EVA 3 Mercury Mod

[velvet wing]

https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/issues

[wide turtle]

Cause I don't want to get linked to anything carto related!

[velvet wing]

lol

[wide turtle]

Ok
I was scared you opened a ticket on carto

[velvet wing]

i'll starting assigning you any carto related issues on github

[wide turtle]

No I am for real
I don't want anything to do with them at all
I won't touch them with a 10m stick

[velvet wing]

"Thanks for taking up carto issues, LastZeanon! So kind!"

Several @ pings

[wide turtle]

Please don't
I had my interactions with carto in the past and they didn't go well

[velvet wing]

open issue -> assign zeanon -> success!

[velvet wing]

i'm kidding dude 🙂

[warped snow]

You making any more changes to the cutter v2? Thinking about taking it soon and editing to hold OALF blades then reprinting my whole tool head

[warped snow]

@wide turtle he’s not kidding I saw you added for support

[wide turtle]

Huh?

[vernal finch]

I dont think so its been working fairly well
What's a OALF blade?

[warped snow]

Nice! Supposed to be really nice blades that last a long time. I picked some up and haven’t used yet.

https://olfa.com/products/olfa-kb4-f-5-chisel-art-blades-5pk

Was recommended me by the BT community

[vernal finch]

Ah okay a dollar a blade does seem pricy hope it does last long
You should be good to edit it for it

[vernal finch]

Finished up the model and about to export all of the step files

New link
https://www.printables.com/model/1141394-e34m1-filament-cutter

[vernal finch]

Left version is now in the Printables link
It's untested so if you do install it let me know how it worked out

[warped snow]

I downloaded and edited the stls probably seconds before you uploaded this haha. No difference for the cut on right version with what you just uploaded?

[warped snow]

Yeah they better haha. Will let you know

[vernal finch]

Nice, yeah no difference for the right version

[fossil brook]

Sorry if this was already brought up but any thoughts about adopting EVA3 to use Creality K2 hotend?

[hallow marsh]

only for hotend?

[velvet wing]

if you can find a hotend mount for EVA3, it should be compatible with E34M1. Printables is a good place to start.

if you do find one, lmk!

[fossil brook]

Yeah no one has designed and published one yet.

[hallow marsh]

if you find a cad of the hotend i can design it for you... its 5min job

[vagrant bison]

I'm really struggeling with printing the core front. Especially the toolbelt mounts.
Those narrow flat holes with wide bridges just don't work for me.
I don't have proper parts cooling though, because I had to go back to the OG 2018 Creality toolhead, after my last toolhead broke.

If I print them with bridging, i get droops that are impossible to flatten out by hand inside those holes. If I print them with tree supports, the trees don' reach far enough inside. If I print them with classic supports, I can't get the supports out.

Any suggestions?

My current goal is, to just print rather bad toolhead parts, clean everything by hand. Then I assemble it to immediatly reprint and reprint everything with the new toolhead, keeping the bad previous print as spare parts for future failures.

It's just the problem, that I don't get those holes properly ceaned up.

[vagrant bison]

Okay, I got it... I used the one with drooping bridges and jammed increasingly larger pieces of sandpaper in there, until I could fit a stack of sandpaper that's the same size as my toolbelt.

[velvet wing]

you should not need to print with supports at all. if you are getting drooping, slow down and add some cooling fan

[vernal finch]

Found an issue with the lever arm on the cutter, the walls on the blade holder pivot point is too thin so eventually it started to bend the lever arm and then wouldn't cut
I thickened it up some and make some more room on the lever mount
Changes are published on printable

[warped snow]

Thanks for the update. Hadn't printed yet and nice since neither of these parts I edited for the OALF blades. You think you'll ever make your own actuator stop? Thinking once I do get around to printing this new toolhead I will model one up that is more slim

[vernal finch]

I already made one but it's just an edit of my old one to make it taller so it looks stupid but it does work
It attaches directly to the X gantry peice with the same longer bolts you need for the eva3 If I remember right

[fair lantern]

E34M1-OSR. Improved airflow (and as a result higher ceiling for volumetric flow), and soon to be optimized for CNC (been lagging on that last part since I'm still learning CAM).

Officially designed around the Orbiter and its derivatives for the extruder, and Mosquito, Takoto, and Dragon UHF for hotends. It will be compatible with everything else that's interchangeable between the E34M1 and the E3, but OSR fan shrouds and hotend mounts will be limited to those three for the time being.

RTV was used to seal the fan to the hotend mount, and the intake shroud to the fan.

[vagrant bison]

Thanks for the info that supports supposedly aren't needed / not advised?

I'm printing overhangs and bridges at 1mm/s now, but still a bit drooping. As I said... My toolhead is terrible at the moment. That's why I'm printing this.

The default way they are oriented, most hotend mounts do require supports though, right? Otherwise those would be giant bridges, for example on the Dragonfly BMS mount.

[fair lantern]

Everything in the E3 ecosystem is designed and pre-oriented to be printed without supports (which is why they suffer in the airflow dept, but that's for a different time). What slicer are you using? Any chance your slicer auto-orients when importing mesh files?

[cursive obsidian]

I printed Dragonfly BMS HE part without support. But I do have well tuned machine. This is how it looks with my +1/failsafe/spare hotend.

Regardless it is not that big/long bridge area, should not sag too much. And you can easily post process it > file it to flatness.

[vagrant bison]

I'm using OrcaSlicer and I've disabled auto-orienting.

I think, it might actually be, because my parts cooling fan is trash right now and doesn't blow on the part.

The Dragonfly BMS part was actually the only one I absolutely needed supports for. That long gap at the bottom (which is at the top during print) is just too wide. But with tree supports, I didn't have any problem and it looks clean.

I just remembered I'm not using the official Dragonfly BMS part. I have a 7-fin cooler, so I've printed this one:
https://www.printables.com/model/538082-phaetus-dragonfly-7-fin-bms-for-eva-v3-72mod-heat-

So... Not official part. Sorry.

[velvet wing]

ohhh yep, that party is def not my favorite 3rd party part. if it were for a more common hotend i'd probably try and redo it.

[vagrant bison]

Yea... I originally printed your Dragonfly mount (where I also had drooping problems, maybe a bit less), but later remembered that there is a difference and I had that problem before, because for whatever reason I got the "weird" version of that hotend. It's probably also part of the reason my fan is not properly aligned right now and blowing at the hotend instead of the part.

It was the only one I could mount at the time, because decent compatibility to Ender 5 stock mount. But I guess I'm getting a new one at some point. I just don't see any benefits in other hotends for my use, so throwing out >60€, just to get a marginally better one, basically just to have a groove mount, is a bit hard to stomach.

[velvet wing]

both dragonfly mounts are actually third party. if your hotend works okay, though, that's all that matters.

if you do want an affordable new one, though, the phaetus dragon hf is very solid and reasonable priced.

