#Ender 5 Plus - Mercury 1 (Classic) with Stealth Burner and New Enclosure Project
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bruh L bozo take. its also the amount of drag form chain. no longer
Weighs less than Sherpa micro?
oh wait its micro. I'll go weight it if u want
I don’t own a scale I don’t do drugs
remember this is enclosed and you only have so much clearance
Hmm coffee
what I got enclosure too and i'mma not go drag chaimns
yea but PG7 is more compressed
m1 sits and lives at the top
U can just add some nylon with loom too try and keep down lower
so drag chain....
couln't u literally just go instead of ^ to >
I dont have drag chains on the ender 5 plus but the voron I do
but wheres the can
I do on my v2.4 rn but not for long. my merc I'll have 1 cable chain for hydra
i think thats the cool thing about these we can come up with all kinds of solutions
taking my time
yep
so. my 2.4 is waiting on frame rn. cause I fucked up some frame stuff
but wheres canbus
cxanbus should be here soon.
I have tap
which ngl I woulda done beacon
but I have it
its nice
mines on the way
beacon oe tsp?
beacon
ahhh
what is beacon ?
yep
its too much for me though ngl
just need to print this
tap is expensive too but if u just buy it first its cheaper
lol
u guys see obico is doing ai instaed of lidar for first layer like bambu
70 bucks
with nozzle came?
cam
I have 2 webcams
the beta is closed now
nozzle cams*
nozzle mounted
i have the 3do one
I have 2 of them
@vocal terrace what is getting refunded?
if u buy probe in beta then u don't pay for cam
?
doesnt matter u cant join betaa
beta for the beacon /
i have both...
i dont have the beacon
this is a obico ai first layer bnetta im talkin abouta
gotcha
yea thats some beacon action
50x50
is that micro gonna get canbus?
the far right side is me probing off the bed
no
):
k3rabiner
u nnot can enjoyer
oh just breakout board
yeah
no mine came pre crimp and ready for a hartk board
eww
my sb2040 wont get here for awhile
I have 2 sb2040
yea i was looking at getting a btt2240
thats what I have oming
onyl thing. its so long
also don't like default files they include
@shell wolf tell me what filament to use in my build log
u other guys cna too.
printing trident feet
@naive swan tell me what filament to set as primary
Type or color? Or brand?
Black primary
when I upgrade frame ill do grey
That’s good
I mostly use black/red
Ready
sexy!
@vengful, i have F360, if you want, tell me what i help your enclose build with, for example the voron skirt with zero G logo. or stealth burner with new logo
most of it is done, but i can put together the skirt model for the finishing touches
so the skirt still needs some rework?
From what I've seen so far, I think our Build Maestro is at the point of refining small details and fixing issues. I don't think more cooks in the kitchen would speed it up. 😕
There's a programming book called "The Mythical Man Month" about trying to reduce time for a project by adding bodies. After a certain point, it takes longer to get up to speed than just to finish the project. Home dude is really close and I know we all wanna help, but best we can do is be patient.
yes i agree, naturally i prefer to work alone but culturally ive had to learn to work with others
Just a few crimps and I can start printing again
Old loom vs new
Damn thing weighed at least half a pound
Yasss
I am really liking this wrap
looks great; what is it?
Automotive Grade wire loom
The aerospace grade stuff is better but not worth it unless you are going to build a gundam or something
Hopefully connected directly to the le potato is enough power
Other wise I will need to connect it to my powered usb hub
Good job, are you printing yet??? 😆
just finished the config
so far so good
just need to do a pid tune
and fans are flipped lol
i got the canbus temp as well since i missed it
ok dinner time, i will be back! Im excited about this
ok first test was a success, probe is working via can
Looking good, are you planning to use the 3DO nozzle cam still?
!
I have determined that my under extrusion issues are caused by my bed mesh
I am getting mid print variance
Basically I get +0.01 then +0.02 for 10 lines then switch back when the change was not needed at all
I noticed my klicky is shifting on the back magnet for some points
But even then the way it handles the variance is ridiculous
I feel like I need the offset to be applied by part not shift in the middle of a layer
That’s crazy! One word…… “Tap”
What about modding the klicky with bigger more power magnet
just use N52
remember the magnets effect alot of stuff
makes sense. I like the idea of klicky but I don’t think it’s the best solution
@naive swan you do CAD for hire?? 😂
@naive swan Your machine looks amazing 🙃 do all the printed parts need to be abs? or could the enclosure parts also be something like PLA? Cant wait for you to release the parts (if your going to release them)
@naive swan mmu opinoin>?
