating if hot end fan fails
For all the work you’ve done might be worthwhile if you dont have a safety for the hot end
I needa add RPM again for thuis....
Hadnt even thought of it till that reddit post
Ive had hot end fan failures before but never on an all printed setup
rapido gang
also those motors look bald
I like my LDO
What it isSuper power is the new evolution of LDO widely known speedy power series, this motor delivers even more holding torque and power rating while keeping the same form factor as previous models and implementing improvements for better VFA performance. AHS80 variant ships in 10 days Specs: Multiple versions t
pog motors
The motors on the reddit post? Yeah those do look way small.
It’s definitely worth checking. I would say swapping out the fan preventively but fans fail randomly
Are these 48v?
Looks like my tracking number has been created
Seems like simple implementation by just adding a three wire fan and adding an endstop pin. Id hate to come back to a melted Stealthburner lol
Are there 4010 24v 3wire fans
This is also why you always have 2-3 backups of the toolhead
What is it: After careful testing and multiple rounds of samples we are ready to release our HoneyBadger P-Series fans. These 4010 Axial fans have a durable fan motor and high static pressure which can take on any modern toolhead Type. This fan features a Rotor lock alarm via a 3rd wire (yellow) that will output a Vin
I have some. Still a pain in the ass to dig out a hot end.
That’s what my smd reflow is for
Smd reflow?
I have all honey badger fans like them alot
I want lead screw steppers
Ur dumb
Hey
U get bad leas screw then it's new motor too
They are simple
You can solve that on the nut side
Ordering alot more rails from em lol
Coupler ans rubber wne are both solutions that u want on both
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
5x8
I May be forced to order lead screws
Is the ender 5 plus stock power inlet fused?
Send photo of urs
one sec
May have revisions but Ik mine is
Not at home so cant check. Just shopping lol
Mine was...
My bad it is
@dawn vapor you may want a better switch https://a.co/d/96PuxPc
wish i had gone for a 2 pack since i need to order another one now
3$ mistake
Ur trending on Twitter rn my canceling finally work
what are you talking about?
Should I open the enclosure or risk it not Notting??!!
Ur e3 looks like crap switht those wires lol
Mind chernobly vid
haha yes your right,
i will get around to it lol
did you say can bus sprite?
lol why?
im gonna go cw2 and dragon soon prob
what is the overtrue fillament like
less conductors lol
dogwater
galileo 2??
its good pla
its cheaper than esun, i was wondering if it matched up
im ordering 4 spools of asa soon. my friend tryna get 20spoiols
its already very groomed with the umbilical
idk it was teased only
what do you mean
i seen lol
u see deez?
z wobbz
in my opinion on standard pla its better price/kg since i have seen no issues with and quality is =
nutz
shit PLA is pla
ahh okay, handy to know
i dont see the benefit unless you want a fulltime adxl
they aren't even good adxl results
the point is the pla is the same
exactly what I said
true because its a bed slinger right?
dutc told me
oh
no gargamnel
ah the foremost expert has spoken on the subject
gargamel can wizard
Yep got that one off your BoM
im jeeopin stock
i usually just talk to can bus depot on Voron
they have good info
I do for setup
lots of pins and what not
i think there are many sources now, few months ago not so much
still waiting on my atp5 bed
Hector has been great, if it wasnt for the demand on parts he would be my #1 vendor hands down
i need to work on this more
...
Burgo how much coffee do you drink?
um. second cup of day rn
I'm getting more youmetong rails hehehe
link
added
specify medium pretension
The m5 heat-set inserts are M5 x4x7? Thats M5 bolt/screw 7diam 4 deep?
Id be more inclined to get the kb3d
i just ordered more of this
i wish i could get a vendor that does 1000 but dang, black is pretty cool
yea I ordered 300
You can heat up the brass for an extended period of time and turn it greenish tint at home.
yea but I like the black matches the voron build
Sharpie
yea if want to sit and paint them but I don't
Im messing with you lol that is a very cool deal you got though.
its all good I like advice for sure
Didnt even think to look if they made those any different color
still building voron 2.4
@naive swan you get the beacon installed on the SB ?
He’s had it on there for a bit now
Yep, I loaded the files on my GitHub
That’s interesting, did you mess up the extrusions?
now I want speed
hence small
Cheaper too
Looks like I’m not getting an atp5 now, my bed was damaged
Getting mic6 probably
I have a mic 6
inn shi[ppuin
Nah the one held for my order ended having something wrong with it
F
It was mic6 or wait a long time
u get deal?