[wide turtle]

Actually
I would take dragon ace over dragon HF
More meltzone in the same form factor and pricing should be about the same

[velvet wing]

oh yeah. i keep forgetting about its price point

[wide turtle]

Dragon hf is a solid and good hotend, don't get me wrong
I still have one in the trident
But it's a little dated

[vagrant bison]

I shied away from the Dragon and went Dragonfly, because I really don't care about high flow. I'm not really into speed printing. I get, that it doesn't hurt to be capable. But if I usually tune all the small prints to run 4-8h over night anyway, by loweing speed. I rarely print during the day and I'm a lot more more concerned about quality than speed. Unless I have a bigger project I don't print much. I think, I used about 300g of filament total last year.

[velvet wing]

dragon hf is not a speed-oriented hotend, really. the uhf and ace can be, though.

the big difference is the heatsink/heatbreak tech

[wide turtle]

Dragons benefit is that the heatbreak is completely non structural
(Ace is somewhat structural but less of an issue than fully structural heatbreaks as the majority of force is still applied to the standoffs and frame)
Also higher flow hotends are not only beneficial for faster printing
They also ensure that the filament is fully molten and thus help with layer adhesion

For reference
I print at 150mm/s max on the trident with a dragon hf
That's not fast

[velvet wing]

assuming you mean with a 0.4 nozzle (which I'm guessing you do), agreed

[wide turtle]

Yeah
0.4
And the 150 are only infill
Walls and stuff are at 60

[velvet wing]

i run basically the same. a little faster on walls, but that's probably to my detriment.

[wide turtle]

I want to try the 0.6 I got from dutch though for the v-chonk parts

I never tuned the trident to be fast
That's not it's purpose
It's supposed to create really high quality parts
For fast I have a merc
Though the rapido uhf is fairly easy to outrun XD

[vagrant bison]

Thanks for the helpful suggestions, by the way.

[vernal finch]

Around 50 toolchanges with the new cutter, so far so good

[velvet wing]

oooh!

[vernal finch]

Going to publish the other front options when I get home today
@velvet wing Do I need to figure out how todo a push request or are you able to add the link in the Optional/Build-Specific section? I'm not really familiar with github other than downloading stuff
If you want it in there

[velvet wing]

open an issue with the details and i'll get it added!

[true turtle]

1mm/s seems too slow and I would expect drooping at that speed.

[vagrant bison]

I honestly thought (and somewhat observed) that slower means less drooping on bridges.

What would you suggest instead?

[brazen parcel]

This is potentially a stupid question but all the heat set inserts should sit flush with the surface right? I know with front towers in the merc upgrade the heat set inserts sit a little bit below the surface

[true turtle]

Slower is good to a certain point. I would start about half your normal print speed and see how it looks. Cooling is important too for good bridges.

[azure barn]

Correct, flush with the surface. I find pushing the 3D printed part firmly against a flat object can help make it flat

[cursive obsidian]

The squished filament pushed out by pressed in insert will build up internal pressure in the part. And thus the insert will be pushed back into the path of least resistance which would be the the path you have just pressed it in. So yea I too flush the pressed heatset insert against flat surface just after (colder) surface to let it sit properly and let it also cool a bit.

[brazen parcel]

Okay cool just wanted to double check! Thanks 😊

For the top with the microswitch are we using the self tapping m2x8mm screws to fix it in place, and then having the wires soldered to the two pins coming out the slot from the top?

That's how it looks like it should be done but I just want to double check 😅

[azure barn]

Correct again

I had a lot of trouble soldering my wires onto the two pins of the micro switch. Definitely a skill error there haha

[vagrant bison]

Just out of curiosity: why does the E34M1 have additional room on the top and bottom part, compared to the original EVA 3?

[brazen parcel]

Okie thanks :3 yeah soldering can be hard to get right. I found that getting a slightly better soldering iron and also using a lot of flux made it a lot easier

Also some fun-tak putty to keep things in place

[wide turtle]

be careful with flux though, it should only be used with a fume extractor

[brazen parcel]

Oops, I did wear a respirator though

But good to know for the future!

[wide turtle]

yeah just saying
from what I know its pretty hazardous
which is why I tend to avoid it

[vagrant bison]

Someone older who has been soldering for 50+ years recommended to me, to mix a natural flux myself.
You can dissolve Rosin (German: Kolophonium) in pure alcohol. Basically it's natural hard resin, similar to amber or incense.
Sounds weird and doesn't work as good as commercial flux, but while using it, the alcohol just evaporates and the rosin burns away. Smells like incense and I've been told it's basically harmless. I doubt that though, because it's still resin vapor, that can clog up your lungs over excessive use and probably trigger various allergies. The most dangerous thing is the alcohol vapor though, making you dizzy like a few shots of vodka straight to your brain. Wouldn't drive after soldering with that.

But on the other hand it's supposedly less harmful than acid or metal based flux.

The good thing is, you can manipulate the viscosity of the flux by adding more rosin or more alcohol.
You can also buy premade rosin flux paste.

It also leaves a thin, amber like residue around the solder, protecting it from oxidation or corrosion.

Funnily, the english Wikipedia page for Flux shows that can of old German rosin flux as header image and another image of the hard version in molten form.

[brazen parcel]

Ah yes I am using rosin flux paste, is that better? I don't know what the alternative is for flux, I always thought that rosin was the main kind

It also leaves a thin, amber like residue around the solder, protecting it from oxidation or corrosion.

I think that the rosin residue it leaves is corrosive itself so you need to clean it off with alcohol right?

[eager cosmos]

How is the cutter working out?

[vernal finch]

Pretty good, haven't had any issues with the new iterations over 100 changes by this point

[eager cosmos]

Right on. I might give it a go on the left before long.

[vernal finch]

Nice, let me know how it turns out, the left side is untested but is pretty much just a mirror of the right so it should work

[brazen parcel]

Does the Annex Sherpa Mini Drive use any heatset inserts? I don't see any listed on the part list for it but noticed the assembly guide uses that drive and shows two in the top and one in the side

[azure barn]

It sure does, 3 as you noted

[brazen parcel]

Thank you 😄

[vagrant bison]

Yea, that got me confused too. But luckily I watched each of the assembly videos before proceeding.

[verbal widget]

Hi guys!
I was wondering if it is possible for me to have a klicky probe with my E34M1 (eva3 toolhead)? So yeah, is there a special airduct for it (i have the kraken right now) and where can i find these stl files for the klicky probe that is compatible with eva 3 toolhead?

[cursive obsidian]

None of those Klicky variants listed at https://jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/modules/bottom/ are usable for you?

[verbal widget]

okay in all fairness i truly didn't see that option, like totally looked over it

[velvet wing]

no worries. if humans were all-seeing we'd never have car accidents, either. 😉

[vagrant bison]

What do you usually do with leftover belt? Would you cut that off completely?

I've rolled it up, in case I might need it for modding later...

[velvet wing]

a few cm is plenty

[vagrant bison]

Thanks! I will probably cut it down after a few test prints.
The manual said to use 4m and cut them down in the middle... That's whats left over after that.

[cursive obsidian]

@velvet wing If you're interested listing it. I have created EVA 3.0 Filament sensor using ball bearing and D2HW microswitch (aka the BoxTurtle style mechanical sensor) - https://www.printables.com/model/1170113-eva-30-d2hw-filament-sensor

[velvet wing]

sweet!

i added an issue for this

[vagrant bison]

Made out of the same PETG roll.

Still have some slight bridging issues, so I'm going to use dual 5015.