Would u make one?
honestly, maybe. I just need to figure out or wait for someone to do a stepper driven rewind on the spool. like the Bamboo AMS
Yes, some of the parts can be PLA, like the panel clips or some of the lids but its not as many parats as you would think. As for release, official date is step file will be on the github by the end of the month.
Work has me backed up
but that guarantees that i have done all the part tweeks
i will start releasing sections soon
code for hire has me backed up and is more lucrative, lol. what do you need help with?
Amazing! I'm gonna start with some of the enclosure upgrades so that I can print ABS for the other parts
esk8 enclosure end caps 😦
My second one gets here today I think
electric skateboard?
Yes sir !!
lol i want to start a one wheel
I do have 50 Sony vtc6 21700s burning a hole in my pocket
and a robotew motor controller ..
Show some pics for context??
Will this work with your magnetic bed?
i dont have a magnetic bed
it better work
It will if it’s metal
if you have a bed with embedded big magnets it won’t
You gotta be shiting me
My reverse Bowden has been the issue
The moment I pulled it out of toolhead the issue went away
put a short run of bowden in the top of the sb, just a few inches
then just leave the air gap like it is now
same as having a full ptfe tube
mostly was saying that since i assumed your reverse bowden was too short
no plenty long
its under extruding when inside the toolhead
might be too long as wel
well*
trying a side mount now
well my ebb is overheating
flatlined at 75c
so close to printing my new mounts for beacon.....
I put heatsinks on both the STM32 and TMC driver. I know it's supposed to be the driver, but...
well im boned
Dead dead?
i cant even get coms back up
Oh fml.
Is your comm wiring twisted pair?
I getcha. Dang.
Good idea. Work on it after rest. 🙂
Continuity would be next test, though. Just in case a crimp came loose.
i am going to order some igus right now though
the can wire stuff
continuity seems good
to test
Well, dang. I haven't had enough coffee for more ideas yet.
I’m hoping it’s just interference
I left the twisted pair about 400mm too long and coiled it around the ucan
Beside the pi
I know CANBUS can run long distances, but maybe?
And you have restarted Klipper, right?
Oh. Hrm.
After 5 full power downs it came back
I’m worried my psu may have kicked the bucket since I haven’t heard the fan kick off in over an hour
But that could be because it’s cold
In the office
Huh. The only thing I can think is that long cable and interference, as you suggested.
Use 2.5mm ID ptfe
@naive swan the 20x20 fan looks like a good idea for can cooling, mabey you could design a mount for one
I made one for a 30x10(whatever the fan is for the hotend on the stealth burner, it uses 20mm brass stand offs
But I can’t print it right now
Not shield or I have a break
Also it could be that my ebb fried
I have a feeling that my moons stepper is the culprit
It is erratic and I am pretty sure I crossed wired it in the past
Could be the ucan as well
Can you Check the resistance on the coils of the stepper with a multimeter?
I think moons pancake stepper can couse over heating.
I have and I think they were .8 or 1.4 but it was the same on both coils
1,9 +- 10%
Yeah I have a brand new ldo stepper that I will install when my new ebb36 gets here
It is not 1.9 for sure
1.8 is in tolerance 🙂
I can get the value when I get home
Mine is not within tolerance
I can confirm
So that may be the issue
LDO FTW.
i have been saving an ldo for my v0.2 upgrade
Well i ordered a revo voron, 9 feet of igus control wire, 2 daylight on stick pcbs
Is the igus control wire a 4 wire shield cable with twisted pair
they do
cf113
comes with 2 twisted pairs
well i hope
im using cf113.018.D
2 twisted pairs and and power core wires
nice
supposedly 36 month life if specs are followed properly, also a 2nd twisted pair is nice
not sure if i can use it, i would be nice if i could run the beacon line through it
Looks good, what connections is on the beacon probe?