Oh well I was kinda looking forward to mic6
Atp5
I never pull the build plate anyway
im gonna get fysetc now
It’s too big for that
its the normal rail size for E5+
also those LDO motors are gonna rock
I'm ordering 12 linear rails rn
My X and y for voron and other is getting replaced
also my e3v2
I need to do this, even if I don’t go switchwire
youmetong u should try
they take a bit tohugh cause small
that or CNa rails and u ask for west3d pretension
or through west3d
Yeah, let me see what e3 options are out there, I need to go sprite and dual z
why shrite
youmetong is pog
youmetong saved my life
Vengeful, do you have a nozzle brush and purge bucket on the type z?
I do not, it is possible though. Should just be able to mimic a trident mod
@naive swan do you have Fly 36 on type Z ?
Ebb36
yeah i mean that, but how you solved ,cable chain holder ? you just edit it and make space for PCB and fan ?
Im using a mod
One sec
then i use this to mount a fan on top using 20mm standoffs
thx
np
never with out a twisted pair
My wires are twisted too
Ouu , CAN bus is more sensitive than RS485 , or RS232
no more than 2cm without twist 😄
yep, you will get random dropouts too, only way too avoid it is to probably shield it as well
I was expecting it is used in car without twist
On bearing stacks i see shims on top and bottom. No shims on toothed idler?
none like basically all printers
Also noticed the din rails in type z cad inside backpack don’t go all the way across. Not sure if that was intentional.
Good morning Burgo
afternoon BEACHHH
@shell wolf u using canbus on ur machines iwth pis?
That was a miss
is this mobile?
Yes
ill get for u. is it 45 and 50 in bom?
@naive swan bom should have seperate file in github. Look at how VZbot does their bom
@dawn vapor
its screws dw
Each rear stepper has 4 m5 shcs 50mm I think
It’s in the BOM
Worksheet tab breaks it down
noice If u wwant I can help with bom
Build the printer and sure
@naive swan damn you think of everything. Didnt notice the tabs. That is awesome
@vocal terrace when i get back from church i will make a back up and give you edit access to the Bom
I have 5 PI 4's
if u do canbus then def download 64 bit
they are on 64bit
with can bus
3 for printers 1 for pihole and 1 for home automation
all have ssd drives
What is 64bit?
klipper
the cpu
I think my le potato is 64bit
prob not its cheap
nice
Raspbian was a b to get on it because of it
I need oone more monitor
I do armbian
dual screens not enough
I have not really had a use case for Pi’s as a pc yet
On my printers I am tempted to just go for a nuc
I need a mount for 104-GT2 thermistor x1 to use for chamber temp
bruh don't
1.5m leads with blue sleeves and Molex micro-fit 3.0 female connector; Ø 3mm Stainless Steel crimped cartridge with laser engraved Bondtech logo; SeMitec 104NT-4 temperature sensor;Use the following code to customize your Marlin2.0 to use this thermistor:#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5Check the R/T table here:104NT-4-R025H42G_
anybody have a frame mounts
I'm team ORGANGE PI 3 LTS
why so overkill
I have a 2 dollar one for chamber
it came with the kit
I can get PCs like those for 100 or less though
What is itMercury One kit for ender 5/pro core XY conversion built to BOM+ specifications using complete stainless steel bolts, stainless steel linear rails, and motors. For more info on the Mercury one project click here preorder information: expected early march kit includes the following: HoneyBadger MGN12H stainl
I thinbk just le dogshit
I haventt found a mount for it
I get my shipment on the 11th
i get pcb klicky then
and new bed mount
for my idk wtf it is gonna be called or my switchwire pcb klicky.