[wide turtle]

Petg is sub optimal
It's quite flexible

If you can't print abs/asa
I would rather use Pla+ for the structural parts and only Pla for the ducts

[vagrant bison]

Really? I've got advised exactly the opposite.

I can't print ABS right now (working on that, enclosure+filter system is in planning)
I wanted to use PLA but different community advised to use PETG instead.

For example:
"Some have successfully built a Voron in PETG and used that to reprint in ABS but the part failure rate in that situation is very high."
https://docs.vorondesign.com/materials.html

Mostly due to temperature resistance when using it to print ABS/ASA

[wide turtle]

ah
if you want to use it to print abs/asa
yeah petg
if you stay open air
pla+

[vagrant bison]

No, I want to build an enclosure to then reprint it in ABS an a couple of weeks.

[vagrant bison]

By the way: isn't PLA+ supposed to be easier to print and softer?

[vagrant bison]

I guess this isn't meant to be mounted on a Sherpa mini, right? Especially not on the FYSETC Sherpa mini?

It's only meant for the square NEMA 14, I guess?

[vagrant bison]

I mean... If I had two 35mm or 40mm ISO7380 screw, I could replace the screws on the sherpa and screw them into the PCB holder from the back of the PCB or the front of the sherpa to then mount the PCB on the printed part using a pair of nuts.

Ah... I just saw, it's deprecated and you recommend the solutions from other creators.

And it's obviously supposed to be used with standoffs 🤦‍♂️

[azure barn]

1000%

[velvet wing]

PETG withstands higher temps than PLA

[velvet wing]

Go with PETG now. PETG-CF or GF would be even better.

you'll want to keep the enclosure below about 45C with regular PETG. crank the bed temp (to help the ABS/ASA prints) and use a vent fan if necessary (to keep the chamber temp down enough)

[vagrant bison]

Thanks for the info.

I was thinking about reprinting everything in PETG yet another time, just to make sure I have enough spare parts. (Also on the last iteration there was some warping from the bed which I had to fix using a 3D pen to get a decent seal on the fan duct...)

I guess I'll try PETG-CF for that. Never used material with additives like that.
PETG-GF sounds nasty though. That poor nozzle having tiny glass shards pumped through.

I also just found out, that there is a significant difference between PET-CF and PETG-CF. The Glycol in PETG supposedly makes it less heat resistant.

[velvet wing]

yes, that was originally done to make it more attractive for 3D printing.

newer printers can print regular PET/PET-CF

[velvet wing]

A couple new mods are pending. Once this weekend is over I will find some time to update the docs.

[regal frigate]

Are there new hotends that just got support? 😮

[velvet wing]

yes! dragon ace got added!

also the TD6S from TraingleLabs

[regal frigate]

Oooh

[eager cosmos]

Pla+ worked for a bit at 130Hz until I put it in a tent and started printing ASA 🤣

[velvet wing]

ohhh that's def stretched on you

[cursive obsidian]

To be fair those would be easily printable in ABS/ASA in the open.

[eager cosmos]

I already had them printed. I grabbed the wrong ones when I was changing stuff.

[wise karma]

@velvet wing any chance you made one of these? especially with the BD sensor Type M (control box is at the end of the long cable, so no need for a spot on that control box mounted to the toolhead)

[velvet wing]

someone did, but dang I don't recall who.

@wide turtle do you recall who mounted the bd sensor? it wasn't you, was it?

i don't think it was flow, either

[wide turtle]

I didnt

[velvet wing]

looks like Khaos, TC, and emessage had them and really didn't like them

oops, sorry that was not supposed to be a reply to you, zeanon

[wide turtle]

Dw

[velvet wing]

ha! @umbral wave did you ever finish your mount for the bd sensor?

[wide turtle]

Yeah some people had them and I have yet to see one who is happy with it
Roger sent me one with the chonk stuff and when I asked what I am supposed to do with it, he responded: dunno, just wanted to get rid of it😂

[wise karma]

@velvet wing dang I hope it'd compatible with the eva 3

[velvet wing]

tbh it looks more like folks have given up on the sensor rather than finish a mount. it doesn't seem to offer great repeatability or resistance to drift.

[wise karma]

so im actally a US Reseller for the sensor, and it has come a long way. i run one on all of my Ender3NG printers and have installed them on a few others (2 of my NGs are enclosed). i have had no issue with thermal drift and as far as repeatability it literally works every time. theres a version the type M) that is receommended for enclosed printers, as it moves the electronics out of the chamber.

[velvet wing]

oh, interesting... 🤔

[wise karma]

its really a great sensor, and the type m only adds about 2g to the toolhead

[umbral wave]

not realy the merc is no longer alive

[wise karma]

@umbral wavewhat happened

[umbral wave]

i sold it...i couldnt get the canbus running after i reinstalled everything

[fossil brook]

I just got mines from AliExpress. Will start digging around for CAD, otherwise I'll have to model it myself

[fossil brook]

Here's my rough model, still work in progress.

https://cad.onshape.com/documents/07ca0da7a5b15560732f8f28/w/a3559a579336a23732c47ffd/e/0945775b2972f5cc4f7ad9ff?renderMode=0&uiState=67b56fc1c439d754225bf9ed

I think we need to rotate the heatsink so it's left is facing out. We need the top 2x M3 come in from top and then 2x side M3 come through the right side of the hotend mount and screw into the left side of the hotend mount.

[velvet wing]

oh no! I'm so sorry!

[umbral wave]

i got frustratet and sold everything. i also moved to a new place where only 3 printer fit. and the merc was the only one who wasnt workling

[fossil brook]

@velvet wingWhat CAD do you model with? Master V2 v33.step imports into OnShape with errors.
"Master V2 v33.step was translated with errors. Parts with faults have been imported."

[velvet wing]

Fusion 360

you can also just import individual files and snap them together

[lilac mango]

hello guys, tthe v6 volcano is compatible with eva for mercury, thanks

[fossil brook]

preview on what i've come up with so far. I didn't fully model out the entire hotend assembly; just minimal viable model for creating the hotend mount.

[velvet wing]

It is not. There may be a 3rd party mod available now, but the V6 mounting method is not ideal and the V6 hotend is outdated.

[strange flicker]

am I to assume its the same case for the Revo?

[velvet wing]

the revo 6, yes, i believe so

[strange flicker]

[velvet wing]

hotends with dual mounts like the dragon aren't an issue

lmao hey kids i'm wrong

https://jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/modules/hotend/#e3d-v6-revo-v6

[strange flicker]

i should check this out, my revo 6 also has some extra holes, do i google "V6 dragon"?

[velvet wing]

umm, lemme pull up the cad

been a long time

[strange flicker]

these are the holes on mine

[velvet wing]

interesting. i did not model against the revo 6 itself...lemme see what i can find for you.