No…
Either way I am back up an printing, just need a fan on the ebb36 since the heat is too much for it
For beacon mounting
Just one small tweek for a heat set so I can replace my temp solution
Damn x end stop was an afterthought
As for the ebb fan I will just use this since I have them on hand and they are cheaper than 3007
I need to modify my EBB cover to add a fan...
Did you you wiring up your new cable then?? Pics??
huh, guess jst pa are compatible or a clone of Sherlock’s
that’s the connector beacon specs according to the creator
I'm guessing Molex did that on purpose, if that's the case. But yeah, I saw that in the docs and wondered why they chose that connector.
Oh, nice. 2A at 24awg? That's pretty good.
Looks awesome! Hope to get a mount for the beacon on eva 2.4 soon😋
it comes with a wire
i have found alot of connectors are the same, in that design. Might be a patent situation.
i found these when i was working on my laser, and on that xtool had used a 3rd propietary version that seemed to be skirting a patent. But jst pa worked on that as well......and that is how i have so many connector types.
So how did you get coms back with the ebb
A lot of these connectors are semi-compatible on purpose. Not necessarily a patent thing, but like "well, our connectors work better than theirs AND they're compatible!" as a selling point.
wait did your beacon not come with a cable
It did
The high pin on the microfit connector was not pushed in all the way
Also my under extrusion seems to be caused by pa
Looks great on black but very noticeable on red
thats sucks! atleast you found it tho.
You inspired me to go SB ebb36
@vengful can you please link your x gantry brackets, currently i have one belt running to front and one belt running to the back of the gantry
Nice
The m1 xbracket on the y rail?
Why
Maybe he is asking about the sb mount
Is the stock m1 joint what vengeful is running?
Yes
yeah i have the standard rail, but i swear your joints look different
i thought you had differnent mounts
what joints put the belt in the back ?
Back?
I have a special adapter
For the chain and y endstop
okay, that make sense, i'm trying not to use cable chain so therefore i can just use the standard joints if
dont buy backers unless ur enclosed. @deep vine
what do you mean by backers?
x gantry brackets
ohh you mean metal brackets?
Yea I raed backers...
i do plan to go enclosed, when vengful has finished his design, this is what i will do,
theres gonna be a enclosure by zerog.
tap....
i see it
im assuming u guys gotta modify it or is it stock good?
he built a merc 1 then started designing and building his own encloser. im building a merc 1 too, im also changing me toolhead from eva to stealth, with tap and can
yay....2026?
ill prob do top mounted electronics
time to install beacon
manual twisted pairs sucks
yes it does, used my vise and some jigs. then some heatshrink to hold it
the heat shrink made it so easy
@naive swan is top L and H or bottom 2?
I built the merc 1 also with eva tool
in the process of building a voron 2.4r2 too
vengeful had a nice merc 1 build
if i could finish it
2026?
No the design is done, I release at the end of the month
if i had to i could release in 2 days
What’s temps like now on the ebb?
Beacon looks awesome
@naive swan yea I'm ordering parts for the same design Just waiting for the release of the stl's and order some more black/red filament.
dont know yet
06:01:17
$ BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
06:06:41
// Sampled 291005 total points over 2 runs
06:06:41
// Samples binned in 10198 clusters
06:06:46
// Mesh calibration complete
06:06:46
// Bed Mesh state has been saved to profile [default]
// for the current session. The SAVE_CONFIG command will
// update the printer config file and restart the printer.
YEOW that's detailed
Looks like you need to install the hydra to allow for thermal expansion; 😉
But jeez that a lot of probs points
is that a 100x100 or what
its look like 380x380
how’d you come to that conclusion you math genius
Sampled 291005 total points over 2 runs
expect sqrt root (291002/2)
@naive swan are you using the stock sb beacon mount?