I saw Nero talking about cnc tap
im a WP simp either way
its not good
They messed up
yea I said this multiple days ago.
even fermiolabs is better peps said
I didnt catch why
me printing LCd mount voron right now
me fixing my gantry
i just taped the thermistor to the frame
bad
bad
bad
bad
bad
bad
Hopefully when I am ready somebody has an mgn9 version
thats a Z thermal adjust not chamber one then
yes I know
just go printed they are adding R7 soon
I needed a solution to mount a spare thermistor so I could monitor my printer's enclosure temperature. This is designed to accept an E3D-style cartridge thermistor, although slightly larger and smaller cartridges may also fit. To secure the thermistor in the mount, a 3mm socket head machine screw can be used to clamp down on the cartridge. Pleas...
soemthing like this might work
ah so my rapido fried my octopus pro mosfet... Time to swap it to bed heat
found one
these speedy motors home without feeling any hotter at 1.5A lol
new LDO motors ?
no the old version
I need z rods
wdym rods
I need them to match
I need 6
Everytime I open links it thinks I am in Germany
2mm pitch
yes. thats the size u want
yea same spec as the trident ones
Oh so they are tr2x8
yes...
pog my octopus didn't fry
switchin to bed input
Are the 500mm usable on the 5+
I have 500mm lead screw steppers and they clear fine on the stock mounts
@vocal terrace you have access now
pog
How was church
Ewww
Screw church embrace naruto and sasuke kissing
I have too many f695 bearings
good...had to go twice, tomorrow is the long one though
I rn have 100 dollars worth
where you get em
I have 40 raindew ones and about 20 fushi here
My 2.4 is fushi rn
Raindeq are 2x fushi price but last longer
More expensive I put in bom
I also am almost all youmetong rails now
My Z for my 2.4 is robotdigg black zo. My yydra bed is gonna be robotdigg z1 black
My why pile
cheap belts?
12mm gt2 6mm (needa get 9mm soon) and then rails
No that's 60 dollars of belts
I have like 16m of just shit belt
Bruh. I literally put it on ur link
like 100M=
Why that much
U can msg sellers too
Lol
2.88/M on 6M
I would get 9mm belts rn but imma wait cause have this 6mm and needa get 4 super power soon. Which is gonna be like 180 in motors prob
Why I said mag
nice i am tempted to go 9mm belt
If u are then we should both work on what I wanna do
where do i get gt3
It will be scalable
Wait for hector
C$ 12.71 | POWGE GT2 LL-2GT RF 2GT Open Synchronous Timing belt width 6/9/10/12/15mm Rubber Low dust low vibration VORON gates 3D printer
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrzcY20
If u wanna get alot
i mean if i could get bulk gt3 i might sell it on my amazon shop
Lol
Yea idk cause the 10% off
Trianglelabs I went with. I have some from powge
They have same stuff so I trust ir
Is that a bad price/bad belt?
trinangle labs is 2.88$/M on 12M
Look at American one
Yea triangle better
problem is i will use that amount on just my current builds
Same stuff
How 12M
Oh 2 yeah...
Yeah so I got my belts form ali in literally 1 week 3 days
i would still need to rebelt my V0s and an ender SW and my V2.4 project will need it as well
Needa finish designing AWD
also i would need back ups
Don't do 2.4 I regret it
Go vzbot or even trident
Trident speeds seem faster
What V0 kit....
its $5/M so best price so far is https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832667244886.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.54.493e1802he1wAH&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US at $2.88/M
C$ 8.46 | POWGE GT 3GT Open synchronous Timing belt width 6/9/15mm 3GT-6/3GT-9/3GT-15 Rubber Small Backlash Accuracy Positioning 3GT Belt
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKdpdys
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
If only for the gates not powge belts
uh the type V will be a trident
one already built(needing the v0.2 upgrade) and 1 unbuilt V0.2
V0.2 which?
Just get 12M of gates
i was going to do a 250 v2.4 or micron 180
Micron not bad
I like good but cheap
But 1 speed demon want
the unbuilt is a Frankenstein(so many parts from upgrades) and the v0.1 is a completely swapped and upgraded Siboor
the unbuilt will be sold
in for a penny....i guess
I'm more or less just wanting good printers.
Beacon is something I'll proh never go
then buy a bamboo
beacon is only good for big beds, my take at this time
i want a 250 v2.4 will be tap
Klicky is good.
Straight up I don't like mine that much. I'm not auperrr voron anymore
yeah but it takes for ever to do that especially on a 350+
Like I like my printer yes. It's my fastest so far.
With tap I feel comfortable enough to not needa bed mesh
But my voron is over 2k with many upgrades but like other machines can do same for that prife
Price
on fixed gantry its ok to go beacon
2.4 is too
Bruh f er
I can't say that...
its flying gantry
Realized after u weren't tap
oh that frankenstien v0.2 might become a crucible but thats more of a because i can option lol