[velvet wing]

gotchu fam. https://www.printables.com/model/868723-aliexpress-revo-v6-hotend-mount-for-mercury-one-ev

[strange flicker]

damn

the aliexpress revo mount

incredible, thanks

[velvet wing]

uh oh

let's hope it's compatible. 😄

[strange flicker]

i'll probably print this and the one listed on the site at the same time

if there were step files i'd be down to redesign it with the 4x5 heatset inserts

oh wait, its a remix of e34m1

so it probably is already that way

[velvet wing]

should be, but lmk if it's not. i'm gonna end up adding that info to the docs. 😉

[strange flicker]

i'm also curious how im going to run the ptfe tubing between the revo and the extruder without that top piece

we'll see when we get there i guess, i have everything ready, just waiting on the ASA parts and some rest

[velvet wing]

the hotend mount does a good job holding the tube in place against the hotend. the filament intake for the dragon hf is very similar and has no problems.

[lilac mango]

Okay, thanks! Yes, I know it's a bit old, I just wanted to see if it was possible to reuse them. Regarding the Revo hotends available on AliExpress, do any of them work with the Evo? Thanks!

[strange flicker]

you mean eva?

[lilac mango]

yes, Be compatible with EVA, but i want to buy a hotend in ali not expensive. sorry my english is not good

[strange flicker]

i got the ali revo as well. Now, i don't think its recommended, but it looks like it'll work out. I'll have printed the eva parts in a couple of days, I'll ping you then

if you can, avoid the revo though

there are better options around ~40 eur (that's what i paid for the revo with the hardened nozzle)

[velvet wing]

https://jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/modules/hotend/

This list is slightly outdated. It lists all of the hotends that are supported by E34M1. The first section of the list are "native" hotends that are well-tested and supported. The second half of the list are other compatible hotends; these include the E3D hotends. There are some other hotends that I have not yet added to the second half.

[fossil brook]

i've used this with the aliexpress revo clone and it works ok

there are revo clones on ali that claims to be "high flow" but they're lying.

[strange flicker]

the nozzle or the hotend itself

the hotend, yea, not even the original one advertises it as high flow

the nozzle, i'm not sure. I reached out to fysect to see if their nozzle's actually similar to the e3d high flow nozzle, but i doubt it, that thing looks difficult to manufacture

[fossil brook]

this is the hotend i got: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806738064254.html

nozzle i got; the desc used to say "high flow"
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806559590980.html

[fossil brook]

But Creality K2 Plus' nozzle is cheap and pretty high flowrate hence that's my current project

it goes with a longer melt zone instead of fancy geometry

[strange flicker]

If you can test the flow rate on this, I would really appreciate it

I asked fysect about it but got no response

As for why you went for the Revo...

[fossil brook]

It's no longer installed in a printer so I can't test it.

[fossil brook]

I liked the idea of a hand removable nozzle but didn't wanna pay for genuine so i went with the OEM.

[strange flicker]

got you confused with another person, sorry!

[strange flicker]

im really curious if these do anything. Might have to bite the bullet and test once i got the numbers with the current setup

[fossil brook]

My Mercury One.1 currently uses a clone TZ 3.0 Bambu Labs hotend.

[deft monolith]

the y_offset of the beacon probe, is that a minus or a plus?

[velvet wing]

plus

[deft monolith]

thx!

[velvet wing]

https://tenor.com/view/badday-toomuch-gif-22694078

[velvet wing]

I've updated the hotend modules page with TD6S support and a third-party TZ V6 mount

Pull requests and bottom/rear tickets are next

[strange flicker]

I'm a bit lost on how to measure this

we've talked about it a few times, but has anyone printed the aliexpress v6 mount recently / recall what heat inserts they used?

ignoring the units (its 10x as large on fusion) by the mercury one standard, this should be 5mm deep right?

[velvet wing]

nope, 4mm deep works. m1/voron inserts are 5mm wide, eva3 ones are 4.6

you can get 5mm inserts to work in those smaller holes, but you will get bulging and need to "trim" that

[strange flicker]

hmm, this is ~4.25mm wide, i guess that's just material to be melted away then?

or maybe this is just for the bolt head and i'm measuring the wrong thing

[velvet wing]

that picture above is where the cooling fan inlet mounts, i believe?

[strange flicker]

i think so

+- the front plate

[velvet wing]

those holes are narrower than the insert diameter. the knurles "eat" some of that excess plastic

[strange flicker]

hmm okay its fine then

[velvet wing]

yeah. we use 4.7mm for the 5mm insert holes

[strange flicker]

will report back in 5 years when printer is operational and i can print the rest of the parts

[cursive obsidian]

Hole diameter - 4.7mm chamfered by 0.6mm at the entrance face, depth 4.1mm (ideally followed by 3.2mm diameter cca 1mm deep for bottomed out M3/solder tip).

[strange flicker]

wait, i think all the threaded inserts i have are wrong then

mine are 4mm diameter 5mm deep

https://www.amazon.nl/-/en/dp/B0D3F1L8D5?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

should I have gotten these instead? https://www.amazon.nl/-/en/Jeffdad-Inserts-Pressure-Knurled-Printing/dp/B0CYH466PM

i'll ask this in #mercury-chat instead, disregard here

[cursive obsidian]

Most designs around the DYI 3d printers (e34m1 included) are designed using these heatset inserts M3x5x4 https://cnckitchen.store/products/made-for-voron-gewindeeinsatz-threaded-insert-m3x5x4-100-stk-pcs - M3 I"D", 5mm OD, 4mm depth
So for these the dimensions the designed feature would look like this (and the innermost 3.2mm (screw) hole can be long as you like):

[cursive obsidian]

Problem with any (amazon chinessium "ressellers" especially) of those advertised heatset inserts is that they sometimes don't show actual part. Sometimes IRL those inserts could be made for injection molded insertion and not for manual insertion. They differ in those edged OD features that are usually straight or not too much detailed. Which does not offer enough grip when manually injected into plastic.
I'd recommend to buy these at any specialized 3d printing shops to be sure (depends on your geolocation).

If you really live in .eu I wholeheartly recommend's those stefan's heatset inserts above (albeit they are usually a bit more expensive than chinessium). He has shop on amazon.de too if you preffer amazon. https://www.amazon.de/-/en/KITCHEN-Original-Thread-Printing-Cadmium/dp/B0C7J2F8PQ

Some DYI 3D printer shops in eu:
https://3do.dk/en/75-heat-inserts
https://levendigs.com/collections/threaded-inserts/products/threaded-inserts-m3-voron-100pcs-cnc-kitchen
https://alchemy3d.de/products/aluminium-heatset-inserts
https://alchemy3d.de/products/brass-heatset-inserts-kopie
https://www.replimat.eu/heatset-insert-m3x5x4-100pcs/rt10056

[strange flicker]

got these. interestingly, they didn't show up in amazon.nl without explicitly searching for cnc kitchen

[cursive obsidian]

Yea the search for brand/shop name on amazon is not always giving me results I need too.

[fair lantern]

Some CFD data from Simscale comparing the upgraded Mosquito mount to the original Eva 3 one. Notice the significantly improved pressure consistency and higher air pressures across the entire cooling channel. Also note the bottleneck in the original design that leads to a massive air pressure plunge.

Whenever you get a chance, I submitted a pull request a while back but I'm not sure if I did it correctly. I was also trying to include the Takoto mount in there.

https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/pull/41

[velvet wing]

hey renn! i saw your PR and answered there just now. personal life is hectic, but i've read the PR and am perusing the STLs to get a better overview.

[fair lantern]

Totally understand! Let me know if I can make anything easier for you. Not the end of the world either way, life comes first. Appreciate all you do!