using stock
i did spend a few hours finding out that my x tmc2209 was dying, that was fun
after alot of screw tilts
22:34:37
$ SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE
22:34:41
// probe at 28.000,292.200,1.780 is z=1.970697
22:34:48
// probe at 328.000,292.200,1.768 is z=1.956832
22:34:54
// probe at 328.000,30.200,1.780 is z=1.969985
22:35:00
// probe at 28.000,30.200,1.788 is z=1.975676
22:35:00
// 01:20 means 1 full turn and 20 minutes, CW=clockwise, CCW=counter-clockwise
22:35:00
// rear_left_screw (base) : x=28.0, y=292.2, z=1.80979
22:35:00
// rear_right_screw : x=328.0, y=292.2, z=1.81116 : adjust CCW 00:00
22:35:00
// front_right_screw : x=328.0, y=30.2, z=1.81051 : adjust CW 00:00
22:35:00
// front_left_screw : x=28.0, y=30.2, z=1.81231 : adjust CCW 00:00
22:35:16
$ bed_mesh_calibrate
22:37:27
// Sampled 116901 total points over 2 runs
22:37:27
// Samples binned in 2598 clusters
22:37:28
// Mesh calibration complete
22:37:28
// Bed Mesh state has been saved to profile [default]
// for the current session. The SAVE_CONFIG command will
// update the printer config file and restart the printer.
1min 15secs
Is htere a mount for the steathburner CW2 for the beacon. I just ordered one
It died for some reason
There is, I will post the link in a few
@shell wolf can I get your bed mesh settings, I’m getting some weird variance and I have no idea what is causing it
@naive swan OK thanks for the stl for the 3do nozzle cam/dragon eva setup I'll look for the link when you post it
@naive swan thanks
ohh the faulty moons motor
oh no, the one that died was on the x
Missed lines is still a problem
I have eliminated this so far
1 its not a comms issue(broken wire-bad connector) since i switched to can bus
2 its not the stepper driver or mcu, since i swapped out the 2209 3 times and i swapped he can bus once
3 its not an overheating issue since i run fans on my stepper drivers
4 its not the stepper since i have 3 so far(Moons,Fystec,LDO)
5 its not my pa, since lowering the value just hides the issue
6 its not my rotation distance or my bowden since since its doing a 100mm pull properly
remaining checks
1 the issue gets exaggerated when i switch to red, to the point that it clogs my nozzle. black just adheres better its doing the same
2 temp 240,250,260 show the same results
3 nozzle,hotend, and heater/therm are the same as my v0 and i am not getting this issue - but maybe i damaged my hotend with crashes
4 try a different slicer
5 tighten every z motion bolt
6 fine tune mesh
7 try a different build plate
8 mess with my z configs
9 change out lead screws to stock
10 change both z stepper drivers
i want to mention that i was printing fine for a week and now i think that my crashing bed may have damaged my steppers or my drivers or my mcu
since when the bed crashes it sends power through the system
this has to be related to my z motion
I solved same looking issue but it was issue on extruder fan I have to resolder cables on his pcb. ,but it doesnt must to be your problem.
what do you mean crashing bed sends power trough the system ?
the bed falls when the motors are shut off
like straight down
Like this
I turn off the motors and it goes down
i dont think it can make enough energy to take out 2209
no i dont think this would damage the mcu or any other electronis
the boards have protection against this
however i did dee somthing the other day that would prevent your bed from dropping
ahh
That’s how I am going to solve this
shit i just realised they are sold out
can you not just park your bed to z max after each print
For now I am going to add some gcode that lowers the bed the shuts off the motors
z
what is your MCU board ?
skr2
did you try a differnent slicer?
9 out 10 problems i have like this always was slicer
it doesnt send gcode commands mid part
not but the gcode from the begining could have a fault
i thought you fixxed this problem when you removed the reverse bowden
or was that a different fault?
you use 4 or 5tmnc drivers ?
Right now 4 on the skr 2 one on the can
Anything at .25 prints fine
Anything with z motion goes to shit
meybe try 2 tmc on Z
I have 2 2208s on z
whats the run current
For z it’s .5
Got my ercf almost dailed in well
very nice
what you got planned next for your printer
convert my v0.1 to a 0.2, then a trident mod ender5 plus
also that will have voron badges
nice, sounds good, what exactly is the trident E5+ mod? do you mean covert it intp a trident?
what did you do?
mine are 0.68 on standard bed. so not surprised you had to turn this up. what motors are you using?
the 2 screws on the front left 2010 extrusion needed some tightening
on z no idea
let me find the listing
ahh thats good you have 1.5 amp max rating on them so dont go over 1.2
and your drivers are rated for 2amps so your defo good on them
yeah just dialing in the bed screws
Loving your build and im about to head in same direction. What enclosure design are you using?