Answered!

[strange flicker]

how do you guys slice this thing (aliexpress revo mount)

[velvet wing]

like that

[strange flicker]

It'll have to print midair quite a bit

[velvet wing]

those bridges are mostly cosmetic issues

they should turn out okay, though

[strange flicker]

Hm ok

I've been printing

4/6 pieces turned out ok last night

Can't wait to be done with this

[velvet wing]

it's pretty boot-strappy until everything works

i probably reprinted my parts twice, maybe three times and reassembled until I was satisfied with what I was doing

[strange flicker]

did you print the later versions after you got the merc setup

the 480p webcam stream doesn't look promising

i might want to add a neopixel ring around the nozzle, it'd be really good for lighting, maybe for an endoscope too

[strange flicker]

holy shit the fan duct is huge

[velvet wing]

i reprinted once for better print quality, twice for better materials, and many times because i was upgrading or testing

ABS -> ASA -> CF-ABS

[strange flicker]

im doing ASA right now

I might do CF-ABS or CF-ASA way in the future when i have somewhat of an enclosure and SUAFT

i need suaft asap

[velvet wing]

asa is great. CF was because i got it and it looks amazing

[strange flicker]

i think im gonna lean into the cnc look and print everything in light silver if I end up doing nebula (since i'll have to get silver extrusions as well)

[strange flicker]

also, eva 3 is kinda huge

on the pictures it looked much smaller lol

[strange flicker]

i dont think this is gonna work

[strange flicker]

https://tenor.com/view/truck-crash-gif-10492368

i am proven incorrect

[mortal sigil]

Too bad my hotend won't fit on the Eva 3

[strange flicker]

Adxl front is a bit warped, thinking whether if I should reprint it or not

[velvet wing]

what hotend?

[mortal sigil]

Goliath

[velvet wing]

that corner tends to lift. might throw a brim on it

[velvet wing]

ahhhh yeah

beefy boi

[mortal sigil]

Yep

[velvet wing]

that and the chube are not really feasible

[wide turtle]

Everything is possible
You just have to want it😂

[lucid aurora]

@vernal finch or anyone else, Question for the filament cutter right variant, how are you homing X with a right side cutter?

Also is the add on filament sensor on the orbiter 2.0 sufficient for MMU specifically the ERCF or is the custom one needed?

[vernal finch]

I'm homing to the left, had to reprint some parts for it and take my hotend apart for it
Needs some config changes as well

I have that sensor amd it works fine, you do have to disable the auto load and runout pause tho
Also if you don't have the bowden coupling I recommend getting the orbiter v2 filament sensor, the original was friction fit and it works its way out when swapping a bunch

[lucid aurora]

Good copy on the config changes, I'm sure there will be plenty when getting all tuned. I don't really use the Orb macros other than the runout and can comment them out no problem. Hmm. I'm pretty sure mine is friction fit. I'll look around for a proper coupling if possible. Mine is the OS2.

*I see the V2 sensor now. I might as well print off the standalone sensor since I have all the parts to make it work.

[verbal flame]

what is the newest design/link for EVA 3 mod?

[velvet wing]

check pins

[verbal flame]

of course 😉

[velvet wing]

@cursive obsidian how does this look for a Carto/Beacon doc callout?

[velvet wing]

Docs updated:

• 22mm CPAP (18mm ID tube) rear inlet
• 18mm inductive probes
• Added note about Carto/Beacon docs
• Fixed Sherpa Mini bill of materials
• Dragon Ace
• ProtoXtruder 2.0
• Another TZ V6 mount
• probably something else that i forgot

[strange flicker]

Am I missing anything

[velvet wing]

https://jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/assembly/

Compare against that list

[strange flicker]

Shit, I printed right handed x axis block

[velvet wing]

are you homing to the left?

[strange flicker]

That's default for merc, right?

[velvet wing]

most home to the right. the build guide has a section near the front about where you home

[strange flicker]

Oh ok then

[cursive obsidian]

Looks good. Better than what I would come up with 😅 . One can only hope that users will actually read it...

[strange flicker]

printed the wrong x axis stop blocks

somehow got the one without cable anchor (but also printed the cable anchor?) and one with pcb limit switches

i thought pcb limit switches referred to the stock ender 5 ones, nope, had to order new ones

[velvet wing]

there are several top mods that will work with the limit switch itself

[strange flicker]

yes

the microswitch variants

[velvet wing]

yep

[strange flicker]

too late though, my ass is not going back to stock motion system now

i'll just wait a day for the switch

[strange flicker]

can we mount one of those nozzle accelerometerpcbs on the eva34m1

[velvet wing]

if there is clearance around your hotend's nozzle, yes

[strange flicker]

is there a holder for it or something?

[velvet wing]

They attach to the nozzle itself

well, heat block

[strange flicker]

ohh i see

i asked because i want to put an endoscope + led ring around the nozzle

i thought maybe i'd base it off of an existing design

might try to do something like klicky

[velvet wing]

mount it on a shroud, perhaps

[indigo hornet]

Hey Jon, rebuilding the zerog and upgraded my rapido to the uhf bottom nub. When I switched to the uhf hotend holder and uhf kraken it came out a bit short. I switched to the rapido (standard) hotend holder and with some nozzles it's just barely lower than the ducts. Maybe on purpose, but using the thread in nozzles, it still is higher than the fans. Will provide photos to maybe get to the bottom of where I went wrong

Rapido uhf holder and uhf vents.

Screw in nozzle

Standard Rapido holder, uhf vents, standard nozzle

[velvet wing]

the bottom of the kraken should be ~1mm above the nozzle height

bear in mind there is a UHF rapido moutn and a regular rapido mount, as well, so that UHF switch also requires a diff mount

https://jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/modules/hotend/#rapido-uhf

[indigo hornet]

I used uhf mount originally and found it too short is what I was trying to show in the top photos. . The regular has a lil more of a shelf to drop it low enough with a standard nozzle to be roughly where you say it would be.

They may be switched (names)

[velvet wing]

hrm, okay. i'll keep an eye out if anyone else reports that. thanks.

Courtesy of @fair lantern !
CFD optimized Mosquito mount: https://jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/modules/hotend/#slice-mosquito (This is a big improvement over the stock mount)
Peopoly Lancer mount: https://jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/modules/drive/#peopoly-lancer

[fair lantern]

This is exciting stuff! Thank you for taking the time to integrate the updates!

[velvet wing]

thanks for contributing them 😉

[fair lantern]

Putting the Takoto through its paces now. Dialed in the config, using a 1.4mm nozzle with 1.5mm layer lines. Might bump them to 1.7.

Weird having two working printers, still pending finalizing wiring on the third with the dragon.

[fair lantern]

https://github.com/rennwaffen/OSR/blob/main/3D Printers/OSR Formula Mk.I/README.md

Updating as I go

Adding a full BOM

[strange flicker]

do we have a mount for the cartographer

[velvet wing]

yep, use the beacon model D mount

[strange flicker]

alright thanks

[vital cairn]

Hello, did you happen to make a Kraken UHF version? I havent been able to find any horns that work with the PBC version of the Klicky

[fossil brook]

That OnShape link goes to the model. I've printed it but haven't tested.