Also are those tension towers part of your enclosure. So jelly.
Yeah, it’s his enclosure design to be released soon
yep nice design for sure
just installed the trident feet on the ender 5 plus
also printed some feet for the voron 2.4r2
they are installed too
printing wire brackets for the cable mgmt
How many starts are on those lead screws? You mentioned it once and I forgot.
What leadscrews are you using?
His have 8 starts I believe
That would make sense, do you think if he used less starts, his bed wouldn’t drop when power off?
Yeah definately
I use tr8x2 and have no issue with it dropping
I havent tested tr8x4 but it might be fine too. I prefer tr8x2 though
You have mic 6 too?
8mm??
I ordered mine from kris3d
You could ask for the current amount of stock in his chat at the vendors chat in this channel
@naive swan this is probably a better solution than the z brake circuit board
Actually yeah I’ll ask cheers
He seems closest to uk 🇬🇧 aswell
Yup
my today come into country after 3months 😄
Where did you order from?
funsor
Oh, I had seen that an Ali
i was w8 2,5month and he send it by DHL 2weeks back
I am from Slovakia 🙂
Your have to let us know what it is like?
And a simpler and possibly cheaper solution, too
I order 230V 370x370
sure 🙂
While assembling hydra I run into issue , wobling - TR and stepper shaft arent align
4
Trx8x8 integrated lead screw steppers
I'm pretty certain that's your issue. 😕
Oh I know
If I can find a trx 8x2 integrated lead screw steppers I will order now
I’m done waiting on the brakes
just pick lead screws and 8to8 copling
Got some goodies
I want to avoid that
At this point, I am thinking that I will solve it when I do the trident mod
If this new hotend doesn’t solve my issue I will order a carbon…..
I still have same issue , with random stop printing.
I know, I talked to you last night!
we have little time shift 🙂 EU
i go 2 times down with speed, I made 2 full print and 3 randomly stop
It’s like the filament is catching somewhere
What was the error?
just stop extrusion
Oh
after little push fillament work again
Stepper amps and what stepper?
Because your under extrusion happens after time right?
And what is your pa value?
[tmc2209 extruder]
uart_pin: PE1
interpolate: False
run_current: 0.35
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0
[temperature_sensor tmc2209_extruder]
sensor_type: temperature_host
min_temp: 10
max_temp: 100
moons
pancake
I hear you should be running moons at .6
pressure_advance: 0.05
No ,I newer check this in config
The pa may be too high
The current may be too low
Also do you have a new nozzle laying around?
Best way is to tune pa but you can turn it down for now
So .03 is a normal value for cw2
i was lowering current on that moon after becouse he was over heating
but we will see
As for current, see if .5 works but do not bother going higher than .6
Yeah that’s the problem with enclosed
You could cool it
With a fan
i think i will go with can bus setup as you have and put there fan
i was repairing cables 2 times in 2weeks
Chainflex
All your cable problems will melt away
Can bus or not
Just need the right model
Igus has a lot of options
my trident reach 3000m filament used
i think same w8 i order capricorn tube
but i am not sure if inert diameter is good choice
y, but I will try it, what is standar dimension for bowden ?
id 2 od4
2id 4od
my capricorn have id2 od4 its look ok, i dont use standard trident spool holder, i have sitting eibos on top
about as stiff as good cat6 but it is almost rubber
it recovers its form
Sounds good, I’ll order some to 👍
Yeah okay I’ll look
Also where you talking about trying to get the best Bowden tube size?
I was having problems with the ercf using stand 4OD 2ID
So reading in the Voron manual for the ercf, they recommend 4mmOD 2.5mmID
Less friction
Mabey it’s worth testing
why u caring about tubing?
But yeah, the I found Capricorn has less resistance I also found
?
im in a beta for the tradrack mmu https://github.com/Annex-Engineering/TradRack
@naive swan what thread size u use for PG7?
i just grabbed the stl
ok
but i think its 12 or 12.5
I'mma redisgn my canbus mount for my Zerog and my voron
ok
I think I may make a frame similar to the way that tridents are with top mount electronics for my zreog
yep
I like Eva and will prob go cpap at some point
the down ward mount is nice if you have a door
wdym?