[vital cairn]

Gotcha, thank you for your quick reply!

[fossil brook]

Actually it tested fine. UHF version is untested

[foggy oyster]

@vernal finch For your filament cutter mod on the E34M1: do I need a PTFE tube between the extruder and hotend? If yes, how do I install it so it stays in place? Thanks a lot in advance for your help 😄

[vernal finch]

So the bowden tube that's inserted into the hotend and stops at the cutter you can take an exact knife and kinda spin it in there to create a chamfer to where it'll guide the filament into the hotend
I didn't install mine with one from the extruder to the cutter cause I'm using a post extruder sensor for better auto loading

Like this

[foggy oyster]

@vernal finch thank you 😄 Any chance you would tell me what extruder sensor you are using ?

[vernal finch]

Found it
https://www.printables.com/model/442650-eva-3-toolhead-filament-sensor-mechanical-and-reli

[foggy oyster]

Thank you 😄

[cursive obsidian]

I rather use drill bit (around 6mm diameter is good) and chamfer it by gently pushing its tip onto the tube while carefully spinning. You will get smooth and axially aligned chamfer. Excacto knife tends to create splinters and rougher uneven surface.

[vernal finch]

That's probably a better idea, the exact-o just makes a longer transition than the 45° of a drill bit, I doubt it really matters though

[neon adder]

As I understand it, can I use the Kraken Horns version “Beacon” with a Cartographer V3 in the low version?

[velvet wing]

yep yep

[neon adder]

Thanks for the quick reply and your support.

[trail coral]

@velvet wing Is there any chance a mount for the Biqu Nebula extruder is in the works? https://bttwiki.com/Nebula.html

[velvet wing]

Not that I am aware of. If one shows up, it'll probably be on printables first.

[trail coral]

Would it be the same as the EVA 3 mount, or is the E34M1 different?

[velvet wing]

EVA 3 mounts are definitely compatible. if you find one, it should work

[trail coral]

There are "official" mounts, but they don't look like yours. Would you mind taking a look and give me your opinion? https://github.com/bigtreetech/Nebula/tree/master/3D Model/EVA3

[velvet wing]

this says it's for eva3, but the cad contains a VCore 3 toolhead

the hole spacing on VCore doesn't match EVA 3, either 😕

[trail coral]

Well that explains why it looks so different

[velvet wing]

yeah it's a pretty weird mount design. there's some design motivation at work that I don't see

why are these two pieces? they could be one and the mount would be much lighter. mysteries.

[trail coral]

I threw it up in CAD with your LGX Lite mount. It uses the same bolt pattern but I had remove the rear motor support because it interferes with the motor screw mounts.

[velvet wing]

Ohhhh I thought that was a familiar bolt pattern. Lmk how it works out and if you publish/wanna publish it.

[trail coral]

I should have the extruder next week and I will give it a go.

[trail coral]

@velvet wing Is there a trick to the LGX Lite mount to get all three scews into the carriage mount? It looks like I would need to remove the motor housing and then mount it to the carriage.

[trail coral]

Fits nicely on the mount.

[velvet wing]

bottom-mount extruders are unfortunately like that, where you have to attach the extruder to the mount, then the mount to the toolhead 😦

[trail coral]

Is the BTT Magneto Cutter compatible with the E34M1?

[trail coral]

If not, what is a good cutter that works with the LGX Lite extruder?

[velvet wing]

I doubt it

[velvet wing]

the cutters i've seen are shims between extruder and hotend, so I don't think choice of extruder is an issue

there is one that uses a modified Front module: https://www.printables.com/model/1141394-e34m1-filament-cutter

at least one other is still being worked on in #1007998760967737364, but I don't know status

[rare estuary]

Did you ever do this mod?

[fossil brook]

Not the most reliable right now

[timber halo]

Is there any mod to add filament autoload (using a sensor) ?

[velvet wing]

https://jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/modules/other/#filament-sensors I think this is what you're looking for

[timber halo]

Thanks a lot

[night imp]

Life got in the way of so many things. Finally got time to start with the EVA3 Mercury mod, Pretty hyped!

[orchid merlin]

Working on getting this installed in my Merc, but I'm a little confused on how to attach the belts if anyone had pictures of how they did it. The cad assembly seems to imply that the belt grabber pushes into the flat side of the belt instead of the toothed one, unless I'm misunderstanding something, and that doesn't feel correct to me.

[velvet wing]

nope, that's correct

[proven python]

Yeah that had me confused at first too, but it kind of makes sense

[orchid merlin]

I cut my belts a bit short when doing the Eva 2 install, so now I don't have enough length to install the Eva 3

Yeah, 1 indeed

[strange flicker]

can I put threaded inserts to both of these sets of holes, or do i need to see which one i need on the toolhead and only put the inserts there? (in case the extra two inserts interferes with the beacon/cartographer or not)

[velvet wing]

possibly, but better to put the right one in for your probe

[velvet wing]

i think the rearmost ones interfere with your probe if you are using the front inserts

[strange flicker]

how do i figure out which ones i need to populate

[velvet wing]

https://jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/modules/bottom/#__tabbed_1_2
Forward mount is RevB, rear is Rev H

i think carto is revb compat

[strange flicker]

ok i'll check which revision the carto follows

[wise karma]

@velvet wingi feel like ive seen this before, but do you have a canbus pcb mount for the E34M1 that is vertical with the orbiter 2?

[dusk pelican]

Looks great! I use the cover that hides everything on my eva3

[wise karma]

thats my plan, but i need a mount thats vertical not offset to the side

i swear i saw one before

[dusk pelican]

Hold on I'll look for a photo, I have a YouTube video that shows it good & it's only a short

[wise karma]

do you by any chance have the file?

i think i found one

https://www.printables.com/model/1357499-e34m1-orbiter25-pcb-mount/files

[dusk pelican]

https://youtu.be/HxPIKCrQlyU?si=ok2n16naqAkr8zG4

but of course I have the file just not the punisher one, that was just something I did in orca

[wise karma]

looks awesome man!

[dusk pelican]

you need the file?

[wise karma]

im gonna try the printables mount first

thanks though

[velvet wing]

oooh i totally forgot someone made that

[velvet wing]

note that most stepper-mounted PCB mounts will be compatible, since they don't really bump into the toolhead

e.g. turtlecrawler has some you can find on here

[wise karma]

yea i just wanted to be able to use the cover

😉

[strange flicker]

is there a step file for the whole assembly we can use?

[velvet wing]

it's huge and rapidly gets out of date, but I do export them from time to time

Check here: https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/tree/main/CAD

there's a master file

[dusk pelican]

@velvet wing hey buddy, you feel like making a mod for the EDDY for the NF Crazy Volcano, I have a perfect idea for the mod, you already have the airduct for it, just think that the mount version "abl_eddy_uhf.stl" could use a little tweak?!?

I use this on the Mosquito (or the clone NF Crazy) copper block not aluminum of course!