@naive swan u should join the betta. The mmu isn't bad for price.
bruih I've been dealing with fish too much recently
fish?
Im building a voron right now
using the ender 5 plus core xy to print the parts
still need to find away to mount the 3do cam on the dragon eva tool head
got the 3do Cam working on the steathburner
I’m sure someone already did a mount for it. Can’t remember where I seen it tho.
Which one did you try? Send pics and dimensions of the beacon
Plate is 8.1mm high ,for first measurment by ruller its little warped from front to back. mag sticker and pei/pei are 377x377.
Heater is little over plateon on every side 0,5mm,
Plate look like anodized.
it doesnt look too bad, hopefully bed mesh isnt to bad either?
not yet. i am still building
mine is not great
meybe it will warp in other side when heated 😄
Aside from it sounding like an arcade in here, it’s ready to print back ups!
seriously sounds like an arcade machine, lol
Time for sleep
Did they finish printing?
The top square looks suspicious 🤨
that was the first patch in my first layer tune, it needed to be baby stepped up since my offset was not perfect yet
nice! they look clean
will you use CW2 ? or have you considered Orbiter 2.0?
Cw2 is prone to printing issues long term so I may be looking into a more permanent solution long term
Most likely I will go metal if I do switch
Orbiter, Sherpa , bmg…. Not sure yet
My printing issue was from CW2 ,after 2 reassembly its start work again 😄
when I reach 14mm3 on its skip and doesnt extrude without help
Yep mine was a tolerance issue. Heat creep made my filament catch—-after 200 hrs of printing
I have that same issue but it was my hotend for that issue, revo Voron solved my issue
esun?
vzz-hextrudort
people have canbus mount for Stealthburner done. Also the mount for it
has anyone tested the vzz-hextrudort? does it help remove some artifacts?
I have two.
how do they compare to orbiter v2?
dont have one.
Polymaker abs
oh. oof
Abs+ is now only reserved for none heat soak parts
first print after repair 200mm/s
what is that?
i do a good abs+ blend. aka sparta 3d
ah ok
yeah for hotend duty its polymaker abs or asa for me
after i print the skirts im printing 4 Nevermore v5s
c ough ciough make maxes
gotta make use of this.....
acid washZ/.
no this is clean
rail safe stuff
nevermore max
ok
65mm fan...
nah im out
i got better projects to work on
lol HE FINALLY FOUND IT
what do you mean by this?
this > acid washZ/.
i thought you were knocking on my carbon
no the carbon is acid free
pog
tested by others
so one my frame extrusions is real fricked up ):
guess my E5+ frame will be sooner
I use EnviroSupply virgin coconut in my filters. I love it.
im not fond of the pricing, but it is the best i have found so far
i get shipping is expensive but the only way to avoid it is by buying 20lbs
Dayum. That's higher than I remember. Have you tried their site directly?
@naive swan I think I might do a doomcube inspired frame.
cause my frame a bit scuffed
@naive swan looking aweasome
done!!!!
Release day is nigh!!!!
These are in esun since heat is not a problem here
Niiiice
HYPE haha
Did you modify any of the gantry parts to allow for new bearing stack configurations? (Shim between bearings) for longer belt life or modify the x gantry for better path to Stealthburner?
What are the top 2 skirts
fan retainerws
ahh forgot about those
looks like this is as good as it is going to get
this is going to be fun.....
better not fail me... big ass printer that sometimes could
@naive swan do you use springs under your bed or solid spacers?
right now silicone bushings
i have tried solid and 6 different sets of spring- my conclusion is i need to change my z if i want to do anything better than a 0.25mm variance
These are all part of the files your working on right?
yes
thats interesting, do you mean swap out the whole z system?
do you mean swap z to hydra?
i am doing a trident version
hydra already works with this design
i did not modify the x mounts, in part because this works with the m1 and m1.1 xmount parts
what benefits does the trident z system have over the original E5P
less likely to taco, and no need to screws_tilt_calculate, similar to hydra but less moving parts since its not truely kinematic
if you have a fabreeko bed, you are set
how does it help with taco effect?
i have to do both since some people will keep the stock bed, so i just need to show it can be done
not fixed at 4 corners, only 3 point mounting
ah okay that kinda makes sense to me
im debating the fabreko bed
however not in stock, but is it really worth it?
yeah i want mains heater for sure
but can mains heater not go onto stock bed?
ahhh
its a pcb underneath the aluminum
not sure how bad that would be but i can imagine it would be good
yeah i see this, but i thought it could go over or pull the pcb off
okay ill have to do this,
@naive swan do you by any chance want to share the sizes of your panels for the main frame? I have some old panels and want to know if they would fit
Otherwise ill need to get some new ones
well most of the panels are coroplast
do you want the acrylic ones or the coroplast ones
Front side and back, both? But i dont need the sizes for the lid
Cant print abs or asa yet since i dont have an enclosure so i want to see how far i can get with the stuff i have around
Btw my leadscrew on the right side of my bed started squeeking a lot after switching to klipper any idea what it might be?
you need to square your gantry
also grease it
run z_tilt_adjust
Hmm ill try that
[z_tilt]
Use Z_TILT_ADJUST to level the bed left to right.
z_positions: Location of toolhead
z_positions:
-37, 160
376, 160
points:
33, 160
333, 160
speed: 200
horizontal_move_z: 5
retries: 5
retry_tolerance: 0.0075
you might have to tune the points
Enclosure helps with asa and abs but not entirely necessary.
@thorny vine
Thats asa and i also print abs on it.
Also doable with stock cooling?
Little round ears help on corners. Doesn’t look amazing on a smooth bed but looks great on a powdercoated one
I use the prusaslicer profile from voron @thorny vine i think it maxes at 30%part cooling starting at 5th layer.
I have it in a storage closet and i let it vent out before i go in there though
I dont have seperate Z drivers will this work?
Def print in a not ventilated room. Drafts arent your friend. Heat soak bed before starting
No wont work without seperate z drivers
But you can do it by hand with calipers.
Or at least get it closer
Added to the todo list😂
then you have to manually square it
@naive swan did you fully breakdown your 5plus when you installed the merc parts? Thinking of doing this. Have never checked frame square since initial assembly.
i did, kinda. it was fully disassembled when i got it
missing bolts and parts, the whole nine yards
@naive swan my 2.4 extrusions came in!
only issue. bought m5 screws but was gonna wiat. then thought whatever id prob nget them. cough couugh got sent M6 size for tapping
so you are plus sizing?
this is just my V2.4 r2
for my E5+ I wanna do different than the way the frame is prob gonna be tghinking
4040 I'd wanna do
@naive swan u should join vc
Anyone tried these? https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKKLeVy
u can print stuff like this
Yeah but was just wondering if anyone used them
Not here no.
Oh, I hoped those were TPU gaskets for acrylic panels. 😕
I need to design some for my build.
don't use foam tape. its not supposed to be gasket type stuff. can cause resonance issues.
the foam stuff can compress.
Nope, going all printed TPU
Still working
under extrusion is back...fml
anti backlash thiongy?
?
the flat head screw
push all the way in
that thing u might needa adjust
ok so back it out?
idk how ur supposed to adjust theres a vidoe in stealthburner voron part pins
ok let me see how this first layer turns out
i am cranking it down
[printer]
kinematics: corexy
max_velocity: 180
max_accel: 1000
max_z_velocity: 15
max_z_accel: 45
square_corner_velocity: 5.0
The two adjustments on Stealthburner are the guilder screw that allows you to tighten the filament gear. For hard filaments abs to pla its tighten all the way in then back out 1 to 2 full turns. Flexible filaments are 3-4 turns out. Theres also the flat head screw thats supposed to keep the gears from bottoming out or moving too far in. Thats adjusted after you set tension to keep it from smashing flexible filaments.
ok so i messed with it, did exactly that. the flat head is bottomed out already
as long as i am not missing lines again, i will let this one continue
did have to cancel one part
looks like my problem was my accels were too high
too high flow?
the cw2 cant keep up
i think heat creep f'ed it up
standard sizes, winsinn
as long as i can print at this speed, idgaf
ill print an asa one then crank it back up
Hmm stealthburner not keeping up on speed. Mainly heat creep is what your thinking?
i think so, it was fine for about 200 hrs and started getting progressively worse
Replaced my cable loom twice, then went canbus, changed gears, replaced belt, and a new probe method, added a revo voron
not to mention all the tuning
chamber is 47, can is at 61, beacon 90
No bad.
honestly i am concerned i am overloading the le potato
Does the beacon have its own sensor on
Screen shot your settings tab
For mcu usage etc
Hmm. Thats pretty much what my temps look like on my enclosure
What voltage fan you got on hotend?