"stock_bottom_uhf.stl" this works perfect I think for air duct

[velvet wing]

https://www.printables.com/model/1244447-eddy-coil-eva-e34m1-dragon-uhf-mount

It's not a duct mount, but this should work

[dusk pelican]

I'll give it a try the UHF I had in the abl stl's works but I think it's just a little high, and the one you just forwarded to me looks like it add's another 1mm to it but I was thinking of slotting the eddy holes to help with multiple different hotends that are out, if I come up with a strong design ill link it to you from my GitHub

[velvet wing]

sweet!

[dusk pelican]

using a ruby tip volcano and it works very well on your E34M1

reading the new setup for eddy-ng software, it would seem that having the eddy only 1.2mm higher than the tip would give you the required distance

There will be nozzle-to-bed contact during step 2. The maximum limit of this contact is configurable; by default, it is at most z=-0.250 (relative to the homing zero position). This is not any worse than homing and then and stepping Z down one notch too far. Successful taps will stop as soon as tap is detected and will usually not go below -0.100 or so, often much closer to the true tap position.

https://github.com/vvuk/eddy-ng/wiki

not really 100% designed for the merc's but it works incredibly well

I'm done bothering you, have a wonderful evening lol

[velvet wing]

you too dude

[dusk pelican]

https://www.printables.com/model/1419921-e34m1_volcano_trihorn_insert

Couldn't find one so

[velvet wing]

nice!

i'll look more closely tmrw

[dusk pelican]

• how did I do, I mean I know it works really good, much better than the twin duct I was using, that 3rd nozzle, just makes it cool the part better at higher speeds!
  • So I do 99% of my edits in Orca Slicer but things like this part get broken vertices, and thats were I would like to learn how to repair an STL file, but as of now I resort to online free STL repair tools lol.
  • But I am still a child (at 54 yrs old) on ANY cad type software, even ones that say they are super simple I just can't figure them out.

[velvet wing]

ah, I meant to ask, is the modification to raise or lower where the duct blows?

or simply an adaptation of the trihorn?

[dusk pelican]

its a mod of the EVA 3 tri-horn (or uhf) with the bottom mount increased in size which I am sure you know that the E34M1 mount is 8mm bigger than stock EVA 3, hope I said that right, kinda sleepy

but it works perfect with uhf mounts for bed sensors like microprobe v2, bltouch, & crtouch, and the eddy

I have a few other pictures and took a YouTube 10 sec video

[velvet wing]

Did you make other changes? That sounds like the UHF trihorns: https://jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/modules/bottom/#trihorns

[dusk pelican]

thats the thing, you don't have UHF trihorns, at least I have not seen them, you have dual horn UHF, unless I missed them?

this is all I see

big difference between the one I made and that one which I was using on the stock copper block for NF Crazy (or slice mosquito)

This one is like the one I just made, worked really good but the tri-horn works better on support interface and bridges

[velvet wing]

ohhhhh man it''s been forever, okay

well that's cool

[dusk pelican]

your fine dude, I was just trying to help

[velvet wing]

well, dang, i'll add it to the docs, then 🙂

[dusk pelican]

sure yours to do with what you want to lol, you have been like a god to EVA 3 mods lol

plus your sight is amazing from beginner to advanced users

[velvet wing]

I appreciate it!

[dusk pelican]

right back at you

[dusk pelican]

questions for @velvet wing please if you have time?

I switched to the Single Papst RLF35-8 and also I wanted to know if the mosquito heatbreak fan was designed to pull rather than push?

using this stl for mosquito, I am not sure if it was yours or not lol I have so many files mixed together now I am lost on whats what lol

[velvet wing]

it should be push. that's @fair lantern 's work, so they can correct if I'm wrong. 🙂

[dusk pelican]

seems the stl I am using it really works much better as pull, doesn't matter to be realistic whatever works works right lol, just wanted to know if I was right or wrong was all

[keen iron]

I've remixed this mount for a bit more vertical adjustability: https://www.printables.com/model/1438076-btt-eddy-mount-for-e34m1-uhf-hotends 🙂

[haughty fox]

Hi guys!

I made a small modification to the Kraken UHF beacon

I was worried that with heat and vibrations the mounts could flex or crack off

it only weights half a gram more than the original, is there a place I could list it?

[velvet wing]

Printables is your best bet. Remix this link: https://www.printables.com/model/386043-e34m1-eva-3-for-mercury-one1

[haughty fox]

Alright no problem :) I just thought it would be a worth while change all things considered

[velvet wing]

lmk when it's posted and i'll add it to the E34M1 collection

makes it easier for people to search for mods

[haughty fox]

Sweet I'll get on it tomorrow, 1:30am here

[rain swift]

is it possible to use 9mm belt, v6 style hotend (trianglelab chc volcano) on the eva3 mod? cause eva3 doesnt support v6 on its webpage

[velvet wing]

yes, and there are third party V6 mounts for EVA and E34M1

[haughty fox]

https://www.printables.com/model/1455215-front-basic-9mm-belt-support

Got it fit up nicely, just made some changes and redid the belt grabbers

I hope people find use in it :)

[velvet wing]

yow 9mm belts look good

[haughty fox]

Doesn't it!

With the all metal double shear mod, i got it tensioned at 200hz right now @150mm

feels very tight

[autumn trench]

poof

Oh right there aren't 9mm original printed joints. 🤣

[velvet wing]

POOF

[haughty fox]

I still saw your notification 😉

[strange flicker]

How much lower do the HF ducts sit?

[velvet wing]

like 7-8mm, roughly.

[strange flicker]

ah damn

[velvet wing]

the hotend mounts handle the exact offset

[strange flicker]

i might actually have to make a custom duct

[velvet wing]

what hotend?

[strange flicker]

dragon ace volcano without MZE

i was hoping i can add the mze and the HF and things would sit better

[velvet wing]

you'd need a custom hotend mount instead

[strange flicker]

but it'll make the situation worse i think, mze is definitely bigger than 8mm

[velvet wing]

yes, def

[strange flicker]

that's a good option too

[velvet wing]

mze is only needed in ultra high flow situations

[strange flicker]

but i'll probably do hf anyway, better to count in the mze

[velvet wing]

otherwise the volcano block is more than enough

[strange flicker]

i know this, but does it come with any downsides? might as well just design it in advance right?

[velvet wing]

tbh, not certain, have never used an MZE

[indigo hornet]

now that we have 9mm support, should i look into a way to cut filament on our toohead? has anyone tried mounting the "cross bow" to it?

[mortal sigil]

I think someone already made a cutter for the eva 3

[indigo hornet]

crossbox is actually pretty good quality, might have to edit the front shroud to be shorter (losing the z symbol) but might be the easiest way of adding the capability

[mental kiln]

https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1309184792083955742 I'm trying to get this togheter with E34M1. Plan is to put a CAN board and get everything a little better tha first build this time. Also want a runout sensor, and hope it all can be used, or if it will be problems with all this stuff. Any suggestions, pictures and input is appreciated

[strange flicker]

i gotta design a new mount for my dragon ace volcano, as is the ducts are pointing too high up. Is there a measurement i should follow to move the hotend up/down properly so that the airflow from the ducts points towards the end of the nozzle?

[velvet wing]

yeah one sec

Here is your point of reference. Nozzle tip should be 81.5mm below the highlighted plane

[dusk pelican]

https://www.printables.com/model/1419921-zerog_e34m1_volcano_tri-horn_insert

This might work, I believe they are about the same

[velvet wing]

is that at a nonstandard height? the issue with the volcano ace is the MZE adding like 7-8mm of length

[dusk pelican]

Yes it's non standard, I have the nf-crazy volcano and nothing truly worked

[velvet wing]

huh, interesting

[dusk pelican]

I am pretty sure I uploaded real pictures of it , been a while now

Can't all be perfect geniuses like jonspaceharper lol

[velvet wing]

i'm far off being a genius or perfect, lol, but thanks

[dusk pelican]

Dude trust me you are well loved in 3D printing world, you are very attentive and on top of your designs, most just design something and act like its good you at least keep adding and improving

[autumn trench]

@velvet wing after installing the EVA2.4 on my first Merc conversion and switching over to the VZG CNC and modified Xol printheads on other Mercs, I never thought I'd try the E34M1 but here we are... it was the only toolhead that fit the criteria I needed for my Thing 3 rebuild. Behold its majesty!

[velvet wing]

that is a very nice looking build!

[autumn trench]

Thanks! I'm hoping the compact nature of the E34M1, sensorless homing, and custom length gantry rails gives me the full travel length of my 410mm bed.

[vagrant bison]

I'm trying to mount a Cartographer v4. I chose it because of CAN support (and a bit because of the price), I've already regretted that, when I noticed, the firmware isn't open source compared to the Beacon. So please don't blame that choice, I'm already blaming myself.

Anyway: The dimensions should be identical to to the low profile Beacon RevH.

When I mount the Kraken Beacon horns to the rear insert holes, the connector of the low profile connector hits against the rear inlet.

Is it supposed to be mounted upside down?

Or is it supposed to use some kind of spacers?

I'm quite sure it's not related to Cartographer, because the Beacon RevH has basically the same dimensions and uses the same connector.

Oh...

I've just seen that the Dual 5015 Rear Inlet (Owl's Eyes) has a Beacon variant

My mistake

[cursive obsidian]

Yea basically every rear required rework to fit the Beacon(Cartographer) connector. OtOH the probe is mounted in quite compact way. Blame me for execution #1041406799342997544 message and @velvet wing for inspiration.

[keen iron]

I’ve done a few microvariants of the kraken horns to deal with length variations of V6 blocks, heatbreaks and especially for the extra cursed hardened cht nozzle + 1.5 v6 adapters + bimetallic heatbreak.
That horror had to be hot tightened at 300 degrees C for each of the components to avoid itself unscrewing over time while printing and when i was done with it, the uhf kraken was mostly blowing over the silicone sock area instead of the bottom.
Blender and proportional edit with some calipers to tweak the position and size of the nozzles to blow just towards the tip of the nozzle did wonders and i still love the design so much.

[strange flicker]

lol just saw this message now, sorry. is this for the HF ducts or the regular?

[strange flicker]

hmm, maybe not?

[strange flicker]

though this assumes the nozzle sits dead center on where the paths cross. if its supposed to blow more on the bed than the nozzle by design then this picture doesn't mean much

[velvet wing]

IIRC that's a UHF duct I pictured. Drop vertically from the PTFE tube entrance point for X,Y coordinates

[strange flicker]

Is there a "template" hotend mount (that one can work off of)? Finally got the dragon ace volcano step file from triangle3d, i can design a mount for the MZE now

[velvet wing]

all of the hotends have .step files: https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/tree/main/CAD/hotend
I'd start with the Dragon mount, since they are near identical. Also might look at the Rapido mount.

[mortal sigil]

ey question do we have a filament cutter option for this toolhead

[velvet wing]

A couple folks were working on one, I don't know that one was released.

[autumn trench]

I've printed this one before for a friend but, sadly, there is no 9mm option which is what I would want/need.

[spring osprey]

I'm trying to build a E34M1 for a new build, I was gonna use a BTT EBB42 board for my tool head and I saw there is a mount for the board, but I'm not seeing how that mount fits to the rest of the toolhead?

[velvet wing]

usually attaches to the back of the extruder stepper

either with standoffs (NEMA14 stepper) or screws into the back of the stepper (NEMA17)

[spring osprey]

Sry to keep asking stupid questions, Does the EBB42 board only work with Nema 17 motors? I've got a Sherpa Mini but it doesn't seem to line up with the screws for the NEma 14

[autumn trench]

The EBB36/42 boards are designed for their respective motor sizes as far as mounting to the motor goes. Nema14 pancake motors = 36mm diameter / Nema17 stepper motors = 42mm²

[velvet wing]

tilt the EBB42 45 degrees to get it mounted on a NEMA14 or use a mount designed for both. there are a few of those mounts around, too. Check printables.com.

[spring osprey]

yeah that actually lead me to my next question

are EVA 3.0 parts compatible with E34M1? Would I be able to use this part ?

https://www.printables.com/model/409861-btt-ebb42-mount-eva-3x-orbiter-2x-lgx-lite-sherpa-/files

[velvet wing]

yes that should work fine

[spring osprey]

w00t

Thank you so much

again sry for all the stupid question

[velvet wing]

some are, mostly hotends and extruder mounts. the EBB42 mounts are more independent of the toolhead, unless clearances issues how up.

no worries

[crude jolt]

Some nema 14 extruders have the motor bolts tilted and some are straight, that threw me off at first when trying to fit my EBB42 😅

What extruder is on yours @spring osprey?

[spring osprey]

Sherpa Mini

picked up a CNC'd version on FB for $40

[crude jolt]

Aha. Not very different from my ProtoXtruder then.

[spring osprey]

Right now i"m trying to decide If I want to modify the E34 toolboard mount to fit the Sherpa properly squared up or just use the one I found on printables

I mounted it cocked at a 45 degree angle and my OCD got pissed

Or do I bite the bullet and just get a new EBB366 V2

[crude jolt]

I've got this one on mine. Just cut that "leg" thing off
https://www.printables.com/model/1572755-btt-ebb42-gen2-ebb-usb-adapter-interface-mounts-fo

[spring osprey]

I looked at that one, I've got the remixed version on right now, but its just soooooo chonky compared to the E34

[crude jolt]

Oh, your bolts are horizontal. Then the one I've got won't work.

And yes, that's super chunky. I made one where I cut away half of the top part to slim it down but didn't end up using it as I realised the bolts were angled different

[spring osprey]

I'm assuming the Eva 3 shrouds are meant to be used with E34M1, how do they attach? Magnets on the front?

[indigo hornet]

Through fan holes, screw anchors to hot end shroud

[spring osprey]

really they are covered over?

I think I like my magnet idea better

[velvet wing]

yeah, it's not ideal. most users do without one, that I have seen.

[spring osprey]

Yeah I ended up just putting magnets in the screw holes and it clicks onto the fan screws.

[mortal sigil]

someone should make a 9mm version

[mossy mango]

slimohan did that already https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1292801318326501399

[mortal sigil]

true but isnt the one with cutter

[mossy mango]

Oh that’s right. I forgot you have a mmu

[mortal sigil]

but got the 6mm version ready

[indigo hornet]

You could use the crossbow with the 9mm

[pulsar peak]

where can I find the cad file of the ducts? I need to mod them for my mellow heatcore

[velvet wing]

https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/tree/main/CAD/bottom