24v
I know theres some 4010’s with different style fins rated for lower cfm
But my experience on hot ends ends at mosquito. Wanted to try a dragon or revo
Screen shot extruder section in printer.cfg
What is 0.33/4
On the system utilisation
The graph for system load
0.33/4
Nm everything looks okay
dang i think i solved it
What was it?
Lol
i drop some lubricant in, and by the next layer it start looking better
...
but that silicone oil only lasr for a little bit
F
i will drop the bearings in my ultra sonic, and add grease later
The printer barely cobbled together these skirts
Good enough since that part is decorative and the sides are not visible
Ah. I see what you mean. The back of that looks just right though.
well i spent hours on the z rods, with nothing to show for it
the issue did not go away
That quality doesn’t look like a zrod issue to me. I cant say ive had any issues on my 5+ and the rods are bent to shit lol i still get accurate cal cubes. That looks like temp/speed to me.
I still don’t understand how speeds are mentioned though like what printing at 120mm/s means. Since theres so many speed settings wall/perimeter/infil/acceleration/etc.
I think im at 80outer perimeter, 250 travel speeds.
well speed is not it, and the sad part is it went from perfect to horrible. The issue is definitely with long lines
like the extruder cant keep up sometimes
im going to get a feeler guage today to check if my x is bent
or if the bed is warped
Do you get under extruded prints when you print pla
That looks like layer adhesions issues
@naive swan do a troubleshooting post for dutch/ turtle
I think that it's prob cause it's not uniform issues
As for troubleshooting I will just ask Ellis and crew
I think bed mesh fade is the culprit
Oof
It has to be something simple surly 😂
Pro tip when using oil font spill it.
I went ahead and stopped it
Good news is everytime Diablo boots me, I have an hr to fiddle around with until I get to the front of the queue
Either nozzle temps to low or wierd z steps
Yep, great game and I got a sandwich
I would have pre purchased though if that fell through
I’m thinking z steps or a messed up xy
Any specific reason you went with a 4 piece cross bar for the sides instead of 2 big pieces ?
Tensioner look like
@shell wolf it’s a mandatory part so it falls under the V0 rule
all main parts have to be printable on v0?
Basically mandatory parts can be printed on a v0
Yes, that was my design goal
One of them at least
ahh, should be the merc rule
All main parts printable on ender build sheet 😂
Well it helps with that too
@shell wolf either way you bring up a good point and if time permits I will add a replacement for it
Optional of course
yeah, I don’t consider it an issue really — was just wondering if there was a reason 😛
Lol I guess I just want to make sure it is as accessible as possible
Had to buy extended cables too
Your case design is so good it should be the standard.
As in the stock ender5 frame. Its a conversion. Id figure its a deal with it issue lol
I'm swapping frames.
Is that the hold up on the new merc version
No
That were getting a whole new bom that includes frame
No.
Are there any other enclosures for the merc that dont add a frame outside the main frame?
I'm going to be designing my own frame/ with merc most likely. I'm gonna at least keep hydra.
I'm no sure if making the merc is my plan. I'm gonna though have a flipped X axis if it's that way. So my x joints will be bottom of extrusion. Cause space
will you make some fan duct to backpack ?
@vocal terrace swapping frames. You just buying new extrusions and rebuilding stock size frame?
No.
Designing my own setup
I want hydra all installed with minimum extrusions. I don't want to have the steppers taking up extra space which is why I'd flip that part
So more like a trident since those hve 2020 vs 2040
Not quite sure yet. I prefer the mount system of hydra so that's gonna be my bed mount.
I'm toying with swapping to that or hevort
But I may do 3030 extrusions
4040s prob are ideal
For Z if doing 2020s
Sorry almost done with the Diablo beta
I doubt it will become the standard, but I do hope people adopt some of its concepts
Then name 5 more betas
The frame sucks but it is designed to make the merc usable and give it solid look without breaking the